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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historicai  IViicroreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notaa/Notas  tachniquaa  at  bibliographiquaa 


Th«  c 
toth« 


The  Instituta  has  attamptad  to  obtain  tha  baat 
original  sopy  availabia  for  filming.  Faaturaa  of  thia 
copy  which  may  ba  bibliographically  uniqua. 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imagaa  In  tha 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  changa 
tha  uauai  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


□    Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I — I    Covers  damaged/ 


D 


D 
D 

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D 
D 

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Couverture  endommagie 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur^  et/ou  pelliculAe 


|~n    Cover  title  missing/ 


n 


La  titre  de  couverture  manque 


Coloured  mapa/ 

Cartes  gAographiques  9n  couleur 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noirel 


Coloured  plates  and/or  illuatrations/ 
Planchea  et/ou  iiluatrationa  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli4  avec  d'autrea  documents 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serree  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distorsion  l«  long  d«  la  marge  IntArieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certainea  pagea  blanchaa  ajouties 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dana  la  texte. 
mais,  lorsque  cela  Atait  possible,  ces  pagea  n'ont 
paa  iti  filmtes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentairas  suppl^mentaires; 


L'Institut  a  microfilm*  la  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  4ti  poasibla  de  se  procurer.  Las  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-itre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mithoda  normaia  de  filmage 
sont  indiquAs  ci-dessous. 


r~~~|   Coloured  pagea/ 


D 


Pagea  da  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagies 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pagea  rastaurias  et/ou  peiliculAes 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxet 
Pages  dicoiories,  tachaties  ou  piqu^es 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ditachies 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Qualiti  inigale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  matarii 
Comprend  du  material  suppKmentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Mition  disponible 


r-yt  Pages  damaged/ 

r~~\  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

r~l\  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I      I  Pages  detached/ 

r~y|  Showthrough/ 

r~~]  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

pn  Includes  supplementary  material/ 

r~n  Only  edition  available/ 


The  if 
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sion, 
other 
first  I 
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entire 
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requii 
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Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  peges  totalement  ou  partiellemant 
obscurcies  par  un  fauillet  d'arrata.  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  M  filmtes  i  nouvaau  de  facon  i 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ca  document  est  film*  au  taux  de  rMuction  indiqui  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

7 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


Th«  copy  filmad  h«r«  hat  b—n  r«produe«d  thanks 
to  th«  g«n«rotity  of: 

University  of  AllMrta 
Edmonton 

Tho  imagM  appaaring  hara  ara  tha  baat  quality 
posaibia  eonaidaring  tha  condition  and  lagibiiity 
of  tha  originai  copy  an<t  in  icaaping  with  tha 
fiiming  contract  apacif ieationa. 


Originai  copiaa  in  printad  papar  covara  ara  filmad 
baginning  with  tha  front  covar  and  anding  on 
tha  laat  paga  with  a  printad  or  illuatratad  impraa- 
sion,  or  tha  bacic  covar  whan  appropriata.  All 
othar  originai  copiaa  ara  filmad  baginning  on  tha 
first  paga  with  a  printad  or  illuatratad  impraa* 
sion.  and  anding  on  tha  laat  paga  with  a  printad 
or  illuatratad  impraaaion. 


L'axampiaira  fiimi  fut  raproduit  grica  i  la 
gAnAroaitA  da: 

University  of  Aibarta 
Edmonton 

Las  imagas  suivantas  ont  M«  raproduitas  avac  la 
plus  grand  soin,  compta  tanu  da  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattat*  da  l'axampiaira  film*,  at  mn 
conformity  avac  las  conditions  du  contrat  da 
fllmaga. 

Laa  axampiairaa  originaux  dont  la  couvartura  mn 
paplar  aat  imprimAa  sont  filmto  wx  commandant 
par  la  pramiar  plat  at  an  tarminant  soit  par  la 
darnlAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  amprainta 
d'impraaaion  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  la  sacond 
plat,  salon  la  caa.  Toua  las  autraa  axampiairaa 
originaux  sont  fllmAs  an  commandant  par  la 
pramlAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  amprainta 
d'impraaaion  ou  d'illustration  at  an  tarminant  par 
la  darnlAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  talla 
amprainta. 


Tha  laat  raeordad  f rama  on  aach  mierofieha 
shall  contain  tha  symbol  "-^  (moaning  "CON- 
TINUED ").  or  tha  symbol  Y  (moaning  "END"), 
whichavar  appliaa. 


Un  daa  symbolaa  suivanta  apparattra  sur  la 
darniira  imaga  da  chaqua  mierofieha.  salon  la 
cas:  la  symbols  —»>  signifia  "A  SUIVRE",  la 
symbols  ▼  signifia  "FIN". 


Mapa.  plataa,  charta.  ate.  may  ba  filmad  at 
diffarant  raduction  ratioa.  Thoaa  too  larga  to  ba 
antiraiy  includad  in  ona  axpoaura  ara  filmad 
baginning  in  tha  uppar  laft  hand  comar.  laft  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  aa  many  framaa  aa 
raquirad.  Tha  following  diagrama  illuatrata  tho 
mathod: 


Las  cartaa.  planchas.  tablaaux.  ate.  pauvant  Atra 
filmia  i  das  taux  da  rMuction  diffirants. 
Lorsqua  la  documant  aat  trop  grand  pour  Atra 
raproduit  an  un  saui  clichi.  il  aat  film*  A  partir 
da  I'angia  supAriaur  gaucha.  da  gaucha  A  droita. 
at  da  haut  an  baa,  an  pranant  la  nombra 
d'imagaa  nAcaaaaira.  Laa  diagrammaa  suivanta 
iilustrant  la  mAthoda. 


1  2  3 


1 

2 

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5 

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^ 


THE  WORKS 


OP 


WASHOGTOI  lEVING. 


NEW  EDITION,  REVISED. 


I 
1 

1 


VOL.  X. 

BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


NEW- YORK : 

GEORGE   P.    PUTNAM 

1849. 


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#•-.*'■  ■■''('*"•<■'■ 


THE 


ADVENTURES 


CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE,  U.  S.  A.. 


ra  THE 


'*<«', 


ROCKY  MOUNTAINS  AND  THE  FAR  WEST. 


'X 


'% 


DIGESTED   FROM   HIS   JOURNAL    AND   ILLUSTRATED 
FROM    VARIOUS   OTHER    SOURCES. 


BY 


WASHINGTON  IRVINa 


1 


AUTHOR'S    REVISED    EDITION. 


COMPLETE   IN   ONE   VOLUME. 


I* 


NEW- YORK : 
GEORGE  P.  PUTNAM,  155  BROADWAY, 

And    142    Strand,    London. 

1849. 


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Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1849,  by 

Washington  Irving, 

in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  for  the  Southern  District 

of  New- York. 


+r 


-«>^ 


John   F.  Trow, 

Printer   and   Stereotyptr, 

49  Ann-ftreet,  N.  Y. 


%# 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

.  *  -  ■ 

State  of  the  fur  trade  of  the  Rocky  Mountains — American  enterprises^ 
General  Ashley  and  his  associates — Sublette,  a  famous  leader — Yearly 
rendezvous  among  the  mountains — Stratagems  and  dangers  of  the 
trade — Bands  of  troil^ers— Indian  banditti — Crows  and  Blackfeet— 
Mountaineers — Traders  of  the  Far  West — Character  and  habits  of  the 
trapper,  ........ 


PAOI 


19 


CHAPTER  n. 

Departure  from  Fort  Osage — Modes  of  transportation — Pack-horses- 
Wagons — Walker  and  Cert6 — their  characters — Buoyant  feelings  on 
launching  upon  the  Proiries — Wild  equipments  of  the  trappers — their 
gambols  and  antics — Difference  of  character  between  the  American 
and  French  trappers — Agency  of  the  Kansas — General  Clarke — White 
Plume,  the  Kansas  chief — Night  scene  in  a  trader's  camp — Colloquy 
between  White  Plume  and  the  captain — Bee-hunters — their  expedi- 
tions— their  feuds  with  the  Indians — Bargaining  talent  of  White  Plume, 


29 


CHAPTER  III. . 

Wide  prairies — Vegetable  productions — Tabular  hills — Slabs  of  sandstone 
—Nebraska,  or  Platte  River— Scanty  fare — Buffalo  skulls— Wagons 

1 


92.5" 


2201553 


CONTENTS. 


rkot 


turned  into  boats — Herds  of  bufliilo — Cliffy  resembling  eastlea — The 
Chimney — Scott's  Bluffs — Story  connected  with  them — The  bighorn 
or  ahsahta — its  nature  and  habits — Difference  between  that  and  the 
"  woolly  sheep,"  or  gout  of  the  mountains,  .  .  .39 


CHAPTER  IV. 

An  alarm — Crow  Indians — their  appearance — »node  of  approach — their 
vengeful  errand — their  curiosity — Hostility  between  the  Crows  and 
Blackfeet — Loving  conduct  of  the  Crows — Laramie's  Fork — First  na- 
vigation of  the  Nebraska — Great  elevation  of  the  country — Rarety  of 
the  atmosphere — its  effect  on  the  woodwork  of  the  wagons — Black 
hills — their  wild  and  broken  scenery — Indian  dogs — Crow  trophies — 
Sterile  and  dreary  country — Banks  of  the  Sweet  Water — ^Buffalo  hunt- 
ing— Adventure  of  Tom  Cain,  the  Irish  cook. 


47 


CHAPTER  V. 

Magnificent  scenery — Wind  River  Mountains — Treasury  of  waters — A 
stray  horse — An  Indian  trail — Trout  streams — The  Great  Green  Ri- 
ver valley — An  alarm — A  band  of  trappers — Fontenelle,  his  informa- 
tion—  Sufferings  of  thirst  —  Encampment  on  the  Seeds-ke-deo — 
Strategy  of  rival  traders— Fortification  of  the  camp — The  Blackfeet — 
banditti  of  the  mountains — their  character  and  habits, 


58 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Sublette  and  his  band — Robert  Campbell — Mr.  Wyeth  and  a  band  of 
"  down-easters" — Yankee  enterprise — Fitzpatrick — his  adventure  with 
the  Blackfeet — A  rendezvous  of  mountaineers — The  battle  of  Pierre's 

':^  Hole — ^An  Indian  ambuscade — Sublette's  return,        .  .  .68 


CHAPTER  VH. 

Retreat  of  the  Blackfeet — Fontenelle's  camp  in  danger — Captain  Bonne- 
Tille  «nd  the  Blackfeet — Free  trappers— their  character,  habits,  dreaa. 


CONTENTS. 


Ill 


TkO* 


^The 

lighom 
nd  the 


39 


FAOE 


equipments,  lutrscs — Game  fellows  of  the  mountains — their  visit  to 
the  camp — Good  fellowship  and  good  cheer — A  carouse — A  swagger, 
a  brawl,  and  a  reconciliation,  .  .  .  .  .63 


— their 
ws  and 
irst  na- 
irety  of 
-Black 
phies — 
[o  hunt- 


47 


ters — A 
een  Ri- 
nforma- 
le-deo — 
kfeet— 


58 


)and  of 
ire  with 
IPierre's 


68 


iBonne- 
3,  dresa. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Plans  for  the  winter — Salmon  River — Abundance  of  salmon  west  of  the 
mountains — New  arrangements — Caches — Gerry's  detachment — Move- 
ments in  Fontenelle's  camp — Departure  of  the  Blackfeet — their  for- 
tunes— Wind  Mountain  streams — Buckeye,  the  Delaware  hunter,  and 
the  grizzly  bear — Bones  of  murdered  travelleYs — Visit  to  Pierre's  Hole 
— Traces  of  the  battle — Nez  Percd  Indians — Arrival  at  Salmon  River,    89 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Horses  turned  loose — Preparations  for  winter  quarters — Hungry  times — 
Nez  Pcrcds,  their  honesty,  piety,  pacific  habits,  religious  ceremonies — 
Captain  Bonneville's  conversations  with  them — Their  love  of  gambling,    98 


CHAPTER  X. 

Blackfeet  in  the  Horse  Prairie — Search  after  the  hunters — Difficulties  and 
dangers — A  card  party  in  the  wilderness — The  card  party  interrupted 
— "  Old  Sledge  "  a  losing  game — Visitors  to  the  camp — Iroquois  hunt- 
ers— Hanging-cared   Indians,  .....  104 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Rival  trapping  parties — Manoeuvring — A  desperate  game — Vanderburgh 
and  the  Blackfeet — Deserted  camp  fire — A  dark  defile — An  Indian 
ambush — A  fierce  mel^e — fatal  consequences — Fitzpatrick  and  Bridger 
— Trappers'  precautions — Meeting  with  the  Blackfeet — More  fighting 
— Anecdote  of  a  young  Mexican  and  an  Indian  girl,        .  .  109 


iv 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

A  winter  camp  in  the  wilderness — Medley  of  trappers,  huntei  i,  and  In- 
dians— Scarcity  of  game — New  arrangements  in  the  camp — Detach- 
ments sent  to  a  distance — Carelessness  of  the  Indians  when  encamped 
— Sickness  among  the  Indians — Excellent  character  of  the  Nez  Per- 
cds — The  captain's  efforts  as  a  pacificator — A  Nez  Percy's  argument 
in  favor  of  war — Robberies  by  the  Blackfeet — Long  suffering  of  the 
Nez  Percys — A  hunter's  elysium  among  the  mountains — More  rob- 
beries— The  captain  preaches  up  a  crusade — The  effect  upon  his 
hearers,  ........ 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Story  of  Kosato,  the  renegade  Blackfoot, 

CHAPTER  XIV. 


m 


PAOB 


116 


128 


The  party  enters  the  mountain  gorge — A  wild  fastness  among  hills — 
Mountain  mutton — Peace  and  plenty — The  amorous  trapper — A  pie- 
bald wedding — A  free  trapper's  wife — her  gala  equipments — Christ- 
mas in  the  wilderness,  ......  132 

CHAPTER  XV. 

A  hunt  after  hunters — Hungry  times — A  voracious  repast — Wintry  wea- 
ther— Godin's  River — Splendid  winter  scene  on  the  great  lava  plain 
of  Snake  River — Severe  travelling  and  tramping  in  the  snow — Ma- 
noeuvres of  a  solitary  Indian  horseman — Encampment  on  Snake 
River — Banneck  Indians — The  Horse  chief — his  charmed  life,  .  138 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Misadventures  of  Matthieu  and  his  party — Return  to  the  caches  at  Sal- 
mon River — Battle  between  Nez  Percys  and  Blackfeet — Heroism  of 
a  Nez  Perc^  woman — enrolled  among  the  braves,  .  .148 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


PAOl 


rjt.an 


,  and  In- 
— Detach- 
encamped 
Nez  Per- 
argument 
ng  of  the 
VLore  rob- 
upon  his 


116 


128 


Opening  of  the  caches — Detachments  of  Cerr6  and   Hodgkiss — Salmon 

River  Mountains — Superstition  of  an  Indian  trapper — Godin's  River 

— Prepararions  for  trapping — An  alarm — An  interruption — A  rival 

band — Phenomena  of  Snake  River  plain — Vast  clefts  and  chasms — 

Ingulfed  streams — Sublime   scenery — A  grand  buffalo  hunt,  .  155 

CHAPTER  XVni. 

Meeting  with  Hodgkiss — Misfortunes  of  the  Nez  Percys — Schemes  of 
Kosato,  the  renegade — his  foray  into  the  Horse  Prairie — Invasion  of 
Black'feet — Blue  John,  and  his  forlorn  hope — their  generous  enterprise 
— their  fate — Consternation  and  despair  of  the  village — Solemn  obse- 
quies— Attempt  at  Indian  trade — Hudson's  Bay  Company's  monopoly 
— Arrangements  for  autumn — Breaking  up  of  an  encampment,         .  163 


ing  hills'^ 

— A  pie- 

ts — Christ- 


132 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Precautions  in  dangerous  defiles — Trappers'  mode  of  defence  on  a  prairie 
— A  mysterious  visitor — Arrival  in  Green  River  valley — Adventures  of 
the  detachments — The  forlorn  partisan — His  tale  of  disasters,  .  1 73 


intry  wea- 

ava  plain 
low — Ma- 
on   Snake 

fe,  .  138 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Gathering  in  Green  River  valley — Visitings  and  feastings  of  leaders — 
Rough  wassailing  among  the  trappers — Wild  blades  of  the  mountains 
— Indian  belles — Potency  of  bright  beads  and  red  blankets — Arrival  of 
supplies — Revelry  and  extravagance — Mad  wolves — The  lost  Indian,  180 


,es  at  Sal- 
leroism  of 


148 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

Schemes  of  Captain  Bonneville— The  Great  Salt  Lake — Expedition  to 
explore  it — Preparations  for  a  journey  to  the  Bighorn,  .  .  184 


•*#■■ 


n 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 


PAGE 


The  Crow  country — A  Crow  paradise — Habits  of  the  Crows — Anecdotes 
of  Rose,  the  renegade  white  man — his  fights  with  the  Blackfeet — his 
elevation — his  death — Arapooish,  the  Crow  chief— his  eagle — Adven- 
ture of  Robert  Campbell — Honor  among  Crows,        .  .  .189 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Departure  from  Green  River  valley — Popo  Agie — its  course — the  rivers  into 
which  it  runs — Scenery  of  the  BIufTs — The  great  Tar  Spring — Vol- 
canic tracts  in  the  Crow  country — Burning  mountain  of  Powder  River 
— Sulphur  springs — Hidden  fires — Colter's  Hell — Wind  River — Camp- 
bell's party — Fitzpatrick  and  his  trappers — Captain  Stewart,  an  ama- 
teur traveller — Nathaniel  Wyeth — anecdotes  of  his  expedition  to  the 
Far  West — Disaster  of  Campbell's  party — A  union  of  bands — The 
Bad  Pass — The  rapids — Departure  of  Fitzpatrick — Embarkation  of 
peltries — Wyeth  and  his  bull  boat — Adventures  of  Captain  Bonne- 
ville in  the  Bighorn  Mountains — Adventures  in  the  plain — Traces  of 
Indians — Travelling  precautions — Dangers  of  making  a  smoke — The 
rendezvous,  .  .  .  ....  197 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Adventures  of  the  party  of  ten — The  Balaamite  mule — A  dead  point — 
The  mysterious  elks — A  night  attack — A  retreat — Travelling  under 
an  alarm — A  joyful  meeting — Adventures  of  the  other  party — A  decoy 
elk — Retreat  to  an  island — A  savage  dance  of  triumph — Arrival  at 
Wind  River,  .  .  .....  207 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

Captain  Bonneville  sets  out  for  Green  River  valley — Journey  up  the  Popo 
Agie — Buffaloes — The  staring  white  bears— The  smoke — The  warm 
springa — Attempt  to  traverse  the  Wind  River  Mountains — The  Great 


CONTENTS. 


▼a 


FAOB 

Slope — Mountain  dells  and  chasms — Crystal  lakes — Ascent  of  a 
snowy  peak — Sublime  prospect — A  panorama — "  Les  dignes  de  pitie," 
or  wild  men  of  the  mountains,  .....  213 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

A  retrograde  move — Channel  of  a  mountain  torrent — Alpine  scenery — 
Cascades — Beaver  valleys — Beavers  at  work — their  architecture — their 
modes  of  felling  trees — Mode  of  trapping  beaver — Contests  of  skill — 
A  beaver  "  up  to  trap" — Arrival  at  the  Green  River  caches,  .  232 

CHAPTER  XXVn. 

Route  toward  Wind  River — Dangerous  neighborhood — Alarms  and  pre- 
cautions— A  sham  encampment — Apparition  of  an  Indian  spy — Mid- 
night  move — A  mountain  defile — The  Wind  River  valley — Tracking 
a  party — Deserted  camps — Symptoms  of  Crows — Meeting  of  comrades 
— A  trapper  entrapped — Crow  pleasantry — Crow  spies — A  decamp- 
ment— Return  to  Green  River  valley — Meeting  with  Fitzpatrick's 
party — their  adventures  among  the  Crows — Orthodox  Crows,  .  229 

CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

A  region  of  natural  curiosities — The  plain  of  white  clay — Hot  springs — 
The  Beer  Spring — Departure  to  seek  the  free  trappers — Plain  of  Port- 
neuf— Lava — Chasms  and  gullies — Banneck  Indians — their  hunt  of 
the  buffalo — Hunters'  feast — Trencher  heroes — Bullying  of  an  absent 
foe — The  damp  comrade — The  Indian  spy — Meeting  with  Hodgkiss 
— ^his  adventures — Poordevil  Indians — Triumph  of  the  Bannecks — 
Blackfeet  policy  in  war,  ......  241 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Winter  camp  at  the  Portneuf— Fine  springs — The  Banneck  Indians — 
their  honesty — Captain  Bonneville  prepares  for  an  expedition — Christ- 


TUl 


CONTENTS. 


/^r 


PAOK 


mas— The  American  Falls — Wild  scenery — Fishing  Falls— Snake 
Indians — Scenery  on  the  Bruneau — ^View  of  volcanic  country  from  a 
mountain-^Powder  River — Shoshonies,  or  Root  Diggers — their  char- 
acter, habits,  habitations,  doga — Vanity  at  its  last  shift,  .  .  351 

."'   '        ' ,       '^     '."  ■  • 

CHAPTER  XXX. 

Temperature  of  the  climate — Root  Diggers  on  horseback — An  Indian    '   > 
guide — Mountain  prospects — The  Grand  Rond — Difficulties  on  Snake 
River — A  scramble  over  the  Blue  Mountains — Sufferings  from  hunger 
—Prospect  of  the  Immahah  valley — The  exhausted  traveller,  .  362 

,       CHAPTER  XXXI.  ^ 

'.■I..'      .     •  ■..-.' 

Progress  in  the  valley — An  Indian  cavalier — The  captain  falls  into  a 

lethargy — A  Nez  Perc€  patriarch — Hospitable  treatment — The  bald 

head — Bargaining — ^Value  of  an  old  plaid  cloak — ^The  family  horse — 

The  cost  of  an  Indian  present,  .....  271 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 

Nez  Perc6  camp — A  chief  with  a  hard  name— The  Big  Hearts  of  the 
East — Hospitable  treatment — The  Indian  guides— Mysterious  coun- 
cils— The  loquacious  chief — Indian  tomb— Grand  Indian  reception — 
An ,  Indian  feast — Town-criers — Honesty  of  the  Nez  PercA^ — The 
captain's  attempt  at  healing,  .....  279 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

Scenery  of  the  Way-lee-way — A  substitute  for  tobacco — Sublime  scenery 
of  Snake  River — The  garrulous  old  chief  and  his  cousin — A  Nez 
Perc^  meeting — A  stolen  skin — The  scapegoat  dog — Msrsterious  con- 
ferences— The  little  chief— his  hospitality — The  captain's  account  of 
the  United  States— His  healing  skill,  .  .  .  .389 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 


/fl'.r'7: 


tk9* 


Fort  Wallah-Wallah — its  commander — Indians  in  its  neighborhood- 
Exertions  of  Mr.  Pambrune  for  their  improvement — Religion — Code 
of  laws — Range  of  the  Lower  Nez  Percys — Camash,  and  other  roots 
— Nez  Perc^  horses — Preparations  for  departure — Refusal  of  supplies 
— Departure — A  laggard  and  glutton,  .  .  .  .  399 

CHAPTER  XXXV. 

The  uninvited  guest — Free  and  easy  manners — Salutary  jokes — A  prodi- 
gal son — Exit  of  the  glutton — A  sudden  change  in  fortune — Danger 
of  a  visit  to  poor  relations — Plucking  of  a  prosperous  man — A  vaga* 
bond  toilet — A  substitute  for  the  very  fine  horse — Hard  travelling — 
The  uninvited  guest  and  the  patriarchal  colt — A  beggar  on  horseback 
— A  catastrophe — Exit  of  the  merry  vagabond,  .  .  .  305 

CHAPTER  XXXVI. 

The  difficult  mountain — A  smoke  and  consultation — The  captain's  speech 
— An  icy  turnpike  —  Danger  of  a  false  step  —  Arrival  on  Snake 
River — Return  to  Portneuf — Meeting  of  comrades,     .  .  .314 

CHAPTER  XXXVII. 

Departure  for  the  rendezvous — A  war  party  of  Blackfeet — A  mock  bus- 
tle— Sham  fires  at  night — Warlike  precautions — Dangers  of  a  night 
attack — A  panic  among  horses — Cautious  march — The  Beer  Springs 
— A  mock  carousal — Skirmishing  with  buffaloes — A  buffalo  bait — 
Arrival  at  the  rendezvous — Meeting  of  various  bands,  .  .  320 


CHAPTER  XXXVIII. 

Plan  of  the  Salt  Lake  expedition — Great  sandy  deserts — Sufferings  fi-om 
thirst — Ogden's  River — Trails  and  smoke  of  lurking  savages — Thefts 

1* 


CONTENTS. 


tAOM 

at  night — A  trapper's  revenge — Alarms  of  a  guilty  conscience — 
A  murderous  victory — Californian  mountains— Plains  along  the  Paci- 
fic— Arrival  at  Monterey — account  of  the  place  and  neighborhood- 
Lower  California — its  extent — The  peninsula — soil— climate — produc- 
tion— Its  settlement  by  the  Jesuits — their  sway  over  the  Indians — 
their  expulsion  —  Ruins  of  a  Missionary  establishment  —  Sublime 
scenery — Upper  California — Missions — their  power  and  policy — Re- 
sources of  the  country — Designs  of  foreign  nations,  .  .  326 

CHAPTER  XXXIX. 

Gay  life  at  Monterey — Mexican  horsemen — A  bold  dragoon — Use  of  the 
laso — Vaqueros — Noosing  a  bear — Fight  between  a  bull  and  a  bear — 
Departure  from  Monterey — Indian  horse  stealers — Outrages  committed 


by  the  travellen — Indignation  of  Captain  Bonneville, 


CHAPTER  XL. 


337 


Travellers'  tales — Indian  lurkers — Prognostics  of  Buckeye — Signs  and 
portents — The  medicine  wolf — An  alarm — An  ambush — The  captured 
provant — Triumph  of  Buckeye — Arrival  of  supplies — Grand  carouse — 
Anangements  for  the  year — Wyeth  and  his  new  levied  band  .  349 


A  voyage  in  a  bull  boat, 


CHAPTER  XLI. 


CHAPTER  XLII. 


.  348 


Departure  of  Captain  Bonneville  for  the  Columbia — Advance  of  Wyeth — 
Efforts  to  keep  the  lead — Hudson's  Bay  party — A  junketing — A  de- 
lectable beverage — Honey  and  alcohol— High  carousing — The  Cana- 
dian bon  vivant — A  cache — A  rapid  move — Wyeth  and  his  plans — 
his  travelling  companions — Buffalo  hunting — More  conviviality — An 
interruption,   .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  367 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XLIII. 


t  I 


PA«I 


A  rapid  march — A  cloud  of  dust — Wild  horsemen — f*  High  jinks  "— 
Horse-racing  and  rifle  shooting — The  game  of  hand — The  fishing 
season — Mode  of  fishing — Table  lands — Salmon  fidiers— The  cap- 
tain's visit  to  an  Indian  lodge — The  Tndiun  girl — The  pocket  mirror- 
Supper — Troubles  of  an  evil  conscience,        ....  374 

CHAPTER  XLIV. 

Outfit  of  a  trapper — Risks  to  which  he  is  subjected — Partnership  of  trap- 
pers— Enmity  of  Indians — Distant  smoke — A  country  on  fire — Gun 
Creek — Grand  Rond — Fine  pastures — Perplexities  in  a  smoky  coun- 
try—Conflagration of  forests,  .  .  ,  .  .  383 


CHAPTER  XLV. 

The  Skynses — their  traflic— hunting — food — horses — A  horse-race — Dc' 
votional  feeling  of  the  Skynses,  Nez  Percys,  and  Flatheads — Prayers 
— Exhortations — A  preacher  on  horseback — Efllect  of  religion  on  the 
manners  of  the  tribes — A  new  light,  ....  388 


CHAPTER  XLVI. 

Scarcity  in  the  camp — Refiisal  of  supplies  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany— Conduct  of  the  Indians — A  hungry  retreat — John  Da]^s  River 
— The  Blue  Mountains — Salmon  fishing  on  Snake  River — Messen- 
gers fi-om  the  Crow  country — Bear  River  valley — Immense  migration 
of  buffalo — Danger  of  buffalo  hunting — A  wounded  Indian — Eutaw 
Indians — A  "surround "of  antelopes,  ,       -    »h  •  •  394 


CHAPTER  XLVII. 


.f- 


7'»  ' 


A  festive  winter— Conversion  ef  the  Shoshonies — ^Visit  of  two  free  trap- 
pe" — Gayety  in  the  camp — A  touch  of  the  tender  passion — The  re- 


% 


xu 


CONTENTS. 


PAOI 


claimed  squaw — An  Indian  fine  lady — An  elopement— A  parauit— 
Market  value  of  a  bad  wife,   ......  403 


.*  '. 


CHAPTER  XLVIII. 


Breaking  up  of  winter  quarters — Move  to  Green  River — A  trapper  and 
his  rifle — An  arrival  in  camp— A  free  trapper  and  his  squaw  in  dis- 
tress— Story  of  a  Blackfoot  belle,        .....  409 


CHAPTER  XLIX. 

A  rendezvous  at  Wind  River — Campaign  of  Montero  and  his  brigade  in 
the  Crow  country — ^Wars  between  the  Crows  and  Blackfeet — Death 
of  Arapooish — Blackfeet  lurtiers — Sagacity  of  the  horse — Dependence 
of  the  hunter  on  his  horse — Return  to  the  settlements,  .  415 

,  APPENDIX. 

Mr.  Wyeth,  and  the  trade  of  the  Far  West,        ....  493 
Wreck  of  a  Japanese  junk  on  the  Northwest  coast,  437 

Instructions  to  Captain  Bonneville  from  the  Major  General  commanding 
the  Army  of  the  United  States,  .....  437 


•^. 


PAOI 

mrsuit— 

•                      • 

403 

\ 

per  and 

in  dia- 

.«"«■■ 


<(?^;* 


INTRODUCTORY  NOTICE. 


While  engaged  in  writing  an  account  of  the  grand  enterprise  of 
Astoria,  it  was  my  practice  to  seek  all  kinds  of  oral  information 
connected  with  the  subject.  Nowhere  did  I  pick  up  more  inter- 
esting particulars  than  at  the  table  of  Mr.  John  Jacob  Astor; 
who,  being  the  patriarch  of  the  Fur  Trade  in  the  United  States, 
was  accustomed  to  have  at  his  board  various  persons  of  adven- 
turous turn,  some  of  whom  had  been  engaged  in  his  own  great 
undertaking ;  others,  on  their  own  account,  had  made  expeditions 
to  the  Kocky  Mountains  and  the  waters  of  the  Columbia. 

Among  these  personages,  one  who  peculiarly  took  my  fancy, 
was  Captain  Bonneville,  of  the  United  States  army ;  who,  in  a 
rambling  kind  of  enterprise,  had  strangely  ingrafted  the  trapper 
and  hunter  upon  the  soldier.  As  his  expeditions  and  adventures 
will  form  the  leading  theme  of  the  following  pages,  a  few  biogra- 
phical particulars  concerning  him  may  not  be  unacceptable. 

Captain  Bonneville  is  of  French  parentage.  His  father  was 
a  worthy  old  emigrant,  who  came  to  this  country  many  years 
since,  and  took  up  his  abode  in  New- York.  He  is  represented 
as  a  man  not  much  calculated  for  the  sordid  struggle  of  a  money- 
making  world,  but  possessed  of  a  happy  temperament,  a  festivity 
of  imagination,  and  a  simplicity  of  heart,  that  made  him  proof 
against  its  rubs  and  trials.  He  was  an  excellent  scholar ;  well 
acquainted  with  Latin  and  Greek,  and  fond  of  the  modern  clas- 
sics.    His  book  was  his  elysium ;  once  immersed  in  the  pages  of 


K 


xiv 


INTRODUCTION. 


.4' 


Voltaire,  Corneillo,  or  Raoino,  or  of  his  favorite  English  author, 
Sbakspearo,  ho  forgot  tho  world  and  all  its  concerns.  Often 
would  ho  be  seen  in  summer  weather,  seated  under  one  of  the 
trees  on  the  Battery,  or  tho  portico  of  St.  Paul's  church  in 
Broadway,  his  bald  head  uncovered,  his  hat  lying  by  his  side, 
his  eyes  riveted  to  the  page  of  his  book,  and  his  whole  soul  so 
engaged,  as  to  lose  all  consciousness  of  the  passing  throng  or  the 
passing  hour. 

Captain  Bonneville,  it  will  be  found,  inherited  something  of 
his  father's  bmi/tommie,  and  his  excitable  imagination  ;  though  the 
latter  was  somewhat  disciplined  in  early  years,  by  mathematical 
studies.  He  was  educated  at  our  national  Military  Academy  at 
West  Point,  where  he  acquitted  himself  very  creditably  ;  thence, 
he  entered  the  arhiy,  in  which  he  has  ever  since  continued. 

The  nature  of  our  military  service  took  him  to  the  frontiicr, 
where,  for  a  number  of  years,  he  was  stationed  at  various  posts 
in  the  Far  West.  Here  he  was  brought  into  frequent  intercourse 
with  Indian  traders,  mountain  trappers,  and  other  pioneers  of  the 
wilderness ;  and  became  so  excited  by  their  tales  of  wild  scenes 
and  wild  adventures,  and  their  accounts  of  vast  and  magnificent 
regions  as  yet  unexplored,  that  an  expedition  to  the  Rocky 
Mountains  became  the  ardent  desire  of  his  heart,  and  an  enter- 
prise to  explore  untrodden  tracts,  the  leading  object  of  his 
ambition. 

By  degrees  he  shaped  this  vague  day-dream  into  a  practical 
reality.  Having  made  himself  acquainted  with  all  the  requisites 
for  a  trading  enterprise  beyond  the  mountains,  he  determined  to 
undertake  it.  A  leave  of  absence,  and  a  sanction  of  his  expedi- 
tion, was  obtained  from  the  major  general  in  chief,  on  his  offering 
to  combine  public  utility  with  his  private  projects,  and  to  collect 


INTRODUCTION. 


XV 


statistical  infoi* (nation  for  tlio  War  Department,  conoorning  the 
wild  countries  and  wiM  tribes  he  miglit  vi^it  in  tlio  course  of  his 
journoyings. 

Nothing  now  was  wanting  to  the  darling  project  of  the  cap- 
tain, but  the  ways  and  means.  The  expedition  would  require  an 
outfit  of  many  thousand  dollars ;  a  staggering  obstacle  to  a  sol- 
dier, whose  capital  is  seldom  any  thing  more  than  his  sword. 
Full  of  that  buoyant  hope,  however,  which  belongs  to  the  san- 
guine temperament,  he  repaired  to  New-York,  the  great  focus  of 
American  enterprise,  where  there  are  always  funds  ready  for 
any  scheme,  however  chimerical  or  romantic.  Here  he  had  the 
good  fortune  to  meet  with  a  gentleman  of  high  respectability 
and  influence,  who  had  been  his  associate  in  boyhood,  and  who 
cherished  a  schoolfellow  friendship  for  him.  He  took  a  general 
interest  in  the  scheme  of  the  captain ;  introduced  him  to  com- 
mercial men  of  his  acquaintance,  and  in  a  little  while  an  associa- 
tion was  formed,  and  the  necessary  funds  were  raised  to  carry 
the  proposed  measure  into  effect.  One  of  the  most  efficient  per- 
sons in  this  association  was  Mr.  Alfred  Seton,  who,  when  quite  a 
youth,  had  accompanied  one  of  the  expeditions  sent  out  by  Mr. 
Astor  to  his  commercial  establishments  on  the  Columbia,  and 
had  distinguished  himself  by  his  activity  and  courage  at  one  of 
the  interior  posts.  Mr.  Seton  was  one  of  the  American  youths 
who  were  at  Astoria  at  the  time  of  its  surrender  to  the  British, 
and  who  manifested  such  grief  and  indignation  at  seeing  the 
flag  of  their  country  hauled  down.  The  hope  of  seeing  that  flag 
once  more  planted  on  the  shores  of  the  Columbia,  may  have 
entered  into  his  motives  for  engaging  in  the  present  enterprise. 

Thus  backed  and  provided,  Captain  Bonneville  undertook  his 
expedition  into  the  Far  West,  and  was  soon  beyond  the  Rocky 


* 

•1^' 


XVI 


INTRODUCTION. 


Mountains.  Year  after  year  elapsed  without  his  return.  The 
term  of  his  leave  of  absence  expired,  yet  no  report  was  made  of 
him  at  head  quarters  at  Washington.  He  was  considered  virtu- 
ally dead  or  lost,  and  his  name  was  stricken  from  the  army  list. 

It  was  in  the  autumn  of  1835,  at  the  country  seat  of  Mr.  John 
Jacob  Astor,  at  Hellgate,  that  I  first  met  with  Captain  Bonne- 
ville. He  was  then  just  returned  from  a  residence  of  upwards 
of  three  years  among  the  mountains,  and  was  on  his  way  to 
report  himself  at  head  quarters,  in  the  hopes  of  being  reinstated 
in  the  service.  From  all  that  I  could  learn,  his  wanderings  in 
the  wilderness,  though  they  had  gratified  his  curiosity  and  his 
love  of  adventure,  had  not  much  benefited  his  fortunes.  Like 
Corporal  Trim  in  his  campaigns,  he  had  "satisfied  the  sentiment," 
and  that  was  all.  In  fact,  he  was  too  much  of  the  frank,  free- 
hearted soldiei*,  and  had  inherited  too  much  of  his  father's  tem- 
perament, to  make  a  scheming  trapper,  or  a  thrifty  bargainer. 
There  was  something  in  the  whole  appearance  of  the  captain  that 
prepossessed  me  in  his  favor.  He  was  of  the  middle  size,  well 
made  and  well  set ;  and  a  military  frock  of  foreign  cut,  that  had 
seen  service,  gave  him  a  look  of  compactness.  His  countenance 
was  frank,  open,  and  engaging ;  well  browned  by  the  sun,  and 
had  something  of  a  French  expression.  He  had  a  pleasant  black 
eye,  a  high  forehead,  and,  while  he  kept  his  hat  on,  the  look  of  a 
man  in  the  jocund  prime  of  his  days ;  but  the  moment  his  head 
was  uncovered,  a  bald  crown  gained  him  credit  for  a  few  more 
years  than  he  was  really  entitled  to. 

Being  extremely  curious,  at  the  time,  about  every  thing  con- 
nected with  the  Far  West,  I  addressed  numerous  questions  to 
him.  They  drew  from  him  a  number  of  extremely  striking 
details,  which  were  given  with  mingled  modesty  and  frankness ; 


INTRODUCTION. 


xvu 


urn.     The 
as  made  of 
ired  virtu- 
army  list. 
r  Mr.  John 
in  Bonne- 
f  upwards 
lis  way  to 
reinstated 
derings  in 
y  and  his 
les.     Like 
sntiment," 
•ank,  free- 
ber's  tem- 
bargainer. 
ptain  that 
size,  well 
that  had 
mtenance 
sun,  and 
int  black 
look  of  a 
his  head 
ew  more 

ing  con- 
ations to 
striking 
mkness  ,* 


and  in  a  gentleness  of  manner,  and  a  soft  tone  of  voice,  contrast- 
ing singularly  with  the  wild  and  often  startling  nature  of  his 
themes.  It  was  difl&cult  to  conceive  the  mild,  quiet-looking  per- 
sonage before  you,  the  actual  hero  of  the  stirring  scenes  related. 

In  the  course  of  three  or  four  months,  happening  to  be  at  the 
city  of  Washington,  I  again  came  upon  the  captain,  who  was 
attending  the  slow  adjustment  of  his  affairs  with  the  War 
Department.  I  found  him  quartered  with  a  worthy  brother  in 
arms,  a  major  in  the  army.  Here  he  was  writing  at  a  table, 
covered  with  maps  and  papers,  in  the  centre  of  a  large  barrack 
room,  fancifully  .decorated  with  Indian  arras,  and  trophies,  and 
war  dresses,  and  the  skins  of  various  wild  animals,  and  hung 
round  with  pictures  of  Indian  games  and  ceremonies,  and  scenes 
of  war  and  hunting.  In  a  word,  the  captain  was  beguiling  the 
tediousness  of  attendance  at  court,  by  an  attempt  at  authorship ; 
and  was  rewriting  and  extending  his  travelling  notes,  and  making 
maps  of  the  regions  he  had  explored.  As  he  sat  at  the  table, 
in  this  curious  apartment,  with  his  high  bald  head  of  somewhat 
foreign  cast,  he  reminded  me  of  some  of  those  antique  pictures 
of  authors  that  I  have  seen  in  old  Spanish  volumes. 

The  result  of  his  labors  was  a  mass  of  manuscript,  which  he 
subsequently  put  at  my  disposal,  to  fit  it  for  publication  and 
bring  it  before  the  world.  I  found  it  full  of  interesting  details 
of  life  among  the  mountains,  and  of  the  singular  castes  and  races, 
both  white  men  and  red  men,  among  whom  he  had  sojourned.  It 
bore,  too,  throughout,  the  impress  of  his  character,  his  bonJiom- 
mie,  his  kindliness  of  spirit,  and  his  susceptibility  to  the  grand 
and  beautiful. 

That  manuscript  has  formed  the  staple  of  the  following  work. 
I  have  occasionally  interwoven  facts  and  details,  gathered  from 


XVIU 


INTRODUCTION. 


various  sources,  especially  from  the  conversations  and  journals 
of  some  of  the  captain's  contemporaries,  who  were  actors  in  the 
scenes  he  describes.  I  have  also  given  it  a  tone  and  coloring 
drawn  from  my  own  observation,  during  an  excursion  into  the 
Indian  country  beyond  the  bounds  of  civilization  ;  as  I  before 
observed,  however,  the  work  is  substantially  the  narrative  of  the 
worthy  captain,  and  many  of  its  most  graphic  passages  are  but 
little  varied  from  his  own  language. 

I  shall  conclude  this  notice  by  a  dedication  which  he  had 
made  of  his  manuscript  to  his  hospitable  brother  in  arms,  in 
whose  quarters  I  found  him  occupied  in  his  literary  labors ;  it  is 
a  dedication  which,  I  believe,  possesses  the  qualities,  not  always 
found  in  complimentary  documents  of  the  kind,  of  being  sincere, 
and  being  merited. 

TO 

JAMES  HARVEY   HOOK, 

MAJOR,    U.   8.  A., 

WHOSE  JEALOUSY  OF  ITS  HONOR, 

WHOSE    ANXIETY    FOR    ITS    INTERESTS, 

AND 

WHOSE   SENSIBILITY   FOR   ITS   WANTS, 

HAVE   ENDEARED   HIM   TO  THE   SERVICE   AS 

JTJic  Soltifcr's  jfrfcnH ; 

AND   WHOSE  GENERAL   AMENITY,   CONSTANT   CHEERFULNESS, 

DISINTERESTED    HOSPITALITY,  AND    UNWEARIED 

BENEVOLENCE,   ENTITLE    HIM    TO    THE 

STILL   LOFTIER   TITLE   OF 

THE    FRIEND    OF    MAN. 

THIS  WORK   IS  INSCRIBED, 
ETC. 


'M 


New-York,  1843. 


ADVENTURES 


OP 


hich  he  had 


m  arms,  m 


CAPTAIN    BONNEVILLE. 


CHAPTER  I. 

State  of  the  fur  trade  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. — American  enterprises. — Gene- 
ral Ashley  and  his  associates. — Sublette,  a  famous  leader. — Yearly  rendez- 
vous among  tlio  mountains. — Stratagems  and  dangers  of  the  trade. — Bands 
of  trappers. — Indian  banditti — Crows  and  Blackfeet. — Mountaineers.— 
Traders  of  the  Far  West. — Character  and  habits  of  the  trapper. 


In  a  recent  work  we  have  given  an  account  of  the  grand  enter- 
prise of  Mr.  John  Jacob  Astor,  to  establish  an  American  empo- 
rium for  the  fur  trade  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  or  Oregon 
River ;  of  the  failure  of  that  enterprise  through  the  capture  of 
Astoria  by  the  British,  in  1814  ;  and  of  the  way  in  which  the 
control  of  the  trade  of  the  Columbia  and  its  dependencies  fell 
into  the  hands  of  the  Northwest  Company.  We  have  stated, 
likewise,  the  unfortunate  supineness  of  the  American  govern- 
ment, in  neglecting  the  application  of  Mr.  Astor  for  the  protec- 
tion of  the  American  flag,  and  a  small  military  force,  to  enable 


!i 


20 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


I\ 


him  to  reinstate  himself  in  the  possession  of  Astoria  at  the  re- 
turn of  peace ;  when  the  post  was  formally  given  up  by  the 
British  government,  though  still  occupied  by  the  Northwest  Com- 
pany. By  that  supineness  the  sovereignty  in  the  country  has 
been  virtually  lost  to  the  United  States ;  and  it  will  cost  both 
governments  much  trouble  and  difficulty  to  settle  matters  on 
that  just  and  rightful  footing,  on  which  they  would  readily  have 
been  placed,  had  the  proposition  of  Mr.  Astor  been  attended  to. 
We  shall  now  state  a  few  particulars  of  subsequent  events,  so  as 
to  lead  the  reader  up  to  the  period  of  which  we  are  about  to 
treat,  and  to  prepare  him  for  the  circumstances  of  our  narrative. 
In  consequence  of  the  apathy  and  neglect  of  the  American 
government,  Mr.  Astor  abandoned  all  thoughts  of  regaining 
Astoria,  and  made  no  further  attempt  to  extend  his  enterprises 
beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains  ;  and  the  Northwest  Company  con- 
sidered themselves  the  lards  of  the  country.  They  did  not  long 
enjoy  unmolested  the  sway  which  they  had  somewhat  surrepti- 
tiously attained.  A  iSerce  competition  ensued  between  them  and 
their  old  rivals,  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company ;  which  was  carried 
on  at  great  cost  and  sacrifice,  and  occasionally  with  the  loss  of 
life.  It  ended  in  the  ruin  of  most  of  the  partners  of  the  North- 
west Company  ;  and  the  merging  of  the  relics  of  that  establish- 
ment, in  1821,  in  the  rival  association.  From  that  time,  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  enjoyed  a  monopoly  of  the  Indian  trade 
from  the  coast  of  the  Pacific  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  for  a 
considerable  extent  north  and  south.  They  removed  their  empo- 
rium from  Astoria  to  Fort  Vancouver,  a  strong  post  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Columbia  River,  about  sixty  miles  from  its  mouth  ; 
whence  they  furnished  their  interior  posts,  and  sent  forth  their 
brigades  of  trappers. 


I 
L 


GENERAL  ASHLEY. 


91 


!a  at  the  re- 
i  up  by  the 
•thwcst  Com- 

country  has 
ill  cost  both 

matters  on 
readily  have 
attended  to. 
events,  so  as 
are  about  to 
ar  narrative, 
e  American 
)f  regaining 

enterprises 
ompany  con- 
did  not  long 
at  surrepti- 
m  them  and 

was  carried 

the  loss  of 

the  North- 
,t  establish- 
t  time,  the 
ndian  trade 
3,  and  for  a 

their  empo- 
on  the  left 

its  mouth ; 

forth  their 


i 


The  Eocky  Mountains  formed  a  vast  barrier  between  them 
and  the  United  States,  and  their  stern  and  awful  defiles,  their 
rugged  valleys,  and  the  great  western  plains  watered  by  their 
rivers,  remained  almost  a  terra  incognita  to  the  American  trap- 
per. The  difficulties  experienced  in  1808,  by  Mr.  Henry  of  the 
Missouri  Company,  the  first  American  who  trapped  upon  the 
head-waters  of  the  Columbia ;  and  the  frightful  hardships  sus- 
tained by  Wilson  P.  Hunt,  Ramsay  Crooks,  Robert  Stuart,  and 
other  intrepid  Astorians,  in  their  ill-fated  expeditions  across  the 
mountains,  appeared  for  a  time  to  check  all  further  enterprise 
in  that  direction.  The  American  traders  contented  themselves 
with  following  up  the  head  branches  of  the  Missouri,  the  Yellow- 
stone, and  other  rivers  and  streams  on  the  Atlantic  side  of  the 
mountains,  but  forbore  to  attempt  those  great  snow-crowned 
sierras. 

One  of  the  first  to  revive  these  tramontane  expeditions  was 
General  Ashley,  of  Missouri,  a  man  whose  courage  and  achieve- 
ments in  the  prosecution  of  his  enterprises,  have  rendered  him 
famous  in  the  Far  West.  In  conjunction  with  Mr.  Henry,  already 
mentioned,  he  established  a  post  on  the  banks  of  the  Yellowstone 
River,  in  1822,  and  in  the  following  year  pushed  a  resolute  band 
of  trappers  across  the  mountains  to  the  banks  of  the  Green  River 
or  Colorado  of  the  West,  often  known  by  the  Indian  name  of  the 
Seeds-ke-dee  Agie.*  This  attempt  was  followed  up  and  sustained 
by  others,  until  in  1825  a  footing  was  secured,  and  a  complete 
system  of  trapping  organized  beyond  the  mountains. 

It  is  difficult  to  do  justice  to  the  courage,  fortitude,  and  per- 

*  t.  e.  The  Prairie  Hen  River.    Agie  in  the  Crow  language  eignifiea 
river. 


23 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


i 

'I 


il 


severance  of  the  pioneers  of  the  fur  trade,  who  conducted  these 
early  expeditions,  and  first  broke  their  way  through  a  wilderness 
where  every  thing  was  calculated  to  deter  and  dismay  them. 
They  had  to  traverse  the  most  dreary  and  desolate  mountains, 
and  barren  and  trackless  wastes,  uninhabited  by  man,  or  occa- 
sionally infested  by  predatory  and  cruel  savages.  They  knew 
nothing  of  the  country  beyond  the  verge  of  their  horizon,  and 
had  to  gather  information  as  they  wandered.  They  beheld  vol- 
canic plains  stretching  around  them,  and  ranges  of  mountains 
piled  up  to  the  clouds,  and  glistening  with  eternal  frost :  but 
knew  nothing  of  their  defiles,  nor  how  they  were  to  be  penetrated 
or  traversed.  They  launched  themselves  in  frail  canoes  on  rivers, 
without  knowing  whither  their  swift  currents  would  carry  them, 
or  what  rocks,  and  shoals,  and  rapids,  they  might  encounter  in 
their  course.  They  had  to  be  continually  on  the  alert,  too, 
against  the  mountain  tribes,  who  beset  every  defile,  laid  ambus- 
cades in  their  path,  or  attacked  them  in  their  night  encampments ; 
so  that,  of  the  hardy  bands  of  trappers  that  first  entered  into 
these  regions,  three-fifths  are  said  to  have  fallen  by  the  hands  of 
savage  foes. 

In  this  wild  and  warlike  school  a  number  of  leaders  have 
sprung  up,  originally  in  the  employ,  subsequently  partners  of 
Ashley ;  among  these  we  may  mention  Smith,  Fitzpatrick,  Bridger, 
Robert  Campbell,  and  William  Sublette  ;  whose  adventures  and 
exploits  partake  of  the  wildest  spirit  of  romance.  The  associa- 
tion commenced  by  General  Ashley  underwent  various  modiuca- 
tions.  That  gentleman  having  acquired  suflir'orc  fortune,  sold 
out  his"  interest  and  retired;  and  the  leading  spirit  that  suc- 
ceeded him  was  Captain  William  Sublette ;  a  man  worthy  of 
note,  as  his  name  has  become  renowned  in  frontier  story.     He  is 


y 

™ 


THE  RIVAL  COMPANIES. 


23 


lucted  these 
a  wilderness 
ismay  them. 
!  mountains, 
tian,  or  occa- 

They  knew 
lorizon,  and 
r  beheld  vol- 
f  mountains 
l1  frost :  but 
3  penetrated 
es  on  rivers, 

carry  them, 
ncounter  in 
3  alert,  too, 
laid  ambus- 

ampments ; 

ntered  into 

le  hands  of 

aders  have 
partners  of 

c,  Bridger, 
ntures  and 
he  associa- 
s  modij2ca' 
rtune,  sold 
t  that  suc- 

worthy  of 
ry.     He  is 


i 


a  native  of  Kentucky,  and  of  game  descent ;  his  maternal  grand- 
father, Colonel  Wheatley,  a  companion  of  Boon,  having  been 
one  of  the  pioneers  of  the  West,  celebrated  in  Indian  warfare, 
and  killed  in  one  of  the  contests  of  the  "  Bloody  Ground."  We 
shall  frequently  have  occasion  to  speak  of  this  Sublette,  and  al- 
ways to  the  credit  of  his  game  qualities.  In  1830,  the  associa- 
tion took  the  name  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company,  of 
which  Captain  Sublette  and  Robert  Campbell  were  prominent 
members. 

In  the  meantime,  the  success  of  this  company  attracted  the 
attention  and  excited  the  emulation  of  the  American  Fur  Com- 
pany, and  brought  them  once  more  into  the  field  of  their  ancient 
enterprise.  Mr.  Astor,  the  founder  of  the  association,  had  re- 
tired from  busy  life,  and  the  concerns  of  the  company  were  ably 
managed  by  Mr.  Ramsay  Crooks,  of  Snake  River  renown,  who 
still  officiates  as  its  president.  A  competition  immediately  en- 
sued between  the  two  companies,  for  the  trade  with  the  mountain 
tribes,  and  the  trapping  of  the  head-waters  of  the  Columbia,  and 
the  other  great  tributaries  of  the  Pacific.  Beside  the  regular 
operations  of  these  formidable  rivals,  there  have  been  from  time 
to  time  desultory  enterprises,  or  rather  experiments,  of  minor 
associations,  or  of  adventurous  individuals,  beside  roving  bands 
of  independent  trappers,  who  either  hunt  for  themselves,  or  en- 
gage for  a  single  season,  in  the  service  of  one  or  other  of  the 
main  companies. 

The  consequence  is,  that  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  the  ulte- 
rior regions,  from  the  Russian  possessions  in  the  north,  down  to 
the  Spanish  settlements  of  California,  have  been  traversed  and 
ransacked  in  every  direction  by  bands  of  hunters  and  Indian 
traders  ;  so  that  there  is  scarcely  a  mountain  pass,  or  defile,  that 


i 


M 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


I 


'I 


■:'ii? 


m^ 


if! 


'■if 


jr 


I 


is  not  known  and  threaded  in  their  restless  migrations,  nor  a 
nameless  stream  that  is  not  haunted  by  the  lonely  trapper. 

The  American  fur  companies  keep  no  established  posts  be- 
yond the  mountains.  Every  thing  there  is  regulated  by  resident 
partners ;  that  is  to  say,  partners  who  reside  in  the  tramontane 
country,  but  who  move  about  from  place  to  place,  either  with 
Indian  tribes,  whoso  traffic  they  wish  to  monopolize,  or  with  main 
bodies  of  their  own  men,  whom  they  employ  in  trading  and  trap- 
ping. In  the  meantime,  they  detach  bands,  or  "  brigades "  as 
they  are  termed,  of  trappers  in  various  directions,  assigning  to 
each  a  portion  of  country  as  a  hunting,  or  trapping  ground.  In 
the  mouths  of  June  and  July,  when  there  is  an  interval  between 
the  hunting  seasons,  a  general  rendezvous  is  held,  at  some  desig- 
nated place  in  the  mountains,  where  the  affairs  of  the  past  year 
are  settled  by  the  resident  partners,  and  the  plans  for  the  follow- 
ing year  arranged. 

To  this  rendezvous  repair  the  various  brigades  of  trappers 
from  their  widely  separated  hunting  grounds,  bringing  in  the 
products  of  their  year's  campaign.  Hither  also  repair  the  In- 
dian tribes  accustomed  to  traffic  their  peltries  with  the  company. 
Bands  of  free  trappers  resort  hither  also,  to  sell  the  furs  they 
have  collected  ;  or  to  engage  their  services  for  the  next  hunting 
season. 

To  this  rendezvous  the  company  sends  annually  a  convoy  of 
supplies  from  its  establishment  on  the  Atlantic  frontier,  under 
the  guidance  of  some  experienced  partner  or  officer.  On  the 
arrival  of  this  convoy,  the  resident  partner  at  the  rendezvous 
depends,  to  set  all  his  next  year's  machinery  in  motion. 

Now  as  the  rival  companies  keep  a  vigilant  eye  upon  each 
other,  and  are  anxious  to  discover  each  other's  plans  and  move* 


4 


DANGERS  OF  THE  TRADE. 


tions,  nor  a 

'1 

apper. 

1 

d  posts  be- 

s 

by  resident 

fl 

tramontane 

'fl 

either  with 

n*.  -f^^K 

»r  with  main 

v 

ig  and  trap- 

H 

rigades"  as 

-V 

issigning  to 

\9 

jround.     In 

'« 

rval  between 

Jh 

some  desig- 

^^m 

ie  past  year 

^  ^1 

r  the  foliow- 

^ 

of  trappers 

1 

ging  in  the 

'^. 

lair  the  In- 

"  -i^-'^. 

le  company. 

* 

e  furs  they 

■A 

5xt  hunting 

a  convoy  of 

•••J5 

itier,  under 

r.     On  the 

.4 

rendezvous 

■  i 

)n. 

upon  each 

and  move- 

"  ''y 

ments,  they  generally  contrive  to  hold  their  annual  assemblages 
at  no  great  distance  apart.  An  eager  competition  exists  also 
between  their  respective  convoys  of  supplies,  which  shall  first 
reach  its  place  of  rendezvous.  For  this  purpose,  they  set  oflf 
with  the  first  appearance  of  grass  on  the  Atlantic  frontier,  and 
push  with  all  diligence  for  the  mountains.  The  company  that 
can  first  open  its  tempting  supplies  of  coffee,  tobacco,  ammuni- 
tion, scarlet  cloth,  blankets,  bright  shawls,  and  glittering  trink- 
ets, has  the  greatest  chance  to  got  all  the  peltries  and  furs  of  the 
Indians  and  free  trappers,  and  to  engage  their  services  for  the 
next  season.  It  is  able,  also,  to  fit  out  and  dispatch  its  own 
trappers  the  soonest,  so  as  to  get  the  start  of  its  competitors, 
and  to  have  the  first  dash  into  the  hunting  and  trapping  grounds. 

A  new  species  of  strategy  has  sprung  out  of  this  hunting 
and  trapping  competition.  The  constant  study  of  the  rival  bands 
is  to  forestall  and  outwit  each  other  ;  to  supplant  each  other  in 
the  good  will  and  custom  of  the  Indian  tribes ;  to  cross  each 
other's  plans ;  to  mislead  each  other  as  to  routes ;  in  a  word, 
next  to  his  own  advantage,  the  study  of  the  Indian  trader  is  the 
disadvantage  of  his  competitor. 

The  influx  of  this  wandering  trade  has  had  its  effects  on  the 
habits  of  the  mountain  tribes.  They  have  found  the  trapping  of 
the  beaver  their  most  profitable  species  of  hunting ;  and  the 
traffic  with  the  white  man  has  opened  to  them  sources  of  luxury 
of  which  they  previously  had  no  idea.  The  introduction  of  fire- 
arms has  rendered  them  more  successful  hunters,  but  at  the  same 
time,  more  formidable  foes ;  some  of  them,  incorrigibly  savage 
and  warlike  in  their  nature,  have  found  the  expeditions  of  the 
fur  traders,  grand  objects  of  profitable  adventure.  To  waylay 
and  harass  a  band  of  trappers  with  their  pack-horses,  when  em- 

2 


■ti.* 


18 


nONNKVILLE'S  ADVENTURKS. 


'Id 


barrassed  in  tho  rugged  dcfilc»  of  the  mountains,  has  become  as 
favorite  an  exploit  with  these  Indians  us  tho  plunder  of  a  caravan 
to  the  Arab  of  the  desert.  The  Crows  and  Blackfeet,  who  were 
such  terrors  in  the  path  of  the  early  adventurers  to  Astoria,  still 
continue  their  predatory  habits,  but  seem  to  have  brought  them 
to  greater  system.  They  know  tho  routes  and  resorts  of  tho 
trappers ;  where  to  waylay  them  on  their  journeys  ;  where  to  find 
them  in  tho  hunting  seasons,  and  where  to  hover  about  them  in 
winter  quarters.  The  life  of  a  trapper,  therefore,  is  a  perpetual 
state  militant,  and  he  must  sleep  with  his  weapons  in  his  hands. 

A  new  order  of  trappers  and  traders,  also,  have  grown  out  of 
this  system  of  things.  In  the  old  times  of  the  great  Northwest 
Company,  when  the  trade  in  furs  was  pursued  chiefly  about  the 
lakes  and  rivers,  the  expeditions  were  carried  on  in  batteaux  and 
canoes.  The  voyageurs  or  boatr  ion  were  the  rank  and  file  in  the 
service  of  the  trader,  and  even  tho  hardy  "  men  of  the  north," 
those  great  ruiHers  and  game  birds,  were  fain  to  be  paddled  from 
point  to  point  of  their  migrations. 

A  totally  different  class  has  now  sprung  up  ; — "  the  Moun- 
taineers," the  traders  and  trappers  that  scale  the  vast  mountain 
chains,  and  pursue  their  hazardous  vocations  amidst  their  wild 
recesses.  They  mov^e  from  place  to  place  on  horseback.  The 
equestrian  exercises,  therefore,  in  which  they  are  engaged,  the 
nature  of  the  countries  they  traverse,  vast  plains  and  mountains, 
pure  and  exhilarating  in  atmospheric  qualities,  seem  to  make  them 
physically  and  mentally  a  more  lively  and  mercurial  race  than 
the  fur  traders  and  trappers  of  former  days,  the  self-vaunting 
"  men  of  the  north."  A  man  who  bestrides  a  horse,  must  be 
essentially  different  from  a  man  who  cowers  in  a  canoe.  We  find 
them,  accordingly,  hardy,  lithe,  vigorous,  and  active ;  extravagant 


CHARACTER  OF  TIIK  TRAPnOR. 


97 


become  as 
)f  a  caravan 
t,  who  were 
Istoria,  still 
jught  them 
jorts  of  the 
'here  to  find 
lut  them  in 
a  perpetual 
Q  his  hands, 
jrown  out  of 
t  Northwest 
Jy  about  the 
)atteaux  and 
id  file  in  the 

the  north," 
►addled  from 

■"  the  Moun- 
ist  mountain 
t  their  wild 
eback.     The 
engaged,  the 
i  mountains, 
,0  make  them 
al  race  than 
self-vaunting 
rse,  must  be 
oe.    We  find 
extravagant 


in  word,  in  thought,  and  deed  ;  heedless  of  hardship ;  daring 
of  danger ;  prodigal  of  the  present,  and  thoughtless  of  the 
future.  ■    * 

A  diflfercnce  is  to  be  perceived  even  between  these  mountain 
hunters  and  those  of  the  lower  regions  along  the  waters  of  the 
Missouri.  The  latter,  generally  French  Creoles,  live  comfortably 
in  cabins  and  log-huts,  well  sheltered  from  the  inclemencies  of 
the  seasons.  They  are  within  the  reach  of  frequent  supplies 
from  the  settlements  ;  their  life  is  comparatively  free  from  dan- 
ger, and  from  most  of  the  vicissitudes  of  the  upper  wilderness. 
The  consequence  is,  that  they  are  less  hardy,  self-dependent  and 
game-spirited,  than  the  mountaineer.  If  the  latter  by  chance 
comes  among  them  on  his  way  to  and  from  the  settlements,  he  is 
like  a  game-cock  among  the  common  roosters  of  the  poultry-yard. 
Accustomed  to  live  in  tents,  or  to  bivouac  in  the  open  air,  he 
despises  the  comforts  and  is  impatient  of  the  confinement  of  the 
log-house.  If  his  meal  is  not  ready  in  season,  he  takes  his  rifle, 
hies  to  the  forest  or  prairie,  shoots  his  own  game,  lights  his  fire, 
and  cooks  his  repast.  With  his  horse  and  his  rifle,  he  is  inde- 
pendent of  the  world,  and  spurns  at  all  its  restraints.  The  very 
superintendents  at  the  lower  posts  will  not  put  him  to  mess  with 
the  common  men,  the  hirelings  of  the  establishment,  but  treat 
him  as  something  superior. 

There  is,  perhaps,  no  class  of  men  on  the  face  of  the  earth, 
says  Captain  Bonneville,  who  lead  a  life  of  more  continued  exer- 
tion, peril,  and  excitement,  and  who  are  more  enamored  of  their 
occupations,  than  the  free  trappers  of  the  West.  No  toil,  no 
danger,  no  privation  can  turn  the  trapper  from  his  pursuit.  His 
passionate  excitement  at  times  resembles  a  mania.  In  vain  may 
the  most  vigilant  and  cruel  savages  beset  his  path  ;  in  vain  may 


08 


BONNEVILLKS  ADVENTURES. 


ii: 


rocks,  aud  precipices,  and  wintry  torrents  oppoHo  his  progress ; 
lot  but  a  single  track  of  a  buuvcr  meet  his  eye,  and  he  forgets  all 
dangers  and  defies  all  difficulties.  At  times,  he  niuy  bo  seen  with 
his  traps  on  his  shoulder,  buffeting  his  way  across  rapid  streams, 
amidst  floating  blocks  of  ice :  at  other  times,  ho  is  to  be  found 
with  his  traps  swung  on  his  back  clambering  the  most  rugged 
mountains,  scaling  or  descending  the  most  frightful  precipices, 
searching,  by  routes  inaccessible  to  the  horse,  and  never  before 
trodden  by  white  man,  for  springs  and  lakes  unknown  to  his 
comrades,  and  where  he  may  meet  with  his  favorite  game.  Such 
is  the  mountaineer,  the  hardy  trapper  of  the  West ;  and  such, 
as  we  have  slightly  sketched  it,  is  the  wild,  Robin  Hood  kind  of 
life,  with  all  its  strange  aud  motley  populace,  now  existing  in  full 
vigor  among  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

Having  thus  given  the  reader  some  idea  of  the  actual  state 
of  the  fur  trade  in  the  interior  of  our  vast  continent,  and  made 
him  acquainted  with  the  wild  chivalry  of  the  mountains,  we  will 
no  longer  delay  the  introduction  of  Captain  Bonneville  and  his 
band  into  this  field  of  their  enterprise,  but  launch  them  at  once 
upon  the  perilous  plains  of  the  Far  West. 


'I 


DEPARTURE  FROM  FORT  OSAGE. 


90 


CHAPTER  II. 

Departure  from  Fort  Oange. — Modea  of  transportation. — Pack-horses. — Wag- 
ons.— Wnlkcr  nnd  Cerrd  ;  their  characters. — Buoyant  feelings  on  launch- 
ing upon  the  Prniries. — Wild  equipments  of  the  trappers. — Their  gambols 
oml  unties. — Difference  of  character  between  the  American  and  French 
trappers. — Agency  of  the  Kansas. — General  Clarke. — White  Plume,  the 
Kansas  Chief — Night  scene  in  a  trader's  camp. — Colloquy  between  White 
Plume  and  the  Captain. — Bee-hunters. — Their  expeditions. — Their  feuds 
with  the  Indians. — Bargaining  talent  of  White  Plume. 


■J. 


I 


It  was  on  tho  first  of  May,  1832,  that  Captain  Bonneville  took 
his  departure  from  the  frontier  post  of  Fort  Osage,  on  the  Mis- 
souri. He  had  enlisted  a  party  of  one  hundred  and  ten  men, 
most  of  whom  had  been  in  the  Indian  country,  and  some  of  whom 
were  experienced  hunters  and  trappers.  Fort  Osage,  and  other 
places  on  the  borders  of  the  western  wilderness,  abound  with 
characters  of  the  kind,  ready  for  any  expedition. 

The  ordinary  mode  of  transportation  in  these  great  inland 
expeditions  of  the  fur  traders  is  on  mules  and  pack-horses  ;  but 
Captain  Bonneville  substituted  wagons.  Though  he  was  to 
travel  through  a  trackless  wilderness,  yet  the  greater  part  of  his 
route  would  lie  across  open  plains,  destitute  of  forests,  and  where 
wheel  carriages  can  pass  in  every  direction.  The  chief  difficulty 
occurs  in  passing  tho  deep  ravines  cut  through  the  prairies  by 


30 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


M,P-!i 


ml 


m 


streams  and  winter  torrents.  Here  it  is  often  necessary  to  dig 
a  road  down  the  banks,  and  to  make  bridges  for  the  wagons. 

In  transporting  his  baggage  in  vehicles  of  this  kind,  Captain 
Bonneville  thought  he  would  save  the  great  delay  caused  every 
morning  by  packing  the  horses,  and  the  labor  of  unpacking  in  the 
evening.  Fewer  horses  also  would  be  required,  and  less  risk 
incurred  of  their  wandering  away,  or  being  frightened  or  carried 
off  by  the  Indians.  The  wagons,  also,  would  be  more  easily  de- 
fended, and  might  form  a  kind  of  fortification  in  case  of  attack 
in  the  open  prairies.  A  train  of  twenty  wagons,  drawn  by  oxen, 
or  by  four  mules  or  horses  each,  and  laden  with  merchandise, 
ammunition,  and  provisions,  were  disposed  in  two  columns  in  the 
centre  of  the  party,  which  was  equally  divided  into  a  van  and  a 
rear-guard.  As  sub-leaders  or  lieutenants  in  his  expedition, 
Captain  Bonneville  had  made  choice  of  Mr.  I.  R.  Walker  and 
Mr.  M.  S.  Cerre.  The  former  was  a  native  of  Tennessee,  about 
six  feet  high,  strong  built,  dark  complexioned,  brave  in  spirit, 
though  mild  in  manners.  He  had  resided  for  many  years  in 
Missouri,  on  the  frontier ;  had  been  among  the  earliest  adven- 
turers to  Santa  Fe,  where  he  went  to  trap  beaver,  and  was  taken 
by  the  Spaniards.  Being  liberated,  he  engaged  with  the  Spa- 
niards and  Sioux  Indians  in  a  war  against  the  Pawnees ;  then 
returned  to  Missouri,  and  had  acted  by  turns  as  sheriff,  trader, 
trapper,  until  he  was  enlisted  as  a  leader  by  Captain  Bonneville. 

Cerre,  his  other  leader,  had  likewise  been  in  expeditions  to 
Santa  Fc,  in  which  he  had  endured  much  hardship.  He  was  of 
the  middle  size,  light  complexioned,  and  though  but  about  twenty- 
five  years  of  age,  was  considered  an  experienced  Indian  trader. 
It  was  a  great  object  with  Captain  Bonneville  to  get  to  the  moun- 
tains before  the  summer  heats  and  summer  flies  should  reu- 


f 


APPEARANCF.  AND  EQUIPMENTS. 


31 


essary  to  dig 

I  wagons. 

cind,  Captain 

caused  every 

acking  in  the 

ind  less  risk 

ed  or  carried 

re  easily  de- 

ise  of  attack 

awn  by  oxen, 

merchandise, 

lumns  in  the 

a  van  and  a 

I  expedition, 

Walker  and 

aessee,  about 

ve  in  spirit, 

iny  years  in 

iiest  adven- 

d  was  taken 

th  the  Spa- 

vnces ;  then 

eriflf,  trader, 

Bonneville. 

peditions  to 

He  was  of 

)out  twenty- 

ian  trader. 

o  the  moun- 

■ihould  ren- 


der  the  travelling  across  the  prairies  distressing  ;  and  before  the 
annual  assemblages  of  people  connected  with  the  fur  trade,  should 
have  broken  up,  and  dispersed  to  the  hunting  grounds. 

The  two  rival  associations  already  mentioned,  the  American 
Fur  Company  and  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company,  had  their 
several  places  of  rendezvous  for  the  present  year  at  no  great  dis- 
tance apart,  in  Pierre's  Hole,  a  deep  valley  in  the  heart  of  the 
mountains,  and  thither  Captain  Bonneville  intended  to  shape  his 
course. 

It  is  not  easy  to  do  justice  to  the  exulting  feelings  of  the 
worthy  captain,  at  finding  himself  at  the  head  of  a  stout  band  of 
hunters,  trappers,  and  woodmen ;  fairly  launched  on  the  broad 
prairies,  with  his  face  to  the  boundless  West.  The  tamest  inhab- 
itant of  cities,  the  veriest  spoiled  child  of  civilization,  feels  his 
heart  dilate  and  his  pulse  beat  high,  on  finding  himself  on  horse- 
back in  the  glorious  wilderness  ;  what  then  must  be  the  excite- 
ment of  one  whose  imagination  had  been  stimulated  by  a  resi- 
dence on  the  frontier,  and  to  whom  the  wilderness  was  a  region 
of  romance ! 

His  hardy  followers  partook  of  his  excitement.  Most  of 
them  had  already  experienced  the  wild  freedom  of  savage  life, 
and  looked  forward  to  a  renewal  of  past  scenes  of  adventure  and 
exploit.  Their  very  appearance  and  equipment  exhibited  a  pie- 
bald mixture,  half  civilized  and  half  savage.  Many  of  them 
looked  more  like  Indians  than  white  men,  in  their  garbs  and  ac- 
coutrements, and  their  very  horses  were  caparisoned  in  barbaric 
style,  with  fantastic  trappings.  The  outset  of  a  band  of  adven- 
turers on  one  of  these  expeditions  is  always  animated  and  joyous. 
The  welkin  rang  with  their  shouts  and  yelps,  after  the  manner  of 
the  savages ;  and  with  boisterous  jokes  and  light-hearted  laughter. 


rri 


'III, It 


I';:, II 


m"  M 


I  ■* 


32 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


As  they  passed  the  straggling  hamlets  and  solitary  cabins  that 
fringe  the  skirts  of  the  frontier,  they  would  startle  their  inmates 
by  Indian  yells  and  war-whoops,  or  regale  them  with  grotesque 
feats  of  horsemanship,  well  suited  to  their  half  savage  appear- 
ance. Most  of  these  abodes  were  inhabited  by  men  who  had 
themselves  been  in  similar  expeditions ;  they  welcomed  the  travel 
lers,  therefore,  as  brother  trappers,  treated  them  with  a  hunter's 
hospitality,  and  cheered  them  with  an  honest  God  speed,  at 
parting. 

And  here  we  would  remark  a  great  diflFerence,  in  point  of  cha- 
racter and  quality,  between  the  two  classes  of  trappers,  the 
"American"  and  "French,"  as  they  are  called  in  contradistinc- 
tion. The.  latter  is  meant  to  designate  the  French  Creole  of 
Canada  or  Louisiana  ;  the  former,  the  trapper  of  the  old  Ameri- 
can stock,  from  Kentucky,  Tennessee,  and  others  of  the  western 
States.  The  French  trapper  is  represented  as  a  lighter,  softer, 
more  self-indulgent  kind  of  man.  He  must  have  his  Indian  wife, 
his  lodge,  and  his  petty  conveniences.  He  is  gay  and  thoughtless, 
takes  little  heed  of  landmarks,  depends  upon  his  leaders  and 
companions  to  think  for  the  common  weal,  and,  if  left  to  himself, 
is  easily  perplexed  and  lost. 

The  American  trapper  stands  by  himself,  and  is  peerless  for 
the  service  of  the  wilderness.  Drop  him  in  the  midst  of  a  prai- 
rie, or  in  the  heart  of  the  mountains,  and  he  is  never  at  a  loss. 
He  notices  every  landmark ;  can  retrace  his  route  through  the 
most  monotonous  plains,  or  the  most  perplexed  labyrinths  of  the 
mountains  ;  no  danger  nor  difficulty  can  appal  him,  and  he  scorns 
to  complain  under  any  privation.  In  equipping  the  two  kinds  of 
trappers,  the  Creole  and  Canadian  are  apt  to  prefer  the  light 
fusee  j  the  American  always  grasps  his  rifle ;  he  despises  what 


KANSAS  AGENCY. 


33 


•y  cabins  that 
their  inmates 
ith  grotesque 
ivage  appear- 
nen  who  had 
ed  the  travel 
th  a  hunter's 
od  speed,  at 

point  of  cha- 

trappers,  the 

jontradistinc- 

ich  Creole  of 

le  old  Ameri- 

'  the  western 

ghter,  softer, 

Indian  wife, 

thoughtless, 

leaders  and 


ft  to  himself. 

peerless  for 

* 

st  of  a  prai- 

$ 

er  at  a  loss. 

•       "-'V. 

through  the 

inths  of  the 

**  *" 

ad  he  scorns 

two  kinds  of 

.J 

}r  the  light 

? 

Bspises  what 

he  calls  the  "shot-gun."  "We  give  these  estimates  on  the  au- 
thority of  a  trader  of  long  experience,  and  a  foreigner  by  birth. 
"  I  consider  one  American,"  said  he,  "  equal  to  three  Canadians 
in  point  of  sagacity,  aptness  at  resources,  self  dependence,  and 

fearlessness  of  spirit.  In  fact,  no  one  can  cope  with  him  as  a 
stark  tramper  of  the  wilderness."  ■     > 

Beside  the  two  classes  of  trappers  just  mentioned,  Captain 
Bonneville  had  enlisted  several  Delaware  Indians  in  his  employ, 
on  whose  hunting  qualifications  he  placed  great  reliance. 

On  the  6th  of  May  the  travellers  passed  the  last  border  habi- 
tation, and  bade  a  long  farewell  to  the  ease  and  security  of  civili- 
zation. The  buoyant  and  clamorous  spirits  with  which  they  had 
commenced  their  march,  gradually  subsided  as  they  entered  upon 
its  difficulties.  They  found  the  prairies  saturated  with  the  heavy 
cold  rains,  prevalent  in  certain  seasons  of  the  year  in  this  part 
of  the  country,  the  wagon  wheels  sank  deep  in  the  mire,  the  hor- 
ses were  often  to  the  fetlock,  and  both  steed  and  rider  were  com- 
pletely jaded  by  the  evening  of  the  12th,  when  they  reached  the 
Kansas  River ;  a  fine  stream  about  three  hundred  yards  wide, 
entering  the  Missouri  from  the  south.  Though  fordable  in  almost 
every  part  at  the  end  of  summer  and  during  the  autumn,  yet  it 
was  necessary  to  construct  a  raft  for  the  transportation  of  the 
wagons  and  eflfects.  All  this  was  done  in  the  course  of  the  fol- 
lowing day,  and  by  evening,  the  whole  party  arrived  at  the  agency 
of  the  Kansas  tribe.  This  was  under  the  superintendence  of  Gen- 
eral Clarke,  brother  of  the  celebrated  traveller  of  the  same  name, 
who,  with  Lewis,  made  "ihe  first  expedition  down  the  waters  of  the 
Columbia.  He  was  living  like  a  patriarch,  surrounded  by  labor- 
ers and  interpreters,  all  snugly  housed,  and  provided  with  excel- 
lent farms.     The  functionary  next  in  consequence  to  the  agent, 

2* 


34 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


was  the  blacksmith,  a  most  important,  and,  indeed,  indispensable 
personage  in  a  frontier  community.  The  Kansas  resemble  the 
Osages  in  features,  dress,  and  language  ;  they  raise  corn  and 
hunt  the  buffalo,  ranging  the  Kansas  River,  and  its  tributary 
streams  ;  at  the  time  of  the  captain's  visit,  they  were  at  war  with 
the  Pawnees  of  the  Nebraska,  or  Platte  lliver. 

The  unusual  sight  of  a  train  of  wagons,  caused  quite  a  sen- 
sation among  these  savages ;  who  thronged  about  the  caravan, 
examining  every  thing  minutely,  and  asking  a  thousand  ques- 
tions :  exhibiting  a  degree  of  excitability,  and  a  lively  curiosity, 
totally  opposite  to  that  apathy  with  which  their  race  is  so  often 
reproached.         •  ,         . 

The  personage  who  most  attracted  the  captain's  attention  at 
this  place,  was  "  White  Plume,"  the  Kansas  chief,  and  they  soon 
became  good  friends.  White  Plume  (we  are  pleased  with  his 
chivalrous  soubriquet)  inhabited  a  large  stone  house,  built  for 
him  by  order  of  the  American  government :  but  the  establish- 
ment had  not  been  carried  out  in  corresponding  style.  It  might 
be  palace  without,  but  it  was  wigwam  within ;  so  that,  between 
the  stateliness  of  his  mansion,  and  the  squalidness  of  his  furni- 
ture, the  gallant  White  Plume  presented  some  such  whimsical 
incongruity  as  wo  see  in  the  gala  equipments  of  an  Indian  chief, 
on  a  treaty-making  embassy  at  Washington,  who  has  been  gene- 
rously decked  out  in  cocked  hat  and  military  coat,  in  contrast 
to  his  breech-clout  and  leathern  legglns ;  being  grand  officer  at 
top,  and  ragged  Indian  at  bottom. 

White  Plume  was  so  taken  with  the  courtesy  of  the  captain, 
and  pleased  with  one  or  two  presents  received  from  him,  that  he 
accompanied  him  a  day's  journey  on  his  march,  and  passed  a  night 
in  his  camp,  on  the  margin  of  a  small  stream.     The  method  of 


THE  ENCAMPMENT. 


35 


encamping  generally  observed  by  tbe  captain,  was  as  follows: 
The  twenty  wagons  were  disposed  in  a  square,  at  the  distance  of 
thirty-three  feet  from  each  other.  In  every  interval  there  was  a 
mess  stationed ;  and  each  mess  had  its  fire,  where  the  men 
cooked,  ate,  gossiped,  and  slept.  The  horses  were  placed  in  the 
centre  of  the  square,  with  a  guard  stationed  over  them  at  night. 

The  horses  were  "  side  lined,"  as  it  is  termed :  that  is  to  say, 
the  fore  and  hind  foot  on  the  same  side  of  the  animal  were  tied 
together,  so  as  to  be  within  eighteen  inches  of  each  other.  A 
horse  thus  fettered  is  for  a  time  sadly  embarrassed,  but  soon  be- 
comes suflSciently  accustomed  to  the  restraint  to  move  about 
slowly.  It  prevents  his  wandering ;  and  his  being  easily  carried 
off  at  night  by  lurking  Indians.  When  a  horse  that  is  "  foot 
free,"  is  tied  to  one  thus  secured,  the  latter  forms,  as  it  were,  a 
pivot,  round  which  the  other  runs  and  curvets,  in  case  of  alarm. 

The  encampment  of  which  we  are  speaking,  presented  a 
striking  scene.  The  various  mess-fires  were  surrounded  by  pictu- 
resque groups,  standing,  sitting,  and  reclining  ;  some  busied  in 
cooking,  others  in  cleaning  their  weapons :  while  the  frequent  laugh 
told  that  the  rough  joke,  or  merry  story  was  going  on.  In  the 
middle  of  the  camp,  before  the  principal  lodge,  sat  the  two 
chieftains,  Captain  Bonneville  and  White  Plume,  in  soldier-like 
communion,  the  captain  delighted  with  the  opportunity  of  meet- 
ing, on  social  terms,  with  one  of  the  red  warriors  of  the  wilder- 
ness, the  unsophisticated  children  of  nature.  The  latter  was 
squatted  on  his  buffalo  robe,  his  strong  features  and  red  skin 
glaring  in  the  broad  light  of  a  blazing  fire,  while  he  recounted 
astounding  tales  of  the  bloody  exploits  of  his  tribe  and  himself, 
in  their  wars  with  the  Pawnees ;  for  there  are  no  old  soldiers 
more  given  to  long  campaigning  stories,  than  Indian  "  braves." 


« 


C'. 


36 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


tHi 


sill 

I 

m 


■■<^ 


The  feuds  of  White  Flume,  however,  had  not  been  confined 
to  the  red  men ;  he  had  much  to  say  of  brushes  with  bee  hunters, 
a  class  of  offenders  for  whom  he  seemed  to  cherish  a  particular 
abhorrence.  As  the  species  of  hunting  prosecuted  by  these 
worthies  is  not  laid  down  in  any  of  the  ancient  books  of  venerie, 
and  is,  in  fact,  peculiar  to  our  western  frontier,  a  word  or  two.  on 
thv9  subject  may  not  be  unacceptable  to  the  reader. 

The  bee  hunter  is  generally  some  settler  on  the  verge  of  the 
prairies ;  a  long,  lank  fellow,  of  fever  and  ague  complexion,  ac- 
quired from  living  on  new  soil,  and  in  a  hut  built  of  green  logs. 
In  the  autumn,  when  the  harvest  is  over,  these  frontier  settlers 
form  parties  of  two  or  three,  and  prepare  for  a  bee  hunt.  Having 
provided  themselves  with  a  wagon,  and  a  number  of  empty  casks, 
they  sally  off,  armed  with  their  rifles,  into  the  wilderness,  direct- 
ing their  course  east,  west,  north,  or  south,  without  any  regard  to 
the  ordinance  of  the  American  government,  which  strictly  forbids 
all  trespass  upon  the  lands  belonging  to  the  Indian  tribes. 

The  belts  of  woodland  that  traverse  the  lower  prairies,  and 
border  the  rivers,  are  peopled  by  innumerable  swarms  of  wild 
bees,  which  make  their  hives  in  hollow  trees,  and  fill  them  with 
honey  tolled  from  tlie  rich  flowers  of  the  prairies.  The  bees,  ac- 
cording to  popular  assertion,  are  migrating  like  the  settlers,  to 
the  west.  An  Indian  trader,  well  experienced  in  the  country,  in- 
forms us  that  within  ton  years  that  he  has  passed  in  the  Far  West, 
the  bee  Las  advanced  westward  above  a  hundred  miles.  It  is 
said  on  the  Missouri,  that  the  wild  turkey  and  the  wild  bee  go  up 
the  river  together :  neither  are  found  in  the  upper  regions.  It 
is  but  recently  that  the  wild  turkey  has  been  killed  on  the  Ne- 
braska, or  Platte ;  and  his  travelling  competitor,  the  wild  bee, 
appeared  there  about  the  same  time. 


BEE  HUNTERS. 


37 


Be  all  this  as  it  may  :  the  course  of  our  party  of  bee  hunters, 
is  to  make  a  wide  circuit  through  the  woody  river  bottoms,  and 
the  patches  of  forest  on  the  prairies,  marking,  as  they  go  out, 
every  tree  in  which  they  have  detected  a  hive.  These  marks  are 
generally  respected  by  any  other  bee  hunter  that  should  come 
upon  their  track.  When  they  have  marked  sufficient  to  fill  all 
their  casks,  they  turn  their  faces  homeward,  cut  down  the  trees 
as  they  proceed,  and  having  loaded  their  wagon  with  honey  and 
wax,  return  well  pleased  to  the  settlements. 

Now  it  so  happens  that  the  Indians  relish  wild  honey  as 
highly  as  do  the  white  men,  and  are  the  more  delighted  with  this 
natural  luxury  from  its  having,  in  many  instances,  but  recently 
made  its  appearance  in  their  lands.  The  consequence  is,  number- 
less disputes  and  conflicts  between  them  and  the  bee  hunters : 
and  often  a  party  of  the  latter,  returning,  laden  with  rich  spoil, 
from  one  of  their  forays,  are  apt  to  be  wayla'd  by  the  native 
lords  of  the  soil ;  their  honey  to  be  seized,  their  harness  cut  to 
pieces,  and  themselves  left  to  find  their  way  home  the  best  way 
they  can,  happy  to  escape  with  no  greater  personal  harm  than  a 
sound  rib-roasting. 

Such  were  the  marauders  of  whose  oflFences  the  gallant  White 
Plume  made  the  most  bitter  complaint.  They  were  chiefly  the 
settlers  of  the  western  part  of  Missouri,  who  are  the  most  famous 
bee  hunters  on  the  frontier,  and  whose  favorite  hunting  ground 
lies  within  the  lands  of  the  Kansas  tribe.  According  to  the  ac- 
count of  White  Plume,  however,  matters  were  pretty  fairly 
balanced  between  him  and  the  offenders ;  he  having  as  often 
treated  them  to  a  taste  of  the  bitter,  as  they  had  robbed  him  of 
the  sweets. 

It  is  but  justice  to  this  gallant  chief  to  say,  that  he  gave 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


In 
lii'i 


proofs  of  having  acquired  some  of  the  lights  of  civilization  from 
his  proximity  to  the  whites,  as  was  evinced  in  his  knowledge  of 
driving  a  bargain.  He  required  hard  cash  in  return  for  some  corn 
with  which  he  supplied  the  worthy  captain,  and  left  the  latter  at 
a  loss  which  most  to  admire,  his  native  chivalry  as  a  brave,  or  his 
acquired  adroitness  as  a  trader. 


■  fTfer^Trrii*""'^'-""" 


WIDE  PRAIRIES. 


39 


CHAPTER  III. 

Wide  prairies. — Vegetable  productions. — Tabular  hills. — Slabs  of  sandstone. — 
Nebraska  or  Platte  River. — Scanty  fare. — Buffalo  skulls. — Wagons  turned 
into  boats. — Herds  of  buffalo. — Cliffs  resembling  castles. — The  chimney.^ — 
Scott's  Bluffs. — Story  connected  with  them. — The  bighorn  or  ahsahta — its 
nature  and  habits. — Difference  between  that  and  the  "  woolly  sheep,"  or 
goat  of  the  mountains. 


From  the  middle  to  the  end  of  May,  Captain  Bonneville  pursued 
a  western  course  over  vast  undulating  plains,  destitute  of  tree  or 
shruh,  rendered  miry  by  occasional  rain,  and  cut  up  by  deep 
water-courses,  where  they  had  to  dig  roads  for  their  wagons  down 
the  soft  crumbling  banks,  and  to  throw  bridges  across  the 
streams.  The  weather  had  attained  the  summer  heat;  the 
thermometer  standing  about  fifty-seven  degrees  in  the  morning, 
early,  but  rising  to  about  ninety  degrees  at  noon.  The  incessant 
breezes,  however,  which  sweep  these  vast  plains,  render  the  heats 
endurable.  Game  was  scanty,  and  they  had  to  eke  out  their 
scanty  fare  with  wild  roots  and  vegetables,  such  as  the  Indian 
potato,  the  wild  onion,  and  the  prairie  tomato,  and  they  met  with 
quantities  of  "  red  root,"  from  which  the  hunters  make  a  very 
palatable  beverage.  The  only  human  being  that  crossed  their 
path  was  a  Kansas  warrior,  returning  from  some  solitary  expedi- 
tion of  bravado  or  revenge,  bearing  a  Pawnee  scalp  as  a  trophy. 


1  V3^-. 


40 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


The  country  gradually  rose  as  they  proceeded  westward,  and 
their  route  took  them  over  high  ridges,  commanding  wide  and 
beautiful  prospects.  The  vast  plain  was  studded  on  the  west 
with  innumerable  hills  of  conical  shape,  such  as  are  seen  north 
of  the  Arkansas  River.  These  hills  have  their  summits  appa- 
rently cut  off  about  the  same  elevation,  so  as  to  leave  flat  sur- 
faces at  top.  It  is  conjectured  by  some,  that  the  whole  country 
may  originally  have  been  of  the  altitude  of  these  tabular  hills  ; 
but  through  some  process  of  nature  may  have  sunk  to  its  present 
level ;  these  insulated  eminences  being  protected  by  broad  foun- 
dations of  solid  rock. 

Captain  Bonneville  mentions  another  geological  phenomenon 
north  of  Red  River,  where  the  surface  of  the  earth,  in  considera- 
ble tracts  of  country,  is  covered  with  broad  slabs  of  sandstone, 
having  the  form  and  position  of  grave-stones,  and  looking  as  if 
they  had  been  forced  up  by  some  subterranean  agitation.  "  The 
resemblance,"  says  he,  "  which  these  very  remarkable  spots  have 
in  many  places  to  old  church-yards  is  curious  in  the  extreme. 
One  might  almost  fancy  himself  among  the  tombs  of  the  pre- 
Adamites." 

On  the  2d  of  June,  they  arrived  on  the  main  stream  of  the 
Nebraska  or  Platte  River ;  twenty-five  miles  below  the  head  of 
the  Great  Island.  The  low  banks  of  this  river  give  it  an  appear- 
ance of  great  width.  Captain  Bonneville  measured  it  in  one 
place,  and  found  it  twenty-two  hundred  yards  from  bank  to  bank. 
Its  depth  was  from  three  to  six  feet,  the  bottom  full  of  quick- 
sands. The  Nebraska  is  studded  with  islands  covered  with  that 
species  of  poplar  called  the  cotton-wood  tree.  Keeping  up  along 
the  course  of  this  river  for  several  days,  they  were  obliged,  from 
the  scarcity  of  game,  to  put  themselves  upon  short  allowance,  and, 


FORT  OF  THE  NEBRASKA. 


41 


occasionally,  to  kill  a  steer.  They  bore  their  daily  labors  and 
privations,  however,  with  great  good  humor,  taking  their  tone,  in 
all  probability,  from  the  buoyant  spirit  of  their  leader.  "  If  the 
weather  was  inclement,"  says  the  captain,  "wo  watched  the 
clouds,  and  hoped  for  a  sight  of  the  blue  sky  and  the  merry  sun. 
If  food  was  scanty,  we  regaled  ourselves  with  the  hope  of  soon 
falling  in  with  herds  of  buffalo,  and  having  nothing  to  do  but 
slay  and  eat."  Wo  doubt  whether  the  genial  captain  is  not  de- 
scribing the  cheeriness  of  his  own  breast,  which  gave  a  cheery 
aspect  to  every  thing  around  him. 

There  certainly  were  evidences,  however,  that  the  country  was 
not  always  equally  destitute  of  game.  At  one  place,  they  ob- 
served a  field  decorated  with  buffalo  skulls,  arranged  in  circles, 
curves,  and  other  mathematical  figures,  as  if  for  some  mystic  rite 
or  ceremony.  They  were  almost  innumerable,  and  seemed  to 
have  been  a  vast  hecatomb  offered  up  in  thanksgiving  to  the 
Great  Spirit  for  some  signal  success  in  the  chase. 

On  the  11th  of  June,  they  came  to  the  fork  of  the  Nebraska, 
where  it  divides  itself  into  two  equal  and  beautiful  streams.  One 
of  these  branches  rises  in  the  west-southwest,  near  the  head  wa- 
ters of  the  Arkansas.  Up  the  course  of  this  branch,  as  Captain 
Bonneville  was  well  aware,  lay  the  route  to  the  Camanohe  and 
Kioway  Indians,  and  to  the  northern  Mexican  settlements ;  of 
the  other  branch  he  knew  nothing.  Its  sources  might  lie  among 
wild  and  inaccessible  cliffs,  and  tumble  and  foam  down  rugged  de- 
files and  over  craggy  precipices ;  but  its  direction  was  in  the  true 
course,  and  up  this  stream  he  determined  to  prosecute  his  route 
to  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Finding  it  impossible,  from  quicksands 
and  other  dangerous  impediments,  to  cross  the  river  in  this  neigh- 
borhood, he  kept  up  along  the  south  fork  for  two  days,  merely 


43 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


seeking  a  safe  fording  place.  At  length  he  encamped,  caused 
the  bodies  of  the  wagons  to  be  dislodged  from  the  wheels,  covered 
with  buffalo  hides,  and  besmeared  with  a  compound  of  tallow  and 
ashes ;  thus  forming  rude  boats.  In  these,  they  ferried  their 
effects  across  the  stream,  which  was  six  hundred  yards  wide,  with 
a  swift  and  strong  current.  Three  men  were  in  each  boat,  to 
manage  it ;  others  waded  across,  pushing  the  barks  before  them. 
Thus  all  crossed  in  safety.  A  march  of  nine  miles  took  them 
over  high  rolling  prairies  to  the  north  fork ;  their  eyes  being 
regaled  with  the  welcome  sight  of  herds  of  buffalo  at  a  distance, 
some  careering  the  plain,  others  grazing  and  reposing  in  the 
natural  meadows. 

Skirting  along  the  north  fork  for  a  day  or  two,  excessively 
annoyed  by  musquitoes  and  buffalo  gnats,  they  reached,  in  the 
evening  of  the  1 7th,  a  small  but  beautiful  grove,  from  which 
issued  the  confused  notes  of  singing  birds,  the  first  they  had 
heard  since  crossing  the  boundary  of  Missouri.  After  so  many 
days  of  weary  travelling,  through  a  naked,  monotonous  and  silent 
country,  it  was  delightful  once  more  to  hear  the  song  of  the  bird, 
and  to  behold  the  verdure  of  the  grove.  It  was  a  beautiful  sun- 
set, and  a  sight  of  the  glowing  rays,  mantling  the  tree-tops  and 
rustling  branches,  gladdened  every  heart.  They  pitched  their 
camp  in  the  grove,  kindled  their  fires,  partook  merrily  of  their 
rude  fare,  and  resigned  themselves  to  the  sweetest  sleep  they  had 
enjoyed  since  their  outset  upon  the  prairies.  - 

The  country  now  became  rugged  and  broken.  High  bluffs 
advanced  upon  the  river,  and  forced  the  travellers  occasionally  to 
leave  its  banks  and  wind  their  course  into  the  interior.  In  one 
of  the  wild  and  solitary  passes,  they  were  startled  by  the  trail  of 
four  or  five  pedestrians,  whom  they  supposed  to  be  spies  from 


^i»-.      SCOTT'S  BLUFFS. 


43 


some  predatory  camp  of  either  Ariokara  or  Crow  Indians.  This 
obliged  them  to  redouble  their  vigilance  at  night,  and  to  keep 
cspociul  watch  upon  their  horses.  In  these  rugged  and  elevated 
regions  tliey  began  to  see  the  black-tailed  deer,  a  species  larger 
than  the  ordinary  kind,  and  chiefly  found  in  rocky  and  mountain- 
ous countries.  They  had  reached  also  a  great  buffalo  range ; 
Captain  Bonneville  ascended  a  high  bluff,  commanding  an  exten- 
sive view  of  the  surrounding  plains.  As  far  as  his  eye  could 
reach,  the  country  seemed  absolutely  blackened  by  innumerable 
herds.  No  language,  he  says,  could  convey  an  adequate  idea  of 
tlic  vast  living  mass  thus  presented  to  his  eye.  He  remarked 
that  the  bulls  and  cows  generally  congregated  in  separate  herds.  , 

Opposite  to  the  camp  at  this  place,  was  a  singular  phenome- 
non, which  is  among  the  curiosities  of  the  country.  It  is  called 
the  chimney.  The  lower  part  is  a  conical  mound,  rising  out  of 
the  naked  plain  ;  from  the  summit  shoots  up  a  shaft  ur  column, 
about  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  height,  from  which  it  de- 
rives its  name.  The  height  of  the  whole,  according  to  Captain 
Bonneville,  is  a  hundred  and  seventy-five  yards.  It  is  composed 
of  indurated  clay,  with  alternate  layers  of  red  and  white  sand- 
stone, and  may  be  seen  at  the  distance  of  upwards  of  thirty 
miles. 

On  the  21st,  they  encamped  amidst  high  and  beetling  cliffs 
of  indurated  clay  and  sandstone,  bearing  the  semblance  of  towers, 
castles,  churches,  and  fortified  cities.  At  a  distance,  it  was 
scarcely  possible  to  persuade  one's  !<»olf  that  the  works  of  art  were 
not  mingled  with  these  fantastic  freaks  of  nature.  They  have 
received  the  name  of  Scott's  Bluffs,  from  a  melancholy  circum- 
stance. A  number  of  years  since,  a  party  were  descending  the 
upper  part  of  the  river  in  canoes,  when  their  frail  barks  were 


44 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


11 


8tf  'iif 


overturned  anu  all  their  powder  spoiled.  Their  rifles  being  thus 
rendered  useless,  they  were  unable  to  procure  food  by  hunting, 
and  had  to  depend  upon  roots  and  wild  fruits  for  subsistence. 
After  suflbring  extremely  from  hunger,  they  arrived  at  Laramie's 
Fork,  a  small  tributary  of  the  north  branch  of  the  Nebraska, 
about  sixty  miles  above  the  cliffs  just  mentioned.  Here  one  of 
the  party,  by  the  name  of  Scott,  was  taken  ill ;  and  his  compa- 
nions came  to  a  halt,  until  he  should  recover  health  and  strength 
sufficient  to  proceed.  While  they  were  searching  round  in  quest 
of  edible  roots,  they  discovered  a  fresh  trail  of  white  men,  who 
had  evidently  but  recently  preceded  them.  What  was  to  be  done  ? 
By  a  forced  march  they  might  overtake  this  party,  and  thus  be 
able  to  reach  the  settlements  in  safety.  Should  they  linger,  they 
might  all  perish  of  famine  and  exhaustion.  Scott,  however,  was 
incapable  of  moving  ;  they  were  too  feeble  to  aid  him  forward, 
and  dreaded  that  such  a  clog  would  prevent  their  coming  up  with 
the  advance  party.  They  determined,  therefore,  to  abandon  him 
to  his  fate.  Accordingly,  under  pretence  of  seeking  food,  and 
such  simples  as  might  be  efficacious  in  his  malady,  they  deserted 
him  and  hastened  forward  upon  the  trail.  They  succeeded  in 
overtaking  the  party  of  which  they  were  in  quest,  but  concealed 
their  faithless  desertion  of  Scott ;  alleging  that  he  had  died  of 
disease. 

On  the  ensuing  summer,  these  very  individuals  visiting  these 
parts  in  company  with  others,  came  suddenly  upon  the  bleached 
bones  and  grinning  skull  of  a  human  skeleton,  which,  by  certain 
signs  they  recognized  for  the  remains  of  Scott.  This  was  sixty 
long  miles  from  the  place  where  they  had  abandoned  him  ;  and 
it  appeared  that  the  wretched  man  had  crawled  that  immense 
distance  before  death  put  an  end  to  his  miseries.     The  wild  and 


* 


THE  AHSAHTA. 


4ft 


picturesque  bluffs  in  the  neighborhood  of  his  lonely  grave  have 
ever  since  borne  his  name. 

Amidst  this  wild  and  striking  scenery,  Captain  Bonneville, 
for  the  first  time,  beheld  fiocks  of  the  ahsahta  or  bighorn,  an  ani- 
mal which  frequents  these  cliffs  in  great  numbers.  They  accord 
with  the  nature  of  such  scenery,  and  add  much  to  its  romantic 
effect ;  bounding  like  goats  from  crag  to  crag,  often  trooping 
along  the  lofty  shelves  of  the  mountains,  under  the  guidance  of 
some  venerable  patriarch,  with  horns  twisted  lower  than  his  muz- 
zle, and  sometimes  peering  over  the  edge  of  a  precipice,  so  high 
that  they  appear  scarce  bigger  than  crows  ;  indeed,  it  seems  a 
pleasure  to  them  to  seek  the  most  rugged  and  frightful  situations, 
doubtless  from  a  feeling  of  security. 

This  animal  is  commonly  called  the  mountain  sheep,  and  is 
often  confounded  with  another  animal,  the  "  woolly  sheep,"  found 
more  to  the  northward,  about  the  country  of  the  Flatheads.  The 
latter  likewise  inhabits  cliffs  in  summer,  but  descends  into  the 
valleys  in  the  winter.  It  has  white  wool,  like  a  sheep,  mingled 
with  a  thin  growth  of  long  hair ;  but  it  has  short  legs,  a  deep 
belly,  and  a  beard  like  a  goat,  Its  horns  are  about  five  inches 
long,  slightly  curved  backwards,  black  as  jet,  and  beautifully 
polished.  Its  hoofs  are  of  the  same  color.  This  animal  is  by 
no  means  so  active  as  the  bighorn ;  it  does  not  bound  much,  but 
sits  a  good  deal  upon  its  haunches.  It  is  not  so  plentiful  either ; 
rarely  more  than  two  or  three  are  seen  at  a  time.  Its  wool  alone 
gives  a  resemblance  to  the  sheep ;  it  is  more  properly  of  the  goat 
genus.  The  flesh  is  said  to  have  a  musty  flavor ;  some  have 
thought  the  fleece  might  be  valuable,  as  it  is  said  to  be  as  fine  as 
that  of  the  goat  of  Cashmere,  but  it  is  not  to  be  procured  in  suf- 
ficient quantities. 


« 


•<1 


46 


nONNRVILLE'S  ADVENTURKS. 


jl 

hI'  ^ 

1 

M' 

n 

iHw 

n 

iV 

1 

ill 

1 

11 ! 

The  ahsahta,  argali,  or  bighorn,  on  the  contrary,  has  short 
hair  like  a  deer,  and  resembles  it  in  shape,  but  has  the  head  and 
horns  of  a  sheep,  and  its  flesh  is  said  to  be  delicious  muttoa. 
The  Indians  consider  it  more  sweet  and  delicate  than  any  other 
kind  of  venison.  It  abounds  in  the  llocky  Mountains,  from  the 
fiftieth  degree  of  north  latitude,  quite  down  to  California ;  gener- 
ally in  tlie  highest  regions  capable  of  vegetation ;  sometimes  it 
ventures  into  the  valleys,  but  on  the  least  alarm,  regains  its  fa- 
vorite cliffs  and  precipices,  where  it  is  perilous,  if  not  impossible 
for  the  hunter  to  follow.* 

•  Dimensions  of  a  male  of  this  species,  from  the  nose  to  the  base  of  the 
tail,  five  feet ;  length  of  the  tail,  four  inches ;  girth  of  the  body,  four  feet ; 
height,  three  feet  eight  inches  ;  the  horn,  tlu-ee  feet  six  inches  long ;  one  foot 
tluree  inches  in  circumference  at  base. 


1  '^ 


■■T---^---,  j^J  i  -^-r-,        f 


AN  ALARM. 


47 


CHAPTER  IV. 


An  nlaiiii. — Crow  Indinns — their  appearance — mode  of  approach — thfir 
vensfful  errand — their  curiosity. — Hostility  between  the  Crows  and  Black- 
feet. — Loving  conduct  of  the  Crows. — Laramie's  Fork. — First  Navigation 
of  the  Nebraska. — Great  elevation  of  the  (;ountry. — Rarity  of  the  atmos- 
phere— its  effect  on  the  wood-work  of  wagons. — Black  Hills — their  wild 
nd  broken  scenery. — Indian  dogs. — Crow  trophies. — Sterile  and  dreary 
ountry. — Banks  of  the  Sweet  Water. — Buffalo  hunting. — Adventure  of 
Tom  Cain,  the  Irish  cook. 


>-* 


When  on  the  march,  Captain  Bonneville  always  sent  some  of  his 
best  hunters  in  the  advance  to  reconnoitre  the  country,  as  well 
as  to  look  out  for  game.  On  the  24th  of  May,  as  the  caravan 
was  slowly  journeying  up  the  banks  of  the  Nebraska,  the  hunters 
came  galloping  back,  waving  their  caps,  and  giving  the  rlarm 
cry,  Indians  !  Indians  ! 

The  captain  immediately  ordered  a  halt :  the  hunters  now 
came  up  and  announced  that  a  large  war-party  of  Crow  Indians 
were  just  above,  on  the  river.  The  captain  knew  the  character 
of  these  savages ;  one  of  the  most  roving,  warlike,  crafty,  and 
predatory  tribes  of  the  mountains ;  horse-stealers  of  the  first 
order,  and  easily  provoked  to  acts  of  sanguinary  violence.  Or- 
ders were  accordingly  given  to  prepare  for  action,  and  every  one 
promptly  took  the  post  that  had  been  assigned  him,  in  the  gene- 
ral order  of  the  march,  in  all  cases  of  warlike  emergency. 


^^l"^ 


48 


BOxN NEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


'  t 


;„   I 


Every  thing  being  put  in  battle  array,  the  captain  took  the 
lead  of  his  little  band,  and  moved  on  slowly  and  warily.  In  a 
little  while  he  beheld  the  Crow  warriors  emerging  from  among 
the  bluffs.  There  were  about  sixty  of  them ;  fine  martial-looking 
fellows,  painted  and  arrayed  for  war,  and  mounted  on  horses 
decked  out  with  all  kinds  of  wild  trappings.  They  came  prancing 
along  in  gallant  style,  with  many  wild  and  dexterous  evolutions, 
for  none  can  surpass  them  in  horsemanship ;  and  their  bright 
colors,  and  flaunting  and  fantastic  emb  jllishments,  glaring  and 
sparkling  in  the  morning  sunshine,  gave  them  really  a  striking 
appearance. 

Their  mode  of  approach,  to  one  not  actpainted  with  tho 
tactics  and  ceremonies  of  this  rude  chivalry  of  the  wilderness, 
had  an  air  of  direct  hostility.  They  came  galloping  forward  in 
a  body,  as  if  about  to  make  a  furious  charge,  but,  when  close  at 
hand,  opened  to  the  right  and  left,  and  wheeled  in  wide  circles 
round  the  travellers,  whooping  and  yelling  like  maniacs. 

This  done,  their  mock  fury  sank  into  a  calm,  and  the  chief, 
approaching  the  captain,  who  had  remained  warily  drawn  up, 
though  informed  of  the  pacific  nature  of  the  manoeuvre,  extended 
to  him  the  hand  of  friendship.  The  pipe  of  peace  was  smoked, 
and  now  all  was  good  fellowship. 

The  Crows  were  in  pursuit  of  a  band  of  Cheyennes,  who  had 
attacked  their  village  in  the  night,  and  killed  one  of  their  people. 
They  had  already  been  five  and  twenty  days  on  the  track  of  the 
marauders,  and  were  determined  not  to  return  home  until  they 
had  sated  their  revenge. 

A  few  days  previously,  some  of  their  scouts,  who  were  ranging 
the  country  at  a  distance  from  the  main  body,  had  discovered  the 
party  of  Captain  Bonneville.     They  had  dogged  it  for  a  time  in 


'a 


i 

■Si 


'   'S 


INDIAN  CURIOSITY. 


49 


)tain  took  the 
warily.  In  a 
;  from  among 
uartial-looking 
itod  on  horses 
came  prancing 
)us  evolutions, 
d  their  bright 
:s,  glaring  and 
jally  a  striking 

nted  with  the 
the  wilderness, 
)ing  forward  in 
,  when  close  at 
in  wide  circles 
miacs. 

and  the  chief, 
ily  drawn  up, 
uvre,  extended 
e  was  smoked, 

unes,  who  had 
their  people, 
e  track  of  the 
me  until  they 

were  ranging 
discovered  the 
for  a  time  in 


secret,  astonished  at  the  long  train  of  wagons  and  oxen,  and 
especially  struck  with  the  sight  of  a  cow  and  calf,  quietly  follow- 
ing the  caravan ;  supposing  them  to  be  some  kind  of  tame  buffalo. 
Having  satisfied  their  curiosity,  they  carried  back  to  their  chief 
intelligence  of  all  that  they  had  seen.  He  had,  in  consequence, 
diverged  from  his  pursuit  of  vengeance  to  behold  the  wonders 
described  to  him.  "  Now  that  we  have  met  you,"  said  he  to 
Captain  Bonneville,  "  and  have  seen  these  marvels  with  our  own 
eyes,  our  hearts  arc  glad."  In  fact,  nothing  could  exceed  the 
curiosity  evinced  by  these  people  as  to  the  objects  before  them. 
Wagons  had  never  been  seen  by  them  before,  and  they  examined 
tliom  with  the  greatest  minuteness ;  but  the  calf  was  the  peculiar 
object  of  their  admiration.  They  watched  it  with  intense  interest 
as  it  licked  the  hands  accustomed  to  feed  it,  and  were  struck  with 
the  mild  expression  of  its  countenance,  and  its  perfect  docility. 

After  much  sage  consultation,  they  at  length  determined 
that  it  must  be  the  "  great  medicine "  of  the  white  party ;  an 
appellation  given  by  the  Indians  to  any  thing  of  supernatural 
and  mysterious  power,  that  is  guarded  as  a  talisman.  They 
were  completely  thrown  out  in  their  conjecture,  however,  by  an 
oifer  of  the  white  men  to  exchange  the  calf  for  a  horse ;  their 
estimation  of  the  great  medicine  sabk  in  an  instant,  and  they 
declined  the  bargain. 

At  the  request  of  the  Crow  chieftain  the  two  parties  encamped 
together,  and  passed  the  residue  of  the  day  in  company.  The 
captain  was  well  pleased  with  every  opportunity  to  gain  a  know- 
ledge of  the  '•  unsophisticated  sons  of  nature,"  who  had  so  long 
I  been  objects  of  his  poetic  speculations ;  and  indeed  this  wild, 
horse-stealing  tribe  is  one  of  the  most  notorious  of  the  moun- 
tains.    The  chief,  of  course,  had  his  scalps  to  show  and  his 

3 


./«L| 


50 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


11 

!. 
'' 

m 

m 

1. 

I 

m 

■ 

i 

lo?* 


i.i 


battles  to  recount.  The  IJlackfoot  is  the  hereditary  enemy  of 
the  Crow,  towards  whom  hostility  is  like  a  cherished  principle  of 
religion  ;  for  every  tribe,  besides  its  casual  antagonists,  has  some 
enduring  foe  with  whom  there  can  be  no  permanent  reconcilia- 
tion. The  Crows  and  Blackfeet,  upon  the  whole,  are  enemies 
worthy  of  each  other,  being  rogues  and  rullians  of  the  first  water. 
As  their  predatory  excursions  extend  over  the  same  regions,  they 
often  come  in  contact  with  each  other,  and  these  casual  conflicts 
serve  to  keep  their  wits  awake  and  their  passions  alive. 

The  present  party  of  Crows,  however,  evinced  nothing  of  the 
invidious  character  for  which  they  are  renowned.  During  the 
day  and  night  that  they  were  encamped  in  company  with  the 
travellers,  their  conduct  wsis  friendly  in  the  extreme.  Tliey 
were,  in  fact,  quite  irksome  in  their  attentions,  and  had  a  caress- 
ing manner  at  times  quite  imptu'tunate.  It  was  not  until  after 
separation  on  the  following  morning,  that  the  captain  and  his 
men  ascertained  the  secret  of  all  this  loving-kindness.  In  the 
course  of  their  fraternal  caresses,  the  Crows  had  contrived  to 
empty  the  pockets  of  their  white  brothers ;  to  abstract  the  very 
buttons  from  their  coats,  and,  above  all,  to  make  free  with  their 
hunting  knives. 

By  ecjual  altitudes  of  the  sun,  taken  at  this  last  encampment, 
Captain  Bonneville  ascertained  his  latitude  to  be  41°  47'  north. 
The  thermometer,  at  six  o'clock  in  the  morning,  stood  at  fifty- 
nine  degrees  ;  at  two  o'clock,  P.  M.,  at  ninety-two  degrees  ;  and 
at  six  o'clock  in  the  evening,  at  seventy  degrees. 

The  Black  Hills,  or  Mountains,  now  began  to  be  seen  at  a 
distance,  printing  the  horizon  with  their  rugged  and  broken  out- 
lines ;  and  threatening  to  oppose  a  difficult  barrier  in  the  way  of 
the  travellers.  : 


H> 


DRYNESS  OF  THE  ATMOSPHERE. 


M 


On  the  26th  of  May,  the  travellers  encamped  at  Laramie's 
Fork,  a  dear  and  beautiful  stream,  rising  in  tJjc  west-southwest, 
maintaining  an  average  width  of  twenty  yards,  and  winding 
through  broad  meadows  abi"uiding  in  currants  and  gooseberries, 
and  adorned  with  groves  and  clumps  of  trees. 

By  an  observation  of  Jupiter's  satellites,  with  a  DoUand  re- 
flecting telescope.  Captain  Uonneville  ascertained  the  longitude 
to  be  102°  !}7^  west  of  (jireenwich. 

We  will  here  step  ahead  of  our  narrative  to  observe,  that 
about  three  years  after  the  time  of  which  we  are  treating,  Mr. 
Jlobert  Cau.pbell,  formerly  of  the  llocky  Mountain  Fur  Com- 
pany, descended  the  Platte  from  this  fork,  in  skin  canoes,  thus 
proving,  what  had  always  been  discredited,  that  the  river  was 
navigable.  About  the  sanu;  time,  he  built  a  fort  or  trading  post 
at  Laniniie's  Fork,  which  he  named  Fort  William,  after  his  friend 
and  partner,  Mr.  William  Sublette.  Since  that  time,  the  Platte 
has  become  a  highway  for  the  fur  traders. 

For  some  days  past.  Captain  Bonneville  had  been  made  sen- 
sible of  the  great  elevation  of  country  into  which  he  was  gradu- 
ally ascending,  by  the  effect  of  the  dryness  and  rarefaction  of  the 
atmosphere  upon  his  wagons.  The  wood-work  shrunk  ;  the  paint 
boxes  of  the  wheels  were  continually  working  out,  and  it  was  ne- 
cessary to  support  the  spokes  by  stout  props  to  prevent  their  fall- 
ing asunder.  The  travel' ors  were  now  entering  one  of  those  great 
steppes  of  the  Far  West,  where  the  prevalent  aridity  of  the  atmos- 
phere renders  the  country  unfit  for  cultivation.  In  these  regions 
there  is  a  fresh  sweet  growth  of  grass  in  the  spring,  but  it  is 
scanty  and  short,  and  parches  up  in  the  course  of  the  summer, 
so  that  there  is  none  for  the  hunters  to  set  fire  to  in  the  autumn. 
It  is  a  common  observation,  that  "  above  the  forks  of  the  Platte 


bonnevilijE'S  adventures. 


u 


u\ 


!> 


the  grass  does  not  burn."  All  attempts  at  agriculture  and  gar- 
dening in  the  neighborhood  of  Fort  William,  have  been  attended 
with  very  little  success.  The  grain  and  vegetables  raised  there 
have  been  scanty  in  quantity  and  poor  in  quality.  The  great  ele- 
vation of  these  plains,  and  the  dryness  of  the  atmosphere,  will 
tend  to  retain  these  immense  regions  in  a  state  of  pristine 
wildness. 

In  the  course  of  a  day  or  two  more,  the  travellers  entered 
that  wild  and  broken  tract  of  the  Crow  country  called  the  Black 
Hills,  and  here  their  journey  became  toilsome  in  the  extreme. 
Rugged  steeps  and  deep  ravines  incessantly  obstructed  their  pro- 
gress, so  that  a  great  part  of  the  day  was  spent  in  the  painful 
toil  of  digging  through  banks,  filling  up  ravines,  forcing  the  wag- 
ons up  the  most  forbidding  ascents,  or  swinging  them  with  ropes 
down  the  face  of  dangerous  precipices.  The  shoes  of  their  horses 
were  worn  out,  and  their  feet  injured  by  the  rugged  and  stony 
roads.  The  travellers  were  annoyed  also  by  frequent  but  brief 
storms,  which  would  come  hurrying  over  the  hills,  or  through  the 
mountain  defiles,  rage  with  great  fury  for  a  short  time,  and  then 
pass  off,  leaving  every  thing  calm  and  serene  again. 

For  several  nights  the  camp  had  been  infested  by  vagabond 
Indian  dogs,  prowling  about  in  quest  of  food.  They  were  about 
the  size  of  a  large  pointer  ;  with  ears  short  and  erect,  and  a  long 
bushy  tail — altogether,  they  bore  a  striking  resemblance  to  a 
wolf  These  skulking  visitors  would  keep  about  the  purlieus  of 
the  camp  until  daylight ;  when,  on  the  first  stir  of  life  among  the 
sleepers,  they  would  scamper  off  until  they  reached  some  rising 
ground,  where  they  would  take  their  seats,  and  keep  a  sharp  and 
hungry  watch  upon  every  movement.  The  moment  the  travellers 
were  fairly  on  the  march,  and  the  camp  was  abandoned,  these 


CROW  TROPHIES. 


53 


starveling  hangers-on  would  hasten  to  the  deserted  fires,  to  seize 
upon  the  half-picked  bones,  the  offals  and  garbage  that  lay  about ; 
and,  having  made  a  hasty  meal,  with  many  a  snap  and  snarl  and 
growl,  would  follow  leisurely  on  the  trail  of  the  caravan.  Many 
attempts  were  made  to  coax  or  catch  them,  but  in  vain.  Their 
quick  and  suspicious  eyes  caught  the  slightest  sinister  movement, 
and  they  turned  and  scampered  off.  At  length  one  was  taken. 
He  was  terribly  alarmed,  and  crouched  and  trembled  as  if  ex- 
pecting instant  death.  Soothed,  however,  by  caresses,  he  began 
after  a  time  to  gather  confidence  and  wag  his  tail,  and  at  length 
was  brought  to  follow  close  at  the  heels  of  his  captors,  still,  how- 
ever, darting  around  furtive  and  suspicious  glances,  and  evincing 
a  disposition  to  scamper  off  upon  the  least  alarm. 

On  the  first  of  July  the  band  of  Crow  warriors  again  crossed 
their  path.  They  came  in  vaunting  and  vainglorious  style ;  dis- 
playing five  Cheyenne  scalps,  the  trophies  of  their  vengeance. 
They  were  now  bound  homewards,  to  appease  the  manes  of  their 
conirade  by  these  proofs  that  his  death  had  been  revenged,  and 
intended  to  have  scalp-dances  and  other  triumphant  rejoicings. 
Captain  Bonneville  and  his  men,  however,  were  by  no  means  dis- 
posed to  renew  their  confiding  intimacy  with  these  crafty  savages, 
and  above  all,  took  care  to  avoid  their  pilfering  caresses.  They 
remarked  one  precaution  of  the  Crows  with  respect  to  their 
horses  ;  to  protect  their  hoofs  from  the  sharp  and  jagged  rocks 
among  which  they  had  to  pass,  they  had  covered  them  with  shoes 
of  buffalo  hide. 

The  route  of  the  travellers  lay  generally  along  the  course  of 
the  Nebraska  or  Platte,  but  occasionally,  where  steep  promonto- 
ries advanced  to  the  margin  of  the  stream,  they  were  obliged  to 
make  inland  circuits.      One  of  these  took  them  through  a  bold 


.1 


54 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


il 


•I 


and  Btern  country,  bordered  by  a  range  of  low  mountains,  run- 
ning east  and  west.  Every  thing  around  bore  traces  of  some 
fearful  convulsion  of  nature  in  times  long  past.  Hitherto  the 
various  strata  of  rock  had  exhibited  a  gentle  elevation  towards 
the  southwest,  but  here  every  thing  appeared  to  have  been  sub- 
verted, and  thrown  out  of  place.  In  many  places  there  were 
heavy  beds  of  white  sandstone  resting  upon  red.  Immense  strata 
of  rocks  jutted  up  into  crags  and  cliiFs  ;  and  sometimes  formed 
perpendicular  walls  and  overhai  ging  precipices.  An  air  of 
sterility  prevailed  over  these  savage  wastes.  The  valleys  were 
destitute  of  herbage,  and  scantily  clothed  with  a  stunted  species 
of  wormwood,  generally  known  among  traders  and  trappers  by 
the  name  of  sage.'  From  an  elevated  point  of  their  march 
through  this  region,  the  travellers  caught  a  beautiful  view  of  the 
Powder  River  Mountains  away  to  the  north,  stretching  along  the 
very  verge  of  the  horizon,  and  seeming,  from  the  snow  with 
which  they  were  mantled,  to  be  a  chain  of  small  white  clouds, 
connecting  sky  and  earth. 

Though  the  thermometer  at  mid-day  ranged  from  eighty  to 
ninety,  and  even  sometimes  rose  to  ninety-three  degrees,  yet  oc- 
casional spots  of  snow  were  to  be  seen  on  the  tops  of  the  low 
mountains,  among  which  the  travellers  were  journeying ;  proofs 
of  the  great  elevation  of  the  whole  region. 

The  Nebraska,  in  its  passage  through  the  Black  Hills,  is  con- 
fined to  a  much  narrower  channel  than  that  through  which  it 
flows  in  the  plains  below ;  but  it  is  deeper  and  clearer,  and  rushes 
with  a  stronger  current.  The  scenery,  also,  is  more  varied  and 
beautiful.  Sometimes  it  glides  rapidly  but  smoothly  through  a 
picturesque  valley,  between  wooded  banks  ;  then,  forcing  its  way 
into  the  bosom  of  rugged  mountains,  it  rushes   impetuously 


^ '  (3 


TOM  CAIN  THE  COOK. 


55 


through  narrow  defiles,  roaring  r.nd  foaming  down  rocks  and 
rapids,  until  it  is  again  soothed  to  rest  in  some  peaceful  valley. 

On  the  12th  of  July,  Captain  Bonneville  abandoned  the 
iniiin  stream  of  the  Nebraska,  which  was  continually  shouldered 
by  rugged  promontories,  and  making  a  bend  to  the  southwest,  for 
a  couple  of  days,  part  of  the  time  over  plains  of  loose  sand,  en- 
camped on  the  14th,  on  the  banks  of  the  Sweet  Water,  a  stream 
al)out  twenty  yards  in  breadth,  and  four  or  five  feet  deep,  flowing 
between  low  banks  over  a  sandy  soil,  and  forming  one  of  the  forks 
or  upper  branches  of  the  Nebraska.  Up  this  stream  they  now 
shaped  their  course  for  several  successive  days,  tending,  generally, 
to  the  west.  The  soil  was  light  and  sandy  ;  the  country  much 
diversified.  Frequently  the  plains  were  studded  with  isolated 
blocks  of  rock,  sometimes  in  the  shape  of  a  half  globe,  and  from 
three  to  four  hundred  feet  high.  These  singular  masses  had 
occasionally  a  very  imposing,  and  even  sublime  appearance,  rising 
from  the  midst  of  a  savage  and  lonely  landscape. 

As  the  travellers  continued  to  advance,  they  became  more 
and  more  sensible  of  the  elevation  of  the  country.  The  hills 
around  were  more  generally  capped  with  snow.  The  men  com- 
plained of  cramps  and  colics,  sore  lips  and  mouths,  and  violent 
lieadaches.  The  wood-work  of  the  wagons  also  shrank  so  much, 
that  it  was  with  difficulty  the  wheels  were  kept  from  falling  to 
pieces.  The  country  bordering  upon  the  river  was  frequently 
gashed  with  deep  ravines,  or  traversed  by  high  bluiFs,  to  avoid 
which,  the  travellers  were  obliged  to  make  wide  circuits  through 
the  plains.  In  the  course  of  these,  they  came  upon  immense 
herds  of  buffalo,  which  kept  scouring  off  in  the  van,  like  a 
retreating  army. 

Among  the  motley  retainers  of  the  camp  was  Tom  Cain,  a 


56 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


raw  Irishman,  who  officiated  as  cook,  whoso  various  blunders  and 
expedients  in  his  novel  situation,  and  in  the  wild  scenes  and  wild 
kind  of  life  into  which  he  had  suddenly  been  thrown,  had  made 
him  a  kind  of  butt  or  droll  of  the  camp.  Tom,  however,  began 
to  discover  an  ambition  superior  to  his  station  ;  and  the  conversa- 
tion of  the  hunters,  and  their  stories  of  their  exploits,  inspired 
him  with  a  desire  to  elevate  himself  to  the  dignity  of  their  order. 
The  buffalo  in  such  immense  droves  presented  a  temptijig  oppor- 
tunity for  making  his  first  essay.  He  rode,  in  the  line  of  march, 
all  prepared  for  action :  his  powder-flask  and  shot'pouch  know- 
ingly slung  at  the  pommel  of  his  saddle,  to  be  at  hand ;  his  rifle 
balanced  on  his  shoulder.  While  in  this  plight,  a  troop  of  bufialo 
came  trotting  by  iil  great  alarm.  In  an  instant,  Tom  sprang 
from  his  horse  and  gave  chase  on  foot.  Finding  they  were  leav- 
ing him  behind,  he  levelled  his  rifle  and  pulled  trigger.  His 
shot  produced  no  other  effect  than  to  increase  the  speed  of  the 
buffalo,  and  to  frighten  his  own  horse,  who  took  to  his  heels,  and 
scampered  off  with  all  the  ammunition.  Tom  scampered  after 
him,  hallooing  with  might  and  main,  and  the  wild  horse  and  wild 
Irishman  soon  disappeared  among  the  ravines  of  the  prairie. 
Captain  Bonneville,  who  was  at  the  head  of  the  line,  and  had 
seen  the  transaction  at  a  distance,  detached  a  party  in  pursuit  of 
Tom.  After  a  long  interval  they  returned,  leading  the  frightened 
horse ;  but  though  they  had  scoured  the  country,  and  looked  out 
and  shouted  from  every  height,  they  had  seen  nothing  of  his 
rider. 

As  Captain  Bonneville  knew  Tom's  utter  awkwardness  and 
inexperience,  and  the  dangers  of  a  bewildered  Irishman  in  the 
midst  of  a  prairie,  he  halted  and  encamped  at  an  early  hour,  that 
there  might  be  a  regular  hunt  for  him  in  the  morning. 


:H 


TOM'S  RETURN.        #Kf  ; 


At  early  dawn  on  the  following  day  scouts  wore  sent  off  in 
every  direction,  while  the  main  body,  after  breakfast,  proceeded 
xlowly  on  its  course.  It  was  not  until  the  middle  of  the  after- 
noon that  the  hunters  returned,  with  honest  Tom  mounted  be- 
hind  one  of  them.  They  had  found  him  in  a  oompietfl  state  of 
perplexity  anJ  amazement.  Hiu  appearance  caus  (i  tthviuts  of 
merriment  in  the  camp, — but  Tom  for  out.?  ooiJid  not  jci'-i  in  the 
mirth  raised  at  his  expense :  he  was  comploti,  1/  cha|  iiallen,  and 
apparently  cured  of  the  hunting  mania  for  t!jo  rojfc  ( f  bi»  life. 


$• 


58 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


!''# 


^•^li'  !\ 


IH'' 

m 
I 


11  ^ 

ll'   ' 

1 

1 

'if 

1  mk       i 

in 

mt 

ll 

1 

CHAPTER  V. 

Magnificent  scenery. — Wind  River  Mountains. — Treasury  of  waters. — A  stray 
horse. — An  Indian  trail. — Trout  streams. — The  Great  Green  River  valley. 
— An  alarm. — A  band  of  trappers. — Fontenelle,  his  information. — Suffer- 
ings of  thirst. — Encampment  on  the  Seeds-ke-dee. — Strategy  of  rival 
traders. — Fortification  of  the  camp. — The  Blackfeet. — Banditti  of  the 
mountains. — Their  character  and  habits. 

It  was  on  the  20th  of  July,  that  Captain  Bonneville  first  came 
in  sight  of  the  grand  region  of  his  hopes  and  anticipations,  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  He  had  been  making  a  bend  to  the  south, 
to  avoid  some  obstacles  along  the  river,  and  had  attained  a  high, 
rocky  ridge,  when  a  magnificent  prospect  burst  upon  his  sight. 
To  the  west,  rose  the  Wind  River  Mountains,  with  their  bleached 
and  snowy  summits  towering  into  the  clouds.  These  stretched 
far  to  the  north-northwest,  until  they  melted  away  into  what  ap- 
peared to  be  faint  clouds,  but  which  the  experienced  eyes  of  the 
veteran  hunters  of  the  party  recognized  for  the  rugged  moun- 
tains of  the  Yellowstone ;  at  the  feet  of  which,  extended  the 
wild  Crow  country  :  a  perilous,  though  profitable  region  for  the 
trapper. 

To  the  southwest,  the  eye  ranged  over  an  immense  extent  of 
wilderness,  with  what  appeared  to  be  a  snowy  vapor  resting  upon 
its  horizon.     This,  however,  was  pointed  out  as  another  branch 


WIND  RIVER  MOUNTAINS. 


ters. — A  stray 
River  valley, 
tion. — Suffer- 
tegy  of  rival 
nditti   of  the. 


first  came 
lations,  the 

the  south, 
ned  a  high, 
his  sight, 
ir  bleached 
s  stretched 
to  what  ap- 
eycs  of  the 

ged  moun- 
tended  the 

ion  for  the 

e  extent  of 
isting  upon 
ler  branch 


I",  s 


of  the  Great  Chippewyan,  or  Rocky  chain  ;  being  the  Eutaw 
Mountains,  at  whose  basis,  the  wandering  tribe  of  hunters  of  the 
same  name  pitch  their  tents. 

We  can  imagiiie  the  enthusiasm  of  the  worthy  captain,  when 
he  beheld  the  vast  and  mountainous  scene  of  his  adventurous 
enterprise  thus  suddenly  unveiled  before  him.  "We  can  imagine 
with  what  feelings  of  awe  and  admiration  he  must  have  contem- 
plated the  Wind  River  Sierra,  or  bed  of  mountains  ;  that  great 
fountain-head,  from  whose  springs,  and  lakes,  and  melted  snows, 
some  of  those  mighty  rivers  take  their  rise,  which  wander  over 
hundreds  of  miles  of  varied  country  and  clime,  and  find  their 
way  to  the  opposite  waves  of  the  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific. 

The  Wind  River  Mountains  are,  in  fact,  among  the  most  re- 
markable of  the  whole  Rocky  chain  ;  and  would  appear  to  be 
among  the  loftiest.  They  form,  as  it  were,  a  great  bed  of  moun- 
tains, about  eighty  miles  in  length,  and  from  twenty  to.  thirty  in 
breadth ;  with  ruj^^ged  peaks,  covered  with  eternal  snows,  and 
deep,  narrow  valleys,  full  of  springs,  and  brooks,  and  rock-bound 
lakes.  From  this  great  treasury  of  waters,  issue  forth  limpid 
streams,  which,  augmenting  as  they  descend,  become  main  tribu- 
taries, of  the  Missouri  on  the  one  side,  and  the  Columbia  on  the 
other ;  and  give  rise  to  the  Seeds-kc-dee  Agio,  or  Green  River, 
the  great  Colorado  of  the  West,  that  empties  its  current  into  the 
Gulf  of  California. 

The  Wind  River  Mountains  are  notorious  in  hunters'  and 
trappers'  stories :  their  rugged  defiles,  and  the  rough  tracts  about 
their  neighborhood,  having  been  lurking  places  for  the  predatory 
hordes  of  the  mountains,  and  scenes  of  rough  encounter  with 
Crows  and  Blackfeet.  It  was  to  the  west  of  these  mountains, 
in  the  valley  of  the  Seeds-ke-dee  Agie,  or  Green  River,  that  Cap- 


60 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


tain  Bonneville  intended  to  make  a  halt,  for  the  purpose  of  giving 
repose  to  his  people  and  his  horses,  after  their  weary  journeying ; 
and  of  collecting  information  as  to  his  future  course.  This  Green 
River  valley,  and  its  immediate  neighborhood,  as  we  have  al- 
ready observed,  formed  the  main  point  of  rendezvous,  for  the 
present  year,  of  the  rival  fur  companies,  and  the  motley  populace, 
civilized  and  savage,  connected  with  them.  Several  days  of  rug- 
ged travel,  however,  yet  remained  for  the  captain  and  his  men, 
before  they  should  encamp  in  this  desired  resting-place. 

On  the  21st  of  July,  as  they  were  pursuing  their  course 
through  one  of  the  meadows  of  the  Sweet  Water,  they  beheld  a 
horse  grazing  at  a  little  distance.  He  showed  no  alarm  at  their 
approach,  but  suffered  himself  quietly  to  be  taken,  evincing  a 
perfect  state  of  tameness.  The  scouts  of  the  party  were  instantly 
on  the  look-out  for  the  owners  of  this  animal ;  lest  some  danger- 
ous band  of  savages  might  be  lurking  in  the  vicinity.  After  a 
narrow  search,  they  discovered  the  trail  of  an  Indian  party, 
which  had  evidently  passed  through  that  neighborhood  but 
recently.  The  horse  was  accordingly  taken  possession  of,  as  an 
estray ;  but  a  more  vigilant  watch  than  usual  was  kept  round 
the  camp  at  nights,  lest  his  former  owners  should  be  upon  the 
prowl. 

The  travellers  had  now  attained  so  high  an  elevation,  that  on 
the  23d  of  July,  at  daybreak,  there  was  considerable  ice  in  the 
water-buckets,  and  the  thermometer  stood  at  twenty-two  degrees. 
The  rarety  of  the  atmosphere  coutinued  to  affect  the  wood-work 
of  the  wagons,  and  the  wheels  were  incessantly  falling  to  pieces. 
A  remedy  was  at  length  devised.  The  tire  of  each  wheel  was 
taken  off;  a  ban  of  wood  was  nailed  round  the  exterior  of  the 
felloes,  the  tire  was  then  made  red  hot,  replaced  round  the  wheel, 


GREEN  RIVER  VALLEY. 


61 


and  suddenly  cooled  with  water  By  this  means,  the  whole  was 
bound  together  with  great  compactness. 

The  extreme  elevation  of  these  great  steppes,  which  range 
along  the  feet  of  the  Eocky  Mountains,  take  away  from  the  seem- 
ing height  of  their  peaks,  which  yield  to  few  in  the  known  world 
in  point  of  altitude  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

On  the  24th,  the  travellers  took  final  leave  of  the  Sweet  Wa- 
ter, and  keeping  westwardly,  over  a  low  and  very  rocky  ridge, 
one  of  the  most  southern  spurs  of  the  Wind  River  Mountains, 
they  encamped,  after  a  march  of  seven  hours  and  a  half,  on  the 
banks  of  a  small  clear  stream,  running  to  the  south,  in  which 
they  caught  a  number  of  fine  trout. 

The  sight  of  these  fish  was  hailed  with  pleasure,  as  a  sign 
that  they  had  reached  the  waters  which  flow  into  the  Pacific ;  for 
it  is  only  on  the  western  streams  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  that 
trout  are  to  be  taken.  The  stream  on  which  they  had  thus  en- 
camped, proved,  in  effect,  to  be  tributary  to  the  Seeds-ke-dee 
Agie,  or  Green  River,  into  which  it  flowed,  at  some  distance  to 
the  south. 

Captain  Bonneville  now  considered  himself  as  having  fairly 
passed  the  crest  of  the  Rocky  Mountains ;  and  felt  some  degree 
of  exultation  in  being  the  first  individual  that  had  crossed.  >orth 
of  the  settled  provinces  of  Mexico,  from  the  waters  of  the  Atlan- 
tic to  those  of  the  Pacific,  with  wagons.  Mr.  William  Sublette, 
the  enterprising  leader  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company, 
had,  two  or  three  years  previously,  reached  the  valley  of  the 
Wind  River,  which  lies  on  the  northeast  of  the  mountains ;  but 
had  proceeded  with  them  no  further. 

A  vast  valley  now  spread  itself  before  the  travellers,  bounded 
on  one  side  by  the  Wind  River  Mountains,  and  to  the  west,  by  a 


y| 


hi 

i 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


long  range  of  high  hills.  This,  Captain  Bonneville  was  assured 
by  a  veteran  hunter  in  his  company,  was  the  great  valley  of  the 
Seeds-ke-dee ;  and  the  same  informant  would  fain  have  persuaded 
him,  that  a  small  stream,  three  feet  deep,  which  he  came  to  on 
the  25th,  was  that  river.  The  cantain  was  convinced,  however, 
that  the  stream  was  too  insignificant  to  drain  so  wide  a  valley, 
and  the  adjacent  mountains :  he  encamped,  therefore,  at  an  early 
hour,  on  its  borders,  that  he  might  take  the  whole  of  the  next 
day  to  reach  the  main  river  ;  which  he  presumed  to  flow  between 
him  and  the  distant  range  of  western  hills. 

On  the  26th  of  July,  he  commenced  his  march  at  an  early 
hour,  making  directly  across  the  valley,  towards  the  hills  in  the 
west ;  proceeding  at  a.  ^risk  a  rate  as  the  jaded  condition  of  his 
horses  would  permit.  About  eleven  o'clock  in  the  morning,  a 
great  cloud  of  dust  was  descried  in  the  rear,  advancing  directly 
on  the  trail  of  the  party.  The  alarm  was  given  ;  they  all  came 
to  a  halt,  and  held  a  council  of  war.  Some  conjectured  that  the 
band  of  Indians,  whose  trail  they  had  discovered  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  stray  horse,  had  been  lying  in  wait  for  them,  in  some 
secret  fastness  of  the  mountains  ;  and  were  about  to  attack  them 
on  the  open  p\jiin,  where  they  would  have  no  shelter.  Prepara- 
tions were  immediately  made  for  defence ;  and  a  scouting  party 
sent  off  to  reconnoitre.  They  soon  came  galloping  back,  making 
pi^uals  that  all  was  well.  The  cloud  of  dust  was  made  by  a  band 
of  fifty  or  sixt}'  mounted  trappers,  belonging  to  the  American 
Fur  Company,  who  soon  came  up,  leading  their  pack-horses. 
They  were  headed  by  Mr.  Fontenelle,  an  experienced  leader,  or 
"  partisan,"  as  a  chief  of  a  party  is  called,  in  the  technical  lan- 
guage of  the  trappers. 

Mr.  Fontenelle  informed  Captain  Bonneville,  that  he  was  on 


w 


:* 


if 


FOPITENELLE  AND  HIS  PARTY. 


63 


was  assured 
valley  of  the 
ve  persuaded 

came  to  on 
icd,  however, 
de  a  valley, 
!,  at  an  early 
!  of  the  next 
flow  between 

1  at  an  early 
3  hills  in  the 
dition  of  his 
morning,  a 
ling  directly 
ley  all  came 
red  that  the 
he  neighbor- 
em,  in  some 
attack  them 
Prepara- 
uting  party 
ack,  making 
e  by  a  band 
e  American 
)ack-horses. 
d  leader,  or 
shnical  lan- 

t  he  was  on 


his  way  from  the  company's  trading  post  on  the  Yellowstone,  to 
the  yearly  rendezvous,  with  reinforcements  and  supplies  for  their 
hunting  and  trading  parties  beyond  the  mountains  ;  and  that  he 
expected  to  meet,  by  appointment,  with  a  band  of  free  trappers 
in  that  very  neighborhood.  He  had  fallen  upon  the  trail  of 
Captain  Bonneville's  party,  just  after  leaving  the  Nebraska; 
and,  finding  that  they  had  frightened  off  all  the  game,  had  been 
obliged  to  push  on,  by  forced  marches,  to  avoid  famine :  both 
men  and  horses  were,  therefore,  much  travel-worn ;  but  this  was 
no  place  to  halt ;  the  plain  before  them,  he  said,  was  destitute  of 
grass  and  water,  neither  of  which  would  be  met  with  short  of 
the  Green  Kiver,  which  was  yet  at  a  considerable  distance.  He 
hoped,  he  added,  as  his  party  were  all  on  horseback,  to  reach 
the  river,  with  hard  travelling,  by  nightfall :  but  he  doubted  the 
possibility  of  Captain  Bonneville's  arrival  there  with  his  wagons 
before  the  day  following.  Having  imparted  this  information,  he 
pushed  forward  with  all  speed. 

Captain  Bonneville  followed  on  as  fast  as  circumstances 
would  permit.  The  ground  was  firm  and  gravelly ;  but  the 
horses  were  too  much  fatigued  to  move  rapidly.  After  a  long 
and  liarassing  day's  march,  without  pausing  for  a  noontide  meal, 
they  were  compelled,  at  nme  o'clock  at  night,  to  encamp  in  an 
open  plain,  destitute  of  water  or  pasturage.  On  the  following 
morning,  the  horses  were  turned  loose  at  the  peep  of  day ;  to 
slake  their  thirst,  if  possible,  from  the  dew  collected  on  the 
sparse  grass,  here  and  there  springing  up  among  dry  sand-banks. 
The  soil  of  a  great  part  of  this  Grreen  River  valley  is  a  whitish 
clay,  into  which  the  rain  cannot  penetrate,  but  which  dries  and 
cracks  with  the  sun.  In  some  places  it  produces  a  salt  weed, 
and  grass  along  the  margins  of  the  streams;    but  the  wider 


64 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


expanses  of  it  are  deiLiolate  and  barren.  It  was  not  until  noon 
that  Captain  Bonneville  reached  the  banks  of  the  Seeds-ke-dee, 
or  Colorado  of  the  West ;  in  the  meantime,  the  sufferings  of  both 
men  and  horses  had  been  excessive,  and  it  was  with  almost  fran- 
tic eagerness  that  they  hurried  to  allay  their  burning  thirst  in 
the  limpid  current  of  the  river. 

Fontenelle  and  his  party  had  not  fared  much  better:  the 
chief  part  had  managed  to  reach  the  river  by  nightfall,  but  were 
nearly  knocked  up  by  the  exertion ;  the  horses  of  others  sank 
under  them,  and  they  were  obliged  to  pass  the  night  upon  the 
road. 

On  the  following  morning,  July  27th,  Fontenelle  moved  his 
camp  across  the  river ;  while  Captain  Bonneville  proceeded  some 
little  distance  below,  where  there  was  a. small  but  fresh  meadow, 
yielding  abundant  pasturage.  Here  the  poor  jaded  horses  were 
turned  out  to  graze,  and  take  their  rest:  the  weary  journey 
up  the  mountains  had  worn  them  down  in  flesh  and  spirit ;  but 
this  last  march  across  the  thirsty  plain  had  nearly  finished 
them. 

The  captain  had  here  the  first  taste  of  the  boasted  strategy 
of  the  fur  trade.  During  his  brief,  but  social  encampment,  in 
company  with  Fontenelle,  that  experienced  trapper  had  managed 
to  win  over  a  number  of  Delaware  Indians  whom  the  captain 
had  brought  with  him,  by  offering  them  four  hundred  dollars 
each,  for  the  ensuing  autumnal  hunt.  The  captain  was  some- 
what astonished  when  he  saw  these  hunters,  on  whose  services  he 
had  calculated  securely,  suddenly  pack  up  their  traps,  and  go 
over  to  the  rival  camp.  That  he  might  in  some  measure,  how- 
ever, be  even  with  his  competitor,  he  dispatched  two  scouts  to 
look  out  for  the  band  of  free  trappers  who  were  to  meet  Fonte- 


BLACKFEET  INDIANS. 


61 


nelle  in  this  neighborhood,  and  to  endeavor  to  bring  them  to 

his  camp.  ^ 

As  it  would  be  necessary  to  remain  some  time  in  this  neigh- 
borhood, that  both  men  and  horses  might  repose,  and  recruit 
their  strength ;  and  as  it  was  a  region  full  of  danger,  Captain 
Bonneville  proceeded  to  fortify  his  camp  with  breastworks  of  logs 
and  pickets. 

These  precautions  were,  at  that  time,  peculiarly  necessary, 
from  the  bands  of  Blackfeet  Indians  which  were  roving  about  the 
neighborhood.  These  savages  are  the  most  dangerous  banditti 
of  the  mountains,  and  the  inveterate  foe  of  the  trappers.  They 
are  Ishmaelites  of  the  first  order  ;  always  with  weapon  in  hand, 
ready  for  action.  The  young  braves  of  the  tribe,  who  are  desti- 
tute of  property,  go  to  war  for  booty  ;  to  gain  horses,  and  acquire 
the  means  of  setting  up  a  lodge,  supporting  a  family,  and  enti- 
tling themselves  to  a  seat  in  the  public  councils.  The  veteran 
warriors  fight  merely  for  the  love  of  the  thing,  and  the  conse- 
quence which  success  gives  them  among  their  people. 

They  are  capital  horsemen,  and  are  generally  well  mounted 
on  short,  stout  horses,  similar  to  the  prairie  ponies,  to  be  met  with 
at  St.  Louis.  When  on  a  war  party,  however,  they  go  on  foot, 
to  enable  them  to  skulk  through  the  country  with  greater  secrecy ; 
to  keep  in  thickets  and  ravines,  and  use  more  adroit  subterfuges 
and  stratagems.  Their  mode  of  warfare  is  entirely  by  ambush, 
surprise,  and  sudden  assaults  in  the  night  time.  If  they  succeed 
in  causing  a  panic,  they  dash  forward  with  headlong  fury  :  if  the 
enemy  is  on  the  alert,  and  shows  no  signs  of  fear,  they  become 
wary  and  deliberate  in  their  movements. 

Some  of  them  are  armed  in  the  primitive  style,  with  bows 
and  arrows  ;  the  greater  part  have  American  fusees,  made  after 


66 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


i^^H'- 

W  ' 

the  fashion  of  those  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  These  they 
procure  at  the  trading  post  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  on 
Marias  River,  where  they  traffic  their  peltries  for  arms,  ammuni- 
tion, clothing,  and  trinkets.  They  are  extremely  fond  of  spirit- 
uous liquors  and  tobacco  ;  for  which  nuisances  they  are  ready  to 
exchange,  not  merely  their  guns  and  horses,  but  even  their  wives 
and  daughters.  As  they  are  a  treacherous  race,  and  have  cher- 
ished a  lurking  hostility  to  the  whites,  ever  since  one  of  their 
tribe  was  killed  by  Mr.  Lewis,  the  associate  of  General  Clarke, 
in  his  exploring  expedition  across  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the 
American  Fur  Company  is  obliged  constantly  to  keep  at  that 
post  a  garrison  of  sixty  or  seventy  men. 

Under  the  general  name  of  Blackfeet,  are  comprehended 
several  tribes  :  such  as  the  Surcies,  the  Peagans,  the  Blood  In- 
dians, and  the  Gros  Ventres  of  the  Prairies  :  who  roam  about 
the  southern  branches  of  the  Yellowstone  and  Missouri  Rivers, 
together  with  some  other  tribes  further  north. 

The  bands  infesting  the  Wind  River  Mountains,  and  the 
country  adjacent,  at  the  time  of  which  we  are  treating,  were  Gros 
Ventres  of  the  Prairies,  which  are  not  to  be  confounded  with 
Gros  Ventres  of  the  Missouri,  who  keep  about  the  lower  part  of 
that  river,  and  are  friendly  to  the  white  men. 

This  hostile  band  keeps  about  the  head  waters  of  the  Mis- 
souri, and  numbers  about  nine  hundred  fighting  men.  Once  in 
the  course  of  two  or  three  years  they  abandon  their  usual  abodes, 
and  make  a  visit  to  the  Arapahoes  of  the  Arkansas.  Their 
route  lies  either  through  the  Crow  country,  and  the  Black  Hills, 
or  through  the  lands  of  the  Nez  Perccs,  Flatheads,  Bannacks, 
and  Shoshonies.  As  they  enjoy  their  favorite  state  of  hostility 
with  all  these  tribes,  their  expeditions  are  prone  to  be  conducted 


iUi 


BLACKFEET  INDIANS. 


r.7 


in  the  most  lawless  and  predatory  style  ;  nor  do  they  hesitate  to 
extend  their  maraudings  to  any  party  of  white  men  they  meet 
with  ;  following  their  trails  ;  hovering  about  their  camps  ;  iMy- 
laying  and  dogging  the  caravans  of  the  free  traders,  and  murder- 
ing the  solitary  trapper.  The  consequences  arc,  frequent  and 
desperate  fights  between  them  and  the  "  mountaineers,"  in  the 
wild  defiles  and  fastnesses  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

The  band  in  question  was,  at  this  time,  on  their  way  home- 
ward from  one  of  their  customary  visits  to  the  Arapahoes  ;  and 
in  the  ensuing  chapter,  we  shall  treat  of  some  bloody  encounters 
between  them  and  the  trappers,  which  had  taken  place  just  before 
the  arrival  of  Captain  Bonneville  among  the  mountains. 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Sublette  and  his  band. — Robert  Campbell. — Mr.  Wyeth  and  a  band  of 
"  down-eastcrs." — Yankee  enterprise. — Fitzpatrick — his  adventure  with 
the  Blackfeet. — A  rendezvous  of  mountaineers. — The  battle  of  Pierre's 

'     Hole. — An  Indian  Ambuscade. — Sublette's  return. 

Leaving  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  band  ensconced  within  their 
fortified,  camp  in  the  Green  River  valley,  we  shall  step  back  and 
accompany  a  party  oi  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company  in  its 
progress,  with  supplies  from  St.  Louis,  to  the  annual  rendezvous 
at  Pierre's  Hole.  This  party  consisted  of  sixty  men,  well 
mounted,  and  conducting  a  line  of  pack-horses,  They  were  com- 
manded by  Captain  William  Sublette,  a  partner  in  the  company, 
and  one  of  the  most  active,  intrepid,  and  renowned  leaders  in 
this  half  military  kind  of  service.  He  was  accompanied  by  his 
associate  in  business,  and  tried  companion  in  danger,  Mr.  Robert 
Campbell,  one  of  the  pioneers  of  the  trade  beyond  the  mountains, 
who  had  commanded  trapping  parties  there  in  times  of  the 
greatest  peril. 

As  these  worthy  compeers  were  on  their  route  to  the  frontier, 
they  fell  in  with  another  expedition,  likewise  on  its  way  to  the 
mountains.  This  was  a  party  of  regular  "  down-easters,"  that  is 
to  say,  people  of  New  England,  who,  with  the  all-penetrating, 
and  all-pervading  spirit  of  their  race,  were  now  pushing  their 


YANKEE   ENTERPRISE. 


69 


way  into  a  new  field  of  enterprise,  with  which  they  were  totally 
unacquainted.  The  party  had  been  fitted  out,  and  was  main- 
tained and  commanded  by  Mr.  Nathaniel  J.  Wyeth,  of  Boston.* 
This  gentleman  had  conceived  an  idea,  that  a  profitable  fishery 
for  salmon  might  be  establishsd  on  the  Columbia  River,  and  con- 
nected with  the  fur  trade.  He  had,  accordingly,  invested  capital 
in  goods,  calculated,  as  he  supposed,  for  the  Indian  trade,  and 
had  enlisted  a  number  of  eastern  men  in  his  employ,  who  had 
never  been  in  the  Far  West,  nor  knew  any  thing  of  the  wilder- 
ness. With  these,  he  was  bravely  steering  his  way  across  the 
continent,  undismayed  by  danger,  difi&culty,  or  distance,  in  the 
same  way  that  a  New  England  coaster  and  his  neighbors  will 
coolly  launch  forth  on  a  voyage  to  the  Black  Sea,  or  a  whaling 
cruise  to  the  Pacific. 

With  all  their  national  aptitude  at  expedient  and  resource, 
Wycth  and  his  men  felt  themselves  completely  at  a  loss  when 
they  reached  the  frontier,  and  found  that  the  wilderness  required 
experience  and  habitudes,  of  which  they  were  totally  deficient. 
Not  one  of  the  party,  excepting  the  leader,  had  ever  seen  an  In- 
dian or  handled  a  rifle  ;  they  were  without  guide  or  interpreter, 
and  totally  unacquainted  with  "wood  craft,"  and  the  modes  of 
making  their  way  among  savage  hordes,  and  subsisting  them- 
selves, during  long  marches  over  wild  mountains  and  barren 
plains. 

In  this  predicament,  Captain  Sublette  found  them,  in  a  man- 
ner becalmed,  or  rather  run  aground,  at  the  little  frontier  town 
of  Independence,  in  Missouri,  and  kindly  took  them  in  tow. 


*  In  the  former  editions  of  this  work  we  have  erroneously  given  this  enter- 
prising individual  the  title  of  captain. 


70 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


!i 


m 
lit 


iM 


The  two  parties  travelled  amicably  together ;  the  frontier  men  of 
Sublette'a  party  gave  their  Yankee  comrades  some  lessons  in 
hunting,  and  some  insight  into  the  art  and  mystery  of  dealing 
with  the  Indians,  and  they  all  arrived  without  accident  at  the 
upper  branches  of  the  Nebraska  or  Platte  River. 

In  the  course  of  their  march,  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  the  partner  of 
the  company  who  was  resident  at  that  time  beyond  the  mountains, 
came  down  from  the  rendezvous  at  Pierre's  Hole  to  meet  them, 
and  hurry  them  forward.  He  travelled  in  company  with  them 
until  they  reached  the  Sweet  Water ;  then  taking  a  couple  of 
horses,  one  for  the  saddle,  and  the  other  as  a  pack-horse,  he 
started  off  express  for  Pierre's  Hole,  to  make  arrangements 
against  their  arrival,  that  he  might  commence  his  hunting  cam- 
paign before  the  rival  company. 

Fitzpatrick  was  a  hardy  and  experienced  mountaineer,  and 
knew  all  the  passes  and  defiles.  As  he  was  pursuing  his  lonely 
course  up  the  Green  River  valley,  he  descried  several  horsemen 
at  a  distance,  and  came  to  a  halt  to  reconnoitre.  He  supposed 
them  to  be  some  detachment  from  the  rendezvous,  or  a  party  of 
friendly  Indians.  They  perceived  him,  and  sotting  up  the  war- 
whoop,  dashed  forward  at  full  speed :  he  saw  at  once  his  mistake 
and  his  peril — they  were  Blackfeet.  Springing  upon  his  fleetest 
horse,  and  abandoning  the  other  to  the  enemy,  he  made  for  the 
mountains,  and  succeeded  in  escaping  up  one  of  the  most  danger- 
ous defiles.  Here  he  concealed  himself  until  he  thought  the 
Indians  had  gone  off,  when  he  returned  into  the  valley.  He  was 
again  pursued,  lost  his  remaining  horse,  and  only  escaped  by 
scrambling  up  among  the  cliffs.  For  several  days  he  remained 
lurking  among  rocks  and  precipices,  and  almost  famished,  having 
but  one  remaining  charge  in  his  rifle,  which  he  kept  for  self-defence. 


THE  BLACKFEKT  INDIANS. 


71 


In  the  meantiiuo,  Sublette  and  Campbell,  with  their  fellow- 
traveller,  Wyetli,  had  pursued  their  march  unmolested,  and 
arrived  in  the  (jreen  River  valley,  totally  unconscious  that  there 
was  any  lurking  enemy  at  hand.  They  had  encamped  one  night 
on  tiie  banks  of  a  small  stream,  which  came  down  from  the  Wind 
lliver  Mountains,  when  about  midnight,  a  band  of  Indians  burst 
upon  their  camp,  with  horrible  yells  and  whoops,  and  a  discharge 
of  guns  and  arrows.  Happily  no  other  harm  was  done  than 
wounding  one  mule,  and  causing  several  horses  to  break  loose 
from  their  pickets.  The  camp  was  instantly  in  arms  ;  but  the 
Indians  retreated  with  yells  of  exultation,  carrying  off  several  of 
the  horses,  under  covert  of  the  night. 

This  was  somewhat  of  a  disagreeable  foretaste  of  mountain 
life  to  some  of  Wyeth's  band,  accustomed  only  to  the  regular  and 
peaceful  life  of  New  England ;  nor  was  it  altogether  to  the  taste 
of  Captain  Sublette's  men,  who  were  chiefly  Creoles  and  towns- 
men from  St.  Louis.  They  continued  their  march  the  next 
morning,  keeping  scouts  ahead  and  upon  their  flanks,  and  arrived 
without  further  molestation  at  Pierre's  Hole. 

The  first  inquiry  of  Captain  Sublette,  on  reaching  the  rendez- 
vous, was  for  Fitzpatrick.  He  had  not  arrived,  nor  had  any  in- 
telligence been  received  concerning  him.  Great  uneasiness  was 
now  entertained,  lest  he  should  have  fallen  into  the  hands  of  the 
Blackfeet,  who  had  made  the  midn.ight  attack  upon  the  camp.  It 
was  a  matter  of  general  joy,  therefore,  when  he  made  his  appear- 
ance, conducted  by  two  half-breed  Iroquois  hunters.  He  had 
lurked  for  several  days  among  the  mountains,  until  almost 
starved ;  at  length  he  escaped  the  vigilance  of  his  enemies  in 
the  night,  and  was  so  fortunate  as  to  meet  the  two  Iroquois  hunt- 
ers, who,  being  on  horseback,  conveyed  him  without  further  diffi- 


73 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


culty  to  the  rendezvous.  He  arrived  there  so  emaciated,  that  h  ; 
could  scarcely  be  recognized. 

The  valley  called  Pierre's  Hole,  is  about  thirty  miles  in 
length  and  fifteen  in  width,  bounded  to  the  west  and  south  by 
low  and  broken  ridges,  and  overlooked  to  the  east  by  three  lofty 
mountains,  called  the  three  Tetons,  which  domineer  as  landmarks 
over  a  vast  extent  of  country. 

A  fine  stream,  fed  by  rivulets  and  mountain  springs,  pours 
through  the  valley  towards  the  north,  dividing  it  into  nearly 
equal  parts.  The  meadows  on  its  borders  arc  broad  and  exten- 
sive, covered  with  willow  and  cotton-wood  trees,  so  closely  inter- 
locked and  matted  together,  as  to  be  nearly  impassable. 

In  this  valley  was  congregated  the  motley  populace  connected 
with  the  fur  trade.  Here  the  two  rival  companies  had  their  en- 
campments, with  their  retainers  of  all  kinds  :  traders,  trappers, 
hunters,  and  half-breeds,  assembled  from  all  quarters,  awaiting 
their  yearly  supplies,  and  their  orders  to  start  oiF  in  new  direc- 
tions. Here,  also,  the  savage  tribes  connected  with  the  trade,  the 
Nez  Perces  or  Chopunnish  Indians,  and  Flatheads,  had  pitched 
their  lodges  beside  the  streams,  and  with  their  sqi.aws,  awaited 
the  distribution  of  goods  and  finery.  There  was,  moreover,  a 
band  of  fifteen  free  trappers,  commanded  by  a  gallant  leader 
from  Arkansas,  named  Sinclair,  who  held  their  encampment  a 
little  apart  from  the  rest.  Such  was  the  wild  and  heterogeneous 
assemblage,  amounting  to  several  hundred  men,  civilized  and 
savage,  distributed  in  tents  and  lodges  in  the  several  camps. 

The  arrival  of  Captain  Sublette  with  supplies  put  the  Rocky 
Mountain  Fur  Company  in  full  activity.  The  wares  and  mer- 
chandise were  quickly  opened,  and  as  quickly  disposed  of  to 
trappers  and  Indians ;  the  usual  excitement  and  revelry  took 


ENCOUNTER  WITH  THE  BLACKFEET. 


73 


3d,  that  h ; 

miles  in 

south  by 

Jiree  lofty 

landmarks 

igs,  pours 
ito  nearly 
and  exten- 
sely  inter- 

:^ 
J* 

connected 

i  their  en- 

,  trappers, 

I,  awaiting 

lew  direc- 

trade,  the 

id  pitched 

,  awaited 

)reover,  a 

mt  leader 

npment  a 

I'ogeneous 

ized  and 

imps. 

le  Rocky 

and  mer- 

3ed  of  to 

elry  took 


place,  after  which,  all  hands  began  to  disperse  to  their  several 
destinations. 

On  the  17th  of  July,  a  small  brigade  of  fourteen  trappers, 
led  by  Milton  Sublette,  brother  of  the  captain,  set  out  with  the 
intention  of  proceeding  to  the  southwest.  They  were  accompa- 
nied by  Sinclair  and  his  fifteen  free  trappers  ;  Wyeth,  also,  and 
his  New  England  band  of  beaver  hunters  and  salmon  fishers, 
now  dwindled  down  to  eleven,  took  this  opportunity  to  prosecute 
their  cruise  in  the  wilderness,  accompanied  with  such  experi- 
uuoed  pilots.  On  the  first  day,  they  proceeded  about  eight  miles 
to  the  southeast,  and  encamped  for  the  night,  still  in  the  valley 
of  Pierre's  Hole.  On  the  following  morning,  just  as  they  wore 
raising  their  camp,  they  observed  a  long  line  of  people  pouring 
down  a  defile  of  the  mountains.  They  at  first  supposed  them 
to  be  Fontenelle  and  his  party,  whose  arrival  had  been  daily 
expected.  Wyeth,  however,  reconnoitred  them  with  a  spy-glass, 
and  soon  perceived  they  were  Indians.  They  were  divided  into 
two  parties,  forming,  in  the  whole,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty 
persons,  men,  women,  and  children.  Some  were  on  horseback, 
fantastically  painted  and  arrayed,  with  scarlet  blankets  fluttering 
in  the  wind.  The  greater  part,  however,  were  on  foot.  They 
had  perf pived  the  trappers  before  Jiey  were  themselves  discov- 
ered, and  cau^e  down  yelling  and  whooping  into  the  plain.  On 
nearer  approach,  they  were  ascertained  to  be  Blackfeet. 

One  of  the  trappers  of  Sublette's  brigade,  a  half-breed,  named 
Antoine  Godin.  now  mounted  his  horse,  and  rode  forth  as  if  to 
hold  a  conference.  He  was  the  son  of  an  Iroquois  hunter,  who 
had  been  cruelly  murdered  by  the  Blackfeet  at  a  small  stream 
below  the  mountains,  which  still  bears  his  name.  In  company 
with  Antoine  rode  forth  a  Flathead  Indian,  whose  once  powerful 


74 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


1:,''H 


I 


m 


tribe  had  been  completely  broken  down  in  their  wars  with  the 
Biackfeet.  Both  of  them,  therefore,  cherished  the  most  vengeful 
hostility  against  these  marauders  of  the  mountains.  The  Black- 
feet  came  to  a  halt.  One  of  the  chiefs  advanced  singly  and 
unarmed,  bearing  the  pipe  of  peace.  Tliis  overture  was  certainly 
pacific ;  but  Antoine  and  the  Flathead  were  predisposed  to  hos- 
tility, and  pretended  to  consider  it  a  treacherous  movement. 

"  Is  your  piece  charged  ?"  said  Antoine  to  his  red  companion. 

"It  is." 

"  Then  cock  it,  and  follow  me." 

They  met  the  Blackfoot  chief  half  way,  who  extended  his 
hand  in  friendship.     Antohic  grasped  it. 

"  Fire  !"  cried  he. 

The  Flathead  levelled  his  piece,  and  brought  the  Blackfoot 
to  the  ground.  Antoine  snatched  off  his  scarlet  blanket,  which 
was  richly  ornamented,  and  galloped  off  with  it  as  a  trophy  to 
the  camp,  the  bullets  of  the  enemy  whistling  after  him.  The 
Indians  immediately  threw  themselves  into  the  edge  of  a  swamp, 
among  willows  and  cotton-wood  trees,  interwoven  with  vines. 
Here  they  began  to  fortify  themselves ;  the  women  digging  a 
trench,  and  throwing  up  a  breastwork  of  logs  and  branches,  deep 
hid  in  the  bosom  of  the  wood,  while  the  warriors  skirmished  at 
the  edge  to  keep  the  trappers  at  bay. 

The  latter  took  their  station  in  a  ravine  in  front,  whence  they 
kept  up  a  scattering  fire.  As  to  Wyeth,  and  his  little  band  of 
"  down-easters,"  they  were  perfectly  astounded  by  this  second 
specimen  of  life  in  the  wilderness ;  the  men,  being  especially 
unused  to  bush-fighting  and  the  use  of  the  rifle,  were  at  a  loss 
how  to  proceed  Wyeth,  however,  acted  as  a  skilful  commander. 
He  got  all  his  horses  into  camp  and  secured  them  ;  then,  making 


AN  ALARM— A  TURN  OUT. 


76 


I  Blackfoot 
iket,  which 

trophy  to 
lim.  The 
f  a  swamp, 
cith  vines. 

digging  a 
iches,  deep 

inished  at 

hence  they 
e  band  of 
lis  second 
especially 
at.  a  loss 
)mmander. 
en,  making 


4i 


a  breastwork  of  his  packs  of  goods,  he  charged  his  men  to  remain 
in  garrison,  and  not  to  stir  out  of  their  fort.  For  himself,  he 
mingled  with  the  other  leaders,  determint  d  to  take  his  share  in 
the  conflict. 

In  the  meantime,  an  express  had  been  sent  off  to  the  rendez- 
vous for  reinforcements.  Captain  Sublette,  and  his  associate, 
Campbell,  were  at  their  camp  when  the  express  came  galloping 
across  the  plain,  waving  his  cap,  and  giving  the  alarm  ;  "  Black- 
feet  !  Blackfcet !  a  fight  in  the  upper  part  of  the  valley ! — to 
arm.s  !  to  arms  !" 

The  alarm  was  passed  from  camp  to  camp.  It  was  a  common 
cause.  Every  one  turned  out  with  horse  and  rifle.  The  Nez 
Perot's  and  Flatheads  joined.  As  fast  as  horseman  could  arm 
and  mount  he  galloped  off;  the  valley  was  soon  alive  with  white 
men  and  red  men  scouring  at  full  speed. 

Sublette  ordered  his  men  to  keep  to  the  camp,  being  recruits 
from  St.  Louis,  and  unused  to  Indian  warfare.  He  and  his 
friend  Campbell  prepared  for  action.  Throwing  off  their  coats, 
rolling  up  their  sleeves,  and  arming  themselves  with  pistols  and 
rifles,  they  mounted  their  horses  and  dashed  forward  among  the 
first.  As  they  rode  along,  they  made  their  wills  in  soMier-like 
style ;  each  stating  how  his  effects  should  be  disposed  of  in  case 
of  his  death,  and  appointing  the  other  his  executor. 

The  Blaekfeet  warriors  had  supposed  the  brigade  of  Milton 
Sublette  all  the  foe  they  had  to  deal  with,  and  were  astonished 
to  behold  the  whole  valley  suddenly  swarming  with  horsemen, 
galloping  to  the  field  of  action.  They  withdrew  into  their  fort, 
which  was  completely  hid  from  sight  in  the  dark  and  tangled 
wood.  Most  of  their  women  and  children  had  retreated  to  the 
mountains.     The  trappers  now  sallied  forth  and  approached  the 


■Mm 


^i 


w 


iiu 


Hi 


76 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


'    >t 


swamp,  firing  into  the  thickets  at  random  ;  the  Blackfeet  had  a 
better  sight  at  their  adversaries,  who  were  in  the  open  field,  and 
a  half-breed  was  wounded  in  the  sliouider. 

When  Captain  Sublette  arrived,  he  urged  to  penetrate  the 
swamp  and  storm  the  fort,  but  all  hung  back  in  awe  of  the  dismal 
horrors  of  the  place,  and  tl»e  danger  of  attacking  such  despera- 
does in  their  savage  den.  The  very  Indian  allies,  though  accus- 
tomed to  bush-fighting,  regarded  it  as  almost  impenetrable,  and 
full  of  frightful  danger.  Sublette  was  not  to  be  turned  from  his 
purpose,  but  offered  to  lead  the  way  into  the  swamp.  Campbell 
stepped  forward  to  accompany  him.  Before  entering  the  peril- 
ous wood.  Sublette  took  his  brothers  aside,  and  told  them  that 
in  case  he  fell,  Campbell,  who  knew  his  will,  was  to  be  his  execu- 
tor. This  done,  he  grasped  his  rifle  and  pushed  into  the  thickets, 
followed  by  Campbell.  Sinclair,  the  partisan  from  Arkansas, 
was  at  the  edge  of  the  wood  with  his  brother  and  a  few  of  his 
men.  Excited  by  the  gallant  example  of  the  two  friends,  he 
pressed  for'vard  to  share  their  dangers. 

The  swamp  was  produced  by  the  labors  of  the  beaver,  which, 
by  damming  up  a  stream,  had  inundated  a  portion  of  the  valley. 
The  place  was  all  overgrown  with  woods  and  thickets,  so  closely 
matted  and  entangled,  that  it  was  impossible  to  see  ten  paces 
ahead,  and  the  three  associates  in  peril  had  to  crawl  along,  one 
after  another,  making  their  way  by  putting  the  branches  and 
vines  aside  ;  but  doing  it  with  caution,  lest  they  should  attract 
the  eye  of  some  lurking  mai-ksman.  They  took  the  lead  by  turns, 
each  advancing  about  twenty  yards  at  a  time,  and  now  and  then 
hallooing  to  their  men  to  follow.  Some  of  the  latter  gradually 
entered  the  swamp,  and  followed  a  little  distance  in  their  rear. 

They  had  now  reached  a  more  open  part  of  the  wood,  -and 


i 


CROSS-FIRING. 


n 


'cct  had  a 
field,  and 


ctrate  the 

the  dismal 

despera- 

[igh  accus- 

rable,  and 

d  from  his 

Campbell 

the  peril- 

them  that 

his  execu- 

le  thickets, 

Arkansas, 

few  of  his 

riends,  he 


ver,  which, 
the  valley. 
,  so  closely 

ten  paces 
along,  one 
nches  and 
i!d  attract 
i  by  turns, 
V  and  then 

gradually 
their  rear, 
wood,  and 


had  glimpses  of  the  rude  fortress  from  between  the  trees.  It 
was  a  mere  breastwork,  as  we  have  said,  of  logs  and  branches, 
with  blankets,  buffalo  robes,  and  the  leathern  covers  of  lodges, 
extended  round  the  top  as  a  screen.  The  movements  of  the 
leaders,  as  they  groped  their  way,  had  been  descried  by  the 
sharp-sighted  enemy.  As  Sinclair,  who  was  in  the  advance,  was 
putting  some  branches  aside,  he  was  shot  through  the  body.  He 
fell  on  the  spot.  "  Take  me  to  my  brother,"  said  he  to  Camp- 
bell. The  latter  gave  him  in  charge  to  some  of  the  men,  who 
conveyed  him  out  of  the  swamp. 

Sublette  now  took  the  advance.  As  he  was  reconnoitring 
the  fort,  he  perceived  an  Indian  peeping  through  an  aperture. 
In  an  instant  his  rifle  was  levelled  and  discharged,  and  the  ball 
struck  the  savage  in  the  eye.  While  he  was  reloading,  he  called 
to  Campbell,  and  pointed  out  to  him  the  hole ;  "  Watch  that 
place,"  said  he,  "  and  you  will  soon  have  a  fair  chance  for  a  shot." 
Scarce  had  he  uttered  the  words,  when  a  ball  struck  him  in  the 
shoulder,  and  almost  wheeled  him  round.  His  first  thought  was 
to  take  hold  of  his  arm  with  his  other  hand,  and  move  it  up  and 
down.  He  ascertained,  to  his  satisfaction,  that  the  bone  was  not 
broken.  The  next  moment  he  was  so  faint  that  he  could  not 
stand.  Campbell  took  him  in  his  arms  and  carried  him  out  of 
the  thicket.  The  same  shot  that  struck  Sublette,  wounded  an- 
other man  in  the  head. 

A  brisk  fire  was  now  opened  by  the  mountaineers  from  the 
wood,  answered  occasionally  from  the  fort.  Unluckily,  the  trap- 
pers and  their  allies,  in  searching  for  the  fort,  had  got  scattered, 
so  that  Wyeth,  and  a  number  of  Nez  Perces,  approached  the 
fort  on  the  northwest  side,  while  others  did  the  same  on  the 
opposite  quarter.     A  cross-fire  thus  took  place,  which  occasion- 


^ 


i'  -1! 


)..ii 


r  ,i, 


78 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES, 


ally  did  mischief  to  friends  as  well  as  foes.  An  Indian  was  shot 
down,  close  to  Wyeth,  by  a  ball  which,  he  was  convinced,  had 
been  sped  from  the  rifle  of  a  trapper  on  the  other  side  of  the 
fort. 

The  number  of  whites  and  their  Indian  allies,  had  by  this 
time  so  much  increased  by  arrivals  from  the  rendezvous,  that  the 
Blackfeet  were  completely  overmatched.  They  kept  doggedly  in 
their  fort,  however,  making  no  ofier  of  surrender.  An  occasional 
firing  into  the  breastwork  was  kept  up  during  the  day.  Now 
and  then,  one  of  the  Indian  allies,  in  bravado,  would  rush  up  to 
the  fort,  fire  over  the  ramparts,  tear  ofl"  a  buflfalo  robe  or  a  scar- 
let blanket,  and  return  with  it  in  triumph  to  his  comrades.  Most 
of  the  savage  garrison  that  fell,  however,  were  killed  in  the  first 
part  of  the  attack. 

At  one  time  it  was  resolved  to  set  fire  to  the  fort ;  and  the 
squaws  belonging  to  the  allies  were  employed  to  collect  combus- 
tibles. This,  however,  was  abandoned ;  the  Ncz  Perces  being 
unwilling  to  destroy  the  robes  and  blankets,  and  other  spoils  of 
the  enemy,  which  they  felt  sure  would  fall  into  their  hands. 

The  Indians,  when  fighting,  are  prone  to  taunt  and  revile 
each  other.  During  one  of  the  pauses  of  the  battle,  the  voice  of 
the  Blackfeet  chief  was  heard. 

"  So  long,"  said  he,  "  as  we  had  powder  and  ball,  we  fought 
you  in  the  open  field :  when  those  were  spent,  we  retreated  here 
to  die  with  our  women  and  children.  You  ri)->y  burn  us  in  our 
fort ;  but,  stay  by  our  ashes,  and  you  who  are  so  hungry  for  fight- 
ing, will  soon  have  enough.  There  are  four  hundred  lodges  of 
our  brethren  at  hand.  They  will  soon  be  here — their  arms  are 
strong — their  hearts  are  big — they  will  avenge  us  !" 

This  speech  was  translated  two  or  three  times  by  Nez  Perec 


I ' 


KILLED  AND  WOUNDED. 


79 


and  Creole  interpreters.  By  the  time  it  was  rendered  into  En- 
glish, the  chief  was  made  to  say,  that  four  hundred  lodges  of  his 
tribe  were  attacking  the  encampment  at  the  other  end  of  the 
valley.  Every  one  now  was  for  hurrying  to  the  defence  of  the 
rendezvous.  A  party  was  left  to  keep  watch  upon  the  fort ;  the 
rest  galloped  oflf  to  the  camp.  As  night  came  on,  the  trappers 
drew  out  of  the  swamp,  and  remained  about  the  skirts  of  the 
wood.  By  morning,  their  companions  returned  from  the  rendez- 
vous, with  the  report  that  all  was  safe.  As  the  day  opened,  they 
ventured  within  the  swamp  and  approached  the  fort.  All  was 
silent.  They  advanced  up  to  it  without  opposition.  They  en- 
tered :  it  had  been  abandoned  in  the  night,  and  the  Blackfeet 
had  effected  their  retreat,  carrying  off  their  wounded  on  litters 
made  of  branches,  leaving  bloody  traces  on  the  herbage.  The 
bodies  of  ten  Indians  were  found  within  the  fort ;  among  them 
the  one  shot  in  the  eye  by  Sublette.  The  Blackfeet  afterwards 
reported  that  they  had  lost  twenty-six  warriors  in  this  battle. 
Thirty-two  horses  were  likewise  found  killed  ;  among  them  were 
some  of  those  recently  carried  off  from  Sublette's  party,  in  the 
night ;  which  showed  that  these  were  the  very  savages  that  had 
attacked  him.  They  proved  to  be  an  advance  party  of  the  main 
body  of  Blackfeet,  which  had  been  upon  t'^c  trail  of  Sublotte's 
party.  Five  white  men  and  one  half-breed  were  killed,  and  several 
wounded.  Seven  of  the  Nez  Percys  were  also  killed,  and  sis. 
wounded.  They  had  an  old  chief,  who  was  reputed  as  invulner- 
able. In  the  course  of  the  action  he  was  hit  by  a  spent  ball, 
and  threw  up  blood  ;  but  his  skin  was  unbroken.  His  people  were 
now  fully  convinced  that  he  was  proof  against  powder  and  ball. 
A  striking  circumstance  is  related  as  having  occurred  the 
morning  after  the  battle.     As  some  ot  the  trappers  and  their  In- 


11 


ji> 


80 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES, 


h  i 


si  I'' 


dian  allies  wore  upproaching  the  fort,  through  the  woods,  thoy 
beheld  an  Indian  woman,  of  noble  form  and  features,  leaning 
against  a  tree.  Their  surprise  at  her  lingering  here  alone,  to  fall 
into  the  hands  of  her  enemies,  was  dispelled,  when  they  saw  the 
corpse  of  a  warrior  at  her  feet.  Either  she  w^as  so  lost  in  grief. 
as  not  to  perceive  their  approach ;  or  a  proud  spirit  kept  her 
silent  and  motionless.  The  Indians  set  up  a  yell,  on  discovering 
her,  and  before  the  trappers  could  interfere,  her  mangled  body 
fell  upon  the  corpse  which  she  had  refused  to  abandon.  We 
have  heard  this  anecdote  discredited  by  one  of  the  leaders  who 
had  been  in  tlie  battle  :  but  the  fact  may  have  taken  place  with- 
out his  seeing  it,  and  been  concealed  from  him.  It  is  an  instance 
of  female  devotion,  even  to  the  death,  which  we  arc  well  disposed 
to  believe  and  to  record. 

After  the  battle,  the  brigade  of  Milton  Sublette,  together 
with  the  free  trappers,  and  Wyeth's  New  England  band,  re- 
mained some  days  at  the  rendezvous,  to  see  if  the  main  body 
of  Blaekfeet  intended  to  make  an  attack ;  nothing  of  the  kind 
occurring,  they  once  more  put  themselves  in  motion,  and  pro- 
ceeded on  their  route  towards  the  southwest. 

Captain  Sublette  having  distributed  his  supplies,  had  intended 
to  set  off  on  his  return  to  St.  Louis,  taking  with  him  the  peltries 
collected  from  the  trappers  and  Indians.  His  wound,  however, 
obliged  him  to  postpone  his  departure.  Several  who  were  to 
Lave  accompanied  him,  became  impatient  of  this  delay.  Among 
these  was  a  young  Bostonian,  Mr.  Joseph  More,  one  of  the  fol- 
lowers of  Mr.  Wyeth,  who  had  seen  enough  of  mountain  life  and 
savage  warfare,  and  was  eager  to  return  to  the  abodes  of  civiliza- 
tion. He  and  six  others,  among  whom  were  a  Mr.  Foy,  of  Mis- 
sissippi, Mr.  Alfred  K,  Stephens,  of  St.  Louis,  and  two  grand- 


*  »j 


SUBLKTTE'S  CARAVAN. 


81 


(voods,  thoy 
OS,  leaning 
louo,  to  fall 
ey  saw  the 
t  in  grief, 
t  kept  her 
iscovering 
gletl  body 
don.     We 
aders  who 
)lace  with- 
n  instance 
1  disposed 

together 
band,  re- 
lain  body 

the  kind 
and  pro- 
intended 
e  peltries 
however, 

were  to 

Among 
'  the  fol- 
1  life  and 
'  civiliza- 
,  of  Mis- 
)  grand- 


sons of  the  celebrated  Daniel  Boon,  set  out  together,  in  advance 
of  Sublette's  party,  thinking  they  would  make  their  own  way 
tlirough  the  mountains. 

It  was  just  five  days  after  the  battle  of  the  swamp,  that  these 
seven  companions  were  making  their  way  through  Jackson's  Hole, 
a  valley  not  far  from  the  three  Tetons,  when,  as  they  were  de- 
scending a  hill,  a  party  of  Blackfeet  that  lay  in  ambush,  started 
up  with  terrific  yells.  The  horse  of  the  young  Bostonian,  who 
was  in  front,  wheeled  round  with  affright,  and  threw  his  unskilful 
ridor.  The  young  man  scrambled  up  the  side  of  the  hill,  but, 
unaccustomed  to  such  wild  scenes,  lost  his  presence  of  mind,  and 
stood,  as  if  paralyzed,  on  the  edge  of  a  bank,  until  the  Blackfeet 
came  up  and  slew  him  on  the  spot.  His  comrades  had  fled  on 
the  first  alarm ;  but  two  of  them,  Foy  and  Stephens,  seeing  his 
danger,  paused  when  they  had  got  half  way  up  the  hill,  turned 
back,  dismounted,  and  hastened  to  his  assistance.  Foy  was 
instantly  killed.  Stephens  was  severely  wounded,  but  escaped, 
to  die  five  days  afterwards.  The  survivors  returned  to  the  camp 
of  Captain  Sublette,  bringing  tidings  of  this  new  disaster.  That 
hardy  leader,  as  soon  as  he  could  bear  the  journey,  set  out  on  his 
return  to  St.  Louis,  accompanied  by  Campbell.  As  they  had  a 
number  of  pack-horses  richly  laden  with  peltries  to  convoy,  they 
chose  a  different  route  through  the  mountains,  out  of  the  way, 
as  they  hoped,  of  the  lurking  bands  of  Blackfeet.  They  suc- 
ceeded in  making  the  frontier  in  safety.  We  remember  to  have 
seen  them  with  their  band,  about  two  or  three  months  afterwards, 
passing  through  a  skirt  of  woodland  in  the  upper  part  of  Mis- 
souri. Their  long  cavalcade  stretched  in  single  file  for  nearly 
half  a  mile.  Sublette  still  wore  his  arm  in  a  sling.  The  moun- 
taineers in  their  rude  hunting  dresses,  armed  with  rifles,  and 


i 

<  - 


n 


[■■ 


83 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


roughly  mounted,  and  leading  their  pack-bornes  down  a  hill  of  the 
forest,  looked  like  banditti  returning  with  plunder.  On  the  top 
of  some  of  the  packs  were  perched  several  half-breed  children, 
perfect  littlo  imps,  with  wild  black  eyes  glaring  from  among  elf 
locks.  These,  I  was  told,  were  children  of  the  trappers  :  pledges 
of  love  from  their  squaw  spouses  in  the  wilderness. 


RETREAT  OF  THE  BLACKFEET. 


t'w- 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Retreat  of  the  Blackfeet. — Fontenelle's  camp  in  danger. — Captain  Bonneville 
and  the  Blackfeet. — Free  trappers — their  character,  habits,  dress,  equip- 
ments, horses, — Game  fellows  of  the  mountains — their  visit  to  the  camp. — 
Good  fellowship  and  good  cheer. — A  carouse. — A  swagger,  a  brawl,  and  a 
reconciliation. 


The  Blackfeet  warriors,  when  they  effected  their  midnight  retreat 
from  their  wild  fastness  in  Pierre's  Hole,  fell  back  into  the  valley 
of  the  Seeds-ke-dee,  or  Green  River,  where  they  joined  the  main 
body  of  their  band.  The  whole  force  amounted  to  several  hun- 
dred fighting  men,  gloomy  and  exasperated  by  their  late  disaster. 
They  had  with  them  their  wives  and  children,  which  incapacitated 
them  for  any  bold  and  extensive  enterprise  of  a  warlike  nature ; 
but  when,  in  the  course  of  their  wanderings,  they  came  in  sight 
of  the  encampment  of  Fontenelle,  who  had  moved  some  distance 
up  Green  River  valley  in  search  of  the  free  trappers,  they  put 
up  tremendous  war-cries,  and  advanced  fiercely  as  if  to  attack  it. 
Second  thoughts  caused  them  to  moderate  their  fury.  They 
recollected  the  severe  lesson  just  received,  and  could  not  but 
remark  the  strength  of  Fontenelle's  position  j  which  had  been 
chosen  with  great  judgment. 

A  formal  talk  ensued.      The  Blackfeet  said  nothing  of  the 
late  battle,  of  which  Fontenelle  had  as  yet  received  no  accounts  ; 


v:. 


^ 

^  ^ 

V^,^^" 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


■^121   125 


Ifj  1^ 


■  2.2 
IS   1^    12.0 


I; 
I 


||l.25  ||U   III  1.6 

^ 

6"     

► 

fliotographic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


iV 


^ 


•>^ 


\ 


\ 


4 


23  WIST  MAIN  STRUT 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  UStO 

(716)872-4S03 


^o 


^ 


^ 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


^1 


\^ 


".:?' 


the  latter,  however,  knew  the  hostile  and  perfidious  nature  of 
these  savages,  and  took  care  to  inform  them  of  the  encampment 
of  Captain  Bonneville,  that  they  might  know  there  were  more 
white  men  in  the  neighborhood. 

The  conference  ended,  Fontenelle  sent  a  Delaware  Indian  of 
his  party  to  conduct  fifteen  of  the  Blackfeet  to  the  camp  of  Cap- 
tain Bonneville.  There  was  at  that  time  two  Crow  Indians  in 
the  captain's  camp,  who  had  recently  arrived  there.  They  looked 
with  dismay  at  this  deputation  from  their  implacable  enemies, 
and  gave  the  captain  a  terrible  character  of  them,  assuring  him 
that  the  best  thing  he  could  possibly  do,  was  to  put  those  Black- 
feet  deputies  to  death  on  the  spot.  The  captain,  however,  who 
had  heard  nothing  of  the  conflict  at  Pierre's  Hole,  declined  all 
compliance  with  this  sage  counsel.  He  treated  the  grim  warriors 
with  his  usual  urbanity.  They  passed  some  little  time  at  the 
camp ;  saw,  no  doubt,  that  every  thing  was  conducted  with  mili- 
tary skil]  and  vigilance  ;  and  that  such  an  enemy  was  not  to  be 
easily  surprised,  nor  to  bo  molested  with  impunity,  and  then  de- 
parted, to  report  all  that  they  had  seen  to  their  comrades. 

The  two  scouts  which  Captain  Bonneville  had  sent  out  to  seek 
for  the  band  of  free  trappers,  expected  by  Fontenelle,  and  to 
invite  them  to  his  camp,  had  been  successful  in  their  search,  and 
on  the  12th  of  August  those  worthies  made  their  appearance. 

To  explain  the  meaning  of  the  appellation,  free  trapper,  it  is 
necessary  to  state  the  terms  on  which  the  meu  enlist  in  the  ser- 
vice of  the  fur  companies.  Some  have  regular  wages,  and  are 
furnished  with  weapons,  horses,  traps,  and  other  requisites. 
These  are  under  command,  and  bound  to  do  every  duty  required 
of  them  connected  with  the  service ;  such  as  hunting,  trapping, 
loading  and  unloading  the  horses,  mounting  guard ;   and,  in 


THE  TRAPPERS. 


85 


It 


short,  all  the  drudgery  of  the  camp.  These  are  the  hired 
trappers. 

The  free  trappers  are  a  more  independent  class ;  and  in  de- 
scribing them,  we  shall  do  little  more  than  transcribe  the  graphic 
description  of  them  by  Captain  Bonneville.  "  They  come  and 
go,"  says  he,  "  when  and  where  they  please ;  provide  their  own 
horses,  arms,  and  other  equipments ;  trap  and  trade  on  their  own 
account,  and  dispose  of  their  skins  and  peltries  to  the  highest 
bidder.  Sometimes,  in  a  dangerous  hunting  ground,  they  attach 
themselves  to  the  camp  of  some  trader  for  protection.  Here 
they  come  under  some  restrictions ;  they  have  to  oonform  to  the 
ordinary  rules  for  trapping,  and  to  submit  to  such  restraints,  and 
to  take  part  in  such  general  duties,  as  are  established  for  the 
good  order  and  safety  of  the  camp.  In  return  for  this  protection, 
and  for  their  camp  keeping,  they  are  bound  to  (Kspose  of  all  the 
beaver  they  take,  to  the  trader  who  commands  the  camp,  at  a 
certain  rate  per  skin ;  or,  should  they  prefer  seeking  a  market 
elsewhere,  they  are  to  make  him  an  allowance,  of  from  thirty  to 
forty  dollars  for  the  whole  hunt." 

There  is  an  inferior  order,  who,  either  from  prudence  or 
poverty,  come  to  these  dangerous  hunting  grounds  without  horses 
or  accoutrements,  and  are  furnished  by  the  traders.  These,  like 
the  hired  trappers,  are  bound  to  exert  themselves  to  the  utmost 
in  taking  beaver,  which,  without  skinning,  they  render  in  at  the 
trader's  lodge,  where  a  stipulated  price  for  each  is  placed  to  their 
credit.  These,  though  generally  included  in  the  generic  name 
of  free  trappers,  have  the  more  specific  title  of  skin  trappers. 

The  wandering  whites  who  mingle  for-  any  length  of  time 
with  the  savages,  have  invariably  a  proneness  to  adopt  savage 
habitudes ;  but  none  more  so  than  the  free  trappers.     It  is  a 


86 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


# 


matter  of  vanity  and  ambition  with  them  to  discard  every  thing 
that  may  bear  the  stamp  of  civilized  life,  and  to  adopt  the  man- 
ners, habits,  dress,  gesture,  and  even  walk  of  the  Indian.  You 
cannot  pay  a  free  trapper  a  greater  compliment,  than  to  persuade 
him  you  have  mistaken  him  for  an  Indian  brave ;  and,  in  truth, 
the  counterfeit  is  complete.  His  hair,  suffered  to  attain  to  a 
great  length,  is  carefully  combed  out,  and  either  left  to  fall  care- 
lessly over  his  shoulders,  or  plaited  neatly  and  tied  up  in  otter 
skins,  or  parti-colored  ribands.  A  hunting-shirt  of  ruffled  calico 
of  bright  dyes,  or  of  ornamented  leather,  falls  to  his  knee ;  below 
which,  curiously  fashioned  leggins,  ornamented  with  strings, 
fringes,  and  a  profusion  of  hawks'  bells,  reach  to  a  costly  pair  of 
moccasons  of  the  finest  Indian  fabric,  richly  embroidered  with 
beads.  A  blanket  of*  scarlet,  or  some  other  bright  color,  hangs 
from  his  shoulders,  and  is  girt  round  his  waist  with  a  red  sash, 
in  which  he  bestows  his  pistols,  knife,  and  the  stem  of  his  Indian 
pipe ;  preparations  either  for  peace  or  war.  His  gun  is  lavishly 
decorated  with  brass  tacks  and  vermilion,  and  provided  with  a 
fringed  cover,  occasionally  of  buckskin,  ornamented  here  and 
there  with  a  feather.  His  horse,  the  noble  minister  to  the  pride, 
pleasure,  and  profit  of  the  mountaineer,  is  selected  for  his  speed 
and  spirit,  and  prancing  gait,  and  holds  a  place  in  his  estimation 
second  only  to  himself  He  shares  largely  of  his  bounty,  and  of 
his  pride  and  pomp  of  trapping.  He  is  caparisoned  in  the  most 
dashing  and  fantastic  style ;  the  bridles  and  crupper  are  weightily 
embossed  with  beads  and  cockades ;  and  head,  mane,  and  tail, 
are  interwoven  with  abundance  of  eagles'  plumes,  which  flutter 
in  the  wind.  To  complete  this  grotesque  equipment,  the  proud 
animal  is  bestreaked  and  bespotted  with  vermilion,  or  with  white 
clay,  whichever  presents  the  most  glaring  contrast  to  his  real  color. 


VISIT  OF  THE  FREE  TRAPPERS. 


87 


Sttch  is  the  account  given  by  Captain  Bonneville  of  these 
rangers  of  the  wilderness,  and  their  appearance  at  the  camp  was 
strikingly  characteristic.  They  came  dashing  forward  at  full 
speed,  firing  their  fusees,  and  yelling  in  Indian  style.  Their 
dark  sunburnt  faces,  and  long  flowing  hair,  their  leggins,  flaps, 
moccasons,  and  richly-dyed  blankets,  and  their  painte'd  horses 
gaudily  caparisoned,  gave  them  so  much  the  air  and  appear- 
ance of  Indians,  that  it  was  difficult  to  persuade  one's  self  that 
they  were  white  men,  and  had  been  brought  up  in  civilized  life. 

Captain  Bonneville,  who  was  delighted  with  the  game  look  of 
these  cavaliers  of  the  mountains,  welcomed  them  heartily  to  his 
camp,  and  ordered  a  free  allowance  of  grog  to  regale  them,  which 
soon  put  them  in  the  most  braggart  spirits.  They  pronounced 
the  captain  the  finest  fellow  in  the  world,  and  his  men  all  bons 
^arfOTM,  jovial  lads,  and  swor')  they  would  pass  the  day  with  them. 
They  did  so ;  and  a  day  it  was,  of  boast,  and  swagger,  and  rodo- 
montade. The  prime  bullies  and  braves  among  the  free  trappers 
had  each  his  circle  of  novices,  from  among  the  captain's  band ; 
mere  greenhorns,  men  unused  to  Indian  life  ;  mangeurs  de  lard^ 
or  pork-eaters ;  as  such  new-comers  are  superciliously  called  by 
the  veterans  of  the  wilderness.  These  he  would  astonish  and 
delight  by  the  hour,  with  prodigious  tales  of  his  doings  among 
the  Indians ;  and  of  the  wonders  he  had  seen,  and  the  wonders 
he  had  performed,  in  his  adventurous  peregrinations  among  the 
mountains. 

In  the  evening,  the  free  trappers  drew  off,  and  returned  to 
the  camp  of  Fontenelle,  highly  delighted  with  their  visit  and 
with  their  new  acquaintances,  and  promising  to  return  the  follow- 
ing day.  They  kept  their  word :  day  after  day  their  visits  were 
repeated;   they  became  "hail  fellow  well  met"   with   Captain 


88 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


I 


Bonneville's  men ;  treat  after  treat  succeeded,  until  both  parties 
got  most  potently  convinced,  or  rather  confounded,  by  liquor. 
Now  came  on  confusion  and  uproar.  The  free  trappers  were  no 
longer  suffered  to  have  all  the  swagger  to  themselves.  The  camp 
bullies  and  prime  trappers  of  the  party  began  to  ruffle  up,  and 
to  brag,  in  turn,  of  their  perils  and  achievements.  Each  now 
tried  to  out-boast  and  out-talk  the  other ;  a  quarrel  ensued  as  a 
matter  of  course,  and  a  general  fight,  according  to  frontier  usage. 
The  two  factions  drew  out  their  forces  for  a  pitched  battle.  They 
fell  to  work  and  belabored  each  other  with  might  and  main; 
kicks  and  cuffs  and  dry  blows  were  as  well  bestowed  as  they  were 
well  merited,  until,  having  fought  to  their  hearts'  content,  and 
been  drubbed  into  a  familiar  acquaintance  with  each  other's 
prowess  and  good  (Qualities,  they  ended  the  fight  by  becoming 
firmer  friends  than  they  could  have  been  rendered  by  a  year's 
peaceable  companionship.     ^  *.  . 

While  Captain  Bonneville  amused  himself  by  observing  the 
habits  and  characteristics  of  this  singular  class  of  men ;  and 
indulged  them,  for  the  time,  in  all  their  vagaries,  he  profited  by 
the  opportunity  to  collect  from  them  information  concerning  the 
different  parts  of  the  country  about  which  they  had  been  accus- 
tomed to  range ;  the  characters  of  the  tribes,  and,  in  short,  every 
thing  important  to  his  enterprise.  He  also  succeeded  in  securing 
the  services  of  several  to  guide  and  aid  him  in  his  peregrinations 
among  the  mountains,  and  to  trap  for  him  during  the  ensuing 
season.  Having  strengthened  his  party  with  such  valuable 
recruits,  he  felt  in  some  measure  consoled  for  the  loss  of  the 
Delaware  Indians,  decoyed  from  him  by  Mr.  Fontenelle. 


, 


SALMON  RIVER. 


>m- 


W^    -'"  '   0 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Plans  for  the  winter. — Salmon  River. — Abundance  of  salmon  west  of  the 
mountains. — New  arrangements. — Caches. — Cerr^'s  detachment. — Move- 
ments in  Fontenelle's  camp. — Departure  of  the  Blackfeet — their  fortunes — 
Wind  Mountain  streams. — Buckeye,  the  Delaware  hunter,  and  the  grizzly 
bear. — Bones  of  murdered  travellers. — Visit  to  Pierre's  Hole. — Traces  of 
the  battle. — Nez  Perc^  Indians. — Arrival  at  Salmon  River. 


The  information  derived  from  the  free  trappers  determined  Cap- 
tain Bonneville  as  to  his  further  movements.  He  learnt  that  in 
the  Green  River  valley  the  winters  were  severe,  the  snow  fre"- 
quently  falling  to  the  depth  of  several  feet ;  and  that  there  was 
no  good  wintering  ground  in  the  neighborhood.  The  upper  part 
of  Salmon  River  was  represented  as  far  more  eligible,  besides 
being  in  an  excellent  beaver  country ;  and  thither  the  captain 
resolved  to  bend  his  course. 

The  Salmon  River  is  one  of  the  upper  branches  of  the  Oregon 
or  Columbia ;  and  takes  its  rise  from  various  sources,  among  a 
group  of  mountains  to  the  northwest  of  the  Wind  River  chain. 
It  owes  its  name  to  the  immense  shoals  of  salmon  which  ascend 
it  in  the  months  of  September  and  October.  The  salmon  on  the 
west  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  are,  like  the  buffalo  on  the 
eastern  plains,  vast  migratory  supplies  for  the  wants  of  man,  that 
come  and  go  with  the  seasons.     As  the  buffalo  in  countless 


v'T^" 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


.  throngs  find  their  certain  way  in  the  transient  pasturage  on  the 
prairies,  along  the  fresh  banks  of  the  rivers,  and  up  every  valley 
and  green  defile  of  the  mountains,  so  the  salmon,  at  their  allotted 
seasons,  regulated  by  a  sublime  and  all'seeing  Providence,  swarm 
in  myriads  up  the  great  rivers,  and  find  their  way  up  their  main 
branches,  and  into  the  minutest  tributary  streams ;  so  as  to  per- 
vade the  great  arid  plains,  and  to  penetrate  even  among  barren 
mountains.  Thus  wandering  tribes  are  fed  in  the  desert  places 
of  the  wilderness,  where  there  is  no  herbage  for  the  animals  of 
the  chase,  and  where,  but  for  these  periodical  supplies,  it  would 
be  impossible  for  man  to  subsist. 

The  rapid  currents  of  the  rivers  which  run  into  the  Pacific 
render  the  ascent  of  tjiem  very  exhausting  to  the  salmon.  When 
the  fish  first  run  up  the  rivers,  they  arc  fat  and  in  fine  order. 
The  struggle  against  impetuous  streams  and  frequent  rapids 
gradually  renders  them  thin  and  weak,  and  great  numbers  are 

■m,  seen  floating  down  the  rivers  on  their  backs.  As  the  season 
advances  and  the  water  becomes  chilled,  they  are  flung  in  myri- 
ads on  the  shores,  where  the  wolves  and  bears  assemble  to  ban- 
quet on  them.  Often  they  rot  in  such  quantities  along  the  river 
banks,  as  to  taint  the  atmosphere.  They  are  commonly  from  two 
to  three  feet  long. 

Captain  Bonneville  now  made  his  arrangements  for  the 
autumn  and  the  winter.  The  nature  of  the  country  through 
which  he  was  about  to  travel  rendered  it  impossible  to  proceed 
with  wagons.  He  had  more  goods  and  supplies  of  various  kinds, 
also,  than  were  required  for  present  purposes,  or  than  could  be 
conveniently  transported  on  horseback;  aided,  therefore,  by  a 
few  confidential  men,  he  made  caches,  or  secret  pits,  during  the 
night,  when  all  the  rest  of  the  camp  were  asleep,  and  in  these 


MATTHIEU'S  COMPANY. 


91 


deposited  the  superfluous  effects,  together  with  the  wagons.  All 
traces  of  the  caches  were  then  carefully  obliterated.  This  is  a 
common  expedient  with  the  traders  and  trappers  of  the  moun- 
tains. Having  no  established  posts  and  magazines,  they  make 
these  caches  or  deposits  at  certain  points,  whither  they  repair, 
occasionally,  for  supplies.  It  is  an  expedient  derived  from  the 
wandering  tribes  of  Indians. 

Many  of  the  horses  were  still  so  weak  and  lame,  as  to  be  unfit ' 
for  a  long  scramble  through  the  mountains.  These  were  collected 
into  one  cavalcade,  and  given  in  charge  to  an  experienced  trapper, 
of  the  name  of  Matthieu.  He  was  to  proceed  westward,  with  a 
brigade  of  trappers,  to  Bear  River ;  a  stream  to  tlie  west  of  the 
Green  River  or  Colorado,  where  there  was  good  pasturage  for  the 
horses.  In  this  neighborhood  it  was  expected  he  would  meet  the 
Shoshonie  villages  or  bands,*  on  their  yearly  migrations,  with 
whom  he  was  to  trade  for  peltries  and  provisions.  After  he  had 
traded  with  these  people,  finished  his  trapping,  and  recruited  the 
strength  of  the  horses,  he  was  to  proceed  to  Salmon  River  and 
rejoin  Captain  Bonneville,  who  intended  to  fix  his  quarters  there 
for  the  winter.  .  • 

While  these  arrangements  were  in  progress  in  the  camp  of 
Captain  Bonneville,  there  was  a  sudden  bustle  and  stir  in  the 
camp  of  Fontenelle.  One  of  the  partners  of  the  American 
Fur  Company  had  arrived,  in  all  haste,  from  the  rendezvous  at 


I  ; 


*  A  village  of  Indians,  in  trappers'  language,  does  not  always  imply  a 
fixed  community ;  but  often  a  wandering  horde  or  band.  The  Shoshonies, 
like  most  of  the  mountain  tribes,  have  no  settled  residences ;  but  are  a  nomadic 
people,  dwelling  in  tents  or  lodges,  and  shifting  their  encampments  from  place 
to  place,  according  as  fish  and  game  abound. 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


\ 


Pierre  s  Hole,  in  quest  of  the  supplies.  The  competition  between 
the  two  rival  companies  was  just  now  at  its  height,  and  prose- 
cuted with  unusual  zeal.  The  tramontane  concerns  of  the  Rocky 
Mountain  Fur  Company  were  managed  by  two  resident  partners, 
Fitzpatrick  and  Bridger ;  those  of  the  American  Fur  Company, 
by  Vanderburgh  and  Dripps.  The  latter  were  ignorant  of  the 
mountain  regions,  but  trusted  to  make  up  by  vigilance  and  ac- 
tivity for  their  want  of  knowledge  of  the  country. 

Fitzpatrick,  an  experienced  trader  and  trapper,  knew  the 
evils  of  competition  in  the  same  hunting  grounds,  and  had  pro- 
posed that  the  two  companies  should  divide  the  country,  so  as  to 
hunt  in  different  directions  :  this  proposition  being  rejected,  he 
had  exerted  himself  to  get  first  into  the  field.  His  exertions,  as 
has  already  been  shown,  were  effectual.  The  early  arrival  of 
Sublette,  with  supplies,  had  enabled  the  various  brigades  of  the 
Rocky  Mountain  Company  to  start  off  to  their  respective  hunt- 
ing grounds.  Fitzpatrick  himself,  with  his  associate,  Bridger, 
had  pushed  off  with  a  strong  party  of  trappers,  for  a  prime 
beaver  country  to  the  north-northwest. 

This  had  put  Vanderburgh  upon  his  mettle.  He  had  has- 
tened on  to  meet  Fontenelle.  Finding  him  at  his  camp  in  Green 
River  valley,  he  immediately  furnished  himself  with  the  supplies ; 
put  himself  at  the  head  of  the  free  trappers  and  Delawares,  and 
set  off  with  all  speed,  determined  to  follow  hard  upon  the  heels 
of  Fitspatrick  and  Bridger.  Of  the  adventures  of  these  parties 
among  the  mountains,  and  the  disastrous  effects  of  their  compe- 
tition, we  shall  have  occasion  to  treat  in  a  future  chapter. 

Fontenelle  having  now  delivered  his  supplies  and  accom- 
plished his  errand,  struck  his  tents  and  set  off  on  his  return  to 
the  Yellowstone.     Captain  Bonneville  and  his  band,  therefore, 


DECAMPMENT.— MOUNTAIN  STREAMS. 


remained  alone  in  the  Green  River  valley ;  and  their  situation 
might  have  been  perilous,  had  the  Blaokfect  band  still  lingered  in 
the  vicinity.  Those  marauders,  however,  had  been  dismayed  at 
finding  so  many  resolute  and  well-appointed  parties  of  white  men  in 
this  neighborhood.  They  had,  therefore,  abandoned  this  part  of 
the  country,  passing  over  the  head  waters  of  the  Green  River,  and 
bending  their  course  towards  the  Yellowstone.  Misfortune  pur- 
sued them.  Their  route  lay  through  the  country  of  their  deadly 
enemies,  the  Crows.  In  the  Wind  River  valley,  which  lies  east 
of  the  mountains,  they  were  encountered  by  a  powerful  war  party 
of  that  tribe,  and  completely  put  to  rout.  Forty  of  them  were 
killed,  many  of  their  women  and  children  captured,  and  the  scat- 
tered fugitives  hunted  like  wild  beasts,  until  they  were  com- 
pletely chased  out  of  the  Crow  country. 

On  the  22d  of  August  Captain  Bonneville  broke  up  his  camp, 
and  set  out  on  his  route  for  Salmon  River.  His  baggage  was 
arranged  in  packs,  three  to  a  mule,  or  pack-horse  ;  one  being  dis- 
posed on  each  side  of  the  animal,  and  one  on  the  top ;  the  three 
forming  a  load  of  from  one  hundred  and  eighty  to  two  hundred 
and  twenty  pounds.  This  is  the  trappers'  style  of  loading  their 
pack-horses ;  his  men,  however,  were  inexpert  at  adjusting  the 
packs ;  which  were  prone  to  get  loose  and  slip  off;  so  that  it  was 
necessary  to  keep  a  rear-guard  to  assist  in  reloading.  A  few 
days'  experience,  however,  brought  them  into  proper  training. 

Their  march  lay  up  the  valley  of  the  Seeds-ke-dee,  overlooked 
to  the  right  by  the  lofty  peaks  of  the  Wind  River  Mountains. 
From  bright  little  lakes  and  fountain-heads  of  this  remarkable 
bed  of  mountains,  poured  forth  the  tributary  streams  of  the 
Seeds-ke-dee.  Some  came  rushing  down  gullies  and  ravines ; 
others  tumbling  in  crystal  cascades  from  inaccessible  clefts  and 


,^ 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


'  ^ 


rooks,  and  others  winding  their  way  in  rapid  and  pellucid  cur- 
rents across  the  valley,  to  throw  themselves  into  the  main  river. 
So  transparent  were  these  waters,  that  the  trout  with  which  they 
abounded,  could  be  seen  gliding  about  as  if  in  the  air  ;  and  their 
pebbly  beds  were  distinctly  visible  at  the  depth  of  many  feet. 
This  beautiful  and  diaphanous  quality  of  the  Rocky  Mountain 
streams,  prevails  for  a  long  time  after  they  have  mingled  their 
waters  and  swollen  into  important  rivers. 

Issuing  from  the  upper  part  of  the  valley.  Captain  Bonneville 
continued  to  the  east-northeast,  across  rough  and  lofty  ridges,  and 
deep  rocky  defiles,  extremely  fatiguing  both  to  man  and  horse. 
Among  his  hunters  was  a  Delaware  Indian  who  had  remained 
faithful  to  him.  His  name  was  Buckeye.  He  had  often  prided 
himself  on  his  skill  and  success  in  coping  with  the  grizzly  bear, 
that  terror  of  the  hunters.  Though  crippled  in  the  left  arm,  he 
declared  he  had  no  hesitation  to  close  with  a  wounded  bear,  and 
attack  him  with  a  sword.  If  armed  with  a  rifle,  he  was  willing 
to  brave  the  animal  when  in  full  force  and  fury.  He  had  twice 
an  opportunity  of  proving  his  prowess,  in  the  course  of  this 
mountain  journey,  and  was  each  time  successful.  His  mode  was 
to  seat  himself  upon  the  ground,  with  his  rifle  cocked  and  resting 
on  his  lame  arm.  Thus  prepared,  he  would  await  the  approach 
of  the  bear  with  perfect  coolness,  nor  pull  trigger  until  he  was 
close  at  hand.  In  each  instance,  he  laid  the  monster  dead  upon 
the  spot. 

A  march  of  three  or  four  days,  through  savage  and  lonely 
scenes,  brought  Captain  Bonneville  to  the  fatal  defile  of  Jackson's 
Hole,  where  poor  More  and  Foy  had  been  surprised  and  mur- 
dered by  the  Blackfeet.  The  feelings  of  the  captain  were  shock- 
ed at  beholding  the  bones  of  these  unfortunate  young  men 


BATTLE  GROUND  OF  PIERRE'S  HOLE. 


95 


II 


bleaching  among  the  rocks  ;  and  ho  caused  them  to  bo  decently 
interred. 

On  the  3d  of  September  he  arrived  on  the  summit  of  a  moun- 
tain which  commanded  a  full  view  of  the  eventful  valley  of 
Pierre's  Hole  ;  whence  ho  could  trace  the  winding  of  its  streams 
through  green  meadows,  and  forests  of  willow  and  cotton-wood, 
and  have  a  prospect,  between  distant  mountains,  of  the  lava 
plains  of  Snake  River,  dimly  spread  forth  like  a  sleeping  ocean 
below. 

After  enjoying  this  magnificent  prospect,  he  descended  into 
the  valley,  and  visited  the  scenes  of  the  late  desperate  conflict. 
There  were  the  remains  of  the  rude  fortress  in  the  swamp,  shat- 
tered by  rifle  shot,  and  strewed  with  the  mingled  bones  of  sav- 
ages and  horses.  There  was  the  late  populous  and  noisy  rendez- 
vous, with  the  traces  of  trappers'  camps  and  Indian  lodges  ;  but 
their  fires  were  extinguished,  the  motley  assemblage  of  trappers 
and  hunters,  white  traders  and  Indian  braves,  had  all  dispersed 
to  different  points  of  the  wilderness,  and  the  valley  had  relapsed 
into  its  pristine  solitude  and  silence. 

That  night  the  captain  encamped  upon  the  battle  ground ;  the 
next  day  he  resumed  his  toilsome  peregrinations  through  the  moun- 
tains. For  upwards  of  two  weeks  he  continued  his  painful  march ; 
both  men  and  horses  suffering  excessively  at  times  from  hunger 
and  thirst.  At  length,  on  the  19th  of  September,  he  reached  the 
upper  waters  of  Salmon  River. 

The  weather  was  cold,  and  there  were  symptoms  of  an  impend- 
ing storm.     The  night  set  in,  but  Buckeye,  the  Delaware  Indian, 
was  missing.      He  had  left  the  party  early  in  the  morning,  t' 
hunt  by  himself,  according  to  his  custom.     Fears  were  entertainea 
lest  he  should  lose  his  way  and  become  bewildered  in  tempestuous 


96 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


weather.  These  fears  increased  on  the  following  morning,  when 
a  violent  snow-storm  came  on,  which  soon  covered  the  earth  to 
the  depth  of  several  inches.  Captain  Bonneville  immediately 
encamped,  and  sent  out  scouts  in  every  direction.  After  some 
search  Buckeye  was  discovered,  quietly  seated  at  a  considerable 
distance  in  the  rear,  waiting  the  expected  approach  of  the  party, 
not  knowing  that  they  had  passed,  the  snow  having  covered 
their  trail. 

On  the  ensuing  morning  they  resumed  their  march  at  an 
early  hour,  but  had  not  proceeded  far  when  the  hunters,  who 
were  beating  up  the  country  in  the  advance,  came  galloping  back, 
making  signals  to  encamp,  and  crying  Indians  !  Indians  ! 

Captain  Bonneville  immediately  struck  into  a  skirt  of  wood 
and  prepared  for  action.  The  savages  were  now  seen  trooping 
over  the  hills  in  great  numbers.  One  of  them  left  the  main  body 
and  came  forward  singly,  making  signals  of  peace.  He  an- 
nounced them  as  a  band  of  Nez  Perces*  or  Pierced-nose  Indians, 
friendly  to  the  whites,  whereupon  an  invitation  was  returned  by 
Captain  Bonneville,  for  them  to  come  and  encamp  with  him. 
They  halted  for  a  short  time  to  make  their  toilette,  an  operation 
as  important  with  an  Indian  warrior  as  with  a  fashionable  beauty. 
This  done,  they  arranged  themselves  in  martial  style,  the  chiefs 
leading  the  van,  the  braves  following  in  a  long  line,  painted  and 
decorated,  and  topped  off  with  fluttering  plumes.  In  this  way 
they  advanced,  shouting  and  singing,  firing  off  their  fusees,  and 


•  We  should  observe  that  this  tribe  is  universally  called  by  its  French 
name,  which  is  pronounced  by  the  trappers,  Nepercy.  There  are  two  main 
branches  of  this  tribe,  the  upper  Nepercys  and  the  lower  Nepercys,  as  we  shall 
show  hereafter. 


DETACHMENT  OF  CERRfe, 


97 


clashing  their  shields.  The  two  parties  encamped  hard  by  each 
other.  The  Nez  Perces  were  on  a  hunting  expedition,  but  had 
been  almost  famished  on  their  march.  They  had  no  provisions 
left  but  a  few  dried  salmon,  yet  finding  the  white  men  equally  in 
want,  they  generously  oflFered  to  share  even  this  meager  pittance, 
and  frequently  repeated  the  offer,  with  an  earnestness  that  left  no 
doubt  of  their  sincerity.  Their  generosity  won  the  heart  of  Cap- 
tain Bonneville,  and  produced  the  most  cordial  good  will  on  the 
part  of  his  men.  For  two  days  that  the  parties  remained  in  com- 
pany, the  most  amicable  intercourse  prevailed,  and  they  parted 
the  best  of  friends.  Captain  Bonneville  detached  a  few  men, 
under  Mr.  Cerre,  an  able  leader,  to  accompany  the  Nez  Percys 
on  their  hunting  expedition,  and  to  trade  with  them  for  meat  for 
the  winter's  supply.  After  this,  ho  proceeded  down  the  river, 
about  five  miles  below  the  forks,  when  he  came  to  a  halt  on  the 
26th  of  September,  to  establish  his  winter  quarters. 


98 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


CHAPTER  rX. 


I 


Horses  turned  loose, — Prcpnnitiona  for  winter  qr.nrters. — Hungry  timeg. — Nez 
Perc<5s,  their  honesty,  piety,  pacific  habits,  religious  ceremonies. — Captain 
Bonneville's  conversations  with  them. — Their  love  of  gambling 

It  was  gratifying  to  Captain  Bonneville,  after  so  long  and  toil- 
some a  course  of  tratel,  to  relieve  liis  poor  jaded  horses  of  the 
burdens  under  which  they  were  almost  ready  to  give  out,  and  to 
behold  them  rolling  upon  the  grass,  and  taking  a  long  repose 
after  all  their  sufferings.  Indeed,  so  exhausted  were  they,  that 
those  employed  under  the  saddle  were  no  longer  capable  of  hunt- 
ing for  the  daily  subsistence  of  the  camp. 

All  hands  now  set  to  work  to  prepare  a  winter  cantonment. 
A  temporary  fortification  was  thrown  up  for  the  protection  of  the 
party  ;  a  secure  and  comfortable  pen,  into  which  the  horses  could 
be  driven  at  night ;  and  huts  were  built  for  the  reception  of  the 
merchandise. 

This  done.  Captain  Bonneville  made  a  distribution  of  his 
forces :  twenty  men  were  to  remain  with  him  in  garrison  to  pro- 
tect the  property ;  the  rest  were  organized  into  three  brigades, 
and  sent  off  in  different  directions,  to  subsist  themselves  by  hunt- 
ing the  buffalo,  until  the  snow  should  become  too  deep. 

Indeed,  it  would  have  been  impossible  to  provide  for  the 


f 


HUNGER  IN  THE  CAMP. 


89 


t 
■t 


whole  party  in  this  neighborliood.  It  was  at  the  extreme  western 
limit  of  tiie  buffalo  range,  and  these  animals  had  recently  been 
L')niidotely  hunted  out  of  the  neighborhood  by  the  Nez  Perces, 
so  tliat,  although  the  hunters  of  the  garrison  were  continually 
on  the  alert,  ranging  the  country  nmnd,  they  brought  in  scarce 
game  sufficient  to  keep  famine  from  the  door.  Now  and  then 
there  was  a  scanty  meal  of  fish  or  wild-fowl,  occasionally  an  an- 
telope ;  but  frequently  the  cravings  of  hunger  had  to  be  appeased 
with  roots,  or  the  flesh  of  wolves  and  muskrats.  llarely  could 
the  inmates  of  the  cantonment  boast  of  having  made  a  full  meal, 
and  never  of  having  wherewitlial  for  the  morrow.  In  this  way 
they  starved  along  until  the  8th  of  October,  when  they  were 
joined  by  a  party  of  five  families  of  Nez  Perci's,  who  in  some 
measure  reconciled  them  to  the  hardships  of  their  situation,  by 
exhibiting  a  lot  still  more  destitute.  A  more  forlorn  set  they 
had  never  encountered  :  they  had  not  a  morsel  of  meat  or  fish  ; 
nor  any  thing  to  subsist  on,  excepting  roots,  wild  rosebuds,  the 
barks  of  certain  plants,  and  other  vegetable  productions  ;  neither 
had  they  any  weapon  for  hunting  or  defence,  excepting  an  old 
spear  :  yet  the  poor  fellows  made  no  murmur  nor  complaint ;  but 
.seemed  accustomed  to  their  hard  fare.  If  they  could  not  teach 
the  white  men  their  practical  stoicism,  they  at  least  made  them 
acquainted  with  the  edible  properties  of  roots  and  wild  rosebuds, 
and  furnished  them  a  supply  from  their  own  store.  The  neces- 
sities of  the  camp  at  length  became  so  urgent,  that  Captain 
Bonneville  determined  to  dispatch  a  party  to  the  Horse  Prairie, 
a  plain  to  the  north  of  his  cantonment,  to  procure  a  supply  of 
provisions.  When  the  men  were  about  to  depart,  he  proposed  to 
the  Nez  Perces  that  they,  or  some  of  them,  should  join  the  hunt- 


I 


i 


100 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTORES. 


I 


ing-party.  To  his  surprise,  they  promptly  declined.  He  inquired 
the  reason  for  their  refusal,  seeing  that  they  were  in  nearly  as 
starving  a  situation  as  his  own  people.  They  replied  that  it  was 
a  sacred  day  with  them,  and  the  Great  Spirit  would  be  angry 
should  they  devote  it  to  hunting.  They  offered,  however,  to  ac- 
company the  party  if  it  would  delay  its  departure  until  the  fol- 
lowing day  ;  but  this  the  pinching  demands  of  hunger  would  not 
permit,  and  the  detachment  proceeded. 

A  few  days  afterwards,  four  of  them  signified  to  Captain 
Bonneville  that  they  were  about  to  hunt.  "  What !"  exclaimed 
he,  "  without  guns  or  arrows  ;  and  with  only  one  old  spear  ? 
What  do  you  expect  to  kill  ?"  They  smiled  among  themselves, 
but  made  no  answer.  Preparatory  to  the  chase,  they  performed 
some  religious  rites,  and  offered  up  to  the  Great  Spirit  a  few 
short  prayers  for  safety  and  success  ;  then,  having  received  the 
blessings  of  their  wives,  they  leaped  upon  their  liorscs  and  de- 
parted, leaving  the  whole  party  of  Christian  spectators  amazed 
and  rebuked  by  this  lesson  of  taith  and  dependence  on  a  supreme 
and  benevolent  Being.  "  Accustomed,"  adds  Captain  Bonneville, 
"  as  I  had  heretofore  been,  to  find  the  wretched  Indian  revelling 
in  blood,  and  stained  by  every  vice  which  can  degrade  human 
nature,  I  could  scarcely  realize  the  scene  which  I  had  witnessed. 
Wonder  at  such  unaffected  tenderness  and  piety,  where  it  was 
least  to  have  been  sought,  contended  in  all  our  bosoms  with 
shame  and  confusion,  at  receiving  such  pure  and  wholesome  in- 
structions from  creatures  so  far  below  us  in  all  the  arts  and  com- 
forts of  life."  The  simple  prayers  of  the  poor  Indians  were  not 
unheard.  In  the  course  of  four  or  five  days  they  returned,  laden 
with  meat.     Captain  Bonneville  was  curious  to  know  how  they 


1 1 


PIETY  OF  THE  NEZ  PERCES. 


101 


had  attained  such  success  with  such  scanty  means.  They  gave 
him  to  understand  that  they  had  chased  the  herds  of  buffalo  at 
full  speed,  until  they  tired  them  down,  when  they  easily  dispatched 
thciii  with  the  spear,  and  made  use  of  the  same  weapon  to  flay 
the  carcasses.  To  carry  through  their  lesson  to  their  Christian 
friends,  the  poor  savages  were  as  charitable  as  they  had  been 
pious,  and  generously  shared  with  them  the  spoils  of  their  hunt- 
ing ;  giving  them  food  enough  to  last  for  several  days. 

A  further  and  more  intimate  intercourse  with  this  tribe,  gave 
Captain  Bonneville  still  greater  cause  to  admire  their  strong  de- 
votional feeling.  "  Simply  to  call  these  people  religious,"  says 
he,  '•  would  convey  but  a  faint  idea  of  the  deep  hue  of  piety  and 
devotion  which  pervades  their  whole  conduct.  Their  honesty  is 
immaculate,  and  their  purity  of  purpose,  and  their  observance  of 
the  rites  of  their  religion,  are  most  uniform  and  remarkable. 
They  arc,  certainly,  more  like  a  nation  of  saints  than  a  horde  of 


savages. 


In  fact,  the  antibelligerent  policy  of  this  tribe  may  have 
sprung  from  the  doctrines  of  Christian  charity,  for  it  would  ap- 
pear that  they  had  imbibed  some  notions  of  the  Christian  faith 
from  Catholic  missionaries  and  traders  who  had  been  among 
them.  They  even  had  a  rude  calendar  of  the  fasts  and  festivals 
of  the  Romish  Church,  and  some  traces  of  its  ceremonials.  These 
have  become  blended  with  their  own  wild  rites,  and  present  a 
strange  medley ;  civilized  and  barbarous.  On  the  Sabbath,  men, 
women,  and  children  array  themselves  in  their  best  style,  and 
assemble  round  a  pole  erected  at  the  head  of  the  camp.  Here 
they  go  through  a  wild  fantastic  ceremonial ;  strongly  resembling 
the  religious  dance  of  the  Shaking  Quakers  ;  but  from  its  enthu- 


102 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


siasm,  much  more  striking  and  impressive.  During  the  intervals 
of  the  ceremony,  the  principal  chiefs,  who  officiate  as  priests,  in- 
struct them  in  their  duties,  and  exhort  them  to  virtue  and  good 
deeds. 

"  There  is  something  antique  and  patriarchal,"  observes  Cap- 
tain Bonneville,  "  in  this  union  of  the  offices  of  leader  and  priest ; 
as  there  is  in  many  of  their  customs  and  manners,  which  are  all 
strongly  imbued  with  religion." 

The  worthy  captain,  indeed,  appears  to  have  been  strongly 
interested  by  this  gleam  of  unlocked  for  light  amidst  the  dark- 
ness of  the  wilderness.  He  exerted  himself,  during  his  sojourn 
among  this  simple  and  well-disposed  people,  to  inculcate,  as  far 
as  he  was  able,  the  gentle  and  humanizing  precepts  of  the  Chris- 
tian faith,  and  to  make  them  acquainted  with  the  leading  points 
of  its  history ;  and  it  speaks  highly  for  the  purity  and  benig- 
nity of  his  heart,  that  he  derived  unmixed  happiness  from  the 
task. 

"  Many  a  time,"  says  he,  "  was  my  little  lodge  thronged,  or 
rather  piled  with  hearers,  for  they  lay  on  the  ground,  one  leaning 
over  the  other,  until  there  was  no  further  room,  all  listening  with 
greedy  ears  to  the  wonders  which  the  Great  Spirit  had  revealed 
to  the  white  man.  No  other  subject  gave  them  half  the  satisfac- 
tion, or  commanded  half  the  attention  ;  and  but  few  scenes  in 
my  life  remain  so  freshly  on  my  memory,  or  are  so  pleasurably 
recalled  to  my  contemplation,  as  these  hours  of  intercourse  with 
a  distant  and  benighted  race  in  the  midst  of  the  desert." 

The  only  excesses  indulged  in  by  this  temperate  and  exem- 
plary people,  appear  to  be  gambling  and  horseracing.  In  these 
they  engage  with  an  eagerness   that  amounts   to  infatuation. 


THEIR  LOVE  OF  GAMBLING. 


to» 


Knots  of  gamblers  will  assemble  before  one  of  their  lodge  fires, 
early  in  the  evening,  and  remain  absorbed  in  the  chances  and 
changes  of  the  game  until  long  after  dawn  of  the  following  day. 
As  the  night  advances,  they  wax  warmer  and  warmer.  Bets  in- 
crease in  amount,  one  loss  only  serves  to  lead  to  a  greater,  until 
in  the  course  of  a  single  night's  gambling,  the  richest  chief  may 
become  the  poorest  varlet  in  the  camp. 


t 


104 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


CHAPTER  X. 

Blackfeet  in  the  Horse  Prairie. — Search  after  the  hunterB. — Difficulties  and 
dangers. — A  card  party  in  the  wilderness. — The  card  party  interrupted. — 
"  Old  Sledge"  a  losing  game. — Visitors  to  the  camp. — Iroquois  hunters. — 
Hanging-eared  Indians. 


On  the  12th  of  Octo)t)er,  two  young  Indians  of  the  Nez  Perce 
tribe  arrived  at  Captain  Bonneville's  encampment.  They  were 
on  their  way  homeward,  but  had  been  obliged  to  swerve  from 
their  ordinary  route  through  the  mountains,  by  deep  snows. 
Their  new  route  took  them  through  the  Horse  Prairie.  In  tra- 
versing it,  they  had  been  attracted  by  the  distant  smoke  of  a 
camp  fire,  and,  on  stealing  near  to  reconnoitre,  had  discovered  a 
war  party  of  Blackfeet.  They  had  several  horses  with  them ; 
and,  as  they  generally  go  on  foot  on  warlike  excursions,  it  was 
concluded  that  these  horses  had  been  captured  in  the  course  of 
their  maraudings. 

This  intelligence  awakened  solicitude  on  the  mind  of  Captain 
Bonneville,  for  the  party  of  hunters  whom  he  had  sent  to  that 
neighborhood ;  and  the  Nez  Perces,  when  informed  of  the  cir- 
cumstance, shook  their  heads,  and  declared  their  belief  that  the 
horses  they  had  seen  had  been  stolen  from  that  very  party. 

Anxious  for  information  on  the  subject.  Captain  Bonneville 
dispatched  two  hunters  to  beat  up  the  country  in  that  direction. 


SCOUTING  PARTY. 


105 


Tlicy  searched  in  vain  ;  not  a  trace  of  the  men  could  be  found  ; 
but  they  got  into  a  region  destitute  of  game,  where  they  were 
well-nigh  famished.  At  one  time,  they  were  three  entire  days 
without  a  mouthful  of  food ;  at  length  they  beheld  a  buffalo 
grazing  at  the  foot  of  a  mountain.  After  manoeuvring  so  as  to 
get  within  shot,  they  fired,  but  merely  wounded  him.  He  took 
to  flight,  and  they  followed  him  over  hill  and  dale,  with  the 
cagorness  and  perseverance  of  starving  men.  A  more  lucky  shot 
brought  him  to  the  ground.  Stanfield  sprang  upon  him,  plunged 
hi.s  knife  into  his  throat,  and  allayed  his  raging  hunger  by  drink- 
ing his  blood.  A  fire  was  instantly  kindled  beside  the  carcass, 
when  the  two  hunters  cooked,  and  ate  again  and  again,  until,  per- 
fectly gorged,  they  sank  to  sleep  before  their  hunting  fire.  On 
tlie  following  morning  they  rose  early,  made  another  hearty  meal, 
then  loading  themselves  with  buflFalo  meat,  set  out  on  their  return 
to  the  camp,  to  report  the  fruitlessness  of  their  mission. 

At  length,  after  six  weeks'  absence,  the  hunters  made  their 
appearance,  and  were  received  with  joy,  proportioned  to  the 
anxiety  that  had  been  felt  on  their  account.  They  had  hunted 
with  success  on  the  prairie,  but,  while  busy  drying  bufiialo  meat, 
were  joined  by  a  few  panic-stricken  Flatheads,  who  informed  them 
that  a  powerful  band  of  Blackfeet  were  at  hand.  The  hunters 
iiimicdiately  abandoned  the  dangerous  hunting  ground,  and  ac- 
companied the  Flatheads  to  their  village.  Here  they  found  Mr. 
Cerre,  and  the  detachment  of  hunters  sent  with  him  to  accompany 
the  hunting  party  of  the  Nez  Perces. 

After  remaining  some  time  at  the  village,  until  they  supposed 
the  Blackfeet  to  have  left  the  neighborhood,  they  set  off  with 
some  of  Mr.  Cerre's  men,  for  the  cantonment  at  Salmon  River, 
where  they  arrived  without  accident.     They  informed  Captain 


*   I 


•.-"  ■.«»> 


IM 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


h 


i 


Bonnovillo,  however,  that  not  far  from  his  quarters,  they  had 
found  a  wallet  of  fresh  meat  and  a  cord,  which  they  suj)posed  had 
been  left  by  some  prowling  Ulackfeet.  A  few  days  afterwards, 
Mr.  Cerrr,  with  the  remainder  of  his  men,  likewise  arrived  at 
the  cantonment. 

Mr.  AValkcr,  one  of  the  subleaders,  who  had  gone  with  a  band 
of  twenty  hunters,  to  range  the  country  just  beyond  the  Horse 
Prairie,  had,  likewise,  his  share  of  adventures  with  the  all-per- 
vading Blackfeet.  At  one  of  his  encampments,  the  guard  sta- 
tioned to  keep  watch  round  the  camp  grew  weary  of  their  duty, 
and  feeling  a  little  too  secure,  and  too  much  at  homo  on  these 
prairies,  retired  to  a  small  grove  of  willows,  to  amuse  themselves 
with  a  social  game  df  cards,  called  "old  sledge,"  which  is  as 
popular  among  these  trampers  of  the  prairies,  as  whist  or  ecart6 
among  the  polite  circles  of  the  cities.  From  the  midst  of  their 
sport,  they  were  suddenly  roused  by  a  discharge  of  firearms,  and 
a  shrill  war-whoop.  Starting  on  their  feet,  and  snatching  up 
their  rifles,  they  beheld  in  dismay  their  horses  and  mules  already 
in  possession  of  the  enemy,  who  had  stolen  upon  the  camp  unper- 
ceived,  while  they  were  spell-bound  by  the  magic  of  old  sledge. 
The  Indians  sprang  upon  the  animals  barebacked,  and  endeavored 
to  urge  them  oflF  under  a  galling  fire,  that  did  some  execution. 
The  mules,  however,  confounded  by  the  hurly-burly,  and  disliking 
their  new  riders,  kicked  up  their  heels  and  dismounted  half  of 
them,  in  spite  of  their  horsemanship.  This  threw  the  rest  into 
confusion ;  they  endeavored  to  protect  their  unhorsed  comrades 
from  the  furious  assaults  of  the  whites ;  but,  after  a  scene  of 
"  confusion  worse  confounded,"  horses  and  mules  were  abandoned, 
and  the  Indians  betook  themselves  to  the  bushes.  Here  they 
quickly  scratched  holes  in  the  earth,  about  two  feet  deep,  in 


HANGING-EARED  INDIANS. 


107 


m 


which  thoy  prostrated  themselves,  and  while  thus  screened  from 
the  shots  of  the  white  men,  were  enabled  to  make  such  use  of 
their  bows  and  arrows,  and  fusees,  as  to  repulse  their  assailants, 
and  to  effect  their  retreat.  This  adventure  threw  a  temporary 
stigma  upon  the  game  of  "  old  sledge." 

In  the  course  of  the  autumn,  four  Iroquois  hunters,  driven 
by  the  snow  from  their  hunting  grounds,  made  their  appearance 
at  the  cantonment.  They  were  kindly  welcomed,  and  during 
their  sojourn  made  themselves  useful  in  a  variety  of  ways,  being 
excellent  trappers,  and  first-rate  woodsmen.  They  were  of  the 
remnants  of  a  party  of  Iroquois  hunters,  that  came  from  Canada 
into  these  mountain  regions  many  years  previously,  in  the  em- 
ploy of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  They  were  led  by  a  brave 
chieftain,  named  Pierre,  who  fell  by  the  hands  of  the  Blackfeet, 
and  gave  his  name  to  the  fated  valley  of  Pierre's  Hole.  This 
branch  of  the  Iroquois  tribe  has  ever  since  remained  among 
these  mountains,  at  mortal  enmity  with  the  Blackfeet,  and  have 
lost  many  of  their  prime  hunters  in  their  feuds  with  that  fero- 
cious race.  Some  of  them  fell  in  with  General  Ashley,  in  the 
course  of  one  of  his  gallant  excursions  into  the  wilderness,  and 
have  continued  ever  since  in  the  employ  of  the  company. 

Among  the  motley  visitors  to  the  winter  quarters  of  Captain 
Bonneville,  was  a  party  of  Pends  Oreilles  (or  Hanging-ears)  and 
their  chief  These  Indians  have  a  strong  resemblance,  in  charac- 
ter and  customs,  to  the  Nez  Perces.  They  amount  to  about 
three  hundred  lodges,  and  are  well  armed,  and  possess  great  num- 
bers of  horses.  During  the  spring,  summer,  and  autumn,  they 
hunt  the  buffalo  about  the  head  waters  of  the  Missouri,  Henry's 
fork  of  the  Snake  River,  and  the  northern  branches  of  Salmon 
River.      Their  winter  quarters  are  upon  the  Racine  Amere, 


..,  «.«. 


108 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


where  they  subsist  upon  roots  and  dried  buffalo  meat.  Upon 
this  river  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  have  established  a  trading 
post,  where  the  Pends  Oroilles  and  the  Flatheads  bring  their 
peltries  to  exchange  for  arms,  clothing,  and  trinkets. 

This  tribe,  like  the  Ncz  Perc's,  evince  strong  and  peculiar 
feelings  of  natural  piety.  Their  religion  is  not  a  mere  supersti- 
tious fear,  like  that  of  most  savages  ;  they  evince  abstract  notions 
of  morality ;  a  deep  reverence  for  an  overruling  Spirit,  and  a 
respect  for  the  rights  of  their  fellow-men.  In  one  respect,  their 
religion  partakes  of  the  pacific  doctrines  of  the  Quakers.  They 
hold  that  the  Great  Spirit  is  displeased  with  all  nations  who  wan- 
tonly engage  in  war ;  they  abstain,  therefore,  from  all  aggressive 
hostilities.  But  though  thus  unoffending  in  their  policy,  they 
are  called  upon  continually  to  wage  defensive  warfare  ;  especially 
with  the  Blackfect ;  with  whom,  in  the  course  of  their  hunting 
expeditions,  they  come  in  frequent  collision,  and  have  desperate 
battles.  Their  conduct  as  warriors  is  without  fear  or  reproach, 
and  they  can  never  be  driven  to  abandon  their  hunting  grounds. 

Like  most  savages,  they  are  firm  believers  in  dreams,  and  in 
the  power  and  efficacy  of  charms  and  amulets,  or  n  edicines,  as 
they  term  them.  Some  of  their  braves,  also,  who  have  had 
numerous  hairbreadth  'scapes,  like  tlie  old  Nez  Perco  chief  in  the 
battle  of  Pierre's  Hole,  are  believed  to  wear  a  charmed  life,  and 
to  be  bullet  proof  Of  these  gifted  beings  marvellous  anecdotes 
are  related,  which  are  most  potently  believed  by  their  fellow- 
savages,  and  sometimes  almost  credited  by  the  white  hunters. 


RIVAL  THAPPBES. 


109 


CHAPTER  XL 

Rival  trapping  parties. — Manceuvring. — A  desperate  game. — Vanderburgh  and 
the  Blackfeet. — Deserted  camp  fire. — A  dark  defile. — An  Indian  ambush. — 
A  fierce  mel6e — fatal  consequences. — Fitzpatrick  and  Bridger.— Trappers' 
precautions, — Meeting  with  the  Blackfeet. — More  fighting. — Anecdote  of 
a  young  Mexican  and  an  Indian  girl. 


While  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  men  are  sojourning  among 
the  Nez  Perces,  on  Salmon  River,  we  will  inquire  after  the  for- 
tunes of  those  doughty  rivals  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  and 
American  Fur  Companies,  w^ho  started  oflF  for  the  trapping 
grounds  to  the  north-northwest. 

Fitzpatrick  and  Bridger,  of  the  former  company,  as  we  have 
already  shown,  having  received  their  supplies,  had  taken  the  lead, 
and  hoped  to  have  the  first  sweep  of  the  hunting  ground.  Van- 
derburgh and  Dripps,  however,  the  two  resident  partners  of  the 
opposite  company,  by  extraordinary  exertions,  were  enabled  soon 
to  put  themselves  upon  their  traces,  and  pressed  forward  with 
such  speed  as  to  overtake  them  just  as  they  had  reached  the  heart 
of  the  beaver  country.  In  fact,  being  ignorant  of  the  best  trap- 
ping grounds,  it  was  their  object  to  follow  on,  and  profit  by  the 
superior  knowledge  of  the  other  party. 

Nothing  could  equal  the  chagrin  of  Fitzpatrick  and  Bridger, 
at  being  dogged  by  their  inexperienced  rivals ;  especially  after 


(  I 


no 


BONNKVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


I;! 


their  offer  to  divide  the  country  with  them.  They  tried  in  every 
way  to  blind  and  baffle  them ;  to  steal  a  march  upon  them,  or 
lead  thom  on  a  wrong  scent ;  but  all  in  vain.  Vanderburgh 
made  up  by  activity  and  intelligence,  for  his  ignorance  of  the 
country  ;  was  always  wary,  always  on  the  alert ;  discovered  every 
movement  of  his  rivals,  however  secret,  and  was  not  to  be  eluded 
or  misled. 

Fitzpatrick  and  his  colleague  now  lost  all  patience :  since  the 
others  persisted  in  following  them,  they  determined  to  give  them 
an  unprofitable  chase,  and  to  sacrifice  the  hunting  season,  rather 
than  share  the  products  with  their  rivals.  They  accordingly  took 
up  their  lino  of  march  down  the  course  of  the  Missouri,  keeping 
the  main  Blackfoot  trail,  and  tramping  doggedly  forward,  without 
stopping  to  set  a  single  trap.  The  others  beat  the  hoof  after 
them  for  some  time,  but  by  .degrees  began  to  perceive  that  they 
were  on  a  wild-goose  chase,  and  getting  into  a  country  perfectly 
barren  to  the  trapper.  They  now  came  to  a  halt,  and  bethought 
themselves  how  to  make  up  for  lost  time,  and  improve  the 
remainder  of  the  season.  It  was  thought  best  to  divide  their 
forces  and  try  different  trapping  grounds.  While  Dripps  went 
in  one  direction,  Vanderburgh,  with  about  fifty  men,  proceeded 
in  another.  The  latter,  in  his  headlong  march,  had  got  into  the 
very  heart  of  the  Blackfoot  country,  yet  seems  to  have  been 
unconscious  of  his  danger.  As  his  scouts  were  out  one  day,  they 
came  upon  the  traces  of  a  recent  band  of  savages.  There  were 
the  deserted  fires  still  smoking,  surrounded  by  the  carcasses  of 
buffaloes  just  killed.  It  was  evident  a  party  of  Blackfeet  had 
been  frightened  from  their  hunting  camp,  and  had  retreated, 
probably  to  seek  reinforcements.  The  scouts  hastened  back  to 
the  camp,  and  told  Vanderburgh  what  they  had  seen.     He  mado 


THE  FATAL  RIFLE. 


Ill 


i 


light  of  the  alarm,  and,  taking  nine  men  with  him,  galloped  off  to 
reconnoitre  for  himself  He  found  the  deserted  hunting  camp 
just  as  they  had  represented  it ;  there  lay  the  carcasses  of  buffa- 
loes, partly  dismembered ;  there  were  the  smouldering  fires,  still 
sending  up  their  wreaths  of  smoke :  every  thing  bore  traces  of 
recent  and  hasty  retreat ;  and  gave  reason  to  believe  that  the 
savages  were  still  lurking  in  the  neighborhood.  With  heedless 
daring,  Vanderburgh  put  himself  upon  their  trail,  to  trace  them 
to  their  place  of  concealment.  It  led  him  over  prairies,  and 
through  skirts  of  woodland,  until  it  entered  a  dark  and  danger- 
ous ravine.  Vanderburgh  pushed  in,  without  hesitation,  followed 
by  his  little  band.  They  soon  found  themselves  in  a  gloomy 
dell,  between  steep  banks  overhung  with  trees ;  where  the  pro- 
found silence  was  only  broken  by  the  tramp  of  their  own  horses. 

Suddenly  the  horrid  war-whoop  burst  on  their  ears,  min- 
gled wii-h  the  sharp  report  of  rifles,  and  a  legion  of  savages 
sprang  from  their  concealments,  yelling,  and  shaking  their  buf- 
falo robes  to  frighten  the  horses.  Vanderburgh's  horse  fell, 
mortally  wounded  by  the  first  discharge.  In  his  fall,  he  pinned 
his  rider  to  the  ground  ;  who  called  in  vain  upon  his  men  to 
assist  in  extricating  him.  One  was  shot  down  and  scalped  a 
few  paces  distant ;  most  of  the  others  were  severely  wounded, 
and  sought  their  safety  in  flight.  The  savages  approached  to 
dispatch  the  unfortunate  leader,  as  he  lay  struggling  beneath  his 
horse.  He  had  still  his  rifle  in  his  hand,  and  his  pistols  in  his 
belt.  The  first  savage  that  advanced  received  the  contents  of 
the  rifle  in  his  breast,  and  fell  dead  upon  the  spot ;  but  before 
Vanderburgh  could  draw  a  pistol,  a  blow  from  a  tomahawk  laid 
him  prostrate,  and  he  was  dispatched  by  repeated  wounds. 

Such  was  the  fate  of  Major  Henry  Vanderburgh :  one  of  the 


I 


112 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


best  and  worthiest  leaders  of  the  American  Fur  Company ;  who, 
by  his  manly  bearing  and  dauntless  courage,  is  said  to  have 
made  himself  universally  popular  among  the  bold-hearted  rovers 
of  the  wilderness. 

Those  of  the  little  band  who  escaped  fled  in  consternation  to 
the  camp,  and  spread  direful  reports  of  the  force  and  ferocity  of 
the  enemy.  The  party,  being  without  a  head,  were  in  complete 
confusion  and  dismay,  and  made  a  precipitate  retreat,  without 
attempting  to  recover  the  remains  of  their  butchered  leader. 
They  made  no  halt  until  they  reached  the  encampment  of  the 
Pends  Oreilles,  or  Hanging-ears,  where  they  oflFered  a  reward  for 
the  recovery  of  the  body,  but  without  success ;  it  never  could  be 
found. 

In  the  meantime  Fitzpatrick  and  Bridger,  of  the  Rocky 
Mountain  Company,  fared  but  little  better  than  their  rivals.  In 
their  eagerness  to  mislead  them,  they  had  betrayed  themselves 
into  danger,  and  got  into  a  region  infested  with  the  Blackfeet, 
They  soon  found  that  foes  were  on  the  watch  for  them ;  but  they 
were  experienced  in  Indian  warfare,  and  not  to  be  surprised  at 
night,  nor  drawn  into  an  ambush  in  the  daytime.  As  the  evening 
advanced,  the  horses  were  all  brought  in  and  picketed,  and  a 
guard  was  stationed  round  the  camp.  At  the  earliest  streak  of 
day  one  of  the  leaders  would  mount  his  horse,  and  gallop  off  full 
speed  for  about  half  a  mile  ;  then  look  round  for  Indian  trails,  to 
ascertain  whether  there  had  been  any  lurkers  round  the  camp : 
returning  slowly,  he  would  reconnoitre  evei'y  ravine  and  thicket 
where  there  might  be  an  ambush.  This  done,  he  would  gallop 
off  in  an  opposite  direction  and  repeat  the  same  scrutiny.  Find- 
ing all  things  safe,  the  horses  would  be  turned  loose  to  graze ; 
but  always  under  the  eye  of  a  guard. 


•^^ 


I  r  " 


BRIDGER  AND  THE  BLACKFEET. 


113 


A  caution  ec^ually  vigilant  was  observed  in  the  march,  on 
approaching  any  defile  or  place  where  an  enemy  might  lie  in 
wait ;  and  scouts  were  always  kept  in  the  advance,  or  along  the 
ridges  and  rising  grounds  on  the  flanks. 

At  length,  one  day,  a  large  band  of  Blackfeet  appeared  in  the 
open  field,  but  in  the  vicinity  of  rocks  and  cliflFs.  They  kept  at 
a  wary  distance,  but  made  friendly  signs.  The  trappers  replied 
in  the  same  way,  but  likewise  kept  aloof  A  small  party  of 
Indians  now  advanced,  bearing  the  pipe  of  peace ;  they  were  met 
by  an  equal  number  of  white  men,  and  they  formed  a  group, 
midway  between  the  two  bands,  where  the  pipe  was  circulated 
from  hand  to  hand,  and  smoked  with  all  due  ceremony.  An 
instance  of  natural  affection  took  place  at  this  pacific  meeting. 
Among  the  free  trappers  in  the  Rocky  Mountain  band,  was  a 
spirited  young  Mexican,  named  Loretto ;  who,  in  the  course  of 
his  wanderings,  had  ransomed  a  beautiful  Blackfoot  girl  from  a 
band  of  Crows  by  whom  she  had  been  captured.  He  made  her 
his  wife,  after  the  Indian  style,  and  she  had  followed  his  fortunes 
ever  since,  with  the  most  devoted  affection. 

Among  the  Blackfeet  warriors  who  advanced  with  the  calu- 
met of  peace,  she  recognized  a  brother.  Leaving  her  infant 
with  Loretto,  she  rushed  forward  and  threw  herself  upon  her 
brother's  neck  ;  who  clasped  his  long  lost  sister  to  his  heart,  with 
a  warmth  of  affection  but  little  compatible  with  the  reputed 
stoicism  of  the  savage. 

While  this  scene  was  taking  place,  Bridger  left  the  main  body 
of  trappers,  and  rode  slowly  towards  the  group  of  smokers,  with 
his  rifle  resting  across  the  pommel  of  his  saddle.  The  chief  of 
the  Blackfeet  stepped  forward  to  meet  him.  From  some  unfor- 
tunate feeling  of  distrust,  Bridger  cocked  his  rifle  just  as  the 


114 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


i  m 


chief  was  extending  his  hand  in  friendship.  The  quick  ear  of 
the  savage  caught  the  click  of  the  lock  ;  in  a  twinkling,  he  grasp- 
ed the  barrel,  forced  the  muzzle  downward,  and  the  contents  were 
discharged  into  the  earth  at  his  feet.  His  next  movement  was 
to  wrest  the  weapon  from  the  hand  of  Bridger,  and  fell  him  with 
it  to  the  earth.  He  might  have  found  this  no  easy  task,  had  not 
the  unfortunate  leader  received  two  arrows  in  his  back  during 
the  struggle. 

The  chief  now  sprang  into  the  vacant  saddle  and  galloped  oflF 
to  his  band.  A  wild  hurry-skurry  scene  ensued  ;  each  party  took 
to  the  banks,  the  rocks,  and  trees,  to  gain  favorable  positions,  and 
an  irregular  firing  was  kept  up  on  either  side,  without  much  ef- 
fect. The  Indian  girj  had  been  hurried  off  by  her  people,  at  the 
outbreak  of  the  affray.  She  would  have  returned,  through  the 
dangers  of  the  fight,  to  her  husband  and  her  child,  but  was  pre- 
vented by  her  brother.  TIic  young  Mexican  saw  her  struggles 
and  her  agony,  and  heard  her  piercing  cries.  With  a  generous 
impulse,  he  caught  up  the  child  in  his  arms,  rushed  forward,  re- 
gardless of  Indian  shaft  or  rifle,  and  placed  it  in  safety  upon  her 
bosom.  Even  the  savage  heart  of  the  Blackfoot  chief  was  reached 
by  this  noble  deed.  He  pronounced  Loretto  a  madman  for  his 
temerity,  but  bade  him  depart  in  peace.  The  young  Mexican 
hesitated  :  he  urged  to  have  his  wife  restored  to  him,  but  her 
brother  interfered,  and  the  countenance  of  the  chief  grew  dark. 
The  girl,  he  said,  belonged  to  his  tribe — she  must  remain  with 
her  people.  Loretto  would  still  have  lingered,  but  his  wife  im- 
plored him  to  depart,  lest  his  life  should  be  endangered.  It 
was  with  the  greatest  reluctance  that  he  returned  to  his  com- 
panions. 

The  approach  of  night  put  an  end  to  the  skirmishing  fire  of 


w 

I 


LORETTO  AND  HIS  INDIAN  BRIDE. 


115 


the  adverse  parties,  and  the  savages  drew  off  without  renewing 
their  hostilities.  We  cannot  but  remark,  that  both  in  tliis  affair, 
and  in  tliat  at  Pierre's  Hole,  the  affray  commenced  by  a  hostile 
act  on  the  part  of  white  men,  at  the  moment  when  the  Indian 
warrior  was  extending  the  hand  of  amity.  In  neither  instance, 
as  far  as  circumstances  have  been  stated  to  us  by  different  per- 
sons, do  we  see  any  reason  to  suspect  the  savage  chiefs  of  perfidy 
in  their  overtures  of  friendship.  They  advanced  in  the  confiding 
way,  usual  among  Indians  when  they  bear  the  pipe  of  peace, 
and  consider  themselves  sacred  from  attack.  If  we  violate  the 
sanctity  of  this  ceremonial,  by  any  hostile  movement  on  our  part, 
it  is  we  who  incur  the  charge  of  faithlessness ;  and  we  doubt  not, 
that  in  both  these  instances,  the  white  men  have  been  considered 
by  the  Blackfcet  as  the  aggressors,  and  have,  in  consequence, 
been  held  up  as  men  not  to  be  trusted. 

A  word  to  conclude  the  romantic  incident  of  Loretto  and  his 
Indian  bride.  A  few  months  subsequent  to  the  event  just  re- 
lated, the  young  Mexican  settled  his  accounts  with  the  Rocky 
Mountain  Company,  and  obtained  his  discharge.  He  then  left 
his  comrades  and  set  off  to  rejoin  his  wife  and  child  among  her 
people  ;  and  we  understand  that,  at  the  time  we  are  writing  these 
pages,  he  resides  at  a  trading-house  established  of  late  by  the 
American  Fur  Company,  in  the  Blackfoot  country,  where  he  acts 
as  an  interpreter,  and  has  his  Indian  girl  with  him. 


116 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


CHAPTER  XII. 


A  winter  camp  in  the  wilderness. — Medley  of  trappers,  hunters,  and  Indians. 
— Scarcity  of  game. — New  arrangements  in  the  camp. — Detachments  sent 
to  a  distance. — Carelessness  of  tho  Indians  when  encamped. — Sickness 
among  the  Indians. — Excellent  character  of  the  Nez  Perces. — The  cap- 
tain's eflbrt  as  a  pacificator. — A  Nez  Percy's  argument  in  favor  of  war. — 
Robberies  by  the  Blaokfeet. — Long  suffering  of  the  Nez  Percy's. — A  hunt- 
er's elysium  among  the  mountains. — More  robberies. — The  captain  preaches 
up  a  crusade. — The  effect  upon  his  hearers. 

For  the  greater  part  of  the  month  of  November,  Captain  Bonne- 
ville remained  in  his  temporary  post  on  Salmon  River.  He  was 
now  in  the  full  enjoyment  of  his  wishes  ;  leading  a  hunter's  life 
in  the  heart  of  the  wilderness,  with  all  its  wild  populace  around 
him.  Beside  his  own  people,  motley  in  character  and  costume — 
Creole,  Kentuckian,  Indian^  half-breed,  hired  trapper,  and  free 
trapper — he  was  surrounded  by  encampments  of  Nez  Perces  and 
Flatheads,  with  their  droves  of  horses  covering  the  hills  and 
plains.  It  was,  he  declares,  a  wild  and  bustling  scene.  The  hunt- 
ing parties  of  white  men  and  red  men,  continually  sallying  forth 
and  returning ;  the  groups  at  the  various  encampments,  some 
cooking,  some  working,  some  amusing  themselves  at  different 
games  ;  the  neighing  of  horses,  the  braying  of  asses,  the  resound- 
ing strokes  of  the  axe,  the  sharp  report  of  the  rifle,  the  whoop, 


WINTER  CAMP  IN  THE  WILDERNESS. 


117 


the  halloo,  and  the  frequent  burst  of  laughter,  all  in  the  midst 
of  a  region  suddenly  roused  from  perfect  silence  and  loneliness 
by  this  transient  hunters'  sojourn,  realized,  he  says,  the  idea  of  a 
"  populous  solitude." 

The  kind  and  genial  character  of  the  captain  had,  evidently, 
its  influence  on  the  opposite  races  thus  fortuitously  congregated 
together.  The  most  perfect  harmony  prevailed  between  them. 
The  Indians,  he  says,  were  friendly  in  their  dispositions,  and 
honest  to  the  most  scrupulous  degree,  in  their  intercourse  with 
the  white  men.  It  is  true  they  were  somewhat  importunate  in 
their  curiosity,  and  apt  to  be  continually  in  the  way,  examining 
every  thing  with  keen  and  prying  eye,  and  watching  every  move- 
ment of  the  white  men.  All  this,  however,  was  borne  with  great 
good-humor  by  the  captain,  and  through  his  example  by  his  men. 
Indeed,  throughout  all  his  transactions,  he  shows  himself  the 
friend  of  the  poor  Indians,  and  his  conduct  towards  them  is 
above  all  praise. 

The  Nez  Perces,  the  Flatheads,  and  the  Hanging-ears,  pride 
themselves  upon  the  number  of  their  horses,  of  which  they  pos- 
sess more  in  proportion  than  any  other  of  the  mountain  tribes 
within  the  buflfalo  range.  Many  of  the  Indian  warriors  and 
hunters,  encamped  around  Captain  Bonneville,  possess  from 
thirty  to  forty  horses  each.  Their  horses  are  stout,  well  built 
ponies,  of  great  wind,  and  capable  of  enduring  the  severest  hard- 
ship and  fatigue.  The  swiftest  of  them,  however,  are  those  ob- 
tained from  the  whites,  while  sufficiently  young  to  become  accli- 
mated and  inured  to  the  rough  service  of  the  mountains. 

By  degrees  the  populousness  of  this  encampment  began  to 
produce  its  inconveniences.  The  immense  droves  of  horses 
owned  by  the  Indians,  consumed  the  herbage  of  the  surrounding 


118 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


hills  ;  while,  to  drive  them  to  any  distant  pasturage,  in  a  neigh- 
borhood abounding  with  lurking  and  deadly  enemies,  would  be  to 
endanger  the  loss  both  of  man  and  beast.  Game,  too,  began  to 
grow  scarce.  It  was  soon  huBted  and  frightened  out  of  the 
vicinity,  and  though  the  Indians  made  a  wide  circuit  through  the 
mountains  in  the  hope  of  driving  the  buffalo  towards  the  canton- 
ment, their  expedition  was  unsuccessful.  It  was  plain  that  so 
large  a  party  could  not  subsist  themselves  there,  nor  in  any  one 
place,  throughout  the  winter.  Captain  Bonneville,  therefore, 
altered  his  whole  arrangements.  He  detached  fifty  men  towards 
the  south  to  winter  upon  Snake  River,  and  to  trap  about  its  wa- 
ters in  the  spring,  with  orders  to  rejoin  him  in  the  month  of 
July,  at  Horse  Creels;,  in  Green  River  valley,  which  he  had  fixed 
upon  as  the  general  rendezvous  of  his  company  for  the  ensuing 
year. 

Of  all  his  late  party,  he  now  retained  with  him  merely  a  small 
number  of  free  trappers,  with  whom  he  intended  to  sojourn 
among  the  Nez  Percos  and  Flatheads,  and  adopt  the  Indian 
mode  of  moving  with  the  game  and  grass.  Those  bands,  in 
effect,  shortly  afterwards  broke  up  their  encampments  and  set  off 
for  a  less  beaten  neighborhood.  Captain  Bonneville  remained 
behind  for  a  few  days,  that  he  might  secretly  prepare  cacJies^ 
in  which  to  deposit  every  thing  not  required  for  current  use. 
Thus  lightened  of  all  superfluous  incumbrance,  he  set  off  on 
the  20th  of  November  to  rejoin  his  Indian  allies.  He  found 
them  encamped  in  a  secluded  part  of  the  country,  at  the  head  of 
a  small  stream.  Considering  themselves  out  of  all  danger  in 
this  sequestered  spot,  from  their  old  enemies,  the  Blackfeet,  their 
encampment  manifested  the  most  negligent  security.  Their 
lodges  were  scattered  in  every  direction,  and  their  horses  covered 


INDIAN   HORSES   IN  CAMP. 


»     U9 


I 


every  hill  for  a  great  distance  round,  grazing  upon  the  upland 
bunch  grass,  which  grew  in  great  abundance,  and  though  dry, 
retained  its  nutritious  properties,  instead  of  losing  them,  like 
other  grasses,  in  the  autumn.  . 

When  the  Nez  Percy's,  Flatheads,  and  Pends  Oreilles  are  en- 
camped in  a  dangerous  neighborhood,  says  Captain  Bonneville, 
the  greatest  care  is  taken  of  their  horses,  those  prime  articles  of 
Indian  wealth,  and  objects  of  Indian  depredation.  Each  warrior 
has  his  horse  tied  by  one  foot  at  night  to  a  stake  planted  before 
his  lodge.  Here  they  remain  until  broad  daylight ;  by  that  time 
the  young  men  of  the  camp  are  already  ranging  over  the  sur- 
rounding hills.  Each  family  then  drives  its  horses  to  some  eli- 
gible spot,  where  they  are  left  to  graze  unattended.  A  young 
Indian  repairs  occasionally  to  the  pasture  to  give  them  water, 
and  to  see  that  all  is  well.  So  accustomed  are  the  horses  to  this 
management,  that  they  keep  together  in  the  pasture  where  they 
have  been  left.  As  the  sun  sinks  behind  the  hills,  they  may  be 
seen  moving  from  all  points  towards  the  camp,  where  they  sur- 
render themselves  to  be  tied  up  for  the  night.  Even  in  situations 
of  danger,  the  Indians  rarely  set  guards  over  their  camp  at 
night,  intrusting  that  office  entirely  to  their  vigilant  and  well- 
trained  dogs. 

In  an  encampment,  however,  of  such  fancied  security  as  that 
in  which  Captain  Bonneville  found  his  Indian  friends,  much  of 
these  precautions  with  respect  to  their  horses  are  omitted.     They 

* 

merely  drive  them,  at  nightfall,  to  some  sequestered  little  dell, 
and  leave  them  there,  at  perfect  liberty,  until  the  morning. 

One  object  of  Captain  Bonneville  in  wintering  among  these 
Indians,  was  to  procure  a  supply  of  horses  against  the  spring. 
They  were,  however,  extremely  unwilling  to  part  with  any,  and  it 


190 


nONNEVILLK'S  ADVKNTURES. 


was  with  groat  difliculty  that  ho  purchased,  at  the  rate  of  twenty 
dollars  each,  a  few  for  tho  use  of  some  of  his  free  trappers,  who 
were  on  foot,  and  dependent  on  him  for  their  equipment. 

In  this  encampment  (Japtain  Bonneville  remained  from  the 
'2l8t  of  November  to  the  Dth  of  December.  During  this  jicriod 
the  thermometer  ranged  from  thirteen  to  forty-two  degrees.  There 
were  occasional  falls  of  snow;  but  it  generally  melted  away 
almost  immediately,  and  the  tender  blades  of  new  grass  began 
to  shoot  up  among  the  old.  On  the  7th  of  December,  however, 
the  thermometer  fell  to  seven  degrees. 

The  reader  will  recollect  that,  on  distributing  his  forces,  when 
in  Green  llivor  valley.  Captain  Bonneville  had  detached  a  party, 
headed  by  a  leader  of  the  name  of  Matthieu,  with  all  the  weak 
and  disabled  horses,  to  sojourn  about  Bear  River,  meet  the 
Shoshonic  bands,  and  afterwards  to  rejoin  him  at  his  winter  camp 
on  Salmon  lliver. 

More  than  sufficient  time  had  elapsed,  yet  Matthieu  failed  to 
make  his  appearance,  and  uneasiness  began  to  be  felt  on  his  ac- 
count. Captain  Bonneville  sent  out  four  men,  to  range  the  coun- 
try through  which  he  would  have  to  pass,  and  endeavor  to  get 
some  information  concerning  him ;  for  his  route  lay  across  the 
great  Snake  River  plain,  which  spreads  itself  out  like  an  Arabian 
desert,  and  on  which  a  cavalcade  could  be  descried  at  a  great  dis- 
tance. The  scouts  soon  returned,  having  proceeded  no  further 
than  the  edge  of  the  plain,  pretending  that  their  horses  were 
lame ;  but  it  was  evident  they  had  feared  to  venture,  with  so 
small  a  force,  into  these  exposed  and  dangerous  regions. 

A  disease,  which  Captain  Bonneville  supposed  to  be  pneumo- 
nia, now  appeared  among  the  Indians,  carrying  off  numbers  of 
them,  after  an  illness  of  three  or  four  days.     The  worthy  captain 


A   WAR   SPKECH. 


J 


191 


acted  as  physician,  prescribing  profuse  sweatings  and  oopioua 
bleedings,  and  unifurmly  witli  success,  if  the  patient  were  subse- 
quently treated  with  proper  care.  In  extraordinary  cases,  the 
poor  savages  called  in  the  aid  of  their  own  doctors  or  conjurors, 
who  officiated  with  great  noise  and  niuniniery,  but  with  little 
benefit.  Those  who  died  during  this  epidemic,  were  buried  in 
graves,  after  the  manner  of  the  whites,  but  without  any  regard  to 
the  direction  of  the  head.  It  is  a  fact  worthy  of  notice,  that, 
while  this  malady  made  such  ravages  among  the  natives,  not  a 
single  white  man  had  the  slightest  symptom  of  it. 

A  familiar  intercourse  of  some  standing  with  the  Piercod- 
nose  and  Flathead  Indians,  had  now  convinced  Captain  Bonne- 
ville of  tiieir  amicable  and  inoftensivo  character ;  he  began  to 
take  a  strong  interest  in  them,  and  conceived  the  idea  of  becom- 
ing a  pacificator,  and  healing  the  deadly  feud  between  them  and 
the  Blackfeet,  in  which  they  were  so  deplorably  tho  sufferers. 
He  proposed  the  matter  to  some  of  tho  leaders,  and  urged  that 
they  should  meet  the  Blackfeet  chiefs  in  a  grand  pacific  confer- 
ence, oifering  to  send  two  of  his  men  to  the  enemy's  camp 
with  pipe,  tobacco,  and  flag  of  truce,  to  negotiate  the  proposed 
meeting. 

The  Nez  Perces  and  Flathead  sages,  upon  this,  held  a  council 
of  war  of  two  days'  duration,  in  which  there  was  abundance  of 
hard  smoking  and  long  talking,  and  both  eloquence  and  tobacco 
were  nearly  exhausted.  At  length  they  came  to  a  decision  to 
reject  the  worthy  captain's  proposition,  and  upon  pretty  substan- 
tial grounds,  as  the  reader  may  judge. 

"War,"  said  the  chiefs,  "is  a  bloody  business,  and  full  of 
evil ;  but  it  keeps  the  eyes  of  the  chiefs  always  open,  and  makes 
the  limbs  of  the  young  men  strong  and  supple.     In  war,  every 

6 


199 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVKNTURKS. 


one  is  on  Ihc  alort.  If  wc  soo  a  trail,  wu  know  it  muHt  bu  an 
enemy  ;  if  tlic  IMuckfoot  conic  to  us,  wo  know  it  is  for  war,  and 
vie  BLVv  ready,  Puuec,  un  tiiu  utltcr  hand,  Hounds  no  alarm  ;  the 
eyes  of  the  chiefs  arc  closed  in  sleep,  and  the  young  men  are 
sleek  and  lazy.  The  horses  stray  into  the  mountains ;  the  women 
and  their  little  babes  go  about  alone.  ]}ut  the  heart  of  a  Black- 
foot  is  a  lie,  and  his  tongue  is  a  trap.  If  he  says  peace,  it  is  to 
deceive ;  he  comes  to  us  as  a  brother :  lie  smokes  his  pipe  with 
us ;  but  when  ho  sees  us  weak,  and  oif  our  guard,  he  will  slay 
and  steal.     We  will  have  no  such  peace ;  let  there  be  war  !" 

With  this  reasoning.  Captain  Bonneville  was  fain  to  acijuiesce ; 
but,  since  the  sagacious  Flatheads  and  their  allies  were  content 
to  remain  in  a  state  of  warfare,  he  wished  them,  at  least,  to  exer- 
cise the  boasted  vigilance  which  war  was  to  produce,  and  to  keep 
their  eyes  open.  He  represented  to  them  the  impossibility,  that 
two  such  considerable  clans  could  move  about  the  country 
without  leaving  trails  by  which  they  might  be  traced.  Besides, 
among  the  Blaekfeet  braves  were  several  Nez  Perces,  who  had 
been  taken  prisoners  in  early  youth,  adopted  by  their  captors,  and 
trained  up  and  imbued  with  warlike  and  predatory  notions ;  these 
had  lost  all  sympathies  with  their  native  tribe,  and  would  bo 
prone  to  lead  the  enemy  to  their  secret  haunts.  He  exhorted 
them,  therefore,  to  keep  upon  the  alert,  and  never  to  remit  their 
vigilance,  while  within  the  range  of  so  crafty  and  cruel  a  foe. 
All  these  counsels  were  lost  upon  his  easy  and  simple-minded 
hearers.  A  careless  indifference  reigned  throughout  their  en- 
campments, and  their  horses  were  permitted  to  range  the  hills  at 
night  in  perfect  freedom.  Captain  Bonneville  had  his  own  horses 
brought  in  at  night,  and  properly  picketed  and  guarded.  The 
eyil  he  apprehended  soon  took  place.     In  a  single  night,  a  swoop 


THE  HUNTERS  ELYSIUM. 


wns  made  tlirou^  h  the  neighboring  pastures  by  the  Blackfeet,  and 
eighty-six  of  the  finest  horses  carried  oft'.  A  whij)  and  a  rope 
were  left  in  a  conspicuous  situation  by  the  robbers,  as  a  taunt  to 
the  simpletons  they  had  unhorsed. 

Long  before  sunrise,  the  news  of  this  calamity  spread  like 
wildfire  through  the  dift'erent  encampments.  Captain  JJonneville, 
whose  own  horses  remained  safe  at  their  pickets,  watched  in  mo- 
mentary expectation  of  an  outbreak  of  warriors,  Picrced-noso 
and  Flathead,  in  furious  pursuit  of  the  marauders ;  but  no  such 
thing — they  contented  themselves  with  searching  diligently  over 
hill  and  dale,  to  glean  up  such  horses  as  had  escaped  the  hands 
of  the  marauders,  and  then  resigned  themselves  to  their  loss 
with  the  most  exemplary  (quiescence. 

Some,  it  is  true,  who  were  entirely  unhorsed,  set  out  on  a  beg- 
ging visit  to  their  cousins,  as  they  call  tiiem,  the  Lower  Nez 
Percrs,  who  inhabit  the  lower  country  about  the  Columbia,  and 
possess  horses  in  abundance.  To  these  they  repair  when  in  diffi- 
culty, and  seldom  fail,  by  dint  of  begging  and  bartering,  to  get 
themselves  once  more  mounted  on  horseback.  .  i. . 

Game  had  now  become  scarce  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
camp,  and  it  was  necessary,  according  to  Indian  custom,  to  move 
off  to  a  less  beaten  ground.  Captain  Bonneville  proposed  the 
Horse  Prairie  ;  but  his  Indian  friends  objected,  that  many  of  the 
Nez  Perct's  had  gone  to  visit  their  cousins,  and  that  the  whites 
were  few  in  number,  so  that  their  united  force  was  not  sufficient 
to  venture  upon  the  buffiilo  grounds,  which  were  infested  by 
bands  of  Blackfeet. 

They  now  spoke  of  a  place  at  no  great  distance,  which  they 
represented  as  a  perfect  hunter's  elysium.  It  was  on  the  right 
branch,  or  head  stream  of  the  river,  locked  up  among  cliffs  and 


IM 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


precipices,  where  there  was  no  danger  from  roving  bands,  and 
where  the  Blackfeet  dare  not  enter.  Here,  they  said,  the  elk 
abounded,  and  the  mountain  sheep  were  to  be  seen  trooping  upon 
the  rocks  and  hills.  A  little  distance  beyond  it,  also,  herds  of 
buffalo  were  to  be  met  with,  out  of  the  range  of  danger.  Thither 
they  proposed  to  move  their  camp. 

The  proposition  pleased  the  captain,  who  was  desirous,  through 
the  Indians,  of  becoming  acquainted  with  all  the  secret  places  of 
the  land.  Accordingly,  on  the  9th  of  December,  they  struck 
their  tents,  and  moved  forward  by  short  stages,  as  many  of  the 
Indians  were  yet  feeble  from  the  late  malady. 

Following  up  the  right  fork  of  the  river,  they  came  to  where 
it  entered  a  deep  gorge  of  the  mountains,  up  which,  lay  the  se- 
cluded region  so  much  vaunted  by  the  Indians.  Captain  Bonne- 
ville halted,  and  encamped  for  three  days,  before  entering  the 
gorge.  In  the  meantime,  he  detached  five  of  his  free  trappers  to 
scour  the  hills  and  kill  as  many  elk  as  possible,  before  the  main 
body  should  enter,  as  they  would  then  be  soon  frightened  away 
by  the  various  Indian  hunting  parties. 

While  thus  encamped,  they  were  still  liable  to  the  marauds 
of  the  Blackfeet,  and  Captain  Bonneville  admonished  his  Indian 
friends  to  be  upon  their  guard.  *  The  Nez  Perc's,  however,  not- 
withstanding their  recent  loss,  were  still  careless  of  their  horses ; 
merely  driving  them  to  some  secluded  spot,  and  leaving  them  there 
for  the  night,  without  setting  any  guard  upon  them.  The  con- 
sequence was  a  second  swoop,  in  which  forty-one  were  carried  off. 
This  was  borne  with  equal  philosophy  with  the  first,  and  no  effort 
was  made  either  to  recover  the  horses,  or  to  take  vengeance  on 
the  thieves. 

The  Nez  Percys,  however,  grew  more  cautious  with  respect  to 


AN  ENEMY  IN  THE  CAMP. 


their  remaining  horses,  driving  them  regularly  to  the  camp  every 
evening,  and  fastening  them  to  pickets.  Captain  Bonneville, 
however,  told  them  that  this  was  not  enough.  It  was  evident 
they  were  dogged  by  a  daring  and  persevering  enemy,  who  was 
encouraged  by  past  impunity  ;  they  should,  therefore,  take  more 
than  usual  precautions,  and  post  a  guard  at  night  over  their  cav- 
alry. They  could  not,  however,  be  persuaded  to  depart  from 
their  usual  custom.  The  horse  once  picketed,  the  care  of  the 
owner  was  over  for  the  night,  and  he  slept  profoundly.  None 
waked  in  the  camp  but  the  gamblers,  who,  absorbed  in  their  play, 
were  more  difficult  to  be  roused  to  external  circumstances  than 
even  the  sleepers. 

The  Blackfeet  are  bold  enemies,  and  fond  of  hazardous  ex- 
ploits. The  band  that  were  hovering  about  the  neighborhood, 
finding  they  had  such  pacific  people  to  deal  with,  redoubled  their 
daring.  The  horses  being  now  picketed  before  the  lodges,  a 
number  of  Blackfeet  scouts  penetrated  in  the  early  part  of  the 
night,  into  the  very  centre  of  the  camp.  Here  they  went  about 
among  the  lodges,  as  calmly  and  deliberately  as  if  at  home,  quietly 
cutting  loose  the  horses  that  stood  picketed  by  the  lodges  of  their 
sleeping  OMners.  One  of  these  prowlers,  more  adventurous  than 
the  rest,  approached  a  fire,  round  which  a  group  of  Nez  Perces 
were  gambling  with  the  most  intense  eagerness.  Here  he  stood 
for  some  time,  muffled  up  in  his  robe,  peering  over  the  shoulders 
of  the  players,  watching  the  changes  of  their  countenances  and 
the  fluctuations  of  the  game.  So  completely  engrossed  were  they, 
that  the  presence  of  this  muflled  eaves-dropper  was  unnoticed, 
and  having  executed  his  bravado,  he  retired  undiscovered. 

Having  cut  loose  as  many  horses  as  they  could  conveniently 
carry  off,  the  Blackfeet  scouts  rejoined  their  comrades,  and  all 


126 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


remained  patiently  round  the  camp.  By  degrees,  the  horses, 
finding  themselves  at  liberty,  took  their  route  towards  their  cus- 
tomary grazing  ground.  As  they  emerged  from  the  camp,  they 
were  silently  taken  possession  of,  until,  having  secured  about 
thirty,  the  Blackfeet  sprang  on  their  backs  and  scampered  off. 
The  clatter  of  hoofs  startled  the  gamblers  from  their  game. 
They  gave  the  alarm,  which  soon  roused  the  sleepers  from  every 
lodge.  Still  all  was  quiescent ;  no  marshalling  of  forces,  no  sad- 
dling of  steed  and  dashing  off  in  pursuit,  no  talk  of  retribution 
for  their  repeated  outrages.  The  patience  of  Captain  Bonneville 
was  at  length  exhausted.  He  had  played  the  part  of  a  pacificator 
without  success  ;  he  now  altered  his  tone,  and  resolved,  if  possi- 
ble, to  rouse  their  war,  spirit. 

Accordingly,  convoking  their  chiefs,  he  inveighed  against 
their  craven  policy,  and  urged  the  necessity  of  vigorous  and  re- 
tributive measures,  that  would  check  the  confidence  and  pre- 
sumption of  their  enemies,  if  not  inspire  them  with  awe.  For 
this  purpose,  he  advised  that  a  war  party  should  be  immediately 
sent  off  on  the  trail  of  the  marauders,  to  follow  them,  if  neces- 
sary, into  the  very  heart  of  the  Blackfoot  country,  and  not  to 
leave  them  until  they  had  taken  signal  vengeance.  Beside  this, 
he  recommended  the  organization  of  minor  war  parties,  to  make 
reprisals  to  the  extent  of  the  losses  sustained.  "  Unless  you 
rouse  yourselves  from  your  apathy,"  said  he,  "  and  strike  some 
bold  and  decisive  blow,  you  will  cease  to  be  considered  men,  or 
objects  of  manly  warfare.  The  very  squaws  and  children  of  the 
Blackfeet  will  be  sent  against  you,  while  their  warriors  reserve 
themselves  for  nobler  antagonists." 

This  harangue  had  evidently  a  momentary  effect  upon  the 
pride  of  the  hearers.     After  a  short  pause,  however,  one  of  the 


INDIFFERENCE  OF  THE  NEZ  PERCES. 


127 


orators  arose.  It  was  bad.  Le  said,  to  go  to  war  for  mere  revenge. 
The  Great  Spirit  Lad  given  them  a  heart  for  peace,  not  for  war. 
They  had  lost  horses,  it  was  true,  but  they  could  easily  get  others 
from  their  cousins,  the  Lower  Nez  Perc's,  without  incurring  any 
risk ;  whereas,  in  war  they  should  lose  men,  who  were  not  50 
readily  replaced.  As  to  their  late  losses,  an  increased  watchful- 
ness would  prevent  any  more  misfortunes  of  the  kind.  He  dis- 
approved, therefore,  of  all  hostile  measures  ;  and  all  the  other 
chiefs  concurred  in  his  opinion. 

Captain  Bonneville  again  took  up  the  point.  "  It  is  true," 
said  he,  "  the  Great  Spirit  has  given  you  a  heart  to  love  your 
friends ;  but  he  has  also  given  you  an  arm  to  strike  your  ene- 
mies. Unless  you  do  something  speedily  to  put  an  end  to  this 
continual  plundering,  I  must  say  farewell.  As  yet,  I  have 
sustained  no  loss  ;  thanks  to  the  precautions  which  you  have 
slighted :  but  my  property  is  too  unsafe  here ;  my  turn  will 
come  next ;  I  and  my  people  will  share  the  contempt  you  are 
bringing  upon  yourselves,  and  will  be  thought,  like  you,  poor- 
spirited  beings,  who  may  at  any  time  be  plundered  with  im- 
punity." 

The  conference  broke  up  with  some  signs  of  excitement  on 
the  part  of  the  Indians:-  Early  the  next  morning,  a  party  of 
thirty  men  set  off  in  pursuit  of  the  foe,  and  Captain  Bonneville 
hoped  to  hear  a  good  account  of  the  Blackfeet  marauders.  To 
his  disappointment,  the  war  party  came  lagging  back  on  the  fol- 
lowing day,  leading  a  few  old,  sorry,  broken-down  horses,  which 
the  freebooters  had  not  been  able  to  urge  to  sufficient  speed. 
This  effort  exhausted  the  martial  spirit,  and  satisfied  the  wounded 
pride  of  the  Nez  Perces,  and  they  relapsed  into  their  usual  btate 
of  passive  indifference. 


128 


BONNEVILLK'S  AUVKNTURES. 


it;j 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

STORY  OF  KOSATO,  THE  RENEGADE  BLACKFOOT. 

If  the  meekness  and  long-suftering  of  the  Pierced-noses  grieved 
the  spirit  of  Captain  Bonneville,  there  was  another  individual  in 
the  camp,  to  whom  thgy  were  still  more  annoying.  This  was  a 
Blackfoot  ronegado,  named  Kosato,  a  fiery,  hot-blooded  youth, 
who,  with  a  beautiful  girl  of  the  same  tribe,  had  taken  refuge 
among  the  Nez  Perci's.  Though  adopted  into  the  tribe,  he  still 
retained  the  warlike  spirit  of  his  race,  and  loathed  the  peaceful, 
inoft'ensivc  habits  of  thoso  around  him.  The  hunting  of  the  deer, 
the  elk,  and  the  buftalo,  which  was  the  height  of  their  ambition, 
was  too  tame  to  satisfy  his  wild  and  restless  nature.  His  heart 
burned  for  the  foray,  the  ambush,  the  skirmish,  the  scamper,  and 
all  the  haps  and  hazards  of  roving  and  predatory  warfare. 

The  recent  hovorings  of  the  Blackfect  about  the  camp,  their 
nightly  prowls,  and  daring  and  successful  marauds,  had  kept  him 
in  a  fever  and  a  flutter  ;  like  a  hawk  in  a  cage,  who  hears  his  late 
companions  swooping  and  screaming  in  wild  liberty  above  him. 
The  attempt  of  Captain  Bonneville  to  rouse  the  war  spirit  of  the 
Nez  Percos,  and  prompt  them  to  retaliation,  was  ardently  sec- 
onded by  Kosato.  For  several  days  he  was  incessantly  devising 
schemes  of  vengeance,  and  endeavoring  to  set  on  foot  an  expedi- 


STORY   OF  KOSATO. 


129 


tion  that  should  carry  dismay  and  desolation  into  the  Blackfeet 
towns.  All  his  art  was  exerted  to  touch  upon  those  springs  of 
human  action  with  which  he  was  most  familiar.  He  drew  the 
listening  savages  round  him  by  his  nervous  eloquence ;  taunted 
them  with  recitals  of  past  wrongs  and  insults ;  drew  glowing  pic- 
tures of  triumphs  and  trophies  within  their  reach ;  recounted 
talcs  of  daring  and  romantic  enterprise,  of  secret  marchings, 
covert  lurkings,  midnight  surprisals,  sackings,  burnings,  plun- 
derings,  scalpings  ;  together  with  the  triumphant  return,  and 
the  feasting  and  rejoicing  of  the  victors.  These  wild  tales  were 
intermingled  with  the  beating  of  the  drum,  the  yell,  the  war- 
whoop  and  the  war-dance,  so  inspiring  to  Indian  valor.  All, 
however,  were  lost  upon  tbe  peaceful  spirits  of  his  hearers ;  not 
a  Nez  Perce  was  to  be  roused  to  vengeance,  or  stimulated  to  glo- 
rious war.  In  the  bitterness  of  his  heart,  the  Blackfoot  renegado 
repined  at  the  mishap  which  had  severed  him  from  a  race  of 
congenial  spirits,  and  driven  him  to  take  refuge  among  beings  so 
destitute  of  martial  fire. 

The  character  and  conduct  of  this  man  attracted  the  attention 
of  Captain  Bonneville,  and  he  was  anxious  to  hear  the  reason  why 
he  had  deserted  his  tribe,  and  why  he  looked  back  upon  them  with 
such  deadly  hostility.  Kosato  told  him  his  own  story  briefly ; — 
it  gives  a  picture  of  the  deep,  strong  passions  that  work  in  the 
bosoms  of  these  miscalled  stoics. 

"  You  see  my  wife,"  said  he :  "  she  is  good ;  she  is  beautiful — 
I  love  her. — Yet,  she  has  been  the  cause  of  all  my  troubles.  She 
was  the  wife  of  my  chief.  I  loved  her  more  than  he  did ;  and 
she  knew  it.  We  talked  together ;  we  laughed  together ;  we 
were  always  seeking  each  other's  society ;  but  we  were  as  in- 
nocent as  children.     The  chief  grew  jealous,  and  commanded 


130 


nONNRVILLF/S  ADVRNTURKS. 


hor  to  speak  with  me  no  more.  His  heart  bceamo  hard  towards 
her ;  his  Jealousy  grew  more  furious.  He  beat  her  witliout  cause 
and  without  mcrey ;  and  threatened  to  kill  her  outright,  if  she 
even  looked  at  me.  Bo  you  want  traees  of  his  fury?  Look  at 
that  soar  !  II  is  rage  against  me  was  no  less  persecuting.  War 
parties  of  the  Crows  were  hovering  round  us ;  our  young  men 
bad  seen  their  trail.  All  hearts  \yere  roused  for  action ;  my 
horses  were  before  my  lodge.  Suddenly  the  chief  came,  took 
them  to  his  own  pickets,  and  called  them  his  own.  What  could 
I  do  ? — he  was  a  chief  I  durst  not  speak,  but  my  heart  was 
burning.  I  joined  no  longer  in  the  council,  the  hunt,  or  the 
war-feast.  Wiiat  had  I  to  do  there?  an  unhorsed,  degraded 
warrior.  I  kept  by  .myself,  and  thought  of  nothing  but  these 
wrongs  and  outrages. 

"I  was  sitting  one  evening  upon  a  knoll  that  overlooked  the 
meadow  where  the  horses  were  pastured.  I  saw  the  horses  that 
were  once  mine  grazing  among  those  of  the  chief  This  mad- 
dened me,  and  I  sat  brooding  for  a  time  over  the  injuries  I  had 
suffered,  and  the  cruelties  which  she  I  loved  had  endured  for  my 
sake,  until  my  heart  swelled  and  grew  sore,  and  my  teeth  were 
clinclied.  As  I  looked  down  upon  the  meadow,  I  saw  the  chief 
walking  among  his  horses.  I  fastened  my  eyes  on  him  as  a 
hawk's ;  my  blood  boiled ;  I  drew  my  breath  hard.  He  went 
among  the  willows.  In  an  instant  I  was  on  my  feet ;  my  hand 
was  on  my  knife — I  flow  rather  than  ran — before  he  was  aware, 
I  sprang  upon  him,  and  with  two  blows  laid  him  dead  at  my  feet. 
I  covered  his .  body  with  earth,  and  strewed  bushes  over  the 
place ;  then  hastened  to  her  I  loved,  told  her  what  I  had  done, 
and  urged  her  to  fly  with  me.  She  only  answered  me  with  tears. 
I  reminded  her  of  the  wrongs  I  had  suffered,  and  of  the  blows 


STORY  OF  KOSATO. 


131 


and  stripes  sho  had  endured  from  the  deceased ;  I  had  done 
nothing  but  an  act  of  justice.  I  again  urged  her  to  flj ;  but  she 
only  wept  the  more,  and  bade  me  go.  My  heart  was  heavy,  but 
my  eyes  were  dry.  I  folded  my  arms.  '  'Tis  well,'  said  I ; 
'  Kosato  will  go  alone  to  the  desert.  None  will  be  with  him  but 
the  wild  beasts  of  the  desert.  The  seekers  of  blood  may  follow 
on  his  trail.  They  may  come  upon  him  when  ho  sleeps,  and  glut 
their  revenge ;  but  you  will  bo  safe.     Kosato  will  go  alone.' 

"  I  turned  away.  She  sprang  after  me,  and  strained  me  in 
hor  arms.  '  No,'  cried  she,  '  Kosato  shall  not  go  alone  !  Wher- 
ever he  goes  I  will  go — he  shall  never  part  from  me.' 

"  We  hastily  took  in  our  hands  such  things  as  we  most  needed, 
and  stealing  quietly  from  the  village,  mounted  the  first  horses  we 
encountered.  Speeding  day  and  niglit,  we  soon  reached  thia 
tribe.  They  received  us  with  welcome,  and  we  have  dwelt  with 
thcni  in  peace.  They  are  good  and  kind  ;  they  are  honest ;  but 
their  hearts  are  the  hearts  of  women." 

Such  was  the  story  of  Kosato,  as  related  by  him  to  Captain 
Bonneville.  It  is  of  a  kind  that  often  occurs  in  Indian  life ; 
where  love  elopements  from  tribe  to  tribe  are  as  frequent  as 
among  the  novel-read  heroes  and  heroines  of  sentimental  civili- 
zation, and  often  give  rise  to  bloody  and  lasting  feuds. 


139 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

The  party  enUTs  tlie  mountain  gorge. — A  wild  fnatncss  among  hills. — Moun- 
toin  mutton. — Peacf  ami  plenty. — The  amorous  trapper. — A  piebald  wed- 
ding.— A  free  trapper's  wife — her  gala  equipments. — Christmas  in  the  wil- 
derness. 

On  the  10th  of  Pocombcr  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  confederate 
Indians  raised  their  camp,  and  entered  the  narrow  gorge  made 
by  the  nortli  fork  of  Salmon  River.  Up  this  lay  the  secure  and 
plenteous  hunting  region  so  temptingly  described  by  the  Indians. 

Since  leaving  Green  River  the  plains  had  invariably  been  of 
loose  sand  or  coarse  gravel,  and  the  rocky  formation  of  the  moun- 
tains of  primitive  limestone.  The  rivers,  in  general,  were  skirted 
with  willows  and  bitter  cotton-wood  trees,  and  the  prairies  covered 
with  wormwood.  In  the  hollow  breast  of  the  mountains  which 
they  were  now  penetrating,  the  surrounding  heights  were  clothed 
with  pine  ;  while  tiie  declivities  of  the  lower  hills  afforded  abun- 
dance of  bunch  grass  for  the  horses. 

As  the  Indians  had  represented,  they  were  now  in  a  natural 
fastness  of  the  mountains,  tiie  ingress  and  egress  of  which  was 
by  a  deep  gorge,  so  narrow,  rugged,  and  difficult,  as  to  prevent 
secret  approach  or  rapid  retreat,  and  to  admit  of  easy  defence. 
The  Blackfeet,  therefore,  refrained  from  venturing  in  after  the 
Nez  Percys,  awaiting  a  better  chance,  when  they  should  once 
more  emerge  into  the  open  country. 


GOOD  CHEER— MATRIMONY. 


133 


Captain  Bonneville  soon  found  that  the  Indians  had  not  ex- 
aggerated the  advantages  of  this  region.  Besides  numerous 
gangs  of  elk,  largo  flocks  of  the  ahsahta  or  bighorn,  the  mountain 
sheep,  were  to  bo  seen  bounding  among  the  precipices.  These 
simple  animals  were  easily  circumvented  arid  destroyed.  A  few 
hunters  may  surround  a  flock  and  kill  as  many  as  they  please. 
Numbers  were  daily  brought  into  camp,  and  the  flesh  of  those 
which  were  young  and  fat,  was  extolled  as  superior  to  the  finest 
mutton. 

Here,  then,  there  was  a  cessation  from  toil,  from  hunger,  and 
alarm.  Past  ills  and  dangers  were  forgotten.  The  hunt,  the 
game,  the  song,  the  story,  the  rough  though  good-humored  joke, 
made  time  pass  joyously  away,  and  plenty  and  security  reigned 
tliroughout  the  camp. 

Idleness  and  ease,  it  is  said,  lead  to  love,  and  love  to  matri- 
mony, in  civilized  life,  and  the  same  process  takes  place  in  the 
wilderness.  Filled  with  good  cheer  and  mountain  mutton,  one  of 
the  free  trappers  began  to  repine  at  the  solitude  of  his  lodge,  and 
to  experience  the  force  of  that  great  law  of  nature,  "  it  is  not 
meet  for  man  to  live  alone." 

After  a  night  of  grave  cogitation,  he  repaired  to  Kowsoter, 
the  Pierced-nose  chief ;  and  unfolded  to  him  the  secret  workings 
of  his  bosom. 

"  I  want,"  said  he,  "  a  wife.  Give  me  one  from  among  your 
tribe.  Not  a  young,  giddy-pated  girl,  that  will  think  of  nothing 
but  flaunting  and  finery,  but  a  sober,  discreet,  hard-working 
squaw  ;  one  that  will  share  my  lot  without  flinching,  however 
hard  it  may  be ;  that  can  take  care  of  my  lodge,  and  be  a  com- 
panion and  a  helpmate  to  me  in  the  wilderness."  Kowsoter 
promised  to  look  round  among  the  females  of  his  tribe,  and  pro- 


'U. 


I 


134 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


euro  such  a  one  as  he  desired.  Two  days  were  requisite  for  the 
search.  At  the  expiration  of  these,  Kowsoter  called  at  his  lodge 
and  informed  him  that  ho  would  bring  his  bride  to  him  in  the 
course  of  the  afternoon.  He  kept  his  word.  At  the  appointed 
time  he  approached,  leading  the  bride,  a  comely  copper-colored 
dame,  attired  in  her  Indian  finery.  Her  father,  mother,  brothers 
by  the  half  dozen,  and  cousins  by  the  score,  all  followed  on  to 
grace  the  ceremony,  and  greet  the  new  and  important  relative. 

The  trapper  received  his  new  and  numerous  family  connection 
with  proper  solemnity  ;  he  placed  his  bride  beside  him,  and,  fill- 
ing the  pipe,  the  great  symbol  of  peace,  with  his  best  tobacco, 
took  two  or  three  whift's,  then  handed  it  to  the  chief,  who  trans- 
ferred it  to  the  fatliQr  of  the  bride,  from  whom  it  was  passed 
on  from  hand  to  hand  and  mouth  to  mouth  of  the  whole  circle  of 
kinsmen  round  the  fire,  all  maintaining  the  most  profound  and 
becoming  silence. 

After  several  pipes  had  been  filled  and  emptied  in  tliis  solemn 
ceremonial,  the  chief  addressed  the  bride ;  detailing,  at  considera- 
ble length,  the  duties  of  a  wife ;  which,  among  Indians,  are  little 
less  onerous  than  those  of  the  pack-horse  ;  this  done,  he  turned 
to  her  friends,  and  congratulated  them  upon  the  great  alliance 
she  had  made.  They  showed  a  due  sense  of  their  good  fortune, 
especially  when  the  nuptial  presents  came  to  be  distributed 
among  the  chiefs  and  relatives,  amounting  to  about  one  hundred 
and  eighty  dollars.  The  company  soon  retired,  and  now  the 
worthy  trapper  foun'^.,  indeed,  that  he  had  no  green  girl  to  deal 
with  ;  for  the  knowing  dame  at  once  assumed  the  style  and  dig- 
nity of  a  trapper's  wife,  taking  possession  of  the  lodge  as  her 
undisputed  empire ;  arranging  every  thing  according  to  her  own 
taste  and  habitudes ;    and  appearing  as  much  at  home,  and  on 


A  FREE  TRAPPER'S  WIFE. 


135 


as  easy  terms  with  the  trapper,  as  if  they  had  been  man  and  wife 
for  years. 

Wo  have  already  given  a  picture  of  a  free  trapper  and  his 
horse,  as  furnished  by  Captain  Bonneville :  we  shall  here  subjoin, 
as  a  companion  picture,  his  description  of  a  free  trapper's  wife, 
that  the  reader  may  have  a  correct  idea  of  the  kind  of  blessing 
the  worthy  hunter  in  question  had  invoked  to  solace  him  in  the 
wilderness. 

"  The  free  trapper,  while  a  bachelor,  has  no  greater  pet  than 
his  horse  ;  but  the  moment  he  takes  a  wife,  (a  sort  of  brevet  rank 
in  matrimony  occasionally  bestowed  upon  some  Indian  fair  one, 
like  the  heroes  of  ancient  chivalry,  in  the  open  field,)  he  discovers 
that  he  has  a  still  more  fanciful  and  capricious  animal  on  which 
to  lavish  his  expenses. 

"  No  sooner  does  an  Indian  belle  experience  this  promotion, 
than  all  her  notions  at  once  rise  and  expand  to  the  dignity  of  her 
situation ;  and  the  purse  of  her  lover,  and  his  credit  into  the  bar- 
gain, arc  tasked  to  the  utmost  to  fit  her  out  in  becoming  style. 
The  wife  of  a  free  trapper  to  be  equipped  and  arrayed  like  any 
ordinary  and  undistinguished  squaw?  Perish  the  grovelling 
thought !  In  the  first  place,  she  must  have  a  horse  for  her  own 
riding ;  but  no  jaded,  sorry,  earth-spirited  hack ;  such  as  is  some- 
times assigned  by  an  Indian  husband  for  the  transportation  of 
his  squaw  and  her  pappooses :  the  wife  of  a  free  trapper  must  have 
the  most  beautiful  animal  she  can  lay  her  eyes  on.  And  then,  as 
to  his  decoration :  headstall,  breast-bands,  saddle  and  crupper, 
are  lavishly  embroidered  with  beads,  and  hung  with  thimbles, 
hawks'  bells,  and  bunches  of  ribands.  From  each  side  of  the 
saddle  hangs  an  esquimoot,  a  sort  of  pocket,  in  which  she  bestows 
the  residue  of  her  trinkets  and  knick-knacks,  which  cannot  be 


136 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


crowded  on  tho  decoration  of  her  horse  or  herself.  Over  this 
she  folds,  with  great  care,  a  drapery  of  scarlet  and  brigiitcolored 
calicoes,  and  now  considers  the  caparison  of  her  steed  complete. 

"  As  to  her  own  person,  she  is  even  still  more  extravagant. 
Her  hair,  esteemed  beautiful  in  proportion  to  its  length,  is  care- 
fully plaited,  and  made  to  fall  with  seeming  negligence  over 
cither  breast.  Her  riding  hat  is  stuck  full  of  party-colored 
feathers ;  her  robe,  fashioned  somewhat  after  that  of  the  whites, 
is  of  red,  green,  and  sometimes  gray  cloth,  but  always  of  the 
finest  texture  that  can  be  procured.  Her  leggins  and  moccasons 
are  of  tho  most  beautiful  and  expensive  workmanship,  and  fitted 
neatly  to  the  foot  and  ankle,  which  with  the  Indian  women  are 
generally  well  formed  i  and  delicate.  Then  as  to  jewelry  :  in  the 
way  of  finger-rings,  ear-rings,  necklaces,  and  other  female  glories, 
nothing  within  reach  of  the  trapper's  means  is  omitted,  that  can 
tend  to  impress  the  beholder  with  an  idea  of  the  lady's  high 
estate.  To  finish  the  whole,  she  selects  from  among  her  blankets 
of  various  dyes,  one  of  some  glowing  color,  and  throwing  it  over 
her  shoulders  with  a  native  grace,  vaults  into  the  saddle  of  her 
gay,  prancing  steed,  and  is  ready  to  follow  her  mountaineer  '  to 
the  last  gasp  with  love  and  loyalty.'  " 

Such  is  the  general  picture  of  the  free  trapper's  wife,  given  by 
Captain  Bonneville ;  how  far  it  applied  in  its  details  to  the  one  in 
question,  does  not  altogether  appear,  though  it  would  seem  from 
the  outset  of  her  connubial  career,  that  she  was  ready  to  avail 
herself  of  all  the  pomp  and  circumstance  of  her  new  condition. 
It  is  worthy  of  mention,  that  wherever  there  are  several  wives  of 
free  trappers  in  a  camp,  the  keenest  rivalry  exists  between  them, 
to  the  sore  detriment  of  their  husbands'  purses.  Their  whole 
time  is  expended,  and  their  ingenuity  tasked  by  endeavors  to 


(T 


CHllISTMAa  IN   THK  WILDERNESS. 


137 


eclipso  each  other  in  dress  and  decoration.  The  jealousies  and 
heart-burnings  thus  occasioned  among  these,  so  styled,  children  of 
nature,  are  ct^ually  intense  with  those  of  the  rival  leaders  of 
style  and  fashion  in  the  luxurious  abodes  of  civilized  life. 

The  genial  festival  of  Christmas,  which  throughout  all  Chris- 
tendom lights  up  the  fireside  of  homo  with  mirth  and  jollity,  fol- 
lowed hard  upon  the  wedding  just  described.  Though  fur  from 
kindred  and  friends,  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  handful  of  free 
trappers  were  not  disposed  to  suffer  the  festival  to  pass  uneu- 
joyed ;  they  were  in  a  region  of  good  cheer,  and  were  disposed  to 
be  joyous  ;  so  it  was  determined  to  "  light  up  the  yule  clog,"  and 
celebrate  a  merry  Christmas  in  the  heart  of  the  wilderness. 

On  Christmas  eve,  accordingly,  they  began  their  rude  f6tes 
and  rejoicings.  In  the  course  of  the  night  the  free  trappers  sur- 
rounded the  lodge  of  the  Pierced-nose  chief,  and  in  lieu  of  Christ- 
mas carols,  saluted  him  with  a  feu  dejoie. 

Kowsoter  received  it  in  a  truly  Christian  spirit,  and  after  a 
speech,  in  which  he  expressed  his  high  gratification  at  the  honor 
done  him,  invited  the  whole  company  to  a  feast  on  the  following 
day.  His  invitation  was  gladly  accepted.  A  Christmas  dinner 
in  the  wigwam  of  an  Indian  chief !  There  was  novelty  in  the 
idea.  Not  one  failed  to  be  present.  The  banquet  was  served  up 
in  primitive  style :  skins  of  various  kinds,  nicely  dressed  for 
the  occasion,  were  spread  upon  the  ground  ;  upon  these  were 
heaped  up  abundance  of  venison,  elk  meat,  and  mountain  mutton ; 
with  various  bitter  roots,  which  the  Indian.s  use  as  condiments. 

After  a  short  prayer,  the  company  all  seated  themselves  cross- 
legged,  in  Turkish  fashion,  to  the  banquet,  which  passed  off  with 
great  hilarity.  After  which  various  games  of  strength  and  agility, 
by  both  white  men  and  Indians,  closed  the  Christmas  festivities. 


138 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

A  hunt  after  hunters.  —  Hungry  times. — A  veracious  repast.  —  Wintry 
weather. — Godin's  River. — Splendid  winter  scene  on  the  great  lava  plain 
of  Snake  River. — Severe  travelling  and  tramping  in  the  snow. — Manoju- 
vresof  a  solitary  Indian  horseman. — Encampment  on  Snake  River. — Ban- 
neck  Indians. — The  Horse  chief — his  charmed  life. 


I 


TnK  continued  absence  of  Mattlncu  and  his  party  had,  by  this 
time,  caused  great  uneasiness  in  the  mind  of  Captain  Bonneville ; 
and,  finding  there  was  no  dependence  to  be  placed  upon  the  per- 
severance and  courage  of  scouting  parties,  in  so  perilous  a  quest, 
he  determined  to  set  out  himself  on  the  search,  and  to  keep 
on  until  he  should  ascertain  something  of  the  object  of  his  so- 
licitude. 

Accordingly,  on  the  2Gth  December,  he  left  the  camp,  accom- 
panied by  thirteen  stark  trappers  and  hunters,  all  well  mounted 
and  armed  for  dangerous  enterprise.  On  the  following  morning 
they  passed  out  at  the  head  of  the  mountain  gorge,  and  sallied 
forth  into  the  open  plain.  As  they  confidently  expected  a  brush 
with  the  Blackfeet,  or  some  other  predatory  horde,  they  moved 
wiih  great  circumspection,  and  kept  vigilant  watch  in  their  en- 
campments. 

In  the  course  of  another  day  they  left  the  main-  branch  of 
Salmon  River,  and  proceeded  south  towards  a  pass  called  John 


LURKING  INDIANS, 


s    ' 


139 


Day's  defile.  It  was  severe  and  arduous  travelling.  The  plains 
wore  swept  by  keen  and  bitter  blasts  of  wintry  wind  ;  tlie  ground 
\Mis  generally  covered  with  snow,  game  was  scarce,  so  that  hunger 
^cncnilly  prevailed  in  the  camp,  while  the  want  of  pasturage  soon 
bogan  to  manifest  itself  in  the  declining  vigor  of  the  horses. 

The  party  had  scarcely  encamped  on  the  afternoon  of  the 
2  ■'th,  when  two  of  the  hunters  who  had  sallied  forth  in  quest  of 
game  came  galloping  back  in  great  alarm.  While  hunting  they 
had  perceived  a  party  of  savages,  evidently  manoeuvring  to  cut 
tliciu  off  from  the  camp  ;  and  nothing  had  saved  them  from  being 
entrapped  but  the  speed  of  their  horses. 

'''lose  tidings  struck  disma}'  into  the  camp.  Captain  Bonne- 
ville endeavored  to  reassure  his  men  by  representing  the  position 
of  their  encampment,  and  its  capability  of  defence.  He  then 
ordered  the  horses  to  be  driven  in  and  picketed,  and  threw  up  a 
rough  breastwork  of  fallen  trunks  of  trees,  and  the  vegetable 
rubbish  of  the  wilderness.  Within  this  barrier  was  maintained 
a  vigilant  watch  throughout  the  night,  which  passed  away  without 
alarm.  At  early  dawn  they  scrutinized  the  surrounding  plain, 
to  discover  whether  any  enemies  had  been  lurking  about  during 
the  night :  not  a  foot-print,  however,  was  to  be  discovered  in  the 
coarse  gravel  with  which  the  plain  was  covered. 

Hunger  now  began  to  cause  more  uneasiness  than  the  appre- 
hensions of  surrounding  enemies.  After  marching  a  few  miles 
they  encamped  at  the  foot  of  a  mountain,  in  hopes  of  finding 
buffalo.  It  was  not  until  the  next  day  that  tlsey  discovered  a 
pair  of  fine  bulls  on  the  edge  of  the  plain,  among  rocks  and 
ravines.  Having  now  been  two  days  and  a  half  without  a  mouth- 
ful of  food,  they  took  especial  care  that  these  animals  should  not 
escape  them.     While  some  of  the  surest  marksmen  advanced 


140 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


cautiously  with  their  rifles  into  the  rough  ground,  four  of  the 
best  mounted  horsemen  took  their  stations  in  the  plain,  to  run 
the  bulls  down  should  they  only  be  maimed. 

The  buffalo  were  wounded,  and  set  ofif  in  headlong  flight. 
The  half-famished  horses  were  too  weak  to  overtake  them  on  the 
frozen  ground,  but  succeeded  in  driving  them  on  the  ice,  where 
they  slipped  and  fell,  and  were  easily  dispatched.  The  hunters 
loaded  themselves  with  beef  for  present  and  future  supply,  and 
then  returned  and  encamped  at  the  last  night's  fire.  Here  they 
passed  the  remainder  of  the  day,  cooking  and  eating  with  a  vo- 
racity proportioned  to  previous  starvation  ;  forgetting  in  the 
hearty  revel  of  the  moment,  the  certain  dangers  with  which  they 
were  environed. 

The  cravings  of  hunger  being  satisfied,  they  now  began  to 
debate  about  their  further  progress.  The  men  were  much  dis- 
heartened by  the  hardships  they  had  already  endured.  Indeed, 
two  who  had  been  in  the  rear  guard,  taking  advantage  of  their 
position,  had  deserted  and  returned  to  the  lodges  of  the  Nez 
Perces.  The  prospect  ahead  was  enough  to  stagger  the  stoutest 
heart.  They  were  in  the  dead  of  winter.  As  far  as  the  eye 
could  reach  the  wild  landscape  was  wrapped  in  snow  ;  which  was 
evidently  deepening  as  tbcy  advanced.  Over  this  they  would 
have  to  toil,  with  the  icy  wind  blowing  in  their  faces  :  their  horses 
might  give  out  through  want  of  pasturage  ;  and  they  themselves 
must  expect  intervals  of  horrible  famine  like  that  they  had 
already  experienced. 

With  Captain  Bonneville,  however,  perseverance  was  a  mat- 
ter of  pride  ;  and  having  undertaken  this  enterprise,  nothing 
could  turn  him  back  until  it  was  accorr/plished  :  though  he  de- 
clares that,  had  he  anticipated  the  difficulties  and    sutferings 


A  FREEZING  MARCH. 


Ul 


k 


which  attended  it,  he  should  have  flinched  from  the  under- 
taking. 

Onward,  therefore,  the  little  band  urged  their  way,  keeping 
along  the  course  of  a  stream  called  John  Day's  creek.  The  cold 
was  so  intense  that  they  had  frequently  to  dismount  and  travel 
on  foot,  lest  they  should  freeze  in  their  saddles.  The  days, 
which,  at  this  season,  are  short  enough  even  in  the  open  prairies, 
were  narrowed  to  a  few  hours  by  the  high  mountains,  which  al- 
lowed the  travellers  but  a  brief  enjoyment  of  the  cheering  rays 
of  the  sun.  The  snow  was,  generally,  at  least  twenty  inches  in 
depth,  and  in  many  places  much  more :  those  who  dismounted 
had  to  bea'  'eir  way  with  toilsome  steps.  Eight  miles  were 
considered  J  lay's  journey.     The  horses  were  almost  fam- 

ished ;  for  tuw  iierbage  was  covered  by  the  deep  snow,  so  that 
they  had  nothing  to  subsist  upon  but  scanty  whisps  of  the  dry 
bunch  grass  which  peered  above  the  surface,  and  the  small 
branches  and  twigs  of  frozen  willows  and  wormwood. 

In  this  way  they  urged  their  slow  and  painful  course  to  the 
south,  down  John  Day's  creek,  until  it  lost  itself  in  a  swamp. 
Here  they  encamped  upon  the  ice  among  stiffened  willows,  where 
they  were  obliged  to  beat  down  and  clear  away  the  snow  to  pro- 
cure pasturage  for  their  horses. 

Hence,  they  toiled  on  to  God  in  River ;  so  called  after  an 
Iroquois  hunter  in  the  service  of  Sublette,  who  was  murdered 
there  by  the  Blackfeet.  Many  of  the  features  of  this  remote 
wilderness  are  thus  named  after  scenes  of  violence  and  bloodshed 
that  occurred  to  the  early  pioneers.  It  was  an  act  of  filial  ven- 
geance on  the  part  of  Godin's  son,  Antoine,  that,  as  the  reader 
may  recollect,  brought  on  the  recent  battle  at  Pierre's  Hole. 

From  Godin's  River,  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  followers 


143 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


came  out  upon  the  plain  of  the  Three  Butes ;  so  called  from 
three  singular  and  isolated  hills  that  rise  from  the  midst.  It  is 
a  part  of  the  great  desert  of  Snake  River,  one  of  the  most  remark- 
able tracts  beyond  the  mountains.  Could  they  have  experienced 
a  respite  from  their  sufferings  and  anxieties,  the  immense  land- 
scape spread  out  before  them  was  calculated  to  inspire  admira- 
tion. Winter  has  its  beauties  and  glories,  as  well  as  summer ;  and 
Captain  Bonneville  had  the  soul  to  appreciate  them. 

Far  away,  says  he,  over  the  vast  plains,  and  up  the  steep  .'sides 
of  the  lofty  mountains,  the  snow  lay  spread  in  dazzling  white- 
ness :  and  whenever  the  sun  emerged  in  the  morning  above  the 
giant  peaks,  or  burst  forth  from  among  clouds  in  his  mid-day 
course,  mountain  arid  dell,  glazed  rock  and  frosted  tree,  glowed 
and  sparkled  with  surpassing  lustre.  The  tall  pines  seemed 
sprinkled  with  a  silver  dust,  and  the  willows,  studded  with  minute 
icicles  reflecting  the  prismatic  rays,  brought  to  mind  the  fairy 
trees  conjured  up  by  the  caliph's  story-teller,  to  adorn  his  vale  of 
diamonds. 

The  poor  wanderers,  however,  nearly  starved  with  hunger  and 
cold,  were  in  no  mood  to  enjoy  the  glories  of  these  brilliant 
scenes  ;  though  they  stamped  pictures  on  their  memory,  which 
have  been  recalled  with  delight  in  more  genial  situations. 

Encamping  at  the  west  Bute,  they  found  a  place  swept  by  the 
winds,  so  that  it  was  bare  of  snow,  and  there  was  abundance  of 
bunch  grass.  Here  the  horses  were  turned  loose  to  graze  through- 
out the  night.  Though  for  once  they  had  ample  pastuarage,  yet 
the  keen  winds  were  so  intense,  that,  in  the  morning,  a  mule  was 
found  frozen  to  death.  The  trappers  gathered  round  and  mourn- 
ed over  him  as  over  a  cherished  friend.  They  feared  their  half- 
famished  horses  would  soon  share  his  fate,  for  there  seemed  scarce 


THE  WARY  HORSEMAN. 


143 


.\fc 


and 


blood  enough  left  in  their  veins  to  withstand  the  freezing  cold. 
To  beat  the  way  further  through  the  snow  with  these  enfeebled 
animals,  seemed  next  to  impossible  ;  and  despondency  began  to 
creep  over  their  hearts,  when,  fortunately,  they  discovered  a  trail 
made  by  some  hunting  party.  Into  this  they  immediately  en- 
tered, and  proceeded  with  less  difficulty.  Shortly  afterward,  a 
fine  buffalo  bull  came  bounding  across  the  snow,  and  was  instantly 
brought  down  by  the  hunters.  A  fire .  was  soon  blazing  and 
crackling,  and  an  ample  repast  soon  cooked,  and  sooner  dis- 
patched, after  which,  they  made  some  further  progress  and  then 
encamped.  One  of  the  men  reached  the  camp  nearly  frozen  to 
death ;  but  good  cheer  and  a  blazing  fire  gradually  restored  life, 
and  put  his  blood  in  circulation. 

Having  now  a  beaten  path,  they  proceeded  the  next  morning 
with  more  facility  ;  indeed,  the  snow  decreased  in  depth  as  they 
receded  from  the  mountains,  and  the  temperature  became  more 
mild.  In  the  course  of  the  day,  they  discovered  a  solitary  horse- 
man hovering  at  a  distance  before  them  on  the  plain.  They 
spurred  on  to  overtake  him ;  but  he  was  better  mounted  on  a 
fresher  steed,  and  kept  at  a  wary  distance,  reconnoitring  them 
with  evident  distrust ;  for  tae  wild  dress  of  the  free  trappers, 
their  leggins,  blankets,  and  cloth  caps  garnished  with  fur  and 
topped  off  with  feathers,  even  their  very  elf-locks  and  weather- 
bronzed  complexions,  gave  them  the  look  of  Indians  rather  than 
white  men,  and  made  him  mistake  them  for  a  war  party  of  some 
hostile  tribe. 

After  much  manoeuvring,  the  wild  horseman  was  at  length 
brought  to  a  parley  ;  but  even  then  he  conducted  himself  with 
the  caution  of  a  knowing  prowler  of  the  prairias.  Dismounting 
from  his  horse,  and  using  him  as  a  breastwork,  he  levelled  his 


144 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


t 


gun  across  his  back,  and,  thus  prepared  for  defence,  like  a  wary 
cruiser  upon  the  high  seas,  he  permitted  himself  to  be  approached 
within  speaking  distance. 

He  proved  to  be  an  Indian  of  the  Banneck  tribe,  belonging 
to  a  band  at  no  great  distance.  It  was  some  time  bofore  he 
could  be  persuaded  that  he  was  conversing  with  a  party  of  white 
men,  and  induced  to  lay  aside  his  reserve  and  join  them.  He 
then  gave  them  the  interesting  intelligence,  that  there  were  two 
companies  of  white  men  encamped  in  the  neighborhood.  This 
was  cheering  news  to  Captain  Bonneville ;  who  hoped  to  find  in 
one  of  them  the  long-sought  party  of  Matthieu.  Pushing  for- 
ward, therefore,  with  renovated  spirits,  he  reached  Snake  River 
by  nightfall,  and  ^herc  fixed  his  encampment. 

Early  the  next  morning  (13th  January,  1833),  diligent  search 
was  made  about  the  neighborhood  for  traces  of  the  reported  par- 
ties of  white  men.  An  encampment  was  soon  discovered,  about 
four  miles  further  up  the  river  ;  in  which  Captain  Bonneville,  to 
his  great  joy,  found  two  of  Matthieu's  men,  from  whom  he  learnt 
that  the  rest  of  his  party  would  be  there  in  the  course  of  a  few 
days.  It  was  a  matter  of  great  pride  and  self-gratulation  to 
Captain  Bonneville,  that  he  had  thus  accomplished  his  dreary 
and  doubtful  enterprise ;  and  he  determined  to  pass  some  time 
in  this  encampment,  both  to  await  the  return  of  Matthieu,  and  to 
give  needful  repose  to  men  and  horses. 

It  was,  in  fact,  one  of  the  most  eligible  and  delightful  win- 
tering grounds  in  that  whole  range  of  country.  The  Snake 
Biver  here  wound  its  devious  way  between  low  banks  through 
the  great  plain  of  the  Three  Butes ;  and  was  bordered  by  wide 
and  fertile  meadows.  It  was  studded  with  islands,  which,  like 
the  alluvial  bottoms,  were  covered  with  groves  of  cotton-wood, 


ENCAMPMENT  ON  SNAKE  RIVER. 


145 


thickets  of  willow,  tracts  of  good  lowland  grass,  and  abundance 
of  green  rushes.  The  adjacent  plains  were  so  vast  in  extent,  that 
no  single  band  of  Indians  could  drive  the  buifalo  out  of  them ; 
nor  was  the  snow  of  sufficient  depth  t  >  give  any  serious  inconve- 
nience. Indeed,  during  the  sojoum  of  Captain  Bonneville  in 
this  neighborhood,  which  was  in  the  heart  of  winter,  he  found  the 
weather,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  cold  and  stormy  days,  gene- 
rally mild  and  pleasant ;  freezing  a  little  at  night,  but  invariably 
thawing  with  the  morning's  sun — resembling  the  spring  weather 
iy  the  middle  parts  of  the  United  States. 

The  lofty  range  of  the  Three  Tetons,  those  great  landmarks 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  rising  in  the  east,  and  circling  away  to 
the  north  and  west  of  the  great  plain  of  Snake  River ;  and  the 
mountains  of  Salt  River  and  Portncuf  towards  the  south,  catch 
the  earliest  falls  of  snow.  Their  white  robes  lengthen  as  the 
winter  advances,  and  spread  themselves  far  into  the  plain,  driving 
the  buffalo  in  herds  to  the  banks  of  the  river  in  quest  of  food ; 
where  they  are  easily  slain  in  great  numbers. 

Such  were  the  palpable  advantages  of  this  winter  encamp- 
ment; added  to  which,  it  was  secure  from  the  prowlings  and 
plunderings  of  any  petty  band  of  roving  Blackfeet ;  the  difficul- 
ties of  retreat  rendering  it  unwise  for  those  crafty  depredators  to 
venture  an  attack,  unless  with  an  overpowering  force. 

About  ten  miles  below  the  encpmpment  lay  the  Banneck 
Indians ;  numbering  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  lodges.  They 
are  brave  and  cunning  warriors,  and  deadly  foes  of  the  Blackfeet ; 
whom  they  easily  overcome  in  battles  where  their  forces  are  equal. 
They  are  not  vengeful  and  enterprising  in  warfare,  however; 
seldom  sending  war  parties  to  attack  the  Blackfeet  towns,  but 
contenting  themselves  with  defending  their  own  territories  and 

7 


I 

1 


146 


BONNRVIIiliE'S  ADVENTURES. 


•• 


homes.  About  one-third  of  their  warriors  are  armed  with  fusees ; 
the  rest  with  bows  and  arrows. 

As  soon  as  the  spring  opens,  they  move  down  the  right  bank 
of  Snake  River,  and  encamp  at  the  heads  of  the  Boisue  and  Pay- 
ette. Here  their  horses  wax  fat  on  good  pasturage,  while  the 
tribe  revels  in  plenty  upon  the  flesh  of  deer,  elk,  bear,  and  bea- 
Ter.  They  then  descend  a  little  further,  and  are  met  by  the 
Lower  Nez  Percrs,  with  whom  they  trade  for  horses ;  giving  in 
exchange  beaver,  buffalo,  and  buffalo  robes.  Hence  they  strike 
upon  the  tributary  streams  on  the  left  bank  of  Snake  River,  aivd 
encamp  at  the  rise  of  the  Portneuf  and  Blackfoot  streams,  in  the 
buffalo  range.  Their  horses,  although  of  the  Nez  Perce  breed,  are 
inferior  to  the  parbnt  stock,  from  being  ridden  at  too  early  an 
age;  being  often  bought  when  but  two  years  old,  and  imme- 
diately put  to  hard  work.  They  have  fewer  horses,  also,  than 
most  of  these  migratory  tribes. 

At  the  time  that  Captain  Bonneville  came  into  the  neighbor- 
hood of  these  Indians,  they  were  all  in  mourning  for  their  chief, 
surnamed  The  Horse.  This  chief  was  said  to  possess  a  charmed 
life,  or  rather,  to  be  invulnerable  to  lead  ;  no  bullet  having  ever 
hit  him,  though  he  had  been  in  repeated  battles,  and  often  shot 
at  by  the  surest  marksmen.  He  had  shown  great  magnanimity 
in  his  intercourse  with  the  white  men.  One  of  the  great  men  of 
his  family  had  been  slain  in  an  attack  upon  a  band  of  trappers 
passing  through  the  territories  of  his  tribe.  Vengeance  had  been 
sworn  by  the  Bannecks;  but  The  Horse  interfered,  declaring 
himself  the  friend  of  white  men,  and,  having  great  influence  and 
authority  among  his  people,  he  compelled  them  to  forego  all  vin- 
dictive plans,  and  to  conduct  themselves  amicably  whenever  they 
came  in  contact  with  the  traders. 


THE  HORSE  CHIEF. 


147 


This  chief  had  bravely  fallen  in  resisting  an  attack  made  by 
the  Blackfeet  upon  his  tribe,  while  encamped  at  the  head  of  Go- 
din  llivcr.  His  fall  in  nowise  lessened  the  faith  of  his  people  in 
his  charmed  life ;  for  they  declared  that  it  was  not  a  bullet  which 
laid  him  low,  but  a  bit  of  horn  which  had  been  shot  into  him  by 
some  Blackfoot  marksman  ;  aware,  no  doubt,  of  the  ineflScaoy  of 
lead.  Since  his  death,  there  was  no  one  with  sufficient  influence 
over  the  tribe  to  restrain  the  wild  and  predatory  propensities  of 
the  young  men.  The  consequence  was,  they  had  become  trouble- 
some and  dangerous  neighbors  ;  openly  friendly,  for  the  sake  of 
traffic,  but  disposed  to  commit  secret  depredations,  and  to  molest 
any  small  party  that  might  fall  within  their  reach. 


"  f , 


1 

1 


148 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


.1 


^f 


1^   {* 


K   (. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Misadventures  of  Matthieu  and  his  party. — Return  to  the  caches  at  Salmon 
River. — Battle  between  Nez  Perc<;s  and  Blackfeet. — Heroism  of  a  Nez 
Perce  woman — enrolled  among  the  braves. 

On  the  3d  of  February,  Matthieu,  with  the  residue  of  his  band, 
arrived  in  camp.  He  had  a  disastrous  story  to  relate.  After 
parting  with  Captain  Bonneville  in  Green  River  valley,  he  had 
proceeded  to  the  westward,  keeping  to  the  north  of  the  Eutaw 
Mountains,  a  spur  of  the  great  Rocky  chain.  Here  he  experi; 
cnced  the  most  rugged  travelling  for  his  horses,  and  soon  discor- 
ered  that  there  was  but  little  chance  of  meeting  the  Shoshohie 
bands.  He  now  proceeded  along  Bear  River,  a  stream  much  fre- 
quented by  trappers ;  intending  to  shape  his  course  to  Salmon 
River,  to  rejoin  Captain  Bonneville. 

He  was  misled,  however,  either  through  the  ignorance  or 
treachery  of  an  Indian  guide,  and  conducted  into  a  wild  valley, 
where  he  lay  encamped  during  the  autumn  and  the  early  part  of 
the  winter,  nearly  buried  in  snow,  and  almost  starved.  Early  in 
the  season  he  detached  five  men,  with  nine  horses,  to  proceed  to 
the  neighborhood  of  the  Sheep  Rock,  on  Bear  River,  where  game 
was  plenty,  and  there  to  procure  a  supply  for  the  camp.  They 
had  not  proceeded  far  on  their  expedition,  when  their  trail  was 
discovered  by  a  party  of  nine  or  ten  Indians,  who  immediately 


fl 


ENCOUNTER  WITH  SAVAGES. 


149 


ranee  or 


commenced  a  lurking  pursuit,  dogging  them  secretly  for  five  or 
six  days.  So  long  as  their  encampments  were  well  chosen,  and 
a  proper  watch  maintained,  the  wary  savages  kept  aloof;  at 
length,  observing  that  they  were  badly  encamped,  in  a  situation 
where  they  might  be  approached  with  secrecy,  the  enemy  crept 
stealthily  along  under  cover  of  the  river  bank,  preparing  to  burst 
suddenly  upon  their  prey. 

They  had  not  advanced  within  striking  distance,  however,  be- 
fore tlicy  were  discovered  by  one  of  the  trappers.  He  immedi- 
ately, but  silently,  gave  the  alarm  to  his  companions.  They  all 
sprang  upon  their  horses,  and  prepared  to  retreat  to  a  safe  posi- 
tion. One  of  the  party,  however,  named  Jennings,  doubted  the 
correctness  of  the  alarm,  and,  before  he  mounted  his  horse, 
wanted  to  ascertain  the  fact.  His  companions  urged  him  to 
mount,  but  in  vain  ;  he  was  incredulous  and  obstinate.  A  volley 
pf  firearms  by  the  savages  dispelled  his  doubts  ;  but  so  overpow- 
ered his  nerves,  that  he  was  unable  to  get  into  his  saddle.  His 
comrades,  seeing  his  peril  and  confusion,  generously  leapt  from 
their  horses  to  protect  him.  A  shot  from  a  rifle  brought  him  to 
the  earth  ;  in  his  agony  he  called  upon  the  others  not  to  desert 
him.  Two  of  them,  Le  Roy  and  Ross,  after  fighting  desperately, 
were  captured  by  the  savages ;  the  remaining  two  vaulted  into 
their  saddles,  and  saved  themselves  by  headlong  flight,  being  pur- 
sued for  nearly  thirty  miles.  They  got  safe  back  to  Matthieu's 
camp,  where  their  story  inspired  such  dread  of  lurking  Indians, 
that  the  hunters  could  not  be  prevailed  upon  to  undertake  another 
foray  in  quest  of  provisions.  They  remained,  therefore,  almost 
starving  in  their  camp  ;  now  and  then  killing  an  old  or  disabled 
horse  for  food,  while  the  elk  and  the  mountain  sheep  roamed  un- 
molested among  the  surrounding  mountains. 


160 


nONNRVII.LF/a  ADVtiNTURES. 


1 


1^ 


IJ 


r  J 


Tho  disastrous  Hurprlsal  of  this  Imnting  party  is  cited  by 
Captain  Bontiovlllc  to  whow  tho  iinportanco  of  vigilant  watching 
and  judicious  encampments  in  the  Indian  country.  Most  of 
these  kind  of  disasters  to  traders  and  trappers  arise  from  some 
careless  inattention  to  tho  state  of  their  arms  and  ammunition, 
tho  placing  of  their  horses  at  night,  tho  position  of  their  camping 
ground,  and  the  posting  of  their  night  watches.  The  Indian  is 
a  vigilant  and  crafty  foe  ;  by  no  means  given  to  harebrained  as- 
saults ;  he  seldom  attacks  when  lie  finds  his  foe  well  prepared 
and  on  the  alert.  Caution  is  at  least  as  efficacious  a  protection 
against  him  as  courage. 

The  Indians  who  made  this  attack  were  at  first  supposed  to 
be  Blackfeet ;  until  Captain  Bonneville  found,  subsequently,  in 
the  camp  of  the  Bannocks  a  horse,  saddle,  and  bridle,  which  ho 
recognized  as  having  belonged  to  one  of  the  hunters.  The  Ban- 
necks,  however,  stoutly  denied  having  taken  these  spoils  in  fight, 
and  persisted  in  affirming  that  the  outrage  had  been  perpetrated 
by  a  Blackfoot  band. 

Captain  Bonneville  remained  on  Snake  River  nearly  three 
weeks  after  the  arrival  of  Matthieu  and  his  party.  At  length  his 
horses  having  recovered  strength  sufficient  for  a  journey,  he  pre- 
pared to  return  to  the  Nez  Perci's,  or  rather  to  visit  his  caches  on 
Salmon  River ;  that  he  might  take  thence  goods  and  equipments 
for  the  opening  season.  Accordingly,  leaving  sixteen  men  at 
Snake  River,  he  set  out,  on  the  19th  February,  with  sixteen  others, 
on  his  journey  to  the  caches. 

Fording  the  river,  he  proceeded  to  tho  borders  of  the  deep 
snow,  when  he  encamped  under  the  lee  of  immense  piles  of  burnt 
rock.  On  the  21st  he  was  again  floundering  through  the  snow, 
on  the  great  Snake  River  plain,  where  it  lay  to  the  depth  of 


th 

hi 

Ht 

it 


wi 

•si 


GODIN   RIVER. 


151 


9  cited  by 
b  watohing 
Most  of 
Tom  8omo 
imunition, 
r  caini>ii)g 
Indian  is 
[•aincd  as- 
prepared 
)rotectiou 

jposfid  to 
iiently,  in 
which  ho 
rho  Ban- 
in  fight, 
'petrated 

rly  three 
ingth  his 

he  pre- 
'■aches  on 
lipments 

men  at 
1  others, 

he  deep 
f  burnt 
le  snow, 
epth  of 


thirty  inches.  It  was  sufficiently  incrusted  to  bear  a  pedestrian ; 
but  the  poor  horses  broke  through  the  crust,  and  plunged  and 
straiiiitl  at  every  step.  So  lacerated  were  they  by  the  ice,  that 
it  was  necessary  to  change  the  front  every  hundred  yards,  and 
put  a  different  one  in  the  advance,  to  break  the  woy.  Th»f  open 
prairies  were  swept  by  a  piercing  and  litimg  wind  from  tin  nortii- 
west.  At  night,  they  had  to  task  their  ir/^riuiiv  to  p»fTV'M«j 
shelter  and  keep  from  freezing.  In  the  first  place,  t'.xjy  dug  deep 
holes  in  the  snow,  piling  it  up  in  ramparts  to  '.vi.idwanl  as  a 
protection  against  the  blast.  Beneath  these,  ihcy  sprcatl  bulfaio 
skins  ;  upon  which  they  stretched  theniselvos  ia  full  (\x<fm^  rath 
caps,  cloaks,  and  moccasons,  and  covered  tlioinpolvcs  witl'  nuiwe- 
rous  blankets ;  notwithstanding  all  which,  they  were  oft  ..i  i?cv.. relj' 
pinched  with  the  cold. 

On  the  28th  of  February,  they  arrix'od  on  the  banks  of  Godio 
River.  This  stream  emerges  from  the  mountains  opposite  rm 
eastern  branch  of  the  Malade  River,  running  Hout.htaLi,  forms  a 
deep  and  swift  current  about  twenty  yards  wide,  paSMinfL,  rapidl;/ 
through  a  defile  to  which  it  gives  its  nanje,  and  then  enters  \)iO. 
great  plain,  where,  after  meandering  about  forty  miles,  it  is  finally 
lost  in  the  region  of  the  Burnt  Rocks. 

On  the  banks  of  this  river,  Captain  Bonnovi'le  was  so  fortu- 
nate as  to  come  upon  a  buffalo  trail.  Following  iv  up,  bo  en- 
tered the  defile,  where  he  remained  t;ricftj[iped  for  two  days,  to 
allow  the  hunters  time  to  kill  and  '•y  a  su-oply  of  buffalo  beef. 
In  this  sheltered  defile,  the  vrt'fvther  was  moderate,  and  grass  was 
already  sprouting  m'>ve  '.ban  an  inch  in  height.  There  was  abun- 
dance, too,  of  the  salt  weed  ;  which  grows  most  plentiful  in  clayey 
and  gravelly  barrens.  It  resembles  pennyroyal,  and  derives  its 
name  from  a  partial  saltness.     It  is  a  nourishing  food  for  the 


152 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


^1 


[      t 
if 

V       ' 


'   ii 


nf 


horses  in  the  winter,  but  they  reject  it  the  moment  the  young 
grass  alFords  sufficient  pasturage. 

On  the  6th  of  March,  having  cured  sufficient  meat,  the  party 
resumed  their  march,  and  moved  on  with  comparative  ease,  ex- 
cepting where  they  had  to  make  their  way  through  snow-drifts 
which  had  been  piled  up  by  the  wind.  ,; 

On  the  11th,  a  small  cloud  of  smoke  was  observed  rising  in 
a  deep  part  of  the  defile.  An  encampment  was  instantly  formed, 
and  scouts  were  sent  out  to  reconnoitre.  They  returned  with 
intelligence  that  it  was  a  hunting  party  of  Flatheads,  returning 
from  the  buffiilo  range  laden  with  meat.  Captain  Bonneville  joined 
them  the  next  day,  and  persuaded  them  to  proceed  with  his  party 
a  few  miles  below,,  to  the  caches,  whither  he  proposed  also  to  in- 
vite the  Nez  Perces,  whom  he  hoped  to  find  somewhere  in  this 
neighborhood.  In  fact,  on  the  13th,  he  was  rejoined  by  that 
friendly  tribe,  who,  since  he  separated  from  them  on  Salmon  El- 
ver, had  likewise  been  out  to  hunt  the  buflFalo,  but  had  continued 
to  be  haunted  and  harassed  by  their  old  enemies  the  Blackfeet, 
who,  as  usual,  had  connived  to  carry  off  many  of  their  horses. 

In  the  course  of  this  hunting  expedition,  a  small  band  of  ten 
lodges  separated  from  the  main  body,  in  search  of  better  pastur- 
age for  their  horses.  About  the  1st  of  March,  the  scattered  par- 
ties of  Blaekfoot  banditti  united  to  the  number  of  three  hundred 
fighting  men,  and  determined  upon  some  signal  blow.  Proceed- 
ing to  the  former  camping  ground  of  the  Nez  Perces,  they  found 
the  lodges  deserted ;  upon  which,  they  hid  themselves  among  the 
willows  and  thickets,  watching  for  some  straggler,  who  might 
guide  them  to  the  present  "whereabout"  of  their  intended  vic- 
tims. As  fortune  would  have  it,  Kosato,  the  Blaekfoot  renegade, 
was  the  first  to  pass  along,  accompanied  by  his  blood-bought 


( 


s 


s 
b 
s 

\ 
1 


}' 


AN   INDIAN   HEROINE. 


153 


the  young 

,  the  party 
I  ease,  ex- 
now-drifts 

rising  in 
ly  formed, 
rned  with 
returning 
ille  joined 
his  party 
ilso  to  in- 
re  in  this 

by  that 
ilmon  Ri- 
ontinued 
Jlackfeet, 
lorses. 
id  of  ten 
r  pastur- 
jred  par- 
hundred 
?roceed- 
!y  found 
long  the 
a  might 
led  vic- 
negade, 

bought 


bride.  He  was  on  his  way  from  the  main  body  of  hunters  to  the 
little  band  of  ten  lodges.  The  Blackfeet  knew  and  marked  him 
as  he  passed  ;  he  was  within  bowshot  of  their  ambuscade  ;  yet, 
much  as  they  thirsted  for  his  blood,  they  forbore  to  launch  a 
shaft ;  sparing  him  for  the  moment,  that  he  might  lead  them  to 
their  prey.  Secretly  following  his  trail,  they  discovered  the 
lodges  of  the  unfortunate  Nez  Percys,  and  assailed  them  with 
shouts  and  yellings.  The  Nez  Perci's  numbered  only  twenty  men, 
and  but  nine  were  armed  with  fusees.  They  showed  themselves, 
however,  as  brave  and  skilful  in  war  as  they  had  been  mild  and 
long-suffering  in  peace.  Their  first  care  was  to  dig  holes  inside 
of  their  lodges  ;  thus  ensconced,  they  fought  desperately,  laying 
several  of  the  enemy  dead  upon  the  ground  ;  while  they,  though 
some  of  them  were  wounded,  lost  not  a  single  warrior. 

During  the  heat  of  the  battle,  a  woman  of  the  Nez  Perces, 
seeing  her  warrior  badly  wounded  and  unable  to  fight,  seized  his 
bow  and  arrows,  and  bravely  and  successfully  defended  his  per- 
son, contributing  to  the  safety  of  the  whole  party. 

In  another  part  of  the  field  of  action,  a  Nez  Perce  had  crouched 
behind  the  trunk  of  a  fallen  tree,  and  kept  up  a  galling  fire  from 
his  covert.  A  Blackfoot  seeing  this,  procured  a  round  log,  and 
placing  it  before  him  as  he  lay  prostrate,  rolled  it  forward  to- 
wards the  trunk  of  the  tree  behini  which  his  enemy  lay  crouched. 
It  was  a  moment  of  breathless  interest :  whoever  first  showed 
himself  would  be  in  danger  of  a  shot.  The  Nez  Percu  put  an 
end  to  the  suspense.  The  moment  the  logs  touched,  he  sprang 
upon  his  feet,  and  discharged  the  contents  of  his  fusee  into  the 
back  of  his  antagonist.  By  this  time,  the  Blackfeet  had  got  pos- 
session of  the  horses  ;  several  of  their  warriors  lay  dead  on  the 
field,  and  the  Nez  Percus,  ensconced  in  their  lodges,  seemed  re- 

7* 


154 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


It 


\ 


I 


solved  to  defend  themselves  to  the  last  gasp.  It  so  happened 
that  the  chief  of  the  Blackfeet  party  was  a  renegade  from  the 
Nez  Perec's  ;  unlike  Kosato,  however,  he  had  no  vindictive  rage 
against  his  native  tribe,  but  was  rather  disposed,  now  he  had  got 
the  booty,  to  spare  all  unnecessary  effusion  of  blood.  He  held  a 
long  parley,  therefore,  with  the  besieged,  and  finally  drew  off  his 
warriors,  taking  with  him  seventy  horses.  It  appeared,  after- 
wards, that  the  bullets  of  the  Blackfeet  had  been  entirely  ex- 
pended in  the  course  of  the  battle,  so  that  they  were  obliged  to 
make  use  of  stones  as  substitutes. 

At  the  outset  of  the  fight,  Kosato,  the  renegade,  fought  with 
fury  rather  than  valor  :  animating  the  others  by  word  as  well  as 
deed.  A  wound'  in  the  head  from  a  rifle  ball  laid  him  senseless 
on  the  earth.  There  his  body  remained  when  the  battle  was  over, 
and  the  victors  were  loading  ofi'the  horses.  His  wife  h^ing  over 
him  with  frantic  lamentations.  The  conquerors  paused  and  urged 
her  to  leave  the  lifeless  renegade,  and  return  with  them  to  her 
kindred.  She  refused  to  listen  to  their  solicitations,  and  they 
passed  on.  As  she  sat  watching  the  features  of  Kosato,  and 
giving  way  to  passionate  grief,  she  thought  she  perceived  him  to 
breathe.  She  was  not  mistaken.  The  ball,  which  had  been  nearly 
spent  before  it  struck  him,  had  stunned  instead  of  killing  him. 
By  the  ministry  of  his  faithful  wife,  he  gradually  recovered  ;  ve- 
viving  to  a  redoubled  love  for  her,  and  hatred  of  his  tribe. 

As  to  the  female  who  had  so  bravely  defended  her  husband, 
she  was  elevated  by  the  tribe  to  a  rank  far  above  her  sex,  and, 
beside  other  honorable  distinctions,  was  thenceforward  permitted 
to  take  a  part  in  the  war  dances  of  the  braves  ! 


I  ( -         "^^ 


OPENING  OF  THE  CACHES. 


155 


happened 
i  from  the 
ictive  rage 
he  had  got 
He  held  a 
rew  off  his 
ired,  after- 
Qtirely  ex- 
obliged  to 

)ught  with 

as  well  as 

.  senseless 

B  was  over, 

hung  over 

and  urged 

em  to  her 

and  they 

osato,  and 

ed  him  to 

3en  nearly 

ling  him. 

ered  ;  ve- 

ibe. 

husband, 
sex,  and, 
jermitted 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

Opening  of  the  caches. — Detachments  of  Cerr^and  Hodgkiss. — Salmon  River 
mountains. — Superstition  of  an  Indian  trapper. — Godin's  River. — Prepara- 
tions for  trapping. — An  alarm. — An  interruption. — A  rival  band. — Pheno- 
mena of  Snake  River  plain. — Vast  clefts  and  chasms. — Ingulfed  streams.— 
Sublime  scenery. — A  grand  buffalo  hunt. 

Captain  Bonneville  found  his  caches  perfectly  secure,  and 
having  secretly  opened  them,  he  selected  such  articles  as  were 
necessary  to  equip  the  free  trappers,  and  to  supply  the  inconsi- 
derable trade  with  the  Indians,  after  which  he  closed  them  again. 
The  free  trappers  being  newly  rigged  out  and  supplied,  were  in 
high  spirits,  and  swaggered  gayly  about  the  camp.  To  compen- 
sate all  hands  for  past  sufferings,  and  to  give  a  cheerful  spur  to 
further  operations,  Captain  Bonneville  now  gave  the  men  what, 
in  frontier  phrase,  is  termed  "a  regular  blow  out."  It  was  a  day 
of  uncouth  gambols  and  frolics,  and  rude  feasting.  The  Indians 
joined  in  the  sports  and  games,  and  was  all  mirth  and  good  fel- 
lowship. 

It  was  now  the  middle  of  march,  and  Captain  Bonneville 
made  preparations  to  open  the  spring  campaign.  He  had  pitched 
upon  Malade  River  for  his  main  trapping  ground  for  the  season. 
This  is  a  stream  which  rises  among  the  great  bed  of  mountains 


156 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


^ 


f      t 


« 


north  of  the  Lava  Plain,  and  after  a  winding  course,  falls  into 
Snake  River.  Previous  to  his  departure,  the  captain  dispatched 
Mr.  Ccrru  with  a  few  men,  to  visit  the  Indian  villages  and  pur- 
chase horses  ;  he  furnished  his  clerk,  Mr.  Hodgkiss,  also,  with  a 
small  stock  of  goods,  to  keep  up  a  trade  with  the  Indians  during 
the  spring,  for  such  peltries  as  they  might  collect,  ..ppointing  the 
caches  on  Salmon  River  as  the  point  of  rendezvous,  wbere  they 
were  to  rejoin  him  on  the  15th  of  June  following.  ^ 

This  done,  he  set  out  for  Malade  River  with  a  band  of  twenty- 
eight  men,  composed  of  hired  and  free  trappers,  and  Indian  ^-int- 
ers, together  with  eight  squaws.  Their  route  lay  up  along  the 
right  fork  of  Salmon  River,  as  it  passes  through  the  deep  defile 
of  the  mountains.  They  travelled  •  f^ry  slowly,  not  above  five 
miles  a  day,  for  many  of  the  horses  were  ,sn  weak  that  they  fal- 
tered and  staggered  as  they  walked.  Pasturage,  however,  was 
now  growing  plentiful.  There  was  abundance  of  fresh  grass, 
which  in  some  places  had  attained  such  height  as  to  wave  in  the 
wind.  The  native  flocks  of  the  wilderness,  the  mountain  sheep, 
as  they  are  called  by  the  trappers,  were  continually  to  be  seen 
upon  the  hills  between  which  they  passed,  and  a  good  supply  of 
mutton  was  provided  by  the  hunters,  as  they  were  advancing  to- 
wards a  region  of  scarcity. 

In  the  course  of  his  journey,  Captain  Bonneville  had  occasion 
to  remark  an  instance  of  the  many  notions,  and  almost  supersti- 
tions, which  prevail  among  the  Indians,  and  among  some  of  the 
white  men,  with  respect  to  the  sagacity  of  the  beaver.  The  In- 
dian hunters  of  his  party  were  in  the  habit  of  exploring  all  the 
streams  along  which  they  passed,  in  search  of  "  beaver  lodges," 
and  occasionally  set  their  traps  with  some  success.  One  of  them, 
however,  though  an  experienced  and  skilful  trapper,  was  invaria- 


AN   ALARM. 


157 


falls  into 
lispatched 
!  and  pur- 
so,  with  a 
QS  during 
;nting  the 
bere  they 

* 
if  twenty- 

ian  ^'Tnt- 

ilong  the 

3ep  defile 

bove  five 

they  fal- 

sver,  was 

sh  grass, 

ve  in  the 

in  sheep, 

be  seen 

upply  of 

icing  to- 

occasion 
Jupersti- 
e  of  the 
The  In- 
all  the 
lodges," 
>f  them, 
invaria- 


bly unsuccessful.  Astonished  and  mortified  at  such  unusual  bad 
luck,  he  at  length  conceived  the  idea,  that  there  was  some  odor 
about  his  person,  of  which  the  beaver  got  scent,  and  retreated  at 
his  approach.  He  immediately  set  about  a  thorough  purification. 
Making  a  rude  sweating  house  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  he 
would  shut  himself  up  until  in  a  reeking  perspiration,  and  then 
suddenly  emerging,  would  plunge  into  the  river.  A  number  of 
these  sweatings  and  plungings  having,  as  he  supposed,  rendered 
his  person  perfectly  "  inodorous,"  he  resumed  his  trapping  with 
renovated  hope. 

About  the  beginning  of  April,  they  encamped  upon  Godin's 
River,  where  they  found  the  swamp  full  of  "  muskrat  houses." 
Here,  therefore.  Captain  Bonneville  determined  to  remain  a  few 
days  and  make  his  first  regular  attempt  at  trapping.  That  his 
maiden  campaign  might  open  with  spirit,  he  promised  the  Indians 
and  free  trappers  an  extra  price  for  every  muskrat  they  should 
take.  All  now  set  to  work  for  the  next  day's  sport.  The  utmost 
animation  and  gayety  prevailed  throughout  the  camp.  Every 
thing  looked  auspicious  for  their  spring  campaign.  The  abun- 
dance of  muskrats  in  the  swamp,  was  but  an  earnest  of  the  nobler 
game  they  were  to  find  when  they  should  reach  the  Malade  River, 
and  have  a  capital  beaver  country  all  to  themselves,  where  they 
might  trap  at  their  leisure  without  molestation. 

In  the  midst  of  their  gayety,  a  hunter  came  galloping  into 
the  camp,  shouting,  or  rather  yelling,  "  A  trail !  a  trail ! — lodge 
poles  !  lodge  poles  !" 

These  were  words  full  of  meaning  to  a  trapper's  ear.  They 
intimated  that  there  was  some  band  in  the  neighborhood,  and 
probably  a  hunting  party,  as  they  had  lodge  poles  for  an  encamp- 
ment.    The  hunter  came  up  and  told  his  story.     He  had  discov- 


158 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


l»   n 


f    > 


I.     If 

'      !! 


ered  a  fresh  trail,  in  which  the  traces  made  by  the  dragging  of 
lodge  poles  were  distinctly  visible.  The  buflFalo,  too,  had  just 
been  driven  out  of  the  neighborhood,  which  showed  that  the 
hunters  had  already  been  on  the  range. 

The  gayety  of  the  camp  was  at  an  end ;  all  preparations  for 
muskrat  trapping  were  suspended,  and  all  hands  sallied  forth  to 
examine  the  trail.  Their  worst  fears  were  soon  confirmed.  In- 
fallible signs  showed  the  unknown  party  in  the  advance  to  be 
white  men  ;  doubtless,  some  rival  band  of  trappers  !  Here  was 
competition  when  least  expected ;  and  that,  too,  by  a  party 
already  in  the  advance,  who  were  driving  the  game  before  them. 
Captain  Bonneville  had  now  a  taste  of  the  sudden  transitions  to 
which  a  trapper's  life  is  subject.  The  buoyant  confidence  in  an 
uninterrupted  hunt  was  at  an  end ;  every  countenance  lowered 
with  gloom  and  disappointment. 

Captain  Bonneville  immediately  dispatched  two  spies  to  over- 
take the  rival  party,  and  endeavor  to  learn  their  plans ;  in  the 
meantime,  he  turned  his  back  upon  the  swamp  and  its  muskrat 
houses,  and  followed  on  at  "  long  camps,"  which,  in  trapper's  lan- 
guage, is  equivalent  to  long  stages.  On  the  6th  of  April,  he  met 
his  spies  returning.  They  had  kept  on  the  trail  like  hounds, 
until  they  overtook  the  party  at  the  south  end  of  Godin's  defile. 
Here  they  found  them  comfortably  encamped,  twenty-two  prime 
trappers,  all  well  appointed,  with  excellent  horses  in  capital  con- 
dition, led  by  Milton  Sublette,  and  an  able  coadjutor,  named 
Jarvie,  and  in  full  mai'ch  for  the  Malade  hunting  ground. 

This  was  stunning  news.  The  Malade  River  was  the  only 
trapping  ground  within  reach ;  but  to  have  to  compete  there  with 
veteran  trappers,  perfectly  at  home  among  the  mountains,  and 
admirably  mounted,  while  they  were  so  poorly  provided  with 


A  RIVAL  BAND. 


159 


Iragging  of 

I  had  just 

t'hat   the 

ations  for 
d  forth  to 
med.     In- 
nce  to  be 
Here  was 
a   party 
3re  them, 
sitions  to 
ice  in  an 
3  lowered 

3  to  over- 
in  the 
muskrat 

)er's  Ian-  . 
he  met 
hounds, 
s  defile. 

0  prime 

tal  con- 
named 

le  only 
ire  with 
IS,  and 
id  with 


horses  and  trappers,  and  had  but  one  man  in  their  party 
acquainted  with  the  country — it  was  out  of  the  question  ! 

The  only  hope  that  now  remained,  was  that  the  snow,  which 
still  lay  deep  among  the  mountains  of  Godin  River,  and  blocked 
up  the  usual  pass  to  the  Malade  country,  might  detain  the  other 
party,  until  Captain  Bonneville's  horses  should  get  once  more 
into  good  condition  in  their  present  ample  pasturage. 

The  rival  parties  now  encamped  together,  not  out  of  compan- 
ionship, but  to  keep  an  eye  upon  each  other.  Day  after  day 
passed  by,  without  any  possibility  of  getting  to  the  Malade 
country.  Sublette  and  Jarvie  endeavored  to  force  their  way 
across  the  mountain ;  but  the  snows  lay  so  deep  as  to  oblige 
them  to  turn  back.  In  the  meantime,  the  captain's  horses  were 
daily  gaining  strength,  and  their  hoofs  improving,  which  had 
been  worn  and  battered  by  mountain  service.  The  captain,  also, 
was  increasing  his  stock  of  provisions,  so  that  the  delay  was  all 
in  his  favor. 

To  any  one  who  merely  contemplates  a  map  of  the  country, 
this  difficulty  of  getting  from  Godin  to  Malade  River  will  appear 
inexplicable,  as  the  intervening  mountains  terminate  in  the  great 
Snake  River  plain,  so  that,  apparently,  it  would  be  perfectly  easy 
to  proceed  round  their  bases. 

Here,  however,  occur  some  of  the  striking  phenomena  of  this 
wild  and  sublime  region.  The  great  lower  plain  which  extends 
to  the  feet  of  these  mountains  is  broken  up  near  their  bases  into 
crests  and  ridges,  resembling  the  surges  of  the  ocean  breaking  on 
a  rocky  shore. 

In  a  line  with  the  mountains,  the  plain  is  gashed  with  numer- 
ous and  dangerous  chasms,  from  four  to  ten  feet  wide,  and  of 
great  depth.     Captain  Bonneville  attempted  to  sound  some  of 


n 


160 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


f 


l<'     <l 


il 


these  openings,  but  without  any  satisfactory  result.  A  stone 
dropped  into  one  of  tliem  reverberated  against  the  sides  for  appa- 
rently a  very  great  depth,  and,  by  its  sound,  indicated  the  same 
kind  of  substance  with  the  surface,  as  long  as  the  strokes  could 
be  heard.  The  horse,  instinctively  sagacious  in  avoiding  danger, 
shrinks  back  in  alaru)  from  the  least  of  these  chasms ;  pricking 
up  his  ears,  snorting  and  pawing,  until  permitted  to  turn  away. 

We  have  been  told  by  a  person  well  acquainted  with  the 
country,  that  it  is  sometimes  necessary  to  travel  fifty  and  sixty 
miles,  to  get  round  one  of  these  tremendous  ravines.  Considera- 
ble streams,  like  that  of  Godin's  River,  that  run  with  a  bold,  free 
current,  lose  themselves  in  this  plain  ;  some  of  them  end  in 
swamps,  others  suddenly  disappear ;  finding,  no  doubt,  subterra- 
nean outlets. 

Opposite  to  these  chasms.  Snake  River  makes  two  desperate 
leaps  over  precipices,  at  a  short  distance  from  each  other ;  one 
twenty,  the  other  forty  feet  in  height. 

The  volcanic  plain  in  question  forms  an  area  of  about  sixty 
miles  in  diameter,  where  nothing  meets  the  eye  but  a  desolate 
and  awful  waste  ;  where  no  grass  grows  nor  water  runs,  and 
where  nothing  is  to  be  seen  but  lava.  Ranges  of  mountains 
skirt  this  plain,  and,  in  Captain  Bonneville's  opinion,  were 
formerly  connected,  until  rent  asunder  by  some  convulsion  of 
nature.  Far  to  the  east,  the  Three  Tetons  lift  their  heads 
sublimely,  and  dominate  this  wide  sea  of  lava ; — one  of  the  most 
striking  features  of  a  wilderness  where  every  thing  seems  on  a 
scale  of  stern  and  simple  grandeur. 

We  look  forward  with  impatience  for  some  able  geologist  to 
explore  this  sublime,  but  almost  unknown  region. 

It  was  not  until  the  25th  of  April,  that  the  two  parties  of 


i 


GRAND  BUFFALO   HUNT. 


161 


A  stone 

8  for  appa- 
the  same 
skes  could 
ig  danger, 
;  pricking 
rn  away, 
with  the 
and  sixty 
^onsidora- 
bold,  free 
n  end  in 
subterra- 

lesperate 
her;  one 

'ut  sixty 
desolate 
ins,  and 
3untains 
n,  were 
Ision  of 
r  heads 
le  most 
IS  on  a 

>gist  to 

rties  of 


trappers  broke  up  their  encampments,  and  undertook  to  cross 
over  the  southwest  end  of  the  mountain  by  a  pass  explored  by 
their  scouts.  From  various  points  of  the  mountain,  they  com- 
manded boundless  prospects  of  the  lava  plain,  stretching  away  in 
cold  and  gloomy  barrenness  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  On 
the  evening  of  the  26th,  they  reached  the  plain  west  of  the 
mountain,  watered  by  the  Malade,  the  Boisec,  and  other  streams, 
which  comprised  the  contemplated  trapping  ground. 

The  country  about  the  Bois6e  (or  Woody)  River,  is  extolled 
by  Captain  Bonneville  as  the  most  enchanting  he  had  seen  in 
the  Far  West :  presenting  the  mingled  grandeur  and  beauty  of 
mountain  and  plain ;  of  bright  running  streams  and  vast  grassy 
meadows  waving  to  the  breeze. 

We  shall  not  follow  the  captain  throughout  his  trapping  cam- 
paign, which  lasted  until  the  beginning  of  June ;  nor  detail  all 
the  manoeuvres  of  the  rival  trapping  parties,  and  their  various 
schemes  to  outwit  and  out-trap  each  other.  Suffice  it  to  say,  that 
after  having  visited  and  camped  about  various  streams  with 
various  success.  Captain  Bonneville  set  forward  early  in  June  for 
the  appointed  rendezvous  at  the  caches.  On  the  way,  he  treated 
his  party  to  a  grand  buffalo  hunt.  The  scouts  had  reported 
numerous  herds  in  a  plain  beyond  an  intervening  height.  There 
was  an  immediate  halt ;  the  fleetest  horses  were  forthwith  mounted, 
and  the  party  advanced  to  the  summit  of  the  hill.  Hence  they 
beheld  the  great  plain  below  absolutely  swarming  with  buffalo. 
Captain  Bonneville  now  appointed  the  place  where  he  would  en- 
camp ;  and  towards  which  the  hunters  were  to  drive  the  game. 
He  cautioned  the  latter  to  advance  slowly,  reserving  the  strength 
and  speed  of  the  horses,  until  within  a  moderate  distance  of  the 
herds.    Twenty-two  horsemen  descended  cautiously  into  the  plain, 


169 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES, 


} 


M 


oonformably  to  these  directions.  "  It  was  a  beautiful  sight,"  says 
the  captain,  "  to  see  the  runners,  as  they  are  called,  advancing  in 
column,  at  a  slow  trot,  until  within  two  hundred  and  fifty  yards 
of  the  outskirts  of  the  herd,  then  dashing  on  at  full  speed,  until 
lost  in  the  immense  multitude  of  buffaloes  scouring  the  plain  in 
every  direction."  All  was  now  tumult  and  wild  confusion.  In 
the  meantime.  Captain  Bonneville  and  the  residue  of  the  party 
moved  on  to  the  appointed  camping  ground ;  thither  the  most  ex- 
pert runners  succeeded  in  driving  numbers  of  buffalo,  which  were 
killed  hard  by  the  camp,  and  the  flesh  transported  thither  without 
difficulty.  In  a  little  while  the  whole  camp  looked  like  one  great 
slaughter  house ;  the  carcasses  were  skilfully  cut  up,  great  fires 
were  made,  scaffolds  erected  for  drying  and  jerking  beef,  and  an 
ample  provision  was  made  for  future  subsistence.  On  the  15th 
of  June,  the  precise  day  appointed  for  the  rendezvous.  Captain 
Bonneville  and  his  party  arrived  safely  at  the  caches. 

Here  he  was  joined  by  the  other  detachments  of  his  main 
party,  all  in  good  health  and  spirits.  The  cacJies  were  again 
opened,  supplies  of  various  kinds  taken  out,  and  a  liberal  allow- 
ance of  aqua  vitce  distributed  throughout  the  camp,  to  celebrate 
with  proper  conviviality  this  merry  meeting. 


SCHEMES  OF  KOSATO. 


les 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Meeting  with  Hodgkiss. — Misfortunes  of  the  Nez  Percys. — Schemes  of  Kosato, 
the  rcnegado — his  foray  into  the  Horse  Prairie. — Invasion  of  Blackfeet. — 
Blue  John,  and  his  forlorn  hope — their  generous  enterprise — their  fate. — 
Consternation  and  despair  of  the  village. — Solemn  obsequies. — Attempt  at 
Indian  trade. — Hudson's  Bay  Company's  monopoly. — Arrangements  for 
autumn. — Breaking  up  of  an  encampment. 


i 


Having  now  a  pretty  strong  party,  well  armed  and  equipped, 
Captain  Bonneville  no  longer  felt  the  necessity  of  fortifying  him- 
self in  the  secret  places  and  fastnesses  of  the  mountains ;  but 
sallied  forth  boldly  into  the  Snake  River  plain,  in  search  of  his 
clerk,  Hodgkiss,  who  had  remained  with  the  Nez  Perec's.  He 
found  him  on  the  24th  of  June,  and  learnt  from  him  another 
chapter  of  misfortunes  which  had  recently  befallen  that  ill-fated 
race. 

After  the  departure  of  Captain  Bonneville,  in  March,  Kosato, 
the  renegade  Blackfoot,  had  recovered  from  the  wound  received 
in  battle ;  and  with  his  strength  revived  all  his  deadly  hostility 
to  his  native  tribe.  He  now  resumed  his  efforts  to  stir  up  the 
Nez  Percos  to  reprisals  upon  their  old  enemies ;  reminding  them 
incessantly  of  all  the  outrages  and  robberies  they  had  recently 
experienced^  and  assuring  them  that  such  would  continue  to  be 
their  lot,  until  they  proved  themselves  men  by  some  signal  retalia- 
tion. 


^ 


^ 


I 

;1 


164 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


* 


h      1 

If      ^ 


■| 


If    ■•  I 


Tho  impassioned  eloquence  of  the  desperado,  at  length 
produced  an  effect ;  and  a  band  of  braves  enlisted  under  his 
guidance,  to  penetrate  into  the  Blaekfoot  country,  harass  their 
villages,  carry  off  their  horses,  and  cominit  all  kinds  of  depre- 
dations. 

Kosato  pushed  forward  on  his  foray,  as  far  as  the  Horse 
Prairie  ;  where  he  came  upon  a  strong  party  of  Blackfeet.  With- 
out waiting  to  estimate  their  force,  he  attacked  them  with  charac- 
teristic fury,  and  was  bravely  seconded  by  his  followers.  The 
contest,  for  a  time,  was  hot  and  bloody :  at  length,  as  is  custo- 
mary with  these  two  tribes,  they  paused,  and  held  a  long  parley, 
or  rather  a  war  of  words. 

"  What  need,"  said  the  Blaekfoot  chief,  tauntingly,  "  have  the 
Nez  Pcrci's  to  leave  their  homes,  and  sally  forth  on  war  parties, 
when  they  have  danger  enough  at  their  own  doors  ?  If  you  want 
fighting,  return  to  your  villages  ;  you  will  have  plenty  of  it  there. 
The  Blackfeet  warriors  have  hitherto  made  war  upon  you  as  chil- 
dren. They  are  now  coming  as  men.  A  great  force  is  at  hand  ; 
they  are  on  their  way  to  your  towns,  and  are  determined  to  rub 
out  the  very  name  of  the  Nez  Perces  from  the  mountains.  Re- 
turn, I  say,  to  your  towns,  and  fight  there,  if  you  wish  to  live  any 
longer  as  a  people." 

Kosato  took  him  at  his  word ;  for  he  knew  the  character  of 
his  native  tribe.  Hastening  back  with  his  band  to  the  Nez 
Percc'S  village,  he  told  all  that  he  had  seen  and  heard  ;  and  urged 
the  most  prompt  and  strenuous  measures  for  defence.  The  Nez 
Perces,  however,  heard  him  with  their  accustomed  phlegm :  the 
threat  of  the  Blackfeet  had  been  often  made,  and  as  often  had 
proved  a  mere  bravado ;  such  they  pronounced  it  to  be  at  present, 
and,  of  course,  took  no  precautions. 


THE  FORLORN   HOPE. 


165 


at   length 

under  his 

arass  their 

i  of  dcpre- 


tho  Horse 
et.  With- 
ith  charac- 
vers.  The 
s  is  custo- 
)ng  parley, 

"  have  the 
^ar  parties, 
f  you  want 
3f  it  there, 
ou  as  chil- 

at  hand ; 
led  to  rub 
fims.     Re- 

o  live  any 

aracter  of 
the  Nez 
and  urged 
The  Nez 
egm :  the 
often  had 
t  present, 


They  wore  soon  convinced  that  it  was  no  empty  menace.  In 
a  few  days,  a  band  of  tliree  hundred  Blackfeet  warriors  appeared 
upon  the  hills.  All  now  was  consternation  in  the  village.  The 
force  of  the  Nez  Forces  was  too  small  to  cope  with  the  enemy  in 
open  fight ;  many  of  the  young  men  having  gone  to  their  rela- 
tives on  the  Columbia  to  procure  horses.  The  sages  met  in  hur- 
ried council.  What  was  to  be  done  to  ward  off  a  blow  which 
threatened  annihilation  ?  In  this  moment  of  imminent  peril,  a 
Pierced-noso  chief,  named  Blue  John  by  the  whites,  offered  to 
approach  secretly  with  a  small,  but  chosen  band,  through  a  defile 
which  led  to  the  encampment  of  the  enemy,  and,  by  a  sudden 
'onset,  to  drive  off  the  horses.  Should  this  blow  be  successful, 
the  spirit  and  strength  of  the  invaders  would  be  broken,  and  the 
Nez  PercL'S,  having  horses,  would  be  more  than  a  match  for  them. 
Should  it  fail,  the  village  would  not  be  worse  off  than  at  present, 
when  destruction  appeared  inevitable. 

Twenty-nine  of  the  choicest  warriors  instantly  volunteered  to 
follow  Blue  John  in  this  hazardous  enterprise.  They  prepared 
for  it  with  the  solemnity  and  devotion  peculiar  to  the  tribe.  Blue 
John  consulted  his  medicine,  or  talismanic  charm,  such  as  every 
chief  keeps  in  his  lodge  as  a  supernatural  protection.  The  ora- 
cle assured  him  that  his  enterprise  wqjild  be  completely  success- 
ful, provided  no  rain  should  fall  before  he  had  passed  through 
the  defile  ;  but  should  it  rain,  his  band  would  be  utterly  cut  off. 

The  day  was  clear  and  bright ;  and  Blue  John  anticipated 
that  the  skies  would  be  propitious.  He  departed  in  high  spirits 
with  his  forlorn  hope  ;  and  never  did  band  of  braves  make  a 
more  gallant  display — horsemen  and  horses  being  decorated  and 
equipped  in  the  fiercest  and  most  glaring  style — glittering  with 
arms  and  ornaments,  and  fluttering  with  feathers. 


I 


r 


166 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


IV'      I 


The  weather  continued  serene,  until  they  reached  the  defile ; 
hut  just  as  they  were  entering  it,  a  black  cloud  rose  over  the 
mountain  crest,  and  there  was  a  sudden  shower.  The  warriors 
turned  to  their  leader  as  if  to  read  his  opinion  of  this  unlucky 
omen  ;  but  the  countenance  of  Blue  John  remained  unchanged, 
and  they  continued  to  press  forward.  It  was  their  hope  to  make 
their  way,  undiscovered,  to  the  very  vicinity  of  the  Blackfoot 
camp  ;  but  they  had  not  proceeded  far  in  the  defile,  when  they 
met  a  scouting  party  of  the  enemy.  They  attacked  and  drove 
them  among  t^  hills,  and  were  pursuing  them  with  great  eager- 
ness, when  tL  /  heard  shouts  and  yells  behind  them,  and  beheld 
the  main  body  of  the  Blackfeet  advancing. 

The  second  chief  wavered  a  little  at  the  sight,  and  proposed 
an  instant  retreat.  "  We  came  to  fight !"  replied  Blue  John, 
sternly.  Then  giving  his  war-whoop,  he  sprang  forward  to  the 
conflict.  His  braves  folk  wed  him.  They  made  a  headlong  charge 
upon  the  enemy  ;  not  with  the  hope  of  victory,  but  the  determi- 
nation to  sell  their  lives  dearly.  A  frightful  carnage,  rather  than 
i  regular  battle,  succeeded.  The  forlorn  band  laid  heaps  of  their 
enemies  dead  at  their  feet,  but  were  overwhelmed  with  numbers, 
and  pressed  into  a  gorge  of  the  mountain,  where  they  continued 
to  light  until  they  were  Cttt  to  pieces.  One,  only,  of  the  thirty 
survived.  He  sprang  on  the  horse  of  a  Blackfoot  warrior  whom 
he  had  slain,  and  escaping  at  full  speed,  brought  home  the  bale- 
ful tidings  to  his  village. 

Who  can  paint  the  horror  and  desolation  of  the  inhabitants  ? 
The  flower  of  their  warriors  laid  low,  and  a  ferocious  enemy  at 
their  doors.  The  air  was  rent  by  the  shrieks  and  lamentations 
of  the  women,  who,  casting  off  their  ornaments,  and  tearing  their 
hair,  wandered  about,  frantically  bewailing  the  dead,  and  predict- 


i% 


LAMENTATIONS  OVER  THE  SLAIN. 


167 


I 


*v/;  destruction  to  the  living.  The  remaining  warriors  armed 
themselves  for  obstinute  defence  ;  but  showed  by  their  gloomy 
looks  and  sullen  silence,  that  they  considered  defence  hopeless. 
To  their  surprise,  the  Blackfeet  refrained  from  pursuing  their 
advantage  ;  perhaps  satisfied  with  the  blood  already  shed,  or  dis- 
heartened by  the  loss  they  had  themselves  sustained.  At  any 
rate,  thoy  disappeared  from  the  hills,  and  it  was  soon  ascertained 
that  they  had  returned  to  the  Horse  Prairie. 

The  unfortunate  Nez  Perces  now  began  once  more  to  breathe. 
A  few  of  thc'i»*  warriors,  taking  pack-horses,  repaired  to  the  defile 
to  bring  away  the  bodies  of  their  slaughtered  brethren.  They 
found  them  mere  headless  trunks  ;  and  the  wounds  with  which 
they  were  covered,  showed  how  bravely  they  had  fought.  Their 
hearts,  too,  had  been  torn  out  and  carried  oiF ;  a  proof  of  their 
signal  valor ;  for  in  devouring  the  heart  of  a  foe  renowned  for 
bravery,  or  who  has  distinguished  himself  in  battle,  the  Indian 
victor  thinks  he  appropriates  to  himself  the  courage  of  the  de- 
ceased. 

Gathering  the  mangled  bodies  of  the  slain,  and  strapping 
them  across  their  pack-horses,  the  warriors  returned,  in  dismal 
procession,  to  the  village.  The  tribe  came  forth  to  meet  them  ; 
the  women  with  piercing  cries  and  wailings  ;  the  men  with  down- 
cast countenances,  in  which  gloom  and  sorrow  seemed  fixed  as  if 
in  marble.  The  mutilated  and  almost  undistinguishable  bodies 
were  placed  in  rows  upon  the  ground,  in  the  midst  of  the  assem- 
blage ;  and  the  scene  of  heart-rending  anguish  and  lamentation 
that  ensued,  would  have  confounded  those  who  insist  on  Indian 
stoicism. 

Such  was  the  disastrous  event  that  had  overwhelmed  the  Nf  z 
Perces  tribe,  during  the  absence  of  Captain  Bonneville  ;  and  ne 


mtm 


4 


■m 


168 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


was  informed  that  Kosato,  the  renegade,  who,  being  stationed  in 
the  village,  had  been  prevented  from  going  on  the  forlorn  hope, 
was  again  striving  to  rouse  the  vindictive  feelings  of  his  adopted 
brethren,  and  to  prompt  them  to  revenge  the  slaughter  of  their 
devoted  braves. 

During  his  sojourn  on  the  Snake  River  plain,  Captain  Bonne- 
ville made  one  of  his  first  essays  at  the  strategy  of  the  fur  trade. 
There  was  at  this  time  an  assemblage  of  Nez  Perc's,  Flatheads, 
and  Cottonois  Indians,  encamped  together  upon  the  plain ;  well 
provided  with  beaver,  which  they  had  collected  during  the  spring. 
These  ihey  were  waiting  to  traffic  with  a  resident  trader  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  who  was  stationed  among  them,  and 
with  whom  they  were  accustomed  to  deal.  As  it  happened,  the 
trader  was  almost  entirely  destitute  of  Indian  goods ;  his  spring 
supply  not  having  yet  reached  him.  Captain  Bonneville  had 
secret  intelligence  that  the  supplies  were  on  their  way,  and  would 
soon  arrive ;  he  hoped,  however,  by  a  prompt  move,  to  anticipate 
their  arrival,  and  secure  the  market  to  himself  Throwing  him- 
self, therefore,  among  the  Indians,  he  opened  his  packs  of  mer- 
chandise, and  displayed  the  most  tempting  wares  ;  bright  cloths, 
and  scarlet  blankets,  and  glittering  ornaments,  and  every  thing 
gay  and  glorious  in  the  eyes  of  warr'or  or  squaw;  all,  however, 
was  in  vain.  The  Hudson's  Bay  trader  was  a  perfect  master  of 
his  business,  thoroughly  acquainted  with  the  Indians  he  had  to 
deal  with,  and  held  such  control  over  them,  that  none  dared  to 
act  openly  in  opposition  to  his  wishes :  nay  more — he  came  nigh 
turning  the  tables  upon  the  captain,  and  shaking  the  allegiance  of 
some  of  his  free  trappers,  by  distributing  liquors  among  them. 
The  latter,  therefore,  was  glad  to  give  up  a  competition,  where 
the  war  was  likely  to  be  carried  into  his  own  camp. 


HUDSON'S   BAY  TRADER. 


m 


In  fact,  the  traders  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  have 
advantages  over  all  competitors  in  the  trade  beyond  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  That  huge  monopoly  centres  within  itself  not  merely 
its  own  hereditary  and  long-established  power  and  intiuence ;  but 
also  those  of  its  ancient  rival,  but  now  integral  part,  the  famous 
Northwest  Company.  It  has  thus  its  races  of  traders,  trappers, 
hunters,  and  voyageurs,  born  and  brought  up  in  its  service,  and 
inheriting  from  preceding  generations  a  knowledge  and  aptitude 
in  every  thing  connected  with  Indian  life,  and  Indian  traffic.  In 
the  process  of  years,  this  company  has  been  enabled  to  spread  its 
ramifications  in  every  direction  ;  its  system  of  intercourse  is 
founded  upon  a  long  and  intimate  knowledge  of  the  character 
and  necessities  of  the  various  tribes ;  and  of  all  the  fastnesses, 
defiles,  and  favorable  hunting  grounds  ot  the  country.  Their 
capital,  also,  ^^.nd  the  manner  in  which  their  supplies  are  distri- 
buted at  various  posts,  or  forwarded  by  regular  caravans,  keep 
their  traders  well  supplied,  and  enable  them  to  furnish  their 
goods  to  the  Indians  at  a  clieap  rate.  Their  men,  too,  being 
chiefly  drawn  from  the  Canadas,  where  they  enjoy  great  influeuce 
and  control,  are  engaged  at  the  most  trifling  wages,  and  supported 
at  little  cost ;  the  provisions  which  they  take  with  them  being 
little  more  than  Indian  corn  and  grease.  They  are  brought, 
also,  into  the  most  perfect  discipline  and  subordination,  espe- 
cially when  their  leaders  have  once  got  them  to  their  scene  of 
action  in  the  heart  of  the  wilderness. 

These  circumstances  combine  to  give  the  leaders  of  the  Hud- 
eon's  Bay  Company  a  decided  advantage  over  all  the  American 
companies  that  come  within  their  range ;  so  that  any  close  com- 
petition with  them  is  almost  hopeless. 

Shortly  after  Captain  Bonneville's  ineifectual  attempt  to  par- 

8 


m   f    ifa 


u 


(h 


170 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURE? 


ticipate  in  the  trade  of  the  associated  camp,  the  supplies  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  arrived ;  and  the  resident  trader  was 
enabled  to  monopolize  the  market. 

It  was  now  the  beginning  of  July ;  in  the  latter  part  of  which 
month,  Captain  Bonneville  had  appointed  a  rendezvous  .at  Horse 
Creek,  in  Green  Biver  valley,  with  some  of  the  parties  which  he 
had  detached  in  the  preceding  year.  Ke  now  turned  his  thoughts 
in  that  direction,  and  prepared  for  the  journey. 

The  Cottonois  were  anxious  for  him  to  proceed  at  once  to 
their  country ;  which,  they  assured  him,  abounded  in  beavjr. 
The  lands  of  this  tribe  lie  immediately  north  of  those  of  the 
Flatheads,  and  are  open  to  the  inroads  of  the  Blackfoet.  It  is 
true,  the  latter  professed  to  be  their  allies ;  but  they  had  been 
guilty  of  so  many  acts  of  perfidy,  that  the  Cottonois  had,  latterly, 
renounced  their  hollow  friendship,  and  attached  themselves  to 
the  Flatheads  and  Nez  Percys.  These  they  had  accompanied  in 
their  migrations,  rather  than  remain  alone  at  home,  exposed  to 
the  outrages  of  the  Blackfe*  '^.  They  were  now  apprehensive  that 
these  marauders  would  range  their  country  during  their  absence, 
and  destroy  the  beaver :  this  was  their  reason  for  urging  Captain 
Bonneville  to  make  it  his  autumnal  hunting  ground  The  latter, 
however,  was  not  to  be  tempted ;  his  cngagemetits  required  his 
presence  at  the  rendezvous  in  Green  Biver  valley ;  and  he  had 
already  formed  his  ulterior  plans. 

An  unexpected  difiiculty  now  arose.  The  free  trappers  sud- 
denly made  a  stand,  and  declined  to  accompany  him.  It  was  a 
long  and  weary  journey ;  the  route  lay  through  Pierre's  Hole, 
and  other  mountain  passes  infested  by  the  Blackfeet,  and  re- 
cently the  scenes  of  sanguinary  conflicts.  They  were  not  disposed 
to  undertake  such  unnecessary  toils  and  dangers,  when  they  had 


DISPERSION  OF  THE  CAMPS. 


171 


good  and  secure  trapping  grounds  nearer  at  hand,  on  the  head 
waters  of  Salmon  River. 

As  these  were  free  and  independent  fellows,  whose  will  and 
whim  were  apt  to  be  law — who  had  the  whole  wilderness  before 
them,  "  where  to  choose,"  and  the  trader  of  a  rival  company  at 
hand,  ready  to  pay  for  their  services — it  was  necessary  to  bend 
to  their  wishes.  Captain  Bonneville  fitted  them  out,  therefore, 
for  the  hunting  ground  in  question  ;  appointing  Mr.  Hodgkiss  to 
act  as  their  partisan,  or  leader,  and  fixing  a  rendezvous  where  he 
should  meet  them  in  the  course  of  the  ensuing  winter.  The 
brigade  consisted  of  twenty-one  tree  trappers,  and  four  or  five 
hired  men  as  camp-keepers.  This  was  not  the  exact  arrangement 
of  a  trapping  party ;  which,  when  accurately  organized,  is  com- 
posed of  two-thirds  trappers,  whose  duty  leads  them  continually 
abroad  in  pursuit  of  game  ;  and  one-third  camp-keepers,  who 
cook,  pack,  and  unpack ;  set  up  the  tents,  take  care  of  the  horses, 
and  do  all  other  duties  usually  assigned  by  the  Indians  to  their 
women.  This  part  of  the  service  is  apt  to  be  fulfilled  by  French 
Creoles  from  Canada  and  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi. 

In  the  meantime,  the  associated  Indians,  having  completed 
their  trade  and  received  thc5r  supplies,  were  all  ready  to  disperse 
in  various  directions.  A.s  there  was  a  formidable  band  of  Black- 
feet  just  over  a  mountain  to  the  northeast,  by  which  Hodgkiss 
and  his  free  trappers  would  have  to  pass ;  and  as  it  was  known 
that  those  sharp-sighted  marauders  had  ^heir  scouts  out,  watching 
every  movement  of  the  encampments,  so  as  to  cut  off  stragglers 
or  weak  detachments.  Captain  Bonneville  prevailed  upon  the 
yez  Perces  to  accompany  Hodgkiss  and  his  party,  until  they 
should  be  beyond  the  range  of  the  enemy. 

The  Cottonois,  and  the  Pends  Oreilles,  determined  to  move 


mwi  ^ 


172 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


hi 


♦"gether  at  the  same  time,  and  to  pass  close  under  the  mountain 
infested  by  the  Blackfeet;  while  Captain  Bonneville,  with  his 
party,  was  to  strike  in  an  opposite  direction  to  the  southeast, 
bending  his  course  for  Pierre's  Hole,  on  his  way  to  Green  River. 
Accordingly,  on  the  6th  of  July,  all  the  camps  were  raised  at 
the  same  moment ;  each  party  taking  its  separate  route.  The 
scene  was  wild  and  picturesque :  the  long  line  of  traders,  trap- 
pers, and  Indians,  with  theii  rugged  and  fantastic  dresses  and 
accoutrements ;  their  varied  weapons,  their  innumerable  horses, 
some  under  the  saddle,  some  burdened  with  packages,  others  fol- 
lowing in  droves ;  all  stretching  in  lengthening  cavalcades  across 
the  vast  landscape,  and  making  for  different  points  of  the  plains 
and  mountains. 


if,,.M 


MODE  OF  DEFENCE  ON  A  PRAIRIE. 


173 


lountain 
with  his 
)utheast, 
n  River, 
raised  at 
te.     The 
!rs,  trap- 
sses  and 
e  horses, 
thers  fol- 
les  across 
he  plains 


1) 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Precautions  in  dangerous  defiles. — Trappers'  mode  of  defence  on  a  prairie. — 
A  mysterious  visitor. — Arrival  in  Green  River  valley. — Adventures  of  the 
detachments. — The  forlorn  partisan — his  tale  of  disasters. 

As  the  route  of  Captain  Bonneville  lay  through  what  was  consid- 
ered the  most  perilous  part  of  this  region  of  dangers,  he  took  all 
his  measures  with  military  skill,  and  observed  the  strictest  cir- 
cumspection. When  on  the  march,  a  small  scouting  party  was 
thrown  in  the  advance,  to  reconnoitre  the  country  through  which 
they  were  to  pass.  The  encampments  were  selected  with  great 
care,  and  a  watch  was  kept  up  night  and  day.  The  horses  were 
brought  in  and  picketed  at  night,  and  at  daybreak  a  party  was 
sent  out  to  scour  the  neighborhood  for  half  a  mile  round,  beating 
up  every  grove  and  thicket  that  could  give  shelter  to  a  lurking 
foe.  When  all  was  reported  safe,  the  horses  were  cast  loose  and 
turned  out  to  graze.  Were  such  precautions  generally  observed 
by  traders  and  hunters,  we  should  not  so  often  hear  of  parties 
being  surprised  by  the  Indians. 

Having  stated  the  military  arrangements  of  the  captain,  we 
may  here  mention  a  mode  of  defence  on  the  open  prairie,  which 
we  have  heard  from  a  veteran  in  the  Indian  trade.  When  a 
party  of  trappers  is  on  a  journey  with  a  convoy  of  goods  or 
peltries,  every  man  has  three  pack-horses  under  his  care ;  each 


174 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES, 


horse  laden  with  three  packs.  Every  man  is  provided  with  a 
picket  with  an  iron  head,  a  mallet,  and  hobbles,  or  leathern  fet- 
ters for  the  horses.  The  trappers  proceed  across  the  prairie  in  a 
long  line ;  or  sometimes  three  parallel  lines,  sufficiently  distant 
from  each  other  to  prevent  the  packs  from  interfering.  At  an 
alarm,  when  there  is  no  covert  at  hand,  the  line  wheels  so  as  to 
bring  the  front  to  the  rear  and  form  a  circle.  All  then  dismount, 
drive  their  pickets  into  the  ground  in  the  centre,  fasten  the 
horses  to  them,  and  hobble  their  fore  legs,  so  that,  in  case  of 
alarm,  they  cannot  break  away.  They  then  unload  them,  and 
dispose  of  their  packs  as  breastworks  on  the  periphery  of  the  cir- 
cle ;  each  man  having  nine  packs  behind  which  to  shelter  himself 
In  this  promptly-formed  fortress,  they  await  the  assault  of  the 
enemy,  and  are  enabled  to  set  large  bands  of  Indians  at  defiance. 

The  first  night  of  his  march,  Captain  Bonneville  encamped 
upon  Henry's  Fork ;  an  upper  branch  of  Snake  River,  called 
after  the  first  American  trader  that  erected  a  fort  beyond  the 
mountains.  About  an  hour  after  all  hands  had  come  to  a  halt 
the  clatter  of  hoofs  was  heard,  and  a  solitary  female,  of  the  Nez 
Perc^!  tribe,  came  galloping  up.  She  was  mounted  on  a  mustang, 
or  half-wild  horse,  which  she  managed  by  a  long  rope  hitched 
round  the  under  jaw  by  way  of  bridle.  Dismounting,  she  walked 
silently  into  the  midst  of  the  camp,  and  there  seated  herself  on 
the  ground,  still  holding  her  horse  by  the  long  halter. 

The  sudden  and  lonely  apparition  of  this  woman,  and  her 
calm,  yet  resolute  demeanor,  awakened  universal  curiosity.  The 
hunters  and  trappers  gathered  round,  and  gazed  on  her  as  some- 
thing mysterious.  She  remained  silent,  but  maintained  her  air 
of  calmness  and  self-possession.  Captain  Bonneville  approached 
and  interrogated  her  as  to  the  object  of  her  mysterious  visit.     Her 


GREEN   RIVER. 


175 


answer  was  brief  but  earnest — "  I  love  tlie  whites — I  will  go  with 
them."  She  was  forthwith  invited  to  a  lodge,  of  which  she 
readily  took  possession,  and  from  that  time  forward  was  considered 
one  of  the  camp. 

In  consequence,  very  probably,  of  the  military  precautions  of 
Captain  Bonneville,  he  conducted  his  party  in  safety  through  this 
hazardous  region.  No  accident  of  a  disastrous  kind  occurred, 
excepting  the  loss  of  a  horse,  which,  in  passing  along  the  giddy 
edge  of  the  precipice,  called  the  Cornice,  a  dangerous  pass  be- 
tween Jackson's  and  Pierre's  Hole,  fell  over  the  brink  and  was 
dashed  to  pieces. 

On  the  13th  of  July,  (1833,)  Captain  Bonneville  arrived  at 
Green  River,  As  he  entered  the  valley,  he  beheld  it  strewed  in 
every  direction  with  the  carcasses  of  buffaloes.  It  was  evident 
that  Indians  had  recently  been  there,  and  in  great  numbers. 
Alarmed  at  this  sight,  he  came  to  a  halt,  and  as  soon  as  it  was 
dark,  sent  out  spies  to  his  place  of  rendezvous  on  Horse  Creek, 
where  he  had  expected  to  meet  with  his  detached  parties  of  trap- 
pers on  the  following  day.  Early  in  the  morning,  the  spies  made 
their  appearance  in  the  camp,  and  with  them  came  three  trappers 
of  one  of  his  bands,  from  the  rendezvous,  who  told  him  his  peo- 
ple were  all  there  expecting  him.  As  to  the  slaughter  among  the 
buifaloes,  it  had  been  made  by  a  friendly  band  of  Shoshonies, 
who  had  fallen  in  with  one  of  his  trapping  parties,  and  accom- 
panied them  to  the  rendezvous.  Having  imparted  this  intelli- 
gence, the  three  worthies  from  the  rendezvous  broached  a  small 
keg  of  "  alcohol,"  which  they  had  brought  with  them,  to  enliven 
this  merry  meeting.  The  liquor  went  briskly  round  ;  all  absent 
friends  wore  toasted,  and  the  party  moved  forward  to  the  rendez- 
vous in  high  spirits. 


I 


■  1 

i 


176 


BONNEVILLK'S  ADVKNTURES. 


II 


If     f' 


)i 


The  mooting  of  associated  bands,  who  havo  been  soparaiad 
from  each  other  on  these  hazardous  enterprises,  is  always  inter- 
esting ;  each  having  its  tale  of  perils  and  adventures  to  relate. 
Such  was  the  case  with  the  various  detachments  of  Captain  Bon- 
neville's company,  thus  brought  together  on  Horse  Creek.  Hero 
was  the  detachment  of  fifty  men  which  he  had  sent  from  Salmon 
River,  in  the  preceding  month  of  November,  to  winter  on  Snake 
River.  They  liad  met  with  many  crosses  and  losses  iii  the  course 
of  their  spring  hunt,  not  so  much  from  Indians  as  from  white 
men.  They  had  come  in  competition  with  rival  trapping  parties, 
particularly  one  belonging  to  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company ; 
and  they  had  long  stories  to  relate  of  their  manoeuvres  to  fore- 
stall or  distress  each  other.  In  fact,  in  these  virulent  and  sordid 
competitions,  the  trappers  of  each  party  were  more  intent  upon 
injuring  their  rivals,  than  benefiting  themselves ;  breaking  each 
other's  traps,  trampling  and  tearing  to  pieces  the  beaver  lodges, 
and  doing  every  thing  in  their  power  to  mar  the  success  of  the 
hunt.     We  forbear  to  detail  these  pitiful  contentions. 

The  most  lamentable  tale  of  disasters,  however,  that  Captain 
Bonneville  had  to  hear,  was  from  a  partisan,  whom  he  had  de- 
tached in  the  preceding  year,  with  twenty  men,  to  hunt  through 
the  outskirts  of  the  Crow  country,  and  on  the  tributary  streams 
of  the  Yellowstone :  whence  he  was  to  proceed  and  join  him  in 
his  winter  quarters  on  Salmon  River.  This  partisan  appeared 
at  the  rendezvous  without  his  party,  and  a  sorrowful  tale  of  dis- 
asters had  he  to  relate.  In  hunting  the  Crow  country,  he  fell  in 
with  a  village  of  that  tribe ;  notorious  rogues,  jockeys,  and  horse 
stealers,  and  errant  scamperers  of  the  mountains.  These  decoyed 
most  of  his  men  to  desert,  and  carry  off  horses,  traps,  and  accou- 
trements.    When  he  attempted  to  retake  the  deserters,  the  Crow 


ARICKARA  SPIES. 


177 


warriors  ruffled  up  to  him  and  declared  the  deserters  were  their 
good  friends,  had  determined  to  remain  among  them,  and  should 
not  bo  molested.  The  poor  partisan,  therefore,  was  fain  to  leave 
h\»  vagabonds  among  these  birds  of  their  own  feather,  and,  being 
too  weak  in  numbers  to  attempt  the  dangerous  pass  across  the 
mountains  to  meet  Captain  Bonneville  on  Salmon  River,  ho 
made,  with  the  few  that  remained  faithful  to  him,  for  the  neigh- 
borhood of  Tullock's  Fort,  on  the  Yellowstone,  under  the  protec- 
tion of  which  he  went  into  winter  quarters. 

He  soon  found  out  that  the  neighborhood  of  the  fort  was 
nearly  as  bad  as  the  neighborhood  of  the  Crows.  His  men  were 
continually  stealing  away  thither,  with  whatever  beaver  skins 
they  could  secrete  or  lay  their  hands  on.  These  they  would  ex- 
change with  the  hangers-on  of  the  fort  for  whisky,  and  then  revel 
in  drunkenness  and  debauchery. 

The  unlucky  partisan  made  another  move.  Associating  with 
his  party  a  few  free  trappers,  whom  he  met  with  in  this  neighbor- 
hood, he  started  off  early  in  the  spring  to  trap  on  the  head 
waters  of  Powder  River.  In  the  course  of  the  journey,  his 
horses  were  so  much  jaded  in  traversing  a  steep  mountain,  that 
he  was  induced  to  turn  them  loose  to  graze  during  the  night. 
The  place  was  lonely ;  the  path  was  rugged  ;  there  was  not  the 
sign  of  an  Indian  in  the  neighborhood  ;  not  a  blade  of  grass  that 
had  been  turned  by  a  footstep.  But  who  can  calculate  on  secu- 
rity in  the  midst  of  the  Indian  country,  where  the  foe  lurks  in 
silence  and  secrecy,  and  seems  to  come  and  go  on  the  wings  of 
the  wind?  The  horses  had  scarce  been  turned  loose,  when  a 
couple  of  Arickara  (or  Rickaree)  warriors  entered  the  camp. 
They  affected  a  frank  and  friendly  demeanor  ;  but  their  appear- 
ance  and  movements  awakened  the  suspicions  of  some  of  the 

8* 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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178 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


.       » 


veteran  trappers,  well  versed  in  Indian  wiles.  Convinced  that 
they  were  spies  sent  on  some  sinister  errand,  they  took  them 
in  custody,  and  set  to  work  to  drive  in  the  horses.  It  was  too 
late — the  horses  were  already  gone.  In  fact,  a  war  party  of 
Arickaras  had  been  hovering  on  their  trail  for  several  days,  watch- 
ing with  the  patience  and  perseverance  of  Indians,  for  some 
moment  of  negligence  and  fancied  security,  to  make  a  successful 
swoop.  The  two  spies  had  evidently  been  sent  into  the  camp  to 
create  a  diversion,  while  their  confederates  carried  off  the  spoil. 

The  unlucky  partisan,  thus  robbed  of  his  horses,  turned 
furiously  on  his  prisoners,  ordered  them  to  be  bound  hand  and 
foot,  and  swore  to  put  them  to  death  unless  his  property  were 
restored.  The  robbers,  who  soon  found  that  their  spies  were  in 
captivity,  now  made  their  appearance  on  horseback,  and  held  a 
parley.  The  sight  of  them,  mounted  on  the  very  horses  they 
had  stolen,  set  the  blood  of  the  mountaineers  in  a  ferment ;  but 
it  was  useless  to  attack  them,  as  they  would  have  but  to  turn 
their  steeds  and  scamper  out  of  the  reach  of  pedestrians.  A 
negotiation  was  now  attempted.  The  Arickaras  offered  what  they 
considered  fair  terms  ;  to  barter  one  horse,  or  even  two  horses, 
for  a  prisoner.  The  mountaineers  spurned  at  their  offer,  and 
declared  that,  unless  all  the  horses  were  relinquished,  the  pri- 
soners should  be  burnt  to  death.  To  give  force  to  their  threat, 
a  pyre  of  logs  and  fagots  was  heaped  up  and  kindled  into  a 
blaze. 

The  parley  continued  ;  the  Arickaras  released  one  horse  and 
then  another,  in  earnest  of  their  proposition  ;  finding,  however, 
that  nothing  short  of  the  relinquishment  of  all  their  spoils  would 
purchase  the  lives  of  the  captives,  they  abandoned  them  to  their 
fate,  moving  off  with  many  parting  words  and  lamentable  howl- 


.  U 


AN  ATROCIOUS  PUNISHMENT. 


179 


mgs 


The  prisoners  seeing  them  depart,  and  knowing  the  horri- 
ble fate  that  awaited  them,  made  a  desperate  effort  to  escape. 
They  partially  succeeded,  but  were  severely  wounded  and  retaken ; 
then  dragged  to  the  blazing  pyre,  and  burnt  to  death  in  the  sight 
of  their  retreating  comrades. 

Such  are  the  savage  cruelties  that  white  men  learn  to  prac- 
tise, who  mingle  in  savage  life  ;  and  such  are  the  acts  that  lead 
to  terrible  recrimination  on  the  part  of  the  Indians.  Should  we 
hear  of  any  atrocities  committed  by  the  Arickaras  upon  captive 
white  men,  let  this  signal  and  recent  provocation  be  borne  in 
mind.  Individual  eases  of  the  kind  dwell  in  the  recollections  of 
whole  tribes ;  and  it  is  a  point  of  honor  and  conscience  to  re- 
venge them. 

The  loss  of  his  horses  completed  the  ruin  of  the  unlucky 
partisan.  It  was  out  of  his  power  to  prosecute  his  hunting,  or 
to  maintain  his  party ;  the  only  thought  now  was  how  to  get 
back  to  civilized  life.  At  the  first  water-course,  his  men  built 
canoes,  and  committed  themselves  to  the  stream.  Some  engaged 
themselves  at  various  trading  establishments  at  which  they 
touched,  others  got  back  to  the  settlements.  As  to  the  partisan, 
he  found  an  opportunity  to  make  his  way  to  the  rendezvous  at 
Green  River  valley ;  which  he  reached  in  time  to  render  to  Cap- 
tain Bonneville  this  forlorn  account  of  his  misadventures. 


180 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES, 


ivy 


CHAPTER  XX. 


Gathering  in  Green  River  valley. — Visitings  and  feastings  of  leaders. — Rough 
wassailing  among  the  trappers. — Wild  blades  of  the  mountains. — Indian 
belles. — Potency  of  bright  beads  and  red  blankets. — Arrival  of  supplies. — ■ 
Revelry  and  extravagance. — Mad  wolves. — The  lost  Indian. 


Si  < 


The  Green  River  valley  was  at  this  time  the  scene  of  one  of  those 
general  gatherings  of  traders,  trappers,  and  Indians,  that  we 
have  already  mentioned.  The  three  rival  companies,  which,  for 
a  year  past  had  been  endeavoring  to  out-trade,  out-trap,  and  out- 
wit each  other,  were  here  encamped  in  close  proximity,  awaiting 
their  annual  supplies.  About  four  miles  from  the  rendezvous  of 
Captain  Bonneville  was  that  of  the  American  Fur  Company, 
hard  by  which,  was  that  also  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Com- 
pany. 

After  the  eager  rivalry  and  almost  hostility  displayed  by 
these  companies  in  their  late  campaigns,  it  might  be  expected 
that,  when  thus  brought  in  juxtaposition,  they  would  hold  them- 
selves warily  and  sternly  aloof  from  each  other,  and,  should  they 
happen  to  come  in  contact,  brawl  and  bloodshed  would  ensue. 

No  such  thing  !  Never  did  rival  lawyers,  after  a  wrangle  at 
the  bar,  meet  with  more  social  good  humor  at  a  circuit  dinner. 
The  hunting  season  over,  all  past  tricks  and  manoeuvres  are  for- 
gotten, all  feuds  and  bickerings  buried  in  oblivion.     From  the 


I 


VISITINGS  AND  FEASTINGS. 


181 


middle  of  June  to  the  middle  of  September,  all  trapping  is  sus- 
pended ;  for  the  beavers  are  then  shedding  their  furs,  and  their 
skins  are  of  little  value.  This,  then,  is  the  trapper's  holiday, 
when  he  is  all  for  fun  and  frolic,  and  ready  for  a  saturnalia  among 
the  mountains.  ' 

At  the  present  season,  too,  all  parties  were  in  good  humor. 
The  year  had  been  productive.  Competition,  by  threatening  to 
lessen  their  profits,  had  quickened  their  wits,  roused  their  ener- 
gies, and  made  them  turn  every  favorable  chance  to  the  best  ad- 
vantage ;  so  that,  on  assembling  at  their  respective  places  of 
rendezvous,  each  company  found  itself  in  possession  of  a  rich 
stock  of  peltries. 

The  leaders  of  the  different  companies,  therefore,  mingled  on 
terms  of  perfect  good  fellowship ;  interchanging  visits,  and  regal- 
ing each  other  in  the  best  style  their  respective  camps  afforded. 
But  the  rich  treat  for  the  worthy  captiin  was  to  see  the  *'  chiv- 
alry "  of  the  various  encampments,  engaged  in  contests  of  skill 
at  runnmg,  jumping,  wrestling,  shooting  with  the  rifle,  and  run- 
ning horses.  And  then  their  rough  hunters'  feastings  and  carou- 
sals. They  drank  together,  they  sang,  they  laughed,  they 
whooped  ;  they  tried  to  outbrag  and  outlie  each  other  in  stories 
of  their  adventures  and  achievements.  Here  the  free  trappers 
were  in  all  their  glory  ;  they  considered  themselves  the  "  cocks 
of  the  walk,"  and  always  carried  the  highest  crests.  Now  and 
then  familiarity  was  pushed  too  far,  and  would  effervesce  into  a 
brawl,  and  a  "  rough  and  tumble "  fight ;  but  it  all  ended  in 
cordial  reconciliation  and  maudlin  endearment. 

The  presence  of  the  Shoshonie  tribe  contributed  occasionally 
to  cause  temporary  jealousies  and  feuds.  The  Shoshonie  beauties 
became  objects  of  rivalry  among  some  of  the  amorous  mountain- 


183 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


.■     H 


eers.  Happy  was  the  trapper  who  could  muster  up  a  red  blanket, 
a  string  of  gay  beads,  or  a  paper  of  precious  vermilion,  with 
which  to  win  the  smiles  of  a  Shoshonie  fair  one. 

The  caravans  of  supplies  arrived  at  the  valley  just  at  this  pe- 
riod of  gallantry  and  good-fellowship.  Now  commenced  a  scene 
of  eager  competition  and  wild  prodigality  at  the  different  encamp- 
ments. Bales  were  hastily  ripped  opened,  and  their  motley  con- 
tents poured  forth.  A  mania  for  purchasing  spread  itself  through- 
out the  several  bands, — munitions  for  war,  for  hunting,  for  gal- 
lantry, were  seized  upon  with  equal  avidity — rifles,  hunting 
knives,  traps,  scarlet  cloth,  red  blankets,  gairish  beads,  and  glit- 
tering trinkets,  were  bought  at  any  price,  and  scores  run  up  with- 
out any  thought  how  they  were  ever  to  be  rubbed  off.  The  free 
trappers,  especially,  were  extravagant  in  their  purchases.  For  a 
free  mountaineer  to  pause  at  a  paltry  consideration  of  dollars  and 
cents,  in  the  attainment  of  any  object  that  might  strike  his  fancy, 
would  stamp  him  with  the  mark  of  the  beast  in  the  estimation  of 
his  comrades.  For  a  trader  to  refuse  one  of  these  free  and  flour- 
ishing blades  a  credit,  whatever  unpaid  scores  might  stare  him  in 
the  face,  would  be  a  flagrant  affront  scarcely  to  be  forgiven. 

Now  succeeded  another  outbreak  of  revelry  and  extravagance. 
The  trappers  were  newly  fitted  out  and  arrayed,  and  dashed 
about  with  their  horses  caparisoned  in  Indian  style.  The  Sho- 
shonie beauties  also  flaunted  about  in  all  the  colors  of  the  rain- 
bow. Every  freak  of  prodigality  was  indulged  to  its  full  extent, 
and  in  a  little  while  most  of  the  trappers,  having  squandered 
away  all  their  wages,  and  perhaps  run  knee-deep  in  debt,  were 
ready  for  another  hard  campaign  in  the  wilderness. 

During  this  season  of  folly  and  frolic,  there  was  an  alarm  of 
mad  wolves  in  the  two  lower  camps.      One  or  more  of  these  ani- 


•    ■:ii' 


THE  LOST  INDIAN. 


183 


mals  entered  the  camps  for  three  nights  successively,  and  bit 
several  of  the  people.  * 

Captain  Bonneville  relates  the  case  of  an  Indian,  who  was  a 
universal  favorite  in  the  lower  camp.  He  had  been  bitten  by  one 
of  these  animals.  Being  out  with  a  party  shortly  afterwards,  he 
grew  silent  and  gloomy,  and  lagged  behind  the  rest  as  if  he 
wished  to  leave  them.  They  halted  and  urged  him  to  move  faster, 
but  he  entreated  them  not  to  approach  him,  and,  leaping  from  his 
horse,  began  to  roll  frantically  on  the  earth,  gnashing  his  teetH 
and  foaming  at  the  mouth.  Still  he  retained  his  senses,  and 
warned  his  companions  not  to  come  near  him,  as  he  should  not 
be  able  to  restrain  himself  from  biting  them.  They  hurried' off 
to  obtain  relief ;  but  on  their  return  he  was  nowhere  to  be  found. 
His  horse  and  his  accoutrements  remained  upon  the  spot.  Three 
or  four  days  afterwards  a  solitary  Indian,  believed  to  be  the  same, 
was  observed  crossing  a  valley,  and  pursued  ;  but  he  darted  away 
into  the  fastnesses  of  the  mountains,  and  was  seen  no  more. 

Another  instance  we  have  from  a  different  person  who  was 
present  in  the  encampment.  One  of  the  men  of  the  Rocky 
Mountain  Fur  Company  had  been  bitten.  He  set  out  shortly 
afterwards,  in  company  with  two  white  men,  on  his  return  to  the 
settlements.  In  the  course  of  a  few  days  he  showed  symptoms 
of  hydrophobia,  and  became  raving  towards  night.  At  length, 
breaking  away  from  his  companions,  he  rushed  into  a  thicket  of 
willows,  where  they  left  him  to  his  fate  ! 


2f 


184 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


i 


I 
I     \ 


H. 


'b 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

Schemes  of  Captain  Bonneville. — The  Great  Salt  Lake — Expedition  to  ex- 
plore it. — Preparations  for  a  journey  to  the  Bighorn. 

Captain  Bonneville  now  found  himself  at  the  head  of  a  hardy, 
well-seasoned,  and  well-appointed  company  of  trappers,  all  bene- 
fited by  at  least  one  year's  experience  among  the  mountains,  and 
capable  of  protecting  themselves  from  Indian  wiles  and  strata- 
gems, and  of  providing  for  their  subsistence  wherever  game  was 
to  be  found.  He  had,  also,  an  excellent  troop  of  horses,  in  prime 
condition,  and  fit  for  hard  service.  He  determined,  therefore,  to 
strike  out  into  some  of  the  bolder  parts  of  his  scheme.  One  of 
these  was  to  carry  his  expeditions  into  some  of  the  unknown 
tracts  of  the  Far  West,  beyond  what  is  generally  termed  the 
buffalo  range.  This  would  have  something  of  the  merit  and 
charm  of  discovery,  so  dear  to  every  brave  and  adventurous 
spirit.  Another  favorite  project  was  to  establish  a  trading  post 
on  the  lower  part  of  the  Columbia  River,  near  the  Multnomah 
valley,  and  to  endeavor  to  retrieve  for  his  country  some  of  the 
lost  trade  of  Astoria. 

The  first  of  the  above  mentioned  views  was,  at  present,  upper- 
most in  his  mind — the  exploring  of  unknown  regions.  Among 
the  grand  features  of  the  wilderness  about  which  he  was  roam- 
ing, one  had  made  a  vivid  impression  on  his  mind,  and  been 


THE  GREAT  SALT  LAKE. 


IM 


clothed  by  his  imagination  with  vague  and  ideal  charms.  This 
is  a  great  lake  of  salt  water,  laving  the  feet  of  the  mountains, 
but  extending  far  to  the  west-sou^iwest,  into  one  of  those  vast 
and  elevated  plateaus  of  land,  which  range  high  above  the  level 
of  the  Pacific. 

Captain  Bonneville  gives  a  striking  account  of  the  lake  when 
seen  from  the  land.  As  you  ascend  the  mountains  about  its 
shores,  says  he,  you  behold  this  immense  body  of  water  spreading 
itself  before  you,  and  stretching  further  and  further,  in  one  wide 
and  far-reaching  expanse,  until  the  eye,  wearied  with  continued 
and  strained  attention,  rests  in  the  blue  dimness  of  distance, 
upon  lofty  ranges  of  mountains,  confidently  asserted  to  rise 
from  the  bosom  of  the  waters.  Nearer  to  you,  the  smooth  and 
unruffled  surface  is  studded  with  little  islands,  where  the  moun- 
tain sheep  roam  in  considerable  numbers.  What  extent  of  low- 
land may  be  encompassed  by  the  high  peaks  beyond,  must  remain 
for  the  present  matter  of  mere  conjecture ;  though  from  the  form 
of  the  summits,  and  the  breaks  which  may  be  discovered  among 
them,  there  can  be  little  doubt  that  they  are  the  sources  of 
streams  calculated  to  water  large  tracts,  which  are  probably  con- 
cealed from  view  by  the  rotundity  of  the  lake's  surface.  At  some 
future  day,  in  all  probability,  the  rich  harvest  of  beaver  fur,  which 
may  be  reasonably  anticipated  in  such  a  spot,  will  tempt  adven- 
turers to  reduce  all  this  doubtful  region  to  the  palpable  certainty 
of  a  beaten  track.  At  present,  however,  destitute  of  the  means  | 
of  making  boats,  the  trapper  stands  upon  the  shore,  and  gazes  / 
upon  a  promised  land  which  his  feet  are  never  to  tread. 

Such  is  the  somewhat  fanciful  view  which  Captain  Bonneville 
gives  of  this  great  body  of  water.  He  has  evidently  taken  part 
of  his  ideas  concerning  it  from  the  representations  of  others,  who 


186 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


have  somewhat  exaggerated  its  features.  It  is  reported  to  be 
about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  long,  and  fifty  miles  broad.  The 
ranges  of  mountain  peaks  whiph  Captain  Bonneville  speaks  of,  as 
rising  from  its  bosom,  are  probably  the  summits  of  mountains 
beyond  it,  which  may  be  visible  at  a  vast  distance,  when  viewed 
from  an  eminence,  in  the  transparent  atmosphere  of  these  lofty 
regions.  Several  large  islands  certainly  exist  in  the  lake ;  one 
of  which  is  said  to  be  mountainous,  but  not  by  any  means  to  the 
extent  required  to  furnish  the  series  of  peaks  above  mentioned. 

Captain  Sublette,  in  one  of  his  early  expeditions  across  the 
mountains,  is  said  to  have  sent  four  men  in  a  skin  canoe,  to 
explore  the  lake,  who  professed  to  have  navigated  all  round  it ; 
but  to  have  suffered  excessively  from  thirst,  the  water  of  the 
lake  being  extremely  salt,  and  there  being  no  fresh  streams  run- 
ning into  it. 

Captain  Bonneville  doubts  this  report,  or  that  the  men  accom- 
plished the  circumnavigation,  because,  he  says,  the  lake  receives 
several  large  streams  from  the  mountains  which  bound  it  to  the 
east.  In  the  spring,  when  the  streams  are  swollen  by  rain  and 
by  the  melting  of  the  snows,  the  lake  rises  several  feet  above  its 
ordinary  level ;  during  the  summer,  it  gradually  subsides  again, 
leaving  a  sparkling  zone  of  the  finest  salt  upon  its  shores. 

The  elevation  of  the  vast  plateau  on  which  this  lake  is  situ-, 
ated,  is  estimated  by  Captain  Bonneville  at  one  and  three-fourths 
of  a  mile  above  the  level  of  the  ocean.  The  admirable  purity 
and  transparency  of  the  atmosphere  in  this  region,  allowing 
objects  to  be  seen,  and  the  report  of  firearms  to  be  heard,  at  an 
astonishing  distance ;  and  its  extreme  dryness,  causing  the  wheels 
of  wagons  to  fall  in  pieces,  as  instanced  in  former  passages  of 
this  work,  are  proofs  of  the  great  altitude  of  the  Rocky  Mountain 


TRANSPORTATION  OF  PELTRIES. 


187 


plains.  That  a  body  of  salt  water  should  exist  at  such  a  height, 
is  cited  as  a  singular  phenomenon  by  Captain  Bonneville,  though 
the  salt  lako  of  Mexico  is  not  much  inferior  in  elevation.* 

To  have  this  lake  properly  explored,  and  all  its  secrets 
revealed,  was  the  grand  scheme  of  the  captain  for  the  present 
year ;  and  while  it  was  one  in  which  his  imagination  evidently 
took  a  leading  part,  he  believed  it  would  be  attended  with  great 
profit,  from  the  numerous  beaver  streams  with  which  the  lake 
must  be  fringed. 

This  momentous  undertaking  he  confided  to  his  lieutenant, 
Mr.  Walker,  in  whose  experience  and  ability  he  had  great  confi- 
dence. He  instructed  him  to  keep  along  the  shores  of  the  lake, 
and  trap  in  all  the  streams  on  his  route ;  also  to  keep  a  journal, 
and  minutely  to  record  the  events  of  his  journey,  and  every  thing 
curious  or  interesting,  making  maps  or  charts  of  his  route,  and 
of  the  surrounding  country. 

No  pains  nor  expense  were  spared  in  fitting  out  the  party,  of 
forty  men,  which  he  was  to  command.  They  had  complete  sup- 
plies for  a  year,  and  were  to  meet  Captain  Bonneville  in  the 
ensuing  summer,  in  the  valley  of  Bear  River,  the  largest  tribu- 
tary of  the  Salt  Lake,  which  was  to  be  his  point  of  general 
rendezvous. 

The  next  care  of  Captain  Bonneville,  was  to  arrange  for  the 
safe  transportation  of  the  peltries  which  he  had  collected,  to  the 
Atlantic  States.     Mr.  Robert  Campbell,  the  partner  of  Sublette, 


*  The  lake  of  Tezcuco,  which  surrounds  the  city  of  Mexico,  the  largest 
and  lowest  of  the  five  lakes  on  the  Mexican  plateau,  and  one  of  the  most 
impregnated  with  saline  particles,  is  seven  thousand  four  hundred  and  sixty- 
eight  feet,  or  nearly  one  mile  and  a  half  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 


168 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


was  at  this  time  in  the  rendezvous  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur 
Company,  having  brought  up  their  supplies.  He  was  about  to 
set  off  on  his  return,  with  the  peltries  collected  during  the  year, 
and  intended  to  proceed  through  the  Crow  country,  to  the  head 
of  navigation  on  the  Bighorn  River,  and  to  descend  in  boats 
down  that  river,  the  Missouri,  and  the  Yellowstone,  to  St.  Louis. 
Captain  Bonneville  determined  to  forward  his  peltries  by  the 
same  route,  under  the  especial  care  of  Mr.  Cerr6.  By  way  of 
escort,  he  would  accompany  Cerr6  to  the  point  of  embarkation, 
and  then  make  an  autumnal  hunt  in  the  Crow  country. 


►1 


THE  CROW  COUNTRY. 


II 


m 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

The  Crow  country. — A  Crow  pnradise. — Habits  of  the  Crowe. — Anecdotes 
of  Rose,  the  renegade  white  man — his  fights  with  the  Blackfeet — his  ele- 
vation— his  death. — Arapooish,  the  Crow  chief — his  eagle. — Adventure  of 
Robert  Campbell. — Honor  among  Crows. 

Before  we  accompany  Captair  Bonneville  into  the  Crow  coun* 
try,  we  will  impart  a  few  facts  about  this  wild  region,  and  the 
wild  people  who  inhabit  it.  We  are  not  aware  of  the  precise 
boundaries,  if  there  are  any,  of  the  country  claimed  by  the  Crows ; 
it  appears  to  extend  from  the  Black  Hills  to  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, including  a  part  of  their  lofty  ranges,  and  embracing  many 
of  the  plains  and  valleys  watered  by  the  Wind  River,  the  Yellow- 
stone, the  Powder  River,  the  Little  Missouri,  and  the  Nebraska. 
The  country  varies  in  soil  and  climate  ;  there  are  vast  plains  of 
sand  and  clay,  studded  with  large  red  sand-hills ;  other  parts  are 
mountainous  and  picturesque ;  it  possesses  warm  springs,  and 
coal  mines,  and  abounds  with  game. 

But  let  us  give  the  account  of  the  country  as  rendered  by 
Arapooish,  a  Crow  chief,  to  Mr.  Robert  Campbell,  of  the  Rocky 
Mountain  Fur  Company. 

"  The  Crow  country,"  said  he,  "  is  a  good  country.  The 
Great  Spirit  has  put  it  exactly  in  the  right  place  ;  while  you  are 


190 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


i 


'    i! 


in  it  you  fare  well ;  whenever  you  go  out  of  it,  which  ever  way 
you  travel,  you  fare  worse.  ^ 

"  If  you  go  to  the  south,  you  have  to  wander  over  great  bar- 
ren plains  ;  the  water  is  warm  and  bad,  and  you  meet  the  fever 
and  ague. 

"  To  the  north  it  is  cold ;  the  winters  are  long  and  bitter, 
with  no  grass ;  you  cannot  keep  horses  there,  but  must  travel 
•with  dogs.     What  is  a  country  without  horses  ? 

"  On  the  Columbia  they  are  poor  and  dirty,  paddle  about  in 
canoes,  and  eat  fish.  Their  teeth  are  worn  out ;  they  are  always 
taking  fish-bones  out  of  their  mouths.     Fish  is  poor  food. 

"  To  the  east,  they  dwell  in  villages  ;  they  live  well ;  but  they 
drink  the  muddy  water  of  the  Missouri — that  is  bad.  A  Crow's 
dog  would  not  drink  such  water. 

"  About  the  forks  of  the  Missouri  is  a  fine  country ;  good 
water  ;  good  grass  ;  plenty  of  buflFalo.  In  summer,  it  is  almost 
as  good  as  the  Crow  country  ;  but  in  winter  it  is  cold  ;  the  grass 
is  gone  ;  and  there  is  no  salt  weed  for  the  horses. 

"  The  Crow  country  is  exactly  in  the  right  place.  It  has 
snowy  mountains  and  sunny  plains ;  all  kinds  of  climates  and 
good  things  for  every  season.  When  the  summer  heats  scorch 
the  prairies,  you  can  draw  up  under  the  mountains,  where  the  air 
is  sweet  and  cool,  the  grass  fresh,  and  the  bright  streams  come 
tumbling  out  of  the  snow-banks.  There  you  can  hunt  the  elk, 
the  deer,  and  the  antelope,  when  their  skins  are  fit  for  dressing ; 
there  you  will  find  plenty  of  white  bears  and  mountain  sheep. 

"  In  the  autumn,  when  your  horses  are  fat  and  strong  from 
the  mountain  pastures,  you  can  go  down  into  the  plains  and  hunt 
the  buffialo,  or  trap  beaver  on  the  streams.  And  when  winter 
comes  on,  you  can  take  shelter  in  the  woody  bottoms  along  the 


ROSE,  THE   OUTLAW. 


191 


rivers ;  there  you  will  find  buflfalo  meat  for  yourselves,  and  cotton- 
wood  bark  for  your  horses  :  or  you  may  winter  in  the  Wind  River 
valley,  where  there  is  salt  weed  in  abundance. 

"  The  Crow  country  is  exactly  in  the  right  place.  Every 
thing  good  is  to  be  found  there.  There  is  no  country  like  the 
Crow  country." 

Such  is  the  eulogiura  on  his  country  by  Arapooish. 

We  have  had  repeated  occasions  to  speak  of  the  restless  and 
predatory  habits  of  the  Crows.  They  can  muster  fifteen  hundred 
fighting  men  ;  but  their  incessant  wars  with  the  Blackfeet,  and 
their  vagabond,  predatory  habits,  are  gradually  wearing  them  out. 

In  a  recent  work,  we  related  the  circumstance  of  a  white  man 
named  Rose,  an  outlaw,  and  a  designing  vagabond,  who  acted  as 
guide  and  interpreter  to  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party,  on  their  jour- 
ney across  the  mountains  to  Astoria,  who  came  near  betraying 
them  into  the  hands  of  the  Crows,  and  who  remained  among  the 
tribe,  marrying  one  of  their  women,  and  adopting  their  congenial 
habits.*  A  few  anecdotes  of  the  subsequent  fortunes  of  that 
renegade  may  not  be  uninteresting,  especially  as  they  are  con- 
nected with  the  fortunes  of  the  tribe. 

Rose  was  powerful  in  frame  and  fearless  in  spirit ;  and  soon 
by  his  daring  deeds  took  his  rank  among  the  first  braves  of  the 
tribe.  He  aspired  to  command,  and  knew  it  was  only  to  be  at- 
tained by  desperate  exploits.  He  distinguished  himself  in  re- 
peated actions  with  the  Blackfeet.  On  one  occasion,  a  band  of 
those  savages  had  fortified  themselves  within  a  breastwork,  and 
could  not  be  harmed.  Rose  proposed  to  storm  the  work.  "  Who 
will  take  the  lead  ?"  was  the  demand.     "  I !"  cried  he ;  and  put- 

*  See  Astoria. 


\ 


192 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


i! 


il 


ting  himself  at  their  head,  rushed  forward.  The  first  Blackfoot 
that  opposed  him  he  shot  down  with  his  rifle,  and,  snatching  up 
the  war-club  of  his  victim,  killed  four  others  within  the  fort.  The 
victory  was  complete,  and  Rose  returned  to  the  Crow  village 
covered  with  glory,  and  bearing  five  Blackfoot  scalps,  to  be  erected 
as  a  trophy  before  his  lodge.  From  this  time,  he  was  known 
among  the  Crows  by  the  name  of  Che-ku-kaats,  or  "  the  man  who 
killed  five."  He  became  chief  of  the  village,  or  rather  band,  and 
for  a  time  was  the  popular  idol.  His  popularity  soon  awakened 
envy  among  the  native  braves ;  he  was  a  stranger,  an  intruder,  a 
white  man.  A  party  seceded  from  his  command.  Feuds  and 
civil  wars  succeeded  that  lasted  for  two  or  three  years,  until  Rose, 
having  contrived  to  set  his  adopted  brethren  by  the  ears,  left 
them,  and  went  down  the  Missouri  in  1823.  Here  he  fell  in  with 
one  of  the  earliest  trapping  expeditions  sent  by  General  Ashley 
across  the  mountains.  It  was  conducted  by  Smith,  Fitzpatrick, 
and  Sublette.  Rose  enlisted  with  them  as  guide  and  interpreter 
When  he  got  them  among  the  Crows,  he  was  exceedingly  gene- 
rous with  their  goods ;  making  presents  to  the  braves  of  his 
adopted  tribe,  as  became  a  high-minded  chief 

This,  doubtless,  helped  to  revive  his  popularity.  In  that  ex- 
pedition. Smith  and  Fitzpatrick  were  robbed  of  their  horses  in 
Green  River  valley ;  the  place  where  the  robbery  took  place  still 
bears  the  name  of  Horse  Creek.  We  are  not  informed  whether 
the  horses  were  stolen  through  the  instigation  and  management 
of  Rose ;  it  is  not  improbable,  for  such  was  the  perfidy  he  had 
intended  to  practise  on  a  former  occasion  towards  Mr.  Hunt  and 
his  party. 

The  last  anecdote  we  have  of  Rose  is  frpm  an  Indian  trader. 
When  General  Atkinson  made  his  military  expedition  up  the 


ROSE,  THE   OUTLAW. 


193 


y--!  « 


Missouri,  in  1825,  to  protect  the  fur  trade,  he  held  a  conference 
^7ith  the  Crow  nation,  at  which  Eose  figured  as  Indian  dignitary 
and  Crow  interpreter.  The  military  were  stationed  at  some  little 
distance  from  the  scene  of  the  '*  big  talk  ;"  while  the  general  and 
the  chiefs  were  smoking  pipes  and  making  speeches,  the  officers, 
supposing  nil  was  friendly,  left  the  troops,  and  drew  near  the 
scene  of  ceremonial.  Some  of  the  more  knowing  Crows,  per- 
ceiving this,  stole  quietly  to  the  camp,  and,  unobserved,  contrived 
to  stop  the  touch-holes  of  the  field-pieces  with  dirt.  Shortly  after, 
a  misunderstanding  occurred  in  the  conference :  some  of  the  In- 
dians, knowing  the  cannon  to  be  useless,  became  insolent.  A 
tumult  arose.  In  the  confusion,  Colonel  O'Fallan  snapped  a  pis- 
tol in  the  face  of  a  brave,  and  knocked  him  down  with  the  butt 
end.  The  Crows  were  all  in  a  fury.  A  chance-medley  fight  was 
on  the  point  of  taking  place,  when  Rose,  his  natural  sympathies 
as  a  white  man  suddenly  recurring,  broke  the  stock  of  his  fusee 
over  the  head  of  a  Crow  warrior,  and  laid  so  vigorously  about  him 
with  the  barrel,  that  he  soon  put  the  whole  throng  to  flight. 
Luckily,  as  no  lives  had  been  lost,  this  sturdy  ribroasting  calmed 
the  fury  of  the  Crows,  and  the  tumult  ended  without  serious  con- 
sequences. 

What  was  the  ultimate  fate  of  this  vagabond  hero  is  not  dis- 
tinctly known.  Some  report  him  to  have  fallen  a  victim  to 
disease,  brought  on  by  his  licentious  life ;  others  assert  that  he 
was  murdered  in  a  feud  among  the  Crows.  After  all,  his  resi- 
dence among  these  savages,  and  the  influence  he  acquired  over 
them,  had,  for  a  time,  some  beneficial  effects.  He  is  said,  not 
merely  to  have  rendered  them  more  formidable  to  the  Blackfeet, 
but  to  have  opened  their  eyes  to  the  policy  of  cultivating  the 

friendship  of  the  white  men. 

9 


.  K^ 


id4 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


Il*    ' 


After  Rose's  death,  his  policy  continued  to  be  cultivated,  with 
indifferent  success,  by  Arapooish,  the  chief  already  mentioned, 
who  had  been  his  great  friend,  and  whose  character  he  hud  con- 
tributed to  develope.  This  sagacious  chief  endeavored,  on  every 
occasion,  to  restrain  the  predatory  propensities  of  his  tribe  when 
directed  against  the  white  men.  "  If  we  keep  friends  with  them," 
said  he,  "  we  have  nothing  to  fear  from  the  Blackfeet,  and  can 
rule  the  mountains."  Arapooish  pretended  to  be  a  great  "  medi- 
cine man ;"  a  character  among  the  Indians  which  is  a  compound 
of  priest,  doctor,  prophet,  and  conjurer.  He  carried  about  with 
him  a  tame  eagle,  as  his  "medicine"  or  familiar.  With  the 
white  men,  he  acknowledged  that  this  was  all  charlatanism  ;  but 
said  it  was  necessary,  to  give  him  weight  and  influence  among  his 
people. 

Mr.  Robert  Campbell,  from  whom  we  have  most  of  these  fiicts, 
in  the  course  of  one  of  his  trapping  expeditions,  was  quartered 
in  the  village  of  Arapooish,  and  a  guest  in  the  lodge  of  the  chief- 
tain. He  had  collected  a  large  quantity  of  furs,  and,  fearful  of 
being  plundered,  deposited  but  a  part  in  the  lodge  of  the  chief; 
the  rest  he  buried  in  a  cache.  One  night,  Arapooish  came  into 
the  lodge  with  a  cloudy  brow,  and  seated  himself  for  a  time  with- 
out saying  a  word.  At  length,  turning  to  Campbell,  "  You  have 
more  furs  with  you,"  said  he,  "  than  you  have  brought  into  my 
lodge?" 

"  I  have,"  replied  Campbell. 

"  Where  are  they  ?" 

Campbell  knew  the  uselessness  of  any  prevarication  with  an 
Indian ;  and  the  importance  of  complete  frankness.  He  described 
the  exact  place  where  he  had  concealed  his  peltries. 

"'Tiswell,"  replied  Arapooish ;  '^you  speak  straight.     It  is 


^ 


vow  OF   ARAPOOISH. 


195 


just  as  you  say.  But  your  cache  has  been  robbed.  Go  and  see 
how  many  skins  have  been  taken  from  it." 

Campbell  examined  the  cache,  and  estimated  bis  loss  to  be 
about  one  hundred  and  fifty  beaver  skins. 

Arapooish  now  summoned  a  meeting  of  the  village.  He  bit- 
terly reproached  his  people  for  robbing  a  stranger  who  had  co|i- 
fided  to  their  honor ;  and  commanded  that  whoever  had  taken 
the  skins,  should  bring  them  back :  declaring  that,  as  Campbell 
was  his  guest  and  inmate  of  his  lodge,  he  would  not  eat  nor 
drink  until  every  skin  was  restored  to  him. 

The  meeting  broke  up,  and  every  one  dispersed.  Arapooish 
now  charged  Campbell  to  give  neither  reward  nor  thanks  to  any 
one  who  should  bring  in  the  beaver  skins,  but  to  keep  count  as 
they  were  delivered. 

In  a  little  while,  the  skins  began  to  make  their  appearance,  a 
few  at  a  time  ;  they  were  laid  down  in  the  lodge,  and  those  who 
brought  them  departed  without  saying  a  word.  The  day  passed 
away.  Arapooish  sat  in  one  corner  of  his  lodge,  wrapped  up  in 
his  robe,  scarcely  moving  a  muscle  of  his  countenance.  When 
night  arrived,  he  demanded  if  all  the  skins  had  been  brought  in. 
Above  a  hundred  had  been  given  up,  and  Campbell  expressed 
himself  contented.  Not  so  the  Crow  chieftain.  He  fasted  all 
that  night,  nor  tasted  a  drop  of  water.  In  the  morning,  some 
more  skins  were  brought  in,  and  continued  to  come,  one  and  two 
at  a  time,  throughout  the  day  ;  until  but  a  few  were  wanting  to 
make  the  number  complete.  Campbell  was  now  anxious  to  put 
an  end  to  this  fasting  of  the  old  chief,  and  again  declared  that 
he  was  perfectly  satisfied.  Arapooish  demanded  what  number 
of  skins  were  yet  wanting.  On  being  told,  he  whispered  to  some 
of  his  people,  who  disappeared.     After  a  time  the  number  were 


196 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


brought  in,  though  it  was  evident  they  were  not  any  of  the  skins 
that  had  been  stolen,  but  others  gleaned  in  the  village.  * 

"  Is  all  right  now  ?"  demanded  Arapooish. 

"  All  is  right,"  replied  Campbell. 

"  Good  !     Now  bring  me  meat  and  drink  !" 

When  they  were  alone  together,  Arapooish  had  a  conversa- 
tion with  his  guest. 

"  When  you  come  another  time  among  the  Crows,"  said  he, 
"  don't  hide  your  goods  :  trust  to  them  and  they  will  not  wrong 
you.  Put  your  goods  in  the  lodge  of  a  chief,  and  they  are  sa- 
cred ;  hide  them  in  a  cache,  and  any  one  who  finds  will  steal 
them.  My  people  have  now  given  up  your  goods  for  my  sake  ; 
but  there  are  some  foolish  young  men  in  the  village,  who  may  be 
disposed  to  be  troublesome.  Don't  linger,  therefore,  but  pack 
your  horses  and  be  olF." 

Campbell  took  his  advice,  and  made  his  way  safely  out  of  the 
Crow  country.  He  has  ever  since  maintained,  that  the  Crows 
are  not  so  black  as  they  are  painted.  "  Trust  to  their  honor," 
says  he,  "  and  you  are  safe :  trust  to  their  honesty,  and  they  will 
steal  the  hair  off  of  your  head." 

Having  given  these  few  preliminary  particulars,  we  will  re- 
sume the  course  of  our  narrative. 


t 


ROUTE  TO  THE  CROW  COUNTRY. 


197 


\i 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Departure  from  Green  River  valley. — Popo  Agie — its  course — the  rivers  into 
which  it  runs. — Scenery  of  the  Bluffs. — The  great  Tar  Spring. — Volcanic 
tracts  in  the  Crow  country. — Burning  mountain  of  Powder  River. — Sul- 
phur springs. — Hidden  fires. — Colter's  Hell. — Wind  River. — Campbell's 
party. — Fitzputrick  and  his  trappers. — Captain  Stewart,  an  amateur  travel- 
ler.— Nathaniel  Wyeth — anecdotes  of  his  expedition  to  the  Far  West. — 
Disaster  of  Campbell's  party  — A  union  of  bands. — The  Bad  Pass. — The 
rapids. — Departure  of  Fitzpatrick. — Embarkation  of  peltries. — Wyeth  and 
his  bull  boat. — Adventures  of  Captain  Bonneville  in  the  Bighorn  Moun- 
tains.— Adventures  in  the  plain — Traces  of  Indians. — Travelling  precau- 
tions.— Dangers  of  making  a  smoke. — The  rendezvous. 


On  the  25th  of  July,  Captain  Bonneville  struck  his  tents,  and 
set  out  on  his  route  for  the  Bighorn,  at  the  head  of  a  party  of 
fifty-six  men,  including  those  who  were  to  embark  with  Cerre. 
Crossing  the  Green  River  valley,  he  proceeded  along  the  south 
point  of  the  Wind  River  range  of  mountains,  and  soon  fell  upon 
the  track  of  Mr.  Robert  Campbell's  party,  which  had  preceded 
him  by  a  day.  This  he  pursued,  until  he  perceived  that  it  led 
down  the  banks  of  the  Sweet  Water  to  the  southeast.  As  this 
was  diflferent  from  his  proposed  direction,  he  left  it ;  and  turning 
to  the  northeast,  soon  came  upon  the  waters  of  the  Popo  Agie. 
This  stream  takes  its  rise  in  the  Wind  River  Mountains.    Its 


198 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


■i 


name,  like  most  Indian  names,  is  characteristic.  Popo,  in  the 
Crow  language,  signifying  head  ;  and  Agio,  river.  It  is  the  head 
of  a  long  river,  extending  from  the  south  end  of  the  Wind  River 
Mountains  in  a  northeast  direction,  until  it  falls  into  the  Yellow- 
stone. Its  course  is  generally  through  plains,  but  is  twice 
crossed  by  chains  of  mountains  ;  the  first  called  the  Littlehorn  ; 
the  second,  the  Bighorn.  After  it  has  forced  its  way  through 
the  first  chain,  it  is  called  the  Horn  River ;  after  the  second 
chain,  it  is  called  the  Bighorn  River.  Its  passage  through  this 
last  chain  is  rough  and  violent ;  making  repeated  falls,  and  rush- 
ing down  long  and  furious  rapids,  which  threaten  destruction  to 
the  navigator  ;  though  a  hardy  trapper  is  said  to  have  shot  down 
them  in  a  canoe.  At  the  foot  of  these  rapids,  is  the  head  of 
navigation  ;  where  it  was  the  intention  of  the  parties  to  construct 
boats,  and  embark. 

Proceeding  down  along  the  Popo  Agie,  Captain  Bonneville 
came  again  in  full  view  of  the  "  Bluffs,"  as  they  are  called,  ex- 
tending from  the  base  of  the  Wind  River  Mountains  far  away  to 
the  east,  and  presenting  to  the  eye  a  confusion  of  hills  and  cliifs 
of  red  sandstone,  some  peaked  and  angular,  some  round,  some 
broken  into  crags  and  precipices,  and  piled  up  in  fantastic  masses ; 
but  all  naked  and  sterile.  There  appeared  to  be  no  soil  favorable 
to  vegetation,  nothing  but  coarse  gravel ;  yet,  over  all  this  iso- 
lated, barren  landscape,  were  diffused  such  atmospherical  tints 
and  hues,  as  to  blend  the  whole  into  harmony  and  beauty. 

In  this  neighborhood,  the  captain  made  search  for  "  the  great 
Tar  Spring,"  one  of  the  wonders  of  the  mountains ;  the  medi- 
cinal properties  of  which,  he  had  heard  extravagantly  lauded  by 
the  trappers.  After  a  toilsome  search,  he  found  it  at  the  foot  of 
a  sand-bluff,  a  little  to  the  east  of  the  Wind  River  Mountains ; 


VOLCANIC   TRACTS. 


199 


where  it  exuded  in  a  small  stream  of  the  color  and  oonsistenoy. 
of  tar.  The  mei.  immediately  hastened  to  collect  a  quantity  of 
it,  to  use  as  an  ointment  for  the  gulled  backs  of  their  horses,  and 
as  a  balsam  for  their  own  pains  and  aches.  From  the  description 
given  of  it,  it  is  evidently  the  bituminous  oil,  called  pctrolium, 
or  naphtha,  which  forms  a  principal  ingredient  in  the  potent  medi- 
cine called  British  Oil.  It  is  found  in  various  parts  of  Europe 
and  Asia,  in  several  of  the  West  India  islands,  and  in  some 
places  of  the  United  States.  In  the  state  of  New  York,  it  is 
called  Seneca  Oil,  from  being  found  near  the  Seneca  lake. 

The  Crow  country  has  other  natural  curiosities,  which  are 
held  in  superstitious  awe  by  the  Indians,  and  considered  great 
marvels  by  the  trappers.  Such  is  the  Burning  Mountain,  on 
Powder  River,  abounding  with  anthracite  coal.  Here  the  earth 
is  hot  and  cracked ;  in  many  places  emitting  smoke  and  sulphur* 
ous  vapors,  as  if  covering  concealed  fires.  A  volcanic  tract  of 
similar  character  is  found  on  Stinking  lliver,  one  of  the  tributa- 
ries of  the  Bighorn,  which  takes  its  unhappy  name  from  the 
odor  derived  from  sulphurous  springs  and  streams.  This  last 
mentioned  place  was  first  discovered  by  Colter,  a  hunter  belong- 
ing to  Lewis  and  Clarke's  exploring  party,  who  came  upon  it  in 
the  course  of  his  lonely  wanderings,  and  gave  such  an  account  of 
its  gloomy  terrors,  its  hidden  fires,  smoking  pits,  noxious  steams, 
and  the  all-pervading  "  smell  of  brimstone,"  that  it  received,  and 
has  ever  since  retained  among  trappers,  the  name  of  "  Colter's 
Hell!" 

Resuming  his  descent  along  the  left  bank  of  the  Popo  Agie, 
Captain  Bonneville  soon  reached  the  plains ;  where  he  found 
several  large  streams  entering  from  the  west.  Among  these  was 
-Wind  River,  which  gives  its  name  to  the  mountains  among  which 


too 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


i 


li     i 


it  takes  its  rise.  This  is  one  of  the  most  important  streams  of 
the  Crow  country.  The  river  being  much  swollen,  Captuin 
Bonneville  halted  at  its  mouth,  and  sent  out  scouts  to  look  for  a 
fording  place.  While  thus  encamped,  he  beheld  in  the  course  of 
the  afternoon,  a  long  line  of  horsemen  descending  the  slope  of 
the  hills  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Popo  Agie.  His  first  idea 
was,  that  they  were  Indians ;  he  soon  discovered,  however,  that 
they  were  white  men,  and,  by  the  long  line  of  pack-horses,  ascer- 
tained them  to  be  the  convoy  of  Campbell,  which,  having  de- 
scended the  Sweet  Water,  was  now  on  its  way  to  the  Horn 
River. 

The  two  parties  came  together  two  or  three  days  afterwards, 
on  the  4th  of  August,  after  having  passed  through  the  gap  of 
the  Littlehorn  Mountain.  In  company  with  Campbell'si  convoy, 
was  a  trapping  party  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Company,  headed 
by  Fitzpatrick ;  who,  after  Campbell's  embarkation  on  the  Big- 
horn, was  to  take  charge  of  all  the  horses,  and  proceed  on  a 
trapping  campaign.  There  were,  moreover,  two  chance  compan- 
ions in  the  rival  camp.  One  was  Captain  Stewart,  of  the  British 
army,  a  gentleman  of  noble  connections,  who  was  amusing  him- 
self by  a  wandering  tour  in  the  Far  West ;  in  the  course  of 
which,  he  had  lived  in  hunter's  style;  accompanying  various 
bands  of  traders,  trappers,  and  Indians ;  and  manifesting  that 
relish  for  the  wilderness  that  belongs  to  men  of  game  spirit. 

The  other  casual  inmate  of  Mr.  Campbell's  camp  was  Mr. 
Nathaniel  Wycth  ;  the  self-same  leader  of  the  band  of  New  Eng- 
land salmon  fishers,  with  whom  we  parted  company  in  the  valley 
of  Pierre's  Hole,  after  the  battle  with  the  Blackfeet.  A  few 
days  after  that  affair,  he  again  set  out  from  the  rendezvous  in 
company  with  Milton  Sublette  and  his  brigade  of  trappers.     On 


MR.  WYETH  AND  HIS  BAND. 


901 


hia  march,  ho  visited  the  battle  ground,  and  penetrated  to  the 
deserted  fort  of  the  Blackfeet  in  the  midst  of  the  wood.  It  was 
a  dismal  scene.  The  fort  was  strewed  with  the  mouldering 
bodies  of  the  slain ;  while  vultures  soared  aloft,  or  sat  brooding 
on  the  trees  around ;  and  Indian  dogs  howled  about  the  place, 
as  if  bewailing  the  death  of  their  masters.  Wyeth  travelled  for 
a  considerable  distance  to  the  southwest,  in  company  with  Milton 
Sublette,  when  they  separated  ;  and  the  former,  with  eleven  men, 
the  remnant  of  his  band,  pushed  on  for  Snake  River ;  kept  down 
the  course  of  that  eventful  stream  ;  traversed  the  Blue  Mountains, 
trapping  beaver  occasionally  by  the  way,  and  finally,  after  hard- 
ships of  all  kinds,  arrived,  on  the  29th  of  October,  at  Vancouver, 
on  the  Columbia,  the  main  factory  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany. 

He  experienced  hospitable  treatment  at  the  hands  of  the 
agents  of  that  company ;  but  his  men,  heartily  tired  of  wandering 
in  the  wilderness,  or  tempted  by  other  prospects,  refused,  for  the 
most  part,  to  continue  any  longer  in  his  service.  Some  set  off  for 
the  Sandwich  Islands  ;  some  entered  into  other  employ.  Wyeth 
found,  too,  that  a  great  part  of  the  goods  he  had  brought  with 
him  were  unfitted  for  the  Indian  trade ;  in  a  word,  his  expedi- 
tion, undertaken  entirely  on  his  own  resources,  proved  a  failure. 
He  lost  every  thing  invested  in  it,  but  his  hopes.  These  were  as 
strong  as  ever.  He  took  note  of  every  thing,  therefore,  that 
could  be  of  service  to  him  in  the  further  prosecution  of  his  pro- 
ject ;  collected  all  the  information  within  his  reach,  and  then  set 
off,  accompanied  by  merely  two  men,  on  his  return  journey  across 
the  continent.  He  had  got  thus  far  "  by  hook  and  by  crook,"  a 
mode  in  which  a  New  England  man  can  make  his  way  all  over 
the  world,  and  through  all  kinds  of  difficulties,  and  was  now 

9* 


^■i 


309 


BONNEVILLK'S  ADVENTURES. 


i 


bound  for  Boston ;  in  full  confidonco  of  being  ublc  to  form  a 
company  for  tho  aulnion  fishery  and  fur  trade  of  the  Columbia. 

The  party  of  Mr.  Campbell  had  met  with  a  disaster  in  the 
course  of  their  route  from  the  Sweet  Water.  Three  or  four  of 
the  men,  who  were  reconnottcring  the  country  in  the  advance  of 
tho  main  body,  were  visited  one  night  in  their  camp,  by  fifteen  or 
twenty  Shoshonics.  Considering  this  tribe  as  perfectly  friendly, 
they  received  them  in  the  most  cordial  and  confiding  manner. 
In  the  course  of  the  night,  the  man  on  guard  near  the  horses  fell 
sound  asleep ;  upon  which  a  ShoHJionio  shot  him  in  tho  head,  and 
nearly  killed  him.  The  savages  then  made  off  with  the  horses, 
leaving  the  rest  of  the  party  to  find  their  way  to  the  main  body 
on  foot. 

The  rival  companies  of  Captain  Bonneville  and  Mr.  Campbell, 
thus  fortuitously  brought  together,  now  prosecuted  their  journey 
in  great  good  fellowship ;  forming  a  joint  camp  of  about  u  hun- 
dred men.  The  captain,  however,  began  to  entertain  doubts  that 
Fitzpatrick  and  his  trappers,  who  kept  profound  silence  as  to 
their  future  movements,  intended  to  hunt  the  same  grounds 
which  he  had  selected  for  his  autumnal  campaign  ;  which  lay  to 
the  west  of  the  Horn  River,  on  its  tributary  streams.  In  tho 
course  of  his  march,  therefore,  he  secretly  detached  a  small  party 
of  trappers,  to  make  their  way  to  those  hunting  grounds,  while 
he  continued  on  with  the  main  body ;  appointing  a  rendezvous, 
at  the  next  full  moon,  about  the  28th  of  August,  at  a  place  called 
the  Medicine  Lodge. 

On  reaching  the  second  chain,  called  the  Bighorn  Mountains, 
where  the  river  forced  its  impetuous  way  through  a  precipitous 
defile,  with  cascades  and  rapids,  the  travellers  were  obliged  to 
leave  its  banks,  and  traverse  the  mountains  by  a  rugged  and 


in 


BULL-BOATS— EMBARK  ATIOMP. 


90S 


while 


frightful  route,  emphatically  called  thi  Bad  Pass."  Descending 
the  opposite  side,  they  again  made  for  the  rivr  bunks  ;  and  about 
the  middle  of  August,  reached  the  point  below  the  rapids,  where 
the  river  becomes  navigable  for  boats.  Here  Captain  Bonuoville 
detached  a  second  party  of  trappers,  consisting  of  ten  men,  to 
seek  and  join  those  whom  he  had  detached  while  on  the  route ; 
appointing  for  them  the  same  rendezvous,  (at  the  Medicine 
Lodge,)  on  the  28th  of  August. 

All  hands  now  set  to  work  to  construct  "  bull  boats,"  as  they 
are  technically  called  ;  a  light,  fragile  kind  of  bark,  oharacteristio 
of  the  expedients  and  inventions  of  the  wilderness  ;  being  formed 
of  buffalo  skins,  stretched  on  frames.  They  are  sometimes,  also, 
called  skin  boats.  Wyeth  was  the  first  ready ;  and,  with  his 
usual  promptness  and  hardihood,  launched  his  frail  bark,  singly, 
on  this  wild  and  hazardous  voyage,  down  an  almost  interminable 
succession  of  rivers,  winding  through  countries  teeming  with 
savage  hordes.  Milton  Sublette,  his  former  fellow  traveller,  and 
his  companion  in  the  battle  scenes  of  Pierre's  Hole,  took  passage 
in  his  boat.  His  crew  consisted  of  two  white  men,  and  two 
Indians.  We  shall  hear  further  of  Wyeth,  and  his  wild  voyage, 
in  the  course  of  our  wanderings  about  the  Far  West. 

The  remaining  parties  soon  completed  their  several  arma- 
ments. That  of  Captain  Bonneville  was  composed  of  three  bull 
boats,  in  which  he  embarked  all  his  peltries,  giving  them  in 
charge  of  Mr.  Cerre,  with  a  party  of  thirty-six  men.  Mr.  Camp- 
bell took  command  of  his  own  boats,  and  the  little  squadrons 
were  soon  gliding  down  the  bright  current  of  the  Bighorn. 

The  secret  precautions  which  Captain  Bonneville  had  taken, 
to  throw  his  men  first  into  the  trapping  ground  west  of  the 
Bighorn,  were,  probably,  superfluous.     It  did  not  appear  that 


,i 


304 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


Fitzpatrick  had  intended  to  hunt  in  that  direction.  The  moment 
Mr.  Campbell  and  his  men  embarked  with  the  peltries,  Fitzpat- 
rick took  charge  of  all  the  horses,  amounting  to  above  a  hundred, 
and  struck  oflF  to  the  east,  to  trap  upon  Littlehorn,  Powder,  and 
Tongue  Rivers.  He  was  accompanied  by  Captain  Stewart,  who 
was  desirous  of  having  a  range  about  the  Crow  country.  Of  the 
adventures  they  met  with  in  that  region  of  vagabonds  and  horse 
stealers,  we  shall  have  something  to  relate  hereafter. 

Captain  Bonneville  being  now  left  to  prosecute  his  trapping 
campaign  without  rivalry,  set  out,  on  the  17th  of  August,  for  the 
rendezvous  at  Medicine  Lodge.  He  had  but  four  men  remaining 
with  him,  and  forty-six  horses  to  take  care  of ;  with  these  he  had 
to  make  his  way  OA'er  mountain  and  plain,  through  a  marauding, 
horse-stealing  region,  full  of  peril  for  a  numerous  cavalcade  so 
slightly  manned.  He  addressed  himself  to  his  difficult  journey, 
however,  with  his  usual  alacrity  of  spirit. 

in  the  afternoon  of  his  first  day's  journey,  on  drawing  near 
to  the  Biglioru  Mountain,  on  the  summit  of  which  he  intended 
to  encamp  for  the  night,  he  observed,  to  his  disquiet,  a  cloud  of 
smoke  rising  from  its  base.  He  came  to  a  halt,  and  watched  it 
anxiously.  It  was  very  irregular ;  sometimes  it  would  almost 
die  away  ;  and  then  would  mount  up  in  heavy  volumes.  There 
was,  apparently,  a  large  party  encamped  there  ;  probably,  some 
ruffian  horde  of  Blackfcet.  At  any  rate,  it  would  not  do  for  so 
small  a  number  of  men,  with  so  numerous  a  cavalcade,  to  venture 
within  sight  of  any  wandering  tribe.  Captain  Bonneville  and 
his  companions,  therefore,  avoided  this  dangerous  neighborhood ; 
and,  proceeding  with  extreme  caution,  reached  the  summit  of  the 
mountain,  apparently  without  being  discovered.  Here  they  found 
a  deserted  Blackfoot  fort,  in  which  they  ensconced  themselves  ; 


SIGNS  OF  INDIANS. 


205 


disposed  of  every  thing  as  securely  as  possible,  and  passed  the 
night  Mvithout  molestation.  Early  the  next  morning  they  de- 
scended the  south  side  of  the  mountain  into  the  great  plain  ex- 
tending between  it  and  the  Littlehorn  range.  Here  they  soon 
came  upon  numerous  footprints,  and  the  carcasses  of  buffaloes  ; 
by  which  they  knew  there  must  be  Indians  not  far  off.  Captain 
Bonneville  now  began  to  feel  solicitude  about  the  two  small  par- 
ties of  trappers  which  he  had  detached ;  lest  the  Indians  should 
have  come  upon  them  before  they  had  united  their  forces.  But 
he  felt  still  more  solicitude  about  his  own  party  ;  for  it  was  hardly 
to  be  expected  he  could  traverse  these  naked  plains  undiscovered, 
when  Indians  were  abroad  ;  and  should  he  be  discovered,  his 
chance  would  be  a  desperate  one.  Every  thing  now  depended 
upon  the  greatest  circumspection.  It  was  dangerous  to  discharge 
a  gun,  or  light  a  fire,  or  make  the  least  noise,  where  such  quick- 
eared  and  quick-sighted  enemies  were  at  hand.  In  the  course  of 
the  day  they  saw  indubitable  signs  that  the  buffalo  had  been 
roaming  there  in  great  numbers,  and  had  recently  been  frightened 
away.  That  night  they  encamped  with  the  greatest  care ;  and 
threw  up  a  strong  breastwork  for  their  protection. 

For  the  two  succeeding  days  they  pressed  forward  rapidly, 
but  cautiously,  across  the  great  plain  ;  fording  the  tributary 
streams  of  the  Horn  River  ;  encamping  one  night  among  thickets  ; 
the  next,  on  an  island  ;  meeting,  repeatedly,  with  traces  of  In- 
dians ;  and  now  and  then,  in  passing  through  a  defile,  experien- 
cing alarms  that  induced  them  to  cock  their  rifles. 

On  the  last  day  of  their  march  hunger  got  the  better  of  their 
caution,  and  they  shot  a  fine  buffalo  bull  at  the  risk  of  being  be- 
trayed by  the  report.  They  did  not  halt  to  make  a  meal,  but 
carried  the  meat  on  with  them  to  the  place  of  rendezvous,  the 


E.« 


306 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


Medicine  Lodge,  where  they  arrived  safely,  in  the  evening,  and 
celebrated  their  arrival  by  a  hearty  supper. 

The  next  morning  they  erected  a  strong  pen  for  the  horses, 
and  a  fortress  of  logs  for  themselves  ;  and  continued  to  observe 
the  greatest  caution.  Their  cooking  was  all  done  at  mid-day, 
when  the  fire  makes  no  glare,  and  a  moderate  smoke  cannot  be 
perceived  at  any  great  distance.  In  the  morning  and  the  eve- 
ning, when  the  wind  is  lulled,  the  smoke  rises  perpendicularly  in 
a  blue  column,  or  floats  in  light  clouds  above  the  tree-tops,  and 
can  be  discovered  from  afar. 

In  this  way  the  little  party  remained  for  several  days,  cau- 
tiously encamped,  until,  on  the  29th  of  August,  the  two  detach- 
ments they  had  been  expecting,  arrived  together  at  the  rendez- 
vous. They,  as  usual,  had  their  several  tales  of  adventures  to 
relate  to  the  captain,  which  we  will  furnish  to  the  reader  in  the 
next  chapter. 


THE   BALAAMITE   MULE. 


207 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Adventures  of  the  party  of  ten. — The  Balaamite  mule. — A  dead  point. — The 
mysterious  elks. — A  night  attack. — A  retreat. — Travelling  under  an  alarm. 
— A  joyful  meeting. — Adventures  of  the  other  party. — A  decoy  elk — re- 
treat to  an  island  — A  savage  dance  of  triumph. — Arrival  at  Wind  River. 

The  adventures  of  the  detachment  of  ten  are  the  first  in  order. 
These  trappers,  when  they  separated  from  Captain  Bonneville  at 
the  place  where  the  furs  were  embarked,  proceeded  to  the  foot 
of  the  Bighorn  Mountain,  and  having  encamped,  one  of  them 
mounted  his  mule  and  went  out  to  set  his  trap  in  a  neighboring 
stream.  He  had  not  proceeded  far  when  his  steed  came  to  a  full 
stop.  The  trapper  kicked  and  cudgelled,  but  to  every  blow  and 
kick  the  mule  snorted  and  kicked  up,  but  still  refused  to  budge 
an  inch.  The  rider  now  cast  his  eyes  warily  around  in  search  of 
some  cause  for  this  demur,  when,  to  his  dismay,  he  discovered  an 
Indian  fort  within  gunshot  distance,  lowering  through  the  twi- 
light. In  a  twinkling  he  wheeled  about ;  his  mule  now  seemed 
as  eager  to  get  on  as  himself,  and  in  a  few  moments  brought  him, 
clattei..  g  with  his  traps,  among  his  comrades.  He  was  jeered  at 
for  his  alacrity  in  retreating ;  his  report  was  treated  as  a  false 
alarm  ;  his  brother  trappers  contented  themselves  with  reconnoi- 
tring the  fort  at  a  distance,  and  pronounced  that  it  was  deserted. 
As  night  S9t  in,  the  usual  precaution,  enjoined  by  Captain 


^n 


208 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


h 


y 


Bonneville  on  his  men,  was  observed.  The  horses  wore  brought 
in  and  tied,  and  a  guard  stationed  over  thcni.  This  done,  the 
men  wrapped  themselves  in  their  blankets,  stretched  tliemselves 
before  the  fire,  and  being  fatigued  witli  a  long  day's  march,  and 
gorged  with  a  hearty  supper,  were  soon  in  a  profound  sleep. 

The  camp  fires  gradually  died  away ;  all  was  dark  and  silent ; 
the  sentinel  stationed  to  watch  the  horses  had  marched  as  far, 
and  supped  as  heartily  as  any  of  his  companions,  and  while  they 
snored,  he  began  to  nod  at  his  post.  After  a  time,  a  low  tramp- 
ling noise  reached  his  car.  He  half  opened  his  closing  eyes,  and 
beheld  two  or  three  elks  moving  about  the  lodges,  picking,  and 
smelling,  and  grazing  here  and  there.  The  sight  of  elk  within 
the  purlieus  of  the  camp  caused  some  little  surprise  ;  but,  having 
had  his  supper,  he  cared  not  for  elk  meat,  and,  suffering  them  to 
graze  about  unmolested,  soon  relapsed  into  a  doze. 

Suddenly,  before  daybreak,  a  discharge  of  firearms,  and  a 
struggle  and  tramp  of  horses,  made  every  one  start  to  his  feet. 
The  first  move  was  to  secure  the  horses.  Some  were  gone ;  others 
were  struggling,  and  kicking,  and  trembling,  for  there  was  a  hor- 
rible uproar  of  whoops,  and  yells,  and  firearms.  Several  trappers 
stole  quietly  from  the  camp,  and  succeeded  in  driving  in  the 
horses  which  had  broken  away  ;  the  rest  were  tethered  still  more 
strongly.  A  breastwork  was  thrown  up  of  saddles,  baggage,  and 
camp  furniture,  and  all  hands  waited  anxiously  for  daylight. 
The  Indians,  in  the  meantime,  collected  on  a  neighboring  height, 
kept  up  the  most  horrible  clamor,  in  hopes  of  striking  a  panio 
into  the  camp,  or  frightening  oif  the  horses.  When  the  day 
dawned,  the  trappers  attacked  them  briskly  and  drove  them  to 
some  distance.  A  desultory  firing  was  kept  up  for  an  hour,  v.hen 
the  Indians,  seeing  nothing  was  to  be  gained,  gave  up  the  contest 


TRAVELLING  AMID  DANGERS. 


909 


and  retired.  They  proved  to  be  a  war  party  of  Blaekfeet,  who, 
while  in  search  of  the  Crow  tribe,  had  fallen  upon  the  trail  of 
Captain  Bonneville  on  the  Popo  Agie,  and  dogged  him  to  the 
Bighorn ;  but  had  been  completely  baffled  by  his  vigilance. 
They  had  then  waylaid  the  present  detachment,  and  were  actually 
housed  in  perfect  silence  within  their  fort,  when  the  mule  of  the 
trapper  made  such  a  dead  point. 

The  savages  went  off  uttering  the  wildest  denunciations  of 
hostility,  mingled  with  opprobrious  terms  in  broken  English,  and 
gesticulations  of  the  most  insulting  kind. 

In  this  melt'e,  one  white  man  was  wounded,  and  two  horses 
were  killed.  On  preparing  the  morning's  meal,  however,  a  num- 
ber of  cups,  knives,  and  other  articles  were  missing,  which  had, 
doubtless,  boon  carried  off  by  the  fictitious  elk,  during  the  slum- 
ber of  the  vory  sagacious  sentinel. 

As  the  Indians  had  gone  off  in  the  direction  which  the  trap- 
pers had  intended  to  travel,  the  latter  changed  their  route,  and 
pushed  forward  rapidly  through  the  "  Bad  Pass,"  nor  halted  un- 
til night ;  when,  supposing  themselves  out  of  the  reach  of  the 
enemy,  they  contented  themselves  with  tying  up  their  horses  and 
posting  a  guard.  They  had  scarce  laid  down  to  sleep,  when  a 
dog  strayed  into  the  camp  with  a  small  pack  of  moccasons  tied 
upon  his  back ;  for  dogs  are  made  to  carry  burdens  among  the 
Indians.  The  sentinel,  more  knowing  than  he  of  the  preceding 
night,  awoke  his  companions  and  reported  the  circumstance.  It 
was  evident  that  Indians  were  at  hand.  All  were  instantly  at 
work ;  a  strong  pen  was  soon  constructed  for  the  horses,  after 
completing  which,  they  resumed  their  slumbers  with  the  compo- 
sure of  men  long  inured  to  dangers. 

In  the  next  night,  the  prowling  of  dogs  about  the  camp,  and 


310 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


various  suspicious  noises,  showed  that  Indians  were  still  hovering 
about  them.  Hurrying  on  by  long  marches,  they  at  length  fell 
upon  a  trail,  which,  with  the  experienced  eye  of  veteran  woodmen, 
they  soon  discovered  to  be  that  of  the  party  of  trappers  detached 
by  Captain  Bonneville  when  on  his  march,  and  which  they  were 
sent  to  join.  They  likewise  ascertained  from  various  signs,  that 
this  party  had  suffered  some  maltreatment  from  the  Indians.  They 
now  pursued  the  trail  with  intense  anxiety ;  it  carried  them  to 
the  banks  of  the  stream  called  the  Gray  Bull,  and  down  along  its 
course,  until  they  came  to  where  it  empties  into  the  Horn  River. 
Here,  to  their  great  joy,  they  discovered  the  comrades  of  whom 
they  were  in  search,  all  strongly  fortified,  and  in  a  state  of  great 
watchfulness  and  anxiety. 

We  now  take  up  the  adventures  of  this  first  detachment  of 
trappers.  Tliese  men,  after  parting  with  the  main  body  under 
Captain  Bonneville,  had  proceeded  slowly  for  several  days  up  the 
course  of  the  river,  trapping  beaver  as  they  went.  One  morning, 
as  they  were  about  to  visit  their  traps,  one  of  the  camp-keepers 
pointed  to  a  fine  elk,  grazing  at  a  distance,  and  requested  them 
to  shoot  it.  Three  of  the  trappers  started  off  for  the  purpose. 
In  passing  a  thicket,  they  were  fired  upon  by  some  savages  in 
ambush,  and  at  the  same  time,  the  pretended  elk,  throwing  off 
his  hide  and  his  horn,  started  forth  an  Indian  warrior. 

One  of  the  three  trappers  had  been  brought  down  by  the  vol- 
ley ;  the  others  fled  to  the  camp,  and  all  hands,  seizing  up  what- 
ever they  could  carry  off,  retreated  to  a  small  island  in  the  river, 
and  took  refuge  among  the  willows.  Here  they  were  soon  joined 
by  their  comrade  who  had  fallen,  but  who  had  merely  been 
wounded  in  the  neck. 

In  the  meantime,  the  Indians  took  possession  of  the  deserted 


AN   INSULTING  WAR   DANCE. 


m 


camp,  with  all  the  traps,  accoutrements,  and  horses.  While  they 
were  busy  among  the  spoils,  a  solitary  trapper,  who  had  been  ab- 
sent at  his  work,  came  sauntering  to  the  camp  with  his  traps  on 
his  back.  He  had  approached  near  by,  when  an  Indian  came  for- 
ward and  motioned  him  to  keep  away ;  at  the  same  moment,  he 
was  perceived  by  his  comrades  on  the  island,  and  warned  of  his 
danger  with  loud  cries.  The  poor  fellow  stood  for  a  moment, 
bewildered  and  aghast,  then  dropping  his  traps,  wheeled  and 
made  off  at  full  speed,  quickened  by  a  sportive  volley  which  the 
Indians  rattled  after  him. 

In  high  good  humor  with  their  easy  triumpli,  the  savages  now 
formed  a  circle  round  the  fire  and  performed  a  war  dance,  with 
the  unlucky  trappers  for  rueful  spectators.  Tliis  done,  embold- 
ened by  what  they  considered  cowardice  on  the  part  of  the  white 
men,  they  neglected  their  usual  mode  of  bu.«h-tighting,  and  ad- 
vanced openly  within  twenty  paces  of  the  willows.  A  sharp 
volley  from  the  trappers  brought  them  to  a  sudden  halt,  and  laid 
three  of  them  breathless.  The  chief,  who  had  stationed  himself 
on  an  eminence  to  direct  all  the  movements  of  his  people,  seeing 
three  of  his  warriors  laid  low,  ordered  the  rest  to  retire.  They 
immediately  did  so,  and  the  whole  band  soon  disappeared  behind 
a  point  of  woods,  carrying  off  with  them  the  horses,  traps,  and 
the  greater  part  of  the  baggage. 

It  was  just  after  this  misfortune,  that  the  party  of  ten  men 
discovered  this  forlorn  band  of  trappers  in  a  fortress,  which  they 
had  thrown  up  after  their  disaster.  They  were  so  perfectly  dis- 
mayed, that  they  could  not  be  induced  even  to  go  in  quest  of 
their  traps,  which  they  had  set  in  a  neighboring  stream.  The 
two  parties  now  joined  their  forces,  and  made  their  way,  without 
further  misfortune,  to  the  rendezvous. 


,tHr. 

I'll 
\ 


313 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


Captain  Bonneville  perceived  from  the  reports  of  these  par- 
ties, as  well  as  from  what  he  had  observed  himself  in  his  recent 
march,  that  he  was  in  a  neighborhood  teeming  with  danger.  Two 
wandering  Snake  Indians,  also,  who  visited  the  camp,  assured 
him  that  there  were  two  large  bands  of  Crows  marching  rapidly 
upon  him.  He  broke  up  his  encampment,  therefore,  on  the  1st 
of  September,  made  his  way  to  the  south,  across  the  Littlehorn 
Mountain,  until  he  reached  Wind  River,  and  then  turning  west- 
ward, moved  slowly  up  the  banks  of  that  stream,  giving  time  for 
his  men  to  trap  as  he  proceeded.  As  it  was  not  in  the  plan  of 
the  present  hunting  campaign  to  go  near  the  caches  on  Green 
River,  and  as  the  trappers  were  in  want  of  traps  to  replace  those 
they  had  lost,  Captain  Bonneville  undertook  to  visit  the  caches, 
and  procure  a  supply.  To  accompany  him  in  this  hazardous  ex- 
pedition, which  would  take  him  through  the  defiles  of  the  Wind 
River  Mountains,  and  up  the  Green  River  valley,  he  took  but 
three  men  ;  the  main  party  were  to  continue  on  trapping  up  to- 
wards the  head  of  Wind  River,  near  which  he  was  to  rejoin  them, 
just  about  the  place  where  that  stream  issues  from  the  moun- 
tains. We  shall  accompany  the  captain  on  his  adventurous 
errand. 


THE   STARING  WHITE  BEARS. 


913 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

Captain  Bonneville  sets  out  for  Green  River  valley. — Journey  up  the  Popo 
Agie. — Buffaloes. — The  staring  white  bears. — The  smoke. — The  warm 
springs. — Attempt  to  traverse  the  Wind  River  Mountains. — The  Great 
Slope. — Mountain  dells  and  chasms. — Crystal  lakes. — Ascent  of  a  snowy 
peak. — Sublime  prospect. — A  panorama. — "  Les  dignes  de  pitie,"  or  wild 
men  of  the  mountains. 

Having  forded  Wind  River  a  little  above  its  mouth,  Captain 
Bonneville  and  his  three  companions  proceeded  across  a  gravelly 
plain,  until  they  fell  upon  the  Popo  Agie,  up  the  left  bank  of 
which  they  held  their  course,  nearly  in  a  southerly  direction. 
Here  they  came  upon  numerous  droves  of  buffalo,  and  halted  for 
the  purpose  of  procuring  a  supply  of  beef  As  the  hunters  were 
stealing  cautiously  to  get  within  shot  of  the  game,  two  small 
white  bears  suddenly  presented  themselves  in  their  path,  and, 
rising  upon  their  hind  legs,  contemplated  them  for  some  time, 
with  a  whimsically  solemn  gaze.  The  hunters  remained  motion- 
less ;  whereupon  the  bears,  having  apparently  satisfied  their 
curiosity,  lowered  themselves  upon  all  fours,  and  began  to  with- 
draw. The  hunters  now  advanced,  upon  which  the  bears  turned, 
rose  again  upon  their  haunches,  and  repeated  their  serio-comic 
examination.  This  was  repeated  several  times,  until  the  hunt- 
ers, piqued  at  their  unmannerly  staring,  rebuked  it  with  a  dis- 
charge of  their  rifles.     The  bears  made  an  awkward  bound  or 


fr'  :    ' 


\  If 


il 


1 

1 

^ 

m, 

11 

^h 

'! , 

m 

'A 

•ij 

\    \ 

..*< 

A.i- 

S14 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


r      .:i::i 


two,  as  if  wounded,  and  then  walked  off  with  great  gravity,  seem- 
ing to  commune  together,  and  every  now  and  then  turning  to 
take  another  look  at  the  hunters.  It  was  well  for  the  latter  that 
the  bears  were  but  half  grown,  and  had  not  yet  acquired  the 
ferocity  of  their  kind. 

The  buffalo  were  somewhat  startled  at  the  report  of  the  fire- 
arms ;  but  the  hunters  succeeded  in  killing  a  couple  of  fine  cows, 
and,  having  secured  the  best  of  the  meat,  continued  forward  un- 
til some  time  after  dark,  when,  encamping  in  a  large  thicket  of 
willows,  they  made  a  great  fire,  roasted  buffalo  beef  enough  for 
half  a  score,  disposed  of  the  whole  of  it  with  keen  relish  and 
high  glee,  and  then  "  turned  in"  for  the  night  and  slept  soundly, 
like  weary  and  well  fed  hunters. 

At  daylight  they  were  in  the  saddle  again,  and  skirted  along 
the  river,  passing  through  fres'.i  grassy  meadows,  and  a  succession 
of  beautiful  groves  of  willows  and  cotton-wood.  Towards  even- 
ing. Captain  Bonneville  observed  a  smoke  at  a  distance  rising 
from  among  hills,  directly  in  the  route  he  was  pursuing.  Appre- 
hensive of  some  hostile  band,  he  concealed  the  horses  in  a  thicket, 
and,  accompanied  by  one  of  his  men,  crawled  cautiously  up  a 
height,  from  which  he  could  overlook  the  scene  of  danger.  Here, 
with  a  spy-glass,  he  reconnoitred  the  surrounding  country,  but 
not  a  lodge  nor  fire,  not  a  man,  horse,  nor  dog,  was  to  be  discov- 
ered ;  in  short,  the  smoke  which  had  caused  such  alarm  proved 
to  be  the  vapor  from  several  warm,  or  rather  hot  springs  of  con- 
siderable magnitude,  pouring  forth  streams  in  every  direction 
over  a  bottom  of  white  clay.  One  of  the  springs  was  about 
twenty-five  yards  in  diameter,  and  so  deep,  that  the  water  was  of 
a  bright  green  color. 

They  were  now  advancing  diagonally  upon  the  chain  of  Wind 


P 


ASCENT  OF  TflR   MOUNTAINS. 


•1» 


River  Mountains,  which  lay  between  thorn  and  Green  River 
valley.  To  coast  round  their  southern  points  would  be  a  wide 
circuit ;  whereas,  could  they  force  their  way  through  them,  they 
might  proceed  in  a  straight  line.  The  mountains  were  lofty,  with 
snowy  peaks  and  cragged  sides ;  it  was  hoped,  however,  that 
some  practicable  defile  might  be  found.  They  attempted,  accord* 
ingly,  to  penetrate  the  mountains  by  following  up  one  of  the 
branches  of  the  Popo  Agle,  but  soon  found  themselves  in  the 
midst  of  stupendous  crags  and  precipices,  that  barred  all  pro- 
gress. Retracing  their  steps,  and  falling  back  upon  the  river, 
they  consulted  where  to  make  another  attempt.  They  were  too 
close  beneath  the  mountains  to  scan  them  generally,  but  they 
now  recollected  having  noticed,  from  the  plain,  a  beautiful  slope, 
rising,  at  an  angle  of  about  thirty  degrees,  and  apparently  with- 
out any  break,  until  it  reached  the  snowy  region.  Seeking  this 
gentle  acclivity,  they  began  to  ascend  it  with  alacrity,  trusting  to 
find  at  the  top  one  of  those  elevated  plains  which  prevail  among 
the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  slope  was  covered  with  coarse 
gravel,  interspersed  with  plates  of  freestone.  They  attained  the 
summit  with  some  toil,  but  found,  instead  of  a  level,  or  rather 
undulating  plain,  that  they  were  on  the  brink  of  a  deep  and  pre- 
cipitous ravine,  from  the  bottom  of  which,  rose  a  second  slope, 
similar  to  the  one  they  had  just  ascended.  Down  into  this  pro- 
found ravine  they  made  their  way  by  a  rugged  path,  or  rather 
fissure  of  the  rocks,  and  then  labored  up  the  second  slope.  They 
gained  the  summit  only  to  find  themselves  on  another  ravine,  and 
now  perceived  that  this  vast  mountain,  which  had  presented  such 
a  sloping  and  even  side  to  the  distant  beholder  on  the  plain,  was 
shagged  by  frightful  precipices,  and  seamed  with  longitudinal 
chasms,  deep  and  dangerous. 


916 


BONNKVIMiE'S  ADVIONTrUK.S. 


In  ono  of  these  wild  dclls  they  passed  the  night,  and  slept 
soundly  and  sweetly  after  their  fatigues.  Two  days  more  of 
arduous  climbing  and  scrambling  only  served  to  admit  them  into 
the  heart  of  this  mountainous  and  awful  solitude  ;  where  difficul- 
ties increased  as  thoy  proceeded.  Hometimes  they  scrambled 
from  rock  to  rock,  up  the  bed  of  some  mountain  stream,  dashing 
its  bright  way  down  to  the  plains  ;  sometimes  they  availed  them- 
selves of  the  paths  made  by  the  deer  and  the  mountain  sheep, 
which,  however,  often  took  them  to  the  brink  of  fearful  precipices, 
or  led  to  rugged  defiles,  impassable  for  their  horses.  At  one 
place,  they  were  obliged  to  slide  their  horses  down  the  face  of  a 
rock,  in  which  attempt  some  of  the  poor  animals  lost  their  foot- 
ing, rolled  to  the  bottom,  and  came  near  being  dashed  to  pieces. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  second  day,  the  travellers  attained  one 
of  the  elevated  valleys  locked  up  in  this  singular  bed  of  moun- 
tains. Here  were  two  bright  and  beautiful  little  lakes,  set  like 
mirrors  in  the  midst  of  stern  and  rocky  heights,  and  surrounded 
by  grassy  meadows,  inexpressibly  refreshing  to  the  eye.  These 
probably  were  among  the  sources  of  those  mighty  streams  which 
take  their  rise  among  these  mountains,  and  wander  hundreds  of 
miles  through  the  plains. 

In  the  green  pastures  bordering  upon  these  lakes,  the  travel- 
lers halted  to  repose,  and  to  give  their  weary  horses  time  to  crop 
the  sweet  and  tender  herbage.  They  had  now  ascended  to  a 
great  height  above  the  level  of  the  plains,  y^t  they  beheld  huge 
crags  of  granite  piled  one  upon  another,  and  beetling  like  battle- 
ments far  above  them.  While  two  of  the  men  remained  in  the 
camp  with  the  horses,  Captain  Bonneville,  accompanied  by  the 
other  men,  set  out  to  climb  a  neighboring  height,  hoping  to  gain 
a  commanding   prospect,  and   discern   some  practicable  route 


THE  CREST  OF  THE  WORLD. 


•IT 


through  this  stupendous  labyrinth.  After  much  toil,  ho  reached 
the  summit  of  a  lofty  cliflF,  but  it  was  only  to  behold  gigantic 
peaks  rising  all  around,  and  towering  far  into  the  snowy  regions 
of  the  atmosphere.  Selecting  one  which  appeared  to  be  the 
highest,  he  crossed  a  narrow  intervening  valley,  and  began  to 
scale  it.  He  soon  found  that  he  had  undertaken  a  tremendous 
task ;  but  the  pride  of  man  is  never  more  obstinate  than  when 
climbing  mountains.  The  ascent  was  so  steep  and  rugged  that 
he  and  his  companions  were  frequently  obliged  to  clamber  on 
hands  and  knees,  with  their  guns  slung  upon  their  backs.  Fre- 
quently, exhausted  with  fatigue,  and  dripping  with  perspiration, 
they  threw  themselves  upon  the  snow,  and  took  handfuls  of  it  to 
allay  their  parching  thirst.  At  one  place,  they  even  stripped  oflF 
their  coats  and  hung  them  upon  the  bushes,  and  thus  lightly 
clad,  proceeded  to  scramble  over  these  eternal  snows.  As  they 
ascended  still  higher,  there  were  cool  breezes  that  refreshed  and 
braced  them,  and  springing  with  new  ardor  to  their  task,  they  at 
length  attained  the  summit. 

Here  a  scene  burst  upon  the  view  of  Captain  Bonneville,  that 
for  a  time  astonished  and  overwhelmed  him  with  its  immensity. 
He  stood,  in  fact,  upon  that  dividing  ridge  which  Indians  regard 
as  the  crest  of  the  world  ;  and  on  each  side  of  which,  the  land- 
scape may  be  said  to  decline  to  the  two  cardinal  oceans  of  the 
globe.  Whichever  way  he  turned  his  eye,  it  was  confounded  by 
the  vastness  and  variety  of  objects.  Beneath  him,  the  Rocky 
Mountains  seemed  to  open  all  their  secret  recesses :  deep,  solemn 
valleys  ;  treasure'',  lakes  ;  dreary  passes  ;  rugged  defiles,  and  foam- 
ing torrents ;  while  beyond  their  savage  precincts,  the  eye  was 
lost  in  an  almost  immeasurable  landscape ;  stretching  on  every 
side  into  dim  and  hazy  distance,  like  the  expanse  of  a  summer's 

10 


S18 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


sea.  Whichever  way  he  looked,  he  beheld  vast  plains  glimmer- 
ing with  reflected  sunshine ;  mighty  streams  wandering  on  their 
shining  course  toward  either  ocean,  and  snowy  mountains,  chain 
beyond  chain,  and  peak  beyond  peak,  till  they  melted  like  clouds 
into  the  horizon.  For  a  time,  the  Indian  fable  seemed  realized : 
he  had  attained  that  height  from  which  the  Blackfoot  warrior, 
after  death,  first  catches  a  view  of  the  land  of  souls?,  and  beholds 
the  happy  hunting  grounds  spread  out  below  him,  brightening 
with  the  abodes  of  the  free  and  generous  spirits.  The  captain 
stood  for  a  long  wliile  gazing  upon  this  scene,  lost  in  a  crowd  of 
vague  and  indefinite  ideas  and  sensations.  A  long-drawn  inspi- 
ration at  length  relieved  him  from  this  enthralment  of  the  mind, 
and  he  began  to  analyze  the  parts  of  this  vast  panorama.  A 
simple  enumeration  of  a  few  of  its  features,  may  give  some  idea 
of  its  collective  grandeur  and  magnificence. 

The  peak  on  which  the  captain  had  taken  his  stand,  com- 
manded the  whole  Wind  River  chain ;  which,  in  fact,  may  rather 
be  considered  one  immense  mountain,  broken  into  snowy  peaks 
and  lateral  spurs,  and  seamed  with  narrow  valleys.  Some  of 
these  valleys  glittered  with  silver  lakes  and  gushing  streams; 
the  fountain  heads,  as  it  were,  of  the  mighty  tributaries  to  the 
Atlantic  and  Pacific  Oceans.  Beyond  the  snowy  peaks,  to  the 
south,  and  far,  far  below  the  mountain  range,  the  gentle  river, 
called  the  Sweet  Water,  was  seen  pursuing  its  tranquil  way 
through  the  rugged  regions  of  the  Black  Hills.  In  the  east,  the 
head  waters  of  Wind  River  wandered  through  a  plain,  until, 
mingling  in  one  powerful  current,  they  forced  their  way  through 
t^te  range  of  Horn  Mountains,  and  were  lost  to  view.  To  the 
north,  were  caught  glimpses  of  the  upper  streams  of  the  Yellow- 
stone, that  great  tributary  of  the  Missouri.     In  another  direction 


HEIGHT  OF  THE   ROCKY  MOUNTAINS. 


219 


were  to  be  seen  some  of  the  sources  of  the  Oregon,  or  Columbia, 
flowing  to  the  northwest,  past  those  towering  landmarks  the 
Three  Tetons,  and  pouring  down  into  the  great  lava  plain ; 
while,  almost  at  the  captain's  feet,  the  Green  River,  or  Colorado 
of  the  West,  set  forth  on  its  wandering  pilgrimage  to  the  Gulf  of 
California ;  at  first  a  mere  mountain  torrent,  dashing  northward 
over  crag  and  precipice,  in  a  succession  of  cascades,  and  tumbling 
into  the  plain,  where,  expanding  into  an  ample  river,  it  circled 
away  to  the  south,  and  after  alternately  shining  out  and  disap- 
pearing in  the  mazes  of  the  vast  landscape,  was  finally  lost  in  a 
horizon  of  mountains.  The  day  was  calm  and  cloudless,  and  the 
atmosphere  so  pure  that  objects  were  discernible  at  an  astonish- 
ing distance.  The  whole  of  this  immense  area  was  inclosed  by 
an  outer  range  of  shadowy  peaks,  some  of  them  faintly  marked  on 
the  horizon,  which  seemed  to  wall  it  in  from  the  rest  of  the  earth. 

It  is  to  be  regretted  that  Captain  Bonneville  had  no  instru- 
ments with  him  with  which  to  ascertain  the  altitude  of  this  peak. 
He  gives  it  as  his  opinion,  that  it  is  the  loftiest  point  of  the 
North  American  continent ;  but  of  this  we  have  no  satisfactory 
proof  It  is  certain  that  the  Rocky  Mountains  are  of  an  altitude 
vastly  superior  to  what  was  formerly  supposed.  We  rather  in- 
cline to  the  opinion  that  the  highest  peak  is  further  to  the  north- 
ward, and  is  the  same  measured  by  Mr.  Thompson,  surveyor  to 
the  Northwest  Company ;  who,  by  the  joint  means  of  the  barome- 
ter and  trigonometric  measurement,  ascertained  it  to  be  twenty- 
five  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea ;  an  elevation  only 
inferior  to  that  of  the  Himalayas.* 

For  a  long  time,  Captain  Bonneville  remained  gazing  around 


*  See  the  letter  of  Professor  Renwick,  in  the  Appendix  to  Astoria. 


220 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


him  with  wonder  and  enthusiasm  ;  at  length  the  chill  and  wintry 
winds,  whirling  about  the  snow-clad  height,  admonished  him  to 
descend.  He  soon  regained  the  spot  where  he  and  his  compan- 
ions had  thrown  off  their  coats,  which  were  now  gladly  resumed, 
and,  retracing  their  course  down  the  peak,  they  safely  rejoined 
their  companions  on  the  border  of  the  lake. 

Notwithstanding  the  savage  and  almost  inaccessible  nature 
of  these  mountains,  they  have  their  inhabitants.  As  one  of  the 
party  was  out  hunting,  he  came  upon  the  solitary  track  of  a  man, 
in  a  lonely  valley.  Following  it  up,  he  reached  the  brow  of  a 
cliff,  whence  he  beheld  three  savages  running  across  the  valley 
below  him.  He  fired  his  gun  to  call  their  attention,  hoping  to 
induce  them  to  turn  back.  They  only  fled  the  faster,  and  disap- 
peared among  the  rocks.  The  hunter  returned  and  reported 
what  he  had  seen.  Captain  Bonneville  at  once  concluded  that 
these  belonged  to  a  kind  of  hermit  race,  scanty  in  number,  that 
inhabit  the  highest  and  most  inaccessible  fastnesses.  They  speak 
the  Shoshonie  language,  and  probably  are  offsets  from  that  tribe, 
though  they  have  peculiarities  of  their  own,  which  distinguish 
them  from  all  other  Indians.  They  are  miserably  poor ;  own  no 
horses,  and  are  destitute  of  every  convenience  to  be  derived  from 
an  intercourse  with  the  whites.  Their  weapons  are  bows  and 
stone-pointed  arrows,  with  which  they  hunt  the  deer,  the  elk,  and 
the  mountain  sheep.  They  are  to  be  found  scattered  about  the 
countries  of  the  Shoshonie,  Flathead,  Crow,  and  Blackfeet  tribes ; 
but  their  residences  are  always  in  lonely  places,  and  the  clefts  of 
the  rocks. 

Their  footsteps  are  often  seen  by  the  trapperw  in  the  high  and 
solitary  valleys  among  the  mountains,  and  the  smokes  of  their 
fires  descried  among  the  precipices,  but  they  themselves  are 


WILD  MEN   OF  THE   MOUNTAINS. 


S21 


rarely  met  with,  and  still  more  rarely  brought  to  a  parley,  so 
great  is  their  shyness,  and  their  dread  of  strangers. 

As  their  poverty  offers  no  temptation  to  the  marauder,  and  as 
they  are  inolFensive  in  their  habits,  they  are  never  the  objects  of 
warfare :  should  one  of  them,  however,  fall  into  the  hands  of  a 
war  party,  he  is  sure  to  be  made  a  sacrifice,  for  the  sake  of  that 
savage  trophy,  a  scalp,  and  that  barbarous  ceremony,  a  scalp 
dance.  These  forlorn  beings,  forming  a  mere  link  between  human 
nature  and  the  brute,  have  been  looked  down  upon  with  pity  and 
contempt  by  the  Creole  trappers,  who  have  given  them  the  appel- 
lation of  •'  les  dignes  de  pitie,"  or  "  the  objects  of  pity."  They 
appear  more  worthy  to  be  called  the  wild  men  of  the  mountains. 


■MlMi 


S23 


,  ^ 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

A  retrograde  move. — Channel  of  a  mountain  torrent. — Alpine  scenery. — Cas- 
cades.— Beaver  valleys. — Beavers  at  work — their  architecture — their  modes 
of  felling  trees. — Mode  of  trapping  beaver. — Contests  of  skill. — A  beaver 
"  up  to  trap." — Arrival  at  the  Green  River  caches. 


The  view  from  the  snowj  peak  of  the  Wind  River  Mountain, 
while  it  had  excited  Captain  Bonneville's  enthusiasm,  had  satis- 
fied him  that  it  would  be  useless  to  force  a  passage  westward, 
through  multiplying  barriers  of  cliffs  and  precipices.  Turning 
his  face  eastward,  therefore,  he  endeavored  to  regain  the  plains, 
intending  to  make  the  circuit  round  the  southern  point  of  the 
mountain.  To  descend,  and  to  extricate  himself  from  the  heart 
of  this  rock-piled  wilderness,  was  almost  as  difficult  as  to  pene- 
trate it.  Taking  his  course  down  the  ravine  of  a  tumbling 
stream,  the  commencement  of  some  future  river,  he  descended 
from  rock  to  rock,  and  shelf  to  shelf,  between  stupendous  cliffs 
and  beetling  crags,  that  sprang  up  to  the  sky.  Often  he  had  to 
cross  and  recross  the  rushing  torrent,  as  it  wound  foaming  and 
roaring  down  its  broken  channel,  or  was  walled  by  perpendicular 
precipices  ;  and  imminent  was  the  hazard  of  breaking  the  legs  of 
the  hor&es  in  the  clefts  and  fissures  of  slippery  rocks.  The  whole 
scenery  of  this  deep  ravine  was  of  Alpine  wildness  and  sublimity. 
Sometimes  the  travellers  passed  beneath  cascades  which  pitched 


I^r. 


I  ! 


THE  INDUSTRIOUS  BEAVERS. 


993 


from  such  lofty  heights,  that  the  water  fell  into  the  stream  like 
heavy  rain.  In  other  places,  torrents  came  tumbling  from  crag 
to  crag,  dashing  into  foam  and  spray,  and  making  tremendous 
din  and  uproar. 

On  the  second  day  of  their  descent,  the  travellers,  having  got 
beyond  the  steepest  pitch  of  the  mountains,  came  to  where  the 
deep  and  rugged  ravine  began  occasionally  to  expand  into  small 
levels  or  valleys,  and  the  stream  to  assume  for  short  intervals  a 
more  peaceful  character.  Here,  not  merely  the  river  itself,  but 
every  rivulet  flowing  into  it,  was  dammed  up  by  communities  of 
industrious  beavers,  eo  as  to  inundate  the  neighborhood,  and 
make  continual  swamps. 

During  a  mid-day  halt  in  one  of  these  beaver  valleys, 
Captain  Bonneville  left  his  companions,  and  strolled  down  the 
course  of  the  stream  to  reconnoitre.  He  had  not  proceeded  far, 
when  he  came  to  a  beaver  pond,  and  caught  a  glimpse  of  one  of 
its  painstaking  inhabitants  busily  at  work  .upon  the  dam.  The 
curiosity  of  the  captain  was  aroused,  to  behold  the  mode  of  ope- 
rating of  this  far-famed  architect ;  he  moved  forward,  therefore, 
with  the  utmost  caution,  parting  the  branches  of  the  water  wil- 
lows without  making  any  noise,  until  having  attained  a  position 
commanding  a  view  of  the  whole  pond,  he  stretched  himself  flat  on 
the  ground,  and  watched  the  solitary  workman.  In  a  little  while, 
three  others  appeared  at  the  head  of  the  dam,  bringing  sticks  and 
bushes.  With  these  they  proceeded  directly  to  the  barrier,  which 
Captain  Bonneville  perceived  was  in  need  of  repair.  Having 
deposited  their  loads  upon  the  broken  part,  they  dived  into  the 
water,  and  shortly  reappeared  at  the  surface.  Each  now  brought 
a  quantity  of  mud,  with  which  lie  would  plaster  the  sticks  and 
bushes  just  deposited.     This  kind  of  masonry  was  continued  for 


934 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES, 


some  time,  repeated  supplies  of  wood  and  mud  being  brought, 
and  treated  in  the  same  manner.  This  done,  the  industrious 
beavers  indulged  in  a  little  recreation,  chasing  each  other  about 
the  pond,  dodging  and  whisking  about  on  the  surface,  or  diving 
to  the  bottom  ;  and  in  their  frolic,  often  slapping  their  tails  on 
the  water  with  a  loud  clacking  sound.  While  they  were  thus 
amusing  themselves,  another  of  the  fraternity  made  his  appear- 
ance, and  looked  gravely  on  their  sports  for  some  time,  without 
oflFering  to  join  in  them.  He  then  climbed  the  bank  close  to  where 
the  captain  was  concealed,  and,  rearing  himself  on  his  hind  quar- 
ters, in  a  sitting  position,  put  his  fore  paws  against  a  young  pine 
tree,  and  began  to  cut  the  bark  with  his  teeth.  At  times  he 
would  tear  off  a  small  piece,  and  holding  it  between  liis  paws, 
and  retaining  his  sedentary  position,  would  feed  himself  with  it, 
after  the  fashion  of  a  monkey.  The  object  of  the  beaver,  how- 
ever, was  evidently  to  cut  down  the  tree ;  and  he  was  proceeding 
with  his  work,  when  he  was  alarmed  by  the  approach  of  Captain 
Bonneville's  men,  who,  feeling  anxious  at  the  protracted  absence 
of  their  leader,  were  coming  in  search  of  him.  At  the  sound  of 
their  voices,  all  the  beavers,  busy  as  well  as  idle,  dived  at  once 
beneath  the  surface,  and  were  no  more  to  be  seen.  Captain 
Bonneville  regretted  this  interruption.  He  had  heard  much  of 
the  sagacity  of  the  beaver  in  cutting  down  trees,  in  which,  it  is 
said,  they  manage  to  make  them  fall  into  the  water,  and  in  such 
a  position  and  direction  as  may  be  most  favorable  for  conveyance 
to  the  desired  point.  In  the  present  instance,  the  tree  was  a  tall 
straight  pine,  and  as  it  grew  perpendicularly,  and  there  was  not 
a  breath  of  air  stirring,  the  beaver  could  have  felled  it  in  any 
direction  he  pleased,  if  really  capable  of  exercising  a  discre- 
tion in  the  matter.     He  was   evidently  engaged  in  "belting" 


■^        r 


■*> 


SAGACITY   OF  THE   BEAVER. 


9W 


the  tree,  and  his  first  incision  had  been  on  the  side  nearest  to 
the  water. 

Captain  Bonneville,  however,  discredits,  on  the  whole,  the 
alleged  sagacity  of  the  beaver  in  this  particular,  and  thinks  the 
animal  has  no  other  aim  than  to  get  the  tree  down,  without  any 
of  the  subtle  calculation  as  to  its  mode  or  direction  of  falling. 
This  attribute,  he  thinks,  has  been  ascribed  to  them  from  the 
circumstance,  that  most  trees  growing  near  water-courses,  either 
lean  bodily  towards  the  stream,  or  stretch  their  largest  limbs  in 
that  direction,  to  benefit  by  the  space,  the  light,  and  the  air  to  be 
found  there.  The  beaver,  of  course,  attacks  those  trees  which 
are  nearest  at  hand,  and  on  the  banks  of  the  stream  or  pond. 
He  makes  incisions  round  them,  or,  in  technical  phrase,  belts 
them  with  his  teeth,  and  when  they  fall,  they  naturally  take  the 
direction  in  which  their  trunks  or  branches  preponderate. 

"  I  have  often,"  says  Captain  Bonneville,  "  seen  trees  met.- 
suring  eighteen  inches  in  diameter,  at  the  places  where  they  had 
been  cut  through  by  the  beaver,  but  they  lay  in  all  directions, 
and  often  very  inconveniently  for  the  after  purposes  of  the  ani- 
mal. In  fact,  so  little  ingenuity  do  they  at  times  display  in  this 
particular,  that  at  one  of  our  camps  on  Snake  River,  a  beaver 
Avas  found  with  his  head  wedged  into  the  cut  which  he  had  made, 
the  tree  having  fallen  upon  him  and  held  him  prisoner  until  he 
died." 

Grreat  choice,  accorc^mg  to  the  captain,  is  certainly  displayed 
by  the  beaver  in  selecting  the  wood  which  is  to  furnish  bark  for 
winter  provision.  The  whole  beaver  household,  old  and  young, 
set  out  upon  this  business,  and  will  often  make  long  journeys 
before  they  are  suited.  Sometimes  they  cut  down  trees  of  the 
largest  size,  and  then  cull  the  branches,  the  bark  of  which  is 

10* 


\ 


926 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


most  to  their  taste.  These  they  cut  into  lengths  of  about  three 
feet,  convey  them  to  the  water,  and  float  them  to  their  lodges, 
where  they  are  stored  away  for  winter.  They  are  studious  of 
cleanliness  and  comfort  in  their  lodges,  and  after  their  repasts, 
will  carry  out  the  sticks  from  which  they  have  eaten  the  bark, 
and  throw  them  into  the  current  beyond  the  barrier.  They  are 
jealous,  too,  of  their  territories,  and  extremely  pugnacious,  never 
permitting  a  strange  beaver  to  enter  their  premises,  and  often 
fighting  with  such  virulence  as  almost  to  tear  each  other  to  pieces. 
In  the  spring,  which  is  the  breeding  season,  the  male  leaves  the 
female  at  home,  and  sets  ofl"  on  a  tour  of  pleasure,  rambling  often 
to  a  great  distance,  recreating  himself  in  every  clear  and  quiet 
expanse  of  water  on  his  way,  and  climbing  the  banks  occasionally 
to  feast  upon  the  tender  sprouts  of  the  young  willows.  As  sum- 
mer advances,  he  gives  up  his  bachelor  rambles,  and  bethinking 
himself  of  housekeeping  duties,  returns  home  to  his  mute  and 
his  new  progeny,  and  marshals  them  all  for  the  foraging  expedi- 
tion in  quest  of  winter  provisions. 

After  having  shown  the  public  spirit  of  this  praiseworthy 
little  animal  as  a  member  of  a  community,  and  his  amiable  and 
exemplary  conduct  as  the  father  of  a  family,  we  grieve  to  re- 
cord the  perils  with  which  he  is  environed,  and  the  snares  set 
for  him  and  his  painstaking  household. 

Practice,  says  Captain  Bonneville,  has  given  such  a  quickness 
of  eye  to  the  experienced  trapper  in  all  that  relates  to  his  pur- 
suit, that  he  can  detect  the  slightest  sign  of  beaver,  however  wild ; 
and  although  the  lodge  may  be  concealed  by  close  thickets  and 
overhanging  willows,  he  can  generally,  at  a  single  glance,  make 
an  accurate  guess  at  the  number  of  its  inmates.  He  now  goes 
to  work  to  set  his  trap  ;  planting  it  upon  the  shore,  in  some 


MODE  OF  TRAPPING  BEAVER. 


227 


chosen  place,  two  or  tliree  inches  below  the  surface  of  the  water, 
and  secures  it  by  a  chain  to  a  pole  set  deep  in  the  mud.  A  small 
twig  is  then  stripped  of  its  bark,  and  one  end  is  dipped  in  the 
"  medicine,"  as  the  trappers  term  the  peculiar  bait  which  they 
employ.  This  end  of  the  stick  rises  about  four  inches  above  the 
surface  of  the  water,  the  other  end  is  planted  between  the  jaws 
of  the  trap.  The  beaver,  possessing  an  acute  sense  of  smell,  is 
soon  attracted  by  the  odor  of  the  bait.  As  he  raises  his  nose 
towards  it,  his  foot  is  caught  in  the  trap.  In  his  fright  he  throws 
a  somerset  into  the  deep  water.  The  trap,  being  fastened  to  the 
pole,  resists  all  his  efforts  to  drag  it  to  the  shore ;  the  chain  by 
which  it  is  listened  defies  his  teeth  ;  he  struggles  for  a  time,  and 
at  length  sinks  to  the  bottom  and  is  drowned. 

Upon  rocky  bottoms,  where  it  is  not  possible  to  plant  the 
pole,  it  is  thrown  into  the  stream.  The  beaver,  when  entrapped, 
often  gets  fastened  by  the  chain  to  sunken  logs  or  floating  tim- 
ber ;  if  he  gets  to  shore,  he  is  entangled  in  the  thickets  of  brook 
willows.  In  such  cases,  however,  it  costs  the  trapper  diligent 
search,  and  sometimes  a  bout  at  swimming,  before  he  finds  his 
game. 

Occasionally  it  happens  that  several  members  of  a  beaver 
family  are  trapped  in  succession.  The  survivors  then  become 
extremely  shy,  and  can  scarcely  be  '•  brought  to  medicine,"  to 
use  the  trapper's  phrase  for  '•  taking  the  bait."  In  such  case, 
the  trapper  gives  up  the  use  of  the  bait,  and  conceals  his  traps 
in  the  usual  paths  and  crossing-places  of  the  household.  The 
beaver  now  being  completely  "  up  to  trap,"  approaches  them 
cautiously,  and  springs  them  ingeniously  with  a  stick.  At  other 
times,  he  turns  the  traps  bottom  upwards,  by  the  same  means, 
and  occasionally  even  drags  them  to  the  barrier  and  conceals 


— Wi 


928 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


them  in  the  mud.  The  trapper  now  gives  up  the  contest  of  in- 
genuity, and  shouldering  his  traps,  marches  off,  admitting  that 
he  is  not  yet  "  up  to  beaver." 

On  the  day  following  Captain  Bonneville's  supervision  of  the 
industrious  and  frolicsome  community  of  beavers,  of  which  ho 
has  given  so  edifying  an  account,  he  succeeded  in  extricating 
himself  from  the  Wind  River  Mountains,  and  regaining  the  plain 
to  the  eastward,  made  a  great  bend  to  the  south,  so  as  to  go  round 
the  bases  of  the  mountains,  and  arrived  without  further  incident 
of  importance,  at  the  old  place  of  rendezvous  in  Green  River 
valley,  on  the  1 7th  of  September. 

He  found  the  caches,  in  which  he  had  deposited  his  super- 
fluous goods  and  equipments,  all  safe,  and  having  opened  and 
taken  from  them  the  necessary  supplies,  he  closed  them  again ; 
taking  care  to  obliterate  all  traces  that  might  betray  them  to  the 
keen  eyes  of  Indian  marauders. 


DANGEROUS   NEIGHBORHOOD. 


239 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 


1*-, 
'•i^- 


Route  towards  Wind  River. — Dangerous  neighborhood. — Alarms  and  precau- 
tions.— A  sham  encampment. — Apparition  of  an  Indian  spy. — Midnight 
move. — A  mountain  defile. — The  Wind  River  valley. — Tracking  a  party. 
— Deserted  camps. — Symptoms  of  Crows. — Meeting  of  comrades. — A 
trapper  entrapped. — Crow  pleasantry. — Crow  spies. — A  decampment. — 
Return  to  Green  River  valley — Meeting  with  Fitzpatrick's  party — their 
adventures  among  the  Crows. — Orthodox  Crows. 

On  the  18th  of  September,  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  three 
companions  set  out,  bright  and  early,  to  rejoin  the  main  party, 
from  which  they  had  parted  on  Wind  River.  Their  route  lay  up 
the  Green  River  valley,  with  that  stream  on  their  right  hand,  and 
beyond  it,  the  range  of  Wind  River  Mountains.  At  the  head  of 
the  valley,  they  were  to  pass  through  a  defile  which  would  bring 
them  out  beyond  the  northern  end  of  these  mountains,  to  the 
head  of  Wind  River ;  where  they  expected  to  meet  the  main 
party,  according  to  arrangement. 

We  have  already  adverted  to  the  dangerous  nature  of  this 
neighborhood,  infested  by  roving  bands  of  Crows  and  Blackfeet ; 
to  whom  the  numerous  defiles  and  passes  of  the  country  afford 
capital  places  for  ambush  and  surprise.  The  travellers,  there- 
fore, kept  a  vigilant  eye  upon  every  thing  that  might  give  intima- 
tion of  lurking  danger. 

About  two  hours  after  mid-day,  as  they  reached  the  summit  of 


'.*. 


230 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


a  hill,  they  discovered  buffalo  on  the  plain  below,  running  in 
every  direction.  One  of  the  men,  too,  fancied  ho  heard  the  re- 
port of  a  gun.  It  was  concluded,  therefore,  that  there  was  some 
party  of  Indians  below,  hunting  the  buffalo. 

The  horses  were  innncdiately  coneoaled  in  a  narrow  ravine  ; 
and  the  captain,  mounting  an  eminence,  but  concealing  himself 
from  view,  reconnoitred  the  whole  neighborhood  with  a  telescope. 
Not  an  Indian  was  to  be  seen ;  so,  after  halting  about  an  hour, 
he  resumed  his  journey.  Convinced,  however,  that  he  was  in  a 
dangerous  neighborhood,  he  advanced  with  the  utmost  caution ; 
winding  his  way  through  hollows  and  ravines,  and  avoiding,  as 
much  as  possible,  any  open  tract,  or  rising  ground,  that  might 
betray  his  little  party  to  the  wiitchful  eye  of  an  Indian  scout. 

Arriving,  at  length,  at  the  edge  of  the  open  meadow-land  bor- 
dering on  the  river,  he  again  observed  the  buffalo,  as  far  as  he 
could  see,  scampering  in  great  alarm.  Once  more  concealing  the 
hor.scs,  he  and  his  companions  remained  for  a  long  time  watching 
the  various  groups  of  the  animals,  as  each  caught  the  panic  and 
started  off;  but  they  sought  in  vain  to  discover  the  cause. 

They  were  now  about  to  enter  the  mountain  defile,  at  the 
head  of  Green  River  valley,  where  they  might  be  waylaid  and 
attacked ;  they,  tlierefore,  arranged  the  packs  on  their  horses,  in 
the  manner  most  secure  and  convenient  for  sudden  flight,  should 
such  be  necessary.  This  done,  they  again  set  forward,  keeping 
the  most  anxious  look-out  in  every  direction. 

It  was  now  drawing  towards  evening;  but  they  could  not 
think  of  encamping  for  the  night,  in  a  place  so  full  of  danger. 
Captain  Bonneville,  therefore,  determined  to  halt  about  sunset, 
kindle  a  fire,  as  if  for  encampment,  cook  and  eat  supper ;  but,  as 
soon  as  it  was  suflSciently  dark,  to  make  a  rapid  move  for  the 


A  SHAM    ENCAMPMENT. 


881 


summit  of  the  mountain,  and  seek  some  secluded  spot  for  their 
night's  lodgings. 

Accordingly,  as  the  sun  went  down,  the  little  party  came  to  a 
halt,  made  a  large  fire,  spitted  their  buffalo  meat  on  wooden  sticks, 
and,  when  sufficiently  roasted,  planted  the  savory  viands  before 
them ;  cutting  off  huge  slices  with  their  hunting  knives,  and  sup* 
ping  with  a  hunter's  appetite.  The  light  of  their  fire  would  not 
fail,  as  they  knew,  to  attract  the  attention  of  any  Indian  horde 
in  the  neighborhood  ;  but  they  trusted  to  be  off  and  away,  before 
any  prowlers  could  reach  the  place.  While  they  were  supping 
thus  hastily,  however,  one  of  their  party  suddenly  started  up, 
and  shouted  "  Indians  !"  All  were  instantly  on  their  feet,  with 
their  rifles  in  their  hands ;  but  could  see  no  enemy.  The  man, 
however,  declared  that  he  had  seen  an  Indian  advancing,  cau- 
tiously, along  the  trail  which  they  had  made  in  coming  to  the  en- 
campment ;  who,  the  moment  he  was  perceived,  had  thrown  him- 
self on  the  ground,  and  disappeared.  He  urged  Captain  Bonne- 
ville instantly  to  decamp.  The  captain,  however,  took  the  mat- 
ter more  coolly.  The  single  fact,  that  the  Indian  had  endeavored 
to  hide  himself,  convinced  him  that  he  was  not  one  of  a  party, 
on  the  advance  to  make  an  attack.  He  was,  probably,  some  scout, 
who  had  followed  up  their  trail,  until  he  came  in  sight  of  their 
fire.  He  would,  in  such  case,  return,  and  report  what  he  had 
seen  to  his  companions.  These,  supposing  the  white  men  had 
encamped  for  the  night,  would  keep  aloof  until  very  late,  when 
all  should  be  asleep.  They  would,  then,  according  to  Indian 
tactics,  make  their  stealthy  approaches,  and  place  themselves  in 
ambush  around,  preparatory  to  their  attack,  at  the  usual  hour  of 
daylight. 

Such  was  Captain  Bonneville's  conclusion  :  in  consequence  of 


%^ 


333 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


which,  he  counselled  his  men  to  keep  perfectly  quiet,  and  act  as 
if  free  from  all  alarm,  until  the  proper  time  arrived  for  a  move. 
They,  accordingly,  continued  their  repast  with  pretended  appetite 
and  jollity ;  and  then  trimmed  and  replenished  their  fire,  as  if 
for  a  bivouac.  As  soon,  however,  as  the  night  had  completely  set 
in,  they  left  their  fire  blazing  ;  walked  quietly  among  the  willows, 
and  then  leaping  into  their  saddles,  made  off  as  noiselessly  as 
possible.  In  proportion  as  they  left  the  point  of  danger  beliind 
them,  they  relaxed  in  their  rigid  and  anxious  taciturnity,  and 
began  to  joke  at  the  expense  of  their  enemy ;  whom  they  pictured 
to  themselves  mousing  in  the  neighborhood  of  their  deserted  fire, 
waiting  for  the  proper  time  of  attack,  and  preparing  for  a  grand 
disappointment. 

About  midnight,  feeling  satisfied  that  they  had  gained  a  se- 
cure distance,  they  posted  one  of  their  number  to  keep  watch,  in 
case  the  enemy  should  follow  on  their  trail,  and  then,  turning 
abruptly  into  a  dense  and  matted  thicket  of  willows,  halted  for 
the  night  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  instead  of  making  for  the 
summit,  as  they  had  originally  intended. 

A  trapper  in  the  wilderness,  like  a  sailor  on  the  ocean,  snatches 
morsels  of  enjoyment  in  the  midst  of  trouble,  and  sleeps  soundly 
when  surrounded  by  danger.  The  little  party  now  made  their 
arrangements  for  sleep  with  perfect  calmness  :  they  did  not  ven- 
ture to  make  a  fire  and  cook,  it  is  true,  though  generally  done  by 
hunters  whenever  they  come  to  a  halt,  and  have  provisions.  They 
comforted  themselves,  however,  by  smoking  a  tranquil  pipe ;  and 
then  calling  in  the  watch,  and  turning  loose  the  horses,  stretched 
themselves  on  their  pallets,  agreed  that  whoever  should  first 
awake,  should  rouse  the  rest ;  and  in  a  little  while  were  all  in  as 
sound  sleep  as  though  in  the  midst  of  a  fortress. 


ARRIVAL  AT  WIND  RIVER. 


233 


A  little  before  day,  they  were  all  on  the  alert ;  it  was  the 
hour  for  Indian  maraud.  A  sentinel  was  immediately  detached, 
to  post  himself  at  a  little  distance  on  their  trail,  and  give  the 
alarm,  should  he  see  or  hear  an  enemy.  , 

With  the  first  blink  of  dawn,  the  rest  sought  the  horses ; 
brought  them  to  the  camp,  and  tied  them  up,  until  an  hour  after 
sunrise ;  when,  the  sentinel  having  reported  that  all  was  well, 
they  sprang  once  more  into  their  saddles,  and  pursued  the  most 
covert  and  secret  paths  up  the  mountain,  avoiding  the  direct 
route. 

At  noon,  they  halted  and  made  a  hasty  repast ;  and  then 
bent  iiiur  course  so  as  to  regain  the  route  from  which  they  had 
diverged.  They  were  now  made  sensible  of  the  danger  from 
which  they  had  j  ast  escaped.  There  were  tracks  of  Indians  who 
had  evidently  been  in  pursuit  of  them ;  but  had  recently  re- 
turned, baffled  in  their  search, 

Trusting  that  they  had  now  got  a  fair  start,  and  could  not  be 
overtaken  before  night,  even  in  case  the  Indians  should  renew 
the  chase,  they  pushed  briskly  forward,  and  did  not  encamp  until 
late ;  when  they  cautiously  concealed  themselves  in  a  secure  nook 
of  the  mountains. 

Without  any  further  alarm,  they  made  their  way  to  the  head 
waters  of  Wind  River,  and  reached  the  neighborhood  in  which 
they  had  appointed  the  rendezvous  with  their  companions.  It 
was  within  the  precincts  of  the  Crow  country ;  the  Wind  River 
valley  being  one  of  the  favorite  haunts  of  that  restless  tribe. 
After  much  searching.  Captain  Bonneville  came  upon  a  trail 
which  had  evidently  been  made  by  his  main  party.  It  was  so 
old,  however,  that  he  feared  his  people  might  have  left  the  neigh- 
borhood ;  driven  ofF,  perhaps,  by  some  of  those  war  parties  which 


S34 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


were  on  the  prowl.  He  continued  his  search  with  great  anxiety, 
and  no  little  fatigue  ;  for  his  horses  were  jaded,  and  almost  crip- 
pled, by  their  forced  marches  and  scramblings  through  rocky 
defiles. 

On  the  following  day,  about  noon,  Captain  Bonneville  came 
upon  a  deserted  camp  of  his  people,  from  which  they  had,  evi- 
dently, turned  back  ;  but  he  could  find  no  signs  to  indicate  why 
they  had  done  so  ;  whether  they  had  met  with  misfortune,  or 
molestation,  or  in  what  direction  they  had  gone.  He  was  now, 
more  than  ever,  perplexed. 

On  the  following  day,  he  resumed  his  march  with  increasing 
anxiety.  The  feet  of  his  horses  had  by  this  time  become  so  worn 
and  wounded  by  the  rocks,  that  he  had  to  make  moccasons  for 
them  of  buffalo  hide.  About  noon,  he  came  to  another  deserted 
camp  of  his  men  ;  but  soon  after  lost  their  trail.  After  great 
search,  he  once  more  found  it,  turning  in  a  southerly  direction 
along  the  eastern  bases  of  the  Wind  River  Mountains,  which 
towered  to  the  right.  He  now  pushed  forward  with  all  possible 
speed,  in  hopes  of  overtaking  the  party.  At  night,  he  slept  at 
another  of  their  camps,  from  which  they  had  but  recently  de- 
parted. When  the  day  dawned  sufficiently  to  distinguish  objects, 
he  perceived  the  danger  that  must  be  dogging  the  heels  of  his 
main  party.  All  about  the  camp  were  traces  of  Indians  who 
must  have  been  prowling  about  it  at  the  time  his  people  had 
passed  the  night  there  ;  and  who  must  still  be  hovering  about 
them.  Convinced,  now,  that  the  main  party  could  not  be  at  any 
great  distance,  he  mounted  a  scout  on  the  best  horse,  and  sent 
him  forward  to  overtake  them,  to  warn  them  of  their  danger,  and 
to  order  them  to  halt,  until  he  should  rejoin  them. 

In  the  afternoon,  to  his  great  joy,  he  met  the  scout  returning, 


I  ! 


THE  TRAPPER  ENTRAPPED. 


235 


with  six  comrades  from  the  main  party,  leading  fresh  horses  for 
his  accommodation  ;  and  on  the  following  day  (September  25th), 
all  hands  were  once  more  reunited,  after  a  separation  of  nearly 
three  weeks.  Their  meeting  was  hearty  and  joyous  ;  for  they 
had  both  experienced  dangers  and  perplexities. 

The  main  party,  in  pursuing  their  course  up  the  Wind  River 
valley,  had  been  dogged  the  whole  way  by  a  war  party  of  Crows. 
In  one  place,  they  had  been  fired  upon,  but  without  injury  ;  in 
another  place,  one  of  their  horses  bad  been  cut  loose,  and  carried 
off.  At  length,  they  were  so  closely  beset,  that  tlicy  were  obliged 
to  make  a  retrograde  move,  lest  they  should  be  surprised  and 
overcome.  This  .  '  the  movement  which  had  caused  such  per- 
plexity to  Capia.     "rmeville. 

The  whole  party  now  remained  encamped  for  two  or  three 
days,  to  give  repose  to  both  men  and  horses.  Some  of  the  trap- 
pers, however,  pursued  their  vocations  about  the  neighboring 
streams.  While  one  of  them  was  setting  his  traps,  he  heard  the 
tramp  of  horses,  and  looking  up,  beheld  a  party  of  Crow  braves 
moving  along  at  no  great  distance,  with  a  considerable  cavalcade. 
The  trapper  hastened  to  conceal  himself,  but  was  discerned  by 
the  quick  eye  of  the  savages.  With  whoops  and  yells,  they 
dragged  him  from  his  hiding-place,  flourished  over  his  head  their 
tomahawks  aid  scalping-knives,  and  for  a  time,  the  poor  trapper 
gave  himself  up  for  lost.  Fortunately,  the  Crows  were  in  a  jocose, 
rather  than  a  sanguinary  mood.  They  amused  themselves  heartily, 
for  a  while,  at  the  expense  of  his  terrors  ;  and  after  having  played 
off  divers  Crow  pranks  and  pleasantries,  suffered  him  to  depart 
unharmed.  It  is  true,  they  stripped  him  completely,  one  taking 
his  horse,  another  his  gun,  a  third  his  traps,  a  fourth  his  blanket, 
and  so  on,  through  all  his  accoutrements,  and  even  his  clothing. 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


until  he  was  stark  naked  ;  but  then  they  generously  made  him  a 
present  of  an  old  tattered  buffalo  robe,  and  dismissed  him,  with 
many  complimentary  speeches,  and  much  laughter.  When  the 
trapper  returned  to  the  camp,  in  such  sorry  plight,  he  was  greeted 
with  peals  of  laughter  from  his  comrades,  and  seemed  more  mor- 
tified by  the  style  in  which  he  had  been  dismissed,  than  rejoiced 
at  escaping  with  his  life.  A  circumstance  which  he  related  to 
Captain  Bonneville,  gave  some  insight  into  the  cause  of  this  ex- 
treme jocularity  on  the  part  of  the  Crows.  They  had  evidently 
had  a  run  of  luck,  and,  like  winning  gamblers,  were  in  high  good 
humor.  Among  twenty-six  fine  horses,  and  some  mules,  which 
composed  their  cavalcade,  the  trapper  recognized  a  number  which 
had  belonged  to  Fitzpatrick's  brigade,  when  they  parted  company 
on  the  Bighorn.  It  was  supposed,  therefore,  that  these  vaga- 
bonds had  been  on  his  trail,  and  robbed  him  of  part  of  his 
cavalry. 

On  the  day  following  this  affair,  three  Crows  came  into 
Captain  Bonneville's  camp,  with  the  most  easy,  innocent,  if  not 
impudent  air  imaginable ;  walking  about  with  that  imperturbable 
coolness  and  unconcern,  in  which  the  Indian  rivals  the  fine 
gentleman.  As  they  had  not  been  of  the  set  which  stripped  the 
trapper,  though  evidently  of  the  same  band,  they  were  not 
molested.  Indeed,  Captain  Bonneville  treated  them  with  his 
usual  kindness  and  hospitality ;  permitting  them  to  remain  all 
day  in  the  camp,  and  even  to  pass  the  night  there.  At  the  same 
time,  however,  he  caused  a  strict  watch  to  be  maintained  on  all 
their  movements  ;  and  at  night,  stationed  an  armed  sentinel  near 
them.  The  Crows  remonstrated  against  the  latter  being  armed. 
This  only  made  the  captain  suspect  them  to  be  spies,  who  medi- 
tated treachery ;  he  redoubled,  therefore,  his  precautions.     At 


ARRIVAL  AT  GREEN  RIVER. 


237 


the  same  time,  he  assured  his  guests,  that  while  they  were  per- 
fectly welcome  to  the  shelter  and  comfort  of  his  camp,  yet,  should 
any  of  their  tribe  venture  to  approach  during  the  night,  they 
would  certainly  be  shot ;  which  would  be  a  very  unfortunate  cir- 
cumstance, and  much  to  be  deplored.  To  the  latter  remark, 
they  fully  assented;  and  shortly  afterward  commenced  a  wild 
song,  or  chant,  which  they  kept  up  for  a  long  time,  and  in  which, 
they  very  probably  gave  their  friends,  who  might  be  prowling 
around  the  camp,  notice  that  the  white  men  were'  on  the  alert. 
The  night  passed  away  without  disturbance.  In  the  morning, 
the  three  Crow  guests  were  very  pressing  that  Captain  Bonneville 
and  his  party  should  accompany  them  to  their  camp,  which  they 
said  was  close  by.  Instead  of  accepting  their  invitation.  Cap- 
tain Bonneville  took  his  departure  with  all  possible  dispatch, 
eager  to  be  out  of  the  vicinity  of  such  a  piratical  horde ;  nor  did 
he  relax  the  diligence  of  his  march,  until,  on  the  second  day,  he 
reached  the  banks  of  the  Sweet  Water,  beyond  the  limits  of  the 
Crow  country,  and  a  heavy  fall  of  snow  had  obliterated  all  traces 
of  his  course. 

He  now  continued  on  for  som',  few  days,  at  a  slower  pace, 
round  the  point  of  the  mountain  towards  Green  River,  and 
arrived  once  more  at  the  caches,  on  the  14th  of  October. 

Here  they  found  traces  of  the  band  of  Indians  who  had 
hunted  them  in  the  defile  towards  the  head  waters  of  Wind 
River.  Having  lost  all  trace  of  them  on  their  way  over  the 
mountains,  they  had  turned  and  followed  back  their  trail  down 
Green  River  valley  to  the  caches.  One  of  these  they  had  dis- 
covered and  broken  open,  but  it  fortunately  contained  nothing 
but  fragments  of  old  iron,  which  they  had  scattered  about  in  all 
directions,  and  then  departed.     In  examining  their  deserted 


S38 


g 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


camp,  Captain  Bonneville  discovered  that  it  numbered  thirty- 
nine  fires,  and  had  more  reason  than  ever  to  congratulate  himself 
on  having  escaped  the  clutches  of  such  a  formidable  band  of 
freebooters. 

He  now  turned  his  course  southward,  under  cover  of  the 
mountains,  and  on  the  25th  of  October  reached  Liberge's  Ford, 
a  tributary  of  the  Colorado,  where  he  came  suddenly  upon  the 
trail  of  this  same  war  party,  which  had  crossed  the  stream  so 
recently,  that  the  banks  were  yet  wet  with  the  water  that  had 
been  splashed  upon  them.  To  judge  from  their  tracks,  they 
could  not  be  less  than  three  hundred  warriors,  and  apparently  of 
the  Crow  nation. 

Captain  Bonneville  was  extremely  uneasy  lest  this  overpower- 
ing force  should  come  upon  him  in  some  place  where  he  would  not 
have  the  means  of  fortifying  himself  promptly.  He  now  moved 
towards  Hane's  Fork,  another  tributary  of  the  Colorado,  where 
he  encamped,  and  remained  during  the  26th  of  October.  Seeing 
a  large  cloud  of  smoke  to  the  south,  he  supposed  it  to  arise  from 
some  encampment  of  Shoshonies,  and  sent  scouts  to  procure 
information,  and  to  purchase  a  lodge.  It  was,  in  fact,  a  band  of 
Shoshonies,  but  with  them  were  encamped  Fitzpatrick  and  his 
party  of  trappers.  That  active  leader  had  an  eventful  story  to 
relate  of  his  fortunes  in  the  country  of  the  Crows.  After  parting 
with  Captain  Bonneville  on  the  banks  of  the  Bighorn,  he  made 
for  the  west,  to  trap  upon  Powder  and  Tongue  Kivers.  He  had 
between  twenty  and  thirty  men  with  him,  and  about  one  hundred 
horses.  So  large  a  cavalcade  could  not  pass  through  the  Crow 
country  without  attracting  the  attention  of  its  freebooting  hordes. 
A  large  band  of  Crows  were  soon  on  their  traces,  and  came  up 
with  them  on  the  5th  of  September,  just  as  they  had  reached 


FITZPATRICK  AND  THE  CROWS. 


939 


Tongue  River.  The  Crow  cliief  caine  forward  with  great  appear- 
ance of  friendship,  and  proposed  to  Fitzpatrick  that  they  should 
encamp  together.  The  latter,  however,  not  having  any  faith  in 
Crows,  declined  the  invitation,  and  pitcl'  .  his  camp  three  miles 
off.  He  then  rode  over,  with  two  or  three  men,  to  visit  the  Crow 
cliief,  by  whom  he  was  received  with  great  apparent  cordiality. 
In  the  meantime,  however,  a  party  of  young  braves,  who  consid- 
ered them  absolved  by  his  distrust  from  all  scruples  of  honor, 
made  a  circuit  privately,  and  dashed  into  his  encampment.  Cap- 
tain Stewart,  who  had  remained  there  in  the  absence  of  Fitzpat- 
rick, behaved  with  great  spirit ;  but  the  Crows  were  too  numerous 
and  active.  They  had  got  possession  of  the  camp,  and  soon  made 
booty  of  every  thing — carrying  off  all  the  horses.  On  their  way 
back  they  met  Fitzpatrick  returning  to  his  camp ;  and  finished 
their  exploit  by  rifling  and  nearly  stripping  him. 

A  negotiation  now  took  place  between  the  plundered  white 
men  and  the  triumphant  Crows ;  what  eloquence  and  manage- 
ment Fitzpatrick  made  use  of,  we  do  not  know,  but  he  succeeded 
in  prevailing  upon  the  Crow  chieftain  to  return  him  his  horses 
and  many  of  his  traps ;  together  with  his  rifles  and  a  few  rounds 
of  ammunition  for  each  man.  He  then  set  out  with  all  speed  to 
abandon  the  Crow  country,  before  he  should  meet  with  any  fresh 
disasters. 

After  his  departure,  the  consciences  of  some  of  the  most 
orthodox  Crows  pricked  them  sorely  for  having  suffered  such  a 
cavalcade  to  escape  out  of  their  hands.  Anxious  to  wipe  off  so 
foul  a  stigma  on  the  reputation  of  the  Crow  nation,  they  followed 
on  his  trail,  nor  quit  hovering  about  him  on  his  march  until  they 
had  stolen  a  number  of  his  best  horses  and  mules.  It  was, 
doubtless,  this  same  band  which  came  upon  the  lonely  trapper  on 


\^,<y^^ 


940 


I 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


the  Popo  Agie,  and  generously  gave  him  an  old  buffalo  robe  in 
exchange  for  his  rifle,  his  traps,  and  all  his  accoutrements.  With 
these  anecdotes,  we  shall,  for  the  present,  take  our  leave  of  the 
Crow  Country  and  its  vagabond  chivalry. 


. 


•   .     I 


THE  LITTLE   LAKE. 


341 


:-^  -\ 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

A  region  of  natural  curiosities. — The  plain  of  white  clay. — Hot  springs. — The 
Beer  Spring. — Departure  to  seek  the  free  trappers. — Plain  of  Portneuf.— 
Lava. — Chasms  and  gullies. — Banneck  Indians — their  hunt  of  the  bufTalo. 
Hunters'  feast. — Trencher  heroes. — Bullying  of  an  absent  foe. — The  damp 
comrade. — The  Indian  spy. — Meeting  with  Hodgkiss — his  adventures. — 
Poordevil  Indians. — Triumph  of  the  Bannecks Blackfeet  policy  in  war. 


CiiossiNG  an  elevated  ridge,  Captain  Bonneville  now  came  upon 
Bear  River,  which,  from  its  source  to  its  entrance  into  the  Great 
Salt  Lake,  describes  the  figure  of  a  horse-shoe.  One  of  the  prin- 
cipal head  waters  of  this  river,  although  supposed  to  abound 
with  beaver,  has  never  been  visited  by  the  trapper ;  rising  among 
rugged  mountains,  and  being  barricadoed  by  fallen  pine  trees  and 
tremendous  precipices. 

Proceeding  down  this  river,  the  party  encamped,  on  the  6th  of 
November,  at  the  outlet  of  a  lake  about  thirty  miles  long,  and 
from  two  to  three  miles  in  width,  completely  imbedded  in  low 
ranges  of  mountains,  and  connected  with  Bear  River  by  an  im- 
passable swamp.  It  is  called  the  Little  Lake,  to  distinguish  it 
from  the  great  one  of  salt  water. 

On  the  10th  of  November,  Captain  Bonneville  visited  a  place 
in  the  neighborhood  which  is  quite  a  region  of  natural  curiosities. 
An  area  of  about  half  a  mile  square  presents  a  level  surface  of 
white  clay  or  fullers'  earth,  perfectly  spotless,  resembling  a  great 

11 


'A' 


^' 


'>   -• 


949 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


slab  of  Parian  marble,  or  a  sheet  of  dazzling  snow.  The  effect 
is  strikingly  beautiful  at  all  times :  in  summer,  when  it  is  sur- 
rounded with  verdure,  or  in  autumn,  when  it  contrasts  its  bright 
immaculate  surface  with  the  withered  herbage.  Seen  from  a  dis- 
tant eminence,  it  then  shines  like  a  mirror,  set  in  the  brown  land- 
scape. Around  this  plain  are  clustered  numerous  springs  of 
various  sizes  and  temperatures.  One  of  them,  of  scalding  heat, 
boils  furiously  and  incessantly,  rising  to  the  height  of  two  or 
three  feet.  In  another  place,  there  is  an  aperture  in  the  earth, 
from  which  rushes  a  column  of  steam  that  forms  a  perpetual 
cloud.  The  ground  for  some  distance  around  sounds  hollow,  and 
startles  the  solitary  trapper,  as  he  hears  the  tramp  of  his  hovso 
giving  the  sound  of  a  muffled  drum.  He  pictures  to  himself  a 
mysterious  gulf  below,  a  place  of  hidden  fires,  and  gaz^s  round 
him  with  awe  and  uneasiness. 

The  most  noted  curiosity,  however,  of  this  singular  region,  is 
the  Beer  Sprifig,  of  which  trappers  give  wonderful  accounts. 
They  are  said  to  turn  aside  from  their  route  through  the  country 
to  drink  of  its  waters,  with  as  much  eagerness  as  the  Arab  s^ks 
some  famous  well  of  the  desert.  Captain  Bonneville  describes  it 
as  having  the  taste  of  beer.  His  men  drank  it  with  avidity,  and 
in  copious  draughts.  It  did  not  appear  to  him  to  possess  any 
medicinal  properties,  or  to  produce  any  peculiar  effects.  The 
Indians,  however,  refuse  to  taste  it,  and  endeavor  to  persuade  the 
white  men  from  doing  so. 

We  have  heard  this  also  called  the  Soda  Spring,  and  described 
as  containing  iron  and  sulphur.  It  probably  possesses  some  of 
the  properties  of  the  Ballston  water. 

The  time  had  now  arrived  for  Captain  Bonneville  to  go  in 
quest  of  the  party  of  free  trappers,  detached  in  the  beginning  of 


1 


n 


•I 


*!f,l 


BANNECK   INDIANS. 


4> 

iM3 


■;?:^ 


July,  under  the  command  of  Mr.  Hodgkiss,  to  trap  upon  the 
head  waters  of  Salmon  River.  His  intention  was  to  unite  them 
with  the  party  with  which  he  was  at  present  travelling,  that  all 
might  go  into  quarters  together  for  the  winter.  Accordingly,  on 
the  11th  of  November,  he  took  a  temporary  leave  of  his  band, 
appointing  a  rendezvous  on  Snake  River,  and,  accompanied  by 
three  men,  set  out  upon  his  journey.  His  route  lay  across  the 
plain  of  the  Portneuf,  a  tributary  stream  of  Snake  River,  called 
after  an  unfortunate  Canadian  trapper,  murdered  by  the  Indians. 
The  whole  country  through  which  he  passed,  bore  evidence  of 
volcanic  convulsions  and  conflagrations  in  the  olden  time.  Great 
masses  of  lava  lay  scattered  about  in  every  direction  ;  the  crags 
and  cliifs  had  apparently  been  under  the  action  of  fire  ;  the  rocks 
in  some  places  seemed  to  have  been  in  a  state  of  fusion  ;  the  plain 
was  rent  and  split  with  deep  chasms  and  gullies,  some  of  which 
were  partly  filled  with  lava. 

They  had  not  proceeded  far,  however,  before  they  saw  a  party 
of  horsemen,  galloping  full  tilt  towards  them.  They  instantly 
turned,  and  made  full  speed  for  the  covert  of  a  woody  stream,  to 
fortify  themselves  among  the  trees.  The  Indians  came  to  a  halt, 
and  one  of  them  came  forward  alone.  He  reached  Captain  Bon- 
neville and  his  men  just  as  they  were  dismounting  and  about  to 
post  themselves.  A  few  words  dispelled  all  uneasiness.  It  was 
a  party  of  twenty-five  Banneck  Indians,  friendly  to  the  whites, 
and  they  proposed,  through  their  envoy,  that  both  parties  should 
encamp  together,  and  hunt  the  buffialo,  of  which  they  had  dis- 
covered several  large  herds  hard  by.  Captain  Bonneville  cheer- 
fully assented  to  their  proposition,  being  curious  to  see  their 
manner  of  hunting. 

Both  parties  accordingly  encamped  together  on  a  convenient 


I  r 


I- 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


Spot,  and  prepared  for  the  liunt.  The  Indians  first  posted  a  boy 
on  a  small  hill  near  the  camp,  to  keep  a  look-out  for  enemies. 
The  "  runners,"  then,  as  they  are  called,  mounted  on  fleet  horses, 
and  armed  with  bows  and  arrows,  moved  slowly  and  cautiously 
toward  the  buffalo,  keeping  as  much  as  possible  out  of  sight,  in 
hollows  and  ravines.  When  within  a  proper  distance,  a  signal 
was  given,  and  they  all  opened  at  once  like  a  pack  of  hounds, 
with  a  full  chorus  of  yells,  dashing  into  the  midst  of  the  herds, 
and  launching  their  arrows  to  the  right  and  left.  The  plain 
seemed  absolutely  to  shake  under  the  tramp  of  the  buffalo,  as 
they  scoured  off.  The  cows  in  headlong  panic,  the  bulls  furious 
with  rage,  uttering  deep  roars,  and  occasionally  turning  with  a 
desperate  rush  upon  their  pursuers.  Nothing  could  surpass  the 
spirit,  grace,  and  dexterity,  with  which  the  Indians  managed  their 
horses ;  wheeling  and  coursing  among  the  affrighted  herd,  and 
launching  their  arrows  with  unerring  aim.  In  the  midst  of  the 
apparent  confusion,  they  selected  their  victims  with  perfect  judg- 
ment, generally  aiming  at  the  fattest  of  the  cows,  the  flesh  of  the 
bull  being  nearly  worthless,  at  this  season  of  the  year.  In  a  few 
minutes,  each  of  the  hunters  had  crippled  three  or  four  cows. 
A  single  shot  was  sufficient  for  the  purpose,  and  the  animal,  once 
maimed,  was  left  to  be  completely  dispatched  at  the  end  of  the 
chase.  Frequently,  a  cow  was  killed  on  the  spot  by  a  single 
arrow.  In  one  instance.  Captain  Bonneville  saw  an  Indian  shoot 
his  arrow  completely  through  the  body  of  a  cow,  so  that  it  struck 
in  the  ground  beyond.  The  bulls,  however,  are  not  so  easily 
killed  as  the  cows,  and  always  cost  the  hunter  several  arrows  ; 
sometimes  making  battle  upon  the  horses,  and  chasing  them 
furiously,  though  severely  wounded,  with  the  darts  still  sticking 
in  their  flesh. 


'lij 


FIOHTING  TIIK  WIND. 


945 


The  grand  scamper  of  the  Imnt  being  over,  the  Indians  pro- 
ceeded to  tlisputch  the  animals  that  had  been  disabled;  then 
cutting  up  the  carcasses,  they  returned  witjj  loads  of  meat  to  tho 
camp,  where  the  choicest  pieces  were  soon  roasting  beforr*  larj'o 
fires,  and  a  hunters'  fcas-*;  succeeded;  at  wliioh  Cantair  Bonno. 
vdlo  and  his  men  wore  (jualified,  by  previous  fastv'ij;,  to  pf)rf')rm 
their  parts  with  great  vigor. 

Some  men  are  said  to  wax  valorous  upon  a  full  jito\i;«.-Ji,  aod. 
such  seemed  to  be  the  case  with  tlie  Banneck  bivivt  s,  v/u* ,  m 
proportion  as  they  crammed  themselves  with  bv'Kalo  meat,  g»*<n« 
stout  of  heart,  until,  the  supper  at  an  end,  they  bc'^au  to  ch;''>o 
war  songs,  setting  forth  their  mighty  deeds,  and  the  vi(;'orit?i:> 
they  had  gained  over  the  Uhickfeet.  Warming  wit',',  tho  tI»ouio, 
and  inflating  themselves  with  their  own  culcgies,  these  riagni>:>i- 
mous  heroes  of  tho  trencher  would  start  up,  adv^noo  n  sliorfc 
distance  beyond  the  light  of  the  fire,  and  apostrophize  mosli 
vehemently  their  Blackfect  enemies,  as  tliough  the}  had  been 
within  hearing,  lluffling,  and  swelling,  and  snorting,  and  slap- 
ping their  breasts,  and  brandishing  their  arms,  they  v;ould 
vociferate  all  their  exploits ;  reminding  tho  Bhiekfoet  liow  they 
had  drenched  their  towns  in  tears  and  blood;  «n\'n  orrto  the 
blows  they  had  inflicted,  the  warriors  they  had  slain,  tlie  &.calns 
they  had  brought  off  in  triumph.  Then,  havi.g  isrtid  every  thing 
that  could  stir  a  man's  spleen  or  pi(|ue  his  v-Alor.  thoy  would  dare 
their  imaginary  hearers,  now  thrf  the  Bannocks  were  few  in 
number,  to  come  and  takf  dmr  revenge — receiving  no  reply  to 
this  valorous  br^ivado,  they  would  conclude  by  all  kinds  of  sneers 
and  insults,  deriding  the  Blackfeet  for  dastards  and  poltroons, 
that  dared  not  accept  their  challenge.  Such  is  the  kind  of 
swaggering  and  rhodomontade  in  which  tho  "red  men"  are  prone 


iij\ 


bmI 


946 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


to  indulge  in  their  vainglorious  moments ;  for,  with  all  their 
vaunted  taciturnity,  they  are  vehemently  prone  at  times  to 
become  eloquent  about  their  exploits,  and  to  sound  their  own 
trumpet. 

Having  vented  their  valor  in  this  fierce  effervescence,  the 
Banneck  braves  gradually  calmed  down,  lowered  their  crests, 
smoothed  their  ruffled  feathers,  and  betook  themselves  to  sleep, 
without  placing  a  single  guard  over  their  camp ;  so  that,  had  the 
Blackfeet  taken  them  at  their  word,  but  few  of  these  braggart 
heroes  might  have  survived  for  any  further  boasting. 

On  the  following  morning.  Captain  Bonneville  purchased  a 
supply  of  buffalo  meat  from  his  braggadocio  friends ;  who,  with 
all  their  vaporing,  were  in  fact  a  very  forlorn  horde,  destitute  of 
firearms,  and  of  almost  every  thing  that  constitutes  riches  in 
savage  life.  The  bargain  concluded,  the  Bannecks  set  off  for 
their  village,  which  was  situated,  they  said,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Portneuf,  and  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  companions  shaped 
their  course  towards  Snake  River. 

Arrived  on  the  banks  of  that  river,  he  found  it  rapid  and 
boisterous,  but  not  too  deep  to  be  forded.  In  traversing  it,  how- 
ever, one  of  the  horses  was  swept  suddenly  from  his  footing,  and 
his  rider  was  flung  from  the  saddle  into  the  midst  of  the  stream. 
Both  horse  and  horseman  were  extricated  without  any  damage, 
excepting  that  the  latter  was  completely  drenched,  so  that  it  was 
necessary  to  kindle  a  fire  to  dry  him.  While  they  were  thus 
occupied,  one  of  the  party  looking  up,  perceived  an  Indian  scout 
cautiously  reconnoitring  them  from  the  summit  of  a  ne'ghboring 
hill.  The  moment  he  found  himself  discovered,  he  disappeared 
behind  the  hill.  From  his  furtive  movements.  Captain  Bonne- 
ville suspected  him  to  be  a  scout  from  the  Blackfeet  camp,  and 


HODGKISS  AND  HIS   BAND. 


S47 


the 


and 


that  he  hud  gone  to  report  what  he  had  seen  to  his  companions. 
It  would  not  do  to  loiter  in  such  a  neighborhood,  so  the  kindling 
of  the  fire  was  abandoned,  the  drenched  horseman  mounted  in 
dripping  condition,  and  the  little  band  pushed  forward  directly 
into  the  ])laiu,  going  at  a  smart  pace,  until  they  had  gained  a 
considerable  distance  from  the  place  of  supposed  danger.  Here 
encamping  for  the  night,  in  the  midst  of  abundance  of  sage,  or 
wormwood,  which  afforded  fodder  for  their  horses,  they  kindled 
a  huge  fire  for  the  benefit  of  their  damp  comrade,  and  then  pro- 
ceeded to  prepare  a  sumptuous  supper  of  buffalo  humps  and  ribs, 
and  other  choice  bits,  which  they  had  brought  with  them.  After 
a  hearty  repast,  relished  with  an  appetite  unknown  to  city  epi- 
cures, tliey  stretched  themselves  upon  their  couches  of  skins,  and 
under  the  starry  canopy  of  heaven,  enjoyed  the  sound  and  sweet 
nleep  of  hardy  and  well-fed  mountaineers. 

They  continued  on  their  journey  for  several  days,  without  any 
incident  worthy  of  notice,  and  on  the  19th  of  November,  came 
upon  traces  of  the  party  of  which  they  were  in  search  ;  such  as 
burnt  patches  of  prairie,  and  deserted  camping  grounds.  All 
these  were  carefully  examined,  to  discover  by  their  freshness  or 
anti([uity  the  probable  time  that  the  trappers  had  left  them ;  at 
length,  after  mu^h  wandering  and  investigating,  they  came  upon 
the  regular  trail  ot  the  hunting  party,  which  led  into  the  moun- 
tains, and  following  it  up  briskly,  came  about  two  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon  of  the  20th,  upon  the  encampment  of  Hodgkiss  and 
his  band  of  free  trappers,  in  the  bosom  of  a  mountain  valley. 

It  will  be  recollected  that  these  free  trappers,  who  were 
masters  of  themselves  and  their  movements,  had  refused  to 
accompany  Captain  Bonneville  back  to  Green  River  in  the 
preceding  month  of  July,  preferring  to  trap  about  the  upper 


hi: 


S48 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


waters  of  the  Salmon  River,  where  they  expected  to  find  plenty 
of  beaver,  and  a  less  dangerous  neighborhood.  Their  hunt  had 
not  been  very  successful.  They  had  penetrated  the  great  range 
of  mountains  among  which  some  of  the  upper  branches  of  Salmon 
River  take  their  rise,  but  had  become  so  entangled  among 
immense  and  almost  impassable  barricades  of  fallen  pines,  and 
so  impeded  by  tremendous  precipices,  that  a  great  part  of  their 
season  had  been  wasted  among  those  mountains.  At  one  time, 
they  had  made  their  way  through  them,  and  reached  the  Boissee 
River ;  but  meeting  with  a  band  of  Banneck  Indians,  from  whom 
they  apprehended  hostilities,  they  had  again  taken  shelter  among 
the  mountains,  where  they  were  found  by  Captain  Bonneville. 
In  the  neighborhood  of  their  encampment,  the  captain  had  the 
good  fortune  to  meet  with  ;;,  family  of  those  wanderers  of  tho 
mountains,  emphatically  called  "  les  dignes  de  pitie,"  or  Poor- 
devil  Indians.  These,  however,  appear  to  have  forfeited  the 
title,  for  they  had  with  them  a  fine  lot  of  skins  of  beaver,  elk, 
deer,  and  mountain  sheep.  These,  Captain  Bonneville  purchased 
from  them  at  a  fair  valuation,  and  sent  them  off  astonished  at 
their  own  wealth,  and  no  doubt  objects  of  envy  to  «all  their  pitiful 
tribe. 

Being  now  reinforced  by  Hodgkiss  and  his  band  of  free  trap- 
pers. Captain  Bonneville  put  himself  at  the  head  of  the  united 
parties,  and  set  out  to  rejoin  those  he  had  recently  left  at  the 
Beer  Spring,  that  they  might  all  go  into  winter  quarters  on 
Snake  River.  On  his  route,  he  encountered  many  heavy  falls 
of  snow,  which  melted  almost  immediately,  so  as  not  to  impede 
his  march,  and  on  the  4th  of  December,  he  found  his  other 
party,  encamped  at  the  very  place  where  he  had  partaken  in  the 
buffalo  hunt  with  the  Ban  necks. 


A  BANNECK  VICTORY. 


349 


That  braggart  horde  was  encamped  but  about  three  miles  off, 
and  were  just  then  in  high  glee  and  festivity,  and  more  swagger- 
ing than  ever,  celebrating  a  prodigious  victory.  It  appeared  that 
a  party  of  their  braves  being  out  on  a  hunting  excursion,  disco- 
vered a  band  of  Blackfeet  moving,  as  they  thought,  to  surprise 
their  hunting  camp.  The  Bannecks  immediately  posted  them- 
selves on  each  side  of  a  dark  ravine,  through  which  the  enemy 
must  pass,  and,  just  as  they  were  entangled  in  the  midst  of  it, 
attacked  them  with  great  fury.  The  Blackfeet,  struck  with  sud- 
den panic,  threw  off  their  buffalo  robes  and  fled,  leaving  one  of 
their  warriors  dead  on  the  spot.  The  victors  eagerly  gathered 
up  the  spoils  ;  but  their  greatest  prize  was  the  scalp  of  the  Black- 
foot  brave.  This  they  bore  off  in  triumph  to  their  village,  where 
it  had  ever  since  been  an  object  of  the  greatest  exultation  and 
rejoicing.  It  had  been  elevated  upon  a  pole  in  the  centre  of  the 
village,  wherc)  the  warriors  had  celebrated  the  scalp  dance  round 
it,  with  war  feasts,  war  songs,  and  warlike  harangues.  It  had 
then  been  given  up  to  the  women  and  boys  ;  who  had  paraded  it 
up  and  down  the  village  with  shouts  and  chants  and  antic  dances ; 
occasionally  saluting  it  with  all  kinds  of  taunts,  invectives,  and 
revilings. 

The  Blackfeet,  in  this  affair,  do  not  appear  to  have  acted  up 
to  the  character  which  has  rendered  them  objects  of  such  terror. 
Indeed,  their  conduct  in  war,  to  the  inexperienced  observer,  is 
full  of  inconsistencies  ;  at  one  time  they  are  headlong  in  courage, 
and  heedless  of  danger  ;  at  another  time  cautious  almost  to  cow- 
ardice. To  understand  these  apparent  incongruities,  one  must 
know  their  principles  of  warfare.  A  war  party,  however  tri- 
umphant, if  they  lose  a  warrior  in  the  fight,  bring  back  a  cause 
of  mourning  to  their  people,  which  casts  a  shade  over  the  glory 

n* 


'I 


■  \ 


V 


950 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


of  their  achievement.  Hence,  the  Indian  is  often  less  fierce  and 
reckless  in  general  battle,  than  he  is  in  a  private  brawl ;  and  the 
chiefs  are  checked  in  their  boldest  undertakings  by  the  fear  of 
sacrificing  their  warriors. 

This  peculiarity  is  njt  confined  to  the  Blackfeet.  \mong 
the  Osages,  says  Captain  Bonneville,  when  a  warrior  falls  in  bat- 
tle, his  comrades,  though  they  may  have  fought  with  consummate 
valor,  and  won  a  glorious  victory,  will  leave  their  arms  upon  the 
field  of  battle,  and  returning  home  with  dejected  countenances, 
will  halt  without  the  encampment,  and  wait  until  the  relatives 
of  the  slain  come  forth  and  invite  them  to  mingle  again  with 
their  people. 


WINTER  CAMP  AT  THE  PORTNEUF. 


251 


./  *    ■• 


CHAPTER  XXIX.  .      * 

Winter  camp  at  the  Portneuf. — Fine  springs. — The  Banneck  Indians — their 
honesty. — Captain  Bonneville  prepares  for  an  expedition. — Christmas.— 
The  American  falls. — Wild  scenery. — Fishing  falls. — Snake  Indians. — 
Scenery  on  the  Bruneau. — View  of  volcanic  country  from  a  mountain. — 
Powder  River. — Shoshokoes,  or  Root  Diggers — their  character,  habits,  hab- 
itations, dogs. — Vanity  at  its  last  shift. 


In  establishing  his  winter  camp  near  the  Portneuf,  Captain  Bon- 
neville had  drawn  off  to  some  little  distance  from  his  Banneck 
friends,  to  avoid  all  annoyance  from  their  intimacy  or  intrusions. 
In  so  doing,  however,  he  had  been  obliged  to  take  up  his  quarters 
on  the  extreme  edge  of  the  flat  land,  where  he  was  encompassed 
with  ice  and  snow,  and  had  nothing  better  for  his  horses  to  sub- 
sist on  than  wormwood.  The  Bannecks,  on  the  contrary,  were 
encamped  among  fine  springs  of  water,  where  there  was  grass  in 
abundance.  Some  of  these  springs  ^ush  out  of  the  earth  in  suf- 
ficient quantity  to  turn  a  mill ;  and  furnish  beautiful  streams, 
clear  as  crystal,  and  full  of  trout  of  a  large  size  ;  which  may  be 
seen  darting  about  the  transparent  water. 

Winter  now  set  in  regularly.  The  snow  had  fallen  frequently, 
and  in  large  quantities,  and  covered  the  ground  to  the  depth  of 
a  foot ;  and  the  continued  coldness  of  the  weather  prevented 
any  thaw. 


m 

ml 


ill'! 


252 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


By  degress,  a  distrust  which  at  first  subsisted  between  the 
Indians  and  the  trappers,  subsided,  and  gave  way  to  mutual  confi- 
dence and  good-will.  A  few  presents  convinced  the  chiefs  that 
the  white  men  w^ere  their  friends  :  nor  were  the  white  men  want- 
ing in  proofs  of  the  honesty  and  good  faith  of  their  savage  neigh- 
bors. Occasionally,  the  deep  snow  and  the  want  of  fodder 
obliged  them  to  turn  their  weakest  horses  out  to  roam  in  quest 
of  sustenance.  If  they  at  any  time  strayed  to  the  camp  of  the 
Bannecks,  they  were  immediately  brought  back.  It  must  be  con- 
fessed, however,  that  if  the  stray  horse  happened,  by  any  chance, 
to  be  in  vigorous  plight  and  good  condition,  though  he  was 
equally  sure  to  be  returned  by  the  honest  Bannecks,  yet  it  was 
alwayh  after  the  lapse  of  several  days,  and  in  a  very  gaunt  and 
jaded  state ;  and  always  with  the  remark,  that  they  had  found 
him  a  long  way  off.  The  uncharitable  were  apt  to  surmise  that 
he  had,  in  the  interim,  been  well  used  up  in  a  buffalo  hunt ;  but 
those  accustomed  to  Indian  morality  in  the  matter  of  horseflesh, 
considered  it  a  singular  evidence  of  honesty,  that  he  should  be 
brought  back  at  all. 

Being  convinced,  therefore,  from  these,  and  other  circum- 
stances, that  his  people  were  encamped  in  the  neighborhood  of  a 
tribe  as  honest  as  they  were  valiant,  and  satisfied  that  they  would 
pass  their  winter  unmolested,  Captain  Bonneville  prepared  for  a 
reconnoitring  expedition  of  great  extent  and  peril.  This  was,  to 
penetrate  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  establishments  on  the  banks  of 
the  Columbia,  and  to  make  himself  acquainted  with  the  country 
and  the  Indian  tribes  ;  it  being  one  part  of  his  scheme  to  estab- 
lish a  trading  post  somewhere  on  the  lower  part  of  the  river,  so 
as  to  participate  in  the  trade  lost  to  the  United  States  by  the 
capture  of  Astoria.     This  expedition  would,  of  course,  take  him 


DEPARTURE  FOR  THE  COLUMBIA. 


253 


through  the  Snake  River  country,  and  across  the  Blue  Moun- 
tains, the  scenes  of  so  much  hardship  and  disaster  to  Hunt  and 
Crooks,  and  their  Astorian  bands,  who  first  explored  it,  and  ho 
would  have  to  pass  through  it  in  the  same  frightful  season,  the 
depth  of  winter. 

The  idea  of  risk  and  hardship,  however,  only  served  to  stimu- 
late the  adventurous  spirit  of  the  captain.  He  chose  three  com- 
panions for  his  journey,  put  up  a  small  stock  of  necessaries  in 
the  most  portable  form,  and  selected  five  horses  and  mules  for 
themselves  and  their  baggage.  He  proposed  to  rejoin  his  band 
in  the  early  part  of  March,  at  the  winter  encampment  near  the 
Portneuf  All  these  arrangements  being  completed,  he  mounted 
his  horse  on  Christmas  morning,  and  set  off  with  his  three  com- 
rades. They  halted  a  little  beyond  the  Banneck  camp,  and  made 
their  Christmas  dinner,  which,  if  not  a  very  merry,  was  a  very 
hearty  one,  after  which  they  resumed  their  journey. 

They  were  obliged  to  travel  slowly,  to  spare  their  horses  ;  for 
the  snow  had  increased  in  depth  to  eighteen  inches  ;  and  though 
somewhat  packed  and  frozen,  was  not  sufficiently  so  to  yield  firm 
footing.  Their  route  lay  to  the  west,  down  along  the  left  side  of 
Snake  River ;  and  they  were  several  days  in  reaching  the  first, 
or  American  Falls.  The  banks  of  the  river,  for  a  considerable 
distance,  both  above  and  below  the  falls,  have  a  volcanic  charac- 
ter :  masses  of  basaltic  rock  are  piled  one  upon  another ;  the 
water  makes  its  way  through  their  broken  chasms,  boiling  through 
narrow  channels,  or  pitching  in  beautiful  cascades  over  ridges  of 
basaltic  columns. 

Beyond  these  falls,  they  came  to  a  picturesque,  but  inconsid- 
erable stream,  called  tht  Cassie.  It  runs  through  a  level  valley, 
about  four  miles  wide,  where  the  soil  is  good  ;  but  the  prevalent 


954 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES 


coldness  and  dryness  of  the  climate  is  unfavorable  to  vegetation. 
Near  to  this  stream  there  is  a  small  mountain  of  mica  slate,  in- 
cluding garnets.  Granite,  in  small  blocks,  is  likewise  seen  in 
this  neighborhood,  and  white  sandstone.  From  this  river,  the 
travellers  had  a  prospect  of  the  snowy  heights  of  the  Salmon 
River  Mountains  to  the  north  ;  the  nearest,  at  least  fifty  miles 
distant. 

In  pursuing  his  course  westward,  Captain  Bonneville  gener- 
ally ko|>t  several  miles  from  Snake  River,  crossing  the  heads  of 
its  tributary  streams  ;  though  he  often  found  the  open  country 
so  encumbered  by  volcanic  I'ocks,  as  to  render  travelling  ex- 
tremely difficult.  Whenever  he  approached  Snake  River,  he 
found  it  running  through  a  broad  chasm,  with  steep,  perpendi- 
cular sides  of  basaltic  rock.  After  several  days'  travel  across  a 
level  plain,  he  came  to  a  part  of  the  river  which  filled  him  with 
astonishment  and  admiration.  As  far  as  the  eye  could  reach, 
the  river  was  walled  in  by  perpendicular  cliffs  two  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  high,  beetling  like  dark  and  gloomy  battlements,  while 
blocks  and  fragments  lay  in  masses  at  their  feet,  in  the  midst  of 
the  boiling  and  whirling  current.  Just  above,  the  whole  stream 
pitched  in  one  cascade  above  forty  feet  in  height,  with  a  thunder- 
ing sound,  casting  up  a  volume  of  spray  that  hung  in  the  air  like 
a  silver  mist.  These  are  called  by  some  the  Fishing  Falls,  as  the 
salmon  are  taken  here  in  immense  quantities.  They  cannot  get 
by  these  falls. 

After  encamping  at  this  place  all  night,  Captain  Bonneville, 
at  sunrise,  descended  with  his  party  through  a  narrow  ravine,  or 
rather  crevice,  in  the  vast  wall  of  basaltic  rock  which  bordered 
the  river  ;  this  being  the  only  mode,  for  many  miles,  of  getting 
to  the  margin  of  the  stream. 


•I  I 


SNAKE   RIVER  DEFILE. 


355 


The  snow  lay  in  a  thin  crust  along  the  banks  of  the  river, 
so  that  their  travelling  was  much  more  easy  than  it  had  been 
hitherto.  There  were  foot  tracks,  also,  made  by  the  natives, 
which  greatly  facilitated  their  progress.  Occasionally,  they  met 
the  inhabitants  of  this  wild  region  ;  a  timid  race,  and  but  scan- 
tily provided  with  the  necessaries  of  life.  Their  dress  consisted 
of  a  mantle  about  four  feet  square,  formed  of  strips  of  rabbit 
skins  sewed  together  :  this  they  hung  over  their  shoulders,  in  the 
ordinary  Indian  mode  of  wearing  the  blanket.  Their  weapons 
were  bows  and  arrows ;  the  latter  tipped  with  obsidian,  which 
abounds  in  the  neighborhood.  Their  huts  were  shaped  like  hay- 
stacks, and  constructed  of  branches  of  willow  covered  with  long 
grass,  so  as  to  be  warm  and  comfortable.  Occasionally,  they 
were  surrounded  by  small  inclosures  of  wormwood,  about  three 
feet  high,  which  gave  them  a  cottage-like  appearance.  Three  or 
four  of  these  tenements  were  occasionally  grouped  together  in 
some  wild  and  striking  situation,  and  had  a  picturesque  effect. 
Sometimes  they  were  in  sufficient  number  to  form  a  small  ham- 
let. From  these  people.  Captain  Bonneville's  party  frequently 
purchased  salmon,  dried  in  an  admirable  manner,  as  were  like- 
wise the  roes.  This  seemied  to  be  their  prime  article  of  food ; 
but  they  were  extremely  anxious  to  get  buffalo  meat  in  ex- 
change. 

The  high  walls  and  rocks,  within  which  the  travellers  had 
been  so  long  inclosed,  now  occasionally  presented  openings, 
through  which  they  were  enabled  to  ascend  to  the  plain,  and  to 
cut  off  considerable  bends  of  the  river. 

Throughout  the  whole  extent  of  this  vast  and  singular  chasm, 
the  scenery  of  the  river  is  said  to  be  of  the  most  wild  and  ro- 
mantic character.     The  rocks  present  every  variety  of  masses 


956 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


and  grouping.  Numerous  small  streams  come  rushing  and  boil- 
ing through  narrow  clefts  and  ravines  :  one  of  a  considerable  size 
issued  from  the  face  of  a  precipice,  within  twenty-five  foot  of  its 
summit ;  and  after  running  in  nearly  a  horizontal  line  for  about 
one  hundred  feet,  fell,  by  numerous  small  cascades,  to  the  rocky 
bank  of  the  river. 

In  its  career  through  this  vast  and  singular  defile,  Snake  River 
is  upwards  of  tiiree  hundred  yards  wide,  and  as  clear  as  spring 
water.  Sometimes  it  steals  along  with  a  tranquil  and  noiseless 
course  ;  at  otl)cr  times,  for  miles  and  miles,  it  dashes  on  in  a 
thousand  rapids,  wild  and  beautiful  to  the  eye,  and  lulling  the 
ear  with  the  soft  tumult  of  plashing  waters. 

Many  of  the  tributary  streams  of  Snake  River,  rival  it  in  the 
wildness  and  picturesqueness  of  their  scenery.  That  called  the 
Bruneau  is  particularly  cited.  It  runs  through  a  tremendous 
chasm,  rather  than  a  valley,  extending  upwards  of  a  hundred  and 
fifty  miles.  You  come  upon  it  on  a  sudden,  in  traversing  a  level 
plain.  It  seems  as  if  you  could  throw  a  stone  across  from  cliff 
to  cliflf ;  yet,  the  valley  is  near  two  thousand  feet  deep  :  so  that 
the  river  looks  like  an  inconsiderable  stream.  Basaltic  rocks 
rise  perpendicularly,  so  that  it  is  impossible  to  get  from  the  plain 
to  the  water,  or  from  the  river  margin  to  the  plain.  The  current 
is  bright  and  limpid.  Hot  springs  are  found  on  the  borders  of 
this  river.  One  bursts  out  of  the  cliffs  forty  feet  above  the  river, 
in  a  stream  sufficient  to  turn  a  mill,  and  sends  up  a  cloud  of 
vapor. 

We  find  a  characteristic  picture  of  this  volcanic  region  of 
mountains  and  streams,  furni.shcd  by  the  journal  of  Mr.  Wyeth, 
which  lies  before  us  ;  who  ascended  a  peak  in  the  neighborhood 
we  are  describing.     From  this  summit,  the  country,  he  says,  ap- 


SnOSHOKOE  INDIANS. 


257 


pears  an  indescribable  chaos ;  the  tops  of  the  hills  exhibit  the 
same  strata  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach  ;  and  appear  to  have  once 
formed  the  level  of  the  country  ;  and  the  valleys  to  be  formed  by 
the  sinking  of  the  earth,  rather  than  the  rising  of  the  hills. 
Through  the  deep  cracks  and  chasms  thus  formed,  the  rivers  and 
brooks  make  their  way,  which  renders  it  difficult  to  follow  them. 
All  these  basaltic  channels  are  called  cut  rocks  by  the  trappers. 
Many  of  the  mountain  streams  disappear  in  the  plains ;  either 
absorbed  by  their  thirsty  soil,  and  by  the  porous  surface  of  the 
lava,  or  swallowed  up  in  gulfs  and  chasms. 

On  the  12th  of  January  (1834),  Captain  Bonneville  reached 
Powder  River ;  much  the  largest  stream  tliat  he  had  seen  since 
leaving  the  Portneuf  Ho  struck  it  about  three  miles  above  its 
entrance  into  Snake  River.  Here  he  found  himself  above  the 
lower  narrows  and  defiles  of  the  latter  river,  and  in  an  open  and 
level  country.  The  natives  now  made  their  appearance  in  consi- 
derable numbers,  and  evinced  the  most  insatiable  curiosity  re- 
specting the  white  men ;  sitting  in  groups  for  hours  together, 
exposed  to  the  bleakest  winds,  merely  for  the  pleasure  of  gazing 
upon  the  strangers,  and  watching  every  movqjnent.  These  are  of 
that  branch  of  the  great  Snake  tribe  called  Shoshokoes,  or  Root 
Diggers,  from  their  subsisting,  in  a  great  measure,  on  the  roots  of 
the  earth ;  though  they  likewise  take  fish  in  great  quantities,  and 
hunt,  in  a  small  way.  They  are,  in  general,  very  poor  ;  destitute 
of  most  of  the  comforts  of  life,  and  extremely  indolent :  but  a 
mild,  inoffensive  race.  They  differ,  in  many  respects,  from 
the  other  branch  of  the  Snake  tribe,  the  Shoshonies ;  who 
possess  horses,  are  more  roving  and  adventurous,  and  hunt  the 
buffalo. 

On  the  following  day,  as  Captain  Bonneville  approached  the 


^f  is 


irti 


358 


BONNEVILT^E'S   ADVRNTURFS. 


mouth  of  Powder  River,  ho  discovered  at  least  a  hundred  familios 
of  these  Diggers,  as  they  are  familiarly  called,  assembled  in  one 
place.  The  women  and  children  kept  at  a  distance,  perched 
among  the  rocks  and  clift's  ;  their  eager  curiosity  being  somewhat 
dashed  with  fear.  From  their  elevated  posts,  they  scrutinized 
the  strangers  with  the  most  intense  earnestness  ;  regarding  them 
with  almost  as  much  awe  as  if  they  had  been  beings  of  a  super- 
natural order. 

The  men,  however,  were  by  no  means  so  shy  and  reserved ; 
but  importuned  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  companions  excess- 
ively by  their  curiosity.  Nothing  escaped  their  notice ;  and  any 
thing  they  could  lay  their  hands  on,  underwent  the  most  minute 
examination.  To  get  rid  of  such  inquisitive  neighbors,  the  tra- 
vellers kept  on  for  a  considerable  distance,  before  they  encamped 
for  the  night. 

The  country,  hereabout,  was  generally  level  and  sandy ;  pro- 
ducing very  little  grass,  but  a  considerable  quantity  of  sage  or 
wormwood.  The  plains  were  diversified  by  isolated  hills,  all  cut 
oflF,  as  it  were,  about  the  same  height,  so  as  to  have  tabular  sum- 
mits. In  this  they  resembled  the  isolated  hills  of  the  great 
prairies,  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  ;  especially  those  found  on 
the  plains  of  the  Arkansas. 

The  hi^h  precipices  which  had  hitherto  walled  in  the  channel 
of  Snake  River,  had  now  disappeared  ;  and  the  banks  were  of  the 
ordinary  height.  It  should  be  observed,  that  the  great  valleys 
or  plains,  through  which  the  Snake  River  wound  its  course,  were 
generally  of  great  breadth,  extending  on  each  side  from  thirty  to 
forty  miles  ;  where  the  view  was  bounded  by  unbroken  ridges  of 
mountains. 

The  travellers  found  but  little  snow  in  the  neighborhood  of 


HUNTING  THE  ANTELOPE. 


pro- 


Powder  River,  though  the  weather  continued  intensely  cold. 
They  learnt  a  lesson,  however,  from  their  forlorn  friends,  the 
Hoot  Diggers,  which  they  subsec^uently  found  of  great  service  in 
their  wintry  wanderings.  They  frciiuently  observed  thcni  to  bo 
furnished  with  long  ropes,  twisted  from  the  bark  of  the  worm- 
wood. This  they  used  as  a  slow  niatcii,  carrying  it  always 
lighted.  Whenever  they  wished  to  warm  themselves,  they  would 
gather  together  a  little  dry  wormwood,  apply  the  match,  and  in  an 
instant  produce  a  cheering  blaze. 

Captain  Bonneville  gives  a  cheerless  account  of  a  village  of 
these  Diggers,  which  he  saw  in  crossing  the  plain  below  Powder 
Kiver.  "  They  live,"  says  he,  "  without  any  further  protection 
from  the  inclemency  of  the  season,  than  a  sort  of  break-weather, 
about  three  feet  high,  composed  of  sage,  (or  wormwood,)  and 
erected  around  them  in  the  shape  of  a  half  moon."  Whenever 
he  met  with  them,  however,  they  had  always  a  large  suite  of  half- 
starved  dogs :  for  these  animals,  in  savage  as  well  as  in  civilized 
life,  seem  to  be  the  concomitants  of  beggary. 

These  dogs,  it  must  be  allowed,  were  of  more  use  than  the 
beggarly  curs  of  cities.  The  Indian  children  used  them  in  hunt- 
ing the  small  game  of*  the  neighborhood,  such  as  rabbits  and 
prairie  dogs ;  in  which  mongrel  kind  of  chase  they  acquitted 
themselves  with  some  credit. 

Sometimes  the  Diggers  aspire  to  nobler  game,  and  succeed  in 
entrapping  the  antelope,  the  fleetest  animal  of  the  prairies.  The 
process  by  which  this  is  effected  is  somewhat  singular.  When 
the  snow  has  disappeared,  says  Captain  Bonneville,  and  the 
ground  become  soft,  the  women  go  into  the  thickest  fields  of 
wormwood,  and  pulling  it  up  in  great  quantities,  construct  with 
it  a  hedge,  about  three  feet  high,  inclosing  about  a  hundred  acres. 


lii 


260 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


i- 


' 


A  single  opening  is  left  for  the  admission  of  the  game.  This 
done,  the  women  conceal  themselves  behind  the  wormwood,  and 
wait  patiently  for  the  coming  of  the  antelopes  ;  which  sometimes 
enter  this  spacious  trap  in  considerable  numbers.  As  soon  as 
they  are  in,  the  women  give  the  signal,  and  the  men  hasten  to 
play  their  part.  But  one  of  them  enters  the  pen  at  a  time ;  and, 
after  chasing  the  terrified  animals  round  the  inclosure,  is  relieved 
by  one  of  his  companions.  In  this  way  the  hunters  take  their 
turns,  relieving  each  her,  and  keeping  up  a  continued  pursuit 
by  relays,  without  fai.gue  to  themselves.  The  poor  antelopes,  in 
th  end,  are  so  wearied  down,  that  the  whole  party  of  men  enter 
and  dispatch  them  with  clubs  ;  not  one  escaping  that  has  entered 
the  inclosure.  The  most  curious  circumstance  in  this  chase  is, 
that  an  animal  so  fleet  and  agile  as  the  antelope,  and  straining  for 
its  life,  should  range  round  and  round  this  fated  inclosure,  with- 
out attempting  to.  overleap  the  low  barrier  which  surrounds  it. 
Such,  l>owcver,  is  said  to  bo  the  fact ;  and  such  their  only  mode 
of  hun*;ing  the  antelope. 

Notwithotarding  the  absence  of  all  comfort  and  convenience 
in  their  habitations,  and  the  general  squalidness  of  their  appear- 
ance, the  Shoshokoes  do  not  appear  to  be  destitute  of  ingenuity. 
They  manufacture  good  ropes,  and  even  a  tolerably  fine  thread, 
from  a  sort  of  weed  found  in  their  neighborhood  ;  and  construct 
bowls  and  jugs  out  of  a  kind  of  basket-work  formed  from  small 
strips  of  wood  plaited :  these,  by  the  aid  of  a  little  wax,  they 
render  perfectly  water  tight.  Beside  the  roots  on  which  they 
mainly  depend  for  subsistence,  they  collect  great  (|[uantities  of 
seed,  of  various  kinds,  beaten  with  one  hand  out  of  the  tops  of 
the  plants  into  wooden  bowls  held  for  that  purpose.  The  seed 
thus  collected  is  winnowed  and  parched,  and  ground  between  two 


VANITY  IN  ITS  NAKED  STATE. 


261 


stones  into  a  kind  of  meal  or  flour ;  which,  when  mixed  with 
water,  forms  a  very  palatable  paste  or  gruel. 

Some  of  these  people,  more  provident  and  industrious  than 
the  rest,  lay  up  a  stock  of  dried  salmon,  and  other  fish,  for  winter : 
with  these,  they  were  ready  to  traflic  with  the  travellers  for  any 
objects  of  utility  in  Indian  life ;  giving  a  large  quantity  in  ex- 
change for  an  awl,  a  knife,  or  a  fish-hook.  Others  were  in  the 
most  abject  state  of  want  and  starvation  ;  and  would  even  gather 
up  the  fish-bones  which  the  travellers  threw  away  after  a  repast, 
warm  them  over  again  at  the  fire,  and  pick  them  with  the  great- 
est avidity. 

The  farther  Captain  Bonneville  advanced  into  the  country 
of  these  Root  Diggers,  the  more  evidence  he  perceived  of  their 
rude  and  forlorn  condition.  "  They  were  destitute,"  says  he, 
"  of  the  necessary  covering  to  protect  them  from  the  weather ; 
and  seemed  to  be  in  the  most  unsophisticated  ignorance  of  any 
other  propriety  or  advantage  in  the  use  of  clothing.  One  old 
dame  had  absolutely  nothing  on  her  person  but  a  thread  round 
her  neck,  from  which  was  pendent  a  solitary  bead." 

What  stage  of  human  destitution,  however,  is  too  destitute 
for  vanity  !  Though  these  naked  and  forlorn-looking  beings  had 
neither  toilet  to  arrange,  i;or  beauty  to  contemplate,  their  great- 
est passion  was  for  a  mirror.  It  was  a  "  great  medicine,"  in  their 
eyes  The  sight  of  one  was  sufficient,  at  any  time,  to  throw  them 
into  a  paroxysm  of  oagerness  and  delight ;  and  they  were  ready 
to  give  any  thing  they  had,  for  the  smallest  fragment  in  which 
they  might  behold  their  sijualid  features.  With  this  simple 
instance  of  vanity,  in  its  primitive  but  vigorous  state,  we  shall 
close  our  remarks  on  the  Root  Diggers. 


'! 

id 
,  t4 


(      1: 


'it 


262 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


i!' 


l! 


:;; 


!■ 


.i  '1 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

Temperature  of  the  climate. — Root  Diggers  on  horseback. — An  Indian  guide. 
— Mountain  prospects. — The  Grand  Rond. — Difficulties  on  Snake  River. — 
A  scramble  over  the  Blue  Mountains. — Sufferings  from  hunger. — Prospect 
of  the  Immahah  valley. — The  exhausted  traveller. 

The  temperature  of  the  regions  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  is 
much  milder  than  in  the  same  latitudes  on  the  Atlantic  side ;  the 
upper  plains,  however,  which  lie  at  a  distance  from  the  sea-coast, 
are  subject  in  winter  to  considerable  vicissitude ;  being  traversed 
by  lofty  "  sierras,"  crowned  with  perpetual  snow,  which  often 
produce  flaws  and  streaks  of  intense  cold.  This  was  experienced 
by  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  companions  in  their  progress 
westward.  At  the  time  when  they  left  the  Bannecks,  Snake 
River  was  frozen  hard :  as  they  proceeded,  the  ice  became  broken 
and  floating ;  it  gradually  disappeared,  and  the  weather  became 
warm  and  pleasant,  as  they  approached  a  tributary  stream  called 
the  Little  Wyer :  and  the  soil,  which  was  generally  of  a  watery 
clay,  with  occasional  intervals  of  sand,  was  soft  to  the  tread  of 
the  horses  After  a  time,  however,  the  mountains  approached 
and  flanked  the  river ;  the  snow  lay  deep  in  tlie  valleys,  and  the 
current  was  once  more  icebound. 

Here  they  were  visited  by  a  party  of  Root  Diggers,  who  were 
apparently  rising  in  the  world,  for  they  had  "  horse  to  ride  and 


I 


A   SLIPPERY   GUIDE. 


263 


weapon  to  wear,"  and  were  altogetlic  better  clad  and  equipped 
than  any  of  the  tribe  that  Captain  Bonneville  had  met  with. 
They  were  just  from  the  plain  of  Boisro  Kiver,  wher„  they  had 
left  a  number  of  their  tribe,  all  as  well  provided  hh  themselves  ; 
having  guns,  horses,  and  comfortable  clothing.  All  these  they 
obtained  from  the  Lower  Nez  Percos,  with  whom  they  were  in 
habits  of  frequent  traffic.  They  appeared  to  have  imbibed  from 
that  tribe  their  noncombative  principles,  being  mild  and  inoffen- 
sive in  their  manners.  Like  them,  also,  they  had  something  of 
religious  feelings ;  for  Captain  Bonneville  observed  that,  before 
eating,  they  washed  their  hands,  and  made  a  short  prayer ;  which 
he  understood  was  their  invariable  custom.  Froai  these  Indians, 
he  obtained  a  considerable  supply  of  fish,  a. id  an  excellent  and 
well-conditioned  horse,  to  replace  one  which  had  become  too  weak 
for  the  journey. 

The  travellers  now  moved  forward  with  renovated  spirits ; 
the  snow,  it  is  true,  lay  deeper  and  deeper  as  they  advanced,  but 
they  trudged  on  merrily,  considering  themselves  well  provided 
for  the  journey,  which  could  not  be  of  much  longer  duration. 

They  had  intended  to  proceed  up  the  banks  of  Gun  Ci'eek, 
a  stream  which  flows  into  Snake  River  from  the  west ;  but  were 
assured  by  the  natives  that  the  route  in  that  direction  was 
impracticable.  The  latter  advised  them  to  keep  along  Snake 
River,  where  they  would  not  be  impeded  by  the  snow.  T.aking 
one  of  the  Diggers  for  a  guide,  they  set  off  along  the  river,  and 
to  their  joy  soon  found  the  country  free  from  snow,  as  had  been 
predicted,  so  that  their  horses  once  more  had  Uie  benefit  of 
tolerable  pasturage.  Their  Bigger  proved  an  excellent  guide, 
trudging  cheerily  in  the  advance.  He  made  an  unsuccessful 
shot  or  two  at  a  deer  and  a  beaver ;  but  at  night  found  a  rabbit 


:.'^ 


.  '4J 


964 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


■i» 


hole,  whence  he  extracted  the  occupant,  upon  which,  with  the 
addition  of  a  fish  given  him  by  the  travellers,  he  made  a  hearty 
supper,  and  retired  to  rest,  filled  with  good  cheer  and  good- 
humor. 

The  next  day  the  travellers  came  to  where  the  hills  closed 
upon  the  river,  leaving  here  and  there  intervals  of  undulating 
meadow  land.  The  river  was  sheeted  with  iee,  broken  into  hills 
at  long  intervals.  The  Digger  kept  on  ahead  of  the  party,  cross- 
ing and  recrossing  the  river  in  pursuit  of  game,  until,  unluckily, 
encountering  a  brother  Digger,  he  stole  off  with  him,  without  the 
ceremony  of  leave-taking. 

Being  now  left  to  themselves,  they  proceeded  until  they  came 
to  some  Indian  huts,  the  inhabitants  of  which  spoke  a  language 
totally  different  from  any  they  had  yet  hoard.  One,  however, 
understood  the  Nez  Perce  language,  and  through  him  they  made 
inquiries  as  to  their  route.  These  Indians  were  extremely  kind 
and  honest,  and  furnished  them  with  a  small  quantity  of  meat ; 
but  none  of  them  could  be  induced  to  act  as  guides. 

Immediately  in  the  route  of  the  travellers  lay  a  high  moun- 
tain, which  they  ascended  with  some  difficulty.  The  prospect 
from  the  summit  was  grand  but  disheartening.  Dire«:t]y  before 
them  towered  the  loftiest  peaks  of  ImmahaU,  rising  far  higher 
than  the  elevated  ground  on  which  they  stood  :  on  the  other 
hand,  they  were  enabled  to  scan  the  course  of  the  river,  dashing 
along  through  deep  chasms,  between  rocks  and  precipices,  until 
lost  in  a  distant  wilderness  of  mountains,  which  closed  the  savage 
landscape. 

They  remained  for  a  long  time  contemplating,  with  perplexed 
and  anxious  eye,  this  wild  congregation  of  mountain  barriers, 
and  seeking  to  discover  some  practicable  passage.    Tlie  approach 


SNAKE   RIVER  MOUNTAIN. 


965 


li  moun- 
)rospect 
before 
higlier 
other 
ashing 
i,  until 
savage 


of  evening  obliged  them  to  give  up  the  task,  and  to  seek  some 
camping  ground  for  the  night.  Moving  briskly  forward,  and 
plunging  and  tossing  through  a  succession  of  deep  snow-drifts, 
they  at  length  reached  a  valley  known  among  trappers  as  the 
"  Grand  Kond,"  which  they  found  entirely  free  from  snow. 

This  is  a  beautiful  and  very  fertile  valley,  about  twenty  miles 
long  and  five  or  six  broad  ;  a  bright  cold  stream  called  the 
FourcJie  dc  Glace,  or  Ice  River,  runs  through  it.  Its  sheltered 
situation,  embosomed  in  mountains,  renders  it  good  pasturing 
ground  in  the  winter  time  ;  when  the  elk  come  down  to  it  in 
great  numbers,  driven  out  of  the  mountains  by  the  snow.  The 
Indians  then  resort  to  it  to  hunt.  They  likewise  come  to  it  in 
the  summer  time  to  dig  the  camash  root,  of  whicL  it  produces 
immense  quantities.  When  this  plant  is  in  blossom,  the  whole 
valley  is  tinted  by  its  blue  flowers,  and  looks  like  the  ocean, 
when  overcast  by  a  cloud. 

After  passing  a  night  in  this  valley,  the  travellers  in  the 
morning  scaled  the  neighboring  hills,  to  look  out  for  a  more  eli- 
gible route  than  that  upon  which  they  had  unluckily  fallen ;  and, 
a^tcr  much  reconnoitring,  determined  to  make  their  way  once 
more  to  the  river,  and  to  travel  upon  the  ice  when  the  banks 
should  prove  impassable. 

On  the  second  day  after  this  determination,  they  were  again 
upon  Snake  River,  but,  contrary  to  their  expectations,  it  was 
nearly  free  from  ice.  A  narrow  riband  ran  along  the  shore,  and 
sometimes  there  was  a  kind  of  bridge  across  the  stream,  formed 
of  old  ice  and  snow.  For  a  short  time,  they  jogged  along  the 
bank,  with  tolerable  facility,  but  at  length  came  to  where  the 
river  forced  its  way  into  the  heart  of  the  mountains,  winding 
between  tremendous  walls  of  basaltic  rock,  that  rose  perpendiou- 

12 


.  i : ; 


t 


S66 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


larly  from  the  water  edge,  frowning  in  bleak  and  gloomy  gran- 
deur. Here  difficulties  of  all  kinds  beset  their  path.  The  snow 
was  from  two  to  three  feet  deep,  but  soft  and  yielding,  so  that 
the  horses  had  no  foothold,  but  kept  plunging  forwar|j,  straining 
themselves  by  perpetual  eflforts.  Sometimes  the  crags  and  pro- 
montories forced  them  upon  the  narrow  riband  of  ice  that  bor- 
dered the  shore ;  sometimes  they  had  to  scramble  over  vast 
masses  of  rock  which  had  tumbled  from  the  impending  precipices ; 
sometimes  they  had  to  cross  the  stream  upon  the  hazardous 
bridges  of  ice  and  snow,  sinking  to  the  knee  at  every  step  ;  some- 
times they  had  to  scale  slippery  acclivities,  and  to  pass  along 
narrow  cornices,  glazed  with  ice  and  sleet,  a  shouldering  wall  of 
rock  on  one  side,  a  yawning  precipice  on  the  other,  where  a  sin- 
gle false  step  would  have  been  fatal.  In  a  lower  and  less  dan- 
gerous pass,  two  of  their  horses  actually  fell  into  the  river ;  one 
was  saved  with  much  difficulty,  but  the  boldness  of  the  shore 
prevented  their  rescuing  the  other,  and  he  was  swept  away  by  the 
rapid  current. 

In  this  way  they  struggled  forward,  manfully  braving  diffi- 
culties and  dangers,  until  they  came  to  where  the  bed  of  tho  river 
was  narrowed  to  a  mere  chasm,  with  perpendicular  walls  of  rock 
that  defied  all  further  progress.  Turning  their  faces  now  to  the 
mountain,  they  endeavored  to  cross  directly  over  it ;  but,  after 
clambering  nearly  to  the  summit,  found  their  path  closed  by  in- 
surmountable barriers. 

Nothing  now  remained  but  to  retrace  their  steps.  To  descend 
a  cragged  mountain,  however,  was  more  difficult  and  dangerous 
than  to  ascend  it.  They  had  to  lower  themselves,  cautiously  and 
slowly,  from  steep  to  steep  ;  and,  while  they  managed  with  diffi- 
culty to  maintain  their  own  footing,  to  aid  their  horses  by  bold- 


': 


loomy  gran- 
The  snow 
ing,  so  that 
iJ,  straining 
;8  and  pro- 
3e  that  bor- 
3  over  vast 
:  precipices ; 
)  hazardous 
step  ;  some- 
pass  along 
(ring  wall  of 
where  a  sin- 
d  less  dan- 
5  river ;  one 
)f  the  shore 
away  by  the 

raving  diffi- 
of  tli'i  river 
alls  of  rock 
now  to  the 
;  but,  after 
ilosed  bj  in- 

To  descend 
i  dangerous 
itiously  and 
id  with  diffi- 
ses  by  bold- 


A  MOUNTAIN   SCRAMBLE. 


967 


ing  on  firmly  to  the  rope  halters,  as  the  poor  animals  stumbled 
among  slippery  rocks,  or  slid  down  icy  declivities.  Thus,  after 
a  day  of  intense  cold,  and  severe  and  incessant  toil,  amidst  the 
wildest  of  scenery,  they  managed,  about  nightfall,  to  reach  the 
camping  ground,  from  which  they  had  started  in  the  morning, 
and  for  the  first  time  in  the  course  of  their  rugged  and  perilous 
expedition,  felt  their  hearts  quailing  under  their  multiplied  hard- 
ships. 

A  hearty  supper,  a  tranquillizing  pipe,  and  a  sound  night's 
sleep,  put  them  all  in  better  mood,  and  in  the  morning  they  held 
a  consultation  as  to  their  future  movements.  "About  four  miles 
behind,  they  had  remarked  a  small  ridge  of  mountains  approach- 
ing closely  to  the  river.  It  was  determined  to  scale  this  ridge, 
and  seek  a  passage  into  the  valley  which  must  lie  beyond.  Should 
they  fail  in  this,  but  one  alternative  remained.  To  kill  their 
horses,  dry  the  flesh  for  provisions,  make  boats  of  the  hides,  and, 
in  these,  commit  themselves  to  the  stream — a  measure  hazardous 
in  the  extreme. 

A  short  march  brought  them  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain, 
but  its  steep  and  cragged  sides  almost  discouraged  hope.  The 
only  chance  of  scaling  it  was  by  broken  masses  of  rock,  piled 
one  upon  another,  which  formed  a  succession  of  crags,  reaching 
nearly  to  the  summit.  Up  these  they  wrought  their  way  with 
indescribable  difiiculty  and  peril,  in  a  zigzag  course,  climbing 
from  rock  to  rock,  and  helping  their  horses  up  after  them ;  which 
scrambled  among  the  crags  like  mountain  goats  ;  now  and  then 
dislodging  some  huge  stone,  which,  the  moment  they  had  left  it, 
would  roll  down  the  mountain,  crashing  and  rebounding  with 
terrific  din.  It  was  some  time  after  dark  before  they  reached  a 
kind  of  platform  on  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  where  they 


l^i 


t  ■■: 


r 


m 


III 


*],• 


;  m 


S68 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


I    < 


•   \y 


could  venture  to  encamp.  The  winds,  which  swept  this  naked 
height,  had  whirled  all  the  snow  into  the  valley  beneath,  so  that 
the  horses  found  tolerable  winter  pasturage  on  the  dry  grass 
which  remained  exposed.  The  travellers,  though  hungry  in  the 
extreme,  were  fain  to  make  a  very  frugal  supper ;  for  they  saw 
their  journey  was  likely  to  be  prolonged  much  beyond  the  antici- 
pated term. 

In  fact,  on  the  following  day  they  discerned  that,  although 
already  at  a  great  elevation,  they  were  only  as  yet  upon  the 
shoulder  of  the  mountain.  It  proved  to  be  a  great  sierra,  or 
ridge,  of  immense  height,  running  parallel  to  the  course  of  the 
river,  swelling  by  degrees  to  lofty  peaks,  but  the  outline  gashed 
by  deep  and  precipitous  ravines.  This,  in  fact,  was  a  part  of  the 
chain  of  Blue  Mountains,  in  which  the  first  adventurers  to  Asto- 
ria experienced  such  hardships. 

We  will  not  pretend  to  accompany  the  travellers  step  by  step 
in  this  tremendous  mountain  scramble,  into  which  they  had  un- 
consciously betrayed  themselves.  Day  after  day  did  their  toil 
continue  ;  peak  after  peak  had  they  to  traverse,  struggling  with 
difficulties  and  hardships  known  only  to  the  mountain  trapper. 
As  their  course  lay  north,  they  had  to  ascend  the  southern  faces 
of  the  heights,  where  the  sun  had  melted  the  snow,  so  as  to  ren- 
der the  ascent  wet  and  slippery,  and  to  keep  both  men  and  horses 
continually  on  the  strain ;  while  on  the  northern  sides,  the  snow 
lay  in  such  heavy  masses,  that  it  was  necessary  to  beat  a  track, 
down  which  the  horses  might  be  led.  Every  now  and  then,  also, 
their  way  was  impeded  by  tall  and  numerous  pines,  some  of  which 
had  fallen,  and  lay  in  every  direction. 

In  the  midst  of  these  toils  and  hardships,  their  provisions 
gave  out.     For  three  days  they  were  without  food,  and  so  reduced 


THE   BLUE   MOUNTAINS. 


269 


this  naked 
ith,  so  that 
)  dry  grass 
ngry  in  the 
r  they  saw 
.  the  antici- 

,t,  although 
t  upon  the 
i  sierra,  or 
urse  of  the 
line  gashed 
part  of  the 
srs  to  Asto- 

tep  by  step 

ley  had  un- 

l  their  toil 

gling  with 

An  trapper. 

them  faces 

3  as  to  ren- 

and  horses 

s,  the  snow 

lat  a  track, 

then,  also, 

Qe  of  which 

provisions 
so  reduced 


that  they  could  scarcely  drag  themselves  along.  At  length  one  of 
the  mules,  being  about  to  give  out  from  fatigue  and  famine,  they 
hastened  to  dispatch  him.  Husbanding  this  miserable  supply, 
they  dried  the  flesh,  and  for  three  days  subsisted  upon  the  nutri- 
ment extracted  from  tiie  bones.  As  to  the  meat,  it  was  packed 
and  preserved  as  long  as  they  could  do  without  it,  not  know- 
ing how  long  they  might  remain  bewildered  in  these  desolate 
regions. 

One  of  the  men  was  now  dispatched  ahead,  to  reconnoitre  the 
country,  and  to  discover,  if  possible,  some  more  practicable  route. 
In  tlie  meantime,  the  rest  of  the  party  moved  on  slow!)-.  After  a 
lapse  of  three  days,  the  scout  rejoined  them.  He  informed  them 
that  Snake  River  ran  imniodiately  below  the  sierra  or  mountain- 
ous ridge,  upon  which  they  were  travelling ;  that  it  was  free  from 
precipices,  and  was  at  no  great  distance  from  them  in  a  direct 
line  ;  but  that  it  would  be  impossible  for  them  to  reach  it  with- 
out making  a  weary  circuit.  Their  only  course  would  be  to  cross 
the  mountain  ridge  to  the  left. 

Up  this  mountain,  thCTefore,  the  weary  travellers  directed 
their  steps ;  and  the  ascent,  in  their  present  weak  and  exhausted 
state,  was  one  of  the  severest  parts  of  this  most  painful  journey. 
For  two  days  were  they  toiling  slowly  from  cliff  to  cliff,  beating 
at  every  step  a  path  through  the  snow  for  their  faltering  horses. 
At  length  they  reached  the  summit,  where  the  snow  was  blown 
off;  but  in  descending  on  the  opposite  side,  they  were  often 
plunging  through  deep  drifts,  piled  in  the  hollows  and  ravines. 

Their  provisions  were  now  exhausted,  and  they  and  their 
horses  almost  ready  to  give  out  with  fatigue  and  hunger  ;  when 
one  afternoon,  just  as  the  sun  was  sinking  behind  a  blue  line  of 
distant  mountain,  they  came  to  the  brow  of  a  height  from  which 


i  I 


S70 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


!'■ 


fi    '■ 


■  j    i 

f'    ? 

■  •    ii 


i\ 


^ 


h 


they  beheld  the  smooth  valley  of  the  Iimaahah  stretched  out  in 
smiling  verdure  below  them. 

The  sight  inspired  iilinost  a  frenzy  of  delight.  Housed  to 
new  ardor,  they  forgot,  for  a  time,  their  fatigues,  and  hurried  down 
the  mountain,  dragging  their  jaded  horses  after  thorn,  and  some- 
times compelling  them  to  slide  a  distance  of  thirty  or  forty  feet 
at  a;  time.  At  length  they  reached  the  banks  of  the  Immahah. 
The  young  grass  was  just  beginning  to  sprout,  and  the  whole 
valley  wore  an  aspect  of  softness,  verdure,  and  repose,  heightened 
by  the  contrast  of  the  frightful  region  from  which  they  had  just 
descended.  To  add  to  their  joy,  they  observed  Indian  trails 
along  the  margin  of  the  stream,  and  other  signs,  which  gave  them 
reason  to  believe  that  there  was  an  encampment  of  the  Lower 
Nez  Perci'S  in  the  neighborhood,  as  it  was  within  the  accustomed 
range  of  that  pacific  and  hospitable  tribe. 

The  prospect  of  a  supply  of  food  stimulated  them  to  new 
exertion,  and  they  continued  on  as  fast  as  the  enfeebled  state  of 
themselves  and  their  steeds  would  permit.  At  length,  one  of  the 
men,  more  exhausted  than  the  rest,  t^ew  himself  upon  the  grass, 
and  declared  he  could  go  no  further.  It  was  in  vain  to  attempt 
to  rouse  him ;  his  spirit  had  given  out,  and  his  replies  only 
showed  the  dogged  apathy  of  despair.  His  companions,  therefore, 
encamped  on  the  spot,  kindled  a  blazing  fire,  and  searched  about 
for  roots  with  which  to  strengthen  and  revive  him.  They  all  then 
made  a  starveling  repast ;  but  gathering  round  the  fire,  talked 
over  past  dangers  and  troubles,  soothed  themselves  with  the  per- 
suasion that  all  were  now  at  an  end,  and  went  to  sleep  with  the 
comforting  hope  that  the  morrow  would  bring  them  into  plentiful 
quarters. 


t-- 


!bcd  out  in 


AN   INDIAN  CAVALIER. 


371 


Housed  to 
rried  down 

and  some- 
p  forty  feet 

Iiinnaliah. 

the  whole 
heiglitoned 
ly  had  just 
dian  trails 

gave  them 
the  Lower 
iccustomed 

3in  to  new 
led  state  of 
,  one  of  the 
1  the  grass, 
to  attempt 
eplies  only 
therefore, 
ched  about 
ley  all  then 
fire,  talked 
th  the  per- 
jp  with  the 
to  plentiful 


s 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 

Progress  in  the  valley. — An  Indian  covalier. — The  captnin  falls  into  a  lethar- 
gy.— A  Noz  Perc^  patriarch. — Hospitable  treatment. — The  bald  head.— 
Bargaining. — Value  of  an  old  plaid  cloak. — The  family  horse. — The  cost 
of  an  Indian  pi'eHent. 

A  TRANQUIL  night's  rest  had  sufficiently  restored  the  broken- 
down  traveller,  to  enable  him  to  resume  his  wayfaring,  and  all 
hands  set  forward  on  the  Indian  trail.  With  all  their  eagerness 
to  arrive  within  reach  of  succor,  such  was  their  feeble  and  ema- 
ciated condition,  that  they  advanced  but  slowly.  Nor  is  it  a 
matter  of  surprise  that  they  should  almost  have  lost  heart,  as 
well  as  strength.  It  was  now  (the  1 6th  of  February)  fifty-three 
days  that  they  had  been  travelling  in  the  midst  of  winter, 
exposed  to  all  kinds  of  privations  and  hardships :  and  for  the 
last  twenty  days,  they  had  been  entangled  in  the  wild  and  deso- 
late labyrinths  of  the  snowy  mountains ;  climbing  and  descending 
icy  precipices,  and  nearly  starved  with  cold  and  hunger. 

All  the  morning  they  continued  following  the  Indian  trail, 
without  seeing  a  human  being,  and  were  beginning  to  be  discour- 
aged, when,  about  noon,  they  discovered  a  horseman  at  a  distance. 
He  was  coming  directly  towards  them ;  but  on  discovering  them, 
suddenly  reined  up  his  steed,  came  to  a  halt,  and,  after  reconnoi- 
tring them  for  a  time  with  great  earnestness,  seemed  about  to 


f 


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m 


I 

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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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11.25 


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Hi  ^ 

■u  lii    122 

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Hiotographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WIST  MAIN  STRUT 

WEBSTH.N.Y.  MSSO 

(716)  •72-4503 


272 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


.  > 


H 


i 


make  a  cautious  retreat.  They  eagerly  made  signs  of  peace,  and 
endeavored,  with  the  utmost  anxiety,  to  induce  him  to  approach. 
He  remained  for  some  time  in  doubt;  but  at  length,  having 
satisfied  himself  that  they  were  not  enemies,  came  galloping  up 
to  them.  He  was  a  fine,  haughty-looking  savage,  fancifully  deco- 
rated, and  mounted  on  a  high-mettled  steed,  with  gaudy  trappings 
and  equipments.  It  was  evident  that  he  was  a  warrior  of  some  con- 
sequence among  his  tribe.  His  whole  deportment  had  something 
in  it  of  barbaric  dignity ;  he  felt,  perhaps,  his  temporary  superi- 
ority in  personal  array,  and  in  the  spirit  of  his  steed,  to  the  poor, 
ragged,  travel-worn  trappers,  and  their  half-starved  horses.  Ap- 
proaching them  with  an  air  of  protection,  he  gave  them  his  hand, 
and,  in  the  Nez  Perco  language,  invited  them  to  his  camp,  which 
was  only  a  feW  miles  distant ;  where  he  had  plenty  to  eat,  and 
plenty  of  horses,  and  would  cheerfully  share  his  good  things 
with  them. 

His  hospitable  invitation  was  joyfully  accepted :  he  lingered 
but  a  moment,  to  give  directions  by  which  they  might  find  his 
camp,  and  then,  wheeling  round,  and  giving  the  reins  to  his  met- 
tlesome steed,  was  soon  out  of  sight.  The  travellers  followed, 
with  gladdened  hearts,  but  at  a  snail's  pace ;  for  their  poor  horses 
could  scarcely  drag  one  leg  after  the  other.  Captain  Bonneville, 
however,  experienced  a  sudden  and  singular  change  of  feeling. 
Hitherto,  the  necessity  of  conducting  his  party,  and  of  providing 
against  every  emergency,  had  kept  his  mind  upon  the  stretch, 
and  his  whole  system  braced  and  excited.  In  no  one  instance  had 
he  flagged  in  spirit,  or  felt  disposed  to  succumb.  Now,  however, 
that  all  danger  was  over,  and  the  march  of  a  few  miles  would 
bring  them  to  repose  and  abundance,  his  energies  suddenly 
deserted  him ;    and  every   faculty,  mental  and  physical,  was 


NEZ   PERCE  HOSPITALITY. 


Q73 


totally  relaxed.  He  had  not  proceeded  two  miles  from  the  point 
where  he  had  had  the  interview  with  the  Nez  Perc6  chief,  when  he 
threw  himself  upon  the  earth,  without  the  power  or  will  to  move 
a  muscle,  or  exert  a  thought,  and  sank  almost  instantly  into  a 
profound  and  dreamless  sleep.  His  companions  again  came  to  a 
halt,  and  encamped  beside  him,  and  there  they  passed  the  night. 

The  next  morning,  Captain  Bonneville  awakened  from  his 
long  and  heavy  sleep,  much  refreshed ;  and  they  all  resumed 
their  creeping  progress.  They  had  not  been  long  on  the  march, 
when  eight  or  ten  of  the  Nez  Perce  tribe  came  galloping  to  meet 
them,  leading  fresh  horses  to  bear  them  to  their  camp.  Thus 
gallantly  mounted,  they  felt  new  life  infused  into  their  languid 
frames,  and  dashing  forward,  were  soon  at  the  lodges  of  the  Nez 
Perces.  Here  they  found  about  twelve  families  living  together, 
under  the  patriarchal  sway  of  an  ancient  and  venerable  chief. 
He  received  them  with  the  hospitality  of  the  golden  age,  and 
with  something  of  the  same  kind  of  fare ;  for,  while  he  opened 
his  arms  to  make  them  welcome,  the  only  repast  he  set  before 
them  consisted  of  roots.  They  could  have  wished  for  something 
more  hearty  and  substantial ;  but,  for  want  of  better,  made  a 
voracious  meal  on  these  humble  viands.  The  repast  being  over, 
the  best  pipe  was  lighted  and  sent  round :  and  this  was  a  most 
welcome  luxury,  having  lost  their  smoking  apparatus  twelve  days 
before,  among  the  mountains. 

While  they  were  thus  enjoying  themselves,  their  poor  horses 
were  led  to  the  best  pastures  in  the  neighborhood,  where  they 
were  turned  loose  to  revel  on  the  fresh  sprouting  grass ;  so  that 
they  had  better  fare  than  their  masters. 

Captain  Bonneville  soon  felt  himself  quite  at  home  among 
these  quiet,  inoffensive  people.     His  long  residence  among  their 


12* 


* 


JH 


;4. 


•74 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


>i 


i'  ■^'' 


i  'f 


f  ?i» 


1 1 

!■ 


cousins,  the  Upper  Nez  Perces,  had  made  him  conversant  with 
their  language,  modes  of  expression,  and  all  their  hahitudes.  He 
soon  found,  too,  that  he  was  well  known  among  them,  hy  report, 
at  least,  from  the  constant  interchange  of  visits  and  messages 
between  the  two  branches  of  the  tribe.  They  at  first  addressed 
him  by  his  name ;  giving  him  his  title  of  captain,  with  a  French 
accent :  but  they  soon  gave  him  a  title  of  their  own ;  which,  as 
usual  with  Indian  titles,  had  a  peculiar  signification.  In  the  case 
of  the  captain,  it  had  somewhat  of  a  whimsical  origin. 
•  As  he  sat  chatting  and  smoking  in  the  midst  of  them,  he 
would  occasionally  take  off  his  cap.  Whenever  he  did  so,  there 
was  a  sensation  in  the  surrounding  circle.  The  Indians  would 
half  rise  from  their  recumbent  posture,  and  gaze  upon  his  uncov- 
ered head,  with  their  usual  exclamation  of  astonishment.  The 
worthy  captain  was  completely  bald;  a  phenomenon  very  sur- 
prising in  their  eyes.  They  were  at  a  loss  to  know  whether  he 
had  been  scalped  in  battle,  or  enjoyed  a  natural  immunity  from 
that  belligerent  infliction.  In  a  little  whilri,  he  became  known 
among  them  by  an  Indian  name,  signifying  "the  bald  chief" 
"  A  soubriquet,"  observes  the  captain,  "  for  which  I  can  find  no 
parallel  in  history  since  the  days  of  '  Charles  the  Bald '  " 

Although  the  travellers  had  banqueted  on  roots,  and  been  re- 
galed with  tobacco  smoke,  yet,  their  stomachs  craved  more  gener- 
ous fare.  In  approaching  the  lodges  of  the  Nez  Perces,  they  had 
indulged  in  fond  anticipations  of  venison  and  dried  salmon ;  and 
dreams  of  the  kind  still  haunted  their  imaginations,  and  could 
not  be  conjured  down.  The  keen  appetites  of  mountain  trappers, 
quickened  by  a  fortnight's  fasting,  at  length  got  the  better  of  all 
scruples  of  pride,  and  they  fairly  begged  some  fish  or  flesh  from 
the  hospitable  savages.     The  latter,  however,  were  slow  to  break 


THE  OLD  PLAID  CLOAK. 


975 


he 


in  upon  their  winter  store,  which  was  very  limited ;  but  were 
ready  to  furnish  roots  in  abundance,  which  they  pronounced  ex- 
cellent food.  At  length,  Captain  Bonneville  thought  of  a  means 
of  attaining  the  much-coveted  gratification. 

He  had  about  him,  he  says,  a  trusty  plaid ;  an  old  and  valued 
travelling  companion  and  comforter ;  upon  which  the  rains  had 
descended,  and  the  snows  and  winds  beaten,  without  further  effect 
than  somewhat  to  tarnish  its  primitive  lustre.  This  coat  of  many 
colors  had  excited  the  admiration,  and  inflamed  the  covetousness 
of  both  warriors  and  squaws,  to  an  extravagant  degree.  An  idea 
now  occurred  to  Captain  Bonneville,  to  convert  this  rainbow  gar- 
ment into  the  savory  viands  so  much  desired.  There  was  a  mo- 
mentary struggle  in  his  mind,  between  old  associations  and  pro- 
jected indulgence ;  and  his  decision  in  favor  of  the  latter  was 
made,  he  says,  with  a  greater  promptness,  perhaps,  than  true  taste 
and  sentiment  might  have  required.  In  a  few  moments,  his  plaid 
cloak  was  cut  into  numerous  strips.  "  Of  these,"  continues  he, 
"  with  the  newly  developed  talent  of  a  man-milliner,  I  speedily 
constructed  turbans  a  la  Turque^  and  fanciful  head-gears  of  divers 
conformations.  These,  judiciously  distributed  among  such  of  the 
womenkind  as  seemed  of  most  consequence  and  interest  in  the 
eyes  of  the  patres  consaipti,  brought  us,  in  a  little  while,  abun- 
dance of  dried  salmon  and  deers'  hearts ;  on  which  we  made  a 
-sumptuous  supper.  Another,  and  a  more  satisfactory  smoke, 
succeeded  this  repast,  and  sweet  slumbers  answering  the  peaceful 
invocation  of  our  pipes,  wrapped  us  in  that  delicious  rest,  which 
is  only  won  by  toil  and  travail." 

As  to  Captain  Bonneville,  he  slept  in  the  lodge  of  the  vener- 
able patriarch,  who  had  evidently  conceived  a  most  disinterested 
affection  for  him ;  as  was  shown  on  the  following  morning.    The 


f 


!. 


^^ 


Ifi 


976 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


travellers,  invigorated  by  a  good  supper,  and  "  fresh  from  the 
bath  of  repose,"  were  about  to  resume  their  journey,  when  this 
affectionate  old  chief  took  the  captain  aside,  to  let  him  know  how 
much  he  loved  him.  As  a  proof  of  his  regard,  he  had  deter- 
mined to  give  him  a  fine  horse,  which  would  go  further  than 
words,  and  put  his  good-will  beyond  all  question.  So  saying,  he 
made  a  signal,  and  forthwith  a  beautiful  young  horse,  of  a  brown 
color,  was  led,  prancing  and  snorting,  to  *the  place.  Captain 
Bonneville  was  suitably  affected  by  this  mark  of  friendship ;  but 
his  experience  in  what  is  proverbially  called  "  Indian  giving," 
made  him  aware  that  a  parting  pledge  was  necessary  on  his  own 
part,  to  prove  that  his  friendship  was  reciprocated.  He  accord- 
ingly placed  a  handsome  rifle  in  the  hands  of  the  venerable  chief, 
whose  benevolent  heart  was  evidently  touched  and  gratified  by 
this  outward  and  visible  sign  of  amity. 

Having  now,  as  he  thought,  balanced  this  little  account  of 
friendship,  the  captain  was  about  to  shift  his  saddle  to  this  noble 
gift-horse,  when  the  affectionate  patriarch  plucked  him  by  the 
sleeve,  and  introduced  to  him  a  whimpering,  whining,  leathern- 
skinned  old  squaw,  that  might  have  passed  for  an  Egyptian 
mummy,  witliout  drying.  "  This,"  said  he,  "  is  my  wife  ;  she  is 
a  good  wife — I  love  her  very  much. — She  loves  the  horse — she 
loves  him  a  great  deal — she  will  cry  very  much  at  losing  him. — 
I  do  not  know  how  I  shall  comfort  her — and  that  makes  my 
heart  eery  sore." 

What  could  the  worthy  captain  do,  to  console  the  tender- 
hearted old  squaw,  and,  peradventure,  to  save  the  venerable  patri- 
arch from  a  curtain  lecture  ?  He  bethought  himself  of  a  pair  of 
ear-bobs :  it  was  true,  the  patriarch's  better-half  was  of  an  age 
and  appearance  that  seemed  to  put  personal  vanity  out  of  the 


THE  GIFT-HORSE. 


277 


question,  but  when  is  personal  vanity  extinct  ?  The  moment  he 
produced  the  glittering  ear-bobs,  the  whimpering  and  whining  of 
the  sempiternal  beldame  was  at  an  end.  She  eagerly  placed 
the  precious  baubles  in  her  ears,  and,  though  as  ugly  as  the  Witch 
of  Endor,  went  off  with  a  sideling  gait,  and  coquettish  air,  as 
though  she  had  been  a  perfect  Semiramis. 

The  captain  had  now  saddled  his  newly  acquired  steed,  and 
his  foot  was  in  the  stirrup,  when  the  affectionate  patriarch  again 
stepped  forward,  and  presented  to  him  a  young  Pierced-nose,  who 
had  a  peculiarly  sulky  look.  "  This,"  said  the  venerable  chief, 
"  is  my  son  :  he  is  very  good ;  a  great  horseman — he  always  took 
care  of  this  very  fine  horse — he  brought  him  up  from  a  colt,  and 
made  him  what  he  is. — He  is  very  fond  of  this  fine  horse — ^he 
loves  him  like  a  brother — his  heart  will  be  very  heavy  when  this 
fine  horse  leaves  the  camp." 

What  could  the  captain  do,  to  reward  the  youthful  hope  of 
this  venerable  pair,  and  comfort  him  for  the  loss  of  his  foster- 
brother,  the  horse  ?  He  bethought  him  of  a  hatchet,  which  might 
be  spared  from  his  slender  stores.  No  sooner  did  he  place  the 
implement  in  the  hands  of  young  hopeful,  than  his  countenance 
brightened  up,  and  he  went  off  rejoicing  in  his  hatchet,  to  the 
full  as  much  as  did  his  respectable  mother  in  her  ear-bobs. 

The  captain  was  now  in  the  saddle,  and  about  to  start,  when 
the  affectionate  old  patriarch  stepped  forward,  for  the  third  time, 
and,  while  he  laid  one  hand  gently  on  the  mane  of  the  horse, 
held  up  the  rifle  in  the  other.  "  This  rifle,"  said  he,  'ishall  be 
my  great  medicine.  I  will  hug  it  to  my  heart — I  will  always 
love  it,  for  the  sake  of  my  good  friend,  the  bald-headed  chief — 
But  a  rifie,  by  itself,  is  dumb — I  cannot  make  it  speak.  If  I  had 
a  little  powder  and  ball,  I  would  take  it  out  with  me,  and  would 


978 


BONNE  vriLLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


now  and  then  shoot  a  deer  ;  and  when  I  brought  the  meat  home 
to  my  hungry  family,  I  would  say — This  was  killed  by  the  rifle 
of  my  friend,  the  bald-headed  chief,  to  whom  I  gave  that  very 
fine  horse."     .     ,  •  ,j    .•:»"■     , 

>v  There  was  no  resisting  this  appeal:  the  captain,  forthwith, 
furnished  the  coveted  supply  of  powder  and  ball ;  but  at  the 
same  time,  put  spurs  to  his  very  fine  gift-horse,  and  the  first  trial 
of  his  speed  was  to  get  out  of  all  further  manifestation  of  friend- 
ship, on  the  part  of  the  affectionate  old  patriarch  and  his  insinu- 
ating family.  ,        -  .,'-*. 


:7f': 


'.I 


NEZ   PERCE   CAMP. 


■».  i."  •■ 


979 


t    '    * 

'/:V,' 

< 

'  l'  -'  *  .  '  ■ 

'  '.  ■  ''    .'  ■      ' 

* 

■■.' '  ,' 

■  V 

CHAPTER  XXXII. 

Nez  Perc^  camp. — A  chief  with  a  hard  name. — The  Big  Hearts  of  the  east.— 
Hospitable  treatment. — The  Indian  guides. — Mysterious  councils. — The 
loquacious  chief. — Indian  tomb. — Grand  Indian  reception. — An  Indian 
feast. — Town-criers. — Honesty  of  the  Nez  Percys. — The  captain's  attempt 
at  healing.  ■'.•',  .      " 


Following  the  course  of  the  Immahah,  Captain  Bonneville  and 
his  three  companions  soon  reached  the  vicinity  of  Snake  Bivcr. 
Their  route  now  lay  over  a  succession  of  steep  and  isolated  hills, 
with  profound  valleys.  On  the  second  day,  after  taking  leave  of 
the  affectionate  old  patriarch,  as  they  were  descending  into  one 
of  those  deep  and  abrupt  intervals,  they  descried  a  smoke,  and 
shortly  afterwards  came  in  sight  of  a  small  encampment  of  Nez 
Perces.  ' 

The  Indians,  when  they  ascertained  that  it  was  a  party  of 
white  men  approaching,  greeted  them  with  a  salute  of  firearms^ 
and  invited  them  to  encamp.  This  band  was  likewise  under  the 
sway  of  a  venerable  chief  named  Yo-mus-ro-y-e-cut ;  a  name 
which  we  shall  be  careful  not  to  inflict  oftener  than  is  necessary 
upon  the  reader.  This  ancient  and  hard-named  chieftain,  wel- 
comed Captain  Bonneville  to  his  camp  with  the  same  hospitality 
and  loving-kindness  that  he  had  experienced  from  his  predeces- 
sor.    He  told  the  captain  that  he  had  often  heard  of  the  Ameri- 


280 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


cans  and  their  generous  deeds,  and  that  his  buffalo  brethren  (the 
Upper  Nez  Pcrci's)  had  always  spoken  of  them  as  the  Big-hearted 
whites  of  the  East,  the  very  good  friends  of  the  Nez  Perc6s. 

Captain  Bonneville  felt  somewhat  uneasy  under  the  responsi- 
bility of  this  magnanimous  but  costly  appellation ;  and  began  to 
fear  ho  might  be  involved  in  a  second  interchange  of  pledges  of 
friendship.  Ho  hastened,  therefore,  to  let  the  old  chief  know  his 
poverty-stricken  state,  and  how  little  there  was  to  be  expected 
from  him. 
'  He  informed  him  that  he  and  his  comrades  had  long  resided 
among  the  Upper  Nez  Percys,  and  loved  them  so  much,  that  they 
had  thrown  their  arms  around  them,  and  now  held  them  close  to 
their  hearts.  That  he  had  received  such  good  accounts  from  the 
Upper  Nez  Perec's  of  their  cousins,  the  Lower  Nez  Perces,  that 
he  had  become  desirous  of  knowing  them  as  friends  and  brothers. 
That  he  and  his  companions  had  accordingly  loaded  a  mule  with 
presents  and  set  off  for  the  country  of  the  Lower  Nez  Perces  ; 
but,  unfortunately,  had  been  entrapped  for  many  days  among  the 
snowy  mountains ;  and  that  the  mule  with  all  the  presents  had 
fallen  into  Snake  River,  and  been  swept  away  by  the  rapid  cur- 
rent. That  instead,  therefore,  of  arriving  among  their  friends, 
the  Nez  Perces,  with  light  hearts  and  full  hands,  they  came 
naked,  hungry,  and  broken  down ;  and  instead  of  making  them 
presents,  must  depend  upon  them  even  for  food.  "  But,"  con- 
cluded he,  "  we  are  going  to  the  white  men's  fort  on  the  Wallah- 
Wallah,  and  will  soon  return  ;  and  then  we  will  meet  our  Nez 
Perce  friends  like  the  true  Big  Hearts  of  the  East." 

Whether  the  hint  thrown  out  in  the  latter  part  of  the  speech 
had  any  effect,  or  whether  the  old  chief  acted  from  the  hospita- 
ble feelings  which,  according  to  the  captain,  are  really  inherent 


SECRET  CONSULTATIONS. 


I  I 


m 


in  the  Noz  Pero6  tribe,  he  certainly  showed  no  disposition  to  re- 
lax his  friendship  on  learning  the  destitute  ciroumstances  of  his 
guests.  On  the  contrary,  he  urged  the  captain  to  remain  with 
them  until  the  following  day,  when  he  would  accompany  him  on 
his  journey,  and  make  him  acquainted  with  all  his  people.  In 
the  meantime,  he  would  have  a  colt  killed,  and  cut  up  for  travel- 
ling  provisions.  This,  he  carefully  explained,  was  intended  not 
as  an  article  of  traffic,  but  as  a  gift ;  for  he  saw  that  his  guests 
were  hungry  and  in  need  of  food. 

Captain  Bonneville  gladly  assented  to  this  hospitable  arrange- 
ment. The  carcass  of  the  colt  was  forthcoming  in  due  season, 
but  the  captain  insisted  that  one  half  of  it  should  be  set  apart 
for  the  jise  of  the  chieftain's  family. 

At  an  early  hour  of  the  following  morning,  the  little  party 
resumed  their  journey,  accompanied  by  the  old  chief  and  an  In- 
dian guide.  Their  route  was  over  a  rugged  and  broken  country ; 
where  the  hills  were  slippery  with  ice  and  snow.  Their  horses, 
too,  were  so  weak  and  jaded,  that  they  could  scarcely  climb  the 
steep  ascents,  or  maintain  their  foothold  on  the  frozen  declivities. 
Throughout  the  whole  of  the  journey,  the  old  chief  and  the  guide 
were  unremitting  in  their  good  offices,  and  continually  on  the 
alert  to  select  the  best  roads,  and  assist  them  through  all  diffi- 
culties. Indeed,  the  captain  and  Lis  comrades  had  to  be  depend- 
ent on  their  Indian  friends  for  almost  every  thing,  for  they  had 
lost  their  tobacco  and  pipes,  those  great  comforts  of  the  trapper, 
and  had  but  a  few  charges  of  powder  left,  which  it  was  necessary 
to  husband  for  the  purpose  of  lighting  their  fires. 

In  the  course  of  the  day  the  old  chief  had  several  private 
consultations  with  the  guide,  and  showed  evident  signs  of  being 
occupied  with  some  mysterious  matter  of  mighty  import.    What 


aes 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


it  was,  Captain  Bonneville  could  not  fathom,  nor  did  ho  make 
much  effort  to  do  so.  From  some  ca8ual  sentences  that  he  over- 
heard, he  perceived  that  it  was  Homething  from  which  the  old 
man  promised  himself  much  satisfaction,  and  to  which  he  attached 
a  little  vainglory,  but  which  he  wished  to  keep  a  secret ;  so  he 
suffered  him  to  spin  out  his  petty  plans  unmolested. 

In  the  evening  when  they  encamped,  the  old  chief  and  his 
privy  counsellor,  the  guide,  had  another  mysterious  colloquy, 
after  which  the  guide  mounted  his  horse  and  departed  on  some 
secret  mission,  while  the  chief  resumed  his  seat  at  the  fire,  and 
sat  humming  to  himself  in  a  pleasing  but  mystic  reverie. 

The  next  morning,  the  travellers  descended  into  the  valley  of 
the  Way-lee-way,  a  considerable  tributary  of  Snake  River,  Here 
they  met  the  guide  returning  from  his  secret  errand.  Another 
private  conference  was  held  between  him  and  the  old  managing 
chief,  who  now  seemed  more  inflated  than  ever  with  mystery  and 
self-importance.  Numerous  fresh  trails,  and  various  other  signs, 
persuaded  Captain  Bonneville  that  there  must  be  a  considerable 
village  of  Nez  Percys  in  the  neighborhood ;  but  as  his  worthy 
companion,  the  old  chief,  said  nothing  on  the  subject,  and  as  it 
appeared  to  be  in  some  way  connected  with  his  secret  operations, 
he  asked  no  questions,  but  patiently  awaited  the  development  of 
his  mystery. 

As  they  journeyed  on,  they  came  to  where  two  or  three 
Indians  were  bathing  in  a  small  stream.  The  good  old  chief 
immediately  came  to  a  halt,  and  had  a  long  conversation  with 
them,  in  the  course  of  which,  he  repeated  to  them  the  whole 
history  which  Captain  Bonneville  had  related  to  him.  .«In  fact, 
he  seems  to  have  been  a  very  sociable,  communicative  old  man ; 
by  no  means  afSicted  with  that  taciturnity  generally  charged 


A  WARRIOR'S   GRAVE. 


983 


upon  the  Indians.  On  the  contrary,  ho  was  fond  of  long  talks 
and  long  smokings,  and  evidently  was  proud  of  his  now  friend, 
the  bald-headed  cluMf,  and  took  a  pleasure  in  sounding  his  praises, 
and  setting  forth  the  power  and  glory  of  the  Big  Hearts  of  tho 
East. 

Having  disburdened  himself  of  every  thing  lie  had  to  reluto 
to  his  bathing  friends,  he  left  thorn  to  their  aquatic  disports,  and 
proceeded  onward  with  the  captain  and  his  companions.  As 
they  approached  tho  Way-lee-way,  however,  tho  communicative 
old  chief  met  with  another  and  a  very  different  occasion  to  exert 
his  colloquial  powers.  On  the  banks  of  the  river  stood  aa 
isolated  mound  covered  with  grass.  He  pointed  to  it  with  some 
emotion.  "The  big  heart  and  the  strong  arm,"  said  he,  "lie 
buried  beneath  that  sod." 

It  was,  in  fact,  tho  grave  of  one  of  his  friends ;  a  chosen  war- 
rior of  the  tribe ;  who  had  been  slain  on  this  spot  when  in  pursuit 
of  a  war  party  of  Shoshokoes,  who  had  stolen  the  horses  of  the 
village.  The  enemy  bore  off  his  scalp  as  a  trophy ;  but  his 
friends  found  his  body  in  this  lonely  place,  and  committed  it  to 
the  earth  with  ceremonials  characteristic  of  their  pious  and  rev- 
erential feelings.  They  gathered  round  the  grave  and  mourned ; 
the  warriors  were  silent  in  their  grief;  but  the  women  and  chil- 
dren bewailed  their  loss  with  loud  lamentations.  "For  three 
days,"  said  the  old  man,  "  we  performed  the  solemn  dances  for 
the  dead,  and  prayed  tho  Great  Spirit  that  our  brother  might  bo 
happy  in  the  land  of  brave  warriors  and  hunters.  Then  we 
killed  at  his  grave  fifteen  of  our  best  and  strongest  horses,  to 
serve  him  when  he  should  arrive  at  the  happy  hunting  grounds ; 
and  having  done  all  this,  we  returned  sorrowfully  to  our  homes." 

While  the  chief  was  still  talking,  an  Indian  scout  came  gal- 


il 


)' 


I   : 


>iffl 


'  ■■■) 


.Hi 


1 


it 


984 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


loping  up,  and,  presenting  him  with  a  powder-horn,  wheeled 
round,  and  was  speedily  out  of  sight.  The  eyes  of  the  old  chief 
now  brightened ;  and  all  his  self-importance  returned.  His  petty 
mystery  was  about  to  explode.  Turning  to  Captain  Bonneville, 
he  pointed  to  a  hill  hard  by,  and  informed  him,  that  behind  it 
was  a  village  governed  by  a  little  chief,  whom  he  had  notified  of 
the  approach  of  the  bald-headed  chief,  and  a  party  of  the  Big 
Hearts  of  the  East,  and  that  he  was  prepared  to  receive  them 
in  becoming  style.  As,  among  other  ceremonials,  he  intended  to 
salute  them  with  a  discharge  of  firearms,  he  had  sent  the  horn  of 
gunpowder  that  they  might  return  the  salute  in  a  manner  corre- 
spondent to  his  dignity. 

They  now  proceeded  on  until  they  doubled  the  point  of  the 
hill,  when  the  whole  population  of  the  village  broke  upon  their 
view,  drawn  out  in  the  most  imposing  style,  and  arrayed  in  all 
their  finery.  The  effect  of  the  whole  was  wild  and  fantastic, 
yet  singularly  striking.  In  the  front  rank  were  the  chiefs  and 
prinMpal  warriors,  glaringly  painted  and  decorated;  behind 
them  were  arranged  the  rest  of  the  people,  men,  women,  and 
children. 

Captain  Bonneville  and  his  party  advanced  slowly,  exchanging 
salutes  of  firearms.  When  arrived  within  a  respectful  distance, 
they  dismounted.  The  chiefs  then  came  forward  successively, 
according  to  their  respective  characters  and  consequence,  to  offer 
the  hand  of  good-fellowship ;  each  filing  off  when  he  had  shaken 
hands,  to  make  way  for  his  successor.  Those  in  the  next  rank  fol- 
lowed in  the  same  order,  and  so  on,  until  all  had  given  the  pledge 
of  friendship.  Daring  all  this  time,  the  chief,  according  to  cus- 
tom, took  his  stand  beside  tlie  guests.  If  any  of  his  people 
advanced  whom  he  judged  unworthy  of  the  friendship  or  confi- 


A  FEAST. 


S85 


dence  of  the  white  men,  he  motioned  them  off  by  a  wave  of  the 
hand,  and  they  would  submissively  walk  away.  When  Captain 
Bonneville  turned  upon  him  an  inquiring  look,  he  would  observe, 
"  he  was  a  bad  man,"  or  something  quite  as  concise,  and  there 
was  an  end  of  the  matter. 

Mats,  poles,  and  other  materials  were  now  brought,  and  a 
comfortable  lodge  was  soon  erected  for  the  strangers,  where  they 
were  kept  constantly  supplied  with  wood  and  water,  and  other 
necessaries ;  and  all  their  effects  were  placed  in  safe  keeping. 
Their  horses,  too,  were  unsaddled,  and  turned  loose  to  graze,  and 
a  guard  set  to  keep  watch  upon  them. 

All  this  being  adjusted,  they  were  conducted  to  the  main 
building  or  council  house  of  the  village,  where  an  ample  repast, 
OX'  rather  banquet,  was  spread,  which  seemed  to  realize  all  the 
gastronomical  dreams  that  had  tantalized  them  during  their  long 
starvation ;  for  here  they  beheld  not  merely  fish  and  roots  in 
abundance,  but  the  flesh  of  deer  and  elk,  and  the  choicest  pieces 
of  buffalo  meat.  It  is  needless  to  say  how  vigorously  they 
acquitted  themselves  on  this  occasion,  and  how  unnecessary  it 
was  for  their  hosts  to  practise  the  usual  cramming  principle  of 
Indian  hospitality. 

When  the  repast  was  over,  a  long  talk  ensued.  The  chief 
showed  the  same  curiosity  evinced  by  his  tribe  generally,  to 
obtain  information  concerning  the  United  States,  of  which  they 
knew  little  but  what  they  derived  through  their  cousins,  the 
Upper  Nez  Perccs ;  as  their  traffic  is  almost  exclusively  with  the 
British  traders  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  Captain  Bonne- 
ville did  his  best  to  set  forth  the  merits  of  his  nation,  and  the 
importance  of  their  friendship  to  the  red  men,  in  which  he  was 
ably  seconded  by  his  worthy  friend,  the  old  chief  with  the  hard 


■  i' 


^M 


986 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


I 


mil'  •'     / 


name,  who  did  all  that  he  could  to  glorify  the  Big  Hearts  of  the 
East. 

The  chief,  and  all  present,  listened  with  profound  attention, 
and  evidently  with  great  interest ;  nor  were  the  important  facts 
thus  set  forth,  confined  to  the  audience  in  the  lodge ;  for  sen- 
tence after  sentence  was  loudly  repeated  by  a  crier  for  the  benefit 
of  the  whole  village. 

This  custom  of  promulgating  every  thing  by  criers,  is  not 
confined  to  the  Nez  Perces,  but  prevails  among  many  other 
tribes.  It  has  its  advantage  where  there  are  no  gazettes  to 
publish  the  news  of  the  day,  or  to  report  the  proceedings  of 
important  meetings.  And  in  fact,  reports  of  this  kind,  viva  voce, 
made  in  the  hearing  of  all  parties,  and  liable  to  be  contradicted 
or  corrected  on  the  spot,  are  more  likely  to  convey  accurate 
information  to  the  public  mind,  than  those  circulated  through 
the  press.  The  office  of  crier  is  generally  filled  by  some  old 
man,  who  is  good  for  little  else.  A  village  has  generally  several 
of  these  walking  newspapers,  as  they  are  termed  by  the  whites, 
who  go  about  proclaiming  the  news  of  the  day,  giving  notice  of 
public  councils,  expeditions,  dances,  feasts,  and  other  ceremoni- 
als, and  advertising  any  thing  lost.  While  Captain  Bonneville 
remained  among  the  Nez  Perces,  if  a  glove,  handkerchief,  or  any 
thing  of  similar  value,  was  lost  or  mislaid,  it  was  carried  by  the 
finder  to  the  lodge  of  the  chief,  and  proclamation  was  made  by 
one  of  their  criers,  for  the  owner  to  come  and  claim  his  property. 

How  difficult  it  is  to  get  at  the  true  character  of  these  wan- 
dering tribes  of  the  wilderness  !  In  a  recent  work,  we  have  had 
to  speak  of  this  tribe  of  Indians  from  the  experience  of  other 
traders  who  had  casually  been  among  them,  and  who  represented 
them  as  selfish,  inhospitable,  exorbitant  in  their  dealings,  and 


THE  CAPTAIN  A  MEDICINE  MAN. 


287 


much  addicted  to  thieving  :*  Captain  Bonneville,  on  the  contrary, 
A^ho  resided  much  among  them,  and  had  repeated  opportunities 
of  ascertaining  their  real  character,  invariably  speaks  of  them  as 
kind  and  hospitable,  scrupulously  honest,  and  remarkable,  above 
all  other  Indians  that  he  had  met  with,  for  a  strong  feeling  of 
religion.  In  fact,  so  enthusiastic  is  he  in  their  praise,  that  he 
pronounces  them,  all  ignorant  and  barbarous  as  they  are  by  their 
condition,  one  of  the  purest-hearted  people  on  the  face  of  the 
earth. 

Some  cures  which  Captain  Bonneville  had  effected  in  simple 
cases,  among  the  Upper  Nez  Percys,  had  reached  the  ears  of 
their  cousins  here,  and  gained  for  him  the  reputation  of  a  great 
medicine  man.  He  had  not  been  long  in  the  village,  therefore, 
before  his  lodge  began  to  be  the  resort  of  the  sick  and  the  infirm. 
The  captain  felt  the  value  of  the  reputation  thus  accidentally 
and  cheaply  acquired,  and  endeavored  to  sustain  it.  As  he  had 
arrived  at  that  age  when  every  man  is,  experimentally,  something 
of  a  physician,  he  was  enabled  to  turn  to  advantage  the  little 
knowledge  in  the  healing  art  which  he  had  casually  picked  up ; 
and  was  sufficiently  successful  in  two  or  three  cases,  to  convince 
the  simple  Indians  that  report  had  not  exaggerated  his  medical 
talents.  The  only  patient  that  effectually  baffled  his  skill,  or 
rather  discouraged  any  attempt  at  relief,  was  an  antiquated  squaw 
with  a  churchyard  cough,  and  one  leg  in  the  grave ;  it  being 
shrunk  and  rendered  useless  by  a  rheumatic  affection.  This  was 
a  case  beyond  his  mark ;  however,  he  comforted  the  old  woman 
with  a  promise  that  he  would  endeavor  to  procure  something  to 
relieve  her,  at  the  fort  on  the  Wallah- Wallah,  and  would  bring 


.^'f 


*  Vide  Astoria,  chap.  lii. 


288 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


*> 


I 


»     I 
if 


f        i! 


'      I     I 


it  on  his  return  ;  with  which  assurance  her  hushand  was  so  well 
satisfied,  that  he  presented  the  captain  with  a  colt,  to  be  killed 
as  provisions  for  the  journey :  a  medical  fee  which  was  thankfully 
accepted. 

While  among  these  Indians,  Captain  Bonneville  unexpectedly 
found  an  owner  for  the  horse  which  he  had  purchased  from  a 
Root  Digger  at  the  Big  Wyer.  The  Indian  satisfactorily  proved 
-^^^  that  the  horse  had  been  stolen  from  him  some  time  previous,  by 

some  unknown  thief  "However,"  said  the  considerate  savage, 
"you  got  him  in  fair  trade — ^you  are  more  in  want  of  horses 
than  I  am  :  keep  him ;  he  is  yours — he  is  a  good  horse ;  use  him 
well." 

Thus,  in  the  continual  experience  of  acts  of  kindness  and 
generosity,  which  his  destitute  condition  did  not  allow  him  to 
reciprocate,  Captain  Bonneville  passed  some  short  time  among 
these  good  people,  more  and  more  impressed  with  the  general 
excellence  of  their  character. 


f    i 


SCENERY  OF  THE  WAY-LEE-WAY. 


389 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

Scenery  of  the  Way-lee-way. — A  substitute  for  tobacco. — Sublime  scenery  of 
Snake  River. — The  garrulous  old  chief  and  his  cousin. — A  Nez  Perc6 
meeting. — A  stolen  skin. — The  scapegoat  dog. — Mysterious  conferences. 
— The  little  chief. — His  hospitality. — The  captain's  account  of  the  United 
States. — His  healing  skill. 


In  resuming  his  journey,  Captain  Bonneville  was  conducted  by 
the  same  Nez  Perce  guide,  whose  knowledge  of  the  country 
was  important  in  choosing  the  routes  and  resting  places.  He 
also  continued  to  be  accompanied  by  the  worthy  old  chief  with 
the  hard  name,  who  seemed  bent  upon  doing  the  honors  of 
the  country,  and  introducing  him  to  every  branch  of  his  tribe. 
The  Way-lee-way,  down  the  banks  of  which  Captain  Bonneville 
and  his  companions  were  now  travelling,  is  a  considerable  stream 
winding  through  a  succession  of  bold  and  beautiful  scenes. 
Sometimes  the  landscape  towered  into  bold  and  mountainous 
heights  that  partook  of  sublimity ;  at  other  times,  it  stretched 
along  the  water  side  in  fresh  smiling  meadows,  and  graceful 
undulating  valleys. 

Frequently  in  their  route  they  encountered  small  parties  of 
the  Nez  Perces,  with  whom  they  invariably  stopped  to  shake 
hands;  and  who,  generally,  evinced  great  curiosity  concerning 
them  and  their  adventures  ;  a  curiosity  which  never  failed  to  be 
thoroughly  satisfied  by  the  replies  of  the  worthy  Yo-mus-ro-y- 

13 


9fM) 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


ii  il 


e-cut,  who  kindly  took  upon  himself  to  be  spokesman  of  the 
party. 

The  incessant  smoking  of  pipes  incident  to  the  long  talks  of 
this  excellent,  but  somewhat  garrulous  old  chief,  at  length 
exhausted  all  his  stock  of  tobacco,  so  that  he  had  no  longer  a 
whiff  with  which  to  regale  his  white  companions.  In  this  emer- 
gency, he  cut  up  the  stem  of  his  pipe  into  fine  shavings,  which 
he  mixed  with  certain  herbs,  and  thus  manufactured  a  temporary 
succedaneum,  to  enable  him  to  accompany  his  long  collo(iuies  and 
harangues  with  the  customary  fragrant  cloud. 

If  the  scenery  of  the  Way-lee-way  had  charmed  the  travellers 
with  its  mingled  amenity  and  grandeur,  that  which  broke  upon 
them  on  once  more  reaching  Snake  River,  filled  them  with 
admiration  and  astonishment.  At  times,  the  river  was  overhung 
by  dark  and  stupendous  rocks,  rising  like  gigantic  walls  and 
battlements ;  these  would  be  rent  by  wide  and  yawning  chasms, 
that  seemed  to  speak  of  past  convulsions  of  nature.  Sometimes 
the  river  was  of  a  glassy  smoothness  and  placidity ;  at  other 
times  it  roared  along  in  impetuous  rapids  and  foaming  cascades. 
Here,  the  rocks  were  piled  in  the  most  fantastic  crags  and  pre- 
cipices ;  and  in  another  place,  they  were  succeeded  by  delightful 
valleys  carpeted  with  green-sward.  The  whole  of  this  wild  and 
varied  scenery  was  dominated  by  immense  mountains  rearing 
their  distant  peaks  into  the  clouds.  "  The  grandeur  and  origi- 
nality of  the  views,  presented  on  every  side,"  says  Captain  Bon- 
neville, "  beggar  both  the  pencil  and  the  pen.  Nothing  we  had 
ever  gazed  upon  in  any  other  region  could  for  a  moment  compare 
in  wild  majesty  and  impressive  sternness,  with  the  series  of 
scenes  which  here  at  every  turn  astonished  our  senses,  and  filled 
us  with  awe  and  delight." 


SCENERY  OF  SNAKE   RIVER. 


291 


Indeed,  from  all  that  we  can  gather  from  the  journal  before 
us,  and  the  accounts  of  other  travellers,  who  passed  through 
these  regions  in  the  memorable  enterprise  of  Astoria,  we  are  in- 
clined to  think  that  Snake  River  must  be  one  of  the  most  remarka- 
ble for  varied  and  striking  scenery  of  all  the  rivers  of  this  conti- 
nent. From  its  head  waters  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  to  its 
junction  with  the  Columbia,  its  windings  are  upwards  of  six  hun- 
dred miles  through  every  variety  of  landscape.  Rising  in  a 
volcanic  region,  amidst  extinguished  craters,  and  mountains  awful 
with  the  traces  of  apcient  fires,  it  makes  its  way  through  great 
plains  of  lava  and  sandy  deserts,  penetrates  vast  sierras  or  moun- 
tainous chains,  broken  into  romantic  and  often  frightful  precipices, 
and  crowned  with  eternal  snows ;  and  at  other  times,  careers 
through  green  and  smiling  meadows,  and  wide  landscapes  of 
Italian  grace  and  beauty.  Wildness  and  sublimity,  however,  ap- 
pear to  be  its  prevailing  characteristics. 

Captain  Bonneville  and  his  companions  had  pursued  their 
journey  a  considerable  distance  down  the  course  of  Snake  River, 
when  the  old  chief  halted  on  the  bank,  and  dismounting,  recom- 
mended that  they  should  turn  their  horses  loose  to  graze,  while 
he  summoned  a  cousin  of  his  from  a  group  of  lodges  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  stream.  His  summons  was  quickly  answered. 
An  Indian,  of  an  active,  elastic  form,  leaped  into  a  light  canoe  of 
cotton-wood,  and  vigorously  plying  the  paddle,  soon  shot  across 
the  river.  Bounding  on  shore,  he  advanced  with  a  buoyant  air 
and  frank  demeanor,  and  gave  his  right  hand  to  each  of  the  party 
in  turn.  The  old  chief,  whose  hard  name  we  forbear  to  repeat, 
now  presented  Captain  Bonneville,  in  form,  to  his  cousin,  whose 
name,  we  regret  to  say,  was  no  less  hard,  being  nothing  less  than 
Hay-she-in-cow-cow.     The  latter  evinced  the  usual  curiosity  to 


3  m 


S99 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


i\  w 


I   J  ' 


know  all  about  the  strangers,  whence  they  came,  whither  they 
were  going,  the  object  of  their  journey,  and  the  adventures  they 
had  experienced.  All  these,  of  course,  were  amply  and  eloquently 
set  forth  by  the  communicative  old  chief  To  all  his  grandilo- 
quent account  of  the  bald-headed  chief  and  his  countrymen,  the 
Big  Hearts  of  the  East,  his  cousin  listened  with  great  attention, 
and  replied  in  the  customary  style  of  Indian  welcome.  He  then 
desired  the  party  to  await  his  return,  and,  springing  into  his 
canoe,  darted  across  the  river.  In  a  little  while  he  returned, 
bringing  a  most  welcome  supply  of  tobacco^  and  a  small  stock  of 
provisions  for  the  road,  declaring  his  intention  of  accompanying 
the  party.  Having  no  horse,  he  mounted  behind  one  of  the  men, 
observing  that  he  should  procure  a  steed  for  himself  on  the  fol- 
lowing day. 

They  all  now  jogged  on  very  sociably  and  cheerily  together. 
Not  many  miles  beyond,  they  met  others  of  the  tribe,  among 
whom  was  one,  whom  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  comrades  had 
known  during  their  residence  among  the  Upper  Nez  Perces,  and 
who  welcomed  them  with  open  arms.  In  this  neighborhood  was 
the  home  of  their  guide,  who  took  leave  of  them  with  a  profusion 
of  good  wishes  for  their  safety  and  happiness.  That  night  they 
put  up  in  the  hut  of  a  Nez  Perce,  where  they  were  visited  by  seve- 
ral warriors  from  the  other  side  of  the  river,  friends  of  the  old 
chief  and  his  cousin,  who  came  to  have  a  talk  and  a  smoke  with 
the  white  men.  The  heart  of  the  good  old  chief  was  overflowing 
with  good-will  at  thus  being  surrounded  by  his  new  and  old 
friends,  and  he  talked  with  more  spirit  and  vivacity  than  ever. 
The  evening  passed  away  in  perfect  harmony  and  good-humor, 
and  it  was  not  until  a  late  hour  that  the  visitors  took  their  leave 
and  recrossed  the  river. 


THE  SCAPEGOAT  DOG. 


a93 


After  this  constant  picture  of  worth  and  virtue  on  the  part  of 
the  Nez  Perce  tribo,  we  grieve  to  have  to  record  a  circumstance 
calculated  to  throw  a  temporary  shade  upon  the  name.  In  the 
course  of  the  social  and  harmonious  evening  just  mentioned,  one 
of  the  captain's  men,  who  happened  to  be  something  of  a  virtuoso 
in  his  way,  and  fond  of  collecting  curiosities,  produced  a  small 
skin,  a  great  rarity  in  the  eyes  of  men  conversant  in  peltries.  It 
attracted  much  attention  among  the  visitors  from  beyond  the 
river,  who  passed  it  from  one  to  the  other,  examined  it  with  looks 
of  lively  admiration,  and  pronounced  it  a  great  medicine. 

In  the  morning,  when  the  captain  and  his  party  were  about  to 
set  off,  the  precious  skin  was  missing.  Search  was  made  for  it  in 
the  hut,  but  it  was  nowhere  to  be  found ;  and  it  was  strongly  sus- 
pected that  it  had  been  purloined  by  some  of  the  connoisseurs 
from  the  other  side  of  the  river. 

The  old  chief  and  his  cousin  were  indignant  at  the  supposed 
delinquency  of  their  friends  across  the  water,  and  called  out  for 
them  to  come  over  and  answer  for  their  shameful  conduct.  The 
others  answered  to  the  call  with  all  the  promptitude  of  perfect 
innocence,  and  spurned  at  the  idea  of  their  being  capable  of  such 
outrage  upon  any  of  the  Big-hearted  nation.  All  were  at  a  loss 
on  whom  to  fix  the  crime  of  abstracting  the  invaluable  skin,  when 
by  chance  the  eyes  of  the  worthies  from  beyond  the  water  fell 
upon  an  unhappy  cur,  belonging  to  the  owner  of  the  hut.  He 
was  a  gallows-looking  dog,  but  not  more  so  than  most  Indian 
dogs,  who,  take  them  in  the  mass,  are  little  better  than  a  genera- 
tion of  vipers.  Be  that  as  it  may,  he  was  instantly  accused  of 
having  devoured  the  skin  in  question.  A  dog  accused  is  gene- 
rally a  dog  condemned  ;  and  a  dog  condemned  is  generally  a  dog 
executed.     So  was  it  in  the  present  instance.     The  unfortunate 


i 


f 

iHI 

■ 

: 

II 

1 

1 

, 

! 

'■ 

ffll> 

w 

fl 

i'il 


i'i 


294 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


cur  was  arraigned  ;  his  thievish  looks  substantiated  his  guilt,  and 
he  was  condemned  by  his  judges  from  across  the  river  to  be 
hanged.  In  vain  the  Indians  of  the  hut,  with  whom  he  was  a 
great  favorite,  interceded  in  his  behalf  In  vain  Captain  Bonne- 
ville and  his  comrades  petitioned  that  his  life  might  be  spared. 
His  judges  were  inexorable.  He  was  doubly  guilty:  first,  in 
having  robbed  their  good  friends,  the  Big  Hearts  of  the  East ; 
secondly,  in  having  brought  a  doubt  on  the  honor  of  the  Nez 
Perc6  tribe.  He  was,  accordingly,  swung  aloft,  and  pelted  with 
stones  to  make  his  death  more  certain.  The  sentence  of  the 
judges  being  thoroughly  executed,  a  post  mortem  examination  of 
the  body  of.  the  dog  was  held,  to  establish  his  delinquency  beyond 
all  doubt,  and  to  leave  the  Nez  Perces  without  a  shadow  of  sus- 
picion. Great  interest,  of  course,  was  manifested  by  all  present, 
during  this  operation.  The  body  of  the  dog  was  opened,  the  in- 
testines rigorously  scrutinized,  but,  to  the  horror  of  all  concerned, 
not  a  particle  of  the  skin  was  to  be  found — the  dog  had  been  un- 
justly executed ! 

A  great  clamor  now  ensued,  but  the  most  clamorous  was  the 
party  from  across  the  river,  whose  jealousy  of  their  good  name 
now  prompted  them  to  the  most  vociferous  vindications  of  their 
innocence.  It  was  with  the  utmost  difficulty  that  the  captain 
and  his  comrades  could  calm  their  lively  sensibilities,  by  account- 
ing for  the  disappearance  of  the  skin  in  a  dozen  diflferent  ways, 
until  all  idea  of  its  having  been  stolen  was  entirely  out  of  the 
question. 

The  meeting  now  broke  up.  The  warriors  returned  across 
the  river,  the  captain  and  his  comrades  proceeded  on  their  jour- 
ney ;  but  the  spirits  of  the  communicative  old  chief,  Yo-mus-ro- 
y-e-cut,  were  for  a  time  completely  dampened,  and  he  evinced 


O-PUSII-Y-E-CUT. 


395 


great  inortification  at  what  had  just  occurred.  He  rode  on  in 
silence,  except,  that  now  and  then  he  would  give  way  to  a  burst 
of  indignation,  and  exclaim,  with  a  shako  of  the  head  and  a  toss 
of  the  hand  toward  the  opposite  shore^'*  bad  men,  very  bad  men 
across  the  river  ;"  to  each  of  which  brief  exclamations,  his  worthy 
cousin,  Hay-shein-cow-cow,  would  respond  by  a  deep  guttural 
sound  of  acquiescence,  equivalent  to  an  amen. 

After  some  time,  the  countenance  of  the  old  chief  again 
cleared  up,  and  he  fell  into  repeated  conferences,  in  an  under 
tone,  with  his  cousin,  which  ended  in  the  departure  of  the  latter, 
who,  applying  the  lash  to  his  horse,  dashed  forward  and  was  soon 
out  of  sight.  In  fact,  they  were  drawing  near  to  the  village  of 
another  chief,  likewise  distinguished  by  an  appellation  of  some 
longitude,  0-push-y-e-cut ;  but  commonly  known  as  the  great 
chief  The  cousin  had  been  sent  ahead  to  give  notice  of  their 
approach  ;  a  herald  appeared  as  before,  bearing  a  powder-horn,  to 
enable  them  to  respond  to  the  intended  salute.  A  scene  ensued, 
on  their  approach  to  the  village,  similar  to  that  which  had  oc- 
curred at  the  village  of  the  little  chief  The  whole  population 
appeared  in  the  field,  drawn  up  in  lines,  arrayed  with  the  cus- 
tomary regard  to  rank  and  dignity.  Then  came  on  the  firing  of 
salutes,  and  the  shaking  of  hands,  in  which  last  ceremonial  every 
individual,  man,  woman,  and  child,  participated  ;  for  the  Indians 
have  an  idea  that  it  is  as  indispensable  an  overture  of  friendship 
among  the  whites  as  smoking  of  the  pipe  is  among  the  red  men. 
The  travellers  were  next  ushered  to  the  banquet,  where  all  the 
choicest  viands  that  the  village  could  furnish,  were  served  up  in 
rich  profusion.  They  were  afterwards  entertained  by  feats  of 
agility  and  horseraces  ;  indeed,  their  visit  to  the  village  seemed 
the  signal  for  complete  festivity.     In  the  meantime,  a  skin  lodge 


996 


BONNEVILLK'S  ADVENTURES, 


had  been  spread  for  their  nccoininodution,  their  horHos  and  bag* 
gage  were  taken  care  of,  and  wood  and  water  aupplicd  in  abun* 
dance.  At  night,  therefore,  they  retired  to  their  quarters,  to 
enjoy,  as  they  supposed,  the  repose  of  which  they  stood  in  need. 
No  such  thing,  however,  was  in  store  for  them.  A  crowd  of 
visitors  awaited  their  appearance,  all  eager  for  a  smoke  and  a  talk. 
The  pipe  was  immediately  lighted,  and  constantly  replenished 
and  kept  alive  until  the  night  was  far  advanced.  As  usual,  the 
utmost  eagerness  was  evinced  by  the  guests  to  learn  every  thing 
within  the  scope  of  their  comprehension  respecting  the  Ameri- 
cans, for  whom  they  professed  the  most  fraternal  regard.  The 
captain,  in  his  replies,  made  use  of  familiar  illustrations,  calcu- 
lated to  strike  their  minds,  and  impress  them  with  such  an  idea 
of  the  might  of  his  nation,  as  would  induce  them  to  treat  with 
kindness  and  respect  all  stragglers  that  might  fall  in  their  path. 
To  their  inquiries  as  to  the  numbers  of  the  people  of  the  United 
States,  he  assured  them  that  they  were  as  countless  as  the  blades 
of  grass  in  the  prairies,  and  that,  great  as  Snake  River  was,  if 
they  were  all  encamped  upon  its  banks,  they  would  drink  it  dry 
in  a  single  day.  To  these  and  similar  statistics,  they  listened 
with  profound  attention,  and  apparently,  implicit  belief.  It  was, 
indeed,  a  striking  scene  :  the  captain,  with  his  hunter's  dress  and 
bald  head  in  the  midst,  holding  forth,  and  his  wild  auditors  seated 
around  like  so  many  statues,  the  fire  lighting  up  their  painted 
faces  and  muscular  figures,  all  fixed  and  motionless,  excepting 
when  the  pipe  was  passed,  a  question  propounded,  or  a  startling 
fact  in  statistics  received  with  a  movement  of  surprise  and  a  half 
suppressed  ejaculation  <     wonder  and  delight. 

The  fame  of  the  captain  as  a  healer  of  diseases,  had  accom- 
panied him  to  this  village,  and  the  great  chief,  0-push-y-e-cut, 


I  I 


THE  CHIEFS   DAUOHTBR. 


accom- 
-y-e-cut, 


now  entreated  him  to  exert  his  Bkill  on  hia  dangtiter,  who  had 
been  for  three  dayn  racked  with  pains,  for  which  the  Piorced-nose 
doctors  could  devise  no  alleviation.  The  captain  found  her  ex- 
tended on  a  pallet  of  mats  in  excruciating  pain.  Her  father 
manifested  the  strongest  paternal  affection  for  her,  and  assured 
the  captain  that  if  ho  would  but  cure  her,  he  would  place 
the  Americans  near  his  heart.  The  worthy  captain  needed  no 
Huch  inducement.  His  kind  heart  was  already  touched  by  the 
sufferings  of  the  poor  girl,  and  his  sympathies  quickened  by  her 
appearance  ;  for  she  was  but  about  sixteen  years  of  age,  and  un- 
commonly beautiful  in  form  and  feature.  The  only  difficulty 
with  the  captain  was,  that  he  knew  nothing  of  her  malady,  and 
that  his  medical  science  was  of  the  most  haphazard  kind.  After 
considering  and  cogitating  for  some  time,  as  a  man  is  apt  to  do 
when  in  a  maze  of  vague  ideas,  he  made  a  desperate  dash  at  a 
remedy.  By  his  directions,  the  girl  was  placed  in  a  sort  of  rude 
vapor  bath,  much  used  by  the  Nez  Percys,  where  she  was  kept 
until  near  fainting.  He  then  gave  her  a  dose  of  gunpowder  dis- 
solved in  cold  water,  and  ordered  her  to  be  wrapped  in  buffalo 
robes  and  put  to  sleep  under  a  load  of  furs  and  blankets.  The 
remedy  succeeded :  the  next  morning  she  was  free  from  pain, 
though  extremely  languid  ;  whereupon,  the  captain  prescribed  for 
her  a  bowl  of  colt's  head  broth,  and  that  she  should  be  kept  for 
a  time  on  simple  diet. 

The  great  chief  was  unbounded  in  his  expressions  of  gratitude 
for  the  recovery  of  his  daughter.  He  would  fain  have  detained 
the  captain  a  long  time  as  his  guest,  but  the  time  for  departure 
liad  arrived.  When  the  captain's  horse  was  brought  for  him  to 
mount,  the  chief  declared  that  the  steed  was  not  worthy  of  him, 

and  sent  for  one  of  his  best  horses,  which  he  presented  in  its 

13* 


>>i 


1'     t 


t' 


\m , 


.    •( 


298 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


stead  ;  declaring  that  it  made  his  heart  glad  to  see  his  friend  so 
well  mounted.  He  then  appointed  a  young  Nez  Perc6  to  accom- 
pany his  guests  to  the  next  village,  and  "  to  carry  his  talk  "  con- 
cerning them ;  and  the  two  parties  separated  with  mutual  expres- 
sions of  kindness  and  feelings  of  good-will. 

The  vapor  bath  of  which  we  have  made  mention  is  in  frequent 
use  among  the  Nez  Perce,  tribe,  chiefly  for  cleanliness.  Their 
sweating-houses,  as  they  call  them,  are  small  and  close  lodges, 
and  the  vapor  is  produced  by  water  poured  slowly  upon  red-hot 
stones. 

On  passing  the  limits  of  0-push-y-e-cut's  domains,  the  travel- 
lers left  the  elevated  table-lands,  and  all  the  wild  and  romantic 
scenery  which  has  just  been  described.  They  now  traversed  a 
gently  undulating  country,  of  such  fertility  that  it  excited  the 
rapturous  admiration  of  two  of  the  captain's  followers,  a  Ken- 
tuckian  and  a  native  of  Ohio.  They  declared  that  it  surpassed 
any  land  that  they  had  ever  seen,  and  often  exclaimed,  what  a 
delight  it  would  be  just  to  run  a  plough  through  such  a  rich  and 
teemin;;  soil,  and  see  it  open  its  bountiful  promise  before  the  share. 

Another  halt  and  sojourn  of  a  night  was  made  at  the  vil- 
lage of  a  chief  named  He-mim-el-pilp,  where  similar  ceremonies 
were  observed  and  hospitality  experienced,  as  at  the  preceding 
villages.  They  now  pursued  a  west-southwest  course  through  a 
beautiful  and  fertile  region,  better  wooded  than  most  of  the  tracts 
through  which  they  had  passed.  In  their  progress,  they  met 
with  several  bands  of  Nez  Percys,  by  whom  they  were  invariably 
treated  with  the  utmost  kindness.  Within  seven  days  after 
leaving  the  domain  of  He-mim-el-pilp,  they  struck  the  Columbia 
River  at  Fort  Wallah- Wallah,  where  they  arrived  on  the  4th  of 
March,  1834. 


FORT   WALLAH-W ALLAH. 


399 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

Fort  Wallah- Wallah — its  commander. — Indians  in  its  neighborhood. — Exer- 
tions of  Mr.  Pambrune  for  their  improvement. — Religion. — Code  of  laws. 
— Range  of  the  Lower  Nez  Percys. — Camash,  and  other  roots. — Nez  Percd 
horses. — Preparations  for  departure. — Refusal  of  supplies. — Departure. — 
A  laggard  and  glutton. 


Fort  WaUah-Wallah  is  a  trading  post  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  situated  just  above  the  mouth  of  the  river  of  the  same 
name,  and  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Columbia.  It  is  built  of  drift- 
wood, and  calculated  merely  for  defence  against  any  attack  of  the 
natives.  At  the  time  of  Captain  Bonneville's  arrival,  the  whole 
garrison  mustered  but  six  or  eight  men  ;  and  the  post  was  under 
the  superintendence  of  Mr.  Pambrune,  an  agent  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company. 

The  great  post  and  fort  of  the  company,  forming  the  empo- 
rium of  its  trade  on  the  Pacific,  is  Fort  Vancouver  ;  situated  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  Columbia,  about  sixty  miles  from  the  sea, 
and  just  above  the  mouth  of  the  Wallamut.  To  this  point,  the 
company  removed  its  establishment  from  Astoria,  in  1821,  after 
its  coalition  with  the  Northwest  Company. 

Captain  Bonneville  and  his  comrades  experienced  a  polite 
recejjtion  from  Mr.  Pambrune,  the  superintendent :  for,  however 
hostile  the  members  of  the  British  Company  may  be  to  the  en- 


11 


'!! 


m 


I 


1^ 

m 


300 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


terprises  of  American  traders,  they  have  always  manifested  great 
courtesy  and  hospitality  to  the  traders  themselves. 

Fort  Wallah- Wallah  is  surrounded  by  the  tribe  of  the  same 
name,  as  well  as  by  the  Skynses,  and  the  Nez  Perces ;  who  bring 
to  it  the  furs  and  peltries  collected  in  their  hunting  expeditions. 
The  Wallah-Wallahs  are  a  degenerate,  worn-out  tribe.  The  Nez 
Percys  are  the  most  numerous  and  tractable  of  the  three  tribes 
just  mentioned.  Mr.  Pambrune  informed  Captain  Bonneville, 
that  he  had  been  at  some  pains  to  introduce  the  Christian  reli- 
gion, in  the  Roman  Catholic  form,  among  them,  where  it  had  evi- 
dently taken  root ;  but  had  become  altered  and  modified,  to  suit 
their  peculiar  habits  of  thought,  and  motives  of  action ;  retain- 
ing, however,  the  principal  points  of  faith,  and  its  entire  precepts 
of  morality.  The  same  gentleman  had  given  them  a  code  of  laws, 
to  which  they  conformed  with  scrupulous  fidelity.  Polygamy, 
which  once  prevailed  among  them  to  a  great  extent,  was  now 
rarely  indulged.  All  the  crimes  denounced  by  the  Christian 
faith,  met  with  severe  punishment  among  them.  Even  theft,  so 
venial  a  crime  among  the  Indians,  had  recently  been  punished 
with  hanging,  by  sentence  of  a  chief 

There  certainly  appears  to  be  a  peculiar  susceptibility  of  mo- 
ral and  religiou.s  iniproveuiout  among  this  tribe,  and  they  would 
seem  to  be  one  of  the  very,  very  few,  that  have  benefited  in  morals 
and  manners,  by  an  intercourse  with  white  men.  The  parties 
which  visited  them  about  twenty  years  previously,  in  the  expedi- 
tion fitted  out  by  Mr.  Astor,  complained  of  their  selfishness, 
their  extortion,  and  their  tliievi.sh  propensities.  The  very  reverse 
of  those  qualities  prevailed  among  them  during  the  prolonged 
sojourns  of  Captain  Bonneville. 

The  Lower  Nez  Perces  range  upon  the  Way-lee-way,  Imma- 


■i 


THE  LOWER  NEZ  PERCES. 


301 


hah,  Yenghies,  and  other  of  the  streams  west  of  the  mountains. 
Thej  hunt  the  beaver,  elk,  deer,  white  bear,  and  mountain  sheep. 
Beside  the  flesh  of  these  animals,  they  use  a  number  of  roots  for 
food ;  some  of  which  would  be  well  worth  transplanting  and  cul- 
tivating in  the  Atlantic  States.  Among  these  is  the  kamash,  a 
sweet  root,  about  the  form  and  size  of  an  onion,  and  said  to  be 
really  delicious.  The  cowish,  also,  or  biscuit  root,  about  the  size 
of  a  walnut,  which  they  reduce  to  a  very  palatable  flour ;  together 
with  the  jackap,  aisish,  quako,  and  others ;  which  they  cook  by 
steaming  them  in  the  ground. 

In  August  and  September,  these  Indians  keep  along  the 
rivers,  where  they  catch  and  dry  great  quantities  of  salmon; 
which,  while  they  last,  are  their  principal  food.  In. the  winter, 
they  congregate  in  villages  formed  of  comfortable  huts,  or  lodges, 
covered  with  mats.  They  are  generally  clad  in  deer  skins,  or 
woollens,  and  extremely  well  armed.  Above  all,  they  are  cele- 
brated for  owning  great  numbers  of  horses ;  which  they  mark, 
and  then  suffer  to  range  in  droves  in  their  most  fertile  plains. 
These  horses  are  principally  of  the  pony  breed ;  but  remarkably 
stout  and  long-winded.  They  are  brought  in  great  numbers  to 
the  establishments  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  sold  for  a 
mere  trifle. 

Such  is  the  account  given  by  Captain  Bonneville  of  the  Nez 
Perccs ;  who,  if  not  viewed  by  him  with  too  partial  an  eye,  are 
certainly  among  the  gentlest,  and  least  barbarous  people  of  these 
remote  wildernesses.  They  invariably  signified  to  him  their 
earnest  wish  that  an  American  post  might  be  established  among 
them ;  and  repeatedly  declared  that  they  would  trade  with 
Americans,  in  preference  to  any  other  people. 

Captain  Bonneville  had  intended  to  remain  some  time  in  this 


i     If 


302 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


neighborhood,  to  form  an  acquaintance  with  the  natives,  and  to 
collect  information,  and  establish  connections  that  might  be 
advantageous  in  the  way  of  trade.  The  delays,  however,  which 
he  had  experienced  on  his  journey,  obliged  him  to  shorten  his 
sojourn,  and  to  set  off  as  soon  as  possible,  so  as  to  reach  the  ren- 
dezvous at  the  Portneuf  at  the  appointed  time.  He  had  seen 
enough  to  convince  him  that  an  American  trade  might  be  carried 
on  with  advantage  in  this  quarter ;  and  he  determined  soon  to 
return  with  a  stronger  party,  more  completely  fitted  for  the 
pui'pose. 

As  he  stood  in  need  of  some  supplies  for  his  journey,  he 
applied  to  purchase  them  of  Mr.  Pambrune ;  but  soon  found  the 
difference  between  being  treated  as  a  guest,  or  as  a  rival  trader. 
The  worthy  superintendent,  who  had  extended  to  him  all  the 
genial  rites  of  hospitality,  now  suddenly  assumed  a  withered-up 
aspect  and  demeanor,  and  observed  that,  however  he  might  feel 
disposed  to  serve  him,  personally,  he  felt  bound  by  his  duty  to 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  to  do  nothing  which  should  facili- 
tate or  encourage  the  visits  of  other  traders  among  the  Indians 
in  that  part  of  the  country.  He  endeavored  to  dissuade  Captain 
Bonneville  from  returning  through  the  Blue  Mountains ;  assuring 
him  it  would  be  extremely  difficult  and  dangerous,  if  not  imprac- 
ticable, at  this  season  of  the  year  ;  and  advised  him  to  accompany 
Mr.  Payette,  a  leader  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  who  was 
about  to  depart  with  a  number  of  men,  by  a  more  circuitous,  but 
safe  route,  to  carry  supplies  to  the  company's  agent,  resident 
among  the  Upper  Nez  Perccs.  Captain  Bonneville,  however, 
piqued  at  his  having  refused  to  furnish  him  with  supplies,  and 
doubting  the  sincerity  of  his  advice,  determined  to  return  by  the 
more  direct  route  through  the  mountains ;  though  varying  his 


I  » 


A  SANCHO  OF  THE   WILDERNESS. 


303 


course,  in  some  respects,  from  that  by  which  he  had  come,  in 
consequence  of  information  gathered  among  the  neighboring 
Indians. 

Accordingly,  on  the  6th  of  March,  he  and  his  three  compan- 
ions, accompanied  by  their  Nez  Perc6  guides,  set  out  on  their 
return.  In  the  early  part  of  their  course,  they  touched  again  at 
several  of  the  Nez  Perce  villages,  where  they  had  experienced 
such  kind  treatment  on  their  way  down.  They  were  always 
welcomed  with  cordiality ;  and  every  thing  was  done  to  cheer 
them  on  their  journey. 

On  leaving  the  Way -lee-way  village,  they  were  joined  by  a 
Nez  Perce,  whose  society  was  welcomed  on  account  of  the  general 
gratitude  and  good-will  they  felt  for  his  tribe.  He  soon  proved 
a  heavy  clog  upon  the  little  party,  being  doltish  and  taciturn, 
lazy  in  the  extreme,  and  a  huge  feeder.  His  only  proof  of  intel- 
lect was  in  shrewdly  avoiding  all  labor,  and  availing  himself  of 
the  toil  of  others.  When  on  the  march,  he  always  lagged  behind 
the  rest,  leaving  to  them  the  task  of  breaking  a  way  through  all 
difficulties  and  impediments,  and  leisurely  and  lazily  jogging 
along  the  track,  which  they  had  beaten  through  the  snow.  At 
the  evening  encampment,  when  others  were  busy  gathering  fuel, 
providing  for  the  horses,  and  cooking  the  evening  repast,  this 
worthy  Sancho  of  the  wilderness  would  take  his  seat  quietly  and 
cosily  by  the  fire,  puffing  away  at  his  pipe,  and  eyeing  in  silence, 
but  with  wistful  intensity  of  gaze,  the  savory  morsels  roasting  for 
supper. 

When  meal-time  arrived,  however,  then  came  his  season  of 
activity.  He  no  longer  hung  back,  and  waited  for  others  to  take 
the  lead,  but  distinguished  himself  by  a  brilliancy  of  onset,  and 
a  sustained  vigor  and  duration  of  attack,  that  completely  shamed 


11 


it  i! 


'^M 


H 


m 


(      -ri 


304 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


the  efforts  of  his  competitors — albeit,  experienced  trenchermen 
of  no  mean  prowess.  Never  had  they  witnessed  such  power  of 
mastication,  and  such  marvellous  capacity  of  stomach,  as  in  this 
native  and  uncultivated  gastronome.  Having,  by  repeated  and 
prolonged  assaults,  at  length  completely  gorged  himself,  he 
would  wrap  himself  up,  and  lie  with  the  torpor  of  an  anaconda ; 
slowly  digesting  his  way  on  to  the  next  repast. 

The  gormandizing  powers  of  this  worthy  were,  at  first,  matters 
of  surprise  and  merriment  to  the  travellers ;  but  they  soon  became 
too  serious  for  a  joke,  threatening  devastation  to  the  fleshpots ; 
and  he  was  regarded  askance,  at  his  meals,  as  a  regular  kill-crop, 
destined  to  waste  the  substance  of  the  party.  Nothing  but  a 
sense  of  the  obligations  they  were  under  to  his  nation,  induced 
them  to  bear  with  such  a  guest ;  but  he  proceeded,  speedily,  to 
relieve  them  from  the  weight  of  these  obligations,  by  eating  a 
receipt  in  full. 


THE  UNINVITED  GUEST. 


I  I 
4i05 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 

The  uninvited  guest. — Free  and  easy  manners — Salutary  jokes. — A  prodigal 
son. — Exit  of  the  glutton. — A  sudden  change  in  fortune. — Danger  of  a 
visit  to  poor  relations. — Plucking  of  a  prosperous  man. — A  vagabond 
toilet — A  substitute  for  the  very  fine  horse. — Hard  travelling. — The  unin- 
vited guest  and  the  patriarchal  colt. — A  beggar  on  horseback. — A  catas- 
trophe.— Exit  of  the  merry  vagabond. 


As  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  men  were  encamped  one  evening 
among  the  hills  near  Snake  River,  seated  before  their  fire,  enjoy- 
ing a  hearty  supper,  they  were  suddenly  surprised  by  the  visit  of 
an  uninvited  guest.  He  was  a  ragged,  half-naked  Indian  hunter, 
armed  with  bow  and  arrows,  and  had  the  carcass  of  a  fine  buck 
thrown  across  his  shoulder.  Advancing  with  an  alert  step,  and 
free  and  easy  air,  he  threw  the  buck  on  the  ground,  and,  without 
waiting  for  an  invitation,  seated  himself  at  their  mess,  helped 
himself  without  ceremony,  and  chatted  to  the  right  and  left  in 
the  liveliest  and  most  unembarrassed  manner.  No  adroit  and 
veteran  dinner  hunter  of  a  metropolis  could  have  acquitted  him- 
self more  knowingly.  The  travellers  were  at  first  completely 
taken  by  surprise,  and  could  not  but  admire  the  facility  with 
which  this  ragged  cosmopolite  made  himself  at  home  among 
them.  While  they  stared  he  went  on,  making  the  most  of  the 
good  cheer  upon  which  he  had  so  fortunately  alighted ;  and  was 


>ll 


!l     i 


ff 


306 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


soon  elbow  deep  in  "  pot  luck,"  and  greased  from  the  tip  of  his 
nose  to  the  back  of  his  ears. 

As  the  company  recovered  from  their  surprise,  they  began  to 
feel  annoyed  at  this  intrusion.  Their  uninvited  guest,  unlike  the 
generality  of  his  tribe,  was  somewhat  dirty  as  well  as  ragged, 
and  they  had  no  relish  for  such  a  messmate.  Heaping  up,  there- 
fore, an  abundant  portion  of  the  "  provant"  upon  a  piece  of  bark, 
which  served  for  a  dish,  they  invited  him  to  confine  himself 
thereto,  instead  of  foraging  in  the  general  mess. 

He  complied  with  the  most  accommodating  spirit  imaginable ; 
and  went  on  eating  and  chatting,  and  laughing  and  smearing 
himself,  until  his  whole  countenance  shone  with  grease  and  good- 
humor.  In  the  course  of  his  repast,  his  attention  was  caught  by 
the  figure  of  the  gastronome,  who,  as  usual,  was  gorging  himself 
in  dogged  silence.  A  droll  cut  of  the  eye  showed  either  that  he 
knew  him  of  old,  or  perceived  at  once  his  characteristics.  He 
immediately  made  him  the  butt  of  his  pleasantries ;  and  cracked 
off  two  or  three  good  hits,  that  caused  the  sluggish  dolt  to  prick 
up  his  ears,  and  delighted  all  the  company.  From  this  time, 
the  uninvited  guest  was  taken  into  favor ;  his  jokes  began  to 
be  relished ;  his  careless,  free  and  easy  air,  to  be  considered 
singularly  amusing  ;  and  in  the  end,  he  was  pronounced  by  the 
travellers  one  of  the  merriest  companions  and  most  entertaining 
vagabonds  they  had  met  with  in  the  wilderness. 

Supper  being  over,  the  redoubtable  Shee-wee-she-ouaiter, 
for  such  was  the  simple  name  by  which  he  announced  himself, 
declared  his  intention  of  keeping  company  with  the  party  for  a 
day  or  two,  if  they  had  no  objection ;  and  by  way  of  backing 
his  self-invitation,  presented  the  carcass  of  the  buck  as  an  earnest 
of  his  hunting  abilities.     By  this  time,  he  had  so  completely 


HIS  HUNTING   TALENTS. 


807 


effaced  the  unfavorable  impression  made  by  his  first  appearance, 
that  he  was  made  welcome  to  the  camp,  and  the  Nez  PerciJ  guide 
undertook  to  give  him  lodging  for  the  night.  The  next  morning, 
at  break  of  day,  he  borrowed  a  gun,  and  was  off  among  the  hills, 
nor  was  any  thing  more  seen  of  him  until  a  few  minutes  after  the 
party  had  encamped  for  the  evening,  when  he  again  made  his 
appearance,  in  his  usual  frank,  careless  manner,  and  threw  down 
the  carcass  of  another  noble  deer,  which  he  had  borne  on  his 
back  for  a  considerable  distance. 

This  evening  he  was  the  life  of  tlie  party,  and  his  open  com- 
municative disposition,  free  from  all  disguise,  soon  put  them  in 
possession  of  his  history.  He  had  been  a  kind  of  prodigal  son 
in  his  native  village ;  living  a  loose,  heedless  life,  and  disregard- 
ing the  precepts  and  imperative  commands  of  the  chiefs.  He 
had,  in  consequence,  been  expelled  from  the  village,  but,  in  no- 
wise disheartened  at  this  banishment,  had  betaken  himself  to  the 
society  of  the  border  Indians,  and  had  led  a  careless,  haphazard, 
vagabond  life,  perfectly  consonant  to  his  humors ;  heedless  of  the 
future,  so  long  as  he  had  wherewithal  for  the  present ;  and  fear- 
ing no  lack  of  food,  so  long  as  he  had  the  implements  of  the 
chase,  and  a  fair  hunting  ground. 

Finding  him  very  expert  as  a  hunter,  and  being  pleased  with 
his  eccentricities,  and  his  strange  and  merry  hum^jr.  Captain 
Bonneville  fitted  him  out  handsomely  as  the  Nimrod  of  the  party, 
who  all  soon  became  quite  attached  to  him.  One  of  the  earliest 
and  most  signal  services  he  performed,  was  to  exorcise  the  insatiate 
kill-crop,  that  had  hitherto  oppressed  the  party.  In  fact,  the 
doltish  Nez  Perce,  who  had  seemed  so  perfectly  insensible  to 
rough  treatment  of  every  kind,  by  which  the  travellers  had  en- 
deavored to  elbow  him  out  of  their  society,  could  not  withstand 


i   i1 


308 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES, 


the  good-humored  bantering,  and  occasionally  sharp  wit  of  She- 
wee-she.  He  evidently  quailed  under  his  jokes,  and  sat  blinking 
like  an  owl  in  daylight,  when  pestered  by  the  flouts  and  peckings 
of  mischievous  birds.  At  lengtli  his  place  was  found  vacant  at 
meal-time ;  no  one  knew  when  he  went  off,  or  whither  he  had 
gone,  but  he  was  seen  no  more,  and  the  vast  surplus  that  remained 
when  the  repast  was  over,  showed  what  a  mighty  gormandizer  had 
departed. 

Relieved  from  this  incubus,  the  little  party  now  went  on 
cheerily.  She-wec-she  kept  them  in  fun  as  well  as  food.  His 
hunting  was  always  successful ;  he  was  ever  ready  to  render  any 
assistance  in  the  camp  or  on  the  march  ;  while  his  jokes,  his  an- 
tics, and  the  very  cut  of  his  countenance,  so  full  of  whim  and 
comicality,  kept  every  one  in  good-humor. 

In  this  way  they  journeyed  on  until  they  arrived  oi.  the  banks 
of  the  Immahah,  and  encamped  near  to  the  Nez  Perec  lodges. 
Here  She-wee-she  took  a  sudden  notion  to  visit  his  people,  and 
show  off  the  state  of  worldly  prosperity  to  which  he  had  so  sud- 
denly attained.  He  accordingly  departed  in  the  morning,  arrayed 
in  hunter's  style,  and  well  appointed  with  every  thing  befitting 
his  vocation.  The  buoyancy  of  his  gait,  the  elasticity  of  his  step, 
and  the  hilarity  of  his  countenance,  showed  that  he  anticipated, 
with  chuckling  satisfaction,  the  surprise  he  was  about  to  give 
those  who  had  ejected  him  from  their  society  in  rags.  But  what 
a  change  was  there  in  his  whole  appearance  when  he  rejoined  the 
party  in  the  evening  !  He  came  skulking  into  camp  like  a  beaten 
cur,  with  his  tail  between  his  legs.  All  his  finery  was  gone ;  he 
was  naked  as  when  he  was  born,  with  the  exception  of  a  scanty 
flap  that  answered  the  purpose  of  a  fig  leaf  His  fellow-travellers 
at  first  did  not  know  him,  but  supposed  it  to  be  some  vagrant 


i  f  is:. } 


A  REVERSE  OF  FORTUNE. 


Root  Digger  sneaking  into  the  camp ;  but  when  they  recognized 
in  this  forlorn  object  their  prime  wag,  She-wee-she,  whom  they 
had  seen  depart  in  the  morning  in  such  liigh  glee  and  high  feather, 
they  could  not  contain  their  merriment,  but  hailed  him  with  loud 
and  repeated  peals  of  laughter. 

She-wee-she  was  not  of  a  spirit  to  be  easily  cast  down ;  he 
soon  joined  in  the  merriment  as  heartily  as  any  one,  and  seemed 
to  consider  his  reverse  of  fortune  an  excellent  joke.  Captain 
Bonneville,  however,  thought  proper  to  check  his  good-humor,  and 
demanded,  with  some  degree  of  sternness,  the  cause  of  his  altered 
condition.  He  replied  in  the  most  natural  and  self-complacent 
style  imaginable,  "  that  he  had  been  among  his  cousins,  who  were 
very  poor ;  they  had  been  delighted  to  see  him ;  still  more  de- 
lighted with  his  good  fortune ;  they  had  taken  him-  to  their  arms ; 
admired  his  equipments ;  one  had  begged  for  this ;  another  for 
that " — in  fine,  what  with  the  poor  devil's  inherent  heedlessness, 
and  the  real  generosity  of  his  disposition,  his  needy  cousins  had 
succeeded  in  stripping  him  of  all  his  clothes  and  accoutrements, 
excepting  the  fig  leaf  with  which  he  had  returned  to  camp. 

Seeing  his  total  want  of  care  and  forethought,  Captain  Bon- 
neville determined  to  let  him  suffer  a  little,  in  hopes  it  might 
prove  a  salutary  lesson  ;  and,  at  any  rate,  to  make  him  no  more 
presents  while  in  the  neighborhood  of  his  needy  cousins.  He  was 
left,  therefore,  to  shift  for  himself  in  his  naked  condition  ;  which, 
however,  did  not  seem  to  give  him  any  concern,  or  to  abate  one 
jot  of  his  good-humor.  In  the  course  of  his  lounging  about  the 
camp,  however,  he  got  possession  of  a  deer  skin  ;  whereupon,  cut- 
ting a  slit  in  the  middle,  he  thrust  his  head  through  it,  so  that 
the  two  ends  hung  down  before  and  behind,  something  like  a 
South  American  poncho,  or  the  tabard  of  a  herald.     These  ends 


I 


310 


BONNKVILLEVS  ADVENTURKS. 


he  tied  together,  under  the  armpits  ;  and  thuH  arrayed,  presented 
hiuiHulf  unco  more  hefore  the  captain,  with  an  uir  uf  perfect  self- 
satisfaction,  as  though  he  thought  it  impossible  fur  any  fault  to 
bo  found  with  his  tuilet. 

A  little  further  journeying  brought  the  travellers  to  the  petty 
village  of  Nez  Percys,  governed  by  the  worthy  and  affectionate 
old  patriarch  who  had  made  Captain  Bonneville  the  costly  present 
of  the  very  fine  horse.  The  old  man  welcomed  them  once  more 
to  his  village  with  his  usual  cordiality,  and  his  respectable  squaw 
and  hopeful  son,  cherishing  grateful  recollections  of  the  hatchet 
and  ear-bobs,  joined  in  a  chorus  of  friendly  gratulation. 

As  the  nmch-vaunted  steed,  once  the  joy  and  pride  of  this  in- 
teresting family,  was  now  nearly  knocked  up  by  travelling,  and 
totally  inade<|uate  to  the  mountain  scramble  that  lay  ahead,  Cap- 
tain Bonneville  restored  him  to  the  venerable  patriarch,  with  re- 
newed acknowledgments  for  the  invaluable  gift.  Somewhat  to 
his  surprise,  he  was  immediately  supplied  with  a  fine  '  vo  years' 
old  colt  in  his  stead,  a  substitution  which,  he  afterwards  learnt, 
according  to  Indian  custom  in  such  cases,  he  might  have  claimed 
as  a  matter  of  right.  We  do  not  find  that  any  after  claims  were 
made  on  account  of  this  colt.  This  donation  may  be  regarded, 
therefore,  as  a  signal  punctilio  of  Indian  honor ;  but  it  will  be 
found  that  the  animal  soon  proved  an  unlucky  acquisition  to  the 
party. 

While  at  this  village,  the  Nez  Perce  guide  had  held  consulta- 
tions with  some  of  the  inhabitants  as  to  the  mountain  tract  the 
party  were  about  to  traverse.  He  now  began  to  wear  an  anxious 
aspect,  and  to  indulge  in  gloomy  forebodings.  The  snow,  he  had 
been  told,  lay  to  a  great  depth  in  the  passes  of  the  mountains,  and 
difficulties  would  Increase  as  he  proceeded.     He  begged  Captain 


THE   INDIAN    DROLL. 


811 


BoiinevilU),  thoroforo,  to  t  avcl  vory  .slowly,  ho  as  to  keep  tho 
horses  in  strength  aiid  spirit  for  the  hard  times  they  would  liavo 
to  encounter.  Tho  c.antuin  surrendered  the  regulation  of  tho 
march  entirely  to  his  discretion,  and  pushed  on  in  tho  advanco, 
amusing  himself  with  hunting,  so  as  generally  to  kill  a  deer  or 
two  in  the  course  of  the  day,  and  arriving,  before  tho  rest  of  tho 
party,  at  the  spot  designated  by  tho  guide  for  the  evening's  en- 
campment. • 

In  the  ineantimo,  the  others  plodded  on  at  tho  heels  of  the 
guide,  accompanied  by  that  merry  vagabond,  She-wee-she.  Tho 
primitive  garb  worn  by  this  droll,  left  all  his  nether  man  exposed 
to  the  biting  blasts  of  the  mountains.  Still  his  wit  was  never 
frozen,  nor  his  sunshiny  temper  beclouded ;  and  his  innumerable 
antics  and  practical  jokes,  while  they  ijuickened  the  circulation  of 
his  own  blood,  kept  his  companions  in  high  good-humor. 

So  passed  the  first  day  after  the  departure  from  the  patri- 
arch's. The  second  day  commenced  in  the  same  manner ;  the 
captain  in  tho  advance,  the  rest  of  the  party  following  on  slowly. 
She-weo-she,  for  the  greater  part  of  the  time,  trudged  on  foot 
over  the  snow,  keeping  himself  warm  by  hard  exercise,  and  all 
kinds  of  crazy  capers.  In  the  height  of  his  foolery,  the  patriar- 
chal colt,  which,  unbroken  to  the  saddle,  was  suffered  to  follow 
on  at  large,  happened  to  come  within  his  reach.  In  a  moment, 
he  was  on  his  back,  snapping  his  fingers,  and  yelping  with  delight. 
The  oolt,  unused  to  such  a  burden,  and  half  wild  by  nature,  fell 
to  prancing  and  rearing  and  snorting  and  plunging  and  kicking ; 
and,  at  length,  set  off  full  speed  over  the  most  dangerous  ground. 
As  the  route  led  generally  along  tho  steep  and  craggy  sides  of 
the  hills,  both  horse  and  horseman  were  constantly  in  danger, 
and  more  than  once  had  a  hairbreadth  escape  from  deadly  peril. 


!  ' 


1  '  i| 


u 


I, 


'-'^. 


312 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


Nothing,  however,  could  daunt  this  madcap  savage.  He  stuck 
to  the  colt  like  a  plaistcr,  up  ridges,  down  gullies ;  whooping  and 
yelling  with  the  wildest  glee.  Never  did  beggar  on  horseback 
display  more  headlong  horsemanship.  His  companions  followed 
him  with  their  eyes,  sometimes  laughing,  sometimes  holding  in 
their  breath  at  his  vagaries,  until  they  saw  the  colt  make  a  sud- 
den plunge  or  start,  and  pitch  his  unlucky  rider  headlong  over  a 
precipice.  There  was  a  general  cry  of  horror,  and  all  hastened 
to  the  spot.  They  found  the  poor  fellow  lying  among  the  rocks 
below,  sadly  bruised  and  mangled.  It  was  almost  a  miracle  that 
he  had  escaped  with  life.  Even  in  this  condition,  his  merry 
spirit  was  not  entirely  quelled,  and  he  summoned  up  a  feeble 
laugh  at  the  alarm  and  anxiety  of  those  who  came  to  his  relief 
He  was  extricated  from  his  rocky  bed,  and  a  messenger  dis- 
patched to  inform  Captain  Bonneville  of  the  accident.  The 
latter  returned  with  all  speed,  and  encamped  the  party  at  the 
first  convenient  spot.  Here  the  wounded  man  was  stretched 
upon  buffalo  skins,  and  the  captain,  who  officiated  on  all  occa- 
sions as  doctor  and  surgeon  to  the  party,  proceeded  to  examine 
his  wounds.  The  principal  one  was  a  long  and  deep  gash  in  the 
thigh,  which  reached  to  the  bone.  Calling  for  a  needle  and 
thread,  the  captain  now  prepared  to  sew  up  the  wound,  admon- 
ishing the  patient  to  submit  to  the  operation  with  becoming 
fortitude.  His  gayety  was  at  an  end ;  he  could  no  longer  sum- 
mon up  even  a  forced  smile ;  and,  at  the  first  puncture  of  the 
needle,  flinched  so  piteously,  that  the  captain  was  obliged  to 
pause,  and  to  order  him  a  powerful  dose  of  alcohol.  This  some- 
what rallied  up  his  spirit  and  warmed  his  heart ;  all  the  time  of 
the  operation,  however,  he  kept  his  eyes  riveted  on  the  wound, 
with  his  teeth  set,  and  a  whimsical  wincing  of  the  countenance, 


•-*^» 


DEPARTURE  OF  SHE-WEE-SHE. 


313 


that  occasionally  gave  his  nose  something  of  its  usual  comio 
curl. 

When  the  wound  was  fairly  closed,  the  captain  washed  it  with 
rum,  and  administered  a  second  dose  of  the  same  to  the  patient, 
who  was  tucked  in  for  the  night,  and  advised  to  compose  himself 
to  sleep.  He  was  restless  and  uneasy,  however ;  repeatedly 
expressing  his  fears  that  his  leg  would  be  so  much  swollen  the 
next  day,  as  to  prevent  his  proceeding  with  the  party ;  nor  could 
he  be  quieted,  until  the  captain  gave  a  decided  opinion  favorable 
to  his  wishes. 

Early  the  nest  morning,  a  gleam  of  his  merry  humor  returned, 
on  finding  that  his  wounded  limb  retained  its  natural  proportions. 
On  attempting  to  use  it,  however,  he  found  himself  unable  to 
stand.  He  made  several  eiforts  to  coax  himself  into  a  belief  that 
he  might  still  continue  forward ;  but  at  length,  shook  his  head 
despondingly,  and  said,  that  "  as  he  had  but  one  leg,"  it  was  all 
in  vain  to  attempt  a  passage  of  the  mountain. 

Every  one  grieved  to  part  with  so  boon  a  companion,  and 
under  such  disastrous  circumstances.  He  was  once  more  clothed 
and  equipped,  each  one  making  him  some  parting  present.  He 
was  then  helped  on  a  horse,  which  Captain  Bonneville  presented 
to  him ;  and  after  many  parting  expressions  of  good-will  on  both 
sides,  set  off  on  his  return  to  his  old  haunts ;  doubtless,  to  be 
once  more  plucked  by  his  affectionate  but  needy  cousins. 


314 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


CHAPTER  XXXVI. 

The  difficult  mountain. — A  smoke  and  consultation. — The  captain's  speech.— 
An  icy  turnpike. — Danger  of  a  false  step. — Arrival  on  Snake  River. — 
Return  to  Portneuf. — Meeting  of  comrades. 


ill' J 


l.i 


Continuing  their  journey  up  the  course  of  the  Immahah,  the 
travellers  found,  as  they  approached  the  head  waters,  the  snow 
increased  in  quantity,  so  as  to  lie  two  feet  deep.  They  were 
again  obliged,  therefore,  to  beat  down  a  path  for  their  horses, 
sometimes  travelling  on  the  icy  surface  of  the  stream.  At 
length  they  reached  the  place  where  they  intended  to  scale  the 
mountain ;  and,  having  broken  a  pathway  to  the  foot,  were 
agreeably  surprised  to  find  that  the  wind  had  drifted  the  snow 
from  off  the  side,  so  that  they  attained  the  summit  with  but  little 
difl&culty.  Here  they  encamped,  with  the  intention  of  beating  a 
track  through  the  mountains.  A  short  experiment,  however, 
obliged  them  to  give  up  the  attempt,  the  snow  lying  in  vast 
drifts,  often  higher  than  the  horses'  heads. 

Captain  Bonneville  now  took  the  two  Indian  guides,  and  set 
out  to  reconnoitre  the  neighborhood.  Observing  a  high  peak 
which  overtopped  the  rest,  he  climbed  it,  and  discovered  from 
the  summit  a  pass  about  nine  miles  long,  but  so  heavily  piled 
with  snow,  that  it  seemed  impracticable.  He  now  lit  a  pipe,  and, 
sitting  down  with  the  two  guides,  proceeded  to  hold  a  consulta- 
tion after  the  Indian  mode.     For  a  long  while  they  all  smoked 


*»: 


t: 


I  , 


A  SMOKE  AND  A  CONSULTATION. 


315 


vigorously  and  in  silence,  pondering  over  the  subject  matter 
before  them.  At  length  a  discussion  commenced,  and  the  opinion 
in  which  the  two  guides  concurred,  was,  that  the  horses  could  not 
possibly  cross  the  snows.  They  advised,  therefore,  that  the  party 
should  proceed  on  foot,  and  they  should  take  the  horses  back  to 
the  village,  where  they  would  be  well  taken  care  of  until  Captain 
Bonneville  should  send  for  them.  They  urged  this  advice  with 
great  earnestness ;  declaring  that  their  chief  would  be  extremely 
angry,  and  treat  them  severely,  should  any  of  the  horses  of  his 
good  friends,  the  white  men,  be  lost,  in  crossing  under  their 
guidance ;  and  that,  therefore,  it  was  good  they  should  not 
attempt  it. 

Captain  Bonneville  sat  smoking  his  pipe,  and  listening  to 
them  with  Indian  silence  and  gravity.  When  they  had  finished, 
he  replied  to  them  in  their  own  style  of  language. 

"  My  friends,"  said  he,  "  I  have  seen  the  pass,  and  have  lis- 
tened to  your  words ;  you  have  little  nearts.  When  troubles  and 
dangers  lie  in  your  way,  you  turn  your  backs  That  is  not  the 
way  with  my  nation.  When  great  obstacles  present,  and  threaten 
to  keep  them  back,  their  hearts  swell,  and  they  push  forward. 
They  love  to  conquer  difl&culties.  But  enough  for  the  present. 
Night  is  coming  on ;  let  us  return  to  our  camp." 

He  moved  on,  and  they  followed  in  silence.  On  reaching  the 
camp,  he  found  the  men  extremely  discouraged.  One  of  their 
number  had  been  surveying  the  neighborhood,  and  seriously  as- 
sured them,  that  the  snow  was  at  least  a  hundred  feet  deep. 
The  captain  cheered  them  up,  and  diflFused  fresh  spirit  in  them 
by  his  example.  Still  he  was  much  perplexed  how  to  proceed. 
About  dark  there  waa  a  slight  drizzling  rain.  An  expedient  now 
suggested  itself     This  was  to  make  two  light  sleds,  place  the 


11 


m 

rll 


316 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


packs  on  them,  and  drag  them  to  the  other  side  of  the  mountain, 
thus  forming  a  road  in  the  wet  snow,  which,  should  it  afterwards 
freeze,  would  be  sufficiently  hard  to  bear  the  horses.  This  plan 
was  promptly  put  into  execution  ;  the  sleds  were  constructed,  the 
heavy  baggage  was  drawn  backward  and  forward  until  the  road 
was  beaten,  wien  they  desisted  from  their  fatiguing  labor.  The 
night  turned  out  clear  and  cold,  and  by  morning,  their  road  was 
incrusted  with  ice  sufficiently  strong  for  their  purpose.  They 
now  set  out  on  their  icy  turnpike,  and  got  on  well  enough,  ex- 
cepting that  now  and  then  a  horse  would  sidle  out  of  the  track, 
and  immediately  sink  up  to  the  neck.  Then  came  on  toil  and  diffi- 
culty, and  they  would  be  obliged  to  haul  up  the  floundering  ani- 
mal with  ropes.  One,  more  unlucky  than  the  rest,  after  repeated 
falls,  had  to  be  abandoned  in  the  snow.  Notwithstanding  these 
repeated  delays,  they  succeeded,  before  the  sun  had  acquired 
sufficient  power  to  thaw  the  snow,  in  getting  all  the  rest  of  their 
horses  safely  to  the  other  side  of  the  mountain. 

Their  difficulties  and  dangers,  however,  were  not  yet  at  an 
end.  They  had  now  to  descend,  and  the  whole  surface  of  the 
snow  was  glazed  with  ice.  It  was  necessary,  therefore,  to  wait 
until  the  warmth  of  the  sun  should  melt  the  glassy  crust  of  sleet, 
and  give  them  a  foothold  in  the  yielding  snow.  They  had  a 
frightful  warning  of  the  danger  of  any  movement  while  the  sleet 
remained.  A  wild  young  mare,  in  her  restlessness,  strayed  to 
the  edge  of  a  declivity.  One  slip  was  fatal  to  her ;  she  lost  her 
balance,  careered  with  headlong  velocity  down  the  slippery  side 
of  the  mountain  for  more  than  two  thousand  feet,  and  was  dashed 
to  pieces  at  the  bottom.  When  the  travellers  afterwards  sought 
the  carcass  to  cut  it  up  for  food,  they  found  it  torn  and  mangled 
in  the  most  horrible  manner. 


SIGNS  OF  WHITE   MEN. 


317 


It  was  quite  late  in  the  evening  before  the  party  descended 
to  the  ultimate  skirts  of  the  snow.  Here  they  planted  large  logs 
below  them  to  prevent  their  sliding  down,  and  encamped  for  the 
night.  The  next  day  they  succeeded  in  bringing  down  their  bag- 
gage to  the  encampment ;  then  packing  all  up  regularly,  and 
loading  their  horses,  they  once  more  set  out  briskly  and  cheer- 
fully, and  in  the  course  of  the  following  day  succeeded  in  getting 
to  a  grassy  region. 

Here  their  Nez  Perce  guides  declared  that  all  the  difficulties 
of  the  mountains  were  at  an  end,  and  their  course  was  plain  and 
simple,  and  needed  no  further  guidance ;  they  asked  leave,  there- 
fore, to  return  home.  This  was  readily  granted,  with  many  thanks 
and  presents  for  their  faitliful  services.  They  took  a  long  fare- 
well smoke  with  their  white  friends,  after  which,  they  mounted 
their  horses  and  set  off,  exchanging  many  farewells  and  kind 
wishes. 

On  the  following  day.  Captain  Bonneville  completed  his  jour- 
ney down  the  mountain,  and  encamped  on  the  borders  of  Snake 
River,  where  he  found  the  grass  in  great  abundance  and  eight 
inches  in  height.  In  this  neighborhood,  he  saw  on  the  rocky 
banks  of  the  river  several  prismoids  of  basaltes,  rising  to  the 
height  of  fifty  or  sixty  feet. 

Nothing  particularly  worthy  of  note  occurred  during  several 
days  as  the  party  proceeded  up  along  Snake  River  and  across  its 
tributary  streams.  After  crossing  Grun  Creek,  they  met  with 
various  signs  that  Vhite  people  were  in  the  neighborhood,  and 
Captain  Bonneville  made  earnest  exertions  to  discover  whether 
they  were  any  of  his  own  people,  that  he  might  join  them.  He 
soon  ascertained  that  they  had  been  starved  out  of  this  tract  of 
country,  and  had  betaken  themselves  to  the  buffalo  region,  whi- 


4 


I 


,r« 


318 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


ther  he  now  shaped  his  course.  In  proceeding  along  Snake  River, 
he  found  small  hordes  of  Shoshonies  lingering  upon  the  minor 
streams,  and  living  upon  trout  and  other  fish,  which  they  catch 
in  great  numbers  at  this  season  in  fish-traps.  The  greater  part 
of  the  tribe,  however,  had  penetrated  the  mountains  to  hunt  the 
elk,  deer,  and  ahsahta  or  bighorn. 

On  the  12th  of  May,  Captain  Bonneville  reached  the  Port- 
neuf  River,  in  the  vicinity  of  which  he  had  left  the  winter  en- 
campment of  his  company  on  the  preceding  Christmas  day.  He 
had  then  expected  to  be  back  by  the  beginning  of  March,  but 
circumstances  had  detained  him  upwards  of  two  months  beyond 
the  time,  and  the  winter  encampment  must  long  ere  this  have 
been  broken  up.  Halting  on  the  banks  of  the  Portneuf,  he  dis- 
patched scouts  a  few  miles  above,  to  visit  the  old  camping  ground 
and  search  for  signals  of  the  party,  or  of  their  whereabouts, 
should  they  actually  have  abandoned  the  spot.  They  returned 
without  being  able  to  ascertain  any  thing. 

Being  now  destitute  of  provisions,  the  travellers  found  it 
necessary  to  make  a  short  hunting  excursion  after  buffalo.  They 
made  caches,  therefore,  in  an  island  in  the  river,  in  which  they 
deposited  all  their  baggage,  and  then  set  out  on  their  expedition. 
They  were  so  fortunate  as  to  kill  a  couple  of  fine  bulls,  and  cut- 
ting up  the  carcasses,  determined  to  husband  this  stock  of  provi- 
sions with  the  most  miserly  care,  lest  they  should  again  be  obliged 
to  venture  into  the  open  and  dangerous  hunting  grounds.  Re- 
turning to  their  island  on  the  18th  of  May,  they  found  that  the 
wclves  had  been  at  the  caches,  scratched  up  the  contents,  and 
scattered  them  in  every  direction.  They  now  constructed  a  more 
secure  one,  in  which  they  deposited  their  heaviest  articles,  and 
then  descended  Snake  River  again,  and  encamped  just  above  the 


REUNION  OF  PARTIES. 


319 


American  Falls.  Here  they  i)rocceded  to  fortify  themselves,  in- 
tending to  remain  here,  and  give  their  horses  an  opportunity 
to  recruit  their  strength  with  good  pasturage,  until  it  should  be 
time  to  set  out  for  the  annual  rendezvous  in  Bear  River  valley. 

On  the  1st  of  June  they  descried  four  men  on  the  other  side 
of  the  river,  opposite  to  the  camp,  and,  having  attracted  their 
attention  by  a  discharge  of  rifles,  ascertained  to  their  joy  that 
they  were  some  of  their  own  people.  From  these  men  Captain 
Bonneville  learnt  that  the  whole  party  which  he  had  left  in 
the  preceding  month  of  December,  were  encamped  on  Blackfoot 
River,  a  tributary  of  Snake  River,  not  very  far  above  the  Port- 
neuf  Thither  he  proceeded  with  all  possible  dispatch,  and  in  a 
little  while  had  the  pleasure  of  finding  himself  once  more  sur- 
rounded by  his  people,  who  greeted  his  return  among  them  in 
the  heartiest  manner ;  for  his  long-protracted  absence  had  con- 
vinced them  that  he  and  his  three  companions  had  been  cut  off 
by  some  hostile  tribe. 

The  party  had  suffered  much  during  his  absence.  They  had 
been  pinched  by  famine  and  almost  starved,  and  had  been  forced 
to  repair  to  the  caches  at  Salmon  River.  Here  they  fell  in  with 
the  Blackfeefc  bands,  and  considered  themselves  fortunate  in 
being  able  to  retreat  from  the  dangerous  neighborhood  without 
sustaining  any  loss. 

Being  thus  reunited,  a  general  treat  from  Captain  Bonneville 
to  his  men  was  a  matter  of  course.  Two  days,  therefore,  were 
given  up  to  such  feasting  and  merriment  as  their  means  and  situ- 
ation afforded.  What  was  wanting  in  good  cheer  was  made  up  in 
good  will ;  the  free  trappers  in  particular,  distinguished  themselves 
on  the  occasion,  and  the  satiftnalia  was  enjoyed  with  a  hearty 
holiday  spirit,  that  smacked  of  the  game  flavor  of  the  wilderness. 


330 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


CHAPTER  XXXVII. 

Departure  for  the  rendezvous. — A  war  party  of  Blackfeet. — A  mock  bustle. — 

Sham  fires  at  night. — Warlike  precautions. — Dangers  of  a  night  attack. — 

'   A  panic  among  horses. — Cautious  march. — The  Beer  Springs. — A  mock 

carousal. — Skirmishing  with  buffaloes. — A  buffalo  bait. — Arrival  at  the 

rendezvous. — Meeting  of  various  bands. 


'^Z  After  the  two  days  of  festive  indulgence,  Captain  Bonneville 
broke  up  the  encampment,  and  set  out  with  his  motley  crew  of 
hired  and  free  trappers,  half-breeds,  Indians,  and  squaws,  for  the 
main  rendezvous  in  Bear  River  valley.  Directing  his  course  up 
the  Blackfoot  River,  he  soon  reached  the  hills  among  which  it 
takes  its  rise.  Here,  while  on  the  march,  he  descried  from  the 
bfow  of  a  hill,  a  war  party  of  about  sixty  Blackfeet,  on  the  plain 
immediately  below  him.  His  situation  was  perilous ;  for  the 
greater  part  of  his  people  were  dispersed  in  various  directions. 
Still,  to  betray  hesitation  or  fear,  would  be  to  discover  his  actual 
weakness,  and  to  invite  attack.  He  assumed,  instantly,  therefore, 
a  belligerent  tone ;  ordered  the  squaws  to  lead  the  horses  to  a 
small  grove  of  ashen  trees,  and  unload  and  tie  them  ;  and  caused 
a  great  bustle  to  be  made  by  his  scanty  handful  ;  the  leaders 
riding  hith  >r  and  thither,  and  vociferating  with  all  their  might, 
as  if  a  numerous  force  were  getting  under  way  for  an  attack. 
To  keep  up  the  deception  as  to  his  force,  he  ordered,  at  night, 


AN  ALARMED  CAMP. 


a  number  of  extra  fires  to  be  made  in  his  camp,  and  kept  up  a 
vigilant  watch.  His  men  were  all  directed  to  keep  themselves 
prepared  for  instant  action.  In  such  cases  the  experienced  trap- 
per sleeps  in  his  clothes,  with  his  rifle  beside  him,  the  shot-belt 
and  powder-flask  on  the  stock  ;  so  that,  in  case  of  alarm,  he  can 
lay  his  hand  upon  the  whole  of  his  equipment  at  once,  and  start 
up,  completely  armed. 

Captain  Bonneville  was  also  especially  careful  to  secure  the 
horses,  and  set  a  vigilant  guard  upon  them  ;  for  there  lies  the 
great  object  and  principal  danger  of  a  night  attack.  The  grand 
move  of  the  lurking  savage  is  to  cause  a  panic  among  the  horses. 
In  such  cases  one  horse  frightens  another,  until  all  are  alarmed, 
and  struggle  to  break  loose.  In  camps  where  there  are  great 
numbers  of  Indians,  with  their  horses,  a  night  alarm  of  the  kind 
is  tremendous.  The  running  of  the  horses  that  have  broken 
loose  ;  the  snorting,  stamping,  and  rearing  of  those  which  remain 
fast ;  the  howling  of  dogs ;  the  yelling  of  Indians  ;  the  scamper- 
ing of  white  men,  and  red  men,  with  their  guns  ;  the  overturning 
of  lodges,  and  trampling  of  fires  by  the  horses ;  the  flashes  of 
the  fires,  lighting  up  forms  of  men  and  steeds  dashing  through 
the  gloom,  altogether  make  up  one  of  the  wildest  scenes  of  con- 
fusion imaginable.  In  this  way,  sometimes,  all  the  horses  of  a 
camp,  amounting  to  several  hundred,  will  be  frightened  oflf  in  a 
single  night.  , 

The  night  passed  oflF  without  any  disturbance  ;  but  there  was 

no  likelihood  that  a  war  party  of  Blackfeet,  once  on  the  track  of 

a  camp  where  there  was  a  chance  for  spoils,  would  fail  to  hover 

round  it.     The  captain,  therefore,  continued  to  maintain  the  most 

vigilant  precautions  ;  throwing  out  scouts  in  the  advance,  and  on 

every  rising  ground. 

14* 


■  I  IK 

■  IR 


393 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


In  the  course  of  the  day  ho  arrived  at  the  plain  of  white  clay, 
already  mentioned,  surrounded  by  the  mineral  springs,  called 
Beer  Springs  by  the  trappers.*  Here  the  men  all  halted  to  have 
a  regale.  In  a  few  moments  every  spring  had  its  jovial  knot  of 
hard  drinkers,  with  tin  cup  in  hand,  indulging  in  a  mock  carouse ; 
quaffing,  pledging,  toasting,  bandying  jokes,  singing  drinking 
songs,  and  uttering  peals  of  laughter,  until  it  seemed  as  if  their 
imaginations  had  given  potency  to  the  beverage,  and  cheated 
them  into  a  fit  of  intoxication.  Indeed,  in  the  excitement  of  the 
moment,  they  were  loud  and  extravagant  in  their  commendations 
of  "  the  mountain  tap ;"  elevating  it  above  every  beverage  pro- 
duced from  hops  or  malt.  It  was  a  singular  and  fantastic  scene ; 
suited  to  a  region  where  every  thing  is  strange  and  peculiar  : — 
These  groups  of  trappers,  and  hunters,  and  Indians,  with  their 
wild  costumes,  and  wilder  countenances  ;  their  boisterous  gayety, 
and  reckless  air  ;  quaffing,  and  making  merry  round  these  spark- 
ling fountains  ;  while  beside  them  lay  their  weapons,  ready  to  be 
snatched  up  for  instant  service.  Painters  are  fond  of  represent- 
ing banditti  at  their  rude  and  picturesque  carousals ;  but  hero 

•  In  a  manuscript  journal  of  Mr.  Nathaniel  G.  Wyeth,  we  find  the  follow- 
ing mention  of  this  watering-place  : 

"  There  is  here  a  soda  spring  ;  or,  I  may  say,  fifty  of  them.  These  springs 
throw  out  lime,  which  deposits  and  forms  little  hillocks  of  a  yellowish-colored 
Btone.  There  is,  also,  here,  a  warm  spring,  which  throws  out  water,  with  a 
jet ;  which  is  Hke  bilge  .vatcr  in  taste.  There  are,  also,  here,  peat  beds,  which 
Bometimes  take  fire,  and  leave  behind  a  deep,  light  ashes ;  in  which  animals 
sink  deep.  «  *  *  I  ascended  a  mountain,  and  from  it  could  see  that  Bear 
River  took  a  short  turn  round  Sheep  Rock.  There  were,  in  the  plain,  many 
hundred  mounds  of  yellowish  stone,  with  a  crater  on  the  top,  formed  of  the 
deposits  of  the  impregnated  water." 


SKIRMISHINO  WITH   BUFFALOES. 


333 


were  groups,  still  more  rude  and  picturesque ;  and  it  needed  but 
a  sudden  onset  of  Blackfcct,  and  a  quick  transition  from  a  fan- 
tastic revel  to  a  furious  melee,  to  have  rendered  this  picture  of  a 
trapper's  life  complete. 

The  beer  frolic,  however,  passed  off  without  any  untoward 
circumstance  ;  and,  unlike  most  drinking  bouts,  left  neither  head- 
ache nor  heartache  behind.  Captain  Bonneville  now  directed  bis 
course  up  along  Bear  River  ;  amusing  himself,  occasionally,  with 
hunting  the  buffalo,  with  which  the  country  was  covered.  Some- 
times, when  he  saw  a  huge  bull  taking  his  repose  in  a  prairie,  he 
would  steal  along  a  ravine,  until  close  upon  him ;  then  rouse  him 
from  his  meditations  with  a  pebble,  and  take  a  shot  at  him  as  ho 
started  up.  Such  is  the  quickness  with  which  this  animal  springs 
upon  his  legs,  that  it  is  not  easy  to  discover  the  muscular  process 
by  which  it  is  effected.  The  horse  rises  first  upon  his  fore  legs ; 
and  the  domestic  cow,  upon  her  hinder  limbs ;  but  the  buffalo 
bounds  at  once  from  a  couchant  to  an  erect  position,  with  a  cele- 
rity that  baffles  the  eye.  Though  from  his  bulk,  and  rolling  gait, 
he  does  not  appear  to  run  with  much  swiftness ;  yet,  it  takes  a 
stanch  horse  to  overtake  him,  when  at  full  speed  on  level  ground ; 
and  a  buffalo  cow  is  still  fleeter  in  her  motion. 

Among  the  Indians  and  half-breeds  of  the  party,  were  several 
admirable  horsemen  and  bold  hunter.s ;  who  amused  themselves 
with  a  grotesque  kind  of  buffalo  bait.  Whenever  they  found  a 
huge  bull  in  the  plains,  they  prepared  for  their  teasing  and  barba- 
rous sport.  Surrounding  him  on  horseback,  they  would  discharge 
their  arrows  at  him  in  quick  succession,  goading  him  to  make  an 
attack;  which,  with  a  dexterous  movement  of  the  horse,  they 
would  easily  avoid.  In  this  way,  they  hovered  round  him, 
feathering  him  with  arrows,  as  he  reared  and  plunged  about,  un- 


1 


I  * 


f  ' 


1 


>  vi 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


til  he  was  bristled  all  over  like  a  porcupine.  When  they  per- 
ceived in  him  signs  of  exhaustion,  and  ho  could  no  longer  be  pro- 
yoked  to  make  battle,  they  would  dismount  from  their  horses, 
approach  him  in  the  rear,  and  seizing  him  by  the  tail,  jerk  him 
from  side  to  side,  and  drag  him  backwards  ;  until  the  frantic  ani- 
mal, gathering  fresh  strength  from  fury,  would  break  from  them, 
and  rush,  with  flashing  eyes  and  a  hoarse  bellowing,  upon  any 
enemy  in  sight ;  but  in  a  little  while,  his  transient  excitement  at 
an  end,  would  pitch  headlong  on  the  ground,  and  expire.  The  ar- 
rows were  then  plucked  forth,  the  tongue  cut  out  and  preserved 
as  a  dainty,  and  the  carcass  left  a  banquet  for  the  wolves. 

Pursuing  his  course  up  Bear  River,  Captain  Bonneville  ar- 
rived, on  the  13th  of  June,  at  the  Little  Snake  Lake;  where  he 
encamped  for  four  or  five  days,  that  he  might  examine  its  shores 
and  outlets.  The  latter,  he  found  extremely  muddy,  and  so  sur- 
rounded by  swamps  and  quagmires,  that  he  was  obliged  to  con- 
struct canoes  of  rushes,  with  which  to  explore  them.  The  mouths 
of  all  the  streams  which  fall  into  this  lake  from  the  west,  are 
marshy  and  inconsiderable ;  but  on  the  east  side,  there  is  a  beau- 
tiful beach,  broken,  occasionally,  by  high  and  isolated  bluffs, 
which  advance  upon  the  lake,  and  heighten  the  character  of  the 
scenery.  The  water  is  very  shallow,  but  abounds  with  trout,  and 
other  small  fish. 

Having  finished  his  survey  of  the  lake.  Captain  Bonneville 
proceeded  on  his  journey,  until  on  the  banks  of  the  Bear  River, 
some  distance  higher  up,  he  came  upon  the  party  which  he  had 
detached  a  year  before,  to  circumambulate  the  Great  Salt  Lake, 
and  ascertain  its  extent,  and  the  nature  of  its  shores.  They  had 
been  encamped  here  about  twenty  days ;  and  were  greatly  rejoiced 
at  meeting  once  more  with  their  comrades,  from  whom  they  had 


I  ) 


RRJOINS  ANOTHER  PARTY. 


335 


SO  long  been  separated.  The  first  inquiry  of  Captain  Bonneville, 
was  about  the  result  of  their  journey,  and  the  information  they 
had  procured  as  to  the  Great  Salt  Lake  ;  the  object  of  his  intense 
curiosity  and  ambition.  The  substance  of  their  report  will  bo 
found  in  the  following  chapter. 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


I   \i.i^ 


<-/  5^ 


CHAPTER  XXXVIII. 

Plan  of  the  Salt  Lake  expedition. — Grent  sandy  deserts. — Sufferings  from  thirst. 
— Ogden's  River. — Trails  and  smoke  of  lurking  savages. — Thefts  at  night. 
— A  trapper's  revenge. — Alarms  of  a  guilty  conscience  — A  murderous 
victory. — Cnlifornian  mountains. — Plains  along  the  Pacific. — Arrival  at 
Monterey — account  of  the  place  and  neighborhood. — Lower  California — 
its  extent. — The  peninsula — soil — climate — production  — Its  settlement  by 
the  Jesuits — their  sway  over  the  Indians — their  expulsion. — Ruins  of  a 
Missionary  establishment. — Sublime  scenery. — Upper  California. — Mis- 
sions— their  power  and  policy. — Resources  of  the  country. — Designs  of 
foreign  nations. 


It  was  on  the  24th  of  July,  in  the  preceding  year  (1833),  that 
the  brigade  of  forty  men  set  out  from  Green  River  valley,  to 
explore  the  Great  Salt  Lake.  They  were  to  make  the  complete 
circuit  of  it,  trapping  on  all  the  streams  which  should  fall  in 
their  way,  and  to  keep  journals  and  make  charts,  calqulated  to 
impart  a  knowledge  of  the  lake  and  the  surrounding  country. 
All  the  resources  of  Captain  Bonneville  had  been  tasked  to  fit 
out  this  favorite  exi)odition.  The  country  lying  to  the  southwest 
of  the  mountains,  and  ranging  down  to  California,  was  as  yet  al- 
most unknown ;  being  out  of  the  buffalo  range,  it  was  untraversed 
by  the  trapper,  who  preferred  those  parts  of  the  wilderness  where 
the  roaming  herds  of  that  species  of  animal  gave  him  compa- 


A  PARCHED   DESERT. 


327 


ratively  an  abundant  and  luxurious  life.  Still  it  was  said  the 
deer,  the  elk,  and  the  bighorn  were  to  be  found  there,  so  that, 
with  a  little  diligence  and  economy,  there  was  no  danger  of  lack- 
ing food.  As  a  precaution,  however,  the  party  halted  on  Bear 
River  and  hunted  for  a  few  days,  until  they  had  laid  in  a  supply 
of  dried  buffalo  meat  and  venison ;  they  then  passed  by  the  head 
waters  of  the  Cassie  River,  and  soon  found  themselves  launched 
on  an  immense  sandy  desert.  Southwardly,  on  their  left,  they 
beheld  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  spread  out  like  a  sea,  but  they  found 
no  stream  running  into  it.  A  desert  extended  around  them,  and 
stretched  to  the  southwest,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  rivalling 
the  desfc.ts  of  Asia  and  Africa  in  sterility.  There  was  neither 
tree,  nor  herbage,  nor  spring,  nor  pool,  nor  running  stream, 
nothing  but  parclied  wastes  of  sand,  where  horse  and  rider  were 
in  danger  of  perishing.  ■ 

Their  sufferings,  at  length,  became  so  great  that  they  aban- 
doned their  intended  course,  and  made  towards  a  range  of  snowy 
mountains,  brightening  in  the  north,  where  they  hoped  to  find 
water.  After  a  time,  they  came  upon  a  small  stream  leading 
directly  towards  these  mountains.  Having  quenched  their  burn- 
ing thirst,  and  refreshed  themselves  and  their  weary  horses  for  a 
time,  they  kept  along  this  stream,  which  gradually  increased  in 
size,  being  fed  by  numerous  brooks.  After  approaching  the 
mountains,  it  took  a  sweep  towards  the  southwest,  and  the 
travellers  still  kept  along  it,  trapping  beaver  as  they  went,  on 
the  flesh  of  which  they  subsisted  for  the  present,  husbanding 
their  dried  meat  for  future  necessities. 

The  stream  on  which  they  had  thus  fallen  is  called  by  some, 
Mary  River,  but  is  more  generally  known  as  Ogden's  River,  from 
Mr.  Peter  Ogden,  an  enterprising  and  intrepid  leader  of  tho 


328 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


Hudson's  Bay  Company,  who  first  explored  it.  The  wild  and 
half-desert  region  through  which  the  travellers  were  passing,  is 
wandered  over  by  hordes  of  Shoshokoes,  or  Root  Diggers,  the 
forlorn  branch  of  the  Snake  tribe.  They  are  a  shy  people,  prone 
to  keep  aloof  from  the  stranger.  The  travellers  frequently  met 
with  their  trails,  and  saw  the  smoke  of  their  fires  rising  in  vari- 
ous parts  of  the  vast  landscape,  so  that  they  knew  there  were 
great  numbers  in  the  neighborhood,  but  scarcely  ever  were  any 
of  them  to  be  met  with. 

After  a  time,  they  began  to  have  vexatious  proofs  that,  if  the 
Shoshokoes  were  quiet  by  day,  they  were  busy  at  night.  The 
camp  was  dogged  by  these  eavesdroppers ;  scarce  a  morning,  but 
various  articles  were  missing,  yet  nothing  could  be  seen  of  the 
marauders.  What  particularly  exasperated  the  hunters,  was  to 
have  their  traps  stolen  from  the  streams.  One  morning,  a  trap- 
per of  a  violent  and  savage  character,  discovering  that  his  traps 
had  been  carried  off  in  the  night,  took  a  horrid  oath  to  kill  the 
first  Indian  he  should  meet,  innocent  or  guilty.  As  he  was 
returning  with  his  comrades  to  camp,  he  beheld  two  unfortunate 
Diggers,  seated  on  the  river  bank,  fishing.  Advancing  upon 
them,  he  levelled  his  rifle,  shot  one  upon  the  spot,  and  flung  his 
bleeding  body  into  the  stream.  The  other  Indian  fled,  and  was 
suffered  to  escape.  Such  is  the  indifference  with  which  acts  of 
violence  are  regarded  in  the  wilderness,  and  such  the  immunity 
an  armed  ruffian  enjoys  beyond  the  barriers  of  the  laws,  that  the 
only  punishment  this  desperado  met  with,  was  a  rebuke  from  the 
leader  of  the  party. 

The  trappers  now  left  the  scene  of  this  infamous  tragedy,  and 
kept  on  westward,  down  the  course  of  the  river,  which  wound 
along  with  a  range  of  mountains  on  the  right  hand,  and  a  sandy, 


A  MASSACRE. 


339 


but  somewhat  fertile  plain,  on  the  left.  As  they  proceeded,  they 
beheld  columns  of  smoke  rising,  as  before,  in  various  directions, 
which  their  guilty  consciences  now  converted  into  alarm  signals, 
to  arouse  the  country  and  collect  the  scattered  bands  for  ven- 
geance. 

After  a  time,  the  natives  began  to  make  their  appearance, 
and  sometimes  in  considerable  numbers,  but  always  pacific ;  the 
trappers,  however,  suspected  them  of  deep-laid  plans  to  draw 
them  into  ambuscades ;  to  crowd  into  and  get  possession  of  their 
camp,  and  various  other  crafty  and  daring  conspiracies,  which,  it 
is  probable,  never  entered  into  the  heads  of  the  poor  savages. 
In  fact,  they  txn  simple,  timid,  inoflFensive  race,  unpractised  in 
warfare,  and  s'  j  ^.  ovided  with  any  weapons,  excepting  for  the 
chase.  Their  lives  are  passed  in  the  great  sand  plains  and  along 
the  adjacent  rivers;  they  subsist  sometimes  on  fish,  at  other 
times  on  roots  and  the  seeds  of  a  plant,  called  the  cat's-tail. 
They  are  of  the  same  kind  of  people  that  Captain  Bonneville 
found  upon  Snake  Biver,  and  whom  he  found  so  mild  and 
inoffensive. 

The  trappers,  however,  had  persuaded  themselves  that  they 
were  making  their  way  through  a  hostile  country,  and  that 
implacable  foes  hung  round  their  camp  or  beset  their  path, 
watching  for  an  opportunity  to  surprise  them.  At  length,  one 
day  they  came  to  the  banks  of  a  stream  emptying  into  Ogden's 
River,  which  they  were  obliged  to  ford.  Here  a  great  number 
of  Shoshokoes  were  posted  on  the  opposite  bank.  Persuaded 
they  were  there  with  hostile  intent,  they  advanced  upon  them, 
levelled  their  rifles,  and  killed  twenty-five  of  them  upon  the  spot. 
The  rest  fled  to  a  short  distance,  then  halted  and  turned  about, 
howling  and  whining  like  wolves,  and  uttering  the  most  piteous 


330 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


:  .' 


''If' 

it 

ilif 


wailings.  The  trappers  chased  them  in  every  direction ;  the 
poor  wretches  made  no  defence,  but  fled  with  terror;  neither 
does  it  appear  from  the  accounts  of  the  boasted  victors,  that  a 
weapon  had  been  wielded  or  a  weapon  launched  by  the  Indians 
throughout  the  affair.  We  feel  perfectly  convinced  that  the 
poor  savages  had  no  hostile  intention,  but  had  merely  gathered 
together  through  motives  of  curiosity,  as  others  of  their  tribe  had 
done  when  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  companions  passed  along 
Snake  River. 

The  trappers  continued  down  Ogden's  River,  until  they 
ascertained  that  it  lost  itself  in  a  great  swampy  lake,  to  which 
there  was  no  apparent  discharge.  They  then  struck  directly 
westward,  across  the  great  chain  of  Californian  mountains  inter- 
vening between  these  interior  plains  and  the  shores  of  the  Pacific, 

For  three  and  twenty  days  they  were  entangled  among  these 
mountains,  the  peaks  and  ridges  of  which  are  in  many  places 
covered  with  perpetual  snow.  Their  passes  and  defiles  present 
the  wildest  scenery,  partaking  of  the  sublime  rather  than  the 
beautiful,  and  abounding  with  frightful  precipices.  The  suffer- 
ings of  the  travellers  among  these  savage  mountains  were  ex- 
treme :  for  a  part  of  the  time  they  were  nearly  starved ;  at  length, 
they  made  their  way  through  them,  and  came  down  upon  the 
plains  of  New  California,  a  fertile  region  extending  along  the 
coast,  with  magnificent  forests,  verdant  savannas,  and  prairies 
that  look  like  stately  parks.  Here  they  found  deer  and  other 
game  in  abundance,  and  indemnified  themselves  for  past  famine. 
They  now  turned  towards  the  south,  and  passing  numerous  small 
bands  of  natives,  posted  upon  various  streams,  arrived  at  the 
Spanish  village  and  post  of  Monterey. 

This  is  a  small  place,  containing  about  two  hundred  houses, 


PENINSULA  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


331 


situated  in  latitude  37°  north.  It  has  a  capacious  bay,  with  in- 
different anchorage.  The  surrounding  country  is  extremely  fer- 
tile, especially  in  the  valleys  ;  the  soil  is  richer,  the  further  you 
penetrate  into  the  interior,  and  the  climate  is  described  as  a 
perpetual  spring.  Indeed,  all  California,  extending  along  the 
Pacific  Ocean  from  latitude  19°  30^  to  42°  north,  is  represented 
as  one  of  *he  most  fertile  and  beautiful  regions  in  North 
America. 

Lower  California,  in  length  about  seven  hundred  miles,  forms 
a  great  peninsula,  which  crosses  the  tropics  and  terminates  in  the 
torrid  zone.  It  is  separated  from  the  mainland  by  the  Grulf  of 
California,  sometimes  called  the  Vermilion  Sea ;  into  this  gulf 
empties  the  Colorado  of  the  West,  the  Seeds-ke-dee,  or  Green 
River,  as  it  is  also  sometimes  called.  The  peninsula  is  traversed 
by  stern  and  barren  mountains,  and  has  many  sandy  plains, 
where  the  only  signs  of  vegetation  is  the  cylindrical  cactus  grow- 
ing among  the  clefts  of  the  rocks.  Wherever  there  is  water, 
however,  and  vegetable  mould,  the  ardent  nature  of  the  climate 
quickens  every  thing  into  astonishing  fertility.  There  are  val- 
leys luxuriant  with  the  rich  and  beautiful  productions  of  the 
tropics.  There  the  sugar-cane  and  indigo  plant  attain  a  perfec- 
tion unequalled  in  any  other  part  of  North  Americr..  There 
flourish  the  olive,  the  fig,  the  date,  the  orange,  the  citron,  the 
pomegranate,  and  other  fruits  belonging  to  the  voluptuous  cli- 
mates of  the  south ;  with  grapes  in  abundance,  that  yield  a 
generous  wine.  In  the  interior  are  salt  plains  ;  silver  mines  and 
scanty  veins  of  gold  are  said,  likewise,  to  exist ;  and  pearls  of  a 
beautiful  water  are  to  be  fished  upon  the  coast. 

The  peninsula  of  California  was  settled  in  1G98,  by  the  Je- 
suits, who,  certainly,  as  far  as  the  natives  were  concerned,  have 


332 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


I'  '4 


II    'I     r,ir H' 


generally  proved  the  most  beneficent  of  colonists.  In  the  pre- 
sent instance,  they  gained  and  maintained  a  footing  in  the  coun- 
try without  the  aid  of  military  force,  but  solely  by  religious 
influence.  They  formed  a  treaty,  and  entered  into  the  most 
amicable  relations  with  the  natives,  then  numbering  from  twenty- 
five  to  thirty  thousand  souls,  and  gained  a  hold  upon  their  affec- 
tions, and  a  control  over  their  minds,  that  effected  a  complete 
change  in  their  condition.  They  built  eleven  missionary  estab- 
lishments in  the  various  valleys  of  the  peninsula,  which  formed 
rallying  places  for  the  surrounding  savages,  where  they  gathered 
together  as  sheep  into  the  fold,  and  surrendered  themselves  and 
their  consciences  into  the  hands  of  these  spiritual  pastors.  No- 
thing, wfc  are  told,  could  exceed  the  implicit  and  affectionate 
devotion  of  the  Indian  converts  to  the  Jesuit  fathers,  and  the 
Catholic  faith  was  disseminated  widely  through  the  wilder- 
ness. 

The  growing  power  and  influence  of  the  Jesuits  in  the  New 
World,  at  length  excited  the  jealousy  of  the  Spanish  government, 
and  they  were  banished  from  the  colonies.  The  governor,  who 
arrived  at  California  to  expel  them,  and  to  take  charge  of  the 
country,  expected  to  find  a  rich  and  powerful  fraternity,  with  im- 
mense treasures  hoarded  in  their  missions,  and  an  army  of  Indians 
ready  to  defend  them.  On  the  contrary,  he  beheld  a  few  vener- 
able silver-haired  priests  coming  humbly  forward  to  meet  him, 
followed  by  a  throng  of  weeping,  but  submissive  natives.  The 
heart  of  the  governor,  it  is  said,  was  so  touched  by  this  unex- 
pected sight,  that  he  shed  tears  ;  but  he  had  to  execute  his  orders. 
The  Jesuits  were  accompanied  to  the  place  of  their  embarkation 
by  their  simple  and  affectionate  parishioners,  who  took  leave  of 
them  with  tears  and  sobs.     Many  of  the  latter  abandoned  their 


1,1 


UPPER  CALIFORNIA. 


hereditary  abodes,  and  wandered  off  to  join  their  southern  breth- 
ren, so  that  but  a  remnant  remained  in  the  peninsula.  The 
Franciscans  immediately  succeeded  the  Jesuits,  and  subsequently 
the  Dominicans  ;  but  the  latter  manago<1  heir  affairs  ill.  But 
two  of  the  missionary  establishments  are  at  present  occupied  by 
priests ;  the  rest  are  all  in  ruins,  excepting  one,  which  remains  a 
monument  of  the  former  power  and  prosperity  of  the  order. 
This  is  a  noble  edifice,  once  the  seat  of  the  chief  of  the  resident 
Jesuits.  It  is  situated  in  a  beautiful  valley,  about  half  way  be- 
tween the  Gulf  of  California  and  the  broad  ocean,  the  peninsula 
being  here  about  sixty  miles  wide.  The  edifice  is  of  hewn  stone, 
one  story  high,  two  hundred  and  ten  feet  in  front,  and  about 
fifty-five  feet  deep.  The  walls  are  six  feet  thick,  and  sixteen 
feet  high,  with  a  vaulted  roof  of  stone,  about  two  feet  and  a  half 
in  thickness.  It  is  now  abandoned  and  desolate  ;  the  beautiful 
valley  is  without  an  inhabitant — not  a  human  being  resides  within 
thirty  miles  of  the  place  ! 

In  approaching  this  deserted  mission-house  from  the  south, 
the  traveller  passes  over  the  mountain  of  San  Juan,  supposed  to 
be  the  highest  peak  in  the  Californias.  From  this  lofty  eminence, 
a  vast  and  magnificent  prospect  unfolds  itself ;  the  great  Gulf  of 
California,  with  the  dark  blue  sea  beyond,  studded  with  islands  ; 
and  in  another  direction,  the  immense  lava  plain  of  San  Gabriel. 
The  splendor  of  the  climate  gives  an  Italian  effect  to  the  immense 
prospect.  The  sky  is  of  a  deep  blue  color,  and  the  sunsets  are 
often  magnificent  beyond  description.  Such  is  a  slight  and  im- 
perfect sketch  of  this  remarkable  peninsula. 

Upper  California  extends  from  latitude  31°  10^  to  42°  on  the 
Pacific,  and  inland,  to  the  great  chain  of  snow-capped  mountains 
which  divide  it  from  the  sand  plains  of  the  interior.     There  are 


I  , 


IM 


it 
I 


m 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


about  twenty-one  missions  in  this  province,  most  of  which  were 
established  about  fifty  years  since,  and  are  generally  under  the 
care  of  the  Franciscans.  These  exert  a  protecting  sway  over 
about  thirty-five  thousand  Indian  converts,  who  reside  on  the 
lands  around  -the  mission  houses.  Each  of  these  houses  has 
fifteen  miles  square  of  land  allotted  to  it,  subdivided  into  small 
lots,  proportioned  to  the  number  of  Indian  converts  attached  to 
the  mission.  Some  are  inclosed  with  high  walls  ;  but  in  general 
they  are  open  hamlets,  composed  of  rows  of  huts,  built  of  sun- 
burnt bricks ;  in  some  instances  whitewashed  and  roofed  with 
tiles.  Many  of  them  are  far  in  the  interior,  beyond  the  reach  of 
all  military  protection,  and  dependent  entirely  on  the  good  will 
of  the  natives,  which  never  fails  them.  They  have  made  consid- 
erable progress  in  teaching  the  Indians  the  useful  arts.  There 
are  native  tanners,  shoemakers,  weavers,  blacksmiths,  stonecut- 
ters, and  other  artificers  attached  to  each  establishment.  Others 
are  taught  husbandry,  and  the  rearing  of  cattle  and  horses  ;  while 
the  females  card  and  spin  wool,  weave,  and  perform  the  other  du- 
ties allotted  to  their  sex  in  civilized  life.  No  social  intercourse 
is  allowed  between  the  unmarried  of  the  opposite  sexes  after 
working  hours  ;  and  at  night  they  are  locked  up  in  separate  apart- 
ments, and  the  keys  delivered  to  the  priests. 

The  produce  of  the  lands,  and  all  the  profits  arising  from 
sales,  are  entirely  at  the  disposal  of  the  priests  ;  whatever  is  not 
required  for  the  support  of  the  missions,  goes  to  augment  a  fund 
which  is  under  their  control.  Hides  and  tallow  constitute  the 
principal  riches  of  the  missions,  and,  indeed,  the  main  commerce 
of  the  country.  Grain  might  be  produced  to  an  unlimited  extent 
at  the  establishments,  were  there  a  sufficient  market  for  it.  Olives 
and  grapes  are  also  reared  at  the  missions. 


I  I 


PRODUCE,  CATTLE,  PORTS. 


335 


nt.     Others 


Horses  and  horned  cattle  abound  throughout  all  this  region  ; 
the  former  may  be  purchased  at  from  three  to  five  dollars,  but 
they  are  of  an  inferior  breed.  Mules,  which  are  here  of  a 
large  size  and  of  valuable  qualities,  cost  from  seven  to  ten 
dollars. 

There  are  several  excellent  ports  along  this  coast.  San  Diego, 
San  Barbara,  Monterey,  the  bay  of  San  Francisco,  and  the 
northern  port  of  Bondago ;  all  afford  anchorage  for  ships  of  the 
largest  class.  The  port  of  San  Francisco  is  too  well  known  to 
require  much  notice  in  this  place.  The  entrance  from  the  sea  is 
sixty-seven  fathoms  deep,  and  within,  whole  navies  might  ride 
with  perfect  safety.  Two  large  rivers,  which  take  their  rise  in 
mountains  two  or  three  hundred  miles  to  the  east,  and  run 
through  a  country  unsurpassed  for  soil  and  climate,  empty  them- 
selves into  the  harbor.  The  country  around  affords  admirable 
timber  for  ship-building.  In  a  word,  this  favored  port  combines 
advantages  which  not  only  fit  it  for  a  grand  naval  dt'pdt.  but 
almost  render  it  capable  of  being  made  the  dominant  military 
post  of  these  seas. 

Such  is  a  feeble  outline  of  the  Californian  coast  and  country, 
the  value  of  which  is  more  and  more  attracting  the  attention  of 
naval  powers.  The  Russians  have  always  a  ship  of  war  upon 
this  station,  and  have  already  encroached  upon  the  Californian 
boundaries,  by  taking  possession  of  the  port  of  Bondago,  and 
fortifying  it  with  several  guns.  Recent  surveys  have  likewise 
been  made,  both  by  the  Russians  and  the  English  ;  and  we  have 
little  doubt,  that  at  no  very  distant  day,  this  neglected,  and,  until 
recently,  almost  unknown  region,  will  be  found  to  possess  sources 
of  wealth  suflficient  to  sustain  a  powerful  and  prosperous  empire. 
Its  inhabitants,  themselves,  are  but  little  aware  of  its  real  riches ; 


iV-^ 


li.!} 


K. 


!■: 


336 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


they  have  not  enterprise  sufficient  to  acquaint  themselves  with  a 
vast  interior  that  lies  almost  a  terra  incognita ;  nor  have  they  the 
skill  and  industry  to  cultivate  properly  the  fertile  tracts  along 
the  coast ;  nor  to  prosecute  that  foreign  commerce  which  brings 
all  the  resources  of  a  country  into  profitable  action. 


ii, 


MEXICAN  HORSEMEN. 


337 


Ives  with  a 
ve  they  the 
raots  along 
lich  brings 


x^jiij^j''^-^' 


CHAPTER  XXXIX. 

Gay  life  at  Monterey. — Mexican  horsemen. — A  bold  dragoon. — Use  of  the 
laso. — Vaqueros. — Noosing  a  bear. — Fight  between  a  bull  and  a  bear. — 
Departure  from  Monterey. — Indian  horse -stealers. — Outrages  committed  by 
the  travellers. — Indignation  of  Captain  Bonneville. 


The  wandering  band  of  trappers  were  well  received  at  Monterey : 
the  inhabitants  were  desirous  of  retaining  them  among  them,  and 
oflFered  extravagant  wages  to  such  as  were  acquainted  with  any 
mechanic  art.  When  they  went  into  the  country,  too,  they  were 
kindly  treated  by  the  priests  at  the  missions  ;  who  are  always 
hospitable  to  strangers,  whatever  may  be  their  rank  or  religion. 
They  had  no  lack  of  provisions  ;  being  permitted  to  kill  as  many 
as  they  pleased  of  the  vast  herds  of  cattle  that  graze  the  country, 
on  condition,  merely,  of  rendering  the  hides  to  the  owners.  They 
attended  bull-fights  and  horseraces ;  forgot  all  the  purposes  of 
their  expedition  ;  squandered  away,  freely,  the  property  that  did 
not  belong  to  them ;  and,  in  a  word,  revelled  in  a  perfect  fool's 
paradise. 

What  especially  delighted  them,  was  the  equestrian  skill  of 
the  Californians.  The  vast  number  and  the  cheapness  of  the 
horses  in  this  country,  makes  every  one  a  cavalier.  The  Mexi- 
cans and  half-breeds  of  California,  spend  the  greater  part  of  their 
time  in  the  saddle.     They  are  fearless  riders  ;  and  their  daring 

15 


# 


338 


BONNEVILLR'S  ADVENTURES. 


I 


m 


B 


I 


feats  upon  unbrokon  colts  mid  wild  liorscs,  astonished  our  trap- 
pers ;  though  acfUHtouiod  to  the  bold  riders  of  the  prairies. 

A  Mexican  horseman  has  much  resemblance,  in  nuuiy  points, 
to  the  ecpjcstrians  of  Old  Spain ;  and  especially  to  the  vain- 
glorious Caballcro  of  Andalusia.  A  Mexican  dragoon,  for  in- 
stance, is  represented  as  arrayed  in  a  round  blue  jacket,  with  red 
cuffs  and  collar ;  blue  velvet  breeches,  unbuttoned  at  the  knees 
to  show  his  white  stockings ;  bottinas  of  deer  skin  ;  a  round- 
crowned  Andalusian  hat,  and  his  hair  cued.  On  the  pommel 
of  his  saddle,  he  carries  balanced  a  long  musket,  with  fox  skin 
round  the  lock.  He  is  eased  in  a  cuirass  of  double-fold  deer 
skin,  and  carries  a  bull's  hide  shield ;  ho  is  forked  in  a  Moorish 
saddle,  high  before  and  behind  ;  his  feet  are  thrust  into  wooden 
box  stirrups,  of  Moorish  fashion,  and  a  tremendous  pair  of  iron 
spurs,  fastened  by  ciiains,  jingle  at  his  heels.  Thus  equipped, 
and  suitably  mounted,  he  considers  himself  the  glory  of  Califor- 
nia, and  the  terror  of  the  universe. 

The  Californian  horsemen  seldom  ride  out  without  the  laso ; 
that  is  to  say,  a  long  coil  of  cord,  with  a  slip  noose ;  with  which 
they  are  expert,  almost  to  a  miracle.  The  laso,  now  almost  en- 
tirely confined  to  Spanish  America,  is  said  to  be  of  great  anti- 
quity ;  and  to  have  come,  originally,  from  the  East.  It  was  used, 
we  are  told,  by  a  pastoral  people  of  Persian  descent ;  of  whom 
eight  thousand  accompanied  the  army  of  Xerxes.  By  the  Span- 
ish Americans,  it  is  used  for  a  variety  of  purposes ;  and  among 
others,  for  hauling  wood.  Without  dismounting,  they  cast  the 
noose  round  a  log,  and  thus  drag  it  to  their  houses.  The  vaque- 
ros,  or  Indian  cattle  drivers,  have  also  learnt  the  use  of  the  laso 
from  the  Spaniards ;  and  employ  it  to  catch  the  half-wild  cattle, 
by  throwing  it  round  their  horns. 


n 


THK  LASO.— A  BULL  AND  BEAR  FIUIIT. 


339 


for  in- 


Tlio  Iftso  \»  also  of  great  use  in  furnishing  tlio  public  with  a 
favorite,  though  barbarous  sport ;  the  combat  between  a  bear  and 
a  wild  bull.  For  this  purpose,  three  or  four  horsemen  sally  forth 
to  some  wood,  fre(iuonted  by  bears,  and,  depositing  the  carcass  of 
a  bullock,  hide  themselves  in  the  vicinity.  The  beai.-  ore  so  m 
attracted  by  the  bait.  A.<  soon  as  one,  fit  for  their  ,.urpr.;o.  makos 
his  appearance,  they  run  out,  and  with  the  laso,  dt  ;<erou.siy  noop', 
him  by  either  leg.  After  dragging  him  at  full  speo ''.  until  Jio  is 
fatigued,  they  secure  him  more  effectually;  and  ty'ntjhim  on  i-he 
carcass  of  the  bullock,  draw  him  in  triumph  to  thii  sccnft  of  action. 
By  this  time,  he  is  exasperated  to  such  f) '  n»y,  ihwt  tliey  a/o 
sometimes  obliged  to  throw  cold  water  on  hiui,  tj  modeii'  o  (is 
fury ;  and  dangerous  would  it  be,  for  horse  and  rider,  were  ho, 
while  in  this  paroxysm,  to  break  his  bonds. 

A  will  bull,  of  the  fiercest  kind,  which  has  been  r  auglit  and 
exasperated  in  the  same  manner,  is  now  produced ,  and  both 
animals  are  turned  loose  in  the  arena  of  a  small  aruphitlicaivo. 
The  mortal  fight  begins  instantly ;  and  always,  at  first,  to  the 
disadvantage  of  Bruin ;  fatigued,  as  he  is,  by  his  previous  rough 
riding.  Roused,  at  length,  by  the  repeated  gorir.goC  the  bu'lhe 
seizes  his  muzzle  with  his  sharp  claws,  and  clinging  to  this  most 
sensitive  part,  causes  him  to  bellow  with  rage  and  *vgonj.  .In  his 
heat  and  fury,  the  bull  lolls  out  his  tonjYue;  this  is  instantly 
clutched  by  the  bear;  with  a  desperato  f'Tort  he  overturns  his 
huge  antagonist ;  and  then  dispatohii-i  him  without  difl&culty. 

Beside  this  diversipn  the  travellers  were  likewise  regaled 
with  buU-figlit s,  in  the  genuine  style  of  Old  Spain ;  the  Califor- 
nians  being  considered  the  best  bull-fighters  in  the  Mexican 
dominions. 

After  a  considerable  sojourn  at  Monterey,  spent  in  these  very 


;j2*^ 


■f4     th 


^^ 


I 


ti' 


'i' 


i 


340 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


edifying,  but  not  very  profitable  amusements,  the  leader  of  this 
vagabon  1  party  set  out  with  his  comrades,  on  his  return  journey. 
Instea^l  of  retracing  their  steps  through  the  mountains,  they 
passed  round  their  southern  extremity,  and,  crossing  a  range  of 
low  hills,  found  themselves  in  the  sandy  plains  south  of  Ogden's 
River ;  in  traversing  which,  they  again  suffered,  grievously,  for 
want  of  water. 

In  the  course  of  their  journey,  they  encountered  a  party  of 
Mexicans  in  pursuit  of  a  gang  of  natives,  who  had  been  stealing 
horses.  The  savages  of  this  part  of  California  are  represented 
as  extremely  poor,  and  armed  only  with  stone-pointed  arrows ;  it 
being  the  wise  policy  of  the  Spaniards  not  to  furnish  them  with 
firearms.  As  they  find  it  difficult,  with  their  blunt  shafts,  to  kill 
the  wild  game  of  the  mountains,  they  occasionally  supply  them- 
selves with  food,  by  entrapping  the  Spanish  horses.  Driving 
them  stealthily  into  fastnesses  and  ravines,  they  slaughter  them 
without  difficulty,  and  dry  their  flesh  for  provisions.  Some  they 
carry  off,  to  trade  with  distant  tribes;  and  in  this  way,  the 
Spanish  horses  pass  from  hand  to  hand  among  the  Indians,  until 
they  even  find  their  way  across  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

The  Mexicans  are  continually  on  the  alert,  to  intercept  these 
marauders ;  but  the  Indians  are  apt  to  outwit  them,  and  force 
them  to  make  long  and  wild  expeditions  in  pursuit  of  their  stolen 
horses. 

Two  of  the  Mexican  party  just  mentioned,  joined  the  band  of 
trappers,  and  proved  themselves  worthy  companions.  In  the 
course  of  their  journey  through  the  country  frequented  by  the 
poor  Root  Diggers,  there  seems  to  have  been  an  emulation  be- 
tween them,  which  could  inflict  the  greatest  outrages  upon  the 
uatives.     The  trappers  still  considered  them  in  the  light  of  dan- 


FAILURE  OF  THE  EXPEDITION. 


341 


gerous  foes  ;  and  the  Mexicans,  very  probably,  charged  them  with 
the  sin  of  horse-stealing ;  we  have  no  other  mode  of  accounting 
for  the  infamous  barbarities  of  which,  according  to  their  own 
Story,  they  were  guilty ;  hunting  the  poor  Indians  like  wild 
beasts,  and  killing  them  without  mercy.  The  Mexicans  excelled 
at  this  savage  sport ;  chasing  their  unfortunate  victims  at  full 
speed ;  noosing  them  round  the  neck  with  their  lasos,  and  then 
dragging  them  to  death  !    - 

Such  are  the  scanty  details  of  this  most  disgraceful  expedi- 
tion; at  least,  such  are  all  that  Captain  Bonneville  had  the 
patience  to  collect ;  for  he  was  so  deeply  grieved  by  the  failure 
of  his  plans,  and  so  indignant  at  the  atrocities  related  to  him, 
that  ho  turned,  with  disgust  and  horror,  from  the  narrators. 
Had  he  exerted  a  little  of  the  Lynch  law  of  the  wilderness,  and 
hanged  those  dexterous  horsemen  in  their  own  lasos,  it  would  but 
have  been  a  well-merited  and  salutary  act  of  retributive  justice. 
The  failure  of  this  expedition  was  a  blow  to  his  pride,  and  a  still 
greater  blow  to  his  purse.  The  Great  Salt  Lake  still  remained 
unexplored ;  at  the  same  time,  the  means  which  had  been  fur- 
nished so  liberally  to  fit  out  this  favorite  expedition,  had  all  been 
squandered  at  Monterey ;  and  the  peltries,  also,  which  had  been 
collected  on  the  way  He  would  have  but  scanty  returns,  there- 
fore, to  make  this  year,  to  his  associates  in  the  United  States ; 
and  there  was  great  danger  of  their  becoming  disheartened, 
and  abandoning  the  enterprise. 


II 


342 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


I 

^1 


CHAPTER  XL. 

Travellers*  tales. — Indian  lurkers. — Prognostics  of  Buckeye. — Signs  and  por- 
tents.— The  medicine  wolf. — An  alarm. — An  ambush. — The  captured 
provant. — Triumph  of  Buckeye. — Arrival  of  supplies. — Grand  carouse.^ 
Arrangements  for  the  year. — Mr.  Wyeth  and  his  new-levied  band. 

The  horror  and  indignation  felt  by  Captain  Bonneville  at  the 
excesses  of  the  Californiar).  adventurers,  were  not  participated  by 
his  men ;  on  the  contrary,  the  events  of  that  expedition  were 
favorite  themes  in  the  camp.  The  heroes  of  Monterey  bore  the 
palm  in  all  the  gossipings  among  the  hunters.  Their  glowing 
descriptions  of  Spanish  bear-baits  and  bull-fights  especially,  were 
listened  to  with  intense  delight ;  and  had  another  expedition  to 
California  been  proposed,  the  difficulty  would  have  been,  to 
restrain  a  general  eagerness  to  volunteer. 

The  captain  had  not  been  long  at  the  rendezvous  when  he 
perceived,  by  various  signs,  that  Indians  were  lurking  in  the 
neighborhood.  It  was  evident  that  the  Blackfoot  band,  which  he 
had  seen  when  on  his  march,  had  dogged  his  party,  and  were 
intent  on  mischief  He  endeavored  to  keep  his  camp  on  the 
alert ;  but  it  is  as  difficult  to  maintain  discipline  among  trappers 
at  a  rendezvous,  as  among  sailors  when  in  port. 

Buckeye,  the  Delaware  Indian,  was  scandalized  at  this  heed- 
lessness of  the  hunters  when  an  enemy  was  at  hand,  and  was 


(  1 


SIGNS  AND  PORTENTS. 


343 


continually  preaching  up  caution.  He  was  a  littlo  prone  to  play 
the  prophet,  and  to  deal  in  signs  and  portents,  which  occasionally 
excited  the  merriment  of  hia  white  comrades.  He  was  a  great 
dreamer,  and  believed  in  charms  and  talismans,  or  medicines,  and 
could  foretell  the  approach  of  strangers  by  the  howling  or  barking 
of  the  small  prairie  wolf  This  animal,  being  drivqn  by  the 
larger  wolves  from  the  carcasses  left  on  the  hunting  grounds  by 
the  hunters,  follows  the  trail  of  the  fresh  meat  carried  to  the 
camp.  Here  the  smell  of  the  roast  and  broiled,  mingling  with 
every  breeze,  keeps  them  hovering  about  the  neighborhood ; 
scenting  every  blast,  turning  up  their  noses  like  hungry  hounds, 
and  testifying  their  pinching  hunger  by  long  whining  howls,  and 
impatient  barkings.  These  are  interpreted  by  the  superstitious 
Indians  into  warnings  that  strangers  are  at  hand  ;  and  one 
accidental  coincidence,  like  the  chance  fulfilment  of  an  Almanac 
prediction,  is  sufficient  to  cover  a  thousand  failures.  This  little, 
whining,  feast-smelling  animal  is,  therefore,  called  among  Indians 
the  "medicine  wolf;"  and  such  was  one  of  Buckeye's  infallible 
oracles. 

One  morning  early,  the  soothsaying  Delaware  appeared  with 
a  gloomy  countenance.  His  mind  was  full  of  dismal  presenti- 
ments, whether  from  mysterious  dreams,  or  the  intimations  of 
the  medicine  wolf,  does  not  appear.  "  Danger,"  he  said,  "  was 
lurking  in  their  path,  and  there  would  be  some  fighting  before 
sunset."  He  was  bantered  for  his  prophecy,  which  was  attributed 
to  his  having  supped  too  heartily,  and  been  visited  by  bad  dreams. 
In  the  course  of  the  morning,  a  party  of  hunters  set  out  in  pur- 
suit of  bufialo,  taking  with  them  a  mule,  to  bring  home  the  meat 
they  should  procure.  They  had  been  some  few  hours  absent, 
when  they  came  clattering  at  full  speed  into  camp,  giving  the 


344 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


war  cry  of  Blackfeet !  Blackfeet !  Every  one  seized  his  weapon, 
and  ran  to  learn  the  cause  of  the  alarm.  It  appeared  that  the 
hunters,  as  they  were  returning  leisurely,  leading  their  mule, 
well  laden  with  prime  pieces  of  buffalo  meat,  passed  close  by  a 
small  stream  overhung  with  trees,  about  two  miles  fr'^'u  the  camp. 
Suddenly,  a  party  of  Blackfeet,  who  lay  in  ambush  among  the 
thickets,  sprang  up  with  a  fearful  yell,  and  discharged  a  volley 
at  the  hunters.  The  latter  immediately  threw  themselves  flat  on 
their  horses,  put  them  to  their  speed,  and  never  paused  to  look 
behind,  until  they  found  themselves  in  camp.  Fortunately, 
they  had  escaped  without  a  wound ;  but  the  mule,  with  all  the 
"  provant,"  had  fallen  into  the  hands  of  the  enemy.  This  was  a 
loss,  as  well  as  an  insult,  not  to  be  boruc.  Every  man  sprang  to 
horse,  and  with  rifle  in  hand,  galloped  off  to  punish  the  Blackfeet, 
and  rescue  the  buffalo  beef  They  came  too  late ;  the  marauders 
were  off,  and  all  that  they  found  of  their  mule  were  the  dents  of 
his  hoofs,  as  he  had  been  conveyed  off  at  a  round  trot,  bearing 
his  savory  cargo  to  the  hills,  to  furnish  the  scampering  savages 
with  a  banquet  of  roast  meat  at  the  expense  of  the  white  men. 

The  party  returned  to  camp,  balked  of  their  revenge,  but 
still  more  grievously  balked  of  their  supper.  Buckeye,  the 
Delaware,  sat  smoking  by  his  fire,  perfectly  composed.  As  the 
hunters  related  the  particulars  of  the  attack,  he  listened  in 
silence,  with  unruitied  countenance,  then  pointing  to  the  west, 
"  The  sun  has  not  yet  set,"  said  he ;  "  Buckeye  did  not  dream 
like  a  fool!" 

All  present  now  recollected  the  prediction  of  the  Indian  at 
daybreak,  ;i-nd  were  struck  with  what  appeared  to  be  its  fulfil- 
ment. They  called  to  mind,  also,  a  long  catalogue  of  foregone 
presentiments  and  predictions  made  at  various  times  by  the 


I  I 


ARRIVAL  OF  SUPPLIES. 


345 


Delaware,  and,  in  their  superstitious  credulity,  began  to  consider 
him  a  veritable  seer;  without  thinking  how  natural  it  was  to 
predict  danger,  and  how  likely  to  have  the  prediction  verified  in 
the  present  instance,  when  various  signs  gave  evidence  of  a 
lurking  foe.  ' 

The  various  bands  of  Captain  Bonneville's  company  had  now 
been  assembled  for  some  time  at  the  rendezvous ;  they  had  had 
their  fill  of  feasting,  and  frolicking,  and  all  the  species  of  wild 
and  often  uncouth  merry-making,  which  invariably  take  place  on 
these  occasions.  Their  horses,  as  well  as  themselves,  had  re- 
covered from  past  famine  and  fatigue,  and  were  again  fit  for 
active  service;  and  an  impatience  began  to  manifest  itself 
among  the  men  once  more  to  take  the  field,  and  set  off  on  some 
wandering  expedition. 

At  this  juncture,  Mr.  Cerre  arrived  at  the  rendezvous  at  the 
head  of  a  supply  party,  bringing  goods  and  equipments  from  the 
States.  This  active  leader,  it  will  be  recollected,  had  embarked 
the  year  previously  in  skin-boats  on  the  Bighorn,  freighted  with 
the  year's  collection  of  peltries.  He  had  met  with  misfortunes 
in  the  course  of  his  voyage :  one  of  his  frail  barks  being  upset, 
and  part  of  the  furs  lost  or  damaged. 

The  arrival  of  the  supplies  gave  the  regular  finish  to  the 
annual  revel,  A  grand  outbreak  of  vild  debauch  ensued  among 
the  mountaineers ;  drinking,  dancing,  swaggering,  gambling, 
quarrelling,  and  fighting.  Alcohol,  which,  from  its  portable 
qualities,  containing  the  greatest  quantity  of  fiery  spirit  in  the 
smallest  compass,  is  the  only  liquor  carried  across  the  mountains, 
is  the  inflammatory  beverage  at  these  carousals,  and  is  dealt  out 
to  the  trappers  at  four  dollars  a  pint.  When  inflamed  by  this 
fiery  beverage,  they  cut  all  kinds  of  mad  pranks  and  gambols, 

15* 


346 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


and  sometimes  burn  all  their  clothes  in  ..heir  drunken  bravadoes. 
A  camp,  recovering  from  one  of  these  riotous  revels,  presents  a 
serio-comic  spectacle ;  black  eyes,  broken  heads,  lacklustre  vis- 
ages. Many  of  the  trappers  have  squandered  in  one  drunken 
frolic  the  hard-earned  wages  of  a  year  ;  some  have  run  in  debt, 
and  must  toil  on  to  pay  for  past  pleasure.  All  are  sated  with 
this  deep  draught  of  pleasure,  and  eager  to  commence  another 
trapping  campaign  ;  for  hardship  and  hard  work,  spiced  with  the 
stimulants  of  wild  adventure,  and  topped  off  with  an  annual 
frantic  carousal,  is  the  lot  of  the  restless  trapper. 

The  captain  now  made  his  arrangements  for  the  current  year. 
Cerre  and  Walker,  with  a  number  of  men  who  had  been  to  Cali- 
xornia,  were  to  proceed  to  St.  Louis  with  the  packages  of  furs 
collected  during  the  past  year.  Another  party,  headed  by  a 
leader  named  Montero,  was  to  proceed  to  the  Crow  country,  trap 
upon  its  various  streams,  and  among  the  Black  Hills,  and  thence 
to  proceed  to  the  Arkansas,  where  he  was  to  go  into  winter 
quarters. 

The  captain  marked  out  for  himself  a  widely  different  course. 
He  intended  to  make  another  expedition,  with  twenty-three  men, 
to  the  lower  part  of  the  Columbia  River,  and  to  proceed  to  the 
valley  of  the  Multnomah ;  after  wintering  in  those  parts,  and 
establishing  a  trade  with  those  tribes,  among  whom  he  had  so- 
journed on  his  first  visit,  he  would  return  in  the  spring,  cross 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  join  Montero  and  his  party  in  the 
month  of  July,  at  the  rendezvous  of  the  Arkansas  ;  where  he 
expected  to  receive  his  annual  supplies  from  the  States. 

If  the  reader  will  cast  his  eye  upon  a  map,  he  may  form  an 
idea  of  the  contempt  for  distance  which  a  man  acquires  in  this 
vast  wilderness,  by  noticing  the  extent  of  country  comprised  in 


I  I 


EXPEDITION   OF  WYETH. 


347 


these  projected  wanderings.  Just  as  the  different  parties  were 
about  to  set  out  on  the  3d  of  July,  on  their  opposite  routes, 
Captain  Bonneville  received  intelligence  that  Wyeth,  the  inde- 
fatigable leader  of  the  salmon-fishing  enterprise,  who  had  parted 
with  him  about  a  year  previously  on  the  banks  of  the  Bighorn, 
to  descend  that  wild  river  in  a  bull  boat,  was  near  at  hand,  with 
a  new  levied  band  of  hunters  and  trappers,  and  was  on  his  way 
once  more  to  the  banks  of  the  Columbia. 

As  we  take  much  interest  in  the  novel  enterprise  of  this 
"  easiorn  man,"  and  are  pleased  with  his  pushing  and  persevering 
spirit ;  and  as  his  movements  are  characteristic  of  life  in  the  wil- 
derness, we  will,  with  the  reader's  permission,  while  Captain  Bon- 
neville is  breaking  up  his  camp  and  saddling  his  horses,  step  back 
a  year  in  time,  and  a  few  hundred  miles  in  distance,  to  the  bank 
of  the  Bighorn,  and  launch  ourselves  with  Wyeth  in  his  bull 
boat ;  and  though  his  adventurous  voyage  will  take  us  many 
hundreds  of  miles  further  down  wild  and  wandering  rivers  ;  yet 
such  is  the  magic  power  of  the  pen,  that  we  promise  to  bring  the 
reader  safe  back  to  Bear  River  valley,  by  the  time  the  last  horse 
is  saddled. 


'. 


.-%.. 


vv>_ 


348 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


■  ! 


CHAPTER  XLI. 

A  VOYAGE  IN  A  BULL  BOAT. 

It  was  about  the  middle  of  August  (1830)  that  Mr.  Nathaniel  J. 
Wyeth,  as  the  reader  may  recollect,  launched  his  bull  boat  at  the 
foot  of  the  rapids  of  the  Bighorn,  and  departed  in  advance  of  the 
parties  of  Campbell  and  Captain  Bonneville.  His  boat  was  made 
of  three  buffalo  skins,  stretched  on  a  light  frame,  stitched  together, 
and  the  seams  payed  with  elk  tallow  and  ashes.  It  was  eighteen 
feet  long,  and  about  five  feet  six  inches  wide,  sharp  at  each  end, 
with  a  round  bottom,  and  drew  about  a  foot  and  a  half  of  water ; 
a  depth  too  great  for  these  upper  rivers,  which  abound  with  shal- 
lows and  sand-bars.  The  crew  consisted  of  two  half-breeds,  who 
claimed  to  be  white  men,  though  a  mixture  of  the  French  Creole 
and  the  Shawnee  and  Potawattomie.  They  claimed,  moreover, 
to  be  thorough  mountaineers,  and  first-rate  hunters — the  common 
boast  of  these  vagabonds  of  the  wilderness.  Besides  these,  there 
was  a  Nez  Perc6  lad  of  eighteen  years  of  age,  a  kind  of  servant 
of  all  work,  whose  great  aim,  like  all  Indian  servants,  was  to  do 
as  little  work  as  possible  ;  there  was,  moreover,  a  half-breed  boy, 
of  thirteen,  named  Baptiste,  son  of  a  Hudson's  Bay  trader  by  a 
Flathead  beauty ;  who  was  travelling  with  Wyeth  to  see  the 
world  and  complete  his  education.     Add  to  these,  Mr.  Milton 


\ 


THE  BOAT  AND  ITS  CREW, 


34» 


Sublette,  who  went  as  passenger,  and  we  have  the  crew  of  the 
little  bull  boat  complete. 

It  certainly  was  a  slight  armament  with  which  to  run  the 
gauntlet  through  countries  swarming  with  hostile  hordes,  and  a 
slight  bark  to  navigate  these  endless  rivers,  tossing  and  pitching 
down  rapids,  running  on  snags  and  bumping  on  sand-bars  ;  such, 
however,  are  the  cockle-shells  with  which  these  hardy  rovers  of 
the  wilderness  will  attempt  the  wildest  streams ;  and  it  is  sur- 
prising what  rough  shocks  and  thumps  these  boats  will  endure, 
and  what  vicissitudes  they  will  live  through.  Their  duration, 
however,  is  but  limited  ;  they  require  frequently  to  be  hauled  out 
of  the  water  and  dried,  to  prevent  the  hides  from  becoming  wa- 
ter-soaked ;  and  they  eventually  rot  and  go  to  pieces. 

The  course  of  the  river  was  a  little  to  the  north  of  east ;  it 
ran  about  five  miles  an  hour,  over  a  gravelly  bottom.  The  banks 
were  generally  alluvial,  and  thickly  grown  with  cotton-wood  trees, 
intermingled  occasionally  with  ash  and  plum  trees.  Now  and 
then  limestone  cliffs  and  promontories  advanced  upon  the  river, 
making  picturesque  headlands.  Beyond  the  woody  borders  rose 
ranges  of  naked  hills. 

Milton  Sublette  was  the  Pelorus  of  this  adventurous  bark  ; 
being  somewhat  experienced  in  this  wild  kind  of  navigation.  It 
required  all  his  attention  and  skill,  however,  to  pilot  her  clear  of 
sand-bars  and  snags,  or  sunken  trees.  There  was  often,  too,  a 
perplexity  of  choice,  where  the  river  branched  into  various  chan- 
nels, among  clusters  of  islands ;  and  occasionally  the  voyagers 
found  themselves  aground  and  had  to  turn  back. 

It  was  necessary,  also,  to  keep  a  wary  eye  upon  the  land,  for 
they  were  passing  through  the  heart  of  the  Crow  country,  and 
were  continually  in  reach  of  any  ambush  that  might  be  lurking 


350 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


on  shore.  The  most  formidable  foes  that  they  saw,  however, 
were  throe  grizzly  bears,  (quietly  promenading  along  the  bank, 
who  seemed  to  gaze  at  them  with  surprise  as  they  glided  by. 
Herds  of  buffalo,  also,  were  moving  about,  or  lying  on  the  ground, 
like  cattle  in  a  pasture ;  excepting  such  inhabitants  as  these,  a 
perfect  solitude  reigned  over  the  land.  There  was  no  sign  of 
human  habitation ;  for  the  Crows,  as  we  have  already  shown,  are 
a  wandering  people,  a  race  of  hunters  and  warriors,  who  live  in 
tents  and  on  horseback,  and  are  continually  on  the  move. 

At  night  tlicy  landed,  hauled  up  their  boat  to  dry,  pitched 
their  tent,  and  made  a  rousing  fire.  Then,  as  it  was  the  first 
evening  of  their  voyage,  they  indulged  in  a  regale,  relishing 
their  buffalo  beef  with  inspiring  alcohol ;  after  which,  they  slept 
soundly,  without  dreaming  of  Crows  or  Blaekfeet.  Early  in  the 
morning,  they  again  launched  their  boat  and  committed  them- 
selves to  the  stream. 

In  this  way,  they  voyaged  for  two  days  without  any  material 
occurrence,  excepting  a  severe  thunder  storm,  which  compelled 
them  to  put  to  shore,  and  wait  until  it  was  past.  On  the  third 
morning,  they  descried  some  persons  at  a  distance  on  the  river 
bank.  As  they  were  now,  by  calculation,  at  no  great  distance 
from  Fort  Cass,  a  trading  post  of  the  American  Fur  Company, 
they  supposed  these  might  be  some  of  its  people.  A  nearer 
approach  showed  them  to  be  Indians.  Descrying  a  woman  apart 
from  the  rest,  they  landed  and  accosted  her.  She  informed  them 
that  the  main  force  of  the  Crow  nation,  consisting  of  five  bands, 
under  their  several  chiefs,  were  but  about  two  or  three  miles 
below,  on  their  way  up  along  the  river.  This  was  unpleasant 
tidings,  but  to  retreat  was  impossible,  and  the  river  afforded  no 
hiding  place.     They  continued  forward,  therefore,  trusting  that, 


A  CROW  CAVALCADE. 


351 


lown,  are 


as  Fort  Cass  was  so  near  at  hand,  the  Crows  might  refrain  from 
any  depredations. 

Floating  down  about  two  miles  further,  they  came  in  sight  of 
the  first  band,  scattered  along  the  river  bank,  all  well  mounted ; 
some  armed  with  guns,  others  with  bows  and  arrows,  and  a  few 
with  lances.  They  made  a  wildly  picturesque  appearance,  man- 
aging their  horses  with  their  accustomed  dexterity  and  grace. 
Nothing  can  be  more  spirited  than  a  band  of  Crow  cavaliers. 
They  are  a  fine  race  of  men,  averaging  six  feet  in  height,  lithe 
and  active,  with  hawks'  eyes  and  Roman  noses.  The  latter  fea- 
ture is  common  to  the  Indians  on  the  cast  side  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains ;  those  on  the  western  side  have  generally  straight  or 
fiat  noses. 

Wyeth  would  fain  have  slipped  by  this  cavalcade  unnoticed ; 
but  the  river,  at  this  place,  was  not  more  than  ninety  yards 
across ;  he  was  perceived,  therefore,  and  hailed  by  the  vagabond 
warriors,  and,  we  presume,  in  no  very  choice  language ;  for, 
among  their  other  accomplishments,  the  Crows  are  famed  for 
possessing  a  Billingsgate  vocabulary  of  unrivalled  opulence,  and 
for  being  by  no  means  sparing  of  it  whenever  an  occasion  offers. 
Indeed,  though  Indians  are  generally  very  lofty,  rhetorical,  and 
figurative  in  their  language  at  all  great  talks,  and  high  ceremo- 
nials, yet,  if  trappers  and  traders  may  be  believed,  they  are  the 
most  unsavory  vagabonds  in  their  ordinary  colloquies ;  they 
make  no  hesitation  to  call  a  spade  a  spade ;  and  when  they  once 
undertake  to  call  hard  names,  the  famous  pot  and  kettle,  of  vitu- 
perating memory,  are  not  to  be  compared  with  them  for  scurrility 
of  epithet. 

To  escape  the  infliction  of  any  compliments  of  the  kind,  or 
the  launching,  peradventure,  of  more  dangerous  missiles,  "Wyeth 


Hi 

"I 


u 


•[] 


II 


353 


BONNEVILLF/S  ADVENTURES. 


landed  with  the  best  grace  in  his  power,  and  approaohod  the  chief 
of  the  band.  It  was  Arapooish,  the  (juondani  friend  of  Hose  the 
outlaw,  and  one  whom  we  have  already  mentioned  as  being  anx- 
ious to  promote  a  friendly  intercourse  between  his  tribe  and  the 
white  men.  Ho  was  a  tall,  stout  man,  of  good  presence,  and 
received  the  voyagers  very  graciously.  His  people,  too,  thronged 
around  them,  and  were  officiously  attentive  after  the  Crow  fash- 
ion. One  took  a  great  fancy  to  Baptisto,  the  Flatlicad  boy,  and 
a  still  greater  fancy  to  a  ring  on  his  finger,  which  ho  transposed 
to  his  own  with  surprising  dexterity,  and  then  disappeared  with 
a  quick  step  among  the  crowd. 

Another  was  no  less  pleased  with  the  Nez  Perci'  lad,  and 
nothing  would  do  but  he  must  exchange  knives  with  him ;  draw- 
ing a  new  knife  out  of  the  Nez  Perce's  scabbard,  and  putting  an 
old  one  in  its  place.  Another  stepped  up  and  replaced  this  old 
knife  with  one  still  older,  and  a  third  helped  himself  to  knife, 
scabbard,  and  all.  It  was  with  much  difficulty  that  Wyeth  and 
his  companions  extricated  themselves  from  the  clutches  of  these 
officious  Crows,  before  they  were  entirely  plucked. 

Falling  down  the  river  a  little  further,  they  came  in  sight  of 
the  second  band,  and  sheered  to  the  opposite  side,  with  the  inten- 
tion of  passing  them.'  The  Crows  were  not  to  be  evaded.  Some 
pointed  their  guns  at  the  boat,  and  threatened  to  fire ;  others 
stripped,  plunged  into  the  stream,  and  came  swimming  across. 
Making  a  virtue  of  necessity,  Wyeth  threw  a  cord  to  the  first 
that  came  witiiin  reach,  as  if  he  wislied  to  be  drawn  to  the 
shore. 

In  this  way  he  was  overhauled  by  every  band,  and  by  the 
time  he  and  his  people  came  out  of  the  busy  hands  of  the  last, 
they  were  eased  of  most  of  their  superfluities.     Nothing,  in  all 


TRICKS  OF  TRADERS, 


353 


ire;  others 


probability,  but  tho  proximity  of  the  American  trading  post,  kept 
those  land  pirates  from  making  a  good  prize  of  the  bull  boat  and 
ail  its  contents. 

These  bands  were  in  full  march,  equipped  for  war,  and  evident^ 
ly  full  of  mischief  They  were,  in  fact,  the  very  bands  that  over- 
run the  land  in  the  autumn  of  1833  ;  partly  robbed  Fitzpatrick  of 
his  horses  and  effects  ;  hunted  and  harassed  Captain  Bonneville 
and  his  people ;  broke  up  their  trapping  campaigns,  and,  in  a 
word,  drove  them  all  out  of  tho  Crow  country.  It  has  been 
suspected  that  they  were  set  on  to  these  pranks  by  some  of  the 
American  Fur  Company,  anxious  to  defeat  the  plans  of  their 
rivals  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Company ;  for  at  this  time,  their 
competition  was  at  its  height,  and  the  trade  of  the  Crow  country 
was  a  great  object  of  rivalry.  What  makes  this  the  more  proba- 
ble, is,  that  the  Crows  in  their  depredations  seemed  by  no  means 
blood-thirsty,  but  intent  chiefly  on  robbing  the  parties  of  their 
traps  and  horses,  thereby  disabling  them  from  prosecuting  their 
hunting. 

We  should  observe  that  this  year,  the  Rocky  Mountain  Com- 
pany were  pushing  their  way  up  the  rivers,  and  establishing  rival 
posts  near  those  of  the  American  Company ;  and  that,  at  the 
very  time  of  which  we  are  speaking,  Captain  Sublette  was  as- 
cending the  Yellowstone  with  a  keel  boat,  laden  with  supplies ; 
so  that  there  was  every  prospect  of  thid  eager  rivalship  being 
carried  to  extremities. 

The  last  band  of  Crow  warriors  had  scarce  disappeared  in 
the  cloud  of  dust  they  had  raised,  when  our  voyagers  arrived  at 
the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  glided  into  the  current  of  the  Yel- 
lowstone. Turning  down  this  stream,  they  made  for  Fort  Cass, 
which  is  situated  on  the  right  bank,  about  three  miles  below  the 


't 


»»■ 


..?t. 


354 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


Bighorn.  On  the  opposite  side,  they  beheld  a  party  of  thirty- 
one  savages,  which  they  soon  ascertained  to  be  Blackfeet.  The 
width  of  the  river  enabled  them  to  keep  at  a  sufficient  distance, 
and  they  soon  landed  at  Fort  Cass.  This  was  a  mere  fortification 
against  Indians ;  being  a  stockade  of  about  one  hundred  and 
thirty  feet  square,  with  two  bastions  at  the  extreme  corners. 
M'Tulloch,  an  agent  of  the  American  Company,  was  stationed 
there  with  twenty  men  ;  two  boats  of  fifteen  tons  burden,  were 
lying  here  ;  but  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year  a  steamboat  can 
come  up  to  the     /t. 

They  had  scarcely  arrived,  when  the  Blackfeet  warriors  made 
their  appearance  on  the  opposite  bank,  displaying  two  American 
flags  in  tokt3n  of  amity.  They  plunged  into  the  river,  swam 
across,  and  were  kindly  received  at  the  fort.  They  were  some 
of  the  very  men  who  had  been  engaged,  the  year  previously,  in 
the  battle  at  Pierre's  Hole,  and  a  fierce-looking  set  of  fellows 
they  were ;  tall  and  hawk-nosed,  and  very  much  resembling  the 
C-'^ws.  They  professed  to  be  on  an  amicable  errand,  to  make 
peace  with  the  Crows,  and  set  off  in  all  haste,  before  night,  to 
overtake  i/kflm.  Wyeth  predicted  that  they  would  lose  their 
scalps,  for  he  had  iioard  the  Crows  denounce  vengeance  on  them, 
for  having  murdered  two  of  their  warriors  who  had  ventured 
among  them  on  the  faith  of  a  treaty  of  peace.  It  is  probable, 
however,  that  this  pacific  errand  was  all  a  pretence,  and  that  the 
real  object  of  the  Blackfeet  braves  was  to  hang  about  the  skirts 
of  the  Crow  bands,  steal  their  horses,  and  take  the  scalps  of 
straggler's. 

At  Fort  Cass,  Mr.  Wyeth  disposed  of  some  packages  of  bea- 
ver, and  a  quantity  of  buffalo  robes.  On  the  following  morning 
(August  18th),  he  once  more  launched  his  bull  boat,  and  proceeded 


\ 


I  1 


PRAGMATICAL  HUNTERS. 


355 


down  ^e  Yellowstone,  which  inclined  in  an  east-northeast  direc- 
tion. The  river  had  alluvial  bottoms,  fringed  with  great  quanti- 
ties of  the  sweet  cotton-wood,  and  interrupted  occasionally  by 
"  bluflFs  "  of  sandstone.  The  current  occasionally  brings  down 
fragments  of  granite  and  porphyry. 

In  the  course  of  the  day,  they  saw  something  moving  on  the 
bank  among  the  trees,  which  they  mistook  for  game  of  some  kind ; 
and,  being  in  want  of  provisions,  pulled  towards  shore.  They 
discovered,  just  in  time,  a  party  of  Blackfeet,  lurking  in  the 
thickets,  and  sheered,  with  all  speed,  to  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river. 

After  a  time,  they  came  in  sight  of  a  gang  of  elk.  Wyeth 
was  immediately  for  pursuing  them,  rifle  in  hand,  but  saw  evident 
signs  of  dissatisfaction  in  his  half-breed  hunters  ;  who  considered 
him  as  trenching  upon  their  province,  and  meddling  with  things 
quite  above  his  capacity ;  for  these  veterans  of  the  wilderness 
are  exceedingly  pragmatical  on  points  of  venery  and  woodcraft, 
and  tenacious  of  their  superiority ;  looking  down  with  infinite 
contempt  upon  all  raw  beginners.  The  two  worthies,  therefore, 
sallied  forth  themselves,  but  after  a  time,  returned  empty-handed. 
They  laid  the  blame,  however,  entirely  on  their  guns  ;  two  mi- 
serable old  pieces  with  fl:i?t  locks,  which,  with  all  cheir  picking 
and  hammering,  were  continually  apt  to  miss  fire.  These  great 
boasters  of  the  wilderness,  however,  are  very  often  exceeding  bad 
shots,  and  fortunate  it  is  for  them  when  they  have  old  flint  guns 
to  bear  the  blame. 

The  next  day  they  passed  where  a  great  herd  of  buffalo  were 
bellowing  on  a  prairie.  Again  the  Castor  and  Pollux  of  the  wil- 
derness sallied  forth,  and  again  their  flint  guns  were  at  fault,  and 
missed  fire,  and  nothing  went  off  but  the  buffalo.     Wyeth  now 


i<1 


i  'ii 


356 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


found  there  was  danger  of  losing  his  dinner  if  he  depended  upon 
his  hunters  ;  he  took  rifle  in  hand,  therefore,  and  went  forth  him- 
self In  the  course  of  an  hour,  he  returned  laden  with  buffalo 
meat,  to  the  great  mortification  of  the  two  regular  hunters,  who 
were  annoyed  at  being  eclipsed  by  a  greenhorn. 

All  hands  now  set  to  work  to  prepare  the  mid-day  repast.  A 
fire  was  made  under  an  immense  cotton-wood  tree,  that  oversha- 
dowed a  beautiful  piece  of  meadow  land  ;  rich  morsels  of  buffalo 
hump  were  soon  roasting  before  it ;  in  a  hearty  and  prolonged 
repast,  the  two  unsuccessful  hunters  gradually  recovered  from 
their  mortification  ;  threatened  to  discard  their  old  flint  guns  as 
soon  as  they  should  reach  the  settlements,  and  boasted  more  than 
ever  of  the  wonderful  shots  they  had  made,  when  they  had  guns 
that  never  missed  fire. 

Having  hauled  up  their  boat  to  dry  in  the  sun,  previous  to 
making  their  repast,  the  voyagers  now  set  it  once  more  afloat, 
and  proceeded  on  their  way.  They  had  constructed  a  sail  out  of 
their  old  tent,  which  they  hoisted  whenever  the  wind  was  favor- 
able, and  thus  skimmed  along  down  the  stream.  Their  voyage 
was  pleasant,  notwithstanding  the  perils  by  sea  and  land,  with 
which  they  were  environed.  Whenever  they  could,  they  en- 
camped on  islands,  for  the  greater  se  jurity.  If  on  the  mainland, 
and  in  a  dangerous  neighborhood,  they  would  shift  their  camp 
after  dark,  leaving  their  fire  burning,  dropping  down  the  river  to 
some  distance,  and  making  no  fire  at  their  second  encampment, 
Sometimes  they  would  float  all  night  with  the  current ;  one  keep- 
ing watch  and  steering  while  the  rest  slept :  in  such  case,  they 
would  haul  their  boat  on  shore,  at  noon  of  the  following  day,  to 
dry ;  for  notwithstanding  every  precaution,  she  was  gradually 
getting  wfiter-soaked  and  rotten. 


\ 


BALD  EAGLES.— THE  YELLOWSTONE. 


357 


There  was  something  pleasingly  solemn  and  mysterious  in 
thus  floating  down  these  wild  rivers  at  night.  The  purity  of  the 
atmosphere  in  these  elevated  regions,  gave  additional  splendor  to 
the  stars,  and  heightened  the  magnificence  of  the  firn.ament. 
The  occasional  c>.i  (h  and  laving  of  the  waters  ;  the  vague  sounds 
from  the  s  -.i-r  jvtuding  wilderness  ;  the  dreary  howl,  or  rather 
whine,  of  w^lve  .  ^rom  the  plains  ;  the  low  grunting  and  bellow- 
ing of  the  buffalo,  and  the  shrill  neighing  of  the  elk,  struck  the 
ear  with  an  effect  unknown  in  the  daytime. 

The  two  knowing  hunters  had  scarcely  recovered  from  one 
mortification,  when  they  were  fated  to  experience  another.  As 
the  boat  was  gliding  swiftly  round  a  low  promontory,  thinly 
covered  with  trees,  one  of  them  gave  the  alarm  of  Indians.  The 
boat  was  instantly  shoved  from  shore,  and  evei.y  one  caught  up 
his  rifle.     "  Where  are  they  ?"  cried  Wyeth. 

"  There — there  !  riding  on  horseback  !"  cried  one  of  the 
hunters. 

"  Yes  ;  with  white  scarfs  on  !"  cried  the  other. 

Wyeth  looked  in  the  direction  they  pointed,  but  descried  no- 
thing but  two  bald  eagles,  perched  on  a  low  dry  branch,  beyond 
the  thickets,  and  seeming,  from  the  rapid  motion  of  the  boat,  to 
be  moving  swiftly  in  an  opposite  direction.  The  detection  of  this 
blunder  in  the  two  veterans,  who  prided  themselves  on  the  sure- 
ness  and  quickness  of  their  sight,  produced  a  hearty  laugh  at 
their  expense,  and  put  an  end  to  their  vauntings. 

The  Yellowstone,  above  the  confluence  of  the  Bighorn,  is  a 
clear  stream  ;  its  waters  were  now  gradually  growing  turbid,  and 
assuming  the  yellow  clay  color  of  the  Missouri.  The  current 
was  about  four  miles  an  hour,  with  occasional  rapids ;  some  of 
them  dangerous,  but  the  voyagers  passed  them  all  without  acci- 


»l 


J* 


II' 


358 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


I 


^ 


dent.  The  banks  of  the  river  were  in  many  places  precipitous, 
with  strata  of  bituminous  coal. 

They  now  entered  a  :;'egion  abounding'with  buffalo — that  ever- 
journeying  animal,  which  moves  in  countless  droves  from  point  to 
point  of  the  vast  wilderness ;  traversing  plains,  pouring  through 
the  intricate  defiles  of  mountains,  swimming  rivers,  ever  on  the 
move  ;  guided  on  its  boundless  migrations  by  some  traditionary 
knowledge,  like  the  finny  tribes  of  the  ocean,  which,  at  certain 
seasons,  find  their  mysterious  paths  across  the  deep,  and  revisit 
the  remotest  shores. 

These  great  migratory  herds  of  buffalo  have  their  hereditary 
paths  and  highways,  worn  deep  through  the  country,  and  making 
for  the  surest  passes  of  the  mountains,  and  the  most  practicable 
fords  of  the  rivers.  When  once  a  great  column  is  in  full  career, 
it  goes  straight  forward,  regardless  of  all  obstacles ;  those  in 
front  being  impelled  by  the  moving  mass  behind.  At  such  times, 
they  will  break  through  a  camp,  trampling  down  every  thing  in 
their  course. 

It  was  the  lot  of  the  voyagers,  one  night,  to  encamp  at  one 
of  these  buffalo  landing  places,  and  exactly  on  the  trail.  They 
had  not  been  long  asleep,  when  they  were  awakened  by  a  great 
bellowing,  and  tramping,  and  the  rush,  an<l  -splash,  and  snorting  of 
animals  in  the  river.  They  had  just  time  to  ascertain  that  a 
buffalo  army  was  entering  the  river  on  the  opposite  side,  and 
making  towards  the  landing  place.  With  all  haste  they  moved 
their  boat  and  shifted  their  camp,  by  which  time  the  head  of 
the  column  had  reached  the  shore,  and  came  pressing  up  the 
bank. 

It  was  a  singular  spectacle,  by  the  uncertain  moonlight,  to 
behold  this  countless  throng  making  their  way  across  the  river. 


V'' 

'.  if 


^'iy 


A  NOOSED  BUFFAT.O. 


85» 


blowing,  and  bellowing,  and  splashing.  Sometimes  they  pass  in 
such  dense  and  continuous  column  as  to  form  a  temporary  dam 
across  the  river ;  the  waters  of  which  rise  and  rush  over  their 
backs,  or  between  their  squadrons.  The  roaring  and  rushing 
sound  of  one  of  these  vast  herds  crossing  a  river,  may  sometimes, 
in  a  still  night,  be  heard  for  miles. 

The  voyagers  now  had  game  in  profusion.  They  could  kill 
as  many  buifalo  as  they  pleased,  and,  occasionally,  were  wanton 
in  their  havoc ;  especially  among  scattered  herds,  that  came  swim- 
ming near  the  boat.  On  one  occasion,  an  old  buifalo  bull  ap- 
proached so  near,  that  the  half-breeds  mast  fain  try  to  noose  him, 
as  they  would  a  wild  horse.  The  noose  was  successfully  thrown 
around  his  head,  and  secured  him  by  the  horns,  and  they  now 
promised  themselves  ample  sport.  The  buffalo  made  a  prodigious 
turmoil  in  the  water,  bellowing,  and  blowing,  and  floundering ; 
and  they  all  floated  down  the  stream  together.  At  length  he 
found  foothold  on  a  sand-bar,  and  taking  to  liis  heels,  whirled  the 
boat  after  him,  like  a  whale  when  harpooned  ;  so  that  the  hunt- 
ers were  obliged  to  cast  off  their  rope,  with  which  strange  head- 
gear the  venerable  bull  made  off  to  the  prairies. 

On  the  24th  of  August,  the  bull  boat  emerged,  with  its  adven- 
turous crew,  into  the  broad  1  "soni  ot  the  mighty  Missouri.  Here, 
about  six  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone,  the  voya- 
gers landed  at  Fort  Union,  the  distributing  post  of  the  American 
Fur  Company  in  the  western  country.  It  vis  a  stockaded  for- 
tress, about  two  hundred  and  twenty  feet  square,  pleasantly 
situated  on  a  high  bank.  Here  they  were  hospitably  entertained 
by  Mr  M'Ktnzie,  the  superintendent,  and  remained  with  him 
three  days,  enjoying  the  unusual  luxuries  of  bread,  butter,  milk, 
and  cheese,  for  the  fort  was  well  supplied  with  domestic  cattle, 


3G0 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


{   '  ! 


.,; 


i 


41     P 


'i'. 


thr^ngh  it  had  no  garden.  The  atmosphere  of  these  elevated  re- 
gions is  said  to  be  too  dry  for  the  culture  of  vegetables ;  yet  the 
voyagers,  in  coming  down  the  Yellowstone,  had  met  with  plums, 
grapes,  cherries,  and  currants,  and  had  observed  ash  and  elm 
trees.  Where  these  grow,  the  climate  cannot  be  incompatible 
with  gardening. 

At  Fort  Union,  Wyeth  met  with  a  melancholy  memento  of 
one  of  his  men.  This  was  u  powder-flask,  which  a  clerk  had 
purchased  from  a  Blackfoot  warrior.  It  bore  the  initials  of  poor 
More,  the  unfortunate  youth  murdered  the  year  previously,  at 
Jackson's  Hole,  by  the  Blackfcet,  and  whose  bones  had  been  sub- 
sequently found  by  Captain  Bonneville.  This  flask  had  either 
been  passed  from  hand  to  hand  of  the  tribe,  or,  perhaps,  had 
been  brought  to  the  fort  by  the  very  savage  who  slew  him. 

As  the  bull  boat  was  now  nearly  worn  out,  and  altogether 
unfit  for  the  broader  and  more  turbulent  stream  of  the  Missouri, 
it  was  given  up,  and  a  canoe  of  cotton-wood,  about  twenty  feet 
long,  fabricated  by  the  Blackfcet,  was  purchased  to  supply  its 
place.  In  this  Wyeth  hoisted  his  sail,  and  bidding  adieu  to  the 
hospitable  superintendent  of  Fort  Union,  turned  his  prow  to  the 
east,  and  set  oiF  down  the  Missouri. 

He  had  not  proceeded  many  hours,  before,  in  the  evening,  he 
came  to  a  large  keel  boat,  at  anchor.  It  proved  to  be  the  boat 
of  Captain  William  Sublette,  freighted  with  munitions  for  curry- 
ing on  a  powerful  opposition  to  the  American  Fur  Company. 
The  voyagers  went  on  board,  where  they  were  treated  with  the 
hearty  hospitality  of  the  wilderness,  and  passed  a  social  evening, 
talking  over  past  scenes  and  adventures,  and  especially  the  memo- 
rable fight  at  Pierre's  Hole. 

Here  Milton  Sublette  determined  to  give  up  further  voyaging 


A 


NAVAL  BATTLE  WITH  A  BEAR. 


361 


in  the  canoe,  and  remain  with  his  brother ;  accordingly,  in  the 
morning,  the  fellow-voyagers  took  kind  leave  of  each  other,  and 
Wyeth  continued  on  his  course.  There  was  now  no  one  on  board 
of  his  boat  that  had  ever  voyaged  on  the  Missouri ;  it  was,  how- 
ever, all  plain  sailing  down  the  stream,  without  any  chance  of 
missing  the  way.  * 

All  day  the  voyagers  pulled  gently  along,  and  landed  in  the 
evening  and  supped  ;  then  re-embarking,  they  suffered  the  canoe 
to  float  down  with  the  current ;  taking  turns  to  watch  and  sleep. 
The  night  was  calm  and  serene ;  the  elk  kept  up  a  continual 
whinnying  or  squealing,  being  the  commencement  of  the  season 
when  they  are  in  heat.  In  the  midst  of  the  night,  the  canoe 
struck  on  a  sand-bar,  and  all  hands  were  aroused  by  the  rush  and 
roar  of  the  wild  waters,  which  broke  around  her.  They  were  all 
obliged  to  jump  overboard,  and  work  hard  to  get  her  oflF,  which 
was  accomplished  with  much  difficulty. 

In  the  course  of  the  following  day  they  saw  three  grizzly 
bears  at  diflferent  times  along  the  bank.  The  last  one  was  on  a 
point  of  land,  and  was  evidently  making  for  the  river,  to  swim 
across.  The  two  half-breed  hunters  were  now  eager  to  repeat  the 
manoeuvre  of  the  noose ;  promising  to  entrap  Bruin,  an-^  have 
rare  sport  in  strangling  and  drowning  him.  Their  only  fear  was, 
that  he  might  take  fright  and  return  to  land  before  they  could 
get  between  him  and  the  shore.  Holding  back,  therefore,  until 
he  was  fairly  committed  in  the  centre  s/t  the  stream,  they  then 
pulled  forward  with  might  and  main,  so  as  to  cut  oflf  his  retreat, 
and  take  him  in  the  rear.  One  of  the  worthies  stationed  himself 
in  the  bow,  with  the  cord  and  slip-noose,  the  other,  with  the  Nez 
Perce,  managed  the  paddles.  There  was  nothing  further  from 
the  thoughts  of  honest  Bruin,  however,  than  to  beat  a  retreat. 

16 


362 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


Just  as  the  canoe  was  drawing  near,  lie  turned  suddenly  round 
and  made  for  it,  with  a  horrible  snarl,  and  a  tremendous  show  of 
teeth.  The  affrighted  hunter  called  to  his  comrades  to  paddle 
off.  Scarce  had  they  turned  the  boat,  when  the  bear  laid  his 
enormous  claws  on  the  gunwale,  and  attempted  to  get  on  board. 
The  canoe  was  nearly  overturned,  and  a  deluge  of  water  came 
pouring  over  the  gunwale,  All  was  clamor,  terror,  and  confu- 
sion. Every  one  bawled  out — the  bear  roared  and  snarled — one 
caught  up  a  gun  ;  but  water  had  rendered  it  useless.  Others 
handled  their  paddles  more  etfectually,  and  beating  old  Bruin 
about  the  head  and  claws,  obliged  him  to  relinquish  his  hold. 
They  now  plied  their  paddles  with  might  and  main,  the  bear 
made  the  best  of  his  way  to  shore,  and  so  ended  the  second  ex- 
ploit of  the  noose ;  the  hunters  determining  to  have  no  more 
naval  contests  with  grizzly  bears. 

The  voyagers  were  now  out  of  the  range  of  Crows  and  Black- 
feet ;  but  they  were  approaching  the  country  of  the  Rtes,  or 
Arickaras  ;  a  tribe  no  less  dangerous  :  and  who  were,  generally, 
hostile  to  small  parties. 

In  passing  through  their  country,  Wyeth  laid  by  all  day,  and 
drifted  quietly  down  the  river  at  night.  In  this  way,  he  passed 
on,  until  he  supposed  himself  safely  through  the  region  of  dan- 
ger ;  when  he  resumed  his  voyaging  in  the  open  day.  On  the 
3d  of  September  he  had  landed,  at  mid-day,  to  dine  ;  and  while 
some  were  making  a  fire,  one  of  the  hunters  mounted  a  high 
bank  to  look  out  for  game.  He  had  scarce  glanced  his  eye  round, 
when  he  perceived  horses  grazing  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river. 
Crouching  down,  he  slunk  back  to  the  camp,  and  reported  what 
he  had  seen.  On  further  reconnoitring,  the  voyagers  counted 
twenty-one  lodgos ;  and,  from  the  number  of  horses,  computed 


I  I 


A  PERILOUS   SITUATION. 


363 


that  there  must  be  nearly  a  hundred  Indians  encamped  there. 
They  now  drew  their  boat,  with  all  speed  and  caution,  into  a 
thicket  of  water  willows,  and  remained  closely  concealed  all  day. 
As  soon  as  the  night  closed  in  they  re-embarked.  The  moon 
would  rise  early  ;  so  that  they  had  but  about  two  hours  of  dark- 
ness to  get  past  the  camp.  The  night,  however,  was  cloudy,  with 
a  blustering  wind.  Silently,  and  with  muffled  oars,  they  glided 
down  the  river,  keeping  close  under  the  shore  opposite  to  the 
camp  ;  watching  its  various  lodges  and  fires,  and  the  dark  forms 
passing  to  and  fro  between  them.  Suddenly,  on  turning  a  point 
of  land,  they  found  themselves  close  upon  a  camp  on  their  own 
side  of  the  river.  It  appeared  that  not  more  than  one  half  of 
the  band  had  crossed.  They  were  within  a  few  yards  of  the 
shore ;  they  saw  distinctly  the  savages — some  standing,  some 
lying  round  the  fire.  Horses  were  grazing  around.  Some  lodges 
were  set  up,  others  had  been  sent  across  the  river.  The  red 
glare  of  the  fires  upon  these  wild  groups  and  harsh  faces,  con- 
trasted with  the  surrounding  darkness,  had  a  startling  effect,  as 
the  voyagers  suddenly  came  upon  the  scene.  The  dogs  of  the 
camp  perceived  them,  and  barked  ;  but  the  Indians,  fortunately, 
took  no  heed  of  their  clamor.  Wyeth  instantly  sheered  his  boat 
out  into  the  stream  ;  when,  unluckily,  it  struck  upon  a  sand-b^, 
and  stuck  fast.  It  was  a  perilous  and  trying  situation  ;  for  he 
was  fixed  between  the  two  camps,  and  within  rifle  range  of  both. 
All  hands  jumped  out  into  the  water,  and  tried  to  get  the  boat 
off ;  but  as  no  one  dared  to  give  the  word,  they  could  not  pull 
together,  and  their  labor  was  in  vain.  In  this  way  they  labored 
for  a  long  time  ;  until  Wyeth  thought  of  giving  a  signal  for  a 
general  heave,  by  lifting  his  hat.  The  expedient  succeeded. 
They  launched  their  canoe  again  into  deep  water,  and  getting  in, 


4 


ll 


364 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES, 


had  the  delight  of  seeing  the  camp  fires  of  the  savages  soon 
fading  in  the  distance. 

They  continued  under  way  the  greater  part  of  the  night, 
until  far  beyond  all  danger  from  this  band,  when  they  pulled  to 
shore,  and  encamped. 

The  following  day  was  windy,  and  they  came  near  upsetting 
their  boat  in  carrying  sail.  Towards  evening,  the  wind  subsided, 
and  a  beautiful  calm  night  succeeded.  They  floated  along  with 
the  current  throughout  the  night,  taking  turns  to  watch  and  steer. 
The  deep  stillness  of  the  night  was  occasionally  interrupted  by 
the  neighing  of  the  elk,  the  hoarse  lowing  of  the  buflfalo,  the 
hooting  of  large  owls,  and  the  screeching  of  the  small  ones,  now 
and  then  the  splash  of  a  beaver,  or  the  gong-like  sound  of  the 
swan. 

Part  of  their  voyage  was  extremely  tempestuous  ;  with  high 
winds,  tremendous  thunder,  and  soaking  rain  ;  and  they  were 
repeatedly  in  extreme  danger  from  drift-wood  and  sunken 
trees.  On  one  occasion,  having  continued  to  float  at  night,  after 
the  moon  was  down,  they  ran  under  a  great  snag,  or  sunken  tree, 
with  dry  branches  above  the  water.  These  caught  the  mast, 
while  the  boat  swung  round,  broadside  to  the  streamfand  began 
to  fill  with  water.  Nothing  saved  her  from  total  wreck,  but  cut- 
ting away  the  mast.  She  then  drove  down  the  stream,  but  left 
one  of  the  unlucky  half-breeds  clinging  to  the  snag,  like  a  mon- 
key to  a  pole.  It  was  necessary  to  run  in  shore,  toil  up,  labori- 
ously, along  the  eddies,  and  to  attain  some  distance  above  the 
snag,  when  they  launched  forth  again  into  the  stream,  and  floated 
down  with  it  to  his  rescue. 

We  forbear  to  detail  all  the  circumstances  and  adventures, 
of  upwards  of  a  month's  voyage,  down  the  windings  and  doub- 


(  I 


COURSE  OF   THE    RIVERS. 


365 


igcs  soon 

he  night, 
pulled  to 

upsetting 
subsided, 
ong  with 
nd  steer, 
ipted  by 
lalo,  the 
nes,  now 
i  of  the 

ith  high 
ley  were 

sunken 
ht,  after 
en  tree, 
e  mast, 
I  began 
Dut  cut- 
Jut  left 
a  mon- 

labori- 
)ve  the 

floated 

ntures, 
doub- 


lings of  this  vast  river  ;  in  the  course  of  which,  they  stopped, 
occasionally,  at  a  post  of  one  of  the  rival  fur  companies,  or  at  a 
government  iigoncy  for  an  Indian  tribe.  Neither  shall  wo  dwell 
upon  the  changes  of  cliinate  and  productions,  as  the  voyagers 
swept  down  from  north  to  south,  across  several  degrees  of  lati- 
tude ;  arriving  at  the  regions  of  oaks  and  sycamores ;  of  mul- 
berry and  basswood  trees  ;  of  parotjuets  and  wild  turkeys.  This 
is  one  of  the  characteristics  of  the  middle  and  lower  part  of  the 
Mi.«i80uri ;  but  still  more  so  of  the  Mississippi,  whose  rapid  cur- 
rent traverses  a  succession  of  latitudes,  so  as  in  a  few  days  to 
float  the  voyager  almost  from  the  frozen  regions  to  the  tropics. 

The  voyage  of  Wyeth  shows  the  regular  and  unobstructed 
flow  of  the  rivers,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  in 
contrast  to  those  of  the  western  side ;  where  rocks  and  rapids 
continually  menace  and  obstruct  the  voyager.  We  find  him  in 
a  frail  bark  of  skins,  launching  himself  in  a  stream  at  the  foot 
of  the  llocky  ^Fountains,  and  floating  down  from  river  to  river, 
as  they  empty  themselves  into  each  other  ;  and  ^o  he  might  have 
kept  on,  upwards  of  two  thousand  miles,  until  his  little  bark 
should  drift  into  the  ocean.  At  present,  we  shall  stop  with  him 
at  Cantonment  Leavenworth,  the  frontier  post  of  the  United 
States  ;  where  he  arrived  on  the  27th  of  September. 

Here,  his  first  care  was  to  have  his  Nez  Perce  Indian,  and  his 
half-breed  boy,  Baptiste,  vaccinated.  As  they  approached  the 
fort,  they  were  hailed  by  the  sentinel.  The  sight  of  a  soldier  in 
full  array,  with  what  appeared  to  be  a  long  knife  glittering  on 
the  end  of  his  musket,  struck  Baptiste  with  such  affright,  that 
he  took  to  his  heels,  bawling  for  mercy  at  the  top  of  his  voice. 
The  Nez  Perec  would  have  followed  him,  had  not  Wyeth  assured 
him  of  his  safety.     When  they  underwent  the  operation  of  the 


I 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


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no  "^*     MMi 

122 


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2.0 


1.25  i  1.4 


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11.6 


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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAH  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  MSM 

(716)  S73-4503 


iV 


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A 


\ 


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) 


366 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


lancet,  the  doctor's  wife  and  another  lady  were  present ;  both 
beautiful  women.  They  were  the  first  white  women  that  they 
had  seen,  and  they  could  not  keep  their  eyes  oflF  of  them.  On  re- 
turning to  the  boat,  they  recounted  to  their  companions  all  that 
they  had  observed  at  the  fort ;  but  were  especially  eloquent  about 
the  white  squaws,  who,  they  said,  were  white  as  snow,  and  more 
beautiful  than  any  human  being  they  had  ever  beheld.       > 

We  shall  not  accompany  the  captain  any  further  in  his  voy- 
age ;  but  will  simply  state,  that  he  made  his  way  to  Boston, 
where  he  succeeded  in  organizing  an  association  under  the  name 
of  "  The  Columbia  River  Fishing  and  Trading  Company,"  for 
his  original  objects  of  a  salmon  fishery  and  a  trade  in  furs.  A 
brig,  the  May  Dacres,  had  been  dispatched  for  the  Columbia  with 
supplies  ;  and  he  was  now  on  his  way  to  the  same  point,  at  the 
head  of  sixty  men,  whom  he  had  enlisted  at  St.  Louis ;  some  of 
whom  were  experienced  hunters,  and  all  more  habituated  to  the 
life  of  the  wilderness  than  his  first  band  of  "  down-easters." 

We  will  now  return  to  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  party, 
whom  we  left,  making  up  their  packs  and  saddling  their  horses, 
in  Bear  River  valley.  .  ' 


DEPARTURE  FOR  THE  COLUMBIA. 


367 


Bnt;  both 
t^at  they 
I.  On  re- 
is  all  that 
ent  about 
ind  more 

1  his  voy- 
'  Boston, 
he  name 
any,"  for 
furs.  A 
nbia  with 
it,  at  the 
some  of 
ed  to  the 
srs." 

is  party, 
r  horses, 


CHAPTER  XLII. 

Departure  of  Captain  Bonneville  for  the  Columbia. — Advance  of  Wyeth.^ 
Efforts  to  keep  the  lead. — Hudson's  Bay  party. — A  junketing. — A  delecta- 
ble beverage. — Honey  and  alcohol. — High  carousing. — The  Canadian  bon 
vivant. — A  cache. — A  rapid  move. — Wyeth  and  his  plans. — his  travelling 
companions. — Buffalo  hunting. — More  conviviality. — ^An  interruption. 

It  was  the  3d  of  July,  that  Captain  Bonneville  set  out  on  his 
second  visit  to  the  banks  of  the  Columbia,  at  the  head  of  twenty- 
three  men.  He  travelled  leisurely,  to  keep  his  horses  fresh,  until 
on  the  10th  of  July,  a  scout  brought  word  that  Wyeth,  with  his 
band,  was  but  fifty  miles  in  the  rear,  and  pushing  forward  with 
all  speed.  This  caused  some  bustle  in  the  camp ;  for  it  was 
Important  to  get  first  to  the  buffalo  ground,  to  secure  provisions 
for  the  journey.  As  the  horses  were  too  heavily  laden  to  travel 
fast,  a  cache  was  digged,  as  promptly  as  possible,  to  receive  all 
superfluous  baggage.  Just  as  it  was  finished,  a  spring  burst  out 
of  the  earth  at  the  bottom.  Another  cache  was  therefore  digged, 
about  two  miles  further  on ;  when,  as  they  were  about  to  bury 
the  effects,  a  line  of  horsemen,  with  pack-horses,  were  seen  streak- 
ing over  the  plain,  and  encamped  close  by. 

It  proved  to  be  a  small  band  in  the  service  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  under  the  command  of  a  veteran  Canadian ;  one 
of  those  petty  leaders,  who,  with  a  small  party  of  men,  and  a 


rrA 


368 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


small  supply  of  goods,  are  employed  to  follow  up  a  band  of 
Indians  from  one  hunting  ground  to  another,  and  buy  up  their 
peltries. 

Having  received  numerous  civilities  from  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  the  captain  sent  an  invitation  to  the  officers  of  the 
party  to  an  evening  regale ;  and  set  to  work  to  make  jovial  pre- 
parations. As  the  night  air  in  these  elevated  regions  is  apt  to  be 
cold,  a  blazing  fire  was  soon  made,  that  would  have  done  credit 
to  a  Christmas  dinner,  instead  of  a  midsummer  banquet.  The 
parties  met  in  high  good-fellowship.  There  was  abundance  of 
such  hunters'  fare  as  the  neighborhood  furnished ;  and  it  was  all 
discussed  with  mountain  appetites.  They  talked  over  all  the 
events  of  their  late  campaigns ;  but  the  Canadian  veteran  had 
been  unlucky  in  some  of  his  transactions ;  and  his  brow  began  to 
grow  cloudy.  Captain  Bonneville  remarked  his  rising  spleen, 
and  regretted  that  he  had  no  juice  of  the  grape,  to  keep  it  down. 

A  man's  wit,  however,  is  quick  and  inventive  in  the  wilder- 
ness ;  a  thought  suggested  itself  to  the  captain,  how  he  might 
brew  a  delectable  beverage.  Among  his  stores,  was  a  keg  of 
honey  but  half  exhausted.  This  he  filled  up  with  alcohol,  and 
stirred  the  fiery  and  mellifluous  ingredients  together.  The  glo> 
rious  result  may  readily  be  imagined;  a  happy  compound,  of 
strength  and  sweetness,  enough  to  soothe  the  most  ruffled  tem- 
per, and  unsettle  the  most  solid  understanding. 

The  beverage  worked  to  a  charm ;  the  can  circulated  merrily ; 
the  first  deep  draught  washed  out  every  care  from  the  mind  of 
the  veteran ;  the  second,  elevated  his  spirit  to  the  clouds.  He 
was,  in  fact,  a  boon  companion  ;  as  all  veteran  Canadian  traders 
are  apt  to  be.  He  now  became  glorious;  talked  over  all  his 
exploits,  his  huntings,  his  fightings  with  Indian  braves,  his  loves 


WYETH   AND  HIS  PARTY. 


369 


with  Indian  beauties ;  sang  snatches  of  old  French  ditties,  and 
Canadian  boat  songs ;  drank  deeper  and  deeper,  sang  louder  and 
louder ;  until,  having  reached  a  climax  of  drunken  gayety,  he 
gradually  declined,  and  at  length,  fell  fast  asleep  upon  the 
ground.  After  a  long  nap,  he  again  raised  his  head,  imbibed 
another  potation  of  the  "sweet  and  strong,"  flashed  up  with 
another  slight  blaze  of  French  gayety,  and  again  fell  asleep. 

The  morning  found  him  still  upon  the  field  of  action,  but  in 
sad  and  sorrowful  condition ;  suffering  the  penalties  of  past 
pleasures,  and  calling  to  mind  the  captain's  dulcet  compound, 
with  many  a  retch  and  spasm.  It  seemed  as  if  the  honey  and 
alcohol,  which  had  passed  so  glibly  and  smoothly  over  his  tongue, 
were  at  war  within  his  stomach ;  and  that  he  had  a  swarm  of  bees 
within  his  head.  In  short,  so  helpless  and  wobegone  was  his 
plight,  that  his  party  proceeded  on  their  march  without  him ;  the 
captain  promising  to  bring  him  on  in  safety,  in  the  after  part  of 
the  day.  • 

As  soon  as  this  party  had  moved  off.  Captain  Bonneville's 
men  proceeded  to  construct  and  fill  their  cache ;  and  just  as  it 
was  completed,  the  party  of  Wyeth  was  descried  at  a  distance. 
In  a  moment,  all  was  activity  to  take  the  road.  The  horses  were 
prepared  and  mounted ;  and  being  lightened  of  a  great  part  of 
their  burdens,  were  able  to  move  with  celerity.  As  to  the  worthy 
convive  of  the  preceding  evening,  he  was  carefully  gathered  up 
from  the  hunter's  couch  on  which  he  lay,  repentant  and  supine, 
and,  being  packed  upon  one  of  the  horses,  was  hurried  forward 
with  the  convoy,  groaning  and  ejaculating  at  every  jolt. 

In  the  course  of  the  day,  Wyeth,  being  lightly  mounted,  rode 
ahead  of  his  party,  and  overtook  Captain  Bonneville.  Their 
meeting  was  friendly  and  courteous  ;  and  they  discussed,  sooia- 

16* 


370 


BONNEVILLF/S  ADVENTURES. 


bly,  their  respective  fortunes  since  they  separated  on  the  banks 
of  the  Bighorn.  Wyeth  announced  his  intention  of  establishing 
a  small  trading  post  at  the  mouth  of  the  Portneuf,  and  leaving  a 
few  men  there,  with  a  quantity  of  goods,  to  trade  with  the  neigh- 
boring Indians.  He  was  compelled,  in  fact,  to  this  measure,  in 
consequence  of  the  refusal  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company 
to  take  a  supply  of  goods,  whioh  he  had  brought  out  for  them 
according  to  contract ;  and  which  he  had  no  other  mode  of  dis- 
posing of  He  further  informed  Captain  Bonneville,  that  the 
competition  between  the  Rocky  Mountain  and  American  Fur 
Companies,  which  had  led  to  such  nefarious  stratagems,  and 
deadly  feuds,  was  at  an  end ;  they  having  divided  the  country 
between  them;  allotting  boundaries,  within  which  each  was  to 
trade  and  hunt,  so  as  not  to  interfere  with  the  other. 

In  company  with  Wyeth,  were  travelling  two  men  of  science ; 
Mr.  Nuttall,  the  botanist ;  the  same  who  ascended  the  Missouri, 
at  the  time  of  the  expedition  to  Astoria ;  and  Mr.  Townshend, 
an  ornithologist;  from  these  gentlemen,  we  may  look  forward 
to  important  information  concerning  these  interesting  regions. 
There  were  three  religious  missionaries,  also,  bound  to  the  shores 
of  the  Columbia,  to  spread  the  light  of  the  gospel  in  that  far 
wilderness. 

After  riding  for  some  time  together,  in  friendly  conversation, 
Wyeth  returned  to  his  party,  and  Captain  Bonneville  continued 
to  press  forward,  and  to  gain  ground.  At  night,  he  sent  off  the 
sadly  sober,  and  moralizing  chief  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company, 
under  a  proper  escort,  to  rejoin  his  people ;  his  route  branching 
off  in  a  different  direction.  The  latter  took  a  cordial  leave  of 
his  host,  hoping,  on  some  future  occasion,  to  repay  his  hospitality 
in  kind. 


I.I 


•^ 


VISITORS   TO  THE  CAMP. 


871 


In  the  niorning,  the  captain  was  early  on  the  march  ;  throw- 
ing  scouts  out  far  ahead,  to  scour  hill  and  dale,  in  search  of  buf- 
falo.  He  had  confidently  expected  to  find  game,  in  abundance, 
on  the  head  waters  of  the  Portneuf ;  but  on  reaching  that  region, 
bot  a  track  was  to  be  seen. 

At  length,  one  of  the  scouts,  who  had  made  a  wide  sweep 
away  to  the  head  waters  of  th»  Blackfoot  Hiver,  discovered  great 
herds  quietly  grazing  in  the  adjacent  meadows.  He  set  out  on 
his  return,  to  report  his  discoveries ;  but  night  overtaking  him, 
he  was  kindly  and  hospitably  entertained  at  the  camp  of  Wyeth. 
As  soon  as  day  dawned,  he  hastened  to  his  own  camp  with  the 
welcome  intelligence ;  and  about  ten  o'clock  of  the  same  morning, 
Captain  Bonneville's  party  were  in  the  midst  of  the  game. 

The  packs  were  scarcely  off  the  backs  of  the  mules,  when  the 
runners,  mounted  on  the  fleetest  horses,  were  full  tilt  after  the 
buffalo.  Others  of  the  men  were  busied  erecting  scaffolds,  and 
other  contrivances,  for  jerking  or  drying  meat ;  others  were  light- 
ing great  fires  for  the  same  purpose  ;  soon  the  hunters  began  to 
make  their  appearance,  bringing  in  the  choicest  morsels  of  buffalo 
meat ;  these  were  placed  upon  the  scaffolds,  and  the  whole  camp 
presented  a  scene  of  singular  hurry  and  activity.  At  daylight 
the  next  morning,  the  runners  again  took  the  field,  with  similar 
success ;  and,  after  an  interval  of  repose  made  their  third  and 
last  chase,  about  twelve  o'clock ;  for  by  this  time,  Wyeth's  party 
was  in  sight.  The  game  being  now  driven  into  a  valley,  at  some 
distance,  Wyeth  was  obliged  to  fix  his  camp  there ;  but  he  came 
in  the  evening  to  pay  Captain  Bonneville  a  visit.  He  was  accom- 
panied by  Captain  Stewart,  the  amateur  teaveller ;  who  had  not 
yet  sated  his  appetite  for  the  adventurous  life  of  the  wilderness. 
With  him,  also,  was  a  Mr.  M'Kay,  a  half-breed  ;  son  of  the  un- 


372 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


fortunate  adventurer  of  the  same  name,  who  came  out  in  the  first 
maritime  expedition  to  Astoria,  and  was  blown  up  in  the  Ton- 
quin.  His  son  had  grown  up  in  the  employ  of  the  British  fur 
companies  ;  and  was  a  prime  hunter,  and  a  daring  partisan.  He 
held,  moreover,  a  farm,  in  the  valley  of  the  Wallamut, 

The  three  visitors,  when  they  reached  Captain  Bonneville's 
camp,  were  surprised  to  find  no  one  in  it  but  himself  and  three 
men ;  his  party  being  dispersed  in  all  directions,  to  make  the 
most  of  their  present  chance  for  hunting.  They  remonstrated 
with  him  on  the  imprudence  of  remaining  with  so  trifling  a  guard, 
in  a  region  so  full  of  danger.  Captain  Bonneville  vindicated  the 
policy  of  his  conduct.  He  never  hesitated  to  send  out  all  his 
hunters,  when  any  important  object  was  to  be  attained  ;  and  ex- 
perience had  taught  him  that  he  was  most  secure,  when  his  forces 
were  thus  distributed  over  the  surrounding  country.  He  then 
was  sure  that  no  enemy  could  approach,  from  any  direction,  with- 
out being  discovered  by  his  hunters ;  who  have  a  quick  eye  for 
detecting  the  slightest  signs  of  the  proximity  of  Indians ;  and 
who  would  instantly  convey  intelligence  to  the  camp. 

The  captain  now  set  to  work  with  his  men,  to  prepare  a  suita- 
ble entertainment  for  his  guests.  It  was  a  time  of  plenty  in  the 
camp ;  of  prime  huntprs'  dainties ;  of  buffalo  humps,  and  buffalo 
tongues ;  and  roasted  ribs,  and  broiled  marrowbones :  all  these 
were  cooked  in  hunters'  style ;  served  up  with  a  profusion  known 
only  on  a  plentiful  hunting  ground,  and  discussed  with  an  appe- 
tite that  would  astonish  the  puny  gourmands  of  the  cities.  But 
above  all,  and  to  give  a  bacchanalian  grace  to  this  truly  mascu- 
line repast,  the  captain  produced  his  mellifluous  keg  of  home- 
brewed nectar,  which  had  been  so  potent  over  the  senses  of  the 
veteran  of  Hudson's  Bay.     Potations,  pottle  deep,  again  went 


*«   AN  INTERRUPTION. 


373 


round :  never  did  beverage  excite  greater  glee,  or  meet  with  more 
rapturous  commendation.  The  parties  were  fast  advancing  to 
that  happy  state,  which  would  have  insured  ample  cause  for  the 
next  day's  repentance ;  and  the  bees  were  already  beginning  to 
buzz  about  their  ears,  when  a  messenger  came  spurring  to  the 
camp  with  intelligence,  that  Wyeth's  people  had  got  entangled  in 
one  of  those  deep  and  frightful  ravines,  piled  with  immense  frag- 
ments of  volcanic  rock,  which  gash  the  whole  country  about  the 
head  waters  of  the  Blackfoot  River.  The  revel  was  instantly  at 
an  end ;  the  keg  of  sweet  and  potent  home-brewed  was  deserted ; 
and  the  guests  departed  with  all  speed,  to  aid  in  extricating  their 
companions  from  the  volcanic  ravine. 


974 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


CHAPTER  XLIII. 

A  rapid  march. — A  cloud  of  dust. — Wild  horsemen — "  High  jinks." — Horso- 
racing  and  rifle  shooting. — The  game  of  hand. — The  fishing  season, — 
Mode  of  fishing. — Table  lands  — Salmon  fishers. — The  captain's  visit  to 
an  Indian  lodge. — The  Indian  girl. — The  pocket  mirror.— Supper. — Trou- 
bles of  an  evil  conscience. 


"  Up  and  away  !"  is  the  first  thought  at  daylight  of  the  Indian 
trader,  when  a  rival  is  at  hand  and  distance  is  to  be  gained. 
Early  in  the  morning,  Captain  Bonneville  ordered  the  half-dried 
meat  to  be  packed  upon  the  horses,  and  leaving  Wyeth  and  his 
party  to  hunt  the  scattered  buffalo,  pushed  off  rapidly  to  the  east, 
to  regain  the  plain  of  the  Portneuf  His  march  was  rugged  and 
dangerous  ;  through  volcanic  hills,  broken  into  cliffs  and  preci- 
pices ;  and  seamed  with  tremendous  chasms,  where  the  rooks  rose 
like  walls. 

On  the  second  day,  however,  he  encamped  once  more  in  the 
plain,  and  as  it  was  still  early,  some  of  the  men  strolled  out  to 
the  neighboring  hills.  In  casting  their  eyes  round  the  country, 
they  perceived  a  great  cloud  of  dust  rising  in  the  south,  and  evi- 
dently approaching.  Hastening  back  to  the  camp,  they  gave  the 
alarm.  Preparations  were  instantly  made  to  receive  an  enemy ; 
while  some  of  the  men,  throwing  themselves  upon  the  "  running 
horses  "  kept  for  hunting,  galloped  off  to  reconnoitre.    In  a  little 


t  I 


WILD  HORSEMEN— "  HIGH  JINKS." 


375 


while,  they  made  signals  from  a  distance  that  all  was  friendly. 
By  this  time,  the  cloud  of  dust  had  swept  on  as  if  hurried  along 
by  a  blast,  und  a  band  of  wild  horsemen  came  dashing  at  full 
leap  into  the  camp,  yelling  and  whooping  like  so  many  maniacs. 
Their  dresses,  their  accoutrements,  their  mode  of  riding,  and 
their  uncouth  clamor,  made  them  seem  a  party  of  savages  arrayed 
for  war :  but  they  proved  to  be  principally  half-breeds,  and  white 
men  grown  savage  in  the  wilderness,  who  were  employed  as  trap- 
pers and  hunters  in  the  service  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 

Here  was  again  "  high  jinks  "  in  the  camp.  Captain  Bonne- 
ville's men  hailed  these  wild  scamperers  as  congenial  spirits,  or 
rather,  as  the  very  game  birds  of  their  class.  They  entertained 
them  with  the  hospitality  of  mountaineers,  feasting  them  at  every 
fire.  At  first,  there  were  mutual  details  of  adventures  and  ex- 
ploits, and  broad  joking  mingled  with  peals  of  laughter.  Then 
came  on  boasting  of  the  comparative  merits  of  horses  and  rifles, 
which  soon  engrossed  every  tongue.  This  naturally  led  to  racing, 
and  shooting  at  a  mark  ;  one  trial  of  speed  and  skill  succeeded 
another,  shouts  and  acclamations  rose  from  the  victorious  parties, 
fierce  altercations  succeeded,  and  a  general  melee  was  about  to 
take  place,  when  suddenly  the  attention  of  the  quarrellers  was 
arrested  by  a  strange  kind  of  Indian  chant  or  chorus,  that  seemed 
to  operate  upon  them  as  a  charm.  Their  fury  was  at  an  end  ;  a 
tacit  reconciliation  succeeded,  and  the  ideas  of  the  whole  mon- 
grel crowd — ^whites,  half-breeds,  and  squaws — ^were  turned  in  a 
new  direction.  They  all  formed  into  groups,  and  taking  their 
places  at  the  several  fires,  prepared  for  one  of  the  most  exciting 
amusements  of  the  Nez  Percys,  and  the  other  tribes  of  the  Far 
West. 

The  choral  chant,  in  fact,  which  had  thus  acted  as  a  charm, 


■  ^■a«Ml»Tv:F^w*'TaiB-  i 


376 


BONNEVILLE'S  APVENTURES. 


was  a  kind  of  wild  accompaniment  to  tho  favorite  Indian  gamo 
of  "  Hand."  This  is  played  by  two  parties  drawn  out  in  oppo- 
site platoons  before  a  blazing  firo.  It  is  in  some  respects  like 
the  old  game  of  passing  tho  ring  or  the  button,  and  detecting  tho 
hand  which  holds  it.  In  tho  present  game,  the  object  hidden,  or 
the  caclic  as  it  is  called  by  tho  trappers,  is  a  small  splint  of  wood, 
or  other  diminutive  article,  that  may  be  concealed  in  tho  closed 
hand  This  is  passed  backwards  and  forwards  among  tho  party 
"  in  hand,"  white  tho  party  "  out  of  hand "  guess  whore  it  is 
concealed.  To  heighten  the  excitement  and  confuse  the  guessers, 
a  number  of  dry  poles  are  laid  before  each  platoon,  upon  which 
the  members  of  the  party  "  in  hand  "  beat  furiously  with  short 
staves,  keeping  time  to  the  choral  chant  already  mentioned,  which 
waxes  fast  and  furious  as  the  game  proceeds.  As  large  bets  are 
staked  upon  the  gamo,  the  excitement  is  prodigious.  Each  party 
in  turn  bursts  out  in  full  chorus,  beating,  and  yelling,  and  work- 
ing themselves  up  into  such  a  heat,  that  the  perspiration  rolls 
down  their  naked  shoulders,  even  in  the  cold  of  a  winter  night. 
The  bets  are  doubled  and  trebled  as  the  game  advances,  the  men- 
tal excitement  increases  almost  to  madness,  and  all  the  worldly 
effects  of  the  gamblers  are  often  hazarded  upon  the  position  of 
a  straw. 

These  gambling  games  were  kept  up  throughout  the  night ; 
every  fire  glared  upon  a  group  that  looked  like  a  crew  of  maniacs 
at  their  frantic  orgies  ;  and  the  scene  would  have  been  kept  up 
throughout  the  succeeding  day,  had  not  Captain  Bonneville  in- 
terposed his  authority,  and,  at  the  usual  hour,  issued  his  march- 
ing orders. 

Proceeding  down  the  course  of  Snake  River,  the  hunters 
regularly  returned  to  camp  in  the  evening  laden  with  wild  geese, 


SALMON  FISHERY. 


377 


which  wore  yot  scarcely  able  to  fly,  and  wore  easily  caught  in 
great  numbers.  It  was  now  the  season  of  the  annual  fish-feast, 
with  which  the  Indians  in  those  parts  celebrate  the  first  appear- 
ance of  the  salmon  in  this  river.  Those  fish  are  taken  in  great 
numbers  at  the  numerous  falls  of  about  four  feet  pitch.  The 
Indians  flank  the  shallow  water  just  below,  and  spear  them  as 
they  attempt  to  pass.  In  wide  parts  of  the  river,  also,  they  place 
a  sort  of  chevaux-de-frize,  or  fence,  of  polos  interwoven  with 
withes,  and  forming  an  angle  in  the  middle  of  the  current,  where 
a  small  opening  is  left  for  the  salmon  to  pass.  Around  this  open- 
ing the  Indians  station  themselves  on  small  rafts,  and  ply  their 
spears  with  great  success.  •  ^■. 

The  table  lands  so  common  in  this  region  have  a  sandy  soil, 
inconsiderable  in  depth,  and  covered  with  sago,  or  more  properly 
speaking,  wormwood.  Below  this,  is  a  level  stratum  of  rock, 
riven  occasionally  by  frightful  chasms.  The  whole  plain  rises  as 
it  approaches  the  river,  and  terminates  with  high  and  broken 
clifls,  difficult  to  pass,  and  in  many  places  uo  precipitous,  that  it 
is  impossible,  for  days  together,  to  get  down  to  the  water's  edge, 
to  give  drink  to  the  horses.  This  obliges  the  traveller  occasion- 
ally to  abandon  the  vicinity  of  the  river,  and  make  a  wide  sweep 
into  the  interior. 

It  was  now  far  in  the  month  of  July,  and  the  party  suffered 
extremely  from  sultry  weather  and  dusty  travelling.  The  flies 
and  gnats,  too,  were  extremely  troublesome  to  the  horses  ;  espe- 
cially when  keeping  along  the  edge  of  the  river  where  it  runs  be- 
tween low  sand-banks.  Whenever  the  travellers  encamped  in 
the  afternoon,  the  horses  retired  to  the  gravelly  shores  and  re- 
mained there,  without  attempting  to  feed  until  the  cool  of  the 
evening.     As  to  the  travellers,  they  plunged  into  the  clear  and 


378 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


cool  current,  to  wash  away  the  dust  of  the  road,  and  refresh  them* 
selves  after  the  heat  of  the  day.  The  nights  were  always  cool 
and  pleasant. 

At  one  place  where  they  encamped  for  some  time,  the  river 
was  nearly  five  hundred  yards  wide,  and  studded  with  grassy 
islands,  adorned  with  groves  of  willow  and  cotton-wood.  Here 
the  Indians  were  assembled  in  great  numbers,  and  had  barricaded 
the  channels  between  the  islands,  to  enable  them  to  spear  the 
salmon  with  greater  facility.  They  were  a  timid  race,  and  seemed 
unaccustomed  to  the  sight  of  white  men.  Entering  one  of  the 
huts.  Captain  Bonneville  found  the  inhabitants  just  proceeding 
to  cook  a  fine  salmon.  It  is  put  into  a  pot  filled  with  cold  water, 
and  hung  over  the  fire.  The  moment  the  water  begins  to  boil, 
the  fish  is  considered  cooked. 

Taking  his  seat  unceremoniously,  and  lighting  his  pipe,  the 
captain  awaited  the  cooking  of  the  fish,  intending  to  invite  him- 
self to  the  repast.  The  owner  of  the  hut  seemed  to  take  his 
intrusion  in  good  part,  While  conversing  with  him,  the  captain 
felt  something  move  behind  him,  and  turning  round  and  remov- 
ing a  few  skins  and  old  buffialo  robes,  discovered  a  young  girl, 
about  fourfpen  years  of  age,  crouched  beneath,  who  directed  her 
large  black  eyes  full  in  his  face,  and  continued  to  gaze  in  mute 
surprise  and  terror.  The  captain  endeavored  to  dispel  her  fears, 
and  drawing  a  bright  riband  from  his  pocket,  attempted  repeat- 
edly to  tie  it  round  her  neck.  She  jerked  back  at  each  attempt, 
uttering  a  sound  very  much  like  a  snarl ;  nor  could  all  the  blan- 
dishments of  the  captain,  albeit  u  pleasant,  good-looking,  and 
somewhat  gallant  man,  succeed  in  conquering  the  shyness  of  the 
savage  little  beauty.  His  attentions  were  now  turned  to  the 
parents,  whom  he  presented  with  an  awl  and  a  little  tobacco,  aud 


THE  TEMPTING   MIRROR. 


379 


afresh  them- 
alwajs  cool 

e,  the  river 
nth.  grassy 
ood.  Here 
.  barricaded 
0  spear  the 
and  seemed 
one  of  the 
proceeding 
cold  water, 
;ins  to  boil, 

lis  pipe,  the 

invite  him- 

)o  take  his 

the  captain 

and  remov- 

young  girl, 

irected  her 

se  in  mute 

1  her  fears, 

ted  repeat- 

;h  attempt, 

I  the  blan- 

Dking,  and 

less  of  the 

led  to  the 

bacco,  aud 


having  thus  secured  their  good  will,  continued  to  smoke  his  pipe 
and  watch  the  salmon.  While  thus  seated  near  the  threshold,  an 
urchin  of  the  family  approached  the  door,  but  catching  a  sight 
of  the  strange  guest,  ran  off  screaming  with  terror,  and  ensconced 
himself  behind  the  long  straw  at  the  back  of  the  hut. 

Desirous  to  dispel  entirely  this  timidity,  and  to  open  a  trade 
with  the  simple  inhabitants  of  the  hut,  who,  he  did  not  doubt, 
had  furs  somewhere  concealed  ;  the  captain  now  drew  forth  that 
grand  lure  in  the  eyes  of  the  savage,  a  pocket  mirror.  The  sight 
of  it  was  irresistible.  After  examining  it  for  a  long  time  with 
wonder  and  admiration,  they  produced  a  muskrat  skin,  and  offered 
it  in  exchange.  The  captain  shook  his  head  ;  but  purchased  the 
skin  for  a  couple  of  buttons — superfluous  trinkets  !  as  the  wortliy 
lord  of  the  hovel  had  neither  coat  nor  breeches  on  which  to  place 
them. 

The  mirror  still  continued  the  great  object  of  desire,  particu- 
larly in  the  eyes  of  the  old  housewife,  who  produced  a  pot  of 
parched  flour  and  a  string  of  biscuit  roots.  These  procured  her 
gome  trifle  in  return ;  but  could  not  command  the  purchase  of 
the  mirror.  The  salmon  being  now  completely  cooked,  they  all 
joined  heartily  in  supper.  A  bounteous  portion  was  deposited 
before  the  captain  by  the  old  woman,  upon  some  fresh  grass, 
which  served  instead  of  a  platter ;  and  never  had  he  tasted  a 
salmon  boiled  so  completely  to  his  fancy. 

Supper  being  over,  the  captain  lighted  his  pipe  and  passed  it 
to  his  host,  who,  inhaling  the  smoke,  puffed  it  through  his  nos- 
trils so  assiduously,  that  in  a  little  while  his  head  manifested 
signs  of  confusion  and  dizziness.  Being  satisfied,  by  this  time, 
of  the  kindly  and  companionable  qualities  of  the  captain,  he  be- 
came easy  and  communicative ;  and  at  length  hinted  something 


'  #- 


(      » 


380 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


about  exchanging  beaver  skins  for  horses.  The  captain  at  once 
offered  *.o  dispose  of  his  steed,  which  stood  f^istened  at  the  door. 
The  bargain  was  soon  concluded,  whereupon  the  Indian,  remov- 
ing a  pile  of  bushes  under  which  his  valuables  were  concealed, 
drew  forth  the  number  of  skins  agreed  upon  as  the  price. 

Shortly  afterwards,  some  of  the  captain's  people  coming  up, 
he  ordered  another  horse  to  be  saddled,  and  mounting  it  took  his 
departure  from  the  hut,  after  distributing  a  few  trifling  presents 
among  its  simple  inhabitants.  During  all  the  time  of  his  visit, 
the  little  Indian  girl  had  kept  her  large  black  eyes  fixed  upon 
him,  almost  without  winking,  watching  every  movement  with  awe 
and  wonder  ;  and  as  he  rode  off,  remained  gazing  after  him,  mo- 
tionless as  a  statue.  Her  father,  however,  delighted  with  his  new 
acquaintance,  mounted  his  newly  purchased  horse,  and  followed 
in  the  train  of  the  captain,  to  whom  he  continued  to  be  a  faithful 
and  useful  adherent  during  his  sojourn  in  the  neighborhood. 

The  cowardly  effects  of  an  evil  conscience  were  evidenced  in 
the  conduct  of  one  of  the  captain's  men,  who  had  been  in  the 
Californian  expedition.  During  all  their  intercourse  with  the 
harmless  people  of  this  place,  he  had  manifested  uneasiness  and 
anxiety.  While  his  companions  mingled  freely  and  joyously 
with  the  natives,  he  went  about  with  a  restless,  suspicious  look ; 
scrutinizing  every  painted  form  and  face,  and  starting  often  at 
the  sudden  approach  of  some  meek  and  inoffensive  savage,  who 
regarded  him  with  reverence  as  a  superior  being.  Yet  this  was 
ordinarily  a  bold  fellow,  who  never  flinched  from  danger,  nor 
turned  pale  at  the  prospect  of  a  battle.  At  length  he  requested 
permission  of  Captain  Bonneville  to  keep  out  of  the  way  of  these 
people  entirely.  Their  striking  resemblance,  he  said,  to  the  peo- 
ple of  Ogden's  River,  made  him  continually  fear  that  some  among 


€     . 


jl 


TERRORS  OF  A  GUILTY  CONSCIENCE. 


381 


lan,  remov- 


them  might  have  seen  him  in  that  expedition  ;  and  might  seek  an 
opportunity  of  revenge.  Ever  after  this,  while  they  remained  in 
this  neighborhood,  he  would  skulk  out  of  the  way  and  keep  aloof, 
when  any  of  the  native  inhabitants  approached.  "Such,"  ob- 
serves Captain  Bonneville,  "  is  the  effect  of  self-reproach,  even 
upon  the  roving  trapper  in  the  wilderness,  who  has  little  else  to 
fear  than  the  stings  of  his  own  guilty  conscience." 


'v- 


■  '■'.'!■    ''lK' 


„+,  *. 


■  m^ 


% 


v#t 


* 


,    ■-  *■  •    i '     ..re,  . 


^     1 

*-    ^ 

f- 

z^- 

8d2 

*       • 

Vi 

■•r  .f. 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


CHAPTER  XLIV. 

Outfit  of  a  trapper. — Risks  to  which  he  is  subjected. — Partnership  of  trappers. 
— Enmity  of  Indians. — Distant  smoke. — A  country  on  fire. — Gun  Creek. — 
Grand  Rond. — Fine  pastures. — Perplexities  in  a  smoky  country. — Conflagra- 
tion of  forests. 


,>*! 


It  had  been  the  intention  of  Captain  Bonneville,  in  descending 
along  Snake  River,  to  scatter  his  trappers  upon  the  smaller 
streams.  In  this  way,  a  range  of  country  is  trapped  by  small 
detachments  from  a  main  body.  The  outfit  of  a  trapper  is 
generally  a  rifle,  a  pound  of  powder,  and  four  pounds  of  lead, 
with  a  bullet  mould,  seven  traps,  an  axe,  a  hatchet,  a  knife  and 
awl,  a  camp  kettle,  two  blankets,  and,  where  supplies  are  plenty, 
seven  pounds  of  flour.  He  has,  generally,  two  or  three  horses, 
to  carry  himself,  and  his  baggage  and  peltries.  Two  trappers 
commonly  go  together,  for  the  purposes  of  mutual  assistance  and 
support ;  a  larger  party  could  not  easily  escape  the  eyes  of  the 
Indians.  It  is  a  service  of  peril,  and  even  more  so  at  present 
than  formerly,  for  the  Indians,  since  they  have  got  into  the  habit 
of  trafficking  peltries  with  the  traders,  have  learnt  the  value  of 
the  beaver,  and  look  upon  the  trappers  as  poachers,  who  are 
filching  the  riches  from  their  streams,  and  interfering  with  their 
market.     They  make  no  hesitation,  therefore,  to  murder  the 


A  TRAPPING  ESTABLISHMENT. 


»1 


■f  > 


solitary  trapper,  and  thus  destroy  a  competitor,  while  they 
possess  themselves  of  his  spoils.  It  is  with  regret  we  add,  too, 
that  this  hostility  has  in  many  cases  been  instigated  by  traders, 
desirous  of  injuring  their  rivals,  but  who  have  themselves  often 
reaped  the  fruits  of  the  mischief  they  have  sown. 

When  two  trappers  undertake  any  considerable  stream, 
their  mode  of  proceeding  is,  to  hide  their  horses  in  some  lonely 
glen,  where  they  can  graze  unobserved.  They  then  build  a  small 
hut,  dig  out  a  canoe  from  a  cotton-wood  tree,  and  in  this,  poke 
along  shore  silently,  in  the  evening,  and  set  their  traps.  These, 
they  revisit  in  the  same  silent  way  at  daybreak.  When  they  take 
any  beaver,  they  bring  it  home,  skin  it,  stretch  the  skin  on  sticks 
to  dry,  and  feast  upon  the  flesh.  The  body,  hung  up  before  the 
fire,  turns  by  its  own  weight,  and  is  roasted  in  a  superior  style ; 
the  tail  is  the  trapper's  titbit ;  it  is  cut  off,  put  on  the  end  of  a 
stick,  and  toasted,  and  is  considered  even  a  greater  dainty  than 
the  tongue  or  the  marrow-bone  of  a  buffalo. 

With  all  their  silence  and  caution,  however,  the  poor  trappers 
cannot  always  escape  their  hawk-eyed  enemies.  Their  trail  has 
been  discovered,  perhaps,  and  followed  up  for  many  a  mile ;  or 
their  smoke  has  been  seen  curling  up  out  of  the  secret  glen,  or 
has  been  scented  by  the  savages,  whose  sense  of  smell  is  almost 
as  acute  as  that  of  sight.  Sometimes  they  are  pounced  upon 
when  in  the  act  of  setting  their  traps ;  at  other  times,  they  are 
roused  from  their  sleep  by  the  horrid  war-whoop ;  or,  perhaps, 
have  a  bullet  or  an  arrow  whistling  about  their  ears,  in  the  midst 
of  one  of  their  beaver  banquets.  In  this  way  they  are  picked  off, 
from  time  to  time,  and  nothing  is  known  of  them,  until,  per- 
chance, their  bones  are  found  bleaching  in  some  lonely  ravine,  or 
on  the  banks  of  some  nameless  stream,  which  from  that  time  is 


%% 


384 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


called  after  them.  Many  of  the  small  streams  beyond  the  moun- 
tains thus  perpetuate  the  names  of  unfortunate  trappers  that 
have  been  murdered  on  their  banks.  -  ifc. 

A  knowledge  of  these  dangers  deterred  Captain  Bonneville, 
in  the  present  instance,  from  detaching  small  parties  of  trappers 
as  he  had  intended ;  for  his  scouts  brought  him  word,  that  formi- 
dable bands  of  the  Banneck  Indians  were  lying  on  the  Bois6e 
and  Payette  Rivers,  at  no  great  distance,  so  that  they  would  bo 
apt  to  detect  and  cut  off  any  stragglers.  It  behooved  him,  also,  to 
keep  his  party  together,  to  guard  against  any  predatory  attack 
upon  the  main  body ;  he  continued  on  his  way,  therefore,  without 
dividing  his  forces.  And  fortunate  it  was  that  he  did  so ;  for  in 
a  little  while,  he  encountered  one  of  the  phenomena  of  the  west- 
ern wilds,  that  would  efFectually  have  prevented  his  scattered 
people  from  finding  each  other  again.  In  a  word,  it  was  the 
season  of  setting  fire  to  the  prairies.  As  he  advanced,  he  began 
to  perceive  great  clouds  of  smoke  at  a  distance,  rising  by  degrees, 
and  spreading  over  the  whole  face  of  the  country.  The  atmos- 
phere became  dry  and  surcharged  with  murky  vapor,  parching  to 
the  skin,  and  irritating  to  the  eyes.  When  travelling  among  the 
hills,  they  could  scarcely  discern  objects  at  the  distance  of  a  few 
paces ;  indeed,  the  least  exertion  of  the  vision  was  painful.  There 
was  evidently  some  vasi  conflagration  in  the  direction  toward 
which  they  were  proceeding ;  it  was  as  yet  at  a  great  distance, 
and  during  the  day,  they  could  only  see  the  smoke  rising  in 
larger  and  denser  volumes,  and  rolling  forth  in  an  immense 
canopy.  At  night,  the  skies  were  all  glowing  with  the  reflection 
of  unseen  fires  ;  hanging  in  an  immense  body  of  lurid  light,  high 
above  the  horizon. 

Having  reached  Gun  Creek,  an  important  stream  coming  from 


^'t*^ 


A  COUNTRY  ON   FIRE. 


385 


the  left,  Captain  Bonneville  turned  up  its  course,  to  traverse 
the  mountains  and  avoid  the  great  bend  of  Snake  River.  Being 
now  out  of  the  range  of  the  Bannocks,  he  sent  out  his  people  in 
all  directions  to  hunt  the  antelope  for  present  supplies ;  keeping 
the  dried  meats  for  places  where  game  might  be  scarce. 

During  four  days  that  the  party  were  ascending  Gun  Creek, 
the  smoke  continued  to  increase  so  rapidly,  that  it  was  impossible 
to  distinguish  the  face  of  the  country  and  ascertain  landmarks. 
Fortunately,  the  travellers  fell  upon  an  Indian  trail,  which  led 
them  to  the  head  waters  of  the  Fourche  de  Griace  or  Ice  River, 
sometimes  called  the  Grand  Rood.  Here  they  found  all  the 
plains  and  valleys  wrapped  in  one  vast  conflagration ;  which 
swept  over  the  long  grass  in  billows  of  flame,  shot  up  every  bush 
and  tree,  rose  in  great  columns  from  the  groves,  and  sent  up 
clouds  of  smoke  that  darkened  the  atmosphere.  To  avoid  this 
sea  of  fire,  the  travellers  had  to  pursue  their  course  close  along 
the  foot  of  the  mountains ;  but  the  irritation  from  the  smoke 
continued  to  be  tormenting. 

The  country  about  the  head  waters  of  the  Grand  Rond, 
spreads  out  into  broad  and  level  prairies,  extremely  fertile,  and 
watered  by  mountain  springs  and  rivulets.  These  prairies  are 
resorted  to  by  small  bands  of  the  Skynses,  to  pasture  their  horses, 
as  well  as  to  banquet  upon  the  salmon  which  abound  in  the  neigh- 
boring waters.  They  take  these  fish  in  great  quantities  and 
without  the  least  difficulty ;  simply  taking  them  out  of  the  water 
with  their  hands,  as  they  flounder  and  struggle  in  the  numerous 
long  shoals  of  the  principal  streams.  At  the  time  the  travellers 
passed  over  these  prairies,  some  of  the  narrow  deep  streams 
by  which  they  were  intersected,  were  completely  choked  with 
salmon,  which  they  took  in  great  numbers.     The  wolves  and 

17 


966 


BONNEVir-LE'S  ADVENTURES. 


bears  frequent  these  streams  at  tliis  season,  to  avail  themselves 
of  these  great  fisheries. 

The  travellers  continued,  for  many  days,  to  experience  great 
difficulties  and  discomforts  from  this  wide  cimflagration,  which 
seemed  to  embrace  the  whole  wilderness.  The  sun  was  for  a 
great  part  of  the  time  obscured  by  the  smoke,  and  the  loftiest 
mountains  were  hidden  from  view.  Blutidering  along  in  this 
region  of  mist  and  uncertainty,  they  were  frequently  obliged  to 
make  long  circuits,  to  avoid  obstacles  which  they  could  not  per- 
ceive until  close  upon  them.  The  Indian  trails  were  their  safest 
guides,  for  though  they  sometimes  appeared  to  lead  them  out  of 
their  direct  course,  they  always  conducted  them  to  the  passes. 

On  the  2Gth  of  August,  they  reached  the  head  of  the  Way- 
lee-way  River.  Here,  in  a  valley  of  the  mountains  through 
which  this  head  water  makes  its  way,  they  found  a  band  of  the 
Skynses,  who  were  extremely  sociable,  and  appeared  to  bo  well 
disposed,  and  as  they  spoke  the  Nez  Perc6  language,  an  inter- 
course was  easily  kept  up  with  them. 

In  the  pastures  on  the  bank  of  this  stream,  Captain  Bonne- 
ville encamped  for  a  time,  for  the  purpose  of  recruiting  the 
strength  of  his  horses.  Scouts  were  now  sent  out  to  explore  the 
surrounding  country,  and  search  for  a  convenient  pass  through 
the  mountains  towards  the  Wallamut  or  Multnomah.  After  an 
absence  of  twenty  days,  they  returned  weary  and  discouraged. 
They  had  been  harassed  and  perplexed  in  rugged  mountain  de- 
files, where  their  progress  was  continually  impeded  by  rocks  and 
precipices.  Often  they  had  been  obliged  to  travel  along  the 
edges  of  frightful  ravines,  where  a  false  step  would  have  been 
fatal.  In  one  of  these  passes,  a  horse  fell  from  the  brink  of  a 
precipice,  and  would  have  been  dashed  to  pieces,  had  he  not 


I.I 


BURNING  FORESTS. 


387 


«•. 


lodgfid  among  the  braneljcs  of  a  tree,  from  which  ho  was  extri- 
cated with  great  difficulty.  These,  however,  were  not  the  worst 
of  their  difficulties  and  perils.  The  great  conflagration  of  the 
country,  which  had  harassed  the  main  party  in  its  march,  was  still 
more  awful,  the  further  this  exploring  party  proceeded.  The 
flames,  which  swept  rapidly  over  the  light  vegetation  of  the  prai- 
ries, assumed  a  fiercer  character,  and  took  a  stronger  hold  amidst 
the  wooded  glens  and  ravines  of  the  mo':..tains.  Some  of  the 
deep  gorges  and  defiles  sent  up  sheets  of  ilame,  and  clouds  of 
lurid  smoke,  and  sparks  and  cinders,  that  in  the  night  made  them 
resemble  the  craters  of  volcanoes.  The  groves  and  forests,  too, 
which  crowned  the  cliffs,  shot  up  their  towering  columns  of  fire, 
and  added  to  the  furnace  glow  of  the  mountains.  With  these 
stupendous  sights  were  combined  the  rushing  blasts  caused  by 
the  rarefied  air,  which  roared  and  howled  through  the  narrow 
glens,  and  whirled  forth  the  smoke  and  flames  in  impetuous 
wreaths.  Ever  and  anon,  too,  was  heard  the  crash  of  falling 
trees,  sometimes  tumbling  from  crags  and  precipices,  with  tremen- 
dous sounds. 

In  the  daytime,  the  mountains  were  wrapped  in  smoke  so 
dense  and  blinding,  that  the  explorers,  if  by  chance  they  sepa- 
rated, could  only  find  each  other  by  shouting.  Often,  too,  they 
had  to  grope  their  way  through  the  yet  burning  forests,  in  con- 
stant peril  from  the  limbs  and  trunks  of  trees,  which  frequently 
fell  across  their  path.  At  length  they  gave  up  the  attempt  to 
find  a  pass  as  hopeless,  under  actual  circumstances,  and  made 
their  way  back  to  the  camp  to  report  their  failure. 


388 


BONNEVILLK'S  ADVKNTURRS. 


h: 


CHAPTER  XLV. 

The  Skynaes — their  traffic— hunting — food — horses. — A  horse-rnce. — Devo- 
tional feeling  of  the  Skynses,  Nez  Percds,  and  Flathends. — Prayers. — Ex- 
hortations.— A  preacher  on  horseback. — Effect  of  religion  on  the  manners 
of  the  tribes. — A  new  light. 


During  the  absence  of  this  detachment,  a  sociable  intcroourso 
had  been  kept  up  between  the  main  party  and  the  Skynses,  who 
had  removed  into  the  neighborhood  of  the  camp.  These  people 
dwell  about  the  waters  of  the  Way-lee-way  and  the  adjacent 
country,  and  trade  regularly  with  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company ; 
generally  giving  horses  in  exchange  for  the  articles  of  which  they 
stand  in  need.  They  bring  beaver  skins,  also,  to  the  trading 
posts;  not  procured  by  trapping,  but  by  a  course  of  internal 
traffic  with  the  shy  and  ignorant  Shoshokoes  and  Too-cl-icans, 
who  keep  in  distant  and  unfrequented  parts  of  the  country,  and 
will  not  venture  near  the  trading  houses.  The  Skynses  hunt  the 
deer  and  elk,  occasionally ;  and  depend,  for  a  part  of  the  year,  on 
fishing.  Their  main  subsistence,  however,  is  upon  roots,  eape- 
cially  the  kamash.  This  bulbous  root  is  said  to  be  of  a  delicious 
flavor,  and  highly  nutritious.  The  women  dig  it  up  in  great 
quantities,  steam  it,  and  deposit  it  in  caches  for  winter  provisions. 
It  grows  spontaneously,  and  absolutely  covers  the  plains. 

This  tribe  were  comfortably  clad  and  equipped.     They  had  a 


I' 


INDIAN    DEVOTIONS. 


389 


few  rifles  among  them,  and  were  extremely  desirous  of  bartering 
for  those  of  Captain  Bonneville's  men  ;  offering  a  couple  of  good 
running  horses  for  a  light  rifle.  Tlieir  flrst-rate  horses,  however, 
were  not  to  be  procured  from  them  on  any  terms.  They  almost 
invariably  use  ponies ;  but  of  a  breed  infinitely  superior  to  any 
in  the  United  States.  They  are  fond  of  trying  their  speed  and 
bottom,  and  of  betting  upon  them. 

As  Captain  Bonneville  was  desirous  of  judging  of  the  compa- 
rative merit  of  their  horses,  he  purchased  one  of  their  racers,  and 
had  a  trial  of  speed  between  that,  an  American,  and  a  Shoshonie, 
which  were  supposed  to  be  well  matched.  The  race  course  was 
for  the  distance  of  one  mile  and  a  half  out  and  back.  For  the 
first  half  mile,  the  American  took  the  lead,  by  a  few  hands ;  but, 
losing  his  wind,  soon  fell  far  behind ;  leaving  the  Shoshonie  and 
Skynse  to  contend  together.  For  a  mile  and  a  half,  they  went 
head  and  head ;  but  at  the  turn,  the  Skynse  took  the  lead,  and 
won  the  race  with  great  ease  ;  scarce  drawing  a  quick  breath  when 
all  was  over. 

The  Skynscs,  like  the  Ncz  Percrs  and  the  Flatheads,  have  a 
strong  devotional  feeling,  which  has  been  successfully  cultivated 
by  some  of  the  resident  personages  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany. Sunday  is  invariably  kept  sacred  among  these  tribes. 
They  will  not  raise  their  camp  on  that  day,  unless  in  extreme 
cases  of  danger  or  hunger :  neither  will  they  hunt,  nor  fish,  nor 
trade,  nor  perform  any  kind  of  labor  on  that  day.  A  part  of  it 
is  passed  in  prayer  and  religious  ceremonies.  Some  chief,  who 
is,  generally,  at  the  same  time  what  is  called  a  "  medicine  man," 
assembles  the  community.  After  invoking  blessings  from  the 
Deity,  he  addresses  the  assemblage ;  exhorting  them  to  good  con- 
duct ;  to  be  diligent  in  providing  for  their  families ;  to  abstain 


390 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


from  lying  and  stealing  ;  to  avoid  ([uarrolling  or  cheating  in  their 
play,  and  to  bo  ju8t  and  liospitablc  to  all  strangers  whu  may  be 
among  them.  Prayers  and  exhortations  are  also  made,  early  in 
the  morning,  on  week  days.  Sometimes,  uU  this  is  done  by  the 
chief,  from  horseback  ;  nioving  slowly  about  the  camp,  with  his 
hat  on,  and  uttering  his  exhortations  with  a  loud  voice.  On  all 
occasions,  the  bystanders  listen  with  profound  attention ;  and  at 
the  end  of  every  sentence,  respond  one  word  in  unison  ;  appa- 
rently equivalent  to  an  amen.  While  these  prayers  and  exhorta- 
tions are  going  on,  every  employment  in  the  camp  is  suspended. 
If  an  Indian  is  riding  by  the  place,  he  dismounts,  holds  his 
horse,  and  attends  with  reverence  until  all  is  done.  When  the 
chief  has  finished  his  prayer  or  exhortation,  he  says,  "  I  have 
done ;"  upon  which  there  is  a  general  exclamation  in  unison. 

With  these  religious  services,  probably  derived  from  the  white 
men,  the  tribes  above-mentioned,  mingle  some  of  their  old  Indian 
ceremonials  ;  such  as  dancing  to  the  cadence  of  a  song  or  ballad  ; 
which  is  generally  done  in  a  large  lodge,  provided  for  the  pur- 
pose. Besides  Sundays,  they  likewise  observe  the  cardinal  holi- 
days of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church. 

Whoever  has  introduced  these  simple  forms  of  religion  among 
these  poor  savages,  has  evidently  understood  their  characters  and 
capacities,  and  effected  a  great  melioration  of  their  manners.  Of 
this,  we  speak  not  merely  from  the  testimony  of  Captain  Bonne- 
ville, but,  likewise,  from  that  of  Mr.  Wyeth,  who  passed  some 
months  in  a  travelling  camp  of  the  Flatheads.  "  During  the  time 
I  have  been  with  them,"  says  he,  "  I  have  never  known  an  in- 
stance of  theft  among  them :  the  least  thing,  even  to  a  bead  or 
pin,  is  brought  to  you,  if  found  ;  and  often,  things  that  have  been 
thrown  away.     Neither  have  I  known  any  quarrelling,  nor  lying. 


I  i 


EFFECTS  OF  RELIOFON. 


391 


TbiH  abHence  of  all  quarrelling  tho  more  surprised  mc,  when  I 
came  to  see  tho  various  occasions  that  would  liavo  given  rise  to  it 
among  the  whites  :  the  crowding  together  of  from  twelve  to 
eighteen  hundred  horses,  which  have  to  be  driven  into  camp  at 
night,  to  be  picketed  ;  to  be  packed  in  the  mortiing  ;  the  gather- 
ing of  fuel  in  places  where  it  is  extremely  scanty.  All  this,  how- 
ever, is  done  without  confusion  or  disturbance. 

"  They  have  a  mild,  playful,  laughing  disposition  ;  and  this 
is  portrayed  in  their  countf^nances.  They  are  polite,  and  unob- 
trusive. When  one  §ppaks,  tho  rest  pay  strict  attention :  when 
he  is  done,  another  assents  by  '  yes,'  or  dissents  by  '  no ;'  and 
then  states  his  reasons,  which  arc  jitttcued  to  with  equal  atten- 
tion. Even  the  children  are  more  peaceable  than  other  children. 
I  never  heard  an  angry  word  among  them,  nor  any  quarrelling  ; 
although  there  were,  at  least,  five  hundred  of  them  together,  and 
continually  at  play.  With  all  this  quietness  of  spirit,  they  are 
brave  when  put  to  the  test ;  and  are  an  overmatch  for  an  equal 
number  of  Blackfeet." 

The  foregoing  observations,  though  gathered  from  Mr.  Wyeth 
as  relative  to  the  Flatheads,  apply,  in  the  main,  to  the  Skynsus, 
also.  Captain  Bonneville,  during  his  sojourn  with  the  latter, 
took  constant  occasion,  in  conversing  with  tlieit  principal  men,  to 
encourage  them  in  the  cultivation  of  moral  and  religious  habits ; 
drawing  a  comparison  between  their  peaceable  and  comfortable 
course  of  life,  and  that  of  other  tribes,  and  attributing  it  to  their 
superior  sense  of  morality  and  religion.  He  frequently  attended 
their  religious  services,  with  his  people  ;  always  enjoining  on  the 
latter  the  most  reverential  deportment ;  and  he  observed  that 
the  poor  Indians  were  always  pleased  to  have  the  white  men 
present.  *   .     . 


399 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVEliTTURES. 


The  disposition  of  these  tribes  is  evidently  favorable  to  a 
considerable  degree  of  civilization.  A  few  farmers,  settled  among 
them,  might  lead  them,  Captain  Bonneville  thinks,  to  till  the 
earth  and  cultivate  grain  ;  the  country  of  the  Skynses,  and  Nez 
Percds,  is  admirably  adapted  for  the  raising  of  cattle.  A  Chris- 
tian missionary  or  two,  and  some  trifling  assistance  from  govern- 
ment, to  protect  them  from  the  predatory  and  warlike  tribes, 
might  lay  the  foundation  of  a  Christian  people  in  the  midst  of  the 
great  western  wilderness,  wlio  would  "  wear  the  Americans  near 
their  hearts." 

We  must  not  omit  to  observe,  however,  in  qualification  of  the 
sanctity  of  this  Sabbath  in  the  wilderness,  that  these  tribes,  who 
are  all  ardently  addicted  to  gambling  and  horse-racing,  make 
Sunday  a  peculiar  day  for  recreations  of  the  kind,  not  deeming 
them  in  any  wise  out  of  season.  After  prayers  and  pious  cere- 
monials are  over,  there  is  scarce  an  hour  in  the  day,  says  Captain 
Bonneville,  that  you  do  not  see  several  horses  racing  at  full  speed ; 
and  in  every  corner  of  the  camp,  are  groups  of  gamblers,  ready 
to  stake  every  thing  upon  the  all-absorbing  game  of  hand.  The 
Indians,  says  Wyeth,  appear  to  enjoy  their  amusements  with 
more  zest  than  the  whites.  They  are  great  gamblers ;  and  in 
proportion  to  their  means,  play  bolder,  and  bet  higher  than  white 
men. 

The  cultivation  of  the  religious  feeling,  above  noted,  among 
the  savages,  has  been,  at  times,  a  convenient  policy,  with  some 
of  the  more  knowing  traders  ;  who  have  derived  great  credit  and 
influence  among  them,  by  being  considered  "  medicine  men  ;" 
that  is,  men  gifted  with  mysterious  knowledge.  This  feeling  is, 
also,  at  times,  played  upon  by  religious  charlatans ;  who  are  to 
be  found  in  savage,  as  well  as  civilized  life.     One  of  these  was 


n 
n 

ai 


A  NEW  LIGHT. 


393 


noted  by  Wyeth,  during  his  sojourn  among  the  Flatheads.  A 
new  great  man,  says  he,  is  rising  in  the  camp,  who  aims  at  power 
and  sway.  He  covers  his  designs  under  the  ample  cloak  of  reli- 
gion ;  inculcating  some  new  doctrines  and  ceremonials  among 
those  who  are  more  simple  than  himself.  He  has  already  made 
proselytes  of  one-fifth  of  the  camp  ;  beginning  by  working  on  the 
women,  the  children,  and  the  weak-minded.  His  followers  are 
all  dancing  on  the  plain,  to  their  own  ■  vocal  music.  The  more 
knowing  ones  of  the  tribe  look  on  and  laugh  ;  thinking  it  all  too 
foolish  to  do  harm ;  but  they  will  soon  find  that  women,  children, 
and  fools,  form  a  large  majority  of  every  community,  and  they 
will  have,  eventually,  to  follow  the  new  light,  or  be  considered 
among  the  profane.  As  soon  as  a  preacher,  or  pseudo  prophet 
of  the  kind,  gets  followers  enough,  he  either  takes  command  of 
the  tribe,  or  branches  off  and  sets  up  for  an  independent  chief 
and  "  medicine  man."  .  . 


394 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES 


CHAPTER  XLVI. 

Scarcity  in  the  camp. — Refusal  of  supplies  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.— 
Conduct  of  the  Indians. — A  hungry  retreat — John  Day's  River. — The 
Blue  Mountains. — Salmon  fishing  on  Snake  River. — Messengers  from  the 
Crow  country. — Bear  River  valley. — Immense  migration  of  buffalo. — 
Danger  of  buffalo  hunting. — A  wounded  Indian. — Eutaw  Indians. — A 
,    "  surround  "  of  antelopes. 

Provisions  were  now  growing  scanty  in  the  camp,  and  Captain 
Bonneville  found  it  necessary  to  seek  a  new  neighborhood. 
Taking  leave,  therefore,  of  his  friends,  the  Skynses,  he  set  off  to 
the  westward,  and,  crossing  a  low  range  of  mountains,  encamped 
on  the  head  waters  of  the  Ottolais.  Being  now  within  thirty 
miles  of  Fort  Wallah-Wallah,  the  trading  post  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  he  sent  a  small  detachment  of  men  thither,  to 
purchase  corn  for  the  subsistence  of  his  party.  The  men  were 
well  received  at  the  fort ;  but  all  supplies  for  their  camp  were 
peremptorily  refused.  Tempting  offers  were  made  them,  how- 
ever, if  they  would  leave  their  present  employ,  and  enter  into  the 
service  of  the  company ;  but  they  were  not  to  be  seduced. 

When  Captain  Bonneville  saw  his  messengers  return  empty- 
handed,  he  ordered  an  instant  move,  for  there  was  imminent 
danger  of  famine.  He  pushed  forward  down  the  course  of  the 
Ottolais,  which  runs  diagonal  to  the  Columbia,  and  falls  into 


A  LOCKED-UP  COUNTRY. 


395 


it  about  fifty  miles  below  the  Wallah-Wallah.  His  route  lay 
through  a  beautiful  undulating  country,  covered  with  horses 
belonging  to  the  Skynses,  who  sent  them  there  for  pasturage. 

On  reaching  the  Columbia,  Captain  Bonneville  hoped  to  open 
a  trade  with  the  natives,  for  fish  and  other  provisions,  but  to  his 
surprise,  they  kept  aloof,  and  even  hid  themselves  on  his  approach. 
He  soon  discovered  that  they  were  under  the  influence  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  who  had  forbidden  them  to  trade,  or 
hold  any  communion  with  him.  He  proceeded  along  the  Colum- 
bia, but  it  was  every  where  the  same ;  not  an  article  of  provisions 
was  to  be  obtained  from  the  natives,  and  he  was,  at  length, 
obliged  to  kill  a  couple  of  his  horses  to  sustain  his  famishing 
people.  He  now  came  to  a  halt,  and  consulted  what  was  to 
be  done.  The  broad  and  beautiful  Columbia  lay  before  them, 
smooth  and  unruffled  as  a  mirror ;  a  little  more  journeying 
would  take  them  to  its  lower  region ;  to  the  noble  valley  of  the 
Wallaraut,  their  projected  winter  quarters.  To  advance  under 
present  circumstances  would  be  to  court  starvation.  The  re- 
sources of  the  country  were  locked  against  them,  by  the  influence 
of  a  jealous  and  powerful  monopoly.  If  they  reached  the  Walla- 
mut,  they  could  scarcely  hope  to  obtain  sufficient  supplies  for  the 
winter;  if  they  lingered  any  longer  in  the  country,  the  snows 
would  gather  upon  the  mountains  and  cut  off  their  retreat.  By 
hastening  their  return,  they  would  be  able  to  reach  the  Blue 
Mountains  just  in  time  to  find  the  elk,  the  deer,  and  the  bighorn ; 
and  after  they  had  supplied  themselves  with  provisions,  they 
might  push  through  the  mountains,  before  they  were  entirely 
blocked  up  by  snow.  Influenced  by  these  considerations,  Cap- 
tain Bonneville  reluctantly  turned  his  back  a  second  time  on  the 
Columbia,  and  set  off  for  the  Blue  Mountains.     He  took  his 


iB 


396 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


course  up  John  Day's  Biver,  so  called  from  one  of  the  hunters 
in  the  original  Astorian  enterprise.  As  famine  was  at  his  heels, 
he  travelled  fast,  and  reached  the  mountains  by  the  1st  of  Octo- 
ber. He  entered  by  the  opening  made  by  John  Day's  River ;  it 
was  a  rugged  and  difficult  defile,  but  he  and  his  men  had  become 
accustomed  to  hard  scrambles  of  the  kind.  Fortunately,  the 
September  rains  had  extinguished  the  fires  which  recently  spread 
over  these  regions ;  and  the  mountains,  no  longer  wrapped  in 
smoke,  now  revealed  all  their  grandeur  and  sublimity  to  the  eye. 

They  were  disappointed  in  their  expectation  of  finding  abun- 
dant game  in  the  mountains  ;  large  bands  of  the  natives  had 
passed  through,  returning  from  their  fishing  expeditions,  and 
had  driven  all  the  game  before  them.  It  was  only  now  and  then 
that  the  hunters  could  bring  in  sufficient  to  keep  the  party  from 
starvation. 

To  add  to  their  distress,  they  mistook  their  route,  and  wan- 
dered for  ten  days  among  high  and  bald  hills  of  clay.  At  length, 
after  much  perplexity,  they  made  their  way  to  the  banks  of  Snake 
River,  following  the  course  of  which,  they  were  sure  to  reach 
their  place  of  destination. 

It  was  the  20th  of  October  when  they  found  themselves  once 
more  upon  this  noted  stream.  The  Shoshokoes,  whom  they  had 
met  with  in  such  scanty  numbers  on  their  journey  down  the  river, 
now  absolutely  thronged  its  banks  to  profit  by  the  abundance  of 
salmon,  and  lay  up  a  stock  for  winter  provisions.  Scaffolds  were 
every  where  erected,  and  immense  quantities  of  fish  drying  upon 
them.  At  this  season  of  the  year,  however,  the  salmon  arc  ex- 
tremely poor,  and  the  travellers  needed  their  keen  sauce  of  hun- 
ger to  give  them  a  relish. 

In  some  places  the  shores  were  completely  covered  with  a 


APPROACH  OF  WINTER. 


m 


! 


le  hunters 
I  his  heels, 
t  of  Octo- 
River;  it 
id  become 
ately,  the 
tly  spread 
rapped  in 
0  the  eye. 
ing  abun- 
tives  had 
ions,  and 
and  then 
irty  from 

and  wan- 
it  length, 
of  Snake 
to  reach 

ves  once 
;hey  had 
he  river, 
dance  of 
Ids  were 
iig  upon 
arc  ex- 
of  hun- 

with  a 


stratum  of  dead  salmon,  cx'nausted  in  ascending  the  river,  or  de- 
stroyed at  the  falls  ;  the  fetid  odor  of  which  tainted  the  air. 

It  was  not  until  the  travellers  reached  the  head  waters  of  the 
Portneuf,  that  they  really  found  themselves  in  a  region  of  abun- 
dance. Here  the  buffalo  were  in  immense  herds ;  and  here  they 
remained  for  three  days,  slaying,  and  cooking,  and  feasting,  and 
indemnifying  themselves  by  an  enormous  carnival,  for  a  long  and 
hungry  Lent.  Their  horses,  too,  found  good  pasturage,  and  en- 
joyed a  little  rest  after  a  severe  spell  of  hard  travelling. 

During  this  period,  two  horsemen  arrived  at  the  camp,  who 
proved  to  be  messengers  sent  express  for  supplies  from  Montero's 
party  ;  which  had  been  sent  to  beat  up  the  Crow  country  and  the 
Black  Hills,  and  to  winter  on  the  Arkansas.  They  reported  that 
all  was  \\  oil  with  the  party,  but  that  they  had  not  been  able  to 
accomplish  the  whole  of  their  mission,  and  were  still  in  the  Crow 
country,  where  they  should  remain  until  joined  by  Captain  Bon- 
neville in  the  spring.  The  captain  retained  the  messengers  with 
him  until  the  17th  of  November,  when,  having  reached  the  caches 
on  Bear  River,  and  procured  thence  the  required  supplies,  he 
sent  them  back  to  their  party  ;  appointing  a  rendezvous  towards 
the  last  of  June  following,  on  the  forks  of  Wind  River  valley,  in 
the  Crow  country. 

He  now  remained  several  days  encamped  near  the  caches,  and 
having  discovered  a  small  band  of  Shoshonies  in  his  neighbor- 
hood, purchased  from  them  lodges,  furs,  and  other  articles  of 
winter  comfort,  and  arranged  with  them  to  encamp  together 
during  the  winter. 

The  place  designed  by  the  captain  for  the  wintering  ground 
was  on  the  upper  part  of  Bear  River,  some  distance  off.  He  de- 
layed approaching  it  as  long  as  possible,  in  order  to  avoid  driving 


398 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


off  the  buifalo,  which  would  be  needed  for  winter  provisions.  Ho 
accordingly  moved  forward  but  slowly,  merely  as  the  want  of 
game  and  grass  obliged  him  to  shift  his  position.  The  weather 
had  already  become  extremely  cold,  and  the  snow  lay  to  a  con- 
siderable depth.  To  enable  the  horses  to  carry  as  much  dried 
meat  as  possible,  he  caused  a  cache  to  be  made,  in  which  all  the 
baggage  that  could  be  spared  was  deposited.  This  done,  the 
party  continued  to  move  slowly  toward  their  winter  quarters. 

They  were  not  doomed,  however,  to  suffer  from  scarcity  dur- 
ing the  present  winter.  The  people  upon  Snake  lliver  having 
chased  oif  the  buffalo  before  the  snow  had  become  deep,  immense 
herds  now  came  trooping  over  the  mountains  ;  forming  dark 
masses  on  their  sides,  from  which  their  deep-mouthed  bellowing 
sounded  like  the  low  peals  and  mutterings  from  a  gathering  thun- 
der-cloud. In  eff"ect,  the  cloud  broke,  and  down  came  the  torrent 
thundering  into  the  valley.  It  is  utterly  impossible,  according 
to  Captain  Bonneville,  to  convey  an  idea  of  the  effect  produced 
by  the  sight  of  such  countless  throngs  of  animals  of  such  bulk 
and  spirit,  all  rushing  forward  as  if  swept  on  by  a  whirlwind. 

The  long  privation  which  the  travellers  had  suffered  gave  un- 
common ardor  to  their  present  hunting.  One  of  the  Indians 
attached  to  the  party,  finding  himself  on  horseback  in  the  midst 
of  the  buff"aloes,  without  either  rifle,  or  bow  and  arrows,  dashed 
after  a  fine  cow  that  was  passing  close  by  him,  and  plunged  his 
knife  into  her  side  with  such  lucky  aim  as  to  bring  her  to  the 
ground.  It  was  a  daring  deed  ;  but  hunger  had  made  him  almost 
d'.sperate.  - 

The  buffaloes  are  sometimes  tenacious  of  life,  and  must  be 
wounded  in  particular  parts.  A  ball  striking  the  shagged  front- 
let of  a  bull,  produces  no  other  effect  than  a  toss  of  the  head, 


THE  GORED  HUNTER. 


399 


immense 


and  greater  exasperation  ;  on  the  contrary,  a  ball  striking  the 
forehead  of  a  cow,  is  fatal.  Several  instances  occurred  during 
this  great  hunting  bout,  of  bulls  fighting  furiously  after  having 
received  mortal  wounds.  Wyeth,  also,  was  witness  to  an  instance 
of  the  kind  while  encamped  with  Indians.  During  a  grand  hunt 
of  the  buffalo,  one  of  the  Indians  pressed  a  bull  so  closely  that 
the  animal  turned  suddenly  upon  him.  His  horse  stopped  short, 
or  started  back,  and  threw  him.  Before  he  could  rise,  the  bull 
rushed  furiously  upon  him,  and  gored  him  in  the  chest,  so  that 
his  breath  came  out  at  the  aperture.  He  was  conveyed  back  to 
the  camp,  and  his  wound  was  dressed.  Giving  himself  up  for 
slain,  he  called  round  him  his  friends,  and  made  his  will  by  word 
of  mouth.  It  was  something  like  a  death  chant,  and  at  the  end 
of  every  sentence  those  around  responded  in  concord.  He  ap- 
peared no  ways  intimidated  by  the  approach  of  death.  "  I  think," 
adds  Wyeth,  "  the  Indians  die  better  than  the  white  men ;  per- 
haps, from  having  less  fear  about  the  future." 

The  buflfalo  may  be  approached  very  near,  if  the  hunter  keeps 
to  the  leeward ;  but  they  are  quick  of  scent,  and  will  take  the 
alarm  and  move  off  from  a  party  of  hunters,  to  the  windward, 
even  when  two  miles  distant. 

The  vast  herds  which  had  poured  down  into  the  Bear  River 
valley,  were  now  snow-bound,  and  remained  in  the  neighborhood 
of  the  camp  throughout  the  winter.  This  furnished  the  trappers 
and  their  Indian  friends  a  perpetual  carnival ;  so  that,  to  slay 
and  eat  seemed  to  be  the  main  occupations  of  the  day.  It  is 
astonishing  what  loads  of  meat  it  requires  to  cope  with  the  appe- 
tite of  a  hunting  camp. 

The  ravens  and  wolves  soon  came  in  for  their  share  of  the 
good  cheer.     These  constant  attendants  of  the  hunter  gathered 


400 


BONNEVILLE'S   ADVENTURES. 


in  vast  numbers  as  the  winter  advanced.  They  might  bo  com- 
pletely out  of  sight,  but  at  the  report  of  a  gun,  flights  of  ravens 
would  immediately  be  seen  hovering  in  the  air,  no  one  knew 
whence  they  came ;  while  the  sharp  visages  of  the  wolves  would 
peep  down  from  the  brow  of  every  hill,  waiting  for  the  hunter's 
departure,  to  pounce  upon  the  carcass. 

Beside  the  buffaloes,  there  were  other  neighbors  snow-bound 
in  the  valley,  whose  presence  did  not  promise  to  be  so  advanta- 
geous. This  was  a  band  of  Eutaw  Indians,  who  were  encamped 
higher  up  on  the  river.  They  are  a  poor  tribe,  that,  in  a  scale  of 
the  various  tribes  inhabiting  these  regions,  would  rank  between 
the  Shoshonies  and  tlie  Shoshokoes  or  Root  Diggers ;  though 
more  bold  and  warlike  than  the  latter.  They  have  but  few  rifles 
among  them,  and  are  generally  armed  with  bows  and  arrows. 

As  this  baud  and  the  Shoshonies  were  at  deadly  feud,  on  ac- 
count of  old  grievances,  and  as  neither  party  stood  in  awe  of  the 
other,  it  was  feared  some  bloody  scenes  might  ensue.  Captain 
Bonneville,  therefore,  undertook  the  office  of  pacificator,  and  sent 
to  the  Eutaw  chiefs,  inviting  them  to  a  friendly  smoke,  in  order 
to  bring  about  a  reconciliation.  His  invitation  was  proudly  de- 
clined ;  whereupon  he  went  to  them  in  person,  and  succeeded  in 
eifecting  a  suspension  of  hostilities,  until  the  chiefs  of  the  two 
tribes  could  meet  in  council.  Tlie  braves  of  the  two  rival  camps 
sullenly  acquiesced  in  the  arrangement.  They  would  take  their 
scats  upon  the  hill  tops,  and  watch  their  quondam  enemies  hunt- 
ing the  buflalo  in  the  plain  below,  and  evidently  repine,  that  their 
hands  were  tied  up  from  a  skirmish.  The  worthy  captain,  how- 
ever, succeeded  in  carrying  through  his  benevolent  mediation. 
The  chiefs  met ;  the  amicable  pipe  was  smoked,  the  hatchet  buried, 
and  peace  formally  proclaimed.     After  this,  both  camps  united 


Crr; 


I  I 


ANTELOPE   HUNTING. 


401 


and  mingled  in  social  intercourse.  Private  quarrels,  however, 
would  occasionally  occur  in  hunting,  about  the  division  of  the 
game,  and  blows  would  sometimes  be  exchanged  over  the  carcass 
of  a  buffalo ;  but  the  chiefs  wisely  took  no  notice  of  these  indivi- 
dual brawls. 

One  day,  the  scouts,  who  had  been  ranging  the  hills,  brought 
news  of  several  largo  herds  of  antelopes  in  a  small  valley  at  no 
great  distance.  This  produced  a  sensation  among  the  Indians, 
for  both  tribes  were  in  ragged  condition,  and  sadly  in  want  of 
those  shirts  made  of  the  skin  of  the  antelope.  It  was  deter- 
mined to  have  "  a  surround,"  as  the  mode  of  hunting  that  ani- 
mal is  called.  Every  thing  now  assumed  an  air  of  mystic  so- 
lemnity and  importance.  The  chiefs  prepared  their  medicines  or 
charms,  each  according  to  his  own  method,  or  fancied  inspiration, 
generally  with  the  compound  of  certain  simples ;  others  consulted 
the  entrails  of  animals  which  they  had  sacrificed,  and  thence 
drew  favorable  auguries.  After  much  grave  smoking  and  delibe- 
rating, it  was  at  length  proclaimed,  that  all  who  were  able  to  lift 
a  club,  man,  woman,  or  child,  should  muster  for  "  the  surround." 
When  all  had  congregated,  they  moved  in  rude  procession  to 
the  nearest  point  of  the  valley  in  question,  and  there  halted. 
Another  course  of  smoking  and  deliberating,  of  which  the  Indians 
are  so  fond,  took  place  among  the  chiefs.  Directions  were  then 
issued  for  the  horsemen  to  make  a  circuit  of  about  seven  miles, 
so  as  to  encompass  the  herd.  When  this  was  done,  the  whole 
mounted  force  dashed  off,  simultaneously,  at  full  speed,  shouting 
and  yelling  at  the  top  of  their  voices.  In  a  short  space  of  time, 
the  antelopes,  started  from  their  hiding  places,  came  bounding 
from  all  points  into  the  valley.  The  riders  now  gradually  con- 
tracting their  circle,  brought  them  nearer  and  nearer  to  the  spot, 


403 


nONNKVILLK'H  ADVENTURKa. 


where  the  senior  chief,  surrounded  by  the  elders,  male  and  female, 
was  seated  in  supervJHion  of  the  chase.  The  antelopes,  nearly 
exhausted  with  fatigue  and  fright,  and  bewildered  by  perpetual 
whooping,  made  no  effort  to  break  through  the  ring  of  the  hunt- 
ers, but  ran  round  in  small  circles,  until  man,  woman,  and  child, 
boat  them  down  with  bludgeons.  Such  is  the  nature  of  that 
species  of  antelope  hunting,  technically  called  "  a  surround." 


A  frhtivk  winter. 


CHAPTER  XLVII. 

A  festive  winter. — Converwon  of  the  HliOHlionieH. — Visit  of  two  free  triippern. 
— Cinyety  in  the  ennip. — A  touch  of  the  tender  paSHion. — The  reelninied 
i>(|unw. — An  Indian  fine  lady. — An  elopement. — A  pursuit. — Market  value 
of  a  bud  wife. 

Gamk  continued  to  abound  throughout  the  winter ;  and  the  camp 
was  overHtocked  with  provisions.  Beef  and  vcniHon,  liumps  and 
haunches,  buffalo  tongues  and  niarrow-bone.s,  were  constantly 
cooking  at  every  fire ;  and  the  whole  atmosphere  was  redolent 
with  the  savory  fumes  of  roast  meat.  It  was,  indeed,  a  continual 
"  feast  of  fat  things,"  and  though  there  might  be  a  lack  of  "  wine 
upon  the  lees,"  yet,  we  have  shown  that  a  substitute  was  occa- 
sionally to  be  found  in  honey  and  alcohol. 

Both  the  Shoshonies  and  the  Eutaws  conducted  themselves 
with  great  propriety.  It  is  true,  they  now  and  then  filched  a  few 
trifles  from  their  good  friends,  the  Big  Hearts,  when  their  backs 
were  turned  ;  but  then,  they  always  treated  them,  to  their  faces, 
with  the  utmost  deference  and  respect ;  and  good-humoredly  vied 
with  the  trappers  in  all  kinds  of  feats  of  activity  and  mirthful 
sports.  The  two  tribes  maintained  towards  each  other,  also,  a 
friendliness  of  aspect,  which  gave  Captain  Bonneville  reason  to 
hope  that  all  past  animosity  was  eflFectually  buried. 

The  two  rival  bands,  however,  had  not  long  been  mingled  in 


404 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


this  social  manner,  before  their  anr  ont  jealousy  began  to  break 
out,  in  a  now  form.  The  senior  chief  of  the  Shoshonies  was  a 
thinking  man,  and  a  man  of  observation.  Ho  had  been  among 
the  Nez  Percos,  listened  to  their  new  code  of  morality  and  reli- 
gion received  from  the  white  men,  and  attended  their  devotional 
ej^frcises.  He  had  observed  the  effect  of  all  this,  in  elevating 
the  tribe  in  the  estimation  of  the  white  men  ;  and  determined, 
by  the  same  means,  to  gain  for  his  own  tribe  a  superiority  over 
their  ignorant  rivals,  the  Eutaws.  He  accordingly  assembled  his 
people,  and  promulgated  among  tliem  the  mongrel  doctrines  and 
form  of  worship  of  the  Nez  Percos  ;  recommending  the  same  to 
their  adoption.  The  Shoshonies  were  struck  with  the  novelty, 
at  least,  of  the  measure,  and  entered  into  it  with  spirit.  They 
began  to  observe  Sundays  and  holidays,  and  to  have  their  devo- 
tional dances,  and  chants,  and  other  ceremonials,  about  which,  the 
ignorant  Eutaws  knew  nothing  ;  while  they  exerted  their  usual 
competition  in  shooting  and  horseracing,  and  the  renowned  game 
of  hand. 

Matters  were  going  on  thus  pleasantly  and  prosperously,  in 
this  motley  community  of  white  and  red  men,  when,  one  morn- 
ing, two  stark  free  trappers,  arrayed  in  the  height  of  savage  finery, 
and  mounted  on  steeds  as  fine  and  as  fiery  as  themselves,  and  all 
jingling  with  hawks'  bells,  came  galloping,  with  whoop  and  halloo, 
into  the  camp. 

They  were  fresh  from  the  winter  encampment  of  the  Ameri- 
can Fur  Company,  in  the  Green  llivcr  valley ;  and  had  come 
to  pay  their  old  comrades  of  Captain  Bonneville's  company  a 
visit.  An  idea  may  be  formed,  from  the  scenes  we  have  already 
given  of  conviviality  in  the  wilderness,  of  the  manner  in  which 
these  game  birds  were  received  by  those  of  their  feather  in  the 


THE  TWO  DASHING  FREE  TRAPPERS. 


M 
405 


oamp ;  what  feasting,  what  rovolling,  what  boasting,  what  brag- 
ging, what  ranting  and  roaring,  and  racing  and  gambling,  and 
squabbling  and  fighting,  ensued  among  these  boon  companions. 
Captain  Bonneville,  it  is  true,  maintained  always  a  certain  degree 
of  law  and  order  in  his  camp,  and  checked  each  fierce  excess  : 
but  the  trappers,  in  their  seasons  of  idleness  and  relaxation, 
require  a  degree  of  license  and  indulgence,  to  repay  them  for  the 
long  privations,  and  almost  incredible  hardships  of  their  periods 
of  active  service.  '  , 

In  the  midst  of  all  this  feasting  and  frolicking,  a  freak  of  the 
tender  passion  intervened,  and  wrought  a  complete  change  in  the 
scene.  Among  the  Indian  beauties  in  the  camp  of  the  Eutaws 
and  Shoshonies,  the  free  trappers  discovered  two,  who  had  whilom 
figured  as  their  squaws.  These  connections  frequently  take  place 
for  a  season,  and  sometimew  continue  for  years,  if  not  perpetually ; 
but  are  apt  to  be  broken  when  the  free  trapper  starts  oflF,  sud- 
denly, on  some  distant  and  rough  expedition.  ,  ■ 

,  In  the  present  instance,  these  wild  blades  were  anxious  to 
regain  their  belles  ;  nor  were  the  latter  loath  once  more  to  come 
nnder  their  protection.  The  free  trapper  combines,  in  the  eye 
of  an  Indian  girl,  all  that  is  dashing  and  heroic  in  a  warrior  of 
her  own  race,  whose  gait,  and  garb,  and  bravery  he  emulates, 
with  all  that  is  gallant  and  glorious  in  the  white  man.  And  then 
the  indulgence  with  which  he  treats  her,  the  finery  in  which  he 
decks  her  out,  the  state  in  which  she  moves,  the  sway  she  enjoys 
over  both  his  purse  and  person,  instead  of  being  the  drudge  and 
slave  of  an  Indian  husband  ;  obliged  to  carry  his  pack,  and  build 
his  lodge,  and  make  his  fire,  and  bear  his  cross  humors  and  dry 
blows. — No  ;  there  is  no  comparison,  in  the  eyes  of  an  aspiring 
belle  of  the  wilderness,  between  a  free  trapper  and  an  Indian  brave. 


406 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


With  respect  to  one  of  the  parties,  the  matter  was  easily  ar- 
ranged. The  beauty  in  question  was  a  pert  little  Eutaw  wench, 
that  had  been  taken  prisoner,  in  some  war  excursion,  by  a  Sho- 
shonie.  She  was  readily  ransomed  for  a  few  articles  of  trifling 
value  ;  and  forthwith  figured  about  the  camp  in  fine  array,  "  with 
rings  on  her  fingers,  and  bells  on  her  toes,"  and  a  tossed-up 
coquetish  air,  that  made  her  the  envy,  admiration,  and  abhorrence, 
of  all  the  leathern-dressed,  hard-working  squaws  of  her  acquaint- 
ance. 

As  to  the  other  beauty,  it  was  quite  a  different  matter.  She 
had  become  the  wife  of  a  Shoshonie  brave.  It  is  true,  he  had 
another  wife,  of  older  date  than  the  one  in  question ;  who,  there- 
fore, took  command  in  his  household,  and  treated  his  new  spouse 
as  a  slave ;  but  the  latter  was  the  wife  of  his  last  fancy,  his  latest 
caprice  ;  and  was  precious  in  his  eyes.  All  attempt  to  bargain 
with  him,  therefore,  was  useless ;  the  very  proposition  was  re- 
pulsed with  anger  and  disdain.  The  spirit  of  the  trapper  was 
roused,  his  pride  was  piqued  as  well  as  his  passion.  He  endea- 
vored to  prevail  upon  his  quondam  mistress  to  elope  with  him. 
His  horses  were  fleet,  the  winter  nights  were  long  and  dark,  be- 
fore daylight  they  would  be  beyond  the  reach  of  pursuit ;  and 
once  at  the  encampment  in  Green  River  valley,  they  might  set 
the  whole  band  of  Shoshonies  at  defiance. 

The  Indian  girl  listened  and  longed.  Her  heart  yearned  after 
the  ease  and  splendor  of  condition  of  a  trapper's  bride,  and 
throbbed  to  be  freed  from  the  capricious  control  of  the  premier 
squaw ;  but  she  dreaded  the  failure  of  the  plan,  and  the  fury  of 
a  Shoshonie  husband.  They  parted ;  the  Indian  girl  in  tears, 
and  the  madcap  trapper  more  mad  than  ever,  with  his  thwarted 
passion. 


AN  ELOPEMENT  AND   PURSUIT. 


407 


easily  ar- 
w  wench, 
by  a  Sho- 
f  trifling 
y,  "with 
bossed-up 
liorrence, 
acquaint- 

er.     She 
he  had 
10,  there- 
(V  spouse 
lis  latest 
bargain 
was  re- 
)per  was 
}  endea- 
ith  him. 
ark,  be- 
lt ;  and 
ight  set 

ed  after 
le,  and 
premier 
fury  of 
I  tears, 
iwarted 


Their  interviews  had,  probably,  been  detected,  and  the  jea- 
lousy of  the  Shoshonio  bravo  aroused  :  a  clamor  of  angry  voices 
was  heard  in  his  lodge,  with  the  sound  of  blows,  and  of  female 
weeping  and  lamenting.  At  night,  as  the  trapper  lay  tossing  on 
his  pallet,  a  soft  voice  whispered  at  the  door  of  his  lodge.  His 
mistress  stood  trembling  before  him.  She  was  ready  to  follow 
whithersoever  he  should  lead. 

In  an  instant,  he  was  up  and  out.  He  had  two  prime  horses, 
sure,  and  swift  of  foot,  and  of  great  wind.  With  stealthy  quiet, 
they  were  brought  up  and  saddled  ;  and,  in  a  few  moments,  he 
and  his  prize  were  careering  over  the  snow,  with  which  the  whole 
country  was  covered.  In  the  eagerness  of  escape,  they  had  made 
no  provision  far  their  journey;  days  must  elapse  before  they 
could  reach  their  haven  of  safety,  and  mountains  and  prairies 
be  traversed,  wrapped  in  all  the  desolation  of  winter.  For  the 
present,  however,  they  thought  of  nothing  but  flight;  urging 
their  horses  forward  over  the  dreary  wastes,  and  fancying,  in  the 
howling  of  every  blast,  they  heard  the  yell  of  the  pursuer. 

At  early  dawn,  the  Shoshonie  became  aware  of  his  loss. 
Mounting  his  swiftest  horse,  he  set  oif  in  hot  pursuit.  He  soon 
found  the  trail  of  the  fugitives,  and  spurred  on  in  hopes  of  over- 
taking them.  The  winds,  however,  which  swept  the  valley,  had 
drifted  the  light  snow  into  the  prints  made  by  the  horses'  hoofs. 
In  a  little  while,  he  lost  all  trace  of  them,  and  was  completely 
thrown  out  of  the  chase.  He  knew,  however,  the  situation  of  the 
camp  toward  which  they  were  bound,  and  a  direct  course  through 
the  mountains,  by  which  he  might  arrive  there  sooner  than  the 
fugitives.  Through  the  most  rugged  defiles,  therefore,  he  urged 
his  course  by  day  and  night,  scarce  pausing  until  he  reached  the 
camp.     It  was  some  time  before  the  fugitives  made  their  appear- 


408 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


ance.  Six  days,  had  they  been  traversing  the  wintry  wilds. 
They  came,  haggard  with  hunger  and  fatigue,  and  their  horses 
faltering  under  them.  The  first  object  that  met  their  eyes,  on 
entering  the  camp,  was  the  Shoshonie  brave.  He  rushed,  knife 
in  hand,  to  plunge  it  in  the  heart  that  had  proved  false  to  him. 
The  trapper  threw  himself  before  the  cowering  form  of  his  mis- 
tress, and,  exhausted  as  he  was,  prepared  for  a  deadly  struggle. 
The  Shoshonie  paused.  His  habitual  awe  of  the  white  man 
checked  his  arm ;  the  trapper's  friends  crowded  to  the  spot,  and 
arrested  him.  A  parley  ensued.  A  kind  of  aim.  con.  adjudication 
took  place ;  such  as  frequently  occurs  in  civilized  life.  A  couple 
of  horses  were  declared  to  be  a  fair  compensation  for  the  loss  of  a 
woman  who  had  previously  lost  her  heart ;  with  this,  the  Shosho- 
nie brave  was  fain  to  pacify  his  passion.  He  returned  to  Captain 
Bonneville's  camp,  somewhat  crest-fallen,  it  is  true ;  but  parried 
the  officious  condolements  of  his  friends,  by  observing,  that  two 
good  horses  were  very  good  pay  for  one  bad  wife, 


MOVE   TO  GREEN   RIVER. 


409 


CHAPTER  XLVIII. 

Breaking  up  of  winter  quarters. — Move  to  Grocii  River. — 'A  trapper  and  . 
rifle. — An  arrival  in  camp. — A  free  trapper  and  his  squaw  in  distress 
Story  of  a  Blackfoot  belle. 


The  winter  was  now  breaking  up,  the  snows  wei'e  melted  from 
the  hills,  and  from  the  lower  parts  of  the  mountains,  and  the 
time  for  decamping  had  arrived.  Captain  Bonneville  dispatched 
a  party  to  the  caches,  who  brought  away  all  the  efi'ects  concealed 
there,  and  on  the  1st  of  April  (1835),  the  camp  was  broken  up, 
and  every  one  on  the  move.  The  white  men  and  their  allies, 
the  Eutaw*  and  Shoshonies,  parted  with  many  regrets  and  sin- 
cere expressions  of  good-will,  for  their  intercourse  throughout  the 
winter  had  been  of  the  most  friendly  kind.  '      ' 

Captain  Bonneville  and  his  party  passed  by  Ham's  Fork,  and 
reached  the  Colorado,  or  Green  River,  without  accident,  on  the 
banks  of  which  they  remained  during  the  residue  of  the  spring. 
During  this  time,  they  were  conscious  that  a  band  of  hostile 
Indians  were  hovering  about  their  vicinity,  watching  for  an 
opportunity  to  slay  or  steal ;  but  the  vigilant  precautions  of 
Captain  Bonneville  baffled  all  their  manoeuvres.  In  such  dan- 
gerous times,  the  experienced  mountaineer  is  never  without  his 
rifle,  even  in  camp.  On  going  from  lodge  to  lodge  to  visit  hia 
comrades,  he  takes  it  with  him.    On  seating  himself  in  a  lodge,  he 

18 


410 


BONNKVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


lays  it  beside  him,  ready  to  be  snatched  up ;  when  he  goes  ont, 
he  takes  it  up  as  regularly  as  a  citizen  would  his  walking  staff. 
His  rifle  is  his  constant  friend  and  protector. 

On  the  10th  of  June,  the  party  were  a  little  to  the  east  of  the 
Wind  River  Mountains,  where  they  halted  for  a  time  in  excellent 
pasturage,  to  give  their  horses  a  chance  to  recruit  their  strength 
for  a  long  journey ;  for  it  was  Captain  Bonneville's  intention  to 
shape  his  course  to  the  settlements ;  having  already  been  detained 
by  the  complication  of  his  duties,  and  by  various  losses  and 
impediments,  far  beyond  the  time  specified  in  his  leave  of  ab- 
sence. 

While  the  party  was  thus  reposing  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
Wind  River  Mountains,  a  solitary  free  trapper  rode  one  day  into 
the  camp,  and  accosted  Captain  Bonneville.  He  belonged,  he 
said,  to  a  party  of  thirty  liunters,  who  had  just  passed  through 
the  neighborhood,  but  whom  he  had  abandoned  in  consequence 
of  their  ill  treatment  of  a  brother  trapper ;  whom  they  had  cast 
oflf  from  their  party,  and  left  with  his  bag  and  baggage,  and  an 
Indian  wife  into  the  bargain,  in  the  midst  of  a  desolate  prairie. 
The  horseman  gave  a  piteous  account  of  the  situation  of  this 
helpless  pair,  and  solicited  the  loan  of  horses  to  bring  them  and 
their  effects  to  the  camp. 

The  captain  was  not  a  man  to  refuse  assistance  to  any  one  in 
distress,  especially  when  there  was  a  woman  in  the  case ;  horses 
were  immediately  dispatched,  with  an  escort,  to  aid  the  unfortu- 
nate couple.  The  next  day,  they  made  their  appearance  with  all 
their  effects :  the  man,  a  stalwart  mountaineer,  with  a  peculiarly 
game  look ;  the  woman,  a  young  Blackfoot  beauty,  arrayed  in 
the  trappings  and  trinketry  of  a  free  trapper's  bride. 

Finding  the  woman  to  be  c^uick-witted  and  communicative, 


STORY  OF  THE  BLACKFOOT  WOMAN. 


411 


Captain  Bonneville  entered  into  conversation  with  her,  and  ob- 
tained from  her  many  particulars  concerning  the  habits  and  cus- 
toms of  her  tribe  ;  especially  their  wars  and  huntings.  They 
pride  themselves  upon  being  the  "  best  legs  of  the  mountains," 
and  hunt  the  buflFalo  on  foot.  This  is  done  in  spring  time,  when 
the  frosts  have  thawed  and  the  ground  is  soft.  The  heavy  buf- 
falo then  sink  over  their  hoofs  at  every  step,  and  are  easily  over- 
taken by  the  Blackfeet ;  whose  fleet  steps  press  lightly  on  the 
surface.  It  is  said,  however,  that  the  buffalo  on  the  Pacific  side 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains  are  fleeter  and  more  active  than  on  the 
Atlantic  side  ;  those  upon  the  plains  of  the  Columbia  can  scarcely 
be  overtaken  by  a  horse  that  would  outstrip  the  same  animal  in 
the  neighborhood  of  the  Platte,  the  usual  hunting  ground  of  the 
Blackfeet.  In  the  course  of  further  conversation.  Captain  Bon- 
neville drew  from  the  Indian  woman  her  whole  story  ;  which  gave 
a  picture  of  savage  life,  and  of  the  drudgery  and  hardships  to 
which  an  Indian  wife  is  subject. 

"  I  was  the  wife,"  said  she,  "  of  a  Blackfoot  warrior,  and  I 
served  him  faithfully.  Who  was  so  well  served  as  he  ?  Whose 
lodge  was  so  well  provided,  or  kept  so  clean  ?  I  brought  wood 
in  the  morning,  and  placed  water  always  at  hand.  I  watched  for 
his  coming ;  and  he  found  his  meat  cooked  and  ready.  If  he 
rose  to  go  forth,  there  was  nothing  to  delay  him.  I  searched  the 
thought  that  was  in  his  heart,  to  save  him  the  trouble  of  speak- 
ing. When  I  went  abroad  on  errands  for  him,  the  chiefs  and 
warriors  smiled  upon  me,  and  the  young  braves  spoke  soft  things, 
in  secret ;  but  my  feet  were  in  the  straight  path,  and  my  eyes 
could  see  nothing  but  him. 

"  When  he  went  out  to  hunt,  or  to  war,  who  aided  to  equip 
him,  but  I  ?    When  he  returned,  I  met  him  at  the  door ;  I  took 


41Q 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


his  gun  ;  and  he  entered  without  further  thought.  While  he  sat 
and  smoked,  I  unloaded  his  horses ;  tied  tlicni  to  the  stakes ; 
brought  in  their  loads,  and  was  quickly  at  his  feet.  If  his  moc- 
casons  were  wet,  I  took  them  oiF  and  put  on  others  which  were 
dry  and  warm.  I  dressed  all  the  skins  he  had  taken  in  the  chase. 
He  could  never  say  to  me,  why  is  it  not  done  ?  He  hunted  the 
deer,  the  antelope,  and  the  buffalo,  and  he  watched  for  the  enemy. 
Every  thing  else  was  done  by  me.  When  our  people  moved  their 
camp,  he  mounted  his  horse  and  rode  away ;  free  as  though  he 
had  fallen  from  the  skies.  He  had  nothing  to  do  with  the  labor 
of  the  camp  ;  it  was  I  t!iat  packed  tlie  horses,  and  led  them  on 
the  journey.  When  we  halted  in  the  evening,  and  he  sat  with 
the  other  braves  and  smoked,  it  was  I  that  pitched  his  lodge ; 
and  when  he  came  to  eat  and  sleep,  his  supper  and  his  bed  were 
ready. 

"  I  served  him  faithfully ;  and  what  was  my  reward  ?  A 
cloud  was  always  on  his  brow,  and  sharp  lightning  on  his  tongue. 
I  was  his  dog ;  and  not  his  wife. 

"  Who  was  it  tliat  scarred  and  bruised  me  ?  It  was  he.  My 
brother  saw  how  I  was  treated.  His  heart  was  big  for  me.  He 
begged  me  to  leave  my  tyrant  and  fly.  Where  could  I  go  ?  If 
retaken,  who  would  protect  me?  3Iy  brother  was  not  a  chief; 
he  could  not  save  me  from  blows  and  wounds,  perhaps  death.  At 
length  I  was  persuaded.  I  followed  my  brother  from  the  village. 
He  pointed  the  way  to  the  Ncz  Perc's,  and  bade  me  go  and  live 
in  peace  among  them.  We  parted.  On  the  third  day  I  saw  the 
lodges  of  the  Nez  Percos  before  me.  I  paused  for  a  moment, 
and  had  no  heart  to  go  on  ;  but  my  horse  neighed,  and  I  took  it 
as  a  good  sign,  and  suffered  him  to  gallop  forward.  In  a  little 
while  I  was  in  the  midst  of  the  lodges.      As  I  sat  silent  on  my 


STORY  OF  THE  BLACKFOOT  WOMAN. 


413 


horse,  the  peoplo  gathered  round  me,  and  inquired  whence  I  came. 
I  told  my  story.  A  chief  now  wrapped  his  blanket  close  around 
him,  and  bade  me  diamount.  I  obeyed.  lie  took  my  horse  to 
lead  him  away.  My  heart  grew  small  within  me.  I  felt,  on 
parting  with  my  horse,  as  if  my  last  friend  was  gone.  I  had  no 
words,  and  my  eyes  were  dry.  As  he  led  off  my  horse,  a  young 
brave  stepped  forward.  '  Are  you  a  chief  of  the  people  V  cried 
he.  '  Do  we  listen  to  you  in  council,  and  follow  you  in  battle  ? 
Behold  !  a  stranger  flies  to  our  camp  from  the  dogs  of  Blackfeet, 
and  asks  protection.  Let  shame  cover  your  face  !  The  stranger 
is  a  woman,  and  alone.  If  she  were  a  warrior,  or  had  a  warrior 
by  her  side,  your  heart  would  not  be  big  enough  to  take  her 
horse.  But  he  is  yours.  By  the  right  of  war  you  may  claim 
him  ;  but  look !' — his  bow  was  drawn,  and  the  arrow  ready  ! — 
'  you  never  shall  cross  his  back  !'  The  arrow  pierced  the  heart  of 
the  horse,  and  he  fell  dead. 

"  An  old  woman  said  she  would  be  my  mother.  She  led  me 
to  her  lodge  :  my  heart  was  thawed  by  her  kindness,  and  my  eyes 
burst  forth  with  tears  ;  like  the  frozen  fountains  in  spring  time. 
She  never  changed ;  but  as  the  days  passed  away,  was  still  a 
mother  to  me.  The  people  were  loud  in  praise  of  the  young 
brave,  and  the  chief  was  ashamed.     I  lived  in  peace. 

"  A  party  of  trappers  came  to  the  village,  and  one  of  them 
took  me  for  his  wife.  This  is  he.  I  am  very  happy  ;  he  treats 
me  with  kindness,  and  I  have  taught  him  the  language  of  my 
people.  As  we  were  travelling  this  way,  some  of  the  Blackfeet 
warriors  beset  us,  and  carried  off  the  horses  of  the  party.  We 
followed,  and  my  husband  held  a  parley  with  them.  The  guns 
were  laid  down,  and  the  pipe  was  lighted  ;  but  some  of  the  white 
men  attempted  to  seize  the  horses  by  force,  and  then  a  battle  be- 


414 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


gan.  The  snow  was  deep  ;  the  white  men  sank  into  it  at  every 
step ;  but  the  red  men,  with  their  snow-shoes,  passed  over  the 
surface  like  birds,  and  drove  off  many  of  the  horses  in  sight  of 
their  owners.  With  those  that  remained  we  resumed  our  journey. 
At  length  words  took  place  between  the  leader  of  the  party  and 
my  husband.  He  took  away  our  horses,  which  had  escaped  in 
the  battle,  and  turned  us  from  his  camp.  My  husband  had  one 
good  friend  among  the  trappers.  That  is  he  (pointing  to  the 
man  who  had  asked  assistance  for  them).  He  is  a  good  man. 
His  heart  is  big.  When  he  came  in  from  hunting,  and  found 
that  we  had  been  driven  away,  he  gave  up  all  his  wages,  and  fol- 
lowed us,  that  he  might  speak  good  words  for  us  to  the  white 
captain." 


I 

< 


I 


MONTERO  AND  HIS  PARTY. 


415 


at  every 
over  the 
sight  of 
journey, 
irty  and 
aped  in 
lad  one 

to  the 
d  man. 
I  found 
md  fol- 
Q  white 


CHAPTER  XLIX. 

A  rendezvous  at  Wind  River. — Campaign  of  Montero  and  his  brigade  in  the 
Crow  country. — Wars  between  the  Crows  and  Blackfeet. — Death  of  Ara- 
pooish. — Blackfeet  lurkers. — Sagacity  of  the  horse. — Dependence  of  the 
hunter  on  his  horse. — Return  to  the  settlements. 

On  the  22d  of  June,  Captain  Bonneville  raised  his  camp,  and 
moved  to  the  forks  of  Wind  River ;  the  appointed  place  of  ren- 
dezvous. In  a  few  days,  he  was  joined  there  by  the  brigade  of 
Montero,  which  had  been  sent,  in  the  preceding  year,  to  beat  up 
the  Crow  country,  and  afterwards  proceed  to  the  Arkansas. 
Montero  had  followed  the  early  part  of  his  instructions ;  after 
trapping  upon  some  of  the  upper  streams,  he  proceeded  to  Pow- 
der River.  Here  he  foil  in  with  the  Crow  villages  or  bauds,  who 
treated  him  with  unusual  kindness,  and  prevailed  upon  him  to 
take  up  his  winter  quarters  among  them. 

The  Crows,  at  that  time,  were  struggling  almost  for  existence 
with  their  old  enemies,  the  Blackfeet ;  who,  in  the  past  year,  had 
picked  off  the  flower  of  their  warriors  in  various  engagements, 
and  among  the  rest,  Arapooish,  the  friend  of  the  white  men. 
That  sagacious  and  magnanimous  chief  had  beheld,  with  grief,  the 
ravages  which  wir  was  making  in  his  tribe,  and  that  it  was  de- 
clining in  force,  and  must  eventually  be  destroyed,  unless  some 
signal  blow  could  be  struck  to  retrieve  its  fortunes.  In  a  pitched 
battle  of  the  two  tribes,  he  made  a  speech  to  his  warriors,  urging 


416 


..  BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


them  to  set  every  thing  at  hazard  in  one  furious  charge ;  which 
done,  he  led  the  way  into  the  thiekest  of  the  foe.  Ho  was  soon 
separated  from  his  men,  and  fell  covered  with  wounds,  but  his 
self-devotion  was  not  in  vain.  The  Blackfeet  were  defeated  ;  and 
from  that  time  the  Crows  plucked  up  fresh  heart,  and  were  fre- 
quently successful. 

Montero  had  not  been  long  encamped  among  them,  when  ho 
discovered  that  the  Blackfeet  were  hovering  about  the  neighbor- 
hood. One  day  the  hunters  came  galloping  into  the  camp,  and 
proclaimed  that  a  band  of  the  enemy  was  at  hand.  The  Crows 
flew  to  arms,  leaped  on  their  horses,  and  dashed  out  in  squadrons 
in  pursuit.  They  overtook  the  retreating  enemy  in  the  midst  of 
a  plain.  A  desperate  fight  ensued.  The  Crows  had  the  advan- 
tage of  numbers,  and  of  fighting  on  horseback.  The  greater 
part  of  the  Blackfeet  were  slain ;  the  remnant  took  shelter  in  a 
close  thicket  of  willows,  where  the  horse  could  not  enter ;  whence 
they  plied  their  bows  vigorously. 

The  Crows  drew  off  out  of  bow  shot,  and  endeavored,  by 
taunts  and  bravadoes,  to  draw  the  warriors  out  of  their  retreat. 
A  few  of  the  best  mounted  among  them,  rode  apart  from  the  rest. 
One  of  their  number  then  advanced  alone,  with  that  martial  air 
and  equestrian  grace  for  which  the  tribe  is  noted.  When  within 
an  arrow's  flight  of  the  thicket,  he  loosened  his  rein,  urged  his 
horse  to  full  speed,  threw  his  body  on  the  opposite  side,  so  as  to 
hang  by  but  one  leg,  and  present  no  mark  to  the  foe ;  in  this 
way,  he  swept  along  in  front  of  the  thicket,  launching  his  arrows 
from  under  the  neck  of  his  steed.  Then  regaining  his  seat  in 
the  saddle,  he  wheeled  round,  and  returned  whooping  and  scoffing 
to  his  companions,  who  received  him  with  yells  of  applause. 

Another  and  another  horseman  repeated  this  exploit ;  but  the 
Blackfeet  were  not  to  be  taunted  out  of  their  safe  shelter.     The 


THE  TAUNTING  HORSEMAN. 


41? 


victors  feared  to  drive  desperate  men  to  extremities,  so  they  for* 
bore  tp  attempt  the  thicket.  Towards  night  they  gave  over  the 
attack,  and  returned  all-glorious  with  the  scalps  of  the  slain. 
Then  came  on  the  usual  feasts  and  triumphs ;  the  soalp-dance  of 
warriors  round  the  ghastly  trophies,  and  all  the  other  fierce  revelry 
of  barbarous  warfare.  When  the  braves  had  finished  with  the 
scalps,  they  were,  as  usual,  given  up  to  the  women  and  children, 
and  made  the  objects  of  new  parades  and  dances.  They  were 
then  treasured  up  as  invaluable  trophies  and  decorations  by  the 
braves  who  had  won  them.         . 

It  is  worthy  of  note,  that  the  scalp  of  a  white  man,  either 
through  policy  or  fear,  is  treated  with  more  charity  than  that  of 
an  Indian.  The  warrior  who  won  it  is  entitled  to  his  triumph  if 
he  demands  it.  In  such  case,  the  war  party  alone  danoe  round 
the  scalp.  It  is  then  taken  down,  and  the  shagged  frontlet  of  a 
buffalo  substituted  in  its  place,  and  abandoned  to  the  triumphs 
and  insults  of  the  million. 

To  avoid  being  involved  in  these  guerillas,  as  well  as  to 
escape  from  the  extremely  social  intercourse  of  the  Crows,  which 
began  to  be  oppressive,  Montero  moved  to  the  distance  of  several 
miles  from  their  camps,  and  there  formed  a  winter  cantonment  of 
huts.  He  now  maintained  a  vigilant  watcli  at  night.  Their 
horses,  which  were  turned  loose  to  graze  during  the  day,  under 
heedful  eyes,  were  brought  in  at  night,  and  shut  up  in  strong 
pens,  built  of  large  logs  of  cotton-wood. 

The  snows,  during  a  portion  of  the  winter,  were  so  deep  that 

the  poor  animals  could  find  but  little  sustenance.     Here  and 

there  a  tuft  of  grass  would  peer  above  the  snow ;  but  they  were 

in  general  driven  to  browse  the  twigs  and  tender  branches  of  the 

trees.     When  they  were  turned  out  in  the  morning,  the  first 

moments  of  freedom  from  the  confinement  of  the  pen  were  spent 

18* 


418 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


in  frisking  and  gambolling.  This  done,  they  wont  soberly  and 
sadly  to  work,  to  glean  their  scanty  subsistence  for  the  day.  In 
the  meantime,  the  men  stripped  the  bark  of  the  cotton-wood  tree 
for  the  evening  fodder.  As  the  poor  horses  would  return  to\7ard8 
night,  with  sluggish  and  dispirited  air,  the  moment  they  saw  their 
owners  approaching  them  with  blankets  filled  with  cotton-wood 
bark,  their  whole  demeanor  underwent  a  change.  A  universal 
neighing  and  capering  took  place ;  they  would  rush  forward,  smell 
to  the  blankets,  paw  the  earth,  snort,  whinny  and  prance  round 
with  head  and  tail  erect,  until  the  blankets  were  opened,  and  the 
welcome  provender  spread  before  them.  These  evidences  of 
intelligcDce  and  gladness  were  frequently  recounted  by  the  trap- 
pers as  proving  the  sagacity  of  the  animal. 

These  veteran  rovers  of  the  mountains  look  upon  their  horses 
as  in  some  respects  gifted  with  almost  human  intellect.  An  old 
and  experienced  trapper,  when  mounting  guard  about  the  camp 
in  dark  nights  and  times  of  peril,  gives  heedful  attention  to  all 
the  sounds  and  signs  of  the  horses.  No  enemy  enters  nor  ap- 
proaches the  camp  witliout  attracting  their  notice,  and  their  move- 
ments not  only  give  a  vague  alarm,  but  it  is  said,  will  even  indicate 
to  the  knowing  trapper  the  very  quarter  whence  danger  threatens. 

In  the  daytime,  too,  while  a  hunter  is  engaged  on  the  prairie, 
cutting  up  the  deer  or  buffalo  he  has  slain,  he  depends  upon  hia 
faithful  horse  as  a  sentinel.  The  sagacious  animal  sees  and 
smells  all  round  him,  and  by  his  starting  and  whinnying,  gives 
notice  of  the  approach  of  strangers.  There  seems  to  be  a  dwmb 
communion  and  fellowship,  a  sort  of  fraternal  sympathy,  between 
the  hunter  and  his  horse.  They  mutually  rely  upon  each  other 
for  company  and  protection ;  and  nothing  is  more  difficult,  it  is 
said,  than  to  surprise  an  experienced  hunter  on  the  prairie,  while 
his  old  and  favorite  steed  is  at  his  side. 


HORSE  STEALING. 


m 


Montero  had  not  long  removed  his  camp  from  the  vicinity  of 
the  Crows,  and  tixod  himself  in  his  new  quarters,  when  the 
Blaokfeet  marauders  discovered  his  cantonment,  and  hegan  to 
haunt  the  vicinity.  He  kept  up  a  vigilant  watch,  however,  and 
foiled  every  attempt  of  the  enemy,  who,  at  length,  seemed  to 
have  given  up  in  despair,  and  ahaudoncd  the  neighborhood.  The 
trappers  relaxed  their  vigilance,  therefore,  and  one  night,  after  a 
day  of  severe  labor,  no  guards  were  posted,  and  the  whole  camp 
was  soon  asleep.  Towards  midnight,  however,  the  lightest  sleepers 
were  roused  by  the  trampling  of  hoofs ;  and,  giving  the  alarm,  the 
whole  party  were  immediately  on  their  legs,  and  hastened  to  the 
pens.  The  bars  were  down ;  but  no  enemy  was  to  be  seen  or 
heard,  and  the  horses  being  all  found  hard  by,  it  was  supposed 
the  bars  had  been  left  down  through  negligence.  All  were  once 
more  asleep,  when,  in  about  an  hour,  there  was  a  second  alarm, 
and  it  was  discovered  that  several  horses  were  missing.  The 
rest  wore  mounted,  and  so  spirited  a  pursuit  took  place,  that 
eighteen  of  the  number  carried  oflF  were  regained,  and  but  three 
remained  in  possession  of  the  enemy.  Traps,  for  wolves,  had 
been  set  about  the  camp  the  preceding  day.  In  the  morning,  it 
was  discovered  that  a  Blackfoot  was  entrapped  by  one  of  them, 
but  had  succeeded  in  dragging  it  off.  His  trail  was  followed  for 
a  long  distance,  which  he  must  have  limped  alone.  At  length, 
he  appeared  to  have  fallen  in  with  some  of  his  comrades,  who  had 
relieved  him  from  his  painfiil  incumbrance. 

These  were  the  leading  incidents  of  Montero's  campaign  in 
the  Crow  country.  The  united  parties  now  celebrated  the  4th 
of  July,  in  rough  hunters'  style,  with  hearty  conviviality ;  after 
which.  Captain  Bonneville  made  his  final  arrangements.  Leaving 
Montero  with  a  brigade  of  trappers  to  open  another  campaign,  he 
put  himself  at  the  head  of  the  residue  of  his  men,  and  set  off  on 


4S0 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


his  return  to  civilized  life.  We  shall  not  detail  his  journey  along 
the  course  of  the  Nebraska,  and  so,  from  point  to  point  of  the 
wilderness,  until  he  and  his  band  reached  the  frontier  settlements 
on  the  22d  of  August. 

Here,  according  to  his  own  account,  his  cavalcade  might  have 
been  taken  for  a  procession  of  tatterdemalion  savages ;  for  the  men 
were  ragged  almost  to  nakedness,  and  had  contracted  a  wildness 
of  aspect  during  three  years  of  wandering  in  the  wilderness.  A 
few  hours  in  a  populous  town,  however,  produced  a  magical  meta- 
morphosis. Hats  of  the  most  ample  brim  and  longest  nap ;  coats 
with  buttons  that  shone  like  mirrors,  and  pantaloons  of  the  most 
ample  plenitude,  took  place  of  the  well-worn  trapper's  equip- 
ments; and  the  hi ;.  ^y  wearers  might  be  seen  strolling  about  in 
all  directions,  scattering  their  silver  like  sailors  just  from  a 
cruise. 

The  worthy  captain,  however,  seems  by  no  means  to  have 
shared  the  excitement  of  his  men,  on  finding  himself  once  more 
in  the  thronged  resorts  of  civilized  life,  but,  on  the  contrary,  to 
have  looked  back  to  the  wilderness  with  regret.  "  Though  the 
prospect,"  says  he,  "  of  once  more  tasting  the  blessings  of  peace- 
ful society,  and  passing  days  and  nights  under  the  calm  guar- 
dianship of  the  laws,  was  not  without  its  attractions ;  yet  to  those 
of  us  whose  whole  lives  had  been  spent  in  the  stirring  excitement 
and  perpetual  watchfulness  of  adventures  in  the  wilderness,  the 
change  was  far  from  promising  an  increase  of  that  contentment 
and  inward  satisfaction  most  conducive  to  happiness.  He  who, 
like  myself,  has  roved  almost  from  boyhood  among  the  children 
of  the  forest,  and  over  the  unfurrowed  plains  and  rugged  heights 
of  the  western  wastes,  will  not  be  startled  to  learn,  that  notwith- 
standing all  the  fascinations  of  the  world  on  this  civilized  side  of 
the  mountains,  I  would  fain  make  my  bow  to  the  splendors  and 


CONCLUDING   SUGGESTIONS. 


431 


gayeties  of  the  metropolis,  and  plunge  again  amidst  the  hardships 
and  perils  of  the  wilderness." 

We  have  only  to  add,  that  the  affairs  of  the  captain  have  been 
satisfactorily  arranged  with  the  TVar  Department,  and  that  he  is 
actually  in  service  at  Fort  Gibson,  on  our  western  frontier; 
where  we  hope  he  may  meet  with  further  opportunities  of  indulg- 
ing his  peculiar  tastes,  and  of  collecting  graphic  and  character- 
istic details  of  the  great  western  wilds  and  their  motley  inhab- 
itants. 


We  here  close  our  picturings  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  and 
their  wild  inhabitants,  and  of  the  wild  life  that  prevails  there  ; 
which  we  have  been  anxious  to  fix  on  record,  because  we  are 
aware  that  this  singular  state  of  things  is  full  of  mutation,  and 
must  soon  undergo  great  changes,  if  not  entirely  pass  away. 
The  fur  trade,  itself,  which  has  given  life  to  all  this  portraiture, 
is  essentially  evanescent.  Rival  parties  of  trappers  soon  exhaust 
the  streams,  especially  when  competition  renders  them  heedless 
and  wasteful  of  the  beaver.  The  fur-bearing  animals  extinct,  a 
complete  change  will  come  over  the  scene  :  the  gay  free  trapper 
and  his  steed,  decked  out  in  wild  array,  and  tinkling  with  bells 
and  trinketry ;  the  savage  war  chief,  plumed  and  painted,  and 
ever  on  the  prowl ;  the  traders'  cavalcade,  winding  through  de- 
files or  over  naked  plains,  with  the  stealthy  war  party  lurking  on 
its  trail ;  the  buffalo  chase,  the  hunting  camp,  the  mad  carouse 
in  the  midst  of  danger,  the  night  attack,  the  stampado,  the 
scamper,  the  fierce  skirmish  among  rocks  and  cliffs, — all  this 
romance  of  savage  life,  which  yet  exists  among  the  mountains, 
will  then  exist  but  in  frontier  story,  and  seem  like  the  fictions  of 
chivalry  or  fairy  tale. 


422 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


Some  new  system  of  things,  or  rather  some  new  modification, 
will  succeed  among  the  roving  people  of  this  vast  wilderness ; 
but  just  as  opposite,  perhaps,  to  the  habitudes  of  civilization. 
The  great  Chippewyan  chain  of  mountains,  pnd  the  sandy  and 
volcanic  plains  which  extend  on  either  side,  are  represented  as 
incapable  of  cultivation.  The  pasturage  which  prevails  there 
during  a  certain  portion  of  the  year,  soon  withers  under  the 
aridity  of  the  atmosphere,  and  leaves  nothing  but  dreary  waste'. 
An  immense  belt  of  rocky  mountains  and  volcanic  plains,  severa". 
hundred  miles  in  width,  must  ever  remain  an  irreclaimable  wil- 
derness, intervening  between  the  abodes  of  civilization,  and  aflford- 
ing  a  last  refuge  to  the  T'^dian,  Here  roving  tribes  of  hunters, 
living  in  tents  or  lodge.;  ~  u  following  the  migrations  of  the 
game,  may  lead  a  life  ol  . .  ^  i;^e  independence,  where  there  is 
nothing  to  tempt  the  cupidity  of  the  white  man.  The  amalga- 
mation of  various  tribes,  and  of  white  men  of  every  nation,  will 
in  time  produce  hybrid  races  like  the  mountain  Tartars  of  the 
Caucasus.  Possessed  as  they  are  of  immense  droves  of  horses, 
should  they  continue  their  present  predatory  and  warlike  habits, 
they  may,  in  time,  become  a  scourge  to  the  civilized  frontiers  on 
either  side  of  the  mountains ;  as  they  are  at  present  a  terror  to 
the  traveller  and  trader. 

The  facts  disclosed  in  the  present  work,  clearly  manifest  the 
policy  of  establishing  military  posts  and  a  mounted  force  to  pro- 
tect our  traders  in  their  journeys  across  the  great  western  wilds, 
and  of  pushing  the  outposts  into  the  very  heart  of  the  singular 
wilderness  we  have  laid  open,  so  as  to  maintain  some  degree  of 
sway  over  the  country,  and  to  put  an  end  to  the  kind  of  "  black 
mail,"  levied  on  all  occasions  by  the  savage  "  chivalry  of  the 
mountains." 


I' 


APPENDIX. 


NATHANIEL  J.  WYETH,  AND  THE  TRADE  OF  THE  FAR  WEST. 

We  liave  brought  Captain  Bonneville  to  the  end  of  his  western 
campaigning  ;  yet  we  cannot  close  this  work  without  subjoining 
some  particulars  concerning  the  fortunes  of  his  contemporary, 
Mr.  Wyeth ;  anecdotes  of  whose  enterprise  have,  occasionally, 
been  interwoven  in  the  party-colored  web  of  our  narrative. 
Wyeth  elFected  his  intention  of  establishing  a  trading  post  on  the 
Portneuf,  which  he  named  Fort  Hall.  Here,  for  the  first  time, 
the  American  flag  was  unfurled  to  the  breeze  that  sweeps  the 
great  naked  wastes  of  the  central  wilderness.  Leaving  twelve 
men  here,  with  a  stock  of  goods,  to  trade  with  the  neighboring 
tribes,  he  prosecuted  his  journey  to  the  Columbia ;  where  he 
established  another  post,  called  Fort  Williams,  on  Wappatoo 
Island,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Wallamut.  This  was  to  be  the  head 
factory  of  his  company  ;  whence  they  were  to  carry  on  their  fish- 
ing and  trapping  operations,  and  their  trade  with  the  interior  ; 
and  where  they  were  to  receive  and  dispatch  their  annual  ship. 

The  plan  of  Mr.  Wyeth  appears  to  have  been  well  concerted. 
He  had  observed  that  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company,  the 
bands  of  free  trappers,  as  well  as  the  Indians  west  of  the  moun- 
tains, depended  for  their  supplies  upon  goods  brought  from  St. 
Louis  ;  which,  in  consequence  of  the  expenses  and  risks  of  a  long 
land  carriage,  were  furnished  them  at  an  immense  advance  on 
first  cost.  He  had  an  idea  that  they  might  be  much  more  cheaply 
supplied  from  the  Pacific  side.  Horses  would  cost  much  'ess  on 
the  borders  of  the  Columbia  than  at  St.  Louis :  the  transporta- 
tion by  land  was  much  shorter ;  and  through  a  country  much 
more  safe  from  the  hostility  of  savage  tribes ;  which,  on  the  route 
from  and  to  St.  Louis,  annually  cost  the  lives  of  many  men.     On 


434 


APPENDIX. 


this  idea,  he  grounded  his  plan.  He  combined  the  salmon  fishery 
with  the  fur  trade.  A  fortified  trading  post  was  to  be  estab- 
lished on  the  Columbia,  to  carry  on  a  trade  with  the  natives  for 
salmon  and  peltries,  and  to  fish  and  trap  on  their  own  account. 
Once  a  year,  a  ship  was  to  come  from  the  United  States,  to  bring 
out  goods  for  the  interior  trade,  and  to  take  home  the  salmon  and 
furs  which  had  been  collected.  Part  of  the  goods,  thus  brought 
out,  were  to  be  dispatched  to  the  mountains,  to  supply  the  trap- 
ping companies  and  the  Indian  tribes,  in  exchange  for  their  furs  ; 
which  were  to  be  brought  down  to  the  Columbia,  to  be  sent  home 
in  the  next  annual  ship :  and  thus  an  annual  round  was  to  be 
kept  lip.  The  profits  on  the  salmon,  it  was  expected,  would  cover 
all  the  expenses  of  the  ship ;  so  that  the  goods  brought  out,  and 
the  furs  carried  home,  would  cost  nothing  as  to  freight. 

His  enterprise  was  prosecuted  with  a  spirit,  intelligence,  and 
perseverance,  that  merited  success.  All  the  details  that  we  have 
met  with,  prove  him  to  be  no  ordinary  man.  He  appears  to  have 
the  mind  to  conceive,  and  the  energy  to  execute  extensive  and 
striking  plans.  He  had  once  more  reared  the  American  flag  in 
the  lost  domains  of  Astoria ;  and  had  he  been  enabled  to  main- 
tain the  footing  he  had  so  gallantly  eflFected,  he  might  have  re- 
gained for  his  country  the  opulent  trade  of  the  Columbia,  of 
which  our  statesmen  have  negligently  suffered  us  to  be  dispos- 
sessed. 

It  is  needless  to  go  into  a  detail  of  the  variety  of  accidents 
and  cross-purposes,  which  caused  the  failure  of  his  scheme 
They  were  such  as  all  undertakings  of  the  kind,  involving  com- 
bined operations  by  sea  and  land,  are  liable  to.  What  he  most 
wanted,  was  sufiicient  capital  to  enable  him  to  endure  incipient 
obstacles  and  losses ;  and  to  hold  on  until  success  had  time  to 
spring  up  from  the  midst  of  disastrous  experiments. 

It  is  with  extreme  regret  we  learn  that  he  has  recently  been 
compelled  to  dispose  of  his  establishment  at  Wappatoo  Island,  to 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company;  ^,ao,  it  is  but  justice  to  say,  V.ave, 
according  to  his  own  account,  treated  him  throughout  the  whole 


APPENDIX. 


435 


•n  fishery 
)e  estab- 
itives  for 
account, 
to  bring 
mon  and 
brought 
ihe  trap- 
eir  furs ; 
nt  home 
as  to  be 
Id  cover 
3ut,  and 

ice,  and 
jve  have 
to  have 
iive  and 
I  flag  in 
0  main- 
lave  re- 
ibia,  of 
dispos- 

cidents 
icheme 
g  com- 
e  most 
cipient 
\iime  to 

y  been 
and,  to 
,  ^ave, 
whole 


of  hia  enterprise,  with  great  fairness,  friendship,  and  liberality. 
That  company,  therefore,  still  maintains  an  unrivalled  sway  over 
the  whole  country  washed  by  the  Columbia  and  its  tributaries. 
It  has,  in  fact,  as  far  as  its  chartered  powers  permit,  followed  out 
the  splendid  scheme  contemplated  by  Mr.  Astor,  when  he  founded 
his  establishment  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia.  From  their 
emporium  of  Vancouver,  companies  are  sent  forth  in  every  direc- 
tion, to  supply  the  interior  posts,  to  trade  with  the  natives,  and 
to  trap  upon  the  various  streams.  These  thread  the  rivers,  tra- 
verse the  plains,  penetrate  to  the  heart  of  the  mountains,  extend 
their  enterprises  northward,  to  the  Russian  possessions,  and 
southward,  to  the  confines  of  California.  Their  yearly  supplies 
are  received  by  sea,  at  Vancouver ;  and  thence  their  furs  and  pel- 
tries are  shipped  to  London.  They  likewise  maintain  a  considera- 
ble commerce,  in  wheat  and  lumber,  with  the  Pacific  islands,  and 
to  the  north,  with  the  Russian  settlements. 

Though  the  company,  by  treaty,  have  a  right  to  a  participation 
only,  in  the  trade  of  these  regions,  and  are,  in  fact,  but  tenants 
on  suff'erance ;  yet  have  they  quietly  availed  themselves  of  the 
original  oversight,  and  subsequent  supineness  of  the  American 
government,  to  establish  a  monopoly  of  the  trade  of  the  river 
and  its  dependencies ;  and  are  adroitly  proceeding  to  fortify 
themselves  in  their  usurpation,  by  securing  all  the  strong  points 
of  the  country. 

Fort  George,  originally  Astoria,  which  was  abandoned  on  the 
removal  of  the  main  factory  to  Vancouver,  was  renewed  in  1830 ; 
and  is  now  kept  up  as  a  fortified  post  and  trading  house.  All 
the  places  accessible  to  shipping  have  been  taken  possession  of, 
and  posts  recently  established  at  them  by  the  company. 

The  great  capital  of ^th is  association;  their  long  established 
system ;  their  hereditary  influence  over  the  Indian  tribes  ;  their 
internal  organization,  which  makes  every  thing  go  on  with  the 
regularity  of  a  machine  ;  and  the  low  wages  of  their  people,  who 
are  mostly  Canadians,  give  them  great  advantages  over  the  Ame- 
rican traders :  nor  is  it  likely  the  latter  will  ever  be  able  to  main- 


436 


APPENDIX. 


tain  any  footing  in  the  land,  until  the  question  of  territorial 
right  is  adjusted  between  the  two  countries.  The  sooner  that 
takes  place,  the  better.  It  is  a  question  too  serious  to  national 
pride,  if  not  to  national  interest,  to  be  slurred  over ;  and  every 
year  is  adding  to  the  difficulties  which  environ  it. 

The  fur  trade,  which  is  now  the  main  objec .  of  enterprise 
west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  forms  but  a  part  of  the  real  re- 
sources of  the  country.  Beside  the  salmon  fishery  of  the  Colum- 
bia, which  is  capable  of  being  rendered  a  considerable  source  of 
profit ;  the  great  valleys  of  the  lower  country,  below  the  elevated 
volcanic  plateau,  are  calculated  to  give  sustenance  to  countless 
flocks  and  herds,  and  to  sustain  a  great  population  of  graziers 
and  agriculturists. 

Such,  for  instance,  is  the  beautiful  valley  of  the  "Wallamut ; 
from  which  the  establishment  at  Vancouver  draws  most  of  its  sup- 
plies. Here,  the  company  holds  mills  and  farms  ;  and  has  pro- 
vided for  some  of  its  superannuated  officers  and  servants.  This 
valley,  above  the  falls,  is  about  fifty  miles  wide,  and  extends  a 
great  distance  to  the  south.  The  climate  is  mild,  being  sheltered 
by  lateral  ranges  of  mountains ;  while  the  soil,  for  richness,  has 
been  equalled  to  the  best  of  the  Missouri  lands.  The  valley  of 
the  river  Des  Chutes,  is  also  admirably  calculated  for  a  great 
grazing  country.  All  the  best  horses  used  by  the  company  for 
the  mountains,  are  raised  there.  The  valley  is  of  such  happy 
temperature,  that  grass  grows  there  throughout  the  year,  and 
cattle  may  be  left  out  to  pasture  during  the  winter.  These  val- 
leys must  form  the  grand  points  of  commencement  of  the  future 
settlement  of  the  country ;  but  there  must  be  many  such,  en- 
folded in  the  embraces  of  these  lower  ranges  of  mountains  ; 
which,  though  at  present  they  lie  waste  and  uninhabited,  and  to 
the  eye  of  the  trader  and  trapper,  present  but  barren  wastes, 
would,  in  the  hands  of  skilful  agriculturists 'and  husbandmen, 
soon  assume  a  diflFerent  aspect,  and  teem  with  waving  crops,  or  be 
covered  with  flocks  and  herds. 

The  resources  of  the  country,  too,  while  in  the  hands  of  a 


APPENDIX. 


4,\)7 


company  restricted  in  its  trade,  can  be  but  partially  called  forth ; 
but  in  the  hands  of  Americans,  enjoying  a  direct  trade  with  the 
East  Indies,  would  be  brought  into  quickening  activity ;  and 
might  soon  realize  the  dream  of  Mr.  Astor,  in  giving  rise  to  a 
flourishing  commercial  empire.  ♦ 


WRECK   OF  A   JAPANESE    JUNK    ON    THE    NORTH- 

WEST  COAST. 

The  following  extract  of  a  letter  which  we  received,  lately, 
from  Mr.  Wyeth,  may  be  interesting,  as  throwing  some  light 
upon  the  question  as  to  the  manner  in  which  America  has  been 
peopled. 

"Are  you  aware  of  the  fact,  that  in  the  winter  of  1833,  a 
Japanese  junk  was  wrecked  on  the  northwest  coast,  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  Queen  Charlotte's  Island ;  and  that  all  but  two  of  the 
crew,  then  much  reduced  by  starvation  and  disease,  during  a  long 
drift  across  the  Pacific,  were  killed  by  the  natives  ?  The  two  fell 
into  the  hands  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  were  sent  to 
England.     I  saw  them,  on  my  arrival  at  Vancouver,  in  1834." 


INSTRUCTIONS  TO  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE  FROM  THE 
MAJOR-GENERAL  COMMANDING  THE  ARMY  OF  THE 
UNITED  STATES. 

TTead  Quarters  of  the  Army,  ) 
Washington,  August  3,  183L  ) 

Sir, — The  leave  of  absence  which  you  have  asked,  for  the 
purpose^  of  enabling  you  to  carry  into  execution  your  design  of 
exploring  the  country  to  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  beyond,  with 
a  view  of  ascertaining  the  nature  and  character  of  the  several 
tribes  of  Indians  inhabiting  those  regions ;  the  trade  which  might 
be  profitably  carried  on  with  them ;  the  quality  of  the  soil,  the 
productions,  the  minerals,  the  natural  history,  the  climate,  the 


428 


»v.  . 


APPENDIX. 


# 


geography  and  topography,  as  well  as  geology,  of  the  various  parts 
of  the  country  within  the  limits  of  the  territories  belonging  to 
the  United  States,  between  our  frontier  and  the  Pacific, — has 
been  duly  considered  and  submitted  to  the  War  Department 
for  approval,  and  has  been  sanctioned.  You  are,  therefore, 
authorized  to  be  absent  from  the  army  until  October,  1833.  It 
is  understood  that  the  government  is  to  be  at  no  expense  in 
reference  to  your  proposed  expedition,  it  having  originated  with 
yourself;  and  all  that  you  required  was  the  permission  from  the 
proper  authority  to  undertake  the  enterprise.  You  will,  naturally, 
in  preparing  yourself  for  the  expedition,  provide  suitable  instru- 
ments, and  especially  the  best  maps  of  the  interior  to  be  found. 

It  is  desirable,  besides  what  is  enumerated  as  the  object  of 
your  enterprise,  that  you  note  particularly  the  number  of  warriors 
that  may  be  in  each  tribe  or  nation  that  you  may  meet  with ; 
their  alliances  with  other  tribes,  and  their  relative  position  as  to 
a  state  of  peace  or  war,  and  whether  their  friendly  or  warlike 
dispositions  towards  each  other  are  recent  or  of  long  standing. 
You  will  gratify  us  by  describing  their  manner  of  making  war ; 
of  the  mode  of  subsisting  themselves  during  a  state  of  war,  and 
a  state  of  peace ;  their  arms,  and  the  effect  of  them ;  whether 
they  act  on  foot  or  on  horseback ;  detailing  the  discipline  and 
manoeuvres  of  the  war  parties ;  the  power  of  their  horses,  size, 
and  general  description ;  in  short,  every  information  which  you 
may  conceive  would  be  useful  to  thejgovernment. 

You  will  avail  yourself  of  every  opportunity  of  informing  us 
of  your  position  and  progress,  and  at  the  expiration  of  your 
leave  of  absence,  will  join  your  proper  station. 

I  have  the  honor  to  be.  Sir, 
Your  obt.  servant, 
*  ALEXANDER  MACOMB, 

Major-Qeneral,  commanding  the  Army. 

Capt.  B.  L.  E.  Bonneville, 

7th  Regt.  of  Infantry,  New  York. 


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